Connecting a chandelier to a double switch. How to properly connect a chandelier to a double switch? Connecting a chandelier with 2 keys

Hello, dear readers and guests of the Electrician's Notes website.

The other day I was replacing an old chandelier with a new five-armed one.

The house was a panel house, so I want to point this out Special attention, because there is a small nuance that I encountered in Once again. But first things first.

First you need to take care of your personal electrical safety. Disable as needed circuit breaker, on the supply wires near a chandelier or a single-pole indicator, and only after that we get to work.

You will say that to do this job it is enough to turn off both switch keys. I answer, what if someone initially connected it incorrectly and the switch switches not phases, but zeros? Moreover, according to the customer, the two-key switch was faulty. But I will talk about this at the end of the article.

We bite off the wires and remove the old chandelier. The photo shows that there is one on the supply wires, but on the wires going directly to the chandelier: two yellow wires are phases from different switch keys, and the blue wire is zero. Now we will not remember the markings, because... it will still need to be rechecked.

To install the mounting plate for a new chandelier, you need to remove the decorative plug and hook. We slightly hollow it out, it falls out along with the hook holder (by the way, it is also plastic).

And now we have this view on the ceiling (at the beginning of the article I talked about the nuance). This is not the first panel house where I have encountered similar “technological” holes. When installing a new chandelier, you must definitely hide this horror.

But there is a problem here. It lies in the fact that if you drill holes for the mounting plate from the edge of the slab, then it (the edge) may break off (crumple) when drilling with a hammer drill. So I had to shift the installation of the chandelier a little in order to drill the holes not at the edge of the slab, but a little further. In this case, you need to take into account that the base of the chandelier completely covers this hole. If you can’t completely close it, you can carefully plaster it.

Dealing with wires coming out of the ceiling

Electrical wiring in panel houses laid either in special channels (voids) or in joints between slabs. Most often, the ceiling slab (floor slab) has channels running parallel to each other at a certain distance. In my case, the wires lie directly on the surface ceiling slab. It all depends on the series of the panel house.

The electrical wiring is aluminum and made with three-core wire APPV (3x2.5).

And now we need to deal with the wires coming out of the ceiling, namely, find two phase (L1, L2) and one neutral (N). There are several ways to do this. I'll show you the simplest one.

Make sure that the bare ends of the wires do not touch each other; to do this, carefully move them apart.

phase from the first switch key (L1)
phase from the second switch key (L2)
zero (N)

We turn it on in apartment or floor panel tripped circuit breaker. Then we turn on the first key of the switch and using a single-pole indicator or voltage indicator “Contact-55EM” we find the phase (L1) that is connected to the first key of the switch. You can find out how to use these devices using the following links:

Then turn off the first key and turn on the second. Similarly, we are looking for the phase (L2), which is connected to the second key.

Don’t forget to first make sure that your pointer is working properly by checking it on live parts that are known to be live.

Thus, we found two phases - L1 and L2. We have a third wire left - this is zero N.

How to connect a chandelier via a two-key switch

Here is a wiring diagram for a chandelier consisting of five lamps.

phase L1 (orange)
phase L2 (yellow)
zero N ( of blue color)

Dealing with chandelier wires

First of all, we need to understand the diagram of the chandelier itself, i.e. those wires that come out of its base.

In my example, each chandelier bulb has its own wires coming out. A total of 10 wires are removed from the base of the chandelier: 5 phase ( Brown) and 5 zeros (blue). This can be clearly seen in the photo below.

The advantage of such a chandelier is that you can create a combination of light bulbs as you wish, for example, you can connect just one light bulb to the first group, and the rest of the lamps to the second group.

We agreed with the customer that the first group of lamps would include two light bulbs, and the second group would include the remaining three.

I will make all wire connections using two- and three-wire ones. By the way, the new 221 series was recently released - it is more convenient and compact.

So, we take two brown wires, preferably not located next to the lamps, and connect them to each other. This will be our first twist and we will call it L1. Then we take the three remaining brown wires and also twist them together. This will be the second twist, which we will assign the designation L2. This is what should happen.

We insert the first (L1) and second (L2) twists into the corresponding Vago terminals.

We twist the five blue wires together in any order (2+3) and connect them to the Vago three-wire terminal. This will be our zero terminal (N).

The following happened.

All that remains is to connect the power wires to the Vago terminals in accordance with the accepted markings.

You will now say that the Wago 222 series are designed for connecting only copper wires. I know, but I deliberately use them for connections and aluminum wires due to the fact that the terminal's current-carrying bus is tinned and not copper. This means that there is no direct aluminum-copper contact.

Well, I like the terminals in this series.

The only thing is that they do not contain a quartz-based paste with technical petroleum jelly, which would protect the compound from oxidation, destroying the formed oxide film on aluminum. But this is not a problem, you can purchase Wago “Alu-Plus” paste separately and spray it directly into the terminal block.

Carefully lay the wires at the base of the chandelier (there is not much space there) and install it on the bracket. Tighten the decorative nuts. The chandelier is installed.

We insert CFL lamps with a power of 25 (W) warm into the chandelier white with E14 base.

At the beginning of the article, I said that the customer had a faulty two-key switch. In his words, “when he lightly touched the switch, he turned the lamps on and off several times in a row.”

I removed the old switch and the reason for its malfunction was obvious.

The latch securing it to the switch body has broken off on the contact switch. In the photo below there is a broken latch on the left, and a whole one on the right.

The switch came off in the place with the cover, but should be removed separately.

This malfunction was the result of the “chaotic” operation of the two-key switch. The switch was not secured (fixed) to the housing with right side, the pressure on the contacts weakened, and sometimes there was no pressure at all. When the right key was turned on, the moving part of the contact was not pressed against the stationary part - the contact disappeared and burned out.

Instead of the old switch, I installed a new one with a ceramic base from Powerman (China).

Something Lately I often come across this brand, for example, recently, and it was also “Powerman”.

Now you can check the operation of the new chandelier. Works fine!

P.S. I hope that after reading this article you will not have any questions about how to connect a chandelier with a two-key switch. Well, if they arise, feel free to ask through the comment form or feedback. Thank you for your attention.

Chandeliers are an integral part of the interior. It's not just about beauty and aesthetics, but also great opportunity well illuminate the room. However, not everyone can connect a chandelier correctly. If lamps with one lamp or two wires do not cause difficulties, then the presence of three can baffle even experienced electricians.

Purpose of wires on the ceiling

Exists great amount shapes and variations of lamps. Starting from the usual ones, with ordinary incandescent lamps, to multi-color diode ones. The breadth and originality of human thoughts knows no bounds. But what will even the most luxurious chandelier cost if it is connected incorrectly?

In an apartment or private house there may be 2,3, or 4 wires. There are standards by which their purpose is determined:

Black, brown or gray is usually a phase. May be marked with the letter "L".
Blue, cyan or shades thereof indicate that this is a neutral wire. It has the letter designation “N”.
Green, yellow or yellow-green is “ground” or, as they also say, a protective zero. Denoted as "PE".

Colors may not meet the accepted standard. For example, in some countries the designation has a different meaning if the wiring was done by an unqualified person, or if the cable of the required color was not available during installation.

To determine the purpose of the wires without reference to color, you will need the following tools:

multimeter;
indicator screwdriver;
stripper or knife for removing insulation;
pliers;
insulating tape;
terminal block;
insulating tubes or cambrics.

If three wires come out of the ceiling, and the switch has two buttons, then two wires will be “phase” and one “zero”" Using a multimeter it will not be difficult to determine their purpose. You can do this with an indicator screwdriver by touching the exposed wires with it. In this case, the switches must be in the “on” position.

To determine where is “phase” and where is “zero” using a multimeter tester, you need to set the device to the “volts” position and select any two wires. If numbers appear on the display (≈220 V), then one of them is “zero” and one is “phase”. Next, without removing one of the probes from the wire, we move the second probe to the other. If the value appears again, the “phases” were moved, and the “zero” was constantly pressed.

If the readings appear on the device, both wires are “phases”. You can verify this by moving one of the probes to the adjacent cable - a reading of ≈220 V should appear.

In a situation where only two wires come out of the ceiling, and the switch has one key, it means one of them is “zero”, the other is “phase”" It is easy to determine the “phase” using an indicator screwdriver.

Wires on the chandelier

Depending on the type of chandelier, the number of wires in it will be different. This suggests that it can be connected in different ways. The most common question is how to connect a chandelier with 3 wires; it requires a more detailed consideration.

If the lamp has only two wires, the “phase” must be connected to one wire, the “zero” to the other. The switch in this case must be single-key.

If the lighting device has three arms or more, there will be several outputs. Then the question arises of how to connect a chandelier with 3 wires or more.

Unlike wires in the ceiling, there is always there is a color and letter designation. If a grounding wire (yellow, green or yellow-green) comes out of the ceiling, then a similar one on the lamp is connected to it. Next, the connection of a chandelier with three wires is carried out according to the following scheme: we connect the “ground” to the “ground” on the ceiling, the “phase” to the “phase” wire, the “zero” to the “zero”.

Connecting a chandelier with four wires or more

There are two wires coming out of each chandelier arm, usually a single blue and a brown (black). Although it is possible that the colors may be different. For the sake of economy and convenience, multi-lane lighting devices are connected to two-key switches.

If controlled by a double switch, all luminaire wires are required divide into three groups. One group is “zero”, and two are “phases”. All “phases” must be assembled together, after which the remaining wires are divided into two groups. Please note that in any of the three groups cables of a different color were not included. You need to understand that one part of the light bulbs will light from one group, and another part from the other.

The connection diagram for a chandelier with a double switch is quite simple. The resulting three groups need connect to the three wires in the ceiling. The main thing here is to remember where the “phases” are and where the “zero” is. The “phases” are respectively connected to the “phases” found on the ceiling, the remaining “zero” group is connected to the “zero” on the ceiling.

What should we do if we have a multi-arm chandelier, and only two wires come out of the ceiling? It is necessary not to divide the “phases” into groups, but combine them into one. In this case, the remote control will be single-key, and all the lights will light up together when turned on, without the possibility of dividing into two groups. In this case, it will not be possible to connect the chandelier to a double switch, or only one of the two keys will work.

Thus, the question of how to connect a chandelier to a two-key switch can be resolved independently without the help of specialists. Main, always remember safety precautions. All work must be carried out with switches and circuit breakers turned off. You can work under voltage only when it is necessary to determine “phase” and “zero”. At the same time, touching exposed wires is strictly prohibited.

A chandelier with several lamps is not only an element of the interior, but also a device that allows you to create various conditions lighting, and also significantly save on electricity. This is achieved by the ability to turn on the lamps in a chandelier in groups, using only a single switch with several keys.

However, the complexity of connection that seems at first glance makes many abandon the idea. self-connection chandeliers and pay for the work of electricians. Meanwhile, after carefully studying all the rules, even a novice home electrician will be able to do this activity.

In order to safely complete the entire scope of work on connecting the chandelier, without being distracted by searching the right tool or materials, you should make sure in advance that you have the following:

, necessary to find the “phase” in the electrical wiring;
a set of simple Phillips and flat head screwdrivers required to complete installation work and disassembly/assembly of the chandelier itself (if the latter is necessary);
, which can be used to check the correctness of the connections;
pliers for stripping and installing wires;
terminal block, which simplifies the layout of wires when connecting them.

In addition, you will need a knife, a marker, electrical tape, a passport for the chandelier and a reliable stepladder or other support with which you can conveniently work under the ceiling.

Let's figure out what each wire coming out of the chandelier is needed for.

To figure out which wire comes out of the chandelier, what it is for, and how it is connected to the network, the easiest way is to use the instructions included with the lighting fixture.

Since three or more wires come out of the chandelier block in the case under consideration, they can be divided according to their functional purpose.

Phase - 2 wires. All the central contacts of each lamp socket are connected to these wires. Moreover, the connection is most often implemented in two groups: one wire usually combines the phase connection to only two lamps, the second - to all the others. Such a circuit is necessary so that when using a multi-key switch, it is possible to independently turn on each group of lamps.
Neutral wire. Most often, this is a single wire to which the neutral wires from all lamps in the lighting fixture are connected inside the chandelier body.

Sometimes another wire comes out of a chandelier with two groups of lamps - grounding. It is quite easy to identify the ground wire: it is usually painted yellow-green. Meanwhile, the presence of a grounding terminal is not at all a mandatory rule. In chandeliers of relatively old years of production, grounding was not provided for in chandeliers at all, since in most houses it was absent.

Visually, each group of wires can be recognized by color marking. If all the wires are the same color, then you can recognize them using a multimeter.

Wires for connecting a chandelier: types, characteristics and installation methods

According to current electrical installation codes and regulations, residential buildings and apartments, exclusively copper wires should be used.

The ban on the use of aluminum wires, which were so popular in previous decades, was introduced for the reason that aluminum can change its properties over time. physical properties, making electrical wiring unsafe in terms of fire. Therefore, when choosing suitable wires, you can only pay attention to copper options.

Since the maximum voltage supplied to the chandelier cannot exceed 220V, even if there are several powerful lamps in it, a wire with a cross-section of 0.5 sq. mm will be sufficient. However, for electrical wiring in residential premises, they are mostly used with a cross-section of 2.5 sq. mm, so it is worth purchasing wires and cables with cores of exactly this cross-section.

In addition to the material of the electrically conductive cores, when choosing a wire, you should also take into account the method of connecting them to the chandelier. There are three such methods:

hidden wiring, i.e. the cable is laid directly inside the walls and ceiling;
when the wire is fixed outside the wall on special insulating supports;
wiring using electrical wiring.

Therefore, when choosing a wire, you will need to take into account its mechanical properties. So, multi-core cables much more flexible, which makes it easier to work with them when laying open wiring. In turn, a solid core is beneficial for wiring inside walls and ceilings, as well as for laying in a mounting box. Due to their rigidity, such wires will be laid more evenly, making installation more economical and safe.

To supply electricity to lighting devices, it is allowed to use following types cables:

VVG, flat cable with two solid cores, with insulation and outer protective sheath made of polyvinyl chloride. However, due to the connection to a chandelier with three or more wires, it is considered inappropriate to use this cable, since it will require at least twice as much;
NUM (NYM)– copper cable with round, is similar in design and materials used to VVG, but has a larger number of insulated conductors.
PVS, a round cable with stranded conductors enclosed in a vinyl sheath;
SHVVP– a cable with vinyl-insulated wires placed inside a PVC sheath.

What to do if the wires are not long enough

Since the installation of a chandelier can be carried out not only in new houses and apartments, a situation may arise when it is necessary to extend the existing wiring or extend the wires from the chandelier itself. Best option connections - using a terminal block. This device It is a plastic block with conductive plates placed on it. On each side of the plate there are screw terminals to which the wires are connected.

However, the terminal block must be accessible for servicing. Over time, screw connections can become loose, which can lead to loss of contact or unsafe heating. Therefore, if there is nowhere to place such a block, it is recommended to replace all the wiring so that a single wire is laid from the switch to the chandelier. It is unacceptable to use twists, because as they oxidize, they will inevitably begin to heat up.

Various connection scheme options

The connection diagram will depend on how many wires come out of the chandelier and how many wires are connected to it along the ceiling. Therefore, several options are possible.

phase of the first group of lamps;
second group phase;
common neutral wire.

These wires, taking into account the marking and purpose, are connected to three wires running along the ceiling.

Three or more wires on the chandelier and four wires on the ceiling.

This connection diagram, in its essence, completely corresponds to the one in which three wires pass along the ceiling, and three or more are taken out of the chandelier. The fourth wire is the ground wire accepted in modern electrical installation practice. In the chandelier connection manual, this wire will be designated as “PE”. Therefore, you simply need to connect the yellow-green wires to each other, and perform the rest of the installation according to the scheme described above. If an old-style chandelier is installed, it may not have grounding. Therefore, the yellow-green wire on the ceiling is cut and carefully insulated. However, the purpose of the fourth wire on the ceiling may be different if it is used as another phase. This circuit is used to connect to a three-key switch, which allows you to control three groups of lamps on a chandelier at once.

The final stage - we put the wires into the switch

The switch is always installed on the phase wire, opening it or distributing it for each phase in the chandelier (when using multi-key switches). Grounding wires, if any are present in the apartment or house electrical wiring, bypass the switch and directly to the chandelier.

As a rule, one-, two- and three-key switches are available for sale. Their connection diagram will be slightly different, so it is necessary to consider three options.

Connecting a single-key switch.

This circuit is the simplest and only allows you to light and turn off all the lamps in the chandelier at the same time. It is used when there are two supply wires on the ceiling, regardless of the number of wires coming out of the chandelier.

The direct connection of the switch will involve mounting it on the wall and connecting it to the phase wire break. You can determine this wire at the connection point by successively touching the input wires with an indicator screwdriver. Upon contact with the phase on the screwdriver, the indicator will glow noticeably. If the indicator is not lit, this means it is connected to the neutral wire.

Connection to a two-key switch.

Here the connection diagram will be complicated by the presence of two phases for two groups of lamps in the chandelier. Therefore, at the water point, a phase is connected to the switch in the manner discussed above. At the output of the switch there will already be two outputs. These will be the phases for each group of lamps. They should be connected to the corresponding wires running along the ceiling to the chandelier.

Connecting a chandelier to a three-key switch.

Similar switches are used to control multi-light chandeliers, in which it is possible to distribute the lamps into three independent groups. Accordingly, in ceiling wiring It is necessary to provide for the presence of one more free core if we compare the circuit with the connection of a two-key switch. The remaining actions will be similar: a phase is supplied to the input of the switch, and phases for each of the three groups of lamps are connected to the output.

When installing the switch, you must carefully follow all safety regulations. Otherwise, renovations to your apartment could turn into a tragedy. Therefore, all work on laying wires, installing switches on walls and connecting wires on the ceiling should be performed only when the power is turned off. You can verify that it is disconnected using the same indicator screwdriver. At the entry point, when it is connected to all of the existing wires, the indicator should not light up.

In general, it is quite possible to connect a chandelier yourself even with minimal skills as an electrician. To do this, you should adhere to only a small list of rules:

carry out installation only with the power supply turned off;
even before starting, thoroughly study the connection diagram;
try to use as few extensions and wire connections as possible, giving preference to solid cables.

The result will be safe and long-term operation of chandeliers with any number of arms in the most comfortable conditions lighting.

Short video with the connection process

When buying a new lamp, few people think about how to connect the chandelier, how many drives are there and what kind of switch is needed? In the store, the seller gave recommendations on how to care for the lighting device, read the manufacturer’s advertisement by heart, and at this point the purchase was considered complete. But, upon arriving home, unpacking the lighting fixture, wires are discovered different colors. What should I do? What to do?

After all, the store said that the chandelier can only turn on two lamps, and not all five, and it is connected to a single-key switch. This article discusses all connection options, as well as security measures.

Safety precautions

Before you start connecting the chandelier to the electrical network, install a switch, you need to familiarize yourself with safety precautions when working with electricity. To do this, you do not need to study the Talmuds of “physics on electricity”; you should familiarize yourself with the rules:

In all tools used for working with electrical appliances, as well as electrical wiring, the handles are insulated.
To carry out work, electricity in the entire room is turned off at the switchboard. To do this, turning off the light switch is not enough. It is required to turn off the plugs on the electrical panel (meter in a private house), but if there are no buttons there, the plugs are unscrewed.
The switch for the lamp is installed in the “phase” wire gap.

If you follow these rules, then there will be no threat to life.

Checking wires with an indicator

How to recognize wires?

All wires are available in several colors. This makes the electrician's work much easier and gives a hint to the beginner.

Generally accepted standard:

Grounding – yellow wire with a light green stripe (ground).

Attention! It is not used to connect electrical devices. This is only grounding (so that during operation of the electrical appliance the current does not cause a “small tremor”).

Blue (cyan) wire – zero.
Colors other than those listed are phasic.

In houses and apartments with old wiring, all cables are the same; there was no grounding. To determine the type, you should make a call.

What threatens to swap phase and zero?

There is an opinion from people who consider themselves professionals (I installed 1 socket in the house) that when installing a switch there is no difference in connecting the wires, because electricity does not enter the lamp through the open contacts. This is not true. You should know exactly what is a phase and which wire goes “zero”. With a torn zero electricity does not arrive, but there is phase current in all cables. Which threatens to electrocute a person. Otherwise, fluorescent lighting devices, as well as “economy” lamps with phase current, flicker or glow dimly.

How to connect the wires?

Twisting is a very painstaking task. If it is done incorrectly, a rework is made. Therefore, you should do this correctly, and also firmly insulate it. If there are a lot of such twists, and there is a lot of voltage in the network or poor contact connections are heating up, then the electrical tape may quickly burn out, which will lead to a short circuit. Therefore, when twisting the wires, it is necessary to press them well and insulate them.

Terminal blocks are now used. They have proven themselves as fire-fighting elements. With their help, four or more twists are connected. One of them is WAGO. No tools are required for connection; installation takes place in just a few seconds. a short time. First, open the levers, insert the wires there and close the lever. In this case, the connection will be reliable and fireproof. The purchased new chandelier is disassembled, the quality of the pads and screws is checked. If necessary, the screws must be tightened well. Especially if the chandelier is made in China.

Terminal blocks are the most convenient to use

Required tools for installing a chandelier

In order to connect the chandelier to the wires on the ceiling, you will need the following tools:

Three different screwdrivers: flat end, figured, indicator.
Side cutter and pliers.
The knife must be sharpened.
Voltmeter.
Insulating tape.

A knife is required to expose the single-core wire, because the pliers will damage or break the core itself. The stripping is done with a sharp knife blade in the same way as a pencil is sharpened. If hangnails remain, there is no danger.

The indicator is needed to find the phase. In such a screwdriver, the tip is made for tightening screws. There is no need to do this, since it is impractical and will soon break.

There are 2 types of measuring instruments: with a digital screen and with arrows. Preference is given to digital ones, since their readings are the most accurate. Digital devices are shockproof and have overload protection. The pointer device is used in a horizontal position. Its advantage is that it shows measurement without additional food(accumulators, batteries).

Attention! In all devices the range alternating current no more than 500–600 watts.

To connect lighting fixture to the electrical network, you need to perform a step-by-step algorithm of actions with detailed instructions.

Preparatory work: ringing - determining the phase on the ceiling

At this stage of preparation, it will be clarified what to do with the ground wire and how to distinguish between phase and zero on ceiling? How to connect many threads of wires from a chandelier with cables on the ceiling? Connecting a lighting device with your own hands is a neat job, requiring minimal knowledge of electricity.

The indicator will help you find the right cable

Ground wire

If the wiring is already done on the ceiling (the wiring is done, for example, under drywall in frame basis), then among them there is “zero”, the rest are phase and ground.

Attention! Wiring with grounding is done in new buildings and in rooms with renovations.

The “ground” wire is yellow-green. According to the international standard, it is designated PE. It connects with the same color wire on the chandelier. You can’t just leave the wire like that, as this can lead to a short circuit. If there is a ground connection in the chandelier, and there is old wiring on the ceiling, then you need to make PE insulation in the chandelier. Grounding insulation is carried out on the ceiling, if the chandelier does not have one. Insulation is done carefully and efficiently insulating tape. It is unacceptable for the edge of the tape to stick out or come off.

Proper insulation

Looking for phases and zero

All wires are checked - you need to determine where the phase and zero are. You can't rely only on color scheme for several reasons. Firstly, it is not known (in many cases) how the wires were connected to the junction box - the qualifications of an electrician or a neighbor; secondly, the color range can change, and if a person is sure that the phase is red in color, then this opinion may be wrong.

If there are only three wires coming from the ceiling, a switch with 2 keys is installed, then there may be two supply wires for each section of the switch, and one zero - common. The call is made using a multimeter (tester) or indicator.

To make a call you need to do the following:

Wear shoes with rubber soles. Be in a dry room. Hands and feet should also be dry. Water is a conductor of current.
The voltage is turned on at the meter or panel, and the switch is set to “on” mode.
Be careful that the wires do not touch each other (so as not to burn all the wiring in the house) with an indicator and the edge of a screwdriver, touch each one in turn. If the screwdriver lights up, there is voltage.
When connecting a measuring device, the tester will show, with an arrow or numbers on the display, what voltage is in the wire.
To be sure (if the memory is bad), the phase is outlined with a marker or everything is written down on paper - what color.
After the phase is detected, the switch is turned off, and then the apartment is de-energized at the electrical panel or at the meter.

To determine the wires with the tester, you need to set the switch on the device to “volts” and select the “more than 220 V” scale. After this, carefully touch the probes, you need to hold them by the handle, and not by the bare iron, to the wiring in stages, and not to all at once. The two supply wires do not ring through each other. If there is such a pair, then these are phase wires. And the third is “zero”. Next, you need to connect each wire, the intended phase, with probes to zero. The tester screen will show 220 V. The cables should be marked with a marker on the insulation or the colors should be written down. Working with the indicator is easier: lit - phase, no - zero (indicated by the letter N). Phase - letter L.

If there are only 2 wires in the ceiling, one of them is definitely a phase. The switch is a single-key switch, and if there is a second one, then it is inoperative.

Chandelier connection diagrams

The market offers a large variety of chandeliers that amaze with their beauty and unusualness.

Chandelier with one socket.
With rotating platform.
With a large number of halogen and LED sources.
There are models with built-in dimmers and drivers that allow you to turn on the lighting device with a remote control. And also with the help of the remote control you can change the brightness of the light and the sequence of operation of the lamps.

But, despite such an extensive classification of chandelier models, they will all be connected according to the diagrams below.

One of the main nuances is the correct connection of cables on the ceiling with wires from the chandelier. WITH necessary tools connection is made quickly by a person who has no experience in working with electrical devices.

Chandelier connection diagram

If the switch is installed as a single switch, and the chandelier is two-wire (for example, arion or sconce), then you need to perform the actions according to the chandelier - ceiling 2x2 diagram. That is, there is a two-wire cable on the ceiling. This option is simple and fast. After the phase and zero are determined, the power supply is turned off. The neutral wire on the chandelier (you can find this out from the instructions for the lighting fixture, by color) needs to be connected to the desired “zero” on the ceiling. The same is done with the “phase”. All connected wires must be properly insulated. There are no difficulties here, installation is carried out quickly.

If the chandelier is five-armed or three-armed, and the switch has one key, then you should:

Examine all the wires in the chandelier. There are 2 wires coming out of each horn. This means that a phase and a zero are connected to each. Then all the lights will light up.
Preparing wires for connection to the general wiring of the house. Each wire on the chandelier is exposed by 3 cm. Since they are very thin, everything should be done carefully. Next, take all the wires of the same color (for example, blue) and twist them into one group. The result was a twist of one core from each cartridge. The same twist is done with the remaining wires of a different color.
It turned out to be 2 twists - zero will be suitable for one, and phase will be suitable for the second. After this, the indicator checks the closure of the cartridge-twist circuit.
Two twists of wires are fixed to 2 wires on the ceiling. Insulating tape must be used.

Attention! Do not connect aluminum and copper wires. These 2 metals will oxidize over time and the contact will be lost. There are special adapters for this.

Connecting a chandelier to a single-key switch

The chandelier has 2 wires, the ceiling has 3 wires (double switch)

There are 2 options here: the third wire is grounding or the second phase, with a switch with 2 keys. In such a situation, you need to do this:

A call must be made using an indicator. When working this way, there must be electric current in the network and the switch must be turned on. Otherwise the indicator will not show the second phase. Indicator behavior:

The first case is when, when touched with a screwdriver, 2 wires illuminate the indicator, but the third does not light up. This is the common wire.
The second case – one lights up, but the other 2 don’t. The wire that gives the glow is common.

If there is no indicator, then any 2 cables are taken from the ceiling and connected to the chandelier. The power on the panel and the switch are turned on. If the lamps light up, it means the installation is happening correctly. And there is no need to redo it further.

Indicate the phases and zero, if they are the same color, turn off the power to the meter.
After this, a common wire and one of the remaining two to choose from is fixed in the terminal. Wires from the chandelier are also connected. The exposure must be isolated.
If you want the chandelier to light from any of the two keys on the switch, a jumper is installed.

After complete isolation, the power supply is turned on and operation is checked.

If the switch is two-key and the chandelier is five-lamp, then:

In a chandelier, 2 wires come out from each horn with a lamp.
Everything is collected in one bundle and divided into groups (double): 2 feeders, 1 zero. One color – 1 group. The rest of those leaving are divided into random groups.
All groups of wires are twisted with those marked on the ceiling.

Connecting a chandelier with three wires to a multi-key switch

Connection diagram to a multi-key switch

If the chandelier is two-armed or larger, then connection options are possible:

If you turn on the switch, all the lights will light up.
Using one key, a group of light bulbs on a chandelier is turned on (for example, the lower sockets in a multi-tiered lamp).
Using one key, 2-3 lamps are lit, but not all.

There are 2 wires on the ceiling, which means that only the first option is possible - all the lamps will light up at the same time. To connect a chandelier with three wires to 2 on the ceiling, you should carefully study the technical characteristics of the chandelier. Basically, the manufacturer connects all the threads in the chandelier in pairs. In this case, the connection occurs in an elementary way: finding the phase and zero, and connecting the chandelier.

If in a chandelier each wire comes from the lampshade, then all the wires are connected in parallel by installing an additional jumper wire.

Connection diagram for a chandelier with several wires to a three-core cable on the ceiling

If it is necessary to turn on the lamps in groups in a three-lamp chandelier (five-cartridge carol), then the connection is made according to the diagram. In this case, a two- or three-key switch is installed. To do this, an indicator on the ceiling determines the common wire, zero, phase in a three-core cable. In this case, everyone has a switch with at least 2 keys. One wire of the pair, coming from each arm of the chandelier, is connected to the common wire.

There will be 2 threads left, joining the free wires from the pairs from the cartridges.

Attention! Before installing a multi-arm chandelier to a multi-key (triple) switch, you need to carefully study the lighting device, its technical characteristics and instructions for use.

Connection diagram to a three-key switch

Connecting a chandelier to a switch block with a socket

In some cases, it is necessary to install an outlet and a switch nearby (this is often found in the kitchen). These two points are replaced by one - the “socket-switch” block from anam. In this case, the switch has from one to four keys. Proceeding according to the diagram, which indicates the usual connection of the chandelier to the switch, installation will proceed quickly. The circuit has one wire that comes out of “zero” and goes to the socket terminal. The diagram is a classic one, but in practice, zero and phase are often swapped.

LED chandelier

Stands out because it's typical spotlight contains additional elements For uninterrupted operation laid down by the manufacturer. Such elements are: dimmers, drivers, converters. The light is controlled from the remote control.

Attached to the chandelier is a passport indicating the operation options, technical characteristics, as well as with an electrical diagram for connecting it to the electrical network. When connecting a chandelier, precise work must be done in accordance with the diagram given in the passport, otherwise it will not work correctly or will burn out. After connecting the lighting device to the network, adjustment and testing are carried out using a switch and remote control.

Connecting a chandelier to the lighting wiring is an integral part of any renovation, both in an apartment and in a separate room. And although this operation is associated with work in electrical circuits, absolutely anyone can cope with it. You just need to comply certain rules, and then the work will be done quickly, efficiently, and the question of how to connect the chandelier correctly will not arise.

Primary requirements

The most important requirements when working with electrical wiring are compliance with safety rules and rules for installing electrical devices. There is no point in studying the “bible” of electricians: “Rules safe operation electrical installations of consumers" (PBEEP) and "Rules for the construction of electrical installations" (PUE). Such documentation is necessary mainly for those people for whom working with electricity is their main activity. For home repairs, to connect a chandelier with a switch, it is enough to know and follow simple rules.

Rule 1. All tools that will be used to perform work on electrical wiring must have high-quality insulation handles

Rule 2. Most work should be performed only on de-energized wires. It is not enough to flip the light switch. To completely cut off the power, there is a main switch on the apartment panel, which must be turned off before starting work.
Rule 3. The light switch is mounted exclusively in the break of the phase wire.

Wiring diagram for a chandelier with a double switch

As can be seen from the figure, on double switch three wires fit, one of which comes from distribution box, and the other two are used to connect the lamp. Therefore, when installing new wiring, you need to use a cable with 3 wires.

Connecting a chandelier to a double switch follows the same rules as connecting a regular lamp.

What are the risks of polarity reversal?

Quite often you can hear from non-professional advisers that the switch can be installed on any wire. Like, what difference does it make, because when the contacts are open, no current flows through the lamp and that’s enough. This is wrong. The fact is that if the switch breaks the neutral conductor, then no current will flow through the chandelier lamps, but there will be a phase potential on all wires, which threatens an electric shock during work.

A less dangerous, but unpleasant feature of such switching is that fluorescent lamps and “housekeeper” lamps can glow faintly or flicker even in the off position.

Tool

To connect a chandelier or other lamp you will need the following:

Straight and Phillips screwdrivers;
Side cutters;
Pliers;
Sharp knife;
Measuring instrument, digital or pointer;
Indicator screwdriver (probe);
Insulating tape.

The purpose of most tools is clear without comment. Why do you need a knife? In some cases, namely when stripping insulation from single-core conductors electric cable, side cutters or pliers cannot be used, since a transverse cut of the core on the connected wire will lead to its fracture. This is especially true for aluminum wires.

The insulation must be cut with a sharp knife, similar to how a pencil is sharpened. Longitudinal scratches on wire strands are not dangerous.

The indicator screwdriver is used to search for the phase conductor. And although its end allows for use as a screwdriver, this is not necessary, since mechanical strength The indicator is very small and it is almost impossible to tighten the screw properly without breaking the tool (it is possible, but the tool will not last long).

You should dwell in more detail on measuring instruments. They are digital and pointer. For most parameters, digital is preferable. They have high accuracy, are not afraid of shocks and falls from heights, and are protected from overload.

The pointer device should be used only in the position for which it is intended (most portable devices should be placed horizontally); a fall from a height will with a 100% probability disable it, as will overload if the regulator is incorrectly set. The undoubted advantage of a pointer device is that voltage measurements can be made without a built-in power source.

Note for all types of devices: the operating range must provide for measuring an alternating voltage of at least 500 V.

Wire marking

To facilitate the continuity of wires and eliminate errors, color marking of the insulation of conductors in the cable is used. The generally accepted standard is the marking of the grounding conductor yellow with a green stripe.

You should never use a conductor with this color to connect devices! This conductor is used for grounding only.

For the zero (neutral) conductor, conductors with blue or light blue colors are used. Phase conductors may have various colors except those listed.

Problems arise when working in houses with old wiring. Once upon a time, the insulation of wires was made the same for all cores, so before starting work it was necessary to test the wires.

Wiring continuity

First of all, you need to check that the switch is connected correctly. In the open position, the indicator screwdriver should show the presence of a phase on one of the conductors. If the phase cannot be found, this means that the switch is not connected correctly or there are problems in the distribution box.

In the place of the ceiling where the lamp will be installed, there must be at least two wires coming out - neutral and phase from the switch. When connecting a multi-arm chandelier, the number of wires may be large. One of them remains neutral, the number of others corresponds to the number of keys on the switch.

Using the indicator

Determining the purpose of each wire is very simple. When the switch is on, only one of the wires should not have voltage. The rest should cause the indicator to glow. By turning off the light switch keys one by one, you can determine which wire corresponds to a particular key.

Using a voltmeter

When checking with a measuring device, you need to find a wire relative to which voltage will be present on the other wires. This wire will be zero. The device will show no voltage between the remaining wires. Next, leaving one of the device probes connected to the neutral wire, turn off the switch keys one by one to determine the identity of the wires.

Connecting wires

Connecting the luminaire wires to the lighting wiring can be done by soldering, twisting and using special adapter terminal blocks.

Soldering is the most reliable method, but it is quite difficult to do it at height in the limited space between the base of the chandelier and the ceiling. Therefore, this method is practically not used.

Twisting can only be used when twisting conductors of approximately the same diameter. Single and multi-core wires must not be twisted together.

Such a connection forms an electrochemical couple and, in the presence of even traces of humidity in the room, quickly oxidizes, causing a breakdown in contact and heating the joint. Most fires are caused by poor wiring connections.

The twisted area must be carefully wrapped with insulating tape so that the tape touches the insulation of both wires being connected. It is better to use special insulating caps.

Most the best way connections – use of connecting terminals. You can find a wide variety of terminal types on sale - from simple screw terminals to spring terminals.

What to do if the type of switch or chandelier does not match the required

It may happen that old chandelier had several groups of lamps and was turned on from a two-key switch, and after the repair it was decided to install a regular single-arm one. Or vice versa, instead of a simple chandelier, a multi-arm chandelier was installed. How to properly connect the lamp?

There are more keys than conductors in the chandelier

If more wires come out from the double switch (and from the ceiling, respectively, to the chandelier) than are necessary to connect the chandelier (most often - four, one of which is grounding), then the most radical way– replace the switch, and leave some of the wires free.

Or you can connect a simple chandelier to a double switch. You can combine the wires coming from different switch keys. The connection can be made on the ceiling in front of the chandelier connection block or in the switch itself (in this case, the second wire to the chandelier must be left free). Then the chandelier will be turned on by any key, and to turn it off you need all the keys to be in the off position.

The number of keys is less than the number of conductors in the chandelier

If you do not repair the wiring, then connecting a chandelier with two arms or more to two wires is possible in only one way - by combining all separate groups of lamps into one.

As a last resort, if the wiring allows, you can use two switches.

A completely different situation when connecting modern chandelier with remote control remote control. Regardless of the number of groups of light bulbs, the connection of the chandelier to the switch is carried out by wiring with two wires, and the switching of different groups of lamps is carried out by a control unit located in the luminaire.

When buying a new three-arm chandelier, everyone pays attention to the many wires inside and asks the question, how to connect the wires in the chandelier?

Many chandeliers, especially those brought from China, do not have necessary connections. Therefore, for example, before connecting a chandelier with three lamps to a switch with two keys, you need to decide how many separate groups of light bulbs there will be. Lamps belonging to the same group must be connected in parallel. Typically, each light bulb socket will have a pair of wires coming out of it in two colors, usually blue or black and brown. For example, a three-arm chandelier will have 6 wires inside. Wires of the same color must be twisted together. This is done with each group of light bulbs.

Further blue wires from each group one wire is also connected together and taken out from them, which will then be connected to the neutral conductor. Separate wires are also taken out from the other connections and connected to the wires from the switch.

Option for connecting a five-arm chandelier with two groups to a two-key switch

Connecting a five-arm chandelier is no more difficult than connecting any chandelier with a two-key switch.

Connecting a five-arm chandelier with 5 lamps usually means dividing it into two groups with 2 and 3 lamps in each. And then the connection diagram will be no different from installing a chandelier with three wires.

When connecting the wires inside the chandelier using twists, you must carefully insulate them. Installation is greatly simplified when using special terminals. The most common are Wago terminals.

The figure clearly shows that the blue wires connected together are connected to the neutral wire, the brown wires, divided into two groups, are connected to separate wires from the two-key switch.

When connecting several lamps to one switch, they are also connected in parallel.

Using Grounding

New buildings to comply existing standards must be equipped with electrical wiring with grounding conductors. As already mentioned, such wires are marked with yellow-green colors. In this case, for a chandelier with two groups of lamps, 4 wires will come out of the ceiling: grounding, neutral and two phase, from the switch.

On lamps with metal parts A ground terminal is usually provided. Therefore, when connecting a lamp, you must also remember to ground it to the chandelier. If there is no ground terminal, the ground wire does not need to be connected. You just need to insulate it and hide it under the lamp body.