Is it beneficial to pour salt into a compost pit? Ten Things You Should Never Add to Compost

A compost heap provides well-known benefits: organic waste from household and the garden are quickly disposed of, birds find plenty there small insects for nutrition, and finally, in the form of the resulting compost, you acquire valuable and free bio-fertilizer. Due to the high humus content and nutrients, as well as the ability to retain moisture, compost soil the best way Suitable for improving soil quality.

Advice: Sprinkle a preparation between the layers of compost to speed up the maturation of the compost and the soil for your garden will be ready faster!

Compost heaps must be protected from direct sun rays and wind, and it is best if they are located in partial shade. The decomposition process is particularly positively influenced by: earthworms, wood lice and microorganisms. With them compost heap It will dry out much less. It’s convenient when there is a good approach to it.

Compost soil is formed as a result of decomposition and degeneration organic matter. This process involves microorganisms, woodlice, actinomycetes and worms. It is ideal as a fertilizer for upper layers soil, but is not suitable for growing seedlings because it contains too many nutrients. If you mix it with soil and sand, it will become a good flower soil.

Fertilizing the garden, as well as agricultural land, with compost is always done purposefully in order to quickly and under control transform organic matter in the soil. Here we show you how to start a compost pile and what to pay attention to over time.

Pawning
The compost heap can be started at any time (exception: frost). Perfect timing autumn is for this purpose, because it falls most of all garden waste.

Sublayer
In the place where you are going to start the compost heap, dig a layer of soil 15 cm deep and an area equal to the desired compost heap (for example 1.50 m x 1.50 m) and place drainage there: when clay soil- layer of sand, with sandy soil- layer clay soil.

Structure
A compost pile requires heat, air and moisture. It is laid in layers in such a way as to provide deep penetration moisture and air circulation. In this case, the bottom layer is formed from coarse waste (hedge trimmings, shredded trimmings of bushes and trees), and then alternate layers of green mass and brushwood follow in a 2:1 ratio, which are laid out loosely, not tightly, for better air circulation.

Intermediate layers
Between these layers of mixed waste approximately 20 - 25 cm high, you should also lay a thin intermediate layer of nitrogen-containing animal fertilizer and lime (attention: only slaked!) - you can also use preparations to accelerate ripening - and then pour on top thin layer soil or last year's compost.

Completion
The compost heap should be narrowed from the base to the top and no more than 1.50 m in height. Leaves, straw or shredded grass clippings can be used as a top protective layer.

Too humid? Too dry?
If the compost heap is too wet, it means that it is not properly ventilated. And she is in danger of rotting. The compost heap needs to be well ventilated and rearranged. If it is too dry, it means that the compost is generating too much heat. Therefore, if the compost heap is dry, water it, and if it rains, cover it.

Shifting
For small compost heaps this is not necessary; Large compost piles are best turned in early summer. Since they are an incubator for many beneficial organisms. When relaying, the material should also be laid in layers from edge to middle and from middle to edge.

Usage
After nine months, if the compost has been properly compiled, it can be spread around the garden. The best time This is what autumn is for. Even earlier, you can use so-called coarse compost, which has broken down into larger pieces and is especially suitable for mulching (mulch-compost is distributed only over the surface of the soil).

Sieve
Using a sieve, you can additionally sift the compost soil. The remaining large parts can be put back into the compost heap. Spread the compost soil around the garden and smooth it out a little with a rake (but don’t bury it).

4. Composition of compost - what can be put in compost?

• Garden waste
• Shredded grass clippings
• Foliage
• Shrub and tree trimmings (shredded, chopped)
• Eggshell
• Fruit and vegetable waste
• Coffee grounds, tea leaves
• Straw, hay, sawdust

Compost is an indispensable component of nutritious soil in the garden of any gardener. In addition, it is also recognized as the most affordable fertilizer in terms of cost, since the main component of its production is waste. That is, it is made from practically nothing, because in any garden there will always be some kind of waste.

You just need to know that in order to obtain complete nutrients for the soil, the compost heap must be properly prepared. After all, compost will not only fertilize the soil, but will also improve its structure, looseness and ability to retain and absorb moisture.

What is compost

In order for the garden to be well-groomed and provide good harvest, it just needs to be fertilized. You can do this with the help of chemical fertilizers, or you can get by with your own free, useful and safe product.

Compost is a natural organic fertilizer that is obtained by fermentation under the action of earthworms and bacteria.

To obtain such fertilizer, a compost heap is laid. Often it is done by simply digging a hole in the ground, but it is better if it is a specially equipped place - a composting site.

Compost bins are made in the form of closed or open containers, but you can also purchase special plastic boxes equipped with a lid and door.

Prepared compost is added to the holes before planting. garden crops V open ground or for planting in greenhouses. Or it is scattered over the area before planting seed material and lightly mix with soil.

What is compost made from?

Many people think that to prepare compost it is enough to throw all kinds of waste into a heap in some corner of the garden. Time will pass, they will rot, and you will get fertilizer. But this is far from true.

To achieve safe and healthy compost, you need to have the right compost piles, so there are a few things to keep in mind. First of all, the composition of such a heap. It may include:

• ash, chalk, charcoal, eggshells;
• grass clippings, straw and hay;
• sawdust and tree debris;
• vegetable food waste;
• weeds and healthy green plants;
• bird droppings and animal manure;
• compost stimulants.

Composter dimensions

The components from which compost is made are placed in a compost bin. Proper compost does not release into the soil harmful substances and does not cause inconvenience with a strong unpleasant odor.

It is important to respect the dimensions of the compost bin, otherwise it will be difficult to create a comfortable temperature and humidity regime for the compost. The optimal dimensions of the heap are one and a half meters in width and the same or more in length. If you make a bunch smaller in size, then it will quickly lose moisture and will not be able to warm up well. This will cause the composting process to take a long time.

Ban on compost

Before you make a compost heap, you need to know that you cannot add to its composition:

• disinfectants and chemicals;
• remnants of weeds with seeds of long-term germination or roots of creeping plants, since they do not lose their germination during composting;
• the remains of coated glossy paper, rubber, textiles, as well as animal bones and stones - all these substances do not decompose in compost;
• human feces and pet waste, which may be contaminated with worm eggs;
• diseased plants that are affected by pests and fungi, such as late blight - such residues must be burned in the garden;
• food waste of animal origin, which triggers rotting processes and causes a persistent unpleasant odor.

Open composting facility

You can compost, as advice to gardeners in specialized publications teaches, in the following way:

1. Prepare a site for the composting bin. To do this you need to select appropriate place at the end or middle of the garden and level the ground. Shaded places without direct access are better suited for this purpose. sunlight.
2. Then fence off the area required for the composter with boards, shields or sheets of slate. Or put together a wooden box with slots for air exchange. You can also attach it to metal supports special garden net. This can be one container or two separated by a partition, one of which will be filled this year, and the second - next year.
3. Dig a hole half a meter deep and add a drainage layer to the bottom. For this you can use sand, gravel, large wood debris. It is necessary to make such a layer, since it is impossible to allow the water that will wet the compost heap to collect in the compost bin. It should flow out of the compost bin without obstruction.
4. Then it is necessary to lay a small layer of ready-made mature compost from last or the year before on the drainage layer. This is necessary to supply the ingredients of the heap with bacteria, with the help of which the compost is fermented.

Creating a closed composting facility

More reliable and robust construction than an open compost bin is a closed compost bin. It is built with walls that have slits for ventilation, and with a lid that will allow you to mix the compost. Such a compost heap at the dacha has a neater appearance and does not interfere with the aesthetic perception of the space. As a rule, such a container is made of plastic that does not rot, does not fall apart, and will last for a long time.

To install the ventilation system, pipes are inserted into the box, which are protected with a mesh so that they do not become clogged with compost.

The advantages of a closed compost heap are that it allows heat to accumulate quickly and retains it well. This kills pests and speeds up the fermentation process.

Another advantage is that in these containers it is not necessary to strictly observe the proportions of the constituent ingredients. You can throw various acceptable waste, residues and grass into the pile in any convenient quantities. It is only important to mix it all systematically.

How to make a compost heap

For proper preparation heap ingredients needed:

1. Prepare the necessary components by grinding them as finely as possible. Branches can be broken and plant debris can be chopped up with a shovel. The smaller the components of the pile, the faster the compost will mature.
2. Lay the components in layers, the thickness of each layer should be up to 15 cm. In this case, it is necessary to alternate the placement of food waste, wood residues and green mass of plants.
3. The layers can be covered with manure or droppings, or commercial liquid fertilizers can be used. Compost stimulants are also used at this stage. It is better to use cow or horse manure for the heap, and the best poultry manure is chicken manure.
4. The top of the pyramidal compost heap is covered with straw, spandbond, boards or plant stems. This is necessary for free air circulation. Gardeners often cover the pile with polyethylene, but this is not recommended: when covered with plastic film, the compost will overheat without access to air. And this is fraught with the appearance of a putrid, unpleasant, persistent odor.

Aging of compost

The preparation of compost and the duration of its ripening is directly dependent on what fractions have compost components and what fermentation mode is set. In general, fermentation and composting take a very long time, the minimum period is several months, the maximum is two to three years.

The finer the fractions of the incorporated components, the faster composting will occur. It is also important that the temperature inside the compost pyramid is close to 60 degrees or higher. This will not only speed up the process of decomposition of ingredients, which occurs with the help of bacteria, but will also help to eliminate as much as possible the possibility of germination of weed seeds. Also, at such a high temperature, harmful insects die.

To ensure the correct fermentation regime, it is important that there is good moisture and air exchange inside the pyramid.

Providing fermentation

In order to speed up the composting and fermentation of the components of the compost heap, it is necessary to perform the following actions:

1. When hot and dry weather sets in, the compost pyramid needs to be watered. Moreover, the water should wet all layers of the heap. This process is most conveniently performed using a garden hose. large section, because it will be required a large number of water.
2. Watering the heap must be done in the morning; in this case, during the day, the wet compost will have time to warm up well, and the process of active decomposition will begin.
3. How to water the compost heap? Water it with regular water warm water, but from time to time it is necessary to add a compost stimulator to the water or infuse fresh manure in it.
4. The compost needs to be shoveled a couple of times a season. This helps bring the well-fermented inner layers to the top. In this case, the upper ones move inward.
5. Also, when mixed, the compost is saturated with air and gets rid of accumulated gases.
6. With the onset of cold weather, the composter needs to be insulated, which prolongs the process of active composting. To insulate the pile, sprinkle it with humus or peat, and then top it with tops from harvested root vegetables, sunflower stems or fresh straw. This year, the remains of plants will retain heat, and next year they will serve as ingredients for a new pile.

Compost from fallen leaves

Separately, it is worth mentioning compost from fallen leaves, popularly known as “ leaf soil" How to properly make a compost pile from fallen leaves?

This compost is based on fallen leaves. The advantage of this approach is that at the end of autumn the leaves lose minerals, and only lignin, tannin and hemicellulose, which are valuable ingredients of humus, remain in their tissues. The downside is that these components rot rather slowly, which prolongs the composting time. The foliage of oaks, beeches, chestnuts, willows and plane trees contains a lot of tannin. Therefore, their leaf mass should not be used for laying in a pile, but only for covering it.

Leaf compost matures noticeably longer than usual, about two years. But gardeners do it because it is very valuable because it improves the quality of the soil. It also contains microfungi that decompose hemicellulose and lignin. And this becomes useful for those garden plants, in which the roots interact with fungal microflora in the process of symbiosis.

For getting good result When composting, there are some things to consider:

1. When creating a compost bin, you need to take into account that microorganisms come from the ground, so you need to set it up in a clean space where no chemicals have been used.
2. Composting is accelerated by adding valerian officinalis, yarrow, chamomile and dandelion to the pile of herbs.
3. To speed up fermentation, bioconcentrates are added to the compost. In this case, you get a so-called fast compost heap, which can mature in three weeks.
4. Need to know that great content in the compost of fresh pine sawdust, the potassium balance noticeably decreases, so such compost at the ready stage must be enriched with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.
5. The presence of green components in compost should not exceed one third of the total volume, because herbs ferment slowly and can rot. If it turns out that the bulk will consist of grass, then it must first be dried in the sun.
6. The highest quality compost is created using a variety of components. Not only organic components must be present, but also mineral ones. For this purpose, the compost heap is supplied with superphosphates, dolomite flour, and complex mineral fertilizers.
7. It should be borne in mind that manure is a concentrated fertilizer, so its content in compost should not be higher than 10%.
8. For better stability and increased air exchange processes, the compost heap should be laid in a cone shape or in the form of a pyramid.
9. In order for the heap to ripen faster, components containing a lot of nitrogen, such as straw, legumes or legumes, are added to it.

Organic fertilizers for plants and soil are safe substances that prevent the soil from drying out and depleting. The soil that produces crops annually is subject to fertilizing. The principle of operation of organics is simple: the whole process occurs with the participation of soil microorganisms and earthworms, as well as insects and their larvae.

In a word, for the activity of bacteria to continue, organic matter is needed, and for organic matter to grow, bacteria are needed. In addition, you need to know what not to put in compost so that microbial activity continues throughout the process.

Humic acids are the main substance that gives high fertility rates. Humates are produced under the action of enzymes in the digestive tract of microorganisms and earthworms.

The work of the latter is especially useful. Eukaryotes release coprolites into the soil, which because of this becomes several times more nutritious. Plants absorb microelements several times faster and better, which affects crop yields: it increases by at least 50%.

Compost components

The raw materials for producing compost on your own site are all types of organic matter. These are dry fallen leaves, vegetable and fruit peelings, trimmed tree branches, mown green grass or hay, dry straw, paper or cardboard, coarse manure cattle or bird droppings.

All components are divided into nitrogen and carbon containing. It is necessary to distinguish between them in order to correctly lay out the components and correctly calculate the amount of some and other ingredients.

If, for example, you try to make fertilizer from nitrogen substances alone, the compost heap will begin to rot and emit a stench. The result will be silage. In the worst case scenario, the entire pile will have to be disposed of.

The increased content of carbon-containing substances leads to the fact that natural conditions, without the use of accelerators, fertilizers will have to wait 2 years. This is not profitable, since plants and soil require nutrition every year.

The correct ratio of substances is when For 1 part nitrogen there are 3 parts carbon-containing components.

Nitrogen raw materials:

• manure;

• fresh grass;

• raw cleaning;

• vegetable tops.

Carbon raw materials:

• straw;

• hay;

• paper;

• dry leaves;

• pine litter - be careful with the amount, since such an additive increases acidity;

• woody branches.

To make the composting process faster, large particles must be crushed before storing.

And in order to get fertilizer in 1.5 - 2 months, you need to use biodestructors and properly care for the composter.

Methods for preparing fertilizer

There are two different ways making compost at home. In a sealed composter without oxygen and in an open compost heap. In the first case, anaerobic bacteria will do all the work.

These are microorganisms that do not like sunlight, high temperature and die when exposed to air. If you use them to decompose components, the compost heap must be hermetically sealed and not opened until the fertilizer has matured.

The aerobic method does not require a sealed container, but is more labor-intensive, since the process requires shoveling the mixture several times to ventilate it. With such care, bacteria multiply faster and process plant residues more intensively. It is necessary to monitor the humidity level so that the compost pile does not dry out.

Vermicompost

This method of preparing fertilizer is the fastest, since in addition to bacteria, plant residues are processed by red Californian worms.

This type is the most effective because reproduces 500 times faster than ordinary worms, but to produce great amount cocoons, they need to eat a lot. If conditions external environment meet the needs of this species, then the finished fertilizer can be made not only for yourself, but also for sale.

Conditions of detention:

• Warm room with a temperature of 18 - 20 degrees.

• Equipped pile with wet raw materials and air access.

• Constant supply of plant residues for nutrition.

Vermicompost is the most nutritious organic fertilizer, which requires three times less than other fertilizers. Absorbed completely within a short time, so it does not have time to be washed out by rain.

Where to set up a composter

The compost heap box must be hidden from sunlight, which negatively affects the growth of bacteria. This could be a shade tree or a canopy with a roof. It is advisable that the box has a lid to prevent precipitation from getting inside.

The bottom of the composter is concreted or left open. For a stationary pile, it is better to make a solid floor, since during the maturation process, nutrient fluid flows out, which must be preserved, since it is rich in nitrogen. As an option, they are lined with straw, peat or soil.

You can make a box yourself from boards, mesh or slate, or you can buy a ready-made container. In the first case, it is easier to care for the compost, but only the aerobic composting method is available. Raw materials for both aerobic and anaerobic rotting are placed in plastic containers. But it is more difficult to care for because the container has a small hatch.

How to properly start a compost heap

First, prepare the components and grind them to increase the area of ​​penetration of bacteria. It is recommended to air dry freshly cut green grass to reduce the amount of nitrogen. This will prevent rotting and speed up ripening.

The first thing to do is put it on the bottom soil layer about 30 cm. Next, the layers are alternated so that for 3 parts of carbon-containing components there is one layer of nitrogen. It is recommended to water each layer with a solution of biological fertilizer - purchased in a store or prepared with your own hands - for this, yeast and fermented milk products are used.

For aerobic composting, the ingredients are placed loosely, without compaction, so that there is air between them and bacteria can multiply.

Video: How to properly make compost from weeds

After laying the components, after 2 - 3 days it is necessary to shovel the pile. The temperature at this moment is already beginning to rise due to the release of gases. Then you need to turn the mixture every two weeks. If necessary, pour water, but do not fill it, as this will lead to the death of microorganisms. The mixture should be slightly damp.

What you can and cannot add to compost

The question that most interests summer residents is what can be put in compost. You can add all the organic matter, but make sure that it is not affected by fungus, otherwise the disease will spread throughout the area along with the fertilizer.

Which plant tops should not be put into compost:

• cabbage put into compost if it is not damaged by clubroot - growths on the roots;

• tomatoes and potatoes are susceptible to late blight disease, which causes darkening of the leaves; if the tops are healthy, then they can be used as raw materials;

• weeds cannot be put into compost if they are collected with seeds - they are first soaked in water so that the shell becomes soft, then bacteria can destroy it;

• snot roots pre-crushed so that the plant cannot survive and germinate in the composter.

Which tops cannot be put into compost are determined by appearance. The greens should be clean, and the root area should be free of darkened areas.

What should not be put in the compost heap:

• glass– it is not processed by bacteria;

• rubber– can cause the death of microorganisms;

• artificial fabric scraps– they are also not digested;

• feces of domestic cats and dogs, since there is a risk of contracting toxoplasmosis;

• meat waste and fat– it attracts flies and other pests;

• painted boards or sawdust with chemicals;

• glossy paper– it is treated with chemicals based on heavy metals.

Not suitable for processing into fertilizer construction garbage– drywall, laminate and plastic.

Questions that cause controversy among gardeners:

• Can I put it in compost? potato peelings? You don’t even have to grind it if you use EO preparations. The exception is tubers affected by fungus.

• Can strawberry leaves be put into compost? Berry plants are also susceptible to diseases, but if everything is in order with the bushes, then the cuttings are placed in a heap.

There is often debate about whether to bring in meat and fish waste. It is better not to do this, as rotting meat attracts insects that lay eggs. Fish waste often contains helminth larvae. This compost can contaminate the entire soil on the site.

Care of aerobic and anaerobic composting soil

With anaerobic composting, human intervention is not required. The main thing is that the temperature outside corresponds to the mode of functioning of the bacteria. IN winter time The container is transferred to a warm room.

If ripening occurs with access to air, then the more air there is, the faster the compost will be ready. For this every 2 – 3 weeks loosen the components with a pitchfork. In hot weather the pile is watered clean water without chlorine. To prevent rain from getting inside the compost bin, it is covered with film or a piece of plastic.

How to determine the degree of maturation

If accelerators of biological origin are not used, compost can be checked for maturity after a year. At proper care and the use of biodestructors, it matures in 2 – 3 months.

The finished fertilizer has a loose structure and is slightly moistened. Depending on the components, the color can be brown or black. The smell is reminiscent of fresh forest soil after rain. All particles have decomposed and it is impossible to determine which components were originally included in the composition.

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Can you tell me what can be put in the compost heap? I decided to make my own fertilizer for tomato beds. Our land is not bad, but I noticed that in last years the harvest was a little poor. I don’t really like chemicals and try not to use them in the garden. Is it only from pests, if folk remedies they don't save. I thought it was compost... The best decision, especially since there is enough vegetation. I heard that foliage and tops are suitable, but what else?

Composting is perfect solution, which will help get rid of food and plant waste and at the same time enrich the soil on the site. However, before you dump everything into one hole, it is important to know what can be put in the compost pile. Its contents should not only rot quickly, but also turn into a useful mass. Some components will not only be useless, but may have completely the opposite effect. And then, instead of valuable organic fertilizer, you will just end up with a garbage dump.

A compost heap consists of several layers that must be alternated. Place boards or large branches at the bottom of the hole - they will serve as a drainage layer and allow excess water to drain. Then alternate brown and green masses, diluting them with a small layer of soil or manure. The brown mass represents solid waste with carbon content, and the green mass represents vegetation and food residues with nitrogenous components.

What can you put in your compost pile?

Good organic fertilizer can be obtained provided that high-quality organic materials are used for compost. Worms, bacteria and insects will “help” them decompose.

Suitable for composting:

• plants (without root system and seed pods);
• foliage;
• small wood without paint;
• tops of garden crops;
• sawdust;
• herbivore manure;
• fruits and vegetables (not treated with poisons);
• food waste (except meat and milk, which may attract animals);
• tea and coffee brewing;
• eggshell;
• mushrooms, including wormy mushrooms;
• paper towels and napkins.

What waste is not suitable for composting?

Compost is not a landfill; you cannot dump there everything that remains after cleaning your house, garden, or vegetable garden. First of all, its components must quickly decompose or rot. In addition, it is important that they are not infected with diseases or aggressive towards the main participants - worms and beneficial microorganisms.

To add to a compost heap you should absolutely not use:

1. Any parts of plants affected by diseases. Among them are the tops of tomatoes, potatoes, peppers and cucumbers, which can be with. The fungus will infect the entire compost.
2. Weeds with roots and seeds (they then germinate).
3. Vegetation treated with pesticides (the drugs kill beneficial organisms in the heap).
4. Colored dyed fabric or glossy paper (also contains harmful impurities).
5. Pet and human feces (may contain worms).

Some plants that kill beneficial microorganisms in the pile. Among them: foxglove, broom, aconite, lilies of the valley, castor bean. Also, so that the compost is ready in short time, it is not recommended to use components that slow down decay.

To get strong tomato bushes and a rich harvest, it is recommended to use compost. This natural fertilizer, which even an inexperienced summer resident can prepare.

Beneficial features

Organic fertilizers nourish root system plants, stimulate growth and productivity. Among their advantages:

• soil improvement due to useful minerals;
• increasing productivity;
• strengthening plant immunity;
• increasing the resistance and endurance of tomatoes;
• a simple principle for making fertilizer.

When heated in a natural way pathogenic microorganisms and pest larvae are neutralized in the compost substrate.

Compost is rich useful substances. Among them: phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium. They are important for the proper growth of tomatoes and abundant fruiting.

Important!

Soil that has been fertilized with organic matter retains nutrients into the next season. Tomatoes grow strong on it and tolerate unfavorable weather conditions well.

Compound

Organic fertilizers can be divided into two groups, depending on their constituent components.

1. Nitrogen or green. They stimulate decomposition processes by releasing heat.
2. Carbonaceous or brown. The decomposition process occurs more slowly, with minimal heat generation. Their task is to ensure soil looseness and moisture retention.

Nitrogens nourish the soil well and saturate it with useful substances. Carbon fibers make the soil looser, eliminating stagnation of water.

The components of green compost can be:

• green grass;
• fruit and vegetable waste;
• food production waste;
• rotted manure;
• seedless weeds;
• seaweed;
• chicken droppings;
• stems and buds of flowers.

Meat waste cannot be added to the pit. As they decompose, they release strong smell. This attracts flies and rodents.

The components of carbon compote are:

• dry leaves;
• hay;
• egg shells;
• sawdust;
• wood ash;
• waste paper, excluding cardboard and gloss.

Pine needles are added to brown compost in small quantities. Its excess can negatively affect the quality of the fertilizer, so you need to observe the measure.

How to prepare a compost pit for tomatoes

Choose a shaded place for the compost pit. For example, far corner garden, crown tall tree.

The design is wooden box without bottom. It allows you to easily mix the contents, prevents moisture from stagnating and ensures good air circulation.

To make it you will need boards. The best ones are pine, they are durable. Small gaps are left between the boards for free access of oxygen. Optimal size structures - 1.5x1.5 meters. The height must be at least a meter.

To prevent nutrients from being washed out of the pit during the rainy season, you need to provide a lid. Instead, you can use slate or thick film. A pull-out section at the bottom of the drawer will allow you to easily get ready-made humus.

Important!

To mature compost fertilizer, at least three months. In some cases, the period is extended to two years. Ready humus can be distinguished by characteristic features: dark brown color, earthy smell, uniform crumbly structure.

Forming a compost heap

The process includes several stages:

1. Formation of drainage. The first layer consists of thin twigs, peat and dry grass. Its height should not be less than 15 cm.
2. Brown layer. Fertilizers are compacted and watered abundantly. The second layer is 20 cm.
3. Green layer. Its height is 20 cm. Repeat abundant watering.
4. An earthen layer 5-10 cm high. Consists of fertile soil.
5. Next, the stacking of components is repeated until the box is full.
6. When the compost settles, add new layers of fertilizer and soil.
7. Twice a month the contents of the pit are shoveled. Thus, additional air flow is created.
8. In autumn, the hole is filled with a thick layer sawdust or foliage. The compost is covered on top plastic film.

To speed up the process of compost maturation, exclude the earthen layer. The pit is covered with plastic film. The compost mixture is often and abundantly watered with a catalyst and mixed. This method allows you to obtain fertilizer in 2-3 months.

What ingredients should not be put into tomato compost?

When forming a compost heap, exclude the following components:

• weed plants;
• banana and orange peels;
• meat waste;
• potato and tomato tops;
• nut shells, fruit seeds;
• coal ash;
• fresh manure;
• dairy waste;
• diseased plants;
• animal hair and feces;
• bones.

Plants treated with pesticides should not be added to the hole. Organic fertilizer is natural; chemicals will reduce the quality and nutritional value of the compost.

Conclusion

Compost helps grow strong and healthy tomatoes. It prevents the growth of weeds and prevents the top layer of soil from drying out. With the help of available organic fertilizer, a rich harvest is obtained, regardless of weather conditions.