Laying tongue and groove boards on the floor. Laying tongue and groove boards

Without exaggeration, we can say that this flooring option has been tested for centuries. Laying technology wooden floor on logs with minor changes has been used for several centuries. This is the most environmentally friendly solution for flooring, but at the same time this coating has a number of disadvantages and important nuances, which you need to know before starting work.

Currently, the main area of ​​application for wooden floors is the construction of small private houses. Especially often, floors on logs are installed in wooden houses and log houses, in which the floors between floors are made of beams.

Much less often, wooden floors are laid in city apartments with reinforced concrete floors. However, the technology is still used, especially in cases where pouring a full leveling screed is impossible for some reason.

Sometimes plank flooring is a finishing coating and part of the designer’s idea when creating a renovation concept. In this case, beautiful wood species such as oak, larch or pine are chosen for the flooring. The boards are thoroughly polished, impregnated with an antiseptic and covered with varnish or wax. The result is a very beautiful and durable coating that pleases the eye with the natural texture of wood.

Wooden floors can be used even when arranging wet rooms, such as baths and bathrooms. However, this is not done often, as it requires careful selection of wood, reliable waterproofing and impregnation of boards with very expensive solutions that prevent moisture absorption.

Features of laying wooden floors on joists

The main feature of this type of floor, which must be taken into account, is that wood can absorb moisture from environment, deform due to temperature changes, and are also susceptible to rotting. Therefore, when laying a wooden floor, it is extremely important to take care reliable vapor barrier and saturate the joists and boards with antiseptic.

The joists must be attached to the base and the floor boards to the joists as securely as possible; it is necessary to prevent the formation of cracks, voids and “sagging” of the boards and joists. When laying the finishing boards, be sure to use expansion wedges that will press the boards together as tightly as possible.

Wood screws provide maximum security of fastening. The length of the screw must exceed the thickness of the board being fixed by at least 2.5 times. To prevent the board from splitting when you screw in the screw, you must first drill a hole in it with a diameter 2-3 mm smaller than the diameter of the screw.

If the boards are planned as a finishing coating, then care should be taken to hide the heads of the screws or nails. To do this, use either a special putty or small plugs made of the same type of wood as the entire floor. But the best option is to screw the screw into the chamfer of the board at an angle to the joist. The disadvantage of this option is that it is more labor intensive.

You should also make sure that all the finishing boards are from the same batch, because the color of the wood depends on the growing conditions, and the shade of different batches may differ.

What are the consequences of mistakes when laying a wooden floor on joists?

The biggest mistake you can make when laying a wooden floor is insufficient vapor barrier. Usually it is made of dense polyethylene or penofol, which will also provide additional sound insulation. If this step is neglected or the insulating coating is damaged, the floor will very soon begin to rot and mold will appear on it. This will not only significantly shorten the life of the floor, but can also negatively affect people’s health.

The second most common mistake is using wood that is not dry enough. The humidity of boards and joists should be no more than 15%. It is important to remember that in wet weather, even initially dry boards very quickly absorb moisture from the air. If there are prolonged rains outside the window, then it is better to refuse to lay the floor on these days. If you lay a floor with wet planks, they will begin to warp as they dry. This will lead to creaking, the appearance of cracks and differences in height between adjacent boards, which, in turn, will affect the finishing coating.

An insufficiently accurate level when laying joists will lead to creaking of the floor and gradual loosening of the boards. This will greatly reduce the service life of the coating and will require periodic repairs.

Another common mistake is insufficient distance from the end board to the wall; it should be at least 10 mm. This distance is necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of wood. If they are neglected, then seasonal change temperature, the floor will experience very serious internal loads, which will lead to cracking of some boards and the appearance of creaks.

Advantages and disadvantages of wooden floors on joists

The advantages of this coating

Disadvantages of wooden floors on joists

Step-by-step instructions for laying a wooden floor on joists

Below are step-by-step instructions for installing wood flooring. The installation of such a floor in a private house with a soil foundation is somewhat more complicated than in a house with a reinforced concrete foundation, but in general the stages of work are the same in both cases.

Laying logs on the ground base

If you are laying a wooden floor directly above the soil, then it must be cleared of turf and plant roots and a layer at least 20 cm thick must be removed. After which the soil is covered with fine crushed stone and thoroughly compacted.

On this basis, brick columns with a cross-section of 250 x 250 mm and a height of at least two layers of brick are built. The tops of all columns should be at the same level, this will prevent sagging of the joists and floor boards.

If beams 100 x 50 mm and up to 3 meters long are used as logs, then two columns at the edges of the logs are sufficient. The distance between the logs, and therefore between adjacent columns, should be 600 mm. If the length of the log is more than 3 meters, then one is strengthened with an additional column in the middle.

The top of the column is lined with a rigid waterproofing material, for example, dense polyethylene film. Wooden spacers or wedges are installed on top of it, which are necessary for the final horizontal adjustment of the joists.

After this, you can begin laying the joists. Initially, the two outermost logs are laid level. A fishing line is stretched between them, along which all other logs are set. Adjustment is carried out using spacers or wedges. The lags are fastened to the posts using anchor bolts.

In this case, the procedure is much simpler; it is enough to cover the floor with waterproofing, for example, made of polyethylene, and logs are laid on top of it at a distance of 400-600 mm on wooden control pads. First, the two outer logs are laid level, after which a fishing line is stretched between them, along which the height of all other logs is adjusted.

Adjustment is carried out by adding or, conversely, removing adjusting shims.

Currently, the use of adjustable logs is sometimes practiced. These logs have drilled holes with threads into which a special pin is screwed, attached to the concrete base using dowels. Rotating the pin adjusts the height of the log.

After all the logs are aligned to the same level, the protruding parts of the studs are cut off using a grinder. This method greatly simplifies the horizontal alignment of the logs, but is not used very widely due to the noticeable increase in the cost of the structure.

Adjustable lags with clamps

It is important to remember that there must be a distance of at least 10 mm between the edges of the joist and the wall. It is necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of wood.

Preparing for flooring

Before you begin laying the boards, you need to lay a layer of thermal insulation between the joists. This can be mineral wool or polystyrene. At the same stage, wires in plastic corrugation can be laid between the joists, if necessary. Standard width insulation sheets are most often 600 mm, which makes it easy to lay it between the joists.

After all the necessary communications and insulation have been laid, you can begin laying the rough or finished floor.

Laying rough wood flooring

If laminate, carpet or linoleum is intended to be used as a finishing coating, then, as a rule, a rough covering of uncut boards, plywood or fiberboard is laid on the logs.

Sheets of plywood or fiberboard are laid on the joists and secured with nails or screws. You should not skimp on fastening points; screws should be screwed into each joist at intervals of no more than 30 cm. The head of the screw or nail should be recessed into the slab by 1-2 mm. It is important to leave a distance of at least 10 mm between the wall and the coating. This gap will also provide ventilation of the space under the floor. 2-3 weeks after completion of work, it can be covered with a plinth.

When laying a subfloor from boards, you need to start work from far corner rooms and move towards the entrance. The length of the boards is selected so that their joint is in the middle of the log. The boards are laid as closely as possible to each other and fixed with screws. To prevent the board from splitting when screwing in a screw, you must first drill a hole for it with a drill bit with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw. Drill a little larger diameter you need to make a small recess into which the screw head will hide.

Laying finished wood flooring

A folded board or a board made of laminated veneer lumber is usually used as a final finishing coating. These boards must be soaked in a protective antiseptic solution. There are some nuances in laying such boards. Since this floor will no longer be covered with anything, it is extremely important to avoid the slightest gaps between the boards, and it is also important to hide the screw heads so that they do not spoil appearance floor.

Laying folded boards is carried out according to the same principle as laying boards for a subfloor with the only difference being that two adjacent boards are pressed against each other as tightly as possible. To do this, a bracket is driven into the joist at a distance of 4-6 cm from the board, between which and the edge of the board a wedge is installed, pressing the board. When the pressure on the board is maximum, it is fixed with screws, after which the wedge and bracket are removed. The operation must be repeated for each row of boards, this will prevent the formation of cracks. The board is attached to the joist using a screw, which is screwed into the chamfer at an angle, this allows you to hide its head and improve the appearance of the floor. You can also use special decorative nails for the floor, driving them in strictly at equal distances, but this is a compromise option; the absence of visible fastening looks much better.

Comparative characteristics of floorboards

Batten. Prices

Floor board. Name, material, size	Price, rub./m2
Floorboard Pine K1-2 (25x90) 1.8m	250
Floorboard Pine K1-2 (25x90) 1.0m	250
Floorboard Pine K1-2 (28x130) 1.8m	290
Floorboard Pine K1-2 (28x130) 2.0m	480
Floorboard Pine K1-2 (28x130) 6.0m	480
Floorboard Pine K1-2 (32x100) 5.4m	570
Floorboard Pine K1-2 (32x130) 5.85m	570
Floorboard Larch K2-3 (27x90) 5.4m	460
Floorboard Larch K2-3 (27x90) 5.1m	460
Floorboard Larch K2-3 (27x90) 4.8m	460
Floorboard Larch K1-2 (27x130) 3.0m	560
Floorboard Larch K1-2 (27x110) 3.0m	560
Heat-treated pine LUNAWOOD (Finland). Floor board (tongue and groove) 26x92	195 rub. /linear m
Europol (pine, 32 mm)	grade 0 (Extra) 970.56 rub/m2; grade 1 (Prima) 676.80 rub/m2; grade 2 (B) 460.00 rub/m2; grade 3 (C) 384.00 rub/m2; grade N/K (D) 301.76 rub/m2.

Video - Laying a wooden floor on joists

The tongue and groove board is used, as a rule, for finishing the floor. It is made from solid pine or spruce. There is a tongue and groove on one edge of the tongue-and-groove board, and a groove for it on the other. This greatly simplifies the installation of the material. The boards mounted by connecting the groove and tongue form a single solid surface.

After installation, the floor surface is treated (sanded and varnished) to acquire an attractive appearance and extend its service life.

Scheme of laying tongue-and-groove boards on joists.

There are different sizes of tongue and groove boards for ease of installation. You can find mounting units from 2 to 6 meters in length, from 9.6 to 15 cm in width and thickness in the range of 2.5-4 cm. After production, the boards are dried to 10-15% humidity and hermetically packaged. Thanks to this, you can immediately begin its installation without prior preparation.

Installation procedure

The material is laid in a certain order. You need to keep it indoors for 3 to 14 days after delivery so that the humidity in the room and the moisture in the wood are equal. The length of the aging period depends on the season of production. repair work. After a few days, you can remove the packaging film and, if necessary, cut the material to length.

Scheme of a tongue-and-groove board.

After cutting, the board must be laid on logs covered with insulation or film. The material is left in this position for a few more days to acclimatize. Only after this can the material be laid.

It is not recommended to use glue or any other synthetic substances during installation. Self-tapping screws are used to secure the board. flooring screwed to each joist. The distance between the logs should not exceed 59 cm.

The first installation unit is located with the tongue-and-groove side facing the wall.

A small gap of 1-2 cm is left between them. The floor will be ventilated through this gap. In addition, if the floor's humidity increases over time and the board expands, this gap will prevent the floor surface from deforming. The boards should not be concave. You should make sure of this before starting work.

To secure it to the joists, it is best to use wood screws 5.5-6 cm long. They need to be screwed into the groove at an angle. You must first drill the holes with a drill with a diameter of 2.5 or 3 mm. Thanks to the hole, the groove will not crack when screwed in. Due to their small thickness, drills for this work break quite quickly, so it is recommended to stock up on them for future use.

The second board is attached to the first. It is unlikely that you will be able to perfectly match them to each other using a mallet, so you should not be overzealous with it. For a better result, you can use a wooden wedge, which you need to drive through the entire board, while screwing in the self-tapping screw.

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The fastest and convenient way- This is the use of a car jack. But in this case, it is necessary to protect the material from damage. For this purpose, small planks are used, which need to be rested against the following mounting elements. When using a jack, the use of a mallet is not required.

Thus, the installation of a floor made of tongue and groove boards is quite simple. You can install the flooring elements yourself. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the material.

Didn't find the answer in the article? More information on the topic:

High-quality installation of plank flooring is a difficult task. But it can be simplified if you use not an ordinary board for assembly, but a tongue-and-groove one. The presence of tenons and grooves on the side edges allows such boards to be connected to each other, like parts of a construction set. The result is a smooth, environmentally friendly floor without cracks and, if necessary, without the visual presence of fasteners. For the result to be just like this, you need to know how to choose tongue-and-groove boards, how to lay them and connect them together, and how to replace broken floorboards. Let's talk about this in more detail.

What is a tongue and groove board?

They call it tongue and groove floorboard, on one edge of which a longitudinal groove is cut, and on the other - a tongue (tenon, ridge). When assembling the floor, a tenon of the adjacent one is inserted into the groove of one board. The connection is tight, with virtually no gaps.

Unlike edged boards, the front side of a tongue and groove board is sanded smooth and does not require additional leveling or processing with a plane. The reverse side may not be processed, but in any case it has special grooves for ventilation. They ensure free circulation of air in the floor space and, accordingly, prevent wood rotting.

With proper installation and joining of tongue and groove boards, there are completely no gaps between them. This prevents squeaks and rapid wear of the wooden covering.

The disadvantage of a tongue and groove floor is considered to be its high tendency to deformation (warping, swelling) when the humidity in the room fluctuates or when wet boards are used when installing.

Choosing good building materials

To avoid problems with the finished floor, you should take a responsible approach to the choice of tongue and groove boards and the method of storing them.

Aspect #1 - wood type

The first thing people pay attention to is the quality and type of wood. Tongue and groove boards are made from:

• Spruce and pine are inexpensive, easy-to-process species. Their main advantage is their low price. In addition, they have excellent heat capacity, so spruce and pine floors always seem warm. However, it is better not to use them for floors in high traffic areas. Women's heels, furniture legs, fallen objects - all this can leave wooden surface noticeable dents. Varnishing is required.
• Larch is a hard coniferous species characterized by moisture resistance and durability. Larch boards have a beautiful, clear structure and rich color. Thanks to this, it is not necessary to cover it with stains and varnish.
• Oak and ash are durable, hard woods. Their wood has a clearly defined texture and rich shade. Ash and Oak planks are considered the most reliable and durable. However, they are also the most expensive.

Aspect #2 - board sizes

The dimensions of the tongue and groove boards should also be taken into account. They may differ significantly. Ideally, the length of the boards should match (or be slightly less than) the length of the wall along which they will be laid. The thickness of the coating determines the reliability of the coating and the price. Standard sizes tongue and groove boards are as follows:

• length – 1-6 m;
• width – 70-200 mm;
• thickness – 18-45 mm.

Aspect #3 - quality class

Tongue and groove boards are sorted by quality class. There are 4 classes in total:

• Extra – top class or, as it is also called, euro sheet pile.

  This is the most expensive material, without knots, cracks, with a uniform structure and shade.

• A – material without cracks or knots, some inhomogeneity of shade is allowed.
• B – single stains and cracks are allowed.
• C – economy class, with the presence of multiple knots, single through holes, cracks. Typically, class C boards are used for subfloor installation.

This is what it looks like:

Aspect #4 - Humidity

The ideal moisture content of tongue and groove boards is 12-16%. If the boards are poorly dried, then deformation of the finished floor is inevitable. Cracks and warping of boards often occur. There will almost certainly be gaps between the boards, so the floor will have to be re-laid.

The moisture content of the boards can be determined using a moisture meter. If this device is not available, you can get by with simpler evaluation methods:

• When tapped with your knuckles, dry (suitable for flooring) wood produces a ringing, clearly audible sound. A wet board, on the contrary, sounds dull, barely audible.
• If you touch a wet board, you can feel the dampness. There is no feeling of moisture on a dry board.
• The color of a wet board is darker than that of a dry board. Also, after high-quality industrial drying, the surface of the board acquires a noticeable shine. A damp board remains matte.
• Inside packaging film there should be no condensation. Droplets of moisture on the film always indicate excessive moisture on the boards.

On what basis is it better to lay tongue and groove?

After purchasing tongue and groove boards, you can proceed to laying them. As a base you can use:

• Wooden logs fixed on top of any covering - screed, plywood, wooden floor.

  Floors made of tongue and groove boards, the procedure for laying the floor, its advantages, disadvantages

  Also, logs can be laid on brick supports.

• Concrete floors with screed.
• Moisture-resistant plywood.
• Old wooden floor.
• Subfloor made of tongue-and-groove boards or low grade lumber.

The gold standard in construction is the laying of tongue and groove boards on pre-fixed joists. They allow you to efficiently tighten the boards during installation and prevent further floor deformations. Therefore, we recommend that you choose this option.

Technology for installing tongue and groove boards on joists

It is important that the laying of tongue and groove boards is carried out in two stages. First, the boards are mounted with partial fastening (usually fastening is performed only for every 4-5 boards in a row). After six months or a year, the floor is re-laid and each board is fastened. Such measures are necessary, since the boards usually dry out a little during the first six months of being in the room, and small gaps appear between them. Therefore, the boards have to be laid again, joining them more tightly.

To assemble a tongue and groove wooden floor you will need:

• tongue and groove boards;
• fixed logs - as a base;
• screws (or nails);
• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• level;
• brackets or stops, wedges (or screw jack).

Step #1 - laying the first board

The first board is selected as flat as possible, equal in length to the length of the wall. The board is laid with a tenon against the wall, at a distance of 10-15 mm from it. This will allow the wood to expand freely when exposed to temperature and humidity. In the future, the gap will be covered with a plinth.

The first board is secured as firmly as possible by vertically screwing self-tapping screws tightly through the entire thickness into each joist. Instead of self-tapping screws, you can use nails, driving them into the board and joist with a hammer.

Step #2 - installation and joining of subsequent boards

The next board is laid next to the previous one. Using a hammer, through a spacer block, the groove is pressed onto the tongue. 3 more boards are laid in the same way, without fastening. At the bottom of the groove of the fourth board, holes are drilled at an angle of 45° above each joist. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the holes. Such fastening is temporary and requires re-laying the floor with fastening of each board (and not just the fourth) after the final aging of the wood.

To ensure tight bonding of the boards during fastening, they are tightened. You can do this in the following ways:

• Using staples and wedges. A bracket is driven into the joist 10-15 cm from the board. A wooden spacer is applied to the board - a piece of board 50-70 cm long. Two wedges are driven between the spacer and the bracket. The wedges are placed opposite each other with sharp ends. By hitting the free ends of the wedges with a hammer (or two hammers at the same time), the boards are pulled together. The tongues fit tightly into the grooves, leaving no gaps. Then screw in the screws.
• Using stops and wedges. The joining is carried out similarly to the previous method. The difference is that instead of staples, wooden stops are used. The stop is an ordinary block or board that is attached to the joist with nails or self-tapping screws. The distance from the top of the stop to the board being laid should be equal to the total thickness of the narrow parts of the two wedges.
• Using wedge-shaped compression with a movable bracket and wedges. The compression is fixed on the joist, between it supporting parts drive two wedges with a hammer. The boards are being joined together.
• Using a screw jack. A support board is nailed at a short distance from the floorboards being laid. The heel of a screw jack is rested on it, which is laid along the joist. The floorboard is pulled together through a piece of tongue-and-groove board (gasket).

Step #3 - laying the last row

The last board is laid in place, a wedge is driven between it and the wall. After joining, the board is secured tightly with self-tapping screws (nails) through the entire thickness. The wedge is removed.

If the last board does not fit in width, it is cut lengthwise circular saw. There should be a deformation gap of 10-15 mm between the wall and the board.

Repair of tongue and groove floors

Tongue and groove floors are quite reliable, but during use, damage to one or more boards may occur. Then they are taken out of the common monolith of the floor and replaced with new ones. To do this, the ridges of the boards are cut with a circular saw with a rounded blade end. You can also use a jigsaw or a hacksaw with a narrow blade.

Replacing boards is carried out according to the following scheme:

• Several cuts are made along the board to be replaced with a saw, jigsaw or hacksaw. The depth of the cuts is slightly less than the thickness of the board, that is, without through slots.
• Using a chisel, punch the ridges of the boards along the slots.
• Remove the damaged board and the remains of the ridge from the groove.
• A new board is inserted in place of the removed board.

Thus, by replacing damaged boards as necessary, you can extend the life of your tongue and groove floor for many decades.

Based on materials from the site: http://pol-master.com

Methods for fixing floorboards
Fixing floorboards with nails
Glue method
Fastening with clamps
Special screws for floorboards
Recommendations for installing floorboards

When arranging floors in a house, in addition to choosing the type of flooring, you need to be especially careful when choosing a method for attaching the purchased material. Each building material has its own fastening methods, including floorboards. Let's look at how to fasten floorboards using the most reliable and popular methods.

Methods for fixing floorboards

The floor covering experiences quite serious loads, so it is necessary to approach the choice of fastening method with all responsibility. If some floorboards are not secured well enough, then after some time they will begin to loosen.

As a rule, this happens after a short period of time. The floorboards move, the initially flat floor begins to make an unpleasant creaking sound, and often it simply collapses.

There are several most common ways to attach floorboards:

• secret method, that is, the use of screws or nails;
• using glue;
• fastening with clamps.

Fixing floorboards with nails

In this case, the floorboard is fastened to wooden base, which can be solid or made of lags.

The first row of floorboards is secured using nails, which are driven at a 45° angle through the tongue into the base. Then they are driven into place. You should pre-drill holes for fastening elements. This is done so as not to damage the ridges.

When adjusting the next row, the nails must be hidden. All subsequent rows of boards are fixed by driving nails through the surface.

When repairing a plank floor and replacing several floorboards, you need to ensure that all the floorboards end under the center of the crossbar. Otherwise, you may end up with a non-durable coating.

Glue method

If the floorboard is laid on a solid base, it can be fixed with glue. To do this, the grooves of the boards are coated with an adhesive, you can use regular glue PVA, and then placed on the tongues of the previous row.

The glue should be applied thin layer in increments of 50 cm along the entire groove. The final tongue-and-groove edges should also be coated with adhesive.

Fastening with clamps

Some types of boards come with special clamps that fit into a slot on the inside of the board. These elements are designed to connect boards to each other.

So, how to lay a floorboard using this method fastenings?

To do this, you should adhere to the following technology:

• Placed on the subfloor waterproofing material, which should be secured to the walls with construction tape.
• The clamps should be driven into the cracks of the boards laid in the first row using a hammer. This is done in the direction of the tongue.
• The ends of the planks are coated with glue, and then the first row is laid.
• Wedges about 1 cm thick should be inserted between the wall and the boards.
• Clamps are also attached to the second row of boards. The floorboards are secured in place by gently tapping a hammer through a block along the edges of the row.
• The remaining rows are laid out similarly.
• Then the wedges between the wall and the covering are removed.
• Installation of baseboards is in progress.

Special screws for floorboards

Professional craftsmen use special screws for floorboards to attach floorboards. The use of such fastening material allows you to obtain a reliably fixed floor covering with a fairly long service life.

Compared to conventional self-tapping screws, the cost of this type is an order of magnitude higher.

How to lay tongue and groove floorboards

However, in their properties they are more effective.

Special screws designed for floorboards have the following features:

• These fasteners are produced various sizes. Standard section 3.5 mm, length can be 35, 40, 45 and 50 mm. Depending on the thickness of the floorboards, the size of the screw is selected.
• This fastener for floorboards is not subject to corrosion, as it has a protective coating.
• There is a cutter at the end of the self-tapping screw, which allows it to be screwed into wood without pre-drilling holes. In addition, this structure allows the screw to fit more tightly, which means that the fixation of the floorboards to the base of the floor will be more durable.
• The self-tapping screw has a special milling cut. It has an angle at which fastener easily enters the wood and does not split.
• Self-tapping screws for floorboards have another structural feature, which is the absence of a threaded thread in the upper part. This design allows the floor covering to fit more tightly to the base.

Here are some tips on how to properly lay a floorboard:

• It is necessary to fasten the floorboards to the base using screws in increments of 25-30 cm.
• Some craftsmen recommend that before laying the floorboard and fixing it to the base, apply glue to it, which is used when installing parquet flooring. This option can be used if the waterproofing layer (for example, polyethylene film) did not fit. The adhesive fixation method cannot be used alone. It is used only as an addition to the main method of fastening using nails or screws. Without them, it will not be possible to obtain a strong and reliable fastening of the floorboards (read: “How to lay floors from boards - step-by-step instructions”).
• Along the entire perimeter of the room there should not be a tight connection of the boards to the wall. It is necessary to leave a gap between the wall and the floorboards of approximately 10 mm. It will act as an expansion joint.
• The screws used to install the plank floor can be completely hidden. To do this, the heads of the screws should be recessed into the wood by about 3-4 mm. The resulting holes can be hidden with pieces of wood that will match their shape and size. It should also be the same type of wood as the floorboards. Most companies that produce high-quality lumber complete their products with similar plugs.

The strength, reliability and service life of the floor covering will depend on how you lay the floorboard. Therefore, correct fixation of floorboards is a very important point in floor installation; therefore, it is worth approaching the choice of the method of fastening the boards with special care.

Installation of tongue and groove boards
Selecting boards
Base for laying tongue and groove boards
Installation of tongue and groove boards on joists
Repair of tongue and groove floors

Arranging a floor from boards cannot be called the easiest task - many difficulties will arise in the process. However, you can make the task easier by using tongue and groove boards instead of regular ones. They have tenons with grooves along the edges, which makes it possible to connect boards without the use of additional fastening materials.

Using tongue and groove boards will create an environmentally friendly floor without noticeable fasteners, with much less effort than installing a traditional plank floor. How to make a floor from tongue and groove boards will be discussed in this article.

Installation of tongue and groove boards

Structurally, a tongue and groove board is similar to a regular board, but it has a longitudinal groove on one side and a tongue (tenon) on the other side. Due to these elements, simple installation of a floor from a tongue-and-groove board is ensured: the tongue of the next one is inserted into the groove of the previous board, resulting in a reliable and tight connection.

Grooved boards, unlike edged ones, have an ideal smooth surface, so additional sanding of the floor made of tongue and groove boards will not be required. The underside of the boards is often not processed, but at the same time it is sure to contain ventilation holes, providing air circulation in the underground space, which significantly extends the service life of the coating.

High-quality laying of a tongue-and-groove floor allows you to assemble a structure without cracks, and such a structure will not creak and wear out, as often happens with a covering made of edged boards. Of course, if you lay wet boards or do not prevent moisture from getting on them, then sooner or later even the highest quality material will rot, so these nuances should be taken into account in advance.

Selecting boards

To install the floor covering, you must first decide how to cover the tongue and groove floor so that it is as reliable as possible. When choosing boards, you need to take into account several parameters:

Wood type

This parameter directly affects the quality and characteristics of tongue and groove boards:

1. Spruce and pine. The main quality for which coniferous trees stand out is their low cost. In addition, spruce and pine boards retain heat well, even in the coldest times.

   Among the disadvantages of such boards, one can note their poor wear resistance: any point loads, such as furniture legs or fallen objects, will immediately affect the wood. Also, softwood boards should not be used in high traffic areas.

2. Larch. Being a hard conifer, larch differs from spruce and pine in its durability and good resistance to moisture. In addition to its strength characteristics, this breed has good visual qualities, so it does not require additional varnish treatment.
3. Oak and ash.

   Boards made from these types of wood are distinguished by their utmost quality and reliability. Pleasant texture and noticeable shade are also advantages. The disadvantage, based on all the positive qualities, is obvious - oak and ash boards are much more expensive than their coniferous counterparts.

Board sizes

You need to select the dimensions of the boards depending on the size of the room in which they will be laid. It will be much easier and more convenient to lay boards whose length matches the length of the walls along which they are laid. The thickness of the boards affects their cost and reliability.

Standard sizes of tongue and groove boards range from:

• Length – from 1 to 6 m;
• Width – from 70 to 200 mm;
• Thickness – from 18 to 45 mm.

Quality class

This indicator allows you to select boards depending on their purpose and quality requirements.

Tongue and groove boards are divided into four classes:

1. Extra class (Eurospunt). Such boards are distinguished by the highest price, but at the same time they are distinguished by their uniform structure, shade and absence of flaws.
2. A-class. More cheap option, also free of cracks and knots, but may have an uneven shade.
3. B-class. This quality class allows for the presence of small stains and small cracks on the surface of the boards.
4. C-class. The cheapest material, which has all sorts of defects: knots, cracks and small single holes. As a rule, economy class boards are used to create a subfloor.

Humidity

This aspect is incredibly important for tongue-and-groove boards: poorly dried boards will certainly become deformed after installation and begin to rot, and eventually the entire floor will have to be re-laid.

It is for this reason that before attaching a tongue-and-groove board to joists or another base, you need to monitor the moisture content of the material using the following recommendations:

• A suitable moisture content for boards is about 12-16%. To determine this parameter, it is best to use a moisture meter, and if you don’t have one, you will have to use simple but effective methods:
• Lightly tapping dry wood will give a clean and ringing sound, while too wet wood will sound dull and almost inaudible;
• Wet boards usually feel quite damp to the touch. Well-dried boards do not give this feeling;
• A dry board usually has more light shade than wet. In addition, a dried board after high-quality processing begins to shine slightly, while a board with a high moisture content looks completely dull;
• If condensation collects on the inside of the board packaging, it always means the boards are too wet.

Base for laying tongue and groove boards

Having selected suitable boards, you can begin installing them, but before laying tongue and groove board floors, you need to take care qualitative basis, on which the tongue-and-groove boards can lie as securely as possible.

There are several types of grounds:

• Wooden logs installed on any base covering (screed, plywood or brick supports);
• Concrete screed;
• Moisture-resistant plywood;
• Old wooden covering;
• Rough coating made from economy class boards or other cheap materials.

Practice shows that best result laying tongue-and-groove boards on joists provides: this design has extreme strength and prevents possible deformation of the boards that occurs during use of the floor. Further we will talk about this option.

Installation of tongue and groove boards on joists

First of all, it is worth noting one nuance - tongue and groove boards must be laid in two stages. At the first stage, the boards are partially fastened (as a rule, one of the five boards in a row is fastened), and after about six months the entire floor must be re-laid, tackling the boards more tightly and attaching the tongue-and-groove board to the joists.

This technology is very important: the humidity of the boards in the room gradually decreases, and after a while gaps appear between them. It is for this reason that the boards must be laid again, securely fastening each of them - this will create a dense finishing floor, and the quality of such a coating will be extremely high.

You can install a tongue-and-groove floor with your own hands as follows:

First, the first board is laid. As the first board, it is advisable to choose the most even board that matches the length of the wall. It is laid tongue-and-groove against the wall, with a gap of about 1-1.5 cm - this way the wood can easily expand under the influence of temperature and moisture. Don't worry about the gap being visible - the baseboard will hide it. The first board should be attached as tightly as possible: screws or nails should fit tightly into the joist.

Further laying of tongue and groove floorboards requires installation and tamping of the following boards. Each subsequent board is laid next to the one laid earlier. Using a rubber block and a hammer, you need to knock the board so that the tongue fits into the groove. We must not forget that initially only every fifth board is attached to the joists. To temporarily secure it, you need to screw the self-tapping screw into the hole drilled in the bottom of the groove.

In order for the boards to remain in place when fastened, they must be properly consolidated using one of the following methods:

• Bonding with staples and wedges. At a distance of 10-15 cm from the board, a bracket is driven into the joist, and a wooden spacer about 60 cm long is applied to the board itself. Two wedges are driven into the space between the spacer and the bracket, and their sharp ends should be located opposite each other. By hammering in the free ends of the wedges, the boards are pulled together: the tongues fit into the grooves quite tightly, as a result of which all the cracks are tightened.
• Bonding with stops and wedges. The technology looks exactly the same as in the previous example, but this time the role of brackets is played by wooden stops (small bars firmly fixed to the joist). It is important that the thickness of the two wedges on the narrow side and the distance from the top edge of the stop to the board match.
• Wedge clamping with movable clamp and wedges. Having secured the compression to the joist, you need to drive two wedges between its supports, as a result of which the boards are pulled together efficiently and reliably.
• Screw jack bonding.

  Tongue boards for flooring

  Not far from the boards being laid, one support is nailed on which the jack will rest. As a result, the floorboard will be pulled together through the wooden spacer.

Having installed and moved all the boards, you can lay the last row. The end board is mounted in its place, and a wedge is driven into the space between it and the wall. When the board fits tightly into the previous rows, it must be firmly fixed with screws or nails. After this, the wedge can be removed. Naturally, it is necessary to leave a gap between the wall and the outer board for thermal deformation. When the last board is installed, the tongue and groove flooring can be considered complete.

Repair of tongue and groove floors

The tongue and groove floor is quite reliable coverage, but sometimes troubles arise: individual tongue-and-groove floorboards become unusable over time. If we are talking about one or more boards, then they can be removed from the floor and replaced. To do this, you need to cut the ridges of the boards with a circular saw that has a rounded end of the blade. The circular saw can be replaced with a jigsaw or a narrow hacksaw.

Replacing the boards directly is simple: making small cuts on the board, using a chisel to knock out all the ridges in them. The damaged board is removed, the grooves are cleaned of remnants of tenons, and a new one is installed in place of the board, and the flooring again performs its functions to the fullest.

Attractive appearance, resistance to external destructive factors, light weight and simple installation process - these qualities today ensure the popularity of tongue-and-groove boards, allowing them to compete with other modern building materials. Non-grooved boards are practically not used today - connecting fragments end-to-end as a result of operation will quickly lead to deformation of the surface and the formation of cracks.

What is the difference between a tongue and groove board?

The main difference between tongue and groove boards is the longitudinal protrusion on the edge of the board. The tongue, as the protrusion is called, has dimensions and configuration that allows it to fit tightly into the groove on the edge of the second board.

Depending on the material from which the tongue and groove board is made, it can be used:

1. For the subfloor - if the material used is soft wood coniferous trees, such as pine. Such boards have a fairly high moisture resistance, but after installation they must be opened with varnish.
2. For a finished floor - if high quality solid wood - oak or ash - was used as the starting material. It is more expensive, and its moisture resistance is average. Among the disadvantages of this material, it should be noted that it is unstable to the effects of fungi. The highest quality is considered to be a tongue and groove board made of larch. It is resistant to moisture and is not afraid of fungi and mold. Its cost is 2 or even 3 times higher than the cost of its analogue coniferous wood. In addition, larch boards are very decorative, have a beautiful pattern and a pleasant shade. It can be laid with or without varnish, but keep in mind that varnished boards will last much longer.

Because the wood materials tend to deform when drying, it is recommended to choose boards dried in an autoclave, with a minimum moisture content (up to 10%). Before you begin installation, you should keep it in the conditions of the room where it will be installed.

Commercially available tongue and groove boards range in length from 1 m to 5 m; when purchasing them, one should not forget that about 10% of the material may end up in scraps.

How to choose a quality tongue and groove board

Creating a beautiful and durable flooring depends on the quality of the material used and the efforts of the person installing it. Therefore, the choice of material is a very important task that will need to be solved competently. Since the design of a tongue-and-groove board involves installation with the tongue exactly fitting into the groove, the quality should be verified experimentally - after a slight click when connecting, the boards should form a perfectly flat surface, without gaps.

At correct processing wood during the production process, the board acquires high sound and thermal insulation characteristics. If the installation technology has been followed and the floor is cared for according to the rules, then it will serve for several decades.

Before purchasing a tongue and groove board, you need to correctly calculate its quantity. The dimensions of the room are taken into account, as well as the length and width of commercially available standard boards. Typically they have the following parameters:

• length - from 3 m to 6 m,
• width - from 70 mm to 145 mm
• thickness - from 28 mm.

It is quite difficult to select fragments that are optimal in size; if possible, it is better to contact the company that produces them and order sawing according to the drawn plan of the surface to be covered.

You should make sure that the board has low humidity - for any type of drying, natural or industrial, the optimal humidity range for high-quality material is from 10 to 16%. Humidity control is carried out by inspection - its surface after drying becomes shiny, the dullness inherent in raw wood should completely disappear. When tapped, it should make a ringing sound. When touching with your hand, there should not be a feeling of a wet surface.

The tongue and groove board is classified by quality - grade from A to C and Extra. For the subfloor, use a class C board, which may have knot holes and an acceptable number of black knots. Installation of Extra class tongue and groove boards involves the creation of a high-quality finished floor.

You can install a wooden floor on joists or on concrete surface. In any case, the base is leveled to perfect condition, cleaned of debris, and dried. If the floors are laid on joists, the wood will need to be treated with antiseptics. The logs are laid at equal intervals of 0.5 m, leaving a gap of 2 cm at the joints - this will prevent the possibility of the bars sticking out from each other. If the tongue and groove floor is laid diagonally, the distance should be reduced to 35 cm.

To ensure a long period of operation, good ventilation of the flooring should be ensured; voids under it should not be filled.

The fragments are fastened to the joists using self-tapping screws (3x40 or 3x35), holes are drilled for them every 0.4 m. The boards should be laid with their maximum tight fit, if necessary - with wedges.

A gap of about two to three cm is left along the edge of the perimeter of the room; the baseboard will close it. Solid boards should be laid on both sides of the room near the wall; they are fixed using horizontally screwed screws. When installing the central part of the floor, you can use shorter pieces of board.

To ensure a tighter fit of the elements, they are tapped with a rubber or wooden hammer, placing a wooden block between the board and the hammer to prevent damage to the ridge.

The tongue and groove boards are laid on a concrete base in a similar manner. This method will require a layer of waterproofing; moisture-resistant plywood 16 mm thick can be used as an insulator. Sheets of plywood are laid diagonally, the distance between them should be 2-3 cm, and gaps of 1.5-2 cm are also left near the walls.

To give the floor a perfect smoothness after installation, the tongue and groove boards are sanded.

How to lay tongue and groove boards

When constructing a floor in a room, it is customary to choose the option of orienting the boards parallel to luminous flux coming from the windows. When installing the floor in a corridor or vestibule, the boards are placed along the movement vector. Laying is carried out staggered or without displacement of elements.

When installing in a staggered manner, very careful trimming of each element will be required, flawless execution right angle may be challenging task for the person who does similar work with my own hands for the first time. Therefore, experts recommend acquiring a template and marking the sawing lines in strict accordance with it.

Along the perimeter you should leave a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the walls (the so-called expansion joints) at the end of the work they will be covered with a plinth.

The first board is laid with a tongue and groove against the wall; this will simplify the installation and fastening of the following fragments. When laying the second one, be sure to combine the tongue and groove. It is not recommended to use nails for fastening boards - their heads will begin to “come out” over time, and the nails themselves can be destroyed by rust. As we already mentioned above, it is better to use self-tapping screws.

The subsequent rows are laid in the same way, but it should be taken into account that for the fifth row you will need to use a full-size board. In this way the entire area of ​​the room is covered. Solid boards will also be required for laying the last two rows. For adjustment, if necessary, the last board is cut lengthwise with a circular saw.

Fastening can be done in different ways:

• without sloping the screws, then you will need to seal each cap with sealant,
• with a slope of 45º, this option looks more aesthetically pleasing. Fastening is also carried out along the entire perimeter, then the plinth is installed. Laying the boards begins after complete installation of the joists; the joints of the boards should be in the middle of the joists.

Next, the floor is prepared for finishing works: if the boards are smooth, then it will be enough to process them sandpaper(grit size 180), if there are significant defects, sanding will be required. This should be done carefully so that no chips are separated from the boards.

The final stage of work is to clean the floor from debris and dust; it is best to use a vacuum cleaner. Then the boards should be treated with a primer - it will increase adhesion. When choosing paints and varnishes, preference should be given to polymer one-component water-based compositions.

They dry quickly harmful substances And unpleasant odors at the same time they are not isolated. They are applied in two layers, the first should be thin, the second can be applied only after a couple of hours. This floor finishing will increase its moisture resistance and attractiveness. Promotion performance characteristics will significantly extend its service life.

A house made of tongue and groove boards - practical and convenient

Modern country house construction involves not only laying floors from tongue-and-groove boards, but also constructing houses from it. The thickness of the boards used to construct walls can vary. Low level board humidity (about 15%) allows for rapid shrinkage of the structure.

Among the advantages of houses made of tongue and groove boards, you should remember:

• high environmental friendliness,
• the opportunity to get significant savings on finishing,
• attractive appearance,
• sufficiently high thermal insulation and sound insulation qualities,
• the ability to get a structure of any size,
• the ability to use it as a material for walls, ceilings and floors,
• long service life.

Excellent for flooring natural material- tree. In order for it to be used for a long time, not to deteriorate from humidity, not to creak, it must be properly processed and mounted. The best option They consider the floor to be made of tongue and groove boards - without cracks, smooth, reliable. But how do you choose the material, how to make such a coating? It's simple: study the rules of selection and technology for performing work.

tongue and groove floor

tongue and groove board

Solid lumber with milled grooves and ridges that provide a gap-free surface. Thanks to this, quick fastening occurs, increasing the strength of the structure.

The connecting lock can be found on 2 or 4 sides of the product, and special bevels are made on the reverse side, allowing air to circulate inside the floor. The thickness of the boards is the same, so the floor is smooth, and the planes of the boards are sanded.

Attention! Cheap tongue and groove boards may only be processed on one side and may not have ventilation holes.

With proper installation of the material, there are no gaps, which prevents squeaks and wear.

Types of tongue and groove boards

• Spruce, pine: low cost, poor moisture resistance, requires mandatory varnishing. Reverse side It is recommended to treat with special protective agents.

Larch lumber

• Tongue-and-groove larch lumber is not exposed to insects and has good moisture resistance. This rock is not varnished, but the varnished material has a longer service life. It has a rich shade and beautiful structure. The disadvantage is the high price.
• Ash, oak: has average resistance to moisture, hard structure, wear resistance and high cost.

Advantages, disadvantages of tongue and groove lumber

The tongue and groove material has a sufficient number of positive qualities over others:

• The tongue-and-groove lock makes it possible to evenly distribute loads and increase service life.
• There are grooves on the reverse side for ventilation, which eliminates the possibility of fungus.
• The floor covering provides good heat and sound insulation.
• The locking connection makes installation of the flooring quick.
• Standard sizes, which speeds up the laying of tongue and groove boards.
• No chemical components are used in production.
• The floor covering looks great.
• The lumber provides a seamless finish.
• To tidy up the appearance after use, it is enough to sand (sand) and varnish.
• A floor using such materials fits into the interior.

Grooved flooring has disadvantages: the surface must be periodically coated with paints and treated with antiseptics. Another negative point- they are expensive.

Features of choosing a board

When choosing a material, attention is paid to the properties on which the durability of the flooring depends.

Wood species

Tongue-and-groove material for finishing coating is made from oak, larch, and ash - expensive types boards without errors, defects, with an even color shade.

Soft rock material is used to construct the subfloor. Such lumber has knots, cracks, and single holes in its structure. They are damaged even by thin heels, do not resist moisture well, but have a low price.

Blank size

Before choosing boards, you should determine the required length. To do this, measure the length of the walls and determine which wall will be laid parallel to. Add 10% to the total length for trimming the material.

The blanks must be equal to the length of the room; if this cannot be done, then they are spliced. The connection must take place on the surface of the lags, the smaller workpiece must be on the plane of 3 lags.

Tongue and groove boards are produced up to 6 m long, and blanks of 3-6 m are purchased for the floor. This allows you to select the length and reduce the number of scraps. For flooring, a thickness of more than 28 mm and a width of 7-14.5 cm is recommended.

Lumber moisture content

The humidity indicator at which deformation and warping does not occur is 12-16%. To determine this parameter, you need a moisture meter.

Attention! Very wet lumber can be identified by applying the palm of your hand, tapping the surface with your knuckles (dry wood has a loud sound), and by color.

Packing material

When the material is packaged in cellophane, they pay attention to condensation - drops on the film indicate damp wood.

Quality of the locking connection

To control the accuracy of the locking connections, you need to check how the tenon fits into the groove and whether there is a slight click when doing so. Check the grooves on the underside for ventilation of the flooring and how smoothly the top side is sanded. It is better to purchase lumber in packaging, where the safety of the goods is guaranteed.

Quality

Lumber is divided into quality classes:

1. Extra is a high quality material for installing a finished floor. It has no defects, the same shade and structure.
2. A – heterogeneity of structure and small deviations in shade are allowed.
3. B – there are isolated stains, cracks, knots, can be used for finished flooring.
4. C - suitable for making subfloors; there are knots, small cracks, and through holes on the surface.

Lumber bases

After choosing the material, they proceed to installation. The reason may be:

• Concrete screed.
• Wooden logs that are fixed to the covering.
• Moisture resistant plywood.
• Old floor covering.
• Rough floor.

Logs for mounting boards

The classic installation option is logs that raise the floor above the base. The logs have point supports in increments of 50 cm. A gap of 2 cm is made at the joints. They are laid at a distance of 60 cm when installed perpendicular to the logs. When they are laid at a different angle, the distance is reduced to 30 cm. Fastening with self-tapping screws.

Attention! Wooden floor good ventilation is necessary - the voids underneath are not filled.

The joists make it possible to efficiently tighten the boards, prevent deformations, and repair wooden floors where cracks have appeared. Therefore, this option is reliable for coverage.

Technology for mounting tongue and groove material on joists

Installation of the tongue and groove board covering is carried out in 2 stages. First, they are laid with fastenings on 5 boards, and after 6-12 months they are re-laid with fastenings for each. This must be done, as cracks appear and the flooring must be laid again. Installation includes pre-layout, final fastening, finishing.

Pre-installation:

Installation of tongue and groove planks

Important! The lumber is brought into the room where the flooring will be laid for a week to acclimatize the material.

• Choose a flat board along the entire length of the wall.
• They are laid with a comb to the wall at a distance of 1.5 cm. This gap allows the flooring to expand when there are changes in temperature and humidity.
• The first plank is fixed with self-tapping screws into all joists (nails can be used).
• The second is placed nearby, combining the tongue and groove. To connect tightly, you need to hit the end with a hammer through the block. This is how 4 more pieces are attached.
• Staples are hammered into the joists (bars are nailed), which are used for tightening.
• A block 5-7 cm long is placed on the logs, sliding until it stops.
• Wedges are installed between the bar and bracket, with their sharp ends facing each other. Instead of wedges, a screw jack is used.
• Before fastening, the planks are tightened by hitting the wedges with a hammer.
• Self-tapping screws are screwed into the bottommost bar, attaching the material to the joists.
• The floor is closed, securing each 5.
• The last plank is pulled together with wedges installed between the board and the wall. When it does not enter the gap, the excess part is cut off with a saw.

Final floor installation

tongue and groove floor

After six months or a year, the floor is re-laid. First of all, they inspect the floor surface for the presence of cracks and begin to repair it. To remove gaps, the flooring is re-laid, securing each tongue-and-groove board with self-tapping screws on the tenon side. When reinstalling the flooring, the covering is tightened.

Floor finishing

Varnished floor

Usually the front side of the boards is processed - there is no need to sand, but products made from soft wood should be sanded with special power tools. Processed in 3 directions. Afterwards, the coating is primed and each layer is sanded. The floor surface is cleaned of dust. To increase strength, the surface is varnished several times.

Tongue and groove boards are an excellent flooring option. The installation technology is similar to a construction set, so if you follow the rules and all processes, you can install the board yourself. The result is a high-quality, practical coating.

How to lay a tongue and groove board:

The construction market offers a wide selection of high-quality flooring. Despite their diversity, many consumers prefer wooden floors.

Wood has many advantages, the main one of which is its naturalness. But natural origin The material is its main disadvantage - wood is sensitive to changes in humidity and temperature. Under the influence of unfavorable factors, it swells, dries out, and cracks form between the lumber. Laying a floor made of tongue and groove boards can eliminate this drawback.

The correct choice of materials will allow you to increase the service life of floorboards. And you can get a perfectly flat, seamless surface if you lay the boards with your own hands in compliance with certain rules.

What is a tongue and groove board?

This definition applies to lumber that has a groove cut along one side and a tongue (tenon, ridge) along the other.

Thanks to this feature, when the tongue fits into the groove, providing strong connection, guaranteeing the absence of cracks.

During the production process, the material is dried and polished on both sides. In order to reduce the final cost of the product, lumber can be sanded only from the front side. Special grooves are cut on the back surface to ensure air exchange and prevent the formation of fungus.

Criterias of choice

When choosing lumber, the following indicators are taken into account:

• wood type;
• size;
• quality category;
• humidity.

Choosing a wood species

• pine, spruce;
• larches;
• oak, ash.

Features of pine and spruce

The main advantages of spruce and pine include the following indicators:

• low cost;
• elasticity;
• high heat capacity.

Pine and spruce grow throughout Russia. The pine lumber floor is pleasant to step on with bare feet. It remains warm even in the winter cold.

The disadvantages include the following:

• softness;
• high moisture absorption;
• susceptible to rotting and insect damage.

Such material requires a mandatory multi-layer coating with high-quality varnish that protects the board from moisture and other adverse factors.

Features of larch

Larch – conifer. Unlike previous options, it is characterized by increased hardness. Under the influence of moisture, larch does not collapse or rot, but becomes harder.

Larch flooring does not require varnishing. It is treated with oil impregnation, which preserves the natural texture of the wood. The main disadvantage of this material is high cost.

Features of oak and ash

Oak and ash are deciduous tree species. The oak floor looks very good. And it can last for several decades. Floorboards made of oak and ash do not require varnish.

Oil impregnation treatment is sufficient. However, laying tongue-and-groove boards made of oak and ash is not affordable for most consumers. The material is highly expensive.

Laying a wood floor from oak will require quite a bit of capital investment.

Size selection

The size of the material is determined by the following indicators:

• width (from 70 mm to 200 mm);
• thickness (from 18 mm to 45 mm);
• length (3-6 m).

The strength and durability of the floor depends on the thickness of the lumber. When laying on joists, it should be taken into account that the thinner the board, the smaller the distance between adjacent joists should be. The joists act as supports, preventing thin floorboards from sagging.

The choice of width depends on consumer preferences. Laying material that is too narrow will take a long time. It is also not recommended to choose floorboards that are too wide. The optimal width is 130-150 mm.

The length of the material should be slightly longer the room in which it is intended to be installed. If the room is too long, it is possible to join the floorboards on the joists.

Quality categories

• extra;
• class A;
• class B;
• class C.

Class A - first-class material. It includes lumber that does not have defects on the surface, but differs in structure and shade. Class B is established if there are small brown spots, knots, and cracks on the surface of the material. All three options can be used to finish the floor.

Class C includes third-grade material that has knots on the surface, a significant amount brown spots, cracks, through holes. Such boards are suitable for arranging a subfloor.

Humidity

Drying is one of the stages in the production of tongue and groove boards. Wood can be dried in autoclaves (chamber drying) and in natural conditions. Boards dried in autoclaves are of higher quality.

The optimal moisture content of materials should be 10-16%. This indicator guarantees that the boards will not shrink during operation.

Boards subjected to chamber drying, are packaged in polyethylene, which protects the material from environmental influences. During the selection process, you should pay attention to the following:

• when tapping on dried boards, a ringing sound is produced, while on wet boards, a dull sound is produced;
• the plastic packaging must be undamaged and there must be no condensation inside;
• high-quality factory boards have a light glossy shade, while raw floorboards have a dark matte shade.

Tips for laying floorboards

Installation features

The purchased material must remain in the room where it is intended to be installed for a week. During use, the boards can dry out, forming cracks.

Therefore, you need to lay the floor in two stages:

• First, every 4-5 boards are fastened;
• After 6-8 months, the floor is pulled together and each floorboard is secured to the joist.

During the drying process, wood can lose its attractive appearance. The initial fastening with the back side up will allow you to avoid unnecessary labor costs associated with grinding. After six months, the floorboards are turned over with the front side remaining clean.

You need to purchase material with a reserve, since during the process of shrinking and tightening several boards may not be enough.

Preparation for installation work

Most often, tongue and groove boards are laid on joists. The base can be a subfloor or brick columns.

Before starting work, you should prepare the following:

• logs;
• finished floorboards;
• screws for wood (the length of the screws should be 2.5 times the width of the floorboards);
• electric screwdriver;
• jigsaw or hacksaw with a wide blade;
• level;
• hammer;
• construction staples;
• wooden wedges.

Installation stages

On initial stage the longest board is selected (preferably it matches the length of the room). The floorboard must be laid tongue-and-groove against the wall, leaving a gap of 1-2 cm between the wall surface and the board.

The gap is necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of the wood. Wooden wedges are inserted into the space between the wall and the board. Upon completion of the work, the wedges will be removed and the gap will be closed with a plinth.

The outermost floorboard is secured with self-tapping screws along its entire length to each joist.

Next, take the second board and insert it with a tongue and groove into the groove of the laid floorboard. To press the boards as tightly as possible to each other, you should attach wooden block and tap through it with a hammer along the entire length of the floorboard.

3 more boards are laid in the same way. A hole is drilled in the lower edge of the groove of the fourth floorboard at an angle of 45-50 degrees. Through the hole, the board is secured to the joist with a self-tapping screw.

Next, we lay the remaining boards, securing every fourth one to the joist with a self-tapping screw. In most cases, the last floorboard has to be cut using a jigsaw. The width of the board is calculated taking into account the compensation gap. The floorboard is screwed along its entire length to the joists, and the wedges are removed.

After six months, the floor is dismantled and reassembled. During the laying process, the boards are pulled together and secured to the joists with self-tapping screws.

Methods of tightening

Floor screeding is done in several ways:

• wedges and staples;
• wedges and emphasis;
• screw jack.

In the first case, the bracket is driven into the joist at a distance of 1 cm from the floorboard. A pair of wedges are inserted between it and the bracket, which are driven in with a hammer. After tightening, the board is secured with self-tapping screws, the bracket and wedges are removed. The second case is identical to the first. The only difference is replacing the bracket with a wooden stop.

The jack is placed between the bonded floorboard and the joist. It is pressed against the floorboard through a wooden block.

The process of pulling together floorboards can only be avoided if you purchase “Extra” class lumber.

By covering the floorboards with impregnation or stain, you can get the perfect floor covering. The floor surface can be renewed by scraping and re-coating with impregnation or varnish.