Victoria climbing rose description. Rose Excelsa: photo and description

Location: sunny and ventilated.

Roses are light-loving plants, so it is best to plant them on walls and supports with southern and southwestern exposure. Preference should still be given to southern exposure; good lighting helps the growth to ripen, which will flower next year.

Landing: A strip of land 50-60 cm wide is enough.

They are planted in pre-prepared holes measuring 50 x 50 cm. If the holes are dry, the day before planting they need to be watered and manure added - no less than half a bucket into each hole. In order for the bush to be strong and bloom profusely, after planting the plant must be cut 15 - 20 cm from the soil level.

Climbing roses, used to decorate walls and other objects, are planted at a distance of at least 45 cm from the landscaping object.

Care: from the second year after planting climbing roses are content with minor care, consisting of rare but abundant watering, fertilizing and pruning.

Faded branches are pruned to encourage additional flowering. Water roses every 8-10 days.

The soil around the plant is mulched with sawdust, humus, straw, and grass. Cow dung, which is applied during planting, is used by the plants for two years.

In subsequent years, fertilizers are needed, especially organic ones. In addition to manure, you can feed roses with mineral and complex fertilizers: TMAU (peat-mineral-nitrogen), flower mixture, etc. During the growing season, four to five feedings are required.

Trimming: climbing roses need pruning. Its main goal is to form a crown, obtain abundant and long-lasting flowering, and maintain plants in a healthy condition. In addition, pruning helps to achieve continuous shoot coverage of the object near which the plants are planted.

When pruning, special attention is paid to the regrowth and development of vegetative shoots, since climbing roses bloom on last year’s growth. At good care at the roses for summer period long shoots grow, up to 2-3.5 m.

They are covered for the winter. in spring next year only prune frozen and frosted shoots and the ends of the shoots to the strong outer bud.

The shoots that survived after overwintering are first spread on the ground so that strong replacement shoots develop at the base of the bush, ensuring flowering of the bush the next year.

After the young replacement shoots reach a length of 50-70 cm, the old shoots on which flowering should occur this year are tied to supports.

In the future, pruning of climbing roses is carried out depending on how these roses bloom, once or twice. These groups of roses differ significantly from each other in the nature of flowering and shoot formation.

Once-flowering plants form flowering branches on last year's shoots. They don't bloom again. To replace faded shoots, the so-called main (basal), these roses form from 3 to 10 restoration (replacement) shoots, which will bloom the next season.

In this case, after flowering, the basal shoots are cut down to the base, like raspberries. Thus, bushes of single-flowering climbing roses should consist of only 3-5 annual and 3-5 biennial flowering shoots.

In repeat-blooming climbing roses, flowering branches of different orders (from 2 to 5) are formed on the main shoots within three years. The flowering of such shoots weakens by the fifth year. Therefore, the main shoots are cut out after the fourth year to the ground.

If many new strong recovery shoots form at the base of these shoots (which usually happens when roses are well cared for), then the main shoots are cut out as in the first group.

For bushes with repeated flowering, it is enough to have from 1 to 3 annual restoration shoots and from 3 to 7 flowering main shoots. Repeatedly blooming roses It is recommended to prune in early spring. The point of pruning is to leave a limited number of the strongest, youngest and longest branches on the bush. If the lashes are too long compared to the support, they need to be trimmed.

It is important to remember that climbing roses bloom on overwintered shoots, which must be preserved for their entire length; only the very tops with underdeveloped buds must be removed.

When cultivated on a high agricultural background, climbing roses can form regeneration shoots in excessive quantities. This greatly thickens the bush, weakens flowering and makes it difficult to shelter for the winter.

Therefore for abundant flowering Climbing roses should be pruned and the number of shoots adjusted.

When pruning varieties from different groups of roses, you need to remember that flower buds they form on different heights axial shoot. Based on this characteristic, climbing roses can be divided into three groups.

1.In plants of the first group Each overwintering bud on last year's axial shoot, with the exception of the 5-10 lowest ones, differentiates into a flower bud. This phenomenon is typical for most varieties from the Vihuriana and Multiflora groups. Therefore, varieties of roses from these groups can be pruned depending on the height of the landscaped object.

2. In plants of the second group , flower buds are formed only in the upper and middle parts of the axial shoot, the lower buds remain vegetative. For varieties of this group "Paul Scarlet Climber", "Glen Dale" and others, high or medium pruning can be used.

3.To the third group includes plants in which only the buds located in the upper part of the axial shoot turn into flowering ones, while the lower and middle ones remain vegetative. These are mainly varieties of roses from the Banks group according to L. Uleyskaya, which require high pruning.

On an adult rose bush, remove as many old canes as new ones appear from the base. For semi-climbing roses from the Cordes and Lambert groups according to L. Uleyskaya, reaching a height of 3 m, high or medium pruning is recommended. With regular low pruning, these plants can take on a bushy form.

Pruning large-flowered varieties requires great attention.

The length of their lashes should be commensurate with the size of the bush. If the bush is very strong, as, for example, in the variety "Climbing Gloria Day", it is necessary to leave long lashes; for shorter bushes they should be shorter.

If the branches of this group of roses are cut very short, then instead of flowering shoots only vegetative shoots will begin to grow. Often varieties of this group do not bloom. To achieve their flowering, you need to shorten the branches a little and tie them horizontally or obliquely.

Proper pruning and careful selection of varieties can ensure almost continuous blooming of roses in your garden during the growing season.

Along with pruning, the garter of climbing roses also plays an important role, which should provide an inclined, horizontal or spiral arrangement of branches, preventing the growth of vegetative shoots and stimulating the development of floral shoots.

Wintering: require shelter.

It is important to remember one thing: between the roses and the shelter (film, roofing felt, etc.) there must be air space on top. Roses die not so much from frost, but from getting wet and damping off during prolonged winter thaws or in the spring, when the covering material becomes compacted and does not allow air to pass through well.

It should be remembered that preparing roses for winter begins long before the onset of frost.

Already at the end of August it is necessary to stop watering and loosening the soil. At this time, it is no longer possible to feed roses with nitrogen, but it is necessary to apply potassium fertilizers to strengthen the shoot tissue.

Roses should be covered for the winter only with the onset of a stable drop in temperature to minus 5-6 °C. Light frosts not only do not harm roses, but even promote better ripening of shoots and harden the plants.

Premature covering leads to plants sprouting and rotting due to lack of air.

Sheltering is carried out in dry weather. Climbing roses are removed from their support, damaged or rotten shoots are cut out and cleared of leaves. After this, the lashes are twisted, tied with twine and pinned to the ground with metal or wooden hooks.

It is advisable to put dry leaves or spruce branches under them. The shoots are covered from above with any covering material: dry leaves, spruce branches, wooden boxes etc.

Reproduction: They propagate well from summer and winter cuttings.

Most easy way- this is a green cutting; most climbing roses give almost 100% rooting.

Green cuttings begin in mid-June and end in early August. Cuttings are cut from flowering or fading shoots with 1-2 internodes. The lower end is made oblique (at an angle of 45°) directly under the kidney, the upper end is made straight away from the kidney. The lower leaves are completely removed, and the rest are cut in half.

The cuttings are planted in a substrate (a mixture of earth and sand or clean sand) in a pot or box to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. The cuttings are covered on top with a glass jar or film and shaded from the sun. Watering is carried out without removing the film. Climbing roses usually root well without the use of growing agents.

If it is known that the variety takes root poorly, then before planting the cuttings are treated with an aqueous solution of heteroauxin (40-45 mg, or 0.5 tablets per 1 liter of water) for 12-15 hours, immersing the tips of the shoots 3 cm in the solution. You can treat with an alcohol solution (50 ml of 96% ethyl alcohol, 50 ml of water and 400 g of heteroauxin) for 5 seconds immediately before planting.

Just not a large number of varieties from the large-flowered group are propagated by budding. It is carried out in August - early September by placing a sleeping eye into the root collar of a one- or two-year-old rose hip.

Pests, diseases: aphids, spider mites, powdery mildew, bark cancer.

The most common types found on climbing roses are:

Powdery mildew caused by the fungus Sphaerotheca pannosa Lev. White spots appear on the leaves, which gradually grow. Powdery mildew develops rapidly in hot and wet weather, usually in late July - early August. Plant growth stops, flowering stops, and plant death may occur.

Coniothirium wersdorffiae Laub - bark cancer, or “burn” of roses. Signs of the disease are detected when the cover is removed in the spring. Initially, red-brown spots form on the bark of the shoots, which, growing, gradually turn black and can envelop the entire shoot in a ring.

The causative agent of the disease is inside the tissue. Ringed shoots must be immediately cut out, including the healthy part of the shoot, and burned. The fungus develops most intensively in the dark under winter shelter roses for the winter, especially with high humidity.

Preventive measures include reducing the dose of nitrogen in the fall, fertilizing with potassium fertilizers to strengthen shoot tissue, timely shelter and ventilation during winter thaws, timely removal of shelter in the spring, pruning and destruction of affected shoots.

Use: arches, gazebos, pyramids, garlands, columns, pergolas, fences, gazebos; for decorating the walls of buildings, balconies. Compositions created from groups of varieties of climbing roses, as well as climbing roses on tall stems, are especially decorative.

The idea of using shrubs and trees as supports for climbing roses is not a human invention, but a way of life for these plants in the wild.

On a large tree, climbing roses appear in all their lush splendor.

Not all trees and shrubs are suitable for use as a support for climbing roses.

Since the rose grows very quickly, the support plant must be quite large and tall.

Do not use plants with intensively growing roots located near the surface of the soil, which strongly compete with rose roots.

Hyacinths and crocuses: what to do with after forcing?

Description of the variety, its positive and negative qualities

One of the most popular roses, “Victoria,” owes its birth to an unknown worker of domestic selection. Unfortunately, it was not possible to accurately determine the time of its creation. Until 1998, the variety was not assigned authorship, until Semko-Junior CJSC bought the right to the patent. Until then, the only official recognition was issued by the State Commission of the Russian Federation in the list of breeding achievements.

When purchasing any variety, we rarely think about what a painstaking and long-term path the creators have to go through in order to obtain a masterpiece of breeding art. The best reward and memory of the work is the popularity of the variety. And although exact date The origin of the Victoria variety is unknown; old-timers remember it from their childhood (Read also article ⇒).

The official name of the rose is “Victoria”, which belongs to the climbing floribunda variety. The variety is not registered in the international classification. Nevertheless, it is passed down from generation to generation and still remains one of the favorite varieties of roses.

Brief description of the Victoria variety:

Coloring blossom	Bright crimson red color
Number of flowers on a shoot	3 - 10 pcs.
Aroma	❀(Not strong, gentle)
Average flower size	7 - 10 cm
Length of shoots in height	2 – 4 m
Average width of bush growth	Up to 1 m
Growing climate zone (USDA)	6
Winter hardiness	❄
Powdery mildew resistance	★★
Black spot resistance	★★★
Rain resistance	☂☂☂
Flowering duration	☀☀
Landing dates	Spring– second, third ten days of April, beginning of May. Autumn - October
Note: ★ minimum, ★★★ – maximum.

Read more about positive properties varieties:

Bright crimson flowers open alternately on the peduncles over a long period of time, replacing one another. On average, there are up to 30 closed and open buds on one shoot. simultaneously. Flowering is one-time, but long-lasting.
Tolerates conditions that other varieties cannot withstand. The rose is resistant to the scorching sun and heavy rain.
Resistance to common rose diseases is approximately average.

TO shortcomings The following features can be attributed:

In the conditions of the fourth zone and colder regions requires shelter for the winter.

Tip #1. Note! Compared to other roses, it has invaluable advantages. If the ground part of the bush freezes due to frost, then in most cases it independently recovers from its own roots and grows shoots over two meters in one summer.

If it is affected by diseases, then it is more likely powdery mildew. It is better to hill up the bush in winter to avoid infection of the root collar. infectious burn.

Caring for roses in different seasons of the year

Work plan

	· At the end of September, beginning of October - moisture-charging irrigation. One large bush requires up to 50 liters of water. · After leaf fall, the rose garden is cleared of all plant debris and burned. · Spray roses and the ground under them with protective agents, for example, iron sulfate. · The shoots are tied into bundles and bent down. Secure with flexible arcs or using pegs and rope. Cover with protective cloth, burlap, spunbond, or plastic film. In severe winters, the structure is covered with an additional layer of snow.

	· After the snow melts, remove the plastic film. · After about 2 weeks, the spruce branches are removed, but the spunbond is left. It protects bushes from burns and recurrent frosts. · The shelter is finally removed at an average daily temperature of + 10 0. · Fertilize, for example, with nitrophoska. · Spray the bushes to prevent fungal diseases. · Starting in May, watering is resumed.
	· Roses are watered. · Guided and secured to the support. · Trim faded flowers. · Apply potash fertilizers.

Description of the variety

The color of Paul Scarlet buds depends on the stage of flowering and varies from bright crimson to dark cherry. The bush is erect. The foliage is shiny, dark green.

Color	in the bud – scarlet-red; when fully bloomed - cherry
Number of flowers per stem	3-15
Aroma	❀
Flower size	7-8 cm
Height	200-300 cm
Width	250 cm
Growing area (USDA)	Zone 5 (Moscow and Moscow region, St. Petersburg and Leningrad Region, Voronezh, Bryansk, Saratov and other regions middle zone Russia)
Winter hardiness	❄❄❄
Powdery mildew resistance	★★
Black spot resistance	★★
Rain resistance	☂☂☂
Flowering period	☀☀
When to plant	April May

Advantages of the Paul's Scarlet variety:

winters well;
quickly increases green mass;
easily tolerates drought;
can grow in poor soils;
flowers are not damaged by rain;
tolerates partial shade.

Features of cultivation

Rose “Paul Scarlet” is not demanding regarding the composition of the soil, but it grows better on loamy, humus-rich, loose, moisture-absorbing soil with a slightly acidic reaction. Seat prepared according to the standard pattern for all climbing roses.

Filling the planting hole	Layer thickness, cm	Ingredients
Drainage	10	Gravel, pebbles, expanded clay, sand
Humus reserve	10-15	Rotted cow dung, humus
Fertile soil layer	30-40	Turf soil, peat, humus, sand, ash

Rose "Paul Scarlet" is quite unpretentious, plant care is minimal:

Rose "Paul Scarlet" is used for vertical gardening both in single plantings and in decorative compositions with other plants.

weekly watering (in dry weather);
weeding and mulching the soil (if necessary);
fertilizing three times per season (I - nitrogen, II - complex, III - phosphorus-potassium fertilizers) (Read also article ⇒);
shelter for the winter;
seasonal pruning.

Tip #1: Nitrogen fertilizers for roses are applied only in the spring and in strictly dosed quantities. For 1 bush, 5-7 kg of rotted cow manure is enough. A rose overfed with nitrogen becomes vulnerable to disease, and flowering occurs later. Autumn feeding nitrogen-containing fertilizers reduces the winter hardiness of the plant.

In early spring, before the buds awaken, sanitary pruning of the overwintered bush is carried out. Frozen, damaged, diseased shoots are cut back to healthy tissue. In the summer, if necessary, formative pruning of the vines is done, and faded and fading brushes are cut off. In autumn, weak, immature and coarsened shoots older than 5-6 years are removed.

Tip #2: To minimize injury to the rose when pruning, the tool must be well sharpened and treated with an antiseptic. Secateurs can be disinfected with a concentrated solution of potassium permanganate, and stem sections can be treated with garden varnish.

Disease resistance of the Paul Scarlet variety is average; prevention of fungal and bacterial infections is necessary, especially in wet weather.

Symptoms of the disease	What is sick?	How to treat	Prevention measures
Brown or brown spots on leaves and stems	Black spot	Remove and burn foliage and shoots from the source of infection	Treat the plant with a solution of Bordeaux mixture
White spots on leaves and shoots	Powdery mildew	Remove and burn affected areas of the plant	Process the bush copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture
Orange seals on the bottom of the sheet plate	Rust	Spray with a solution of Fundazol or Bordeaux mixture	Treat the bush with immunomodulatory drugs and systemic fungicides
Small brown spots that tend to grow	Bacterial cancer	Burn the affected plant	Treat the seedling with a copper or iron preparation

"Paul Scarlet" easily tolerates winter frosts if there is a high-quality dry shelter. The stems are either laid on the ground under covering material, or wrapped with spruce branches and spunbond directly on the support. In both cases, the lashes are tied into one bundle, and the bush is hilled to a height of 30 cm.

Reviews from flower growers about the climbing rose Paul’s Scarlet

Irina: I would not recommend “Paul Scarlet” for framing arches, ceilings, and horizontal structures, because it is difficult to give a clear direction to thick, rigid branches. The older the bush, the more difficult it is to bend the lashes. The variety is more suitable for decoration vertical supports, for example, gazebos, fences, facade walls.

Olga: The exceptional unpretentiousness and vitality of “Paul Scarlet” is captivating. Grows on any soil. Additional watering is only required in very dry weather. Flowers are not afraid of precipitation and look great in almost any conditions. All my care for this rose consists of preventive treatment with fungicides and periodic loosening of the soil in the tree trunk circle. For the winter, I tie the lashes with spruce branches, wrap them with lutrasil and leave them on a support.

Veronica: During the flowering period, the Paul Scarlet rose looks simply gorgeous. There are so many brushes with terry buds that the foliage is practically invisible. It’s a pity that it blooms once, mainly on last year’s stems. This year's shoots produce rare single flowers.

Semyon: Significant disadvantage varieties "Paul Scarlet" - numerous and very sharp thorns. When pruning, tying to supports and preparing for winter, the thorny thick shoots are difficult to deal with. As an alternative, I can recommend the Super Dorothy variety. The flowers of this climbing rose are slightly smaller than those of "Paul Scarlet", but the long, thin and soft shoots lie freely on supports of any configuration. Another advantage of the variety is repeated flowering.

The main mistakes gardeners make when growing Paul’s Scarlet roses

Excess sunlight, like lack of lighting, does not benefit the plant. The rose develops poorly, slows down in growth, and as a result, blooms poorly. It is advisable that the bush be in partial shade during the hottest midday hours. The south-eastern exposure of arbors or hedges is the best location for Paul Scarlet. Under such conditions, the dew on the leaves dries out in a short time, the plant quickly warms up after the cool of the night, and the risk of powdery mildew is reduced.
The rose should be placed near the wall of the house taking into account the location of the roof and the drainage system. Water flowing down during rain rose bush, will lead to rotting of the roots. Conversely, a plant planted close to the wall under a canopy will suffer from a lack of moisture.

Answers to flower growers' questions about the climbing rose Paul's Scarlet

Question No. 1: How to distinguish rootstock shoots from cultivated shoots?

Rosehip shoots appear from the roots, that is, below the graft. Features wild shoots:

leaf size (rose hips are smaller than roses);
the number of blades in a leaf (rose hips have up to 9, roses have 5);
stem color (rose hips – grayish-green, rose – reddish).

Wild growth is removed immediately after emergence. The ground is dug up and the shoot is cut out to the very base of the root.

Question No. 2: After wintering, the bases of the shoots and the ground under the bush were covered with a white coating. What is this disease and how to fight it?

This is white (snow) mold. She dries under sun rays after 1-2 weeks and does not particularly harm the plant. Gray fluffy mold (gray rot) is much more dangerous. Shoots affected by mycelium turn brown and die. Damaged stems should be removed as soon as possible, and the bush should be sprinkled with ash.

What can you tell us about this group of roses? Of course, what distinguishes them from other types of these flowers is the shape of the bush. More precisely, not a bush, but climbing shoots, which in some places can reach up to 17 m in length (Chinese Rosa gigantea). Most have more modest parameters. This is the first and main difference between the varieties of climbing roses blooming in a summer cottage.

Their homeland is Asia (its southeastern part). The first memories of these climbing flowers were recorded in China, Japan, Taiwan and Korea, where in ancient times all such roses were called one word - Vihura. They are considered the basis for the emergence of modern varieties of climbing roses that bloom throughout the season. The stems of almost all plants either hang down or stretch upward. They demand special attention to yourself.

Climbing roses are divided into 7 subgroups:

1. Climbing

The characteristic and main feature of climbing trees is curly shoots. They are created on the basis of parent varieties as a result of bud mutations from other large-flowered bush groups, only the prefix Cl is added to them when designating a garden group. For example, grandiflora (СlGr), hybrid tea (СlНТ), Floribunda (СlF). When cultivars are bred, the shape, aroma and color remain untouched (they are the same as in the parent varieties).

The best varieties climbing roses that bloom all summer:

2. Ramblers

This subgroup unites the most climbing roses that bloom all summer. Winter-hardy varieties are most often chosen by summer residents and gardeners to decorate their homes or architectural elements, to emphasize a certain area and for other purposes. Characteristic signs, which distinguish ramblers from other groups - small, abundant blooming flowers. Behind their lashes of large inflorescences, green leaves are practically not visible. As for the aroma, it is either weakly expressed or may be completely absent.

It should be noted that ramblers are hybrids with respect to the multiflora and vishuran subtypes. They belong to biennial plants. In the first year, a large number of zero shoots are formed, and already in the second year, lateral shoots sprout, forming a large climbing bush.

Ramblers took from these subtypes character traits– flexible and thin shoots, reaching 15 meters in length, grow in an arched manner. It is recommended to cover the base of ramblers for the winter, since flowers appear on last year's shoots.

The best climbing roses (winter-hardy varieties) from the ramblers subgroup:

Dorothy Perkins (Dorothy Perkins). Attractive bushes with small light crimson flowers.
Super Dorothy (Super Dorothy). An improved option, in which the buds have a rich, dark pink hue.
Felicite Perpetue (Felicite Perpetue). Another excellent variety Ramblers of French selection.
Excelsa (Excelsa). The basis of the variety are plants of the Vishurana group. Red-crimson small flowers with a developed structure, have a weak aroma and create indescribable beauty.
Ernst Dechant (Ernst Dechant), White Dorothy, White Dorothy Perkins. These are varieties of white roses, very similar to each other. It is almost impossible to distinguish them.
Fragezeichen (Fragezeichen). Roses with semi-double flowers of lavender-raspberry color.
Crimson Shower (Crimson Shover). They have buds of a rich red hue.
Veilchenblau (Wenchblau). Very beautiful flowers with a lovely aroma. A beautiful bush is formed, often called a purple-lavender cloud.
Wartburg (Wartburg). They belong to the so-called varieties park roses. They have very beautiful and colorful pink buds.

3. Lambert

These flowers have a very interesting history. It should immediately be noted that they come from Germany, where in 1889 the first varieties (Rheingold and Moselblümchen) were bred by the novice breeder Peter Lambert. Thus, he continued the family business and, as it turned out, devoted the rest of his life to it. The first types of flowers were not very popular. But Lambert's next creation created a great sensation among flower growers. The variety was named Kaiserin Auguste Viktoria (Empress Auguste Victoria). From that moment on, he became an authoritative breeder with a worldwide reputation. His collection includes about 100 different varieties of climbing roses. Descriptions of some of them can be found below.

The best varieties of climbing roses from the P. Lambert series:

4.Cordes

These climbing roses (see varieties and photos for them) are quite popular among summer residents and gardeners. They are not grown for commercial purposes, but buying or purchasing seeds or seedlings is not at all a problem. The basis of Kordersii flowers is a hybrid of crossing varieties from the Vishurana group and a wrinkled rose called Max Graf. The length of these shoots beautiful plants does not exceed 2.5 m. Leaves with a glossy, light-reflecting surface of a green hue grow on their strong stems. Small inflorescences with small buds are formed between them, which abundantly cover the branches. The advantage of Cordes roses is frost resistance, continuous flowering and resistance to many ailments.

The best climbing roses from the Cordess group (varieties of permanent flowering):

5. Banks

In 1796, Robert Drummond, a Scotsman by origin, brought the sprouts of this extraordinary flower from China to England. Despite diligent attempts to breed the variety, the plant was absolutely not suited to the cool climate of Britain. As a result, these flowers were forgotten for a while. At the beginning of the twentieth century, a florist from the South-Eastern part of England J. Banks tried to revive the Asian rose, which he successfully did. He named his plant after his daughter Dorothea Banks. Since then, many gardeners have actively begun to grow it.

The shoots of the Banks climbing rose can reach a length of 6 m. There are types with a pronounced aroma, and there are also those that do not smell at all. Semi-double flower petals have a combination of shades (white and yellow), and can also be strictly white or yellow. This is their peculiarity. The buds are egg-shaped. The petals are slightly rounded at the tips. This species has the property of an evergreen plant. Its glossy leaves do not fall off even in winter. Banks roses bloom only once a year.

The best varieties of Banks climbing roses:

6. Vishurana

To this subgroup climbing beauties include plants that are created on the basis of several subspecies (Vishurana, Vihuriana, Vihura). This hybrid varieties with curling properties. The length of the stems can reach 15 m. A very heat-loving and moisture-loving plant. It is recommended to cover the base for the winter.

The buds of the climbing rose Vishurana are small, but cover the shoots abundantly. The leaves have a shiny surface. The aroma is weak or may be absent altogether. The flowers form large inflorescences. The flowering period can last up to 6 weeks. They usually bloom in the first half of summer.

The best varieties of Vishuran climbing roses:

Alberik Barbe (Alberik Barbier).
Koronation.
Glen Dail (Glen Dale).
Albertine (Albertine).
Aelita (Aelita).
Miskhor Stars.
Red Lighthouse.
Maiden's Dreams.

7. Multiflora

The homeland of this subgroup of roses is East Asia. It grows most in China, Japan, and Korea in its natural environment. It was originally wild until breeders began using its sprouts to develop cultivated varieties of climbing roses. Has a strong root system. Its main environment is rocky terrain. Researchers noticed its long shoots at an altitude of 500-2000 m above sea level. The stems do not exceed 3 m in length; on powerful zero shoots, a hard bark of brown or red-green shades is formed. The flowers are odorless but bloom very quickly. A notable property is the formation of bright red fruits, which after flowering give the plants of this subgroup a very attractive appearance and shape. The variety first appeared in Europe in 1868. Officially classified in 1952.

Multiflora - climbing roses, winter-hardy varieties (see photo):