Secrets of making acoustic guitars dimensions material technology. Making an electric guitar

If you have been playing the electric guitar for a long time and want a good new tool but can't afford it, then you've probably wondered " how to make a guitar with your own hands at home?".

Here's what you'll need: material (wood), organic glue (bone, flesh or fish glue) or high-quality carpentry glue, pickups, batteries (if there are elements that require power), saddle, volume controls (and others - at your discretion), graphite aerosol , paint, varnish.

The wood must be dried and free from defects such as cracks and knots. You can order on the Internet specifically for the guitar soundboard and neck, or you can get by budget option: disassemble unnecessary furniture made of strong, dried wood.

The type of wood will affect both acoustic and mechanical properties tool.

Making a fingerboard at home is quite difficult...

The fingerboard is quite difficult to make, so It’s better to order a ready-made one or find a used/broken guitar.

How to Choose an Acoustic Guitar for Beginners

Also to you will be needed manual frezer with a set of cutters, different sheets sandpaper, plastic (acrylic or wood) deck template.

You can choose the shape and dimensions of the deck yourself and make a drawing in a special program, then take it to a company that produces acrylic advertising boxes. You can take the drawings from the finished electric guitar or find them on the Internet.

Guitar pre-processing...

The first step is to process the material. If you ordered new timber, then you can immediately begin work on processing and gluing the deck.

If you are making it from used material, you must first remove the varnish/paint. If you have several thin boards, then you need to glue them together, put them on clamps and wait two to three days until the glue dries.

The workpieces to be glued must be planed with a plane. to make a good, uniform glue line. On the resulting slab you need to fix the template and cut out the deck blank using it.

This can be done using a router using a template or with a stock saw, followed by processing with a router. The rounding of the deck ribs is done manually using sandpaper or a special cutter.

What are the best strings for an acoustic guitar?

Also on the deck you need to cut out cavities for electronics. First you need to outline the exact location of the parts, then carefully cut everything out. The cavities also need to be sanded so that they are even.

Making a guitar neck...

When the deck is ready, you can start making the neck. Making the neck is practically no different from making the soundboard, the only difficulty is to install the anchor in it.

For this you will need to make a longitudinal groove in the neck for the anchor, install it, and glue the fret cover on top. You need to make marks on the fingerboard to install the frets, then carefully make cuts with a thin blade.

The frets are driven into the neck slowly, carefully, at the same depth on all sides and fixed with quick-drying glue.

Once the frets are installed they need to be sanded. They must be at the same height so that the guitar does not “get along”. You can check this by placing a long metal ruler on the frets along the neck.

Painting the guitar...

The next step is painting. Before painting, the guitar must be perfectly smooth and dry, without cracks or scratches, sanded and polished with fine sandpaper.

Guitar tuning - all ways to tune a guitar

It is better to paint with a spray bottle(spray gun). It is necessary to apply several layers of paint, drying thoroughly after each to prevent bubbles from forming. After painting it needs to be varnished.

Please note that if the guitar white, then the varnish should be completely transparent. The varnish is applied gradually in several even layers, or in one relatively thick layer. After drying, the varnish can be sanded and polished to a glass shine.

Now all you have to do is install the electronics correctly, install the pegs, tailpiece, nut and strings. It is important to remember that the varnish dries very slowly and the guitar should not be touched for some time before installing the electronics.

This completes the creation of the electric guitar, and you can enjoy your new instrument!

The idea of ​​starting to make musical instruments comes to many musicians, including guitarists. Of course, it’s hard to expect that the first time you’ll get a masterpiece that will sound great two or three hundred years later. But all great masters started somewhere, so why not try? How to make a guitar with your own hands will be discussed in our article.

What is a guitar made of?

Before you make a guitar with your own hands at home, you need to understand what exactly you will have to do, that is, figure out what this instrument consists of. At first glance, two parts are visible:

• frame;
• vulture

Frame

If you examine the body more closely, it becomes clear that it is not at all hollowed out of whole piece wood, like some other instruments. WITH outside visible:

• back deck– solid or two parts;
• the top soundboard is a plate with a round resonator hole, decorated with a rosette, that is, an ornament;
• shell, which connects both decks;
• stand - a small plate on the top deck;
• the bottom sill is an elevation on a stand.

The stand is used to fasten the strings, and their height above the top deck depends on the lower nut. There are springs inside the housing. These are wooden strips that provide the strength of the body and the necessary vibration. They are:

• transverse;
• fan-shaped.

If you look inside the guitar, you will also see the footer - narrow plates that are glued along center line lower or upper deck. However, not all models have these details. There is a button on the shell so that you can attach a belt and play while standing.

Important! The resonator hole also has another name - voice box.

Vulture

Upon closer examination, it turns out that the neck also consists of several parts:

• heads;
• pens;
• overlays;
• heels;
• sills and frets.

In the upper part there is a head on which the tuning mechanism is placed. Strings, in turn, are attached to it. The cover is divided by metal strips into unequal sections - they are wide at the head, and the closer to the socket, the smaller the distances.

Important! The metal strips are called saddles, the spaces between them are called frets. Some frets have dots or stars on them. Most acoustic guitars have the fifth, seventh, tenth, and twelfth frets marked this way. Sometimes marks are placed not in the central part of the fingerboard, but on top.

The bar also has a heel, with which it is attached to the body. Expensive instruments have a glued neck. For cheap mass-produced instruments, it is secured with a screw. This screw adjusts the distance between the neck and the strings.

What is a guitar made of?

For body and neck used different materials. The body can be made:

• made of wood;
• from plywood;
• made of plastic;
• made of metal.

Tree

Expensive models are made from quality wood, while for different parts different breeds are used.

Important! If you select good material and store the instrument correctly, the guitar will last a very long time, and the more time passes, the better it will sound.

Plywood

You can also see cheap plywood tools in stores. To get a good sound from such an instrument, you need not only skill, but also great luck. As an option for beginners, you can try making a guitar with your own hands from plywood. But we must consider this approach solely as a training stage of assembly for the subsequent production of an instrument from expensive wood.

Important! Plywood decks quickly crack, springs fly off, and the instrument becomes deformed.

Plastic

IN Soviet time The Leningrad factory produced plastic guitars, popularly called “trough”. Some models were made entirely of plastic, while others had a wooden top.

Important! It was believed that plastic is more durable than wood, but this turned out not to be the case.

Metal

Finally, metal guitars can be classified as exotic. They made a strange sound, vaguely reminiscent of a banjo. They were made specifically for tourists, because on a water trip it was a universal household item that, if necessary, could even be used for rowing. Musicians, however, loved such artifacts much less than watermen.

Important! For anyone who is planning to make a guitar that they can play with their own hands, it is better to abandon the exotic and choose something more traditional for their product.

What breeds are suitable?

To make a guitar with your own hands, not just any wood is suitable. In this case, different parts of the body are made from different breeds.

Upper body

Conifers suitable for the top deck:

• resonant spruce;
• cedar;
• pine.

Expensive models use resonant spruce and cedar - classic guitar materials. The workpiece will not be cheap, you can’t get it everywhere - boards required size are not found in every carpentry workshop. However, in online stores you can find required material possible, and even in the form of almost finished fragments, which only remain to be finally processed and put together.

There are several varieties of spruce:

• German;
• Sitka;
• ordinary.

Important! Interesting effect The combination of spruce and cedar also gives. For cheap models, pine is also used, but such an instrument sounds worse.

Bottom and sides

These parts of the guitar are usually made from the same type of wood. It must be hard, so most often they use:

• rosewood;
• maple;
• Red tree.

An instrument with a maple back has a sharper and ringing sound than the other two. But if the material is well dried and processed, only high-class professionals will notice the difference.

Important! Boards can be found not only in the workshop. If, for example, the neighbors threw out an old piano (and this often happens now), do not pass by, but remove everything from it wooden parts, which are suitable for the manufacture of many musical instruments.

Vulture

It does not affect the sound quality as much as the body, although musicians believe that the instrument has no small details. But the acoustic properties in this case recede into the background; the main thing is the ability to keep its shape.

Therefore, to make a guitar with your own hands, or rather its neck, use hard rocks:

• maple.

The overlay, among other things, must be beautiful. Therefore, the most popular materials for its manufacture are:

• ebony;
• rosewood

For decoration

It's a nice instrument to hold in your hands. That's why professional craftsmen They strive in every possible way, trying to give their products a unique look and grace.

Most often, when making a guitar with your own hands, the following are used:

• thread;
• inlay.

The carving on the body is, of course, more than dubious. It reduces durability and greatly affects sound quality. Therefore, only the headstock is decorated with carved ornaments.

As for the inlay, it can be on the neck or on the body - for example, around the rosette. To do this, you can use pieces of wood of different species. Stroke is used to mask seams.

Let's start making a guitar with our own hands

So, have you finally decided, despite the fact that not all materials are suitable? Well, then we have to try. But it is advisable to draw up a work plan in advance. To make a high-quality guitar with your own hands at home, it will be something like this:

1. Select your guitar type.
2. Find a suitable drawing.
3. Transfer it to the tree of the selected species.
4. Study the technological process.
5. Find and prepare a room.
6. Prepare your tools.

Drawing

There is no point in developing a drawing on your own - a person taking up the matter for the first time is unlikely to cope with such a task. But there are many books on making musical instruments - there you will also find the necessary drawings. Now this stage has been greatly simplified, because to search you will need only two things - a computer with Internet access and a printer on which you can print patterns. As a last resort, you can take a finished guitar and simply trace it.

Technology

As for technology, you immediately need to think about how you will bend some wooden parts. This is the most crucial moment. An electric heater will help you a lot.

Room

This is very important point! And it's not just about comfort. Materials needed special conditions. The room should be:

• warm, but not hot;
• with good lighting;
• with good ventilation;
• be sure to be dry.

Important! Humidity in the workshop should not exceed 50%.

Choosing a board

If you decide to make the blanks yourself rather than buy them from a workshop, you first need to choose a board. Regardless of what type of wood you prefer:

• the future deck should be free of knots;
• the fibers should run parallel and not make sharp bends.

It is very good when you have the opportunity to look at many boards. If you like several, tap them and listen. You should choose the one whose sound you like best.

Important! Along with the blanks, in order to make a guitar with your own hands, you need to buy strings and a tuning machine.

Preparing the tools

Electrical and hand tools It's better to prepare it right away. You need:

• jigsaw;
• hand jigsaw;
• electric drill;
• Sander;
• milling machine;
• compressor unit;
• spray gun;
• jars of varnish;
• plane;
• sherhebel;
• skobel;
• large clamps;
• pliers;
• wire cutters;
• hammer;
• crosshead screwdriver;
• sharp knife;
• files.

Important! Why do you need two jigsaws at once - manual and electric? For different types works You will use a jigsaw to cut out parts, but for cuts on the fretboard, as well as for other delicate work, a manual one is more suitable.

A novice guitar maker may not know the names of different carpentry tools, but he will need several planes - for rough and fine processing.

We complete the tool

A jigsaw will not work without a file, nor will a sanding machine without belts. Therefore, take care of the components immediately. You need:

• wide and narrow files for a jigsaw: the first - for straight cuts, the second - for contours;
• belts with different grains for grinder– for rough grinding, for eliminating scratches, for fine processing;
• straight and edge molding cutters for a milling machine;
• metal drills 3, 6 and 9 mm;
• wood drills 12, 19, 22, 26 mm;
• concrete drill 8 mm.

First stage

So, you have the boards, you have chosen the type of guitar and even printed out the drawing. It's time to start cutting. You need to start by gluing the body, and the first thing is to fit the two boards for the lower deck so that they turn into one. There are several ways to do this.

Option 1:

1. Connect the pieces by clamping them into a “sandwich” clamp.
2. Treat the surfaces with a plane as if you had one plane, not two.
3. Glue it together.

Option 2:

1. Clamp the pieces with clamps to form a shield.
2. Go along the joint with a milling machine.
3. Glue it together.

Option 3:

1. Process each piece separately.
2. Glue them together.

Important! The next step is to cut the workpiece along the contour with a jigsaw. And here it is very important to make sure that there are no knots.

Second phase

Glue the footer and springs to the bottom deck. The footer runs strictly axially, the three springs are strictly at right angles to it. It turns out something like a “chest” with a spine and three ribs.

Top deck

It is better if it is made of a solid board rather than a composite one. Although some craftsmen prefer a different option and make the upper deck in the same way as the lower one. But when the strings are already stretched, tension develops in the upper part, and the seam can quickly burst.

You need to mark the outlet. Its center is at the narrowest point of the guitar. A resonator hole is cut out in the middle of the socket. WITH inside The top deck also has springs. It's time to glue them.

Shell

Perhaps the most complex parts are the shells. You need them:

• cut out;
• cut out;
• bend;
• stick.

And if there are usually no problems with cutting and initial processing - they, just like all other parts, are trimmed with several planes and sanded with sandpaper, then some difficulties may arise in giving the wood the desired shape. That's why:

1. Wet the workpiece well with warm water.
2. Place it in a warm place for 10-15 minutes.
3. Heat the part to a temperature slightly above 100ºС.
4. Bend it to shape.
5. Let cool - the workpiece will retain its bend.

Vulture

Glue the heel and the handle of the neck. This will not be a problem, the main thing is that the connection is strong.

Important! There is no need to cut a groove on the body in advance; this can be done later, when the time comes to assemble all the parts together.

But you need to decide on the head right away. She may be:

• straight;
• inclined.

Oddly enough, the second option is simpler:

• If you are making a straight head, you will need more retainers, otherwise the strings simply will not press against the nut.

Important! The direct version is made together with a handle, from the same piece of wood.

• In an inclined position, you can do two things. If you don’t need to save wood, cut the neck in one piece from a whole piece. But you can glue it together from two or even three parts. There are companies that make composite necks - from two or three longitudinal layers.

Important! The inclination should not exceed 17º.

Kernel

An anchor rod is glued into the neck. It gives the part the necessary bend and increases strength. To make a guitar with your own hands at home, the rod can be glued in two ways:

• under the lining, that is, in the upper part;
• With back side, covering with a decorative plate.

Important! A channel is made for the rod along the entire length of the neck.

Assembly

When all the parts are prepared, that is, cut, sanded and equipped with all the necessary details, you can begin assembly.

Important! It is best to glue with casein glue, sometimes fish glue.

Operating procedure:

1. Glue the shells into one piece.
2. Place them on the lower deck.
3. Glue the top deck on top.
4. Dry the entire structure thoroughly - it is necessary to clamp it properly.
5. Mark and cut out the notch for the neck.
6. Glue in the neck.

Important! After this, all that remains is to coat the guitar with varnish, make inlays and stretch the strings. As for the stand, it can be glued both before assembly and after.

Now you have a complete understanding of how to make a guitar with your own hands at home. We hope that this technology did not seem too complicated to you, or, even if it did, your desire turned out to be stronger than fear do something wrong, and you did a great job!

Guitar sides are curved thin plates or slats of wood. There are, of course, plywood shells or composite shells, i.e. consisting of two layers. But the article will talk about how to bend solid shells for a guitar using the method of soaking and heating.

The blanks for the shells are two wooden plates 2 to 2.5 mm thick, the width and length naturally follows from the dimensions of the guitar you want to make. Add 30 mm to the length, 5-10 mm to the width for fire safety. For a classical guitar, you get something similar to 760*110*2.5 mm. The blanks are usually of equal thickness.

What is bending based on?

The fact is that when wet workpieces are heated, the wood begins to bend and, after cooling and drying, retains its given shape. The operation requires the manufacture of devices. The devices differ from master to master, but one principle remains - there must be a piece on which they heat and bend, and another one on which the shells are fixed.

Guitar-building monsters may have it universal installation but I want to tell you how to minimal costs you can perform this sacrament.

First adaptation- this is a metallic something that has working part, which is a roundness with a radius no greater than the bend radius at the waist of your future guitar.

This working part should heat up well so that when touched, the moisture from the wood begins to boil away, but the wood does not char. Metal surface should not stain the wood with its oxides.

Universal device with heating pad

The picture shows universal device both for bending and for drying, but it is quite difficult to manufacture.

The operating principle of such a device is the repositioning of shells with flexible heating element(you can see something red with a ponytail sticking out to the left). On our forum Pablo uses this technology. The result is perfect.

In short. A sandwich is formed from flexible metal plates with a flexible heating element. To protect against slight burning, paper is placed between the element and the shell. When flat, the package warms up, the wood acquires the ability to bend and the entire package bends into shape. Look for nuances on the forum.

Simple heated form

We only need a template. You need to make three presses: at the waist and at the edges. The walls can also be made of thick plywood or fiberboard.

Scheme: cut out two walls from 10 mm plywood (take into account the thickness of the shells, the contour of the dryer is the inner surface of the shells, and not the outer contour of the guitar) and cover the end with a metal sheet. The fixture can be for two halves of the shell at once, or there can be two different ones for each of the halves of the shell. After fixing the workpiece to the fixture, the working surface of the dryer must be warmed up for some time.

There is such an effect as transverse bending of the shells when drying in open form. The reason is that the wood bends towards the surface that dries harder. Treatment: application of external flexible metal sheet, lacing on the outside. Not aggressive drying. In fact, after cooling, the tree loses its ability to bend, i.e. While still wet, you can put it in what we call a rim and the shells will dry in shape, but inside out.

Bending process, one of the options

Immerse the workpieces in water for 5 hours, just drown them in the bathtub. Just don’t leave them floating, otherwise the surfaces of the wood will absorb water unevenly and the shells will bend.

I start bending from the waist. Mark the place of maximum deflection at the waist and place it on a heated bend. Water that has been absorbed into the wood and is on the surface boils. Almost under the weight of your hands and slight tension, as the radius increases, the workpiece bends.

Constantly crawl on the metal with the area you are bending, do not stand in one place, first warm up the area, then bend. When you apply a flat workpiece to a radius, the contact area is small, so constant movement is necessary. Boiling water with a brush to add “give it to the park” is also necessary. Check the template. It is better to bend the waist very precisely. As you bend the rest of the shell, the waist can gradually unbend just like everything else. You can, after you bend your waist, hold it under the stream cold water In order for the material to cool, extension clearly slows down.

In the top photo you see the process of bending the shells additionally using a flexible metal plate. This plate allows you to bend the tree more evenly, bending it along the radius, rather than breaking it. This technique allows you to work with shells in places with defects, some dangerous inhomogeneities or a specific texture, preventing breakage. The plate also makes it difficult for moisture to evaporate from the outside, namely, it should not dry out much, since when bent it stretches and should be plastic.

Essentially, you need to bend the wood to the point where it doesn't take much force to get the material to fit into the shape. In the same way, bend the rest even more, paying attention to warming it up as much as possible. large areas and do not bend in any one place, otherwise the product will turn out angular. If it's bent, turn it over and straighten it.

At the edges and around knots or waves, use a stick to apply pressure to the very edge of the shell.

You can stop at the moment when, with a little pressure on the dryer, the shell lies exactly on the surface. Secure it in the dryer in three places: at the waist and along the edges, no more needed. Heat the dryer for an hour, an hour and a half, then leave it to dry for several days. When you remove the workpiece from the dryer, the fold of the edges from the mold should not exceed a centimeter.

Bending without installation, i.e. This is what it looks like. Of course, I can’t say that this is completely all. I show off a little, boldly pressing on the tree, but the Indian allows this, be careful yourself. I myself am much more careful on an unfamiliar tree. We still need to spend some time on final refinement, but this is no longer significant. All that remains behind the scenes is the perfect fit - nothing interesting, they attached it to the template and folded it on the bend.

I bend Indian rosewood 3.0 mm thick. I soaked it for about five hours before bending.

Video on our YouTube channel. Subscribe!

All photos from the article

Is it possible to make a guitar out of plywood? This is a frequently asked question. And here there will definitely be a positive answer, since it is from this material that the soundboards of musical instruments are most often made.

But the choice of material is not so simple - the problem is that the resonance created by one or another type of wood will be different, and the volume and timbre of the sound of a musical instrument depends on this. Let's try to figure out what material is best to use and how to do it, and in addition, you will find a video in this article.

Soundboard string instruments

Types of execution

Note. Classical guitars are classified by the material from which they are made.
That is, it depends on.
In addition, veneering decks with valuable wood veneer has become popular in our time.

Three types of classical instruments:

1. All parts - bottom, shell and deck made of plywood.
2. Plywood bottom and sides, solid spruce or cedar top and bottom.
3. All parts are made from solid wood plates.

Type 1:

• such an instrument, perhaps, belongs to the classics with some stretch, since here the minimum quality of resonance is obtained in comparison with solid wood;
• in most cases, it is used as an instrument for teaching, or for accompaniment, since such a guitar is very convenient to take on hikes due to its light weight;
• in addition, this produces a fairly durable body and the price is the lowest among its analogues (it can also be a do-it-yourself balalaika made of plywood);
• Often the problem with this type of product lies in the manufacturer’s careless approach to the budget option.

Type 2:

• here, during manufacturing, the instructions imply that only the upper deck (and occasionally the lower one) is made from solid wood;
• the veneering of the bottom and sides is often made of, although it can also be made of spruce;
• in most cases, an excellent sound is achieved here, which can sometimes be even better than that of an average guitar made entirely of solid wood;
• such musical instrument great for primary school classical game, and is also used by bards, but not for campaigns, but for concert halls.

Type 3:

• this option is considered the best for the classic style;
• are mainly used valuable species wood and the more expensive they are, the better the sound, but this is also determined by the class of the master manufacturer.

Dependence of quality on veneer

Note. Whatever veneer the plywood is made from, in any case it must be elite, highest quality E.
No natural defects (branches of any size, rot) or manufacturing defects (cracks, delamination) are allowed here.

In most cases, if you want to make your own guitar or maybe are looking for how to make a balalaika from plywood, you will choose spruce. The fact is that here the vibrations do not damp out in the soundboard due to friction, thanks to the suitable density of the wood (minimal friction).

In addition, the range of frequencies reproduced by strings is quite wide. However, this is better indicated by the indicators in comparative characteristics which we offer you in the tables below.

Modulus of elasticity, density and constants

Spruce veneer derivative table

Gluing the deck

Note. We will only figure out how to assemble the soundboard, and the neck, with nuts and pegs, as well as the stand with the nut, we use a factory one, from an old broken instrument.
But this is only possible if the neck is level.

So, we will use premium grade 3mm spruce veneer plywood. In order to avoid problems with the tuning of the instrument, which will happen if you incorrectly calculate the distance from the upper (on the fingerboard) to the lower (on the soundboard) nut, we will use the HOHNER parameters (others are possible).

First, let's determine the parameters of the upper and lower deck:

• length – 480 mm;
• width at the top – 280 mm;
• bottom screen – 370 mm;
• waist - 235 mm;
• from top to waist axis – 185 mm;
• shell width – 90 mm;
• socket diameter – 87 mm;
• from top to socket – 15 mm.

According to the dimensions indicated above, we very carefully cut out two decks and shells with a jigsaw. But there is one nuance here - the fact is that the plywood breaks when cutting and the edge ends up with chips, which, naturally, will affect the quality of the work.

To avoid such a defect, you need to cut the line with a shoe knife or a regular sharpener from hacksaw blade to a depth of 1.5 mm (slightly thicker than veneer), and it is best to do this on both sides - chips on the wrong side are also not needed.

In this article we will look at making an acoustic guitar. This guitar was made by a man who not only did not know how to play the instrument, but also had minimal experience in woodworking. The master decided to make the instrument after watching

All work on the manufacture of the instrument took about 300 hours. The cost of a guitar, depending on the material, is from 200 to 1000 euros. It's certainly more expensive than a store-bought guitar. entry level, but the satisfaction of playing a hand-made instrument is worth it. Moreover, according to musicians, the guitar sounds better than industrial models.
To make the guitar, the master used the following

Tools and materials:
-Cycle (scraper);
- Chisels;
-Plane;
-Hand drill;
-Hacksaw;
-Band saw machine;
-Files;
-Clamps;
-A printer;
-Computer;
-Ruler;
-Pencil;
- Mallet;
-Glue;
-Scissors;
-Vise;
-Making tape;
-Gas-burner;
-Hammer;
-Screwdriver;
-Dremel;
-Sandpaper;
-Polishing;
-Water-based coating;
- Spruce (top);
-Cherry (back and sides);
-Ebony wood (overlay, stand);
-Maple (neck);
- Pegs;
-Strings;
- Thresholds;
-Frets;
-Anchor rod;

Step one: drawing
To make the instrument, the master printed a 1:1 drawing of the guitar on paper. You can download the drawing.

Step Two: Neck Angle
First, the master makes a blank for the fingerboard. When making it, it is important to pay attention to the angle between the head and neck of the neck. For most modern guitars the angle is 15 - 17°.

He cuts the head and neck at the desired angle, and then glues them together. Glues a block to the neck, which will later become the heel of the bar.

Step three: rod
A truss rod is a metal rod or structure that is installed in the body of the fingerboard to compensate for the tension of the strings. You can make an anchor rod yourself, or you can buy it as a DIYer.

The master draws a line along the neck of the neck in the middle. Then, along the line, he hollows out a recess with a depth of rod diameter + 5 mm. Installs the rod. Covers the groove with wood.

Step Four: Fingerboard
Cuts out and installs the cover plate on the head.

Step Five: Trimming the Neck
Trims off the excess part of the neck and processes it with a scraper.

Step six: heel
Treats the heel of the bar. Trims off excess wood and scrapes the surface.

Step seven: overlay
The master makes the fretboard from black ebony wood. Ebony is a hard wood and is ideal for overlays. Cuts the trim to size. Then he marks the places where the frets will be installed. Makes grooves for frets.

Step Eight: Gluing the Fingerboard
Next, the master glues the fingerboard to the fingerboard. To do this, he first places the fingerboard on the fingerboard (the edge of the fingerboard should be flush with the edge of the truss rod) and clamps it with clamps. Then drills two through holes. The master installs pins into the holes. Removes the cover, applies glue and installs the cover in place. The pins will prevent it from moving. Presses the cover with clamps. After gluing the parts, the pins are removed and the holes are closed with dowels.

Step nine: deck
Next you need to make the upper and lower deck.
The deck is made of two panels. Draws the shape of the deck on the panels. Treats the place where the two halves are glued so that they fit tightly to each other. Glues them together. After gluing, he cuts out the shape of the deck.

Now you need to process the surface of the deck and bring its thickness to 2.7 mm (for the top deck) and 2.4 mm (for the bottom deck). The master carried out the processing manually using sandpaper attached to a block.

Step ten: socket
Next, you need to make a resonant hole (socket) in the top deck. First the master makes decorative overlay for socket. Then selects a layer of wood according to the diameter of the lining. Glues the overlay and cuts a hole in the deck.

Step eleven: strengthening the top deck
To strengthen the top deck, the craftsman glues stiffening ribs made of spruce to its inner deck.

Step twelve: shell
First, the craftsman processed the panels for the shell. Trimmed to the desired length and width. Removed the excess layer of wood until required thickness. Then soaked the panel in 60°C water for 30 minutes. The master bent the shell on a heated pipe gas burner. To check the radii, he made a template from plywood. After giving the desired shape, the shell is clamped with clamps and dries naturally.

Step thirteen: strengthening the bottom deck
While the shell was drying, the master, similarly to the upper one, strengthened the lower deck.

Step Fourteen: Installing Frets
Next, the master installs the frets. The frets are glued on with epoxy glue mixed with ebony dust. After the glue has hardened, the space between the frets is sealed with tape and the frets are processed using a file. The purpose of processing is to align the frets in height and top plane. For processing it is better to use a wide, long file.