Technical characteristics of cameras. Main characteristics of digital cameras
The topic of choosing a camera has probably always been and will be relevant. Time passes, technology changes, old materials written on this topic are hopelessly outdated. General principles remain unchanged but great amount nuance makes us look differently at the problem of choice. Purpose of the article What is the best camera- dot the i when buying a digital camera, taking into account the current situation on the market. The article is aimed primarily at novice amateur photographers, but I am sure the article will be useful for experienced users as well.
How to start choosing the "best" camera?
First of all, you must define the range of tasks for which the camera will be used. Tasks can be completely different and you need to come to terms with the fact that an absolutely universal camera simply does not exist. There are only those cameras that are suitable for solving certain tasks or not. For example, to go to a picnic with friends, it is not at all necessary to carry a professional DSLR there (although there are enthusiasts), an inexpensive soap dish or even a smartphone is quite enough - after all, photos from such events, as a rule, do not go beyond social networks and home photo albums. In this case the best camera there will be one that is always at hand.
For professional purposes, the technical requirements vary greatly depending on the genre of photography. To shoot a reportage, you need a high speed of continuous shooting and the ability to take pictures handheld in low light, for a landscape - maximum clarity and depth of colors, for a portrait - high-quality reproduction of skin color and the ability to get a beautiful background blur, for macro photography - the ability to focus on a very close object, and so on. Naturally, all these possibilities cannot be realized in one camera with a single lens. So the choice better option cameras are always a compromise between the capabilities of technology, its size, ease of use and price.
Classes of digital cameras
One of the main criteria by which cameras are divided into different classes is physical size of the matrix... It is not measured in megapixels, but in millimeters (or inches). It is this parameter that has a decisive influence on the quality of photographs - color rendition, noise level, dynamic range. Traditionally, it was believed that a large matrix for DSLRs and mirrorless cameras is good, for soap dishes a small matrix is bad. Now this division is very arbitrary, since many compact cameras have matrices comparable in size to amateur DSLRs and mirrorless cameras.
Conventionally, digital cameras can be divided into several classes.
Entry-level amateur cameras
The vast majority of digital cameras worth about 20 thousand rubles fall under this category. The electronic filling of all these devices is almost always comparable in its characteristics, the difference in the lens and additional functions often not directly related to photography.
The characteristics of compact cameras "on paper" can look very convincing - more than 20 megapixels, 20-30x zoom, ISO sensitivity range like a professional DSLR, a bunch of all sorts of chips and gadgets - Wi-Fi, GPS, NCP, FullHD, 4K and etc. But in reality, everything is not so rosy. The main trouble with these devices is that their characteristics are fully manifested only in "greenhouse" conditions, for example, on the street with good lighting... As soon as the sun goes behind a cloud, the quality of photos is noticeably reduced, and if we try to shoot in a semi-dark room, we will see a quiet horror in the form of digital noise (ripples in the pictures), distorted colors and reduced detail.
Cameras with small matrices do not know how to blur the background, which makes the picture look flat, and it is difficult to achieve volume transfer on it. Sometimes there is a special mode in soap dishes " blurred background", which programmatically determines the foreground and background objects and adds artificial blur to the background. But like everything else in software, this mode does not always do it efficiently and beautifully.
A soap dish will be the best choice if you do not set yourself creative tasks - you just buy a "photo registrar", which is always at hand. In this case, it is better to prefer a camera with an increased optical zoom ratio in order to have a more or less versatile tool. There is no point in buying the cheapest digital compacts with 2-3x zoom, since they have no advantages over smartphones. Soap trays with 5-10x zoom are still sold at the very least, but there is nothing corny to advise among them.
If you really need a compact camera with a really good zoom, then you should understand that if the size is not the most compact, it will have the same "soapy" quality of photos, because the matrix is the same as in simple models.
Another scourge of superzoom compacts is low battery life. To minimize the dimensions, the manufacturer supplies the camera with a compact battery of small capacity, from which the lens mechanics, and image stabilization, and the flash, and, in fact, the rest of the electronic filling, must work. With a small number of "on / off" cycles, 400-500 photos can really be taken in a short period of time, but if you turn on the camera before each shot and then turn it off, then the best you can count on is 200 frames per battery charge. The only plus of these cameras is their versatility.
To decide to buy a device with a "superzoom", you need to have good reasons and firm confidence that you need exactly 50-60x zoom. The topic of choosing a superzoom has been removed. If speak about the best manufacturer soap trays, then in this niche there is no big difference between them. Choose a camera with 10-20x zoom from Sony, Nikon, Panasonic, Canon, Olympus. The quality of their photos will be the same, the only difference is in appearance.
Widget from SocialMartSome cameras entry level have a full set of manual settings. This is primarily aimed at those amateur photographers who want to learn how to photograph, however, the value of manual adjustments in such cameras is often greatly exaggerated. The presence of the programmed exposure mode (P), as a rule, covers 99% of the needs of the amateur photographer - verified by our own experience.
If you want to do fine art photography, I highly recommend not messing with "small-sensor" cameras. The picture quality will be acceptable only outdoors in daylight. As the lighting conditions deteriorate, the quality of photos will deteriorate rapidly. Photos from these devices are difficult to process in Photoshop, because even with minor manipulations with brightness, contrast, saturation, artifacts begin to appear - color distortion, increased noise level, "steps" on smooth color transitions.
Cameras for advanced hobbyists
This niche is the most diverse, it contains at least three subgroups, to one degree or another, competing with each other in their capabilities.
"Top Soap Dishes"
These are compact devices with an oversized matrix and non-replaceable optics. According to their declared characteristics, they seem to be inferior to amateur entry-level devices (see above) - they have fewer megapixels, zoom magnification rarely exceeds 3-5 times, sometimes they have worse video capabilities, but they do their job more honestly and of better quality - and namely, they provide better detail and color rendering than devices primary class... All this happens thanks to a larger sensor and a higher quality lens.
Among the top compacts, in my opinion, Sony and Panasonic are the most successful, but there is interesting options from Canon, Nikon and other manufacturers.
Widget from SocialMartAnother advantage of the "top" compacts (as well as all the groups listed below) is the ability to shoot in RAW format. What is RAW, we will briefly analyze a little later, but for now, just take my word for it - this is a very useful feature, for which you can sacrifice zoom ratio, rotary / touch screen, not to mention "fashionable chips" such as Wi-Fi, GPS, etc. .P.
"Top" compacts are great for taking pictures outdoors during the day, indoors with them you can also achieve acceptable photo quality. The merit of everything is a higher-quality matrix of an increased size (from 1 / 1.7 to 1 inch) - the larger, the better, but also more expensive.
Almost all compacts in this class can shoot in RAW. The presence of the RAW format opens up great possibilities for extracting photos to an acceptable level of quality. The only limitation is that most devices in this niche are not able to provide a beautiful and powerful background blur (bokeh) where it is needed (for example, in a portrait or when shooting close-ups). To "make bokeh" in photographs, you need a camera with an even larger matrix and a fast lens. More detailed information about choosing an entry-level or advanced-level soap dish, see the article Best Compact Cameras
Mirrorless
Mirrorless cameras are essentially the same "top" compacts, only with interchangeable lenses. The main advantage of mirrorless cameras is their "consistency". In fact, this is a constructor in which the "carcass" acts as a basic element and you can hang a lot of interesting things on it. Another question, this "interesting" costs extra money, and often its cost is many times higher than the cost of a carcass :)
The matrix of mirrorless cameras is several times larger than that of amateur compact devices - from 4/3 "(Micro 4/3) to" full frame "(36 * 24 mm). great advantages in the form of a large margin of light sensitivity, better color rendering and more freedom when working with depth of field. Where hobbyist soap boxes turn a picture into a mess of pixels, mirrorless cameras provide quite acceptable image quality. Even greater advantages are gained by those who attach a fast lens with a fixed focal length, for example, 25mm / 1.4, 50mm / 1.8, to the carcass - with them, shooting indoors turns from torment into pleasure. The whale lens does not differ in high aperture ratio and in some cases it is healthy and limits the possibilities of using the camera.
If we talk about manufacturers, I would recommend first of all to look towards Sony, Panasonic, Olympus, Fujifilm. These manufacturers entered the "mirrorless" niche earlier than others and, therefore, they have a wider choice of additional lenses and accessories than those of the "catching up" - Canon and Nikon.
Widget from SocialMartA modern mirrorless camera is a fast, reliable and functional device that is not inferior in image quality and performance to DSLR cameras (and in some ways even surpasses them), and at the same time is much lighter and more compact. The main disadvantage of most mirrorless cameras is that in the pursuit of compactness, many physical controls (buttons, wheels) are often replaced with software (menu items). Since the functionality of mirrorless cameras is very high, the menu becomes multi-level and complex - this makes life difficult for a photographer if you need to photograph something in non-standard conditions, when standard settings and presets cannot provide correct result... But this is more the exception than the rule. In my opinion, if you need a device "for every day", a mirrorless camera will be the most practical solution.
With a Canon EOS 5D DSLR and Olympus E-PM2 mirrorless, I prefer the latter for most travel and light walks, as well as for home amateur photography. The quality of the Olympus images suits me personally, especially if the whale lens is changed to a fast prime. This is despite the fact that the E-PM2 model belongs to the most budgetary class of mirrorless cameras. The mirrorless camera does an excellent job with landscape photography - color rendition, dynamic range at a quite decent level.
SLR Cameras
Mirrors- devices in which a shutter with a movable or fixed mirror is used, through which the picture that the lens sees is projected into the viewfinder. This design is of advanced age, nevertheless, it has very successfully taken root in the digital world.
In terms of image quality, DSLRs have no advantages over mirrorless cameras, since they have the same matrices, however, DSLR cameras have their own advantages: the ability to use fast phase detection autofocus (although modern mirrorless cameras have also learned to use it), low power consumption in standard mode (when shooting through viewfinder, not across the screen). Another advantage of DSLRs is the large number of accessories available for sale (including on the secondary market) are truly enormous. Prices for DSLR lenses are generally lower than comparable mirrorless lenses (keep this in mind if you plan to grow and develop).
DSLRs have taken root in the field of professional photography - for professional photographers, it is important not only the number of functions of the camera, but also the ease of access to them (it's easier to press a button than to climb the menu every time!). And the autofocus of advanced DSLRs in difficult conditions is faster and more accurate than that of mirrorless cameras. The main disadvantage of a DSLR is its size and weight, although some models are quite compact and comparable in size to top compacts (for example, Canon ESO 100D). If this drawback is not critical, buying a DSLR is fully justified, otherwise it is better to look towards mirrorless cameras.
Canon and Nikon traditionally share the palm among DSLR manufacturers, I recommend considering these manufacturers first. Not because Sony and Pentax DSLRs are bad - not at all! The question is, over time, you will want to buy a new lens for your camera. If you have Canon or Nikon, you can buy a lens at any photo store (after finding out where it is cheaper) or used on Avito. Sony's situation is worse - optics, in principle, are on sale, but the range is smaller and prices may be higher. Pentax is a separate song! The devices themselves are very interesting, but in order to find the necessary optics for them on sale, you need to try very hard.
Widget from SocialMartDSLRs are the record holders for battery life, since the matrix "turns on" only when the shutter is opened. For other classes of cameras, the matrix always works to transfer the image to the screen. DSLRs also have a LiveView mode, in which the camera works like a "soap dish" and shows the picture not in the viewfinder, but on the screen. In this case, energy consumption, respectively, increases.
Cameras for the hobbyist and professional
This niche is also very diverse. home characteristic feature of these devices - the presence of some unique opportunities for which people are willing to pay 2, 3 and even 10 times more than for middle class technology. Everyone's requests are different - someone needs a full-frame sensor (mostly professional portrait painters, landscape painters, wedding photographers), someone needs an image component (most often, wealthy people, for whom the main criterion in choosing is "to make the camera pleasant to hold in the hands "- it is for them that compact stylish" fashion "devices are created).
Full-frame cameras provide the most the best quality images, therefore they are very popular among professional photographers and photo-advanced amateurs. If earlier this niche was dominated by Canon and Nikon DSLRs, now mirrorless cameras are starting to penetrate into it. Sony Alpha A7 is the first full-frame mirrorless camera for a reasonable price for a full frame. "Vintage" Leica is a fashion camera "for the rich", nevertheless, it has a full-frame sensor and quite good photographic capabilities.
The screenshot was taken when the dollar was worth 33 rubles :) Now the cost of such a Leica is from 600 thousand rubles. I will modestly keep silent about the practicality of such an acquisition, for the price of one Leica M carcass, you can buy a professional Canon or Nikon DSLR with a professional lens (or even several).
If you are aiming for a full frame, keep in mind that its capabilities are fully realized only with high-quality optics, which can cost comparable to a camera, and sometimes much more. Buying a full frame for amateur home photography is not the most practical investment of money. If you are a beginner, you better buy a simpler technique, and invest the difference in price in teaching photography. If you have some photographic experience and desire to grow above yourself, a full-frame camera is a great tool in your hands!
Added on 05/15/2018
Recently, one of the readers made a comment to me that I did not consider another category in this article professional technique- medium format cameras. I must say right away that I am a little far from this topic and have only superficial knowledge about this technique. Medium format cameras have a matrix on average 1.5 times larger than the "full frame", their own park of optics and additional equipment... The cost of a full-fledged set for shooting in "medium format" can exceed the cost of a new foreign car, so it is no wonder that the demand for this equipment, even in a professional niche, is small compared to the same full-frame DSLRs.
Shooting in "medium format" is characterized by slowness, using long exposures and strongly (by "cropped" standards) clamped apertures. The reward for this will be images with colossal detail (40-50 megapixels and more), perfect reproduction of perspective (since 50 mm in medium format is a very wide-angle lens), and if you want to blur the background, then you can do wonders.
Conclusion. Which camera is suitable for whom?
So, it's time to draw the line under all of the above. Let's try to summarize the most typical options in a table. The options are "basic", depending on your preferences, they can be combined with each other. The following table lists approximate camera models that will fit this role. Sometimes I have denoted entire families of cameras. My goal was not to list everything that fits - just to indicate the class of equipment, among which you need to look for options.
| What will you photograph? | A good choice | A very good choice! | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | I like to take pictures of everything, I post pictures of Vkontakt. Art photography is not interesting. I am loyal to quality. | A good smartphone :) Not necessarily an iPhone. Samsung and top-end Chinese smartphones have very good cameras! | An inexpensive soap dish with a 1 / 2.3 "matrix with a zoom of 10-20x, absolutely any one will do, or an all-weather waterproof soap dish - strong, tenacious, not afraid of anything. If it breaks, it's not a pity. |
| 2 | I want the device to be always at hand, to shoot well on the machine, but so that you can indulge in manual settings. I love light walks. I want to learn to photograph! | Top compact with a matrix size of 1 " Sony RX100(Mark * - depending on the budget), Canon G * x | An entry-level mirrorless camera - it is often cheaper than top-end compacts, in the standard configuration it can be inferior to top-end soap boxes, but it gives more growth opportunities - interchangeable optics, an external flash, a microphone - all this can be purchased as needed. Olympus E-PL8, E-PL9 |
| 3 | A camera for home, for a family, allowing you to take high-quality indoor photos and video | Entry-level mirrorless camera with a kit and additional "portrait" lens and an external flash (if there is somewhere to connect it) Canon EOS 2000D, Nikon D3xxx | DSLR or mid-range mirrorless camera with swivel screen, whale and additional "portrait" lens and external flash Canon EOS 800D, Nikon D5xxx |
| 4 | Travel camera, mainly for landscapes | For light walks not far from home - a "top" soap dish or an amateur mirrorless camera with a whale lens Olympus E-PL8 | For long trips to beautiful places - a DSLR or mirrorless with a set of optics from a wide-angle to a telephoto. |
| 5 | The camera as a means of production, mainly reportage | Semi-professional crop or full-frame DSLR with semi-professional zoom lens (1: 4.0 constant aperture) and external flash | Professional full-frame DSLR with fast zoom lens (1: 2.8) and external flash |
| 6 | Predominantly artistic portraits | Semi-professional camera (crop, full frame) with high-aperture fix, can be non-autofocus (via an adapter) | Full-frame camera with professional high-aperture prime. If the money has nowhere to go, then the "medium format". |
| 7 | Wedding photo | Entry level - cropped camera (DSLR, mirrorless) with an "advanced" kit 18-135 mm, high-aperture fix for portraits, external flash | A full-frame camera with a set of lenses covering a range of 24-200 mm, with a constant aperture of 1: 2.8, a professional portrait prime lens, an external flash, additional light, reflectors, an assistant who will wear it all :) |
| 8 | Photo hunting | Amateur level - cropped camera (DSLR, mirrorless) with telephoto lens 250-300 mm | Professional level - a full-frame camera with a fast telephoto lens of at least 400 mm, possibly also a teleconverter (extender). |
On this, I believe, we can end. Good luck with your choice of camera and lots of good pictures!
About my help in choosing a camera
Until recently, I provided a consultation service on choosing a camera according to your criteria. Now I am her do not render... In view of my employment, I have lost the opportunity to regularly get acquainted with the novelties of the photo industry, attend presentations and exhibitions of new products. Therefore, the maximum that I can offer you is to look again at the table above, determine the selection criteria by it, and with these criteria go to a specialized photographic store, in which sellers, as a rule, understand this topic. Seeking help from a professional salesperson is also normal, like using the services of a real estate agent, servicing the car not in the garage on your own, but in a good car service. For the extra charge that is included in the cost of goods in the brand store of Canon, Sony, Fujifilm, Olympus, etc., you get professional advice. If you don't want to pay for a consultation, sort it out yourself and buy in the online store, find out a lot of new things, and even save money :)
The cost of a compact camera is its most important characteristic. You must understand that for 2-3 thousand rubles only, excuse the expression, is offered rubbish, completely incapable of competing even with a simple smartphone. In such cameras, the matrix has a high resolution, but this only affects the quality of the images for the worse. The owner of such a soap dish will have to put up with a lot of digital noise and low detail.
The blame for all this can be the modest matrix, which is endowed with cheap compacts. It was created using the outdated CCD technology. Such a sensor is not capable of capturing the picture in all details. A a large number of megapixels most often with this technology is only harmful. Photocells corny interfere with each other, which is why the so-called digital noise is displayed in the pictures.
Also, budget devices are equipped with a low quality lens. Through plastic lenses, light reaches the matrix with great losses. It is because of this that the person then observes insufficient clarity.
Camera matrix characteristics
Now let's take a closer look at some of the technical characteristics of the cameras. We will go through all the most important components of the device. This will help you choose a good digital camera in the future, as you will only pay attention to the features you need most. 
The matrix is available in any digital camera. It was this element that replaced the film. This component captures the color by converting it into a digital image. There are several sensor manufacturing technologies. It was said about CCDs above, such matrices are found in the cheapest cameras. The second technology is called CMOS. It is best to look for a compact with just such a sensor. However, these cameras cost a lot of money. And ultrazoom is still most often equipped with a CCD sensor. This is explained by the fact that an advanced matrix costs money. A lens with a wide focal length range is also expensive. Therefore, you have to choose between it and the sensor. Otherwise, a compact camera will cost more than ten thousand rubles. And there are fewer buyers for such products. 
You don't have to think about the size of the matrix. Compact units cheaper than ten thousand rubles have a sensor with a diagonal of 1 / 2.3 inches. This is about five times less than the frame area of 35mm photographic film. Such characteristics of the camera matrix can now be called commonplace. Only the most expensive compact cameras have a larger sensor. Of course, they shoot much better too.
It is better not to pay attention to the resolution of the sensor now too. You just need to be wary of devices with 18-megapixel resolution. Such devices will supply images with a large amount of digital noise. If the matrix consists of 14 megapixels, then this is ideal parameter! Fear not, pictures of this resolution can be printed even in A4 size. And more from the compact is not required.
Camera Lens Specifications
Any camera “sees” the world around it with the help of a lens. For compacts, this part cannot be removed or replaced. Therefore, the characteristics of the lens must be excellent. 
Each lens consists of a specific number of lenses. They can be either plastic or glass. The latter type is much more expensive for the creators, so you will not see such lenses in cameras for 2-3 thousand rubles. There are also low dispersion lenses. This is also a certain type of glass that has the maximum light transmittance. 
Pay attention to the diaphragm that the optics have. The lower the number, the better, the more light will hit the matrix. But all this will not play a special role in the event that the owner of the camera is not allowed to manually adjust the aperture value. Also check this detail in the characteristics. If you learn to keep track of shutter speed and aperture, then in the future you can easily switch to a DSLR or system camera.
Almost any compact lens has a range of focal lengths. This parameter is also called optical zoom. It all depends on your needs. For some, a 5x zoom is enough. Others sacrifice the compactness of the camera and purchase a 30x optical zoom device with a huge lens.
Digital cameras and their characteristics
It's hard to say anything special about the shutter. Usually this detail is of great importance in DSLR cameras. In compacts, a simple shutter is often installed, providing a shutter speed of 1/2000 second. The ability to manually adjust the shutter speed is important. Only then can you put the compact on a tripod, increase the shutter speed to a few seconds and shoot a beautiful night scene. 
Any compact camera has a built-in flash. Pay attention to its power. Some models are capable of “hitting” at a distance of 7-8 meters. Others barely illuminate a person standing three to four meters from the lens. Expensive compacts come with a hot shoe that connects to an external flash. For many people, this is just a nice bonus, since they hesitate to buy such an accessory for various reasons.
How to Pick a Good Digital Camera
Digital cameras and their specifications usually include guidelines for LCD sizes. The cheapest models have a 2.7-inch screen. All other devices have a three-inch screen. And sometimes he also swivel mechanism supplied - it helps to shoot from non-standard angles. 
Remember to familiarize yourself with the resolution of the LCD screen. If a given component consists of only a couple of hundred thousand pixels, this is very bad. If the number of points is one million, everything is fine. Only on such a display will you examine the picture in as much detail as possible. The touch capability is not important, as it is even more convenient to operate the keys in difficult conditions.
Filming
Every digital camera can shoot video. Video performance is very important for many people. The only parameter you should be interested in is the resolution of the video image. Cheap compacts only offer a resolution of 1280 x 720 pixels. Not bad, but on large plasma the picture will appear slightly blurry. If you have such an opportunity, then purchase a CD with the ability to record videos in Full HD resolution. This is the best option. 
Also, different compacts may have different frame rates. Most often it is suggested to shoot at 25 or 30 frames per second. More expensive cameras are capable of recording video at 50 frames per second. You will notice the difference right away, with the increased frame rate the picture becomes smoother.
Summarizing
In this article, we have listed the most important specifications to look out for when choosing a compact. In fact, there are other important parameters as well. For example, some devices have Wi-Fi and GPS chips. Still compacts can offer the functions of shooting panoramas, HDR images or even three-dimensional photos. But all this is rarely written about in the list of technical specifications. So don't forget to read digital camera reviews. It is in such articles that the maximum information is contained.
Matrix
The matrix is a platform with light-sensitive elements - pixels. Each pixel of the matrix, when light hits it, generates an electric current, the strength of which depends on the intensity of the light. Knowing only the light intensity for pixels, we get black and white picture... To get a color image, a different filter is used for each pixel: red, green or blue. All other colors are obtained by mixing the three main colors. The matrix has two main parameters that affect the quality of the resulting image.
Matrix resolution, measured in megapixels. So if the camera matrix has 4 Megapixels (Mp), then this means that 4 million pixels (cells) are placed on the site. The higher the resolution, the more the camera's ability to display fine details in the image. However, you shouldn't chase megapixels. For printing 10x15 cm photos, 1 megapixel is enough. The best choice there will be a 3-5 megapixel camera, photographs taken with it can be printed up to A4 (20x30cm).
Matrix size. Popular models use matrices with linear dimensions from 1 / 1.8 to 1 / 3.2 inches. In the first case, the matrix has larger size... The large matrix offers the following benefits:
can register more light (transmit more shades),
and has a lower noise level.
Thus, if we compare two matrices of 1 / 1.8 and 1 / 3.2 sizes with the same number of pixels (for example, 4MP), the first will be the best, since 4 million pixels are located on larger area, and, therefore, such a matrix will give the best picture(better quality and less noisy). Otherwise, when two matrices are compared with the same dimensions, but with different numbers megapixels, for example, 6 and 7, it is also better to choose the first, as this will not only save money, but also allow you to get better pictures in the future. However, this is true when comparing matrices from one manufacturer or one line of cameras, in different manufacturers there may be different types of matrices with incomparable characteristics.
Sensor sensitivity (ISO)... Changes in the range of values from 50 to 3200. At high sensitivities, you can take a clear picture at twilight or even at night, although at high sensitivities the appearance of noise is accompanied.
Lens
It is thanks to the lens that the light enters the camera and the image is formed on the matrix. The quality of the resulting image largely depends on the quality of the lens - clarity, sharpness, lack of distortion, etc. Important elements the lens are the lenses and the aperture. The lenses are responsible for the nature of the light, and the diaphragm allows you to control the amount of that light. By closing the aperture to its minimum values, we can reduce the amount of light entering the matrix.
The main characteristics of the lens:
Aperture ratio. Aperture is the value of the maximum open aperture. The higher the lens aperture, the better and more expensive the camera. Under the same lighting conditions, a higher aperture lens allows you to shoot at faster shutter speeds.
Typically, lens markings look like this: 5.8-34.8mm 1: 2.8-4.8. The first pair of numbers is the focal length (distance from the front of the lens to the sensor). The second pair of numbers is the corresponding lens aperture values. For example, here at 34.8mm (at maximum zoom) the lens has an aperture of 4.8. How less number the aperture ratio, the better. A 5.8-34.8mm 1: 2-3.2 lens would be considered faster.
Focal length. The focal length determines the angle of view of the lens and how far it “sees”. For digital cameras, the focal length is also given in 35mm equivalent. This is due to the fact that the diagonal of the matrix is less than the diagonal of the 35mm film frame, that is, the matrix does not cover the entire field of the frame, which gives rise to the concept of increasing the focal length (Focal Length Multiplier). For different cameras, this factor ranges from 1.3 to 1.6. Viewing angle. Directly depends on the focal length. Approximately corresponding to the angle of view of the human eye is a lens with a focal length of 50mm. Lenses with a shorter focal length are wide-angle, with a longer one - telephoto lenses.
Zoom (zoom). The lens zoom is calculated very simply: to do this, you need to divide the larger focal length by the smaller one. For the camera above, the zoom is 34.8 / 5.8 = 6. As indicated by the manufacturer. If the camera is equipped with a lens without zoom, then its focal length and aperture are indicated on it: for example, 20mm 1: 2.8. The larger the zoom of the camera, the more complex its design, and the manufacturer has to find a compromise between cost and quality. Therefore, ultrazoom (6-12x) usually gives a poorer picture compared to moderate zooms (up to 3x).
3. Image stabilizer
The image stabilizer is designed to combat the so-called “wiggle” effect - caused by hand shake when photographing at sufficiently slow shutter speeds or at high zoom.
Stabilization options:
Optical stabilization. It is based on the fact that a movable stabilizing element is built into the lens, which bends the path of light in the desired direction. There are also sensors in the lens that control the movement of this element. As a result, with slight vibrations of the camera, the projection of the image onto the matrix always remains stationary. However, it also has its drawbacks:
The aperture of the lens decreases,
The cost rises
Canon has developed Image Stabilizer (IS) for its lenses. Nikon has a similar system called VR.
Anti-shake. In this stabilization technology, in contrast to the optical one, the matrix itself is the movable element. The main advantage of this approach is the independence of the stabilization from the lens, so such stabilization can work with any optics. The first such stabilization was developed by Konica Minolta. The most striking example of a built-in antishake is a new product from Sony - the Alpha DSLR-A100.
4. Viewfinder
The viewfinder allows you to see the future picture before pressing the shutter. In digital compact cameras, it may be completely absent, its role is played by a display on which an image is formed in real time. The viewfinder can be optical,
mirror and electronic.
The best is a DSLR viewfinder. It allows you to see the real area of the frame without distortion.
The optical viewfinder is just a through hole in the camera body and does not correspond to what the lens sees, if only because it is displaced relative to it by a certain distance, but in this case the display comes to the rescue of the photographer.
5. Camera display
On compact digital cameras, the display allows you to see the picture as it appears in the photograph and to see in advance the imperfections in the composition, shadows, illumination (some cameras are able to show the histogram of the future image in real time). On DSLRs, the display can be used to view the frames already taken. The display also serves as an interface for controlling the camera, so the larger and brighter it is, the better.
6. Flash.
Usually each camera is equipped with a built-in low-power flash capable of illuminating the foreground. Also flashes are supplied various functions red-eye reduction, etc. Professional and semi-professional cameras also have a contact for connecting an external flash - a hot shoe. External flashes offer much better results in all genres of photography.
7. Possibility of manual settings
An important condition for obtaining high-quality photos is the presence of manual settings in the camera. Namely, the ability to adjust the aperture, adjust the shutter speed, set the white balance, change the sensitivity of the matrix and other settings.
The presence of these adjustments allows you to fully control the shooting process, because even the fastest camera processor may not know the photographer's intention.
Camera, shutter lag, (English lag - lag);
Lens
Matrix
In digital photography, several types of matrices (sensors) are used, which can be classified according to the method:
- readout of the charge "potential pits": CCD, CMOS;
- color separation: matrices with Bayer filter and matrices without Bayer filter - matrices Foveon X3.
An example of the matrix designation in the characteristics of the camera: 1 / 1.8 "CCD 5.25 Mp. - CCD matrix with a resolution of 5.25 Megapixels and a diagonal of 1 / 1.8 Vidicon inches.
Gate
- Almost all compact cameras (that is, the sensor is smaller than APS-C) are equipped with a shutter that is built into the sensor. An electronic shutter is a switch that turns on the sensor to receive the light flux and turns it off at the command of the processor. With such digital cameras, the shutter provides shutter speeds in the range of (approximately) 10 s to 1/500 s.
- Some digital cameras (SLR or rangefinder) are equipped with a mechanical shutter to ensure accurate exposure and prevent light from reaching the sensor after the exposure time has expired. The mechanical shutter has electric drive and is controlled by the processor. The most important characteristics of a mechanical shutter are minimum shutter speed and sync speed. For digital cameras with a mechanical shutter, shutter speeds range from 30 s and can go up to 1/8000 s. The sync speed is in the range of 1/125 - 1/350 s.
Processors
Parallax optical viewfinder
The simple optical viewfinder is used in many compact digital cameras and is a simple telescopic system with its own small lens and eyepiece into which the photographer is looking. Mechanically, the viewfinder lens is linked to the zoom of the main lens of the camera and the magnification of the main lens corresponds to that of the viewfinder. This design is simple and reliable in operation, but it has parallax and does not allow you to control the focusing accuracy. In addition, such a viewfinder provides acceptable image quality at a limited (about 4) zoom magnification. Therefore, for lenses with a zoom greater than 5 ×, an electronic viewfinder is more often used.
Electronic viewfinders
The most widely used LCD viewfinders on compact devices, and in 2009, the "Live View" mode began to be used even on SLR cameras of many companies.
In addition to the image from the matrix, the LCD and EVF viewfinders display the main shooting parameters and additional information: battery charge level, zoom, selected resolution, quality (compression ratio), self-timer parameters, brightness histogram, flash symbol, red-eye correction symbol », Exposure compensation symbol, shutter speed, aperture, sensitivity, exposure programs, preset white balance, audio recording, picture number, focus area, etc.
The display is also used for viewing captured frames.
One of the main characteristics of a camera LCD is its size and resolution. A large diagonal is more convenient, but requires more power consumption (reduced battery life) for the backlight.
When shooting in bright sunlight, it is very difficult to see the image on the LCD screen, so some cameras have a variant of the "electronic viewfinder with magnifier" (usually referred to as EVF), and the camera is brought up to the eye when shooting with such a viewfinder. Moreover, there are both designs with a separate miniature screen, and devices in which the same screen is turned "to the back wall" of the device or "under a magnifying glass" (for example, Konica Minolta Z series).
The EVF has no parallax.
Disadvantages of LCD and EVF viewfinders
- In the dark, LCD and EVF viewfinders work poorly due to insufficient light sensitivity of the matrix. The parallax optical viewfinder does not have this problem.
- LCD displays of digital cameras "go blind" in the light when the "own backlight" of the LCD is weaker than ambient light. Since the EVF viewfinder is "hidden" inside the body, it does not have such a problem.
- The image on LCD and EVF viewfinders is refreshed not in real time, but with a certain delay (≈ 1/60 sec), which is inconvenient when shooting dynamic scenes. The reason is that for the camera's LCD display to operate in the viewfinder mode, the camera is switched to the continuous “film shooting” mode without recording (with a frequency of ≈ 60 frames / sec).
- LCD and EVF viewfinders on digital cameras consume a lot of power, and in order to save money, it is sometimes useful to turn them off.
- The LCD DAC creates quite a lot of noise and degrades the signal-to-noise ratio.
Flash memory
In modern digital cameras, memory cards are used in formats: Secure Digital, CompactFlash, Memory Stick, Multimedia Card (MMC). The Secure Digital (SD) format is the most popular on the market (2007-2009).
The actual number of photographs that can be recorded when photographing on one 1 GB flash card, as a rule, is 200-10,000 and depends on the resolution and recording format selected for shooting.
A number of cameras have fundamental limitations on the capacity of the memory cards used, which are usually not advertised by the manufacturer. Since the production and sale of cards with a smaller capacity stops as soon as more capacious cards are released, it becomes very difficult to buy a new card for an old device within about two years.
Aspect ratio and interchangeable lenses
The frame of digital cameras is selected with the aspect ratio (4: 3 = 1.33), as in analog TVs and CRT monitors. The standard aspect ratio for photographic film (3: 2 = 1.5) is 36 × 24 mm, etc. Many digital SLR cameras have a film frame (3: 2).
The matrix sizes of most digital cameras are smaller than a standard 35 mm film frame - 36 × 24 mm. The diagonal of the matrix is indicated in the passport of the camera.
The term EGF, Fe - "effective focal length" - defines the focal length of a lens that gives the same angle of view on a 35-mm frame as a lens mounted on a digital camera with a smaller matrix.
Lenses specially designed for a smaller aspect ratio with a focal length of> 7 mm can return a wide angle of view to digital SLR cameras.
Creative opportunities for the photographer
Exposure modes can be divided into manual ("creative") and automatic (A). Creative modes include shutter-priority (Tv), (time variation), or aperture priority (Av), (aperture variation), and manual (M), (manual) - manual).
- In aperture priority (Av) mode, the photographer sets the aperture A (using a dedicated wheel or buttons), and the processor, based on the metering results, automatically calculates the optimal shutter speed T, for the best signal-to-noise ratio and the lowest equivalent ISO sensitivity.
- In shutter priority (Tv) mode, the photographer sets the shutter speed to T, and the processor calculates the aperture, A, for the best signal-to-noise ratio and the lowest ISO.
- In manual mode (M), exposure bars (T and A) are set manually, and according to the metering data for a given digital image, the processor calculates and sets the required equivalent sensitivity, ISO. If this ISO is not acceptable for a given digital camera, the processor warns the photographer about a gross error that the photographer made when setting the shutter speed T and aperture A. A false value for the shutter speed T or aperture A turns red.
- For beginner photographers and time-saving professional photographers, there is an automatic mode (A), (English automatic - automatic) and many scene programs. For automatic mode and scene shooting, most of the shooting parameters are optimized by the camera processor. Three of the most frequently used scene programs ("portrait", "landscape" and "night shooting") are brought directly to the mode dial or selected using the menu.
- (English Stitch assist - Panoramic mode) serves to facilitate panoramic shooting. A panorama is a series of frames taken with some horizontal or vertical displacement and subsequently “glued” into a single image. The "gluing" is performed by a computer using the program supplied with the camera. For this program to successfully cope with its task, it is necessary to take the entire series of source frames with the same exposure and focal length. This is exactly what the Stitch assist mode provides: the metering results and the zoom position are fixed at the first frame in the series, and all subsequent frames of the panorama are shot with the same parameters, and the display shows the reference lines and the edge of the previous frame. So, even without a tripod, when shooting panoramas hand-held, you can get acceptable results.
- The processor calculates the exposure parameters very accurately using the exposure metering, but sometimes it is necessary to perform exposure correction (exposure compensation) manually. This is due to the fact that the camera matrix is capable of capturing a limited range of brightness (dynamic range). Typical examples: dark mountains against a bright sky, shooting against the light, sunsets and sunrises, dominance of shadows, etc. Objects in the frame that have a greater spread in brightness than the dynamic range of the matrix cannot be worked out equally well. Matrix dynamic range (in decibels) equal to the number electrons, which can store a pixel (pixel capacity) divided by the number of noise electrons (dark current + ADC, DAC and electronics noise during the readout of the potential well). If the dynamic range of the signal is, for example, 60 dB, which roughly corresponds to the value of full charge capacity / noise = 1024 = 10 bits, then a 10-bit ADC is used. A 12-16 bit ADC for 3 colors per pixel allows for deep shadows.
- A great help to the photographer in assessing exposure and exposure compensation is provided by the brightness histogram - a graph of the distribution of brightness in the frame. On the horizontal axis, the brightness is plotted from dark on the left to light on the right, on the vertical axis, the relative number of pixels of each shade is plotted. Better, those cameras in which the histogram is "live", that is, it is updated during framing.
The histogram clearly overlaps the dynamic range of the matrix photographic latitude scene or not and where to shift exposure compensation and shift results.
When shooting a scene with a wide range of brightness, it is advisable not to allow the "burnout" of lights in digital photographs - everything is white (maximum brightness values in large areas of the image) and / or blackening of shadows - everything is black ( minimum values brightness in large areas of the image is the level of digital noise).
We recommend that you always take a series of shots with exposure bracketing, unless "under-light" or "overexposure" is useful for various artistic effects.
- Exposure compensation is measured in terms of EV (exposure value). Increasing exposure by +1 EV corresponds to opening the aperture one stop or increasing the shutter speed by 2 times. Most digital cameras have an exposure compensation of ± 2 EV in 0.2-0.5 EV steps.
Digital Photo Recording Formats
Most modern digital cameras record images in formats: JPEG, TIFF, Raw.
JPEG format is supported by all digital cameras. Format created by the JPEG group (Joint Photographic Experts Group) specially for storing photos and has a high degree of image compression at the expense of some quality loss. Small size JPEG files can significantly save storage space and quickly transfer images over communication lines.
The images are supplemented with additional information about the shooting parameters in the EXIF format.
The most promising format is RAW, which transmits information from a photosensor without processing by the camera's processor. Processing is carried out on a computer, where the capabilities are much greater than that of a camera microprocessor.
Photo flashes and lighting equipment
- Almost all digital cameras have flash units, which, in addition to illuminating the subject, can have the following functions: removing the harmful red-eye effect, “second curtain sync”, power adjustment, autofocus illumination, and a series of flashes. Typically, the flash emitter is built into the camera body.
- The emitter of a Cobra type flash unit is mounted on a spring-loaded arm that can be raised above the camera body to reduce the harmful red-eye effect.
- It is possible to completely get rid of the appearance of "red eyes" only when using an external flash remote from the optical axis of the camera at a sufficient distance, or the whole system flashes and lighting fixtures.
Simple cameras can work with external flashes of ISO 518 standard, which have only a central sync terminal for communication with the camera automatics.
In order not to damage (not burn) the automation, before working with external flashes, you must make sure that there is no high voltage on the sync contact of the external flash. In older models of flash units for film cameras, high voltage (from 120 to 340 volts) was applied to the sync contacts.
- In modern computer programs photo editors include a tool that performs red-eye correction).
Front end
The built-in LCD of the camera is rather small, so it is more convenient to view the footage on the TV screen. The vast majority of digital cameras are connected to a TV, computer or printer via a low-frequency video output using a USB 2.0 interface cable,
The power supply of digital cameras and other small-sized equipment: radio receivers (Notebook, PDA, Handy, players, mini TV sets, navigators, etc.) has not been sufficiently developed. The capacity, service life, weight, dimensions and modes of recharging even lithium-polymer batteries do not meet the ever-increasing energy consumption of modern "pocket" electronic equipment.
Digital camera manufacturers offer (2007) two main types of power supply: AA-size finger cells and proprietary lithium-ion batteries. AA batteries and Ni-MH rechargeable batteries take up a relatively large amount of space, make the camera heavier by about 100 grams and are quite expensive, but they are universal and applicable in various techniques.
Small capacity lithium ion batteries is also insufficient (~ 1 Ah). If with a fully charged battery it is possible to shoot 200-250 frames, then the power consumption of this digital camera ~ 4 mAh per 1 photo is a good result. The photographer is advised to always carry a pair of charged spare batteries.
Almost all cameras have a connector for connecting an external power source for charging the battery and filming in the studio.
Design and interface
A good digital camera should have convenient controls and a small footprint. The device should lie confidently in the hand. This is especially true for not too compact and light cameras that have a special grip that should fit the size of your hand. A secure grip on the unit reduces camera shake when shooting. Frequently used controls should be within reach of the index and thumb of the right hand and should be equally comfortable to shoot with both hands and one hand, both vertically and horizontally.
Switching between shooting and viewing modes should be as simple as possible - using a separate button or lever. Push-button control is much less efficient and intuitive. It is convenient when exposure compensation, white balance and light sensitivity, as well as changing the shutter speed and aperture, are placed on separate buttons, wheels (dials).
Additional convenience when shooting from unusual positions, macro photography, etc. is created when the camera has a rotary display.
Selection strategy
It is impossible to create a universal apparatus that satisfies numerous and contradictory requirements.
- The main contradiction: between the compactness of the camera - and the quality of photographs;
- A contradiction typical for any electronic equipment: between weight and the degree of autonomy.
Therefore, first you need to decide on a list of necessary functions - and those that can be neglected. Then - to compare the technical characteristics of cameras only in this price class.
Physical size of the matrix
The properties of semiconductors are such that so-called thermal noise is always present in them. The level of interference also increases due to inhomogeneity of dopants and other disadvantages of technology. As a result, the image obtained from the matrix is always "spoiled" by chaotically changing values of brightness and color of each pixel.
The effect of this noise on the final image of the same physical size (for example, a 10 × 15 cm print):
- the higher, the smaller the physical size of one photosensitive element.
- the lower than more number elements in the image.
As a result, it turns out that, other things being equal, the larger the physical size of the matrix, the higher the image quality.
Technological problems of photosensor production
It is possible to increase the photosensitive area and reduce the area spent on the charge sensing circuits ("strapping") of each of the tens of millions of photodiodes of a small matrix with a high resolution using less than 0.14 micron technologies. For 2007-2008, integrated photosensor microchips are produced using 0.25 - 0.14 micron technologies.
Optics requirements
Small matrices with high resolution (more than 10 effective megapixels) also require high resolution from the lens.
Take, for example, a 1 / 1.8 "CCD (5.32 × 7.18 mm) in a 4/3 frame (3584 × 2688), a resolution of 9 633 792 pixels. 70% of the matrix area is occupied by 28 901 376 photodiodes.
We consider the effective area of the matrix P = 0.7 × 5.32 × 7.18 = 26.73832 mm 2. There are 28 901 376 / 26.73832 ≈ 1 080 897 photodiodes ≈ 360 299 pixels per 1 mm 2. √360 299 ≈ 600 pixels per millimeter.
The lens of this compact digital camera must have a resolution of more than 300 lpm (lines per millimeter, lines per millimeter). In optics 2 pixels represent one line.
Lenses made of glass, plastic, ceramics and flat lenses are used in the development of new generation lenses.
In front of you is a recently purchased new Camera, which is replete with all sorts of buttons, wheels, switches, windows ...
And seeing this wealth, you clearly understand that you can't even imagine how to manage all this economy ... .. And I really want to put this potential into business .... And take pictures, take pictures take pictures ... ..
Let's try to deal with this abundance of settings. After all, everyone needs their own settings, preferences. And how to choose something of your own from this set? Understand what is needed and what can be neglected? In fact, having mastered basic concepts, everything will be very simple and the camera will become just an extension of the hand and the pictures will be excellent.
Let's start by deciding which camera mode to choose.
And in fact, as strange as it may seem, the most optimal mode is manual... It is clear that the temptation is great to set the automatic mode. But as a result, we will get the most standard picture, at the level of the soap dish. We will not unleash the full potential of our camera ... .. Then why buy an expensive camera that can take amazing photos? If you look at the owners of SLR cameras - every second person shoots in automatic mode, absolutely not knowing how to use their camera, not knowing how to use the amazing possibilities that this camera provides ...
But in fact, there is nothing complicated here. And knowing two or three basic parameters, you can take very cool pictures. And you can learn this very quickly. The main thing is to understand the basis. Understand what a beautiful shot consists of, how best to expose the composition. So….
Rule # 1- We never take pictures in automatic mode. And the first thing we do is set the mode on the camera M (Manual), - manual.
Rule # 2- We do not write files in the format Jpg, If we look at the camera monitor, we will see the icon there. L, Exactly this high quality that may have Jpg-shot. Therefore, we go to the file format settings menu and select the format RAW, the so-called "raw" format.
JPG format Is a compressed file format. And if mistakes were made when photographing, the light and exposure were incorrectly set, then little could be corrected.
What can not be said about RAW format(raw), here these, and many others, errors are very easy to fix. In RAW format, the camera collects direct information from the sensor. Yes, as a result, each image takes up much more space. But it's worth it. After transferring the file to a computer and its final processing, you can always convert it to a more familiar and "light" JPG. But the snapshot will not be lost! The picture is of high quality, professional. For which one is not ashamed….
So ... .. We switched the camera to M mode, set the quality to RAW. And now we move on to the settings that need to be understood.
And the first thing we start with is Diaphragm.
For clarity The diaphragm is like the human eye... When we are in the dark, the pupil dilates in order to see better in the dark. If we are in the sun, the pupil becomes small, so that sunlight did not blind. The diaphragm works in the same way. If you need to make the picture lighter, for example, in a dark room, or at twilight, then you need to set the aperture value as small as possible (in numbers). True, here it is also necessary not to forget that with an increase in the opening of the aperture blades (the number decreases), the depth of field also decreases. In short, for example, if we are doing a portrait, with a shallow depth of field, the background behind the person will be blurred. And accordingly, for a landscape shot, it is best to close the aperture as much as possible (the maximum number allowed) so that both the foreground and background are in focus.
Also interesting effect can be obtained if, when shooting at night, the aperture is closed, then the light sources (lights, stars) turn into "stars".
And as a result: The more the aperture blades are opened (the number is minimal), the more light falls on the matrix and vice versa.
Now let's move on to the next parameter - ISO(photosensitivity).
With this parameter, you can compensate for the aperture value when you have to close it in the dark and vice versa, too open in the sun (playing with depth of field). ISO numbers "historically" have moved from the numbers measuring the photosensitivity of photographic films. And the number ISO conditionally
shows how sensitive the camera's matrix is(able to perceive) light information.
When the number changes ISO, with all other parameters being constant, the picture becomes lighter, and vice versa. This parameter is convenient, for example, to use when shooting in a dark room, when by increasing the sensitivity, we can get a very, very decent frame. But there is also the other side of the coin…. The higher the ISO speed, the more “noise” (color ripple) in the picture. This happens due to the fact that a greater voltage is applied to the camera matrix and the neighboring pixels on the matrix begin to fade into each other with excessive field voltage. So it is best to try to use the lowest ISO number.
When you adjust all the settings for your camera, pay attention to the value Exposure meter.
It can be seen both on the external monitor and in the lens viewfinder. This indicator shows how much "light" is enough for the snapshot with the selected options. If the value tends to “minus”, then the picture will turn out to be dark, and you need to either slightly open the aperture, or increase the ISO, or increase the shutter speed, and vice versa. If the pointer goes "plus", then the picture will be overexposed, and you need to tighten the parameters a little, either by closing the aperture, or by lowering the ISO, or by reducing the shutter speed.
So this index is very useful, allowing you to immediately assess how well the shooting parameters are selected.
And now the turn came to the next main parameter - Excerpt.
As a rule, there is a tuning wheel next to the shutter button, so this is the shutter speed control.
Excerpt- this is the time during which light entering through the lens is projected onto the matrix. And it is measured in fractions of a second. If the value is for example "30", it means that the shutter curtain opens for 1/30 of a second, respectively, if the value is "160" - the projection time is 1/160th of a second. Those. the higher the number, the faster the shutter speed.
Excerpts are conventionally divided into short and long. If the value is “faster” than 1/100, the shutter speed is fast. For example 1/200, 1/1000 - the shutter speed is short. If 1/60, 1/5, etc. - exposure is long.
When using fast shutter speeds, you can shoot without a tripod, for example, an athlete in a jump, so that he stands still in flight. And when using slow shutter speeds, it is better to use a tripod. Also short exposures are used to obtain "blurry" motion, visually showing the swiftness of the subject being filmed.
And this completes the basic shooting parameters. From this point on, you need to shoot, shoot and shoot again, changing the studied parameters, and see the difference in the obtained photos, choosing your own unique style, enjoying the result ...
Go for it, you are talented !!!
Date of publication: 23.10.2015 G.
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