Design, installation and elimination of possible malfunctions of the toilet cistern. How to repair a toilet cistern with a button

A broken cistern is a problem that everyone has encountered. The first thing we do when we discover this problem is call a plumber. This is the right decision if you don't know anything about plumbing and don't have any tools in the house. But if your hands are growing out of the right place, and there is a wrench in the pantry, then why not try to repair cistern yourself? After all, by doing repairs yourself, you save money and improve your skills.
How does the drain tank work, what kind of breakdowns does it have, and most importantly, how can it be repaired? You will find answers to these questions in our article.

Before you take action, you need to study a little theory and understand how the toilet flushes. Any model has two main parts: a bowl that stands on the floor or mounted on the wall, and a water container on top. This container is called the “drain tank”.

The operation of draining water is based on the principle of a water seal. When you press the lever (button), the plug opens and water is flushed into the riser under the influence of gravity.

If you remove the lid on the tank, you will find a water drainage mechanism. It consists of a float, a seal and levers. Conventionally, the mechanism of the flush tank can be divided into two parts: the water collection system and the drain mechanism.

When the button is released, the drain hole closes and water begins to fill. The float controls its level and closes the tap at the right time.

Of course, depending on the manufacturer, the design is slightly different, but the meaning remains the same.

Water collection system

The principle of operation of the filling fittings is simple: when the tank becomes empty, it starts supplying water, when it is full, it stops. A float is required to determine the water level. If you collect little or, conversely, a lot of water, you can adjust the desired level yourself. It is recommended to use a volume of 5-7 liters of water.
The fittings that regulate the water supply can be of several types.

With side water supply (fittings are located at the top). Basically, such a supply of water to the tank can be found in Russian-made toilets. The mechanism is cheap, but very noisy. On more expensive models, to reduce noise, a tube is attached that supplies water to the bottom.

With bottom water supply. This type can be found both on foreign models of toilets and on domestic ones. Thanks to the mechanism, water noise is minimized.

Bottom feed to cistern

Draining

Push-button flush mechanism
The drain mechanism is started either by pressing a button or by pulling out the stem. The most popular is the push-button version with a lever, which is shown in the photo. In toilets with a hidden cistern, the button is located on the wall. Therefore the repair wall hung toilet less convenient: all actions are carried out after removing the button through a small hole. The video shows the process of dismantling the fittings from the built-in tank (installation).

The push-button mechanism can be single- or dual-mode. There are two buttons in the two-mode drain: one drains the water completely, and the second drains it halfway. This allows you to save water when necessary. Also, a similar mechanism can be implemented with one button, when the drain depends on the degree of pressing.

Preparation for repair

First of all, let's inspect the internal mechanism for defects. To do this, remove the top cover; it is usually fixed with a drain button. You either just need to unscrew it, or pull out the button and unscrew the fastening screw.

Before repairing the cistern, be sure to turn off the water supply.

Replacement and fastening of parts

After you open the lid, you will see several holes with a diameter of 1.5-2 cm for supplying water (maybe only one). One of them will contain a filling fitting with a diaphragm valve.

The membrane is very sensitive to water quality, so its service life depends on water filters. If there are no filters at all, then it is better to replace the mechanism with a Russian one with a rod valve.

Most often, the issue of repairing a toilet cistern can be resolved by completely replacing parts. For expensive toilets, it is not difficult to find a repair kit with a bushing and membrane. On cheap models it is more profitable to buy new fittings; they are not very expensive. The main thing is to choose when buying required diameter pipes, usually they are 10, 15 mm, as well as 1/3 and ½ inch.

When replacing, you need to make a sealed joint, so put on a sealing gasket before fastening. The fittings are tightened to the tank with a nut. Do not tighten them too much, otherwise cracks may appear.

Decorative plugs are inserted into the remaining free holes. If necessary, you can change the position of the water supply. If the plug is simply inserted into the hole until it clicks, and is not held on to the nut, then there are no seals in it, so water will leak out if there is a malfunction.

At the bottom of the tank there are holes for attaching to the toilet. Fastening occurs on metal or plastic bolts. Bolts made of brass and stainless steel are best suited for attaching the toilet. Of course, ordinary metal fastener stronger than plastic, but quickly rusts. Before fastening, washers and rubber gaskets must be put on.

In the center is the most big hole under the water drain. The shut-off valve for the drain tank is secured with a cap washer through a gasket.

Common cistern breakdowns

The most common breakdown is continuous filling and leakage of water from the container. The reason for this is the following factors:

float misalignment;
the float mechanism does not work;
loose shut-off valve, old rubber seal.

The easiest way to solve the first problem is because in this case the toilet does not even require repair of the flush tank - just open the lid and adjust the float. Also, sometimes the shut-off valve does not fit into place; it is also easy to manually place it in the recess.

The next problem is that the water fills the tank to the limit and does not stop. To check the mechanism, lift the float up until it stops. If the water does not stop, the float mechanism will need to be replaced.

And the last point is the old seal. It is very simple to determine such a breakdown: you just need to press the valve with your hand. If the water stops, you will have to replace the seal. Also sometimes this is due to the locking mechanism being too light. In this case, weights are added inside to make it heavier.

Another common breakdown is associated with a worn float. Its seal is broken and it does not float well, so the water in the tank does not rise to the required level. You will need to replace the fittings of the drain tank, but you can fix the float yourself. To do this, its hole is sealed with sealant, glue, heated plastic or any other available material. You can also look at a plumbing store, perhaps they will have an analogue of this float.

Not very often, but such breakdowns do occur with the tank, such as: leakage of the tank mounting bolts and failure of the water supply valve. To eliminate them, just change the gaskets and buy a new valve.

The video shows how to repair a toilet cistern with your own hands:

Usually repairs come down to a maximum of replacing fittings, and this can be done yourself without calling a plumber. The main thing is to choose a quality product and right size, and then the sound of dripping and gathering water will not interfere.

If you are installing in your home new plumbing, including the toilet, be sure to pay attention to the correctness and reliability of the connection of all components equipment. The tightness of the connections of the nodes depends trouble-free operation devices.

A properly functioning toilet brings you into your home. high level comfort. However, any plumbing fixture can break. Troubles occur especially often in older devices. Poor water quality has a destructive effect on the components of the toilet flush system. Hard water with foreign impurities gradually damages equipment. Every homeowner should know how to fix a toilet flush tank.

Tank drain device

At first glance, the toilet flush system looks quite simple - it is earthenware or plastic container, automatically filled with water, which is then used to flush away sewage.

Main components of a toilet cistern

Fittings responsible for filling the tank with water
A mechanism that initiates draining water from the tank (rod/lever or single/dual mode button).

Such basic elements of the cistern are found in almost all models, even in old devices from the Soviet period. They may differ in materials and appearance, but their main tasks: control of intake and initiation of water flow remain the same.

The main types of toilet flush tank design are the float mechanism and the flush column.

The figure below shows the structure of a classic flush tank with a float mechanism. Such internal fittings were equipped with flush cisterns of the Soviet period and continue to be used today on devices with a side flush lever.

All main components of the cistern are interconnected. Damage to one element can cause the entire equipment to fail.

Repairing the float mechanism

One of the most common breakdowns of toilet cistern mechanisms is the constant flow of water. The reason is a malfunction of the float device, which should turn off the water supply to the container when it reaches a certain level.

The main reasons for this behavior of the float mechanism may be the following factors:

breakdown of the water inlet valve into the tank;
incorrect position of the lever responsible for turning on the drain mechanism;
incorrect float operation.

On older models, inspect the float. This is a hollow plastic container. From prolonged use, cracks may form in it. Then water from the tank penetrates into the float and it sinks. This type of unit is the easiest to replace - the float is usually attached to a screw with a nut.

In modern models of flush tanks, there is no hollow plastic float. The inlet valve is closed by another unit - a drain column, which is easier to replace entirely. Some models of drain columns have an adjustment mechanism that determines the filling level of the tank and the amount of water discharged.

Checking the operation of the tank inlet valve

To understand how correctly the valve closing mechanism in the tank operates, examine the lever located next to the valve.
Drain the water and watch the tank fill.
Move the rocker arm.
When the lever is placed in a certain position, it should close the inlet valve. If the lever is bent during operation, correct its configuration.
If the unit that allows the lever to move is jammed, replace it.

Another reason for constant drainage may be intake valve malfunction. In this case, despite the proper operation of the float mechanism, the tank is constantly filled with water and constantly drained. Valve failure can occur due to surges in water pressure in the pipelines. In this case, the valve is easiest to replace - it is a fairly simple device that can be found in almost any hardware store. Remove the valve and purchase a similar one. TO ok, you can read in our article.

A constant flow of water from the tank into the toilet can also occur due to cause of exhaust valve failure. This device is not worth repairing; it is better to replace it entirely with an identical one. If, after dismantling the outlet valve, it is discovered that the rubber siphon gasket has worn out, it should be replaced. This part is not expensive.

What to do if the toilet cistern is noisy?

The sound of water filling the cistern can cause discomfort in your household. This problem usually occurs in toilet tanks with an overhead water supply. This problem can be easily fixed in two ways.

In some models of tanks Inlet diameter can be adjusted. Reduce its cross-section. The tank will fill more slowly, but will not make annoying sounds.
You can also have several modify the internal fittings of the tank:

find a plastic or rubber tube about 30 centimeters long;
install it so that one end is put on the inlet hole, and lower the other to the bottom of the tank.
Now the water will not create a “waterfall”, but will silently fill the tank through the tube.

Replacing bolts in a leaking toilet

Most toilet cistern models are attached to the shelf using bolts that go through the bottom of the container. Metal bolts are susceptible to corrosion and may rot after a while. In this case, water will seep through the holes and drip onto the floor.

Bolt replacement algorithm

Close the water supply valve to the tank.
Drain the remaining water from the toilet tank.
We dismantle the inlet valve of the tank.
We remove both connecting bolts securing the tank to the toilet shelf.
The tank is on rubber cuff. Raise the tank and remove the cuff. If necessary, we replace it.
We clean the joints and free them from dirt.
We reassemble the equipment in the reverse order with the insertion of new bolts. When tightening the bolts, do not use excessive force to prevent the sanitaryware from bursting.
We check that the tank is working properly and that there are no leaks.

No water flows into the cistern

There are three types of faults that could be causing your toilet tank to stop filling with water.

On initial stage check the condition of the supply flexible hose. To do this, you need to turn off the water, disconnect the hose from the basque body and open the shut-off valve slightly, pointing the end of the hose into the toilet. Water will flow from a working hose. If water does not flow, the flexible supply hose must be replaced with an identical one.

Also, the reason for the lack of water supply may be inlet valve clogged. It may become clogged with impurities contained in tap water. You can try to clean the valve hole with a thin, long object.
The inlet valve may, for one reason or another, completely fail.. In this case, when unsuccessful attempts cleaning, the valve must be completely replaced.

Changing the internal fittings of the drain tank

Faults in the tank fittings can occur like an avalanche. In this case, you can not replace worn parts, but replace the entire internal fittings of the drain tank. Examine the design of the fittings in your tank. Drain tanks are available with various designs internal fittings. In particular, toilet tanks differ in the type of water supply - flexible hose Can be connected to the top, side or bottom of the tank.

Let's figure it out how to replace internal fittings on a tank with bottom water supply. To carry out this work, a minimum set of tools is required: spanners and pliers.

Close the shut-off valve.
Remove the water drain button. It can be unscrewed or fixed with clips.
Remove the top cover of the drain tank.
Unscrew the fastening of the supply hose to the drain tank and disconnect it.
Rotate 90 degrees and remove the top half of the drain column.
We unscrew the bolts securing the flush tank to the toilet.
Place the flush cistern on the toilet.
Unscrew the nuts securing the inlet valve and drain column, and dismantle the remaining part of the column.
We install the internal fittings of the tank and assemble the equipment in the reverse order.

Installing a new column

A drain column is placed in the empty tank. It is located above the outlet.
The drain column is fixed at the bottom with a threaded cuff.
An inlet valve with a fill adjustment mechanism is located above the inlet.
The inlet valve is fixed with a threaded cuff from the bottom of the tank

Eliminating leaks in the drain tank

To eliminate leaks in the tank, you must carefully check all threaded connections. You can put pieces under them toilet paper or paper napkins, on which even the smallest drops will be visible. If leaks are detected, the pipe connection is reassembled using additional sealing tape.

Replacing the drain tank

Any internal components of the toilet cistern can be replaced. But this can only be done if you find an identical device.

Every year, tanks with new internal fitting designs appear on the market, which may not be compatible with previous generations. In this case, after shopping around, you can decide to buy a new tank. It is easier to solve this issue if in your toilet the cistern and toilet bowl are made as separate structural elements. There are models of plumbing equipment in which the cistern and toilet bowl are made as a single unit.

The toilet tank must also be replaced if cracks are found in the sanitaryware. In this case, no repairs will help the matter; the destruction process is irreversible. A temporary measure may be to dry the tank and apply a thick layer silicone sealant to the crack area.

As you can see, the cost and duration of repairing a toilet cistern depend on the nature of the damage. Some faults can be eliminated by replacing elements of internal fittings. If cracks are found in the tank body, or it is impossible to purchase suitable fittings, you will have to replace the flush tank, and possibly the entire toilet set.

Video - How to fix a toilet cistern

Most common problem bathrooms is a malfunction of toilet tanks. Buttons sticking, slow filling of the storage tank, continuous leakage of water from an overfilled tank. There are all kinds of malfunctions.

These situations can arise for a variety of reasons. To open the real reason in each individual case, it is necessary to remove the cover. After determining the nature of the malfunction, you can perform a simple repair of a toilet tank with a button yourself, without turning to the help of plumbers.

We unscrew the drain button by hand, rotating it counterclockwise. No tools are required for this operation. Pull out the button and carefully remove the cover.

The push-button flush mechanism in the toilet tank is located in the lid. In addition to the main function, it serves as an element for fixing the stable position of the lid

Inside the drain tank there are two mechanisms, the parts of which may have a malfunction that causes a leak:

drain mechanism;
a shut-off valve responsible for the flow of water from the water supply into the container.

We carefully inspect the drain mechanism, assessing the height of the water level. If the water is in the overflow area, this indicates that the shut-off device is not holding.

The water in it is above the float, and therefore reaches the drain channel, through which it flows into the sewer system.

If the water level is at the adjusted height in locking device, then the leak is due to a malfunction of the valve in the drain mechanism. These are the two main reasons.

Repair of the drain lock mechanism

The water passes above the overflow device, which means that the drain valve is in working order, and the problem lies in the locking mechanism. We drain, emptying the container of water. Close the water supply valve to the system. Removing the device drain mechanism by turning it slightly counterclockwise. We take the removed part out of the container and inspect the condition of the rubber sealing ring, which is the shut-off valve of the drain mechanism. We make sure of its integrity. Set aside.

If this is not the case, then remove the ring and rearrange it reverse side, thereby ensuring a tight fit of the rubber to the surface of the bottom of the container. You can immediately install a new O-ring purchased from a plumbing store.

Second problem: plaque formation, mucus accumulation on the surface shut-off valve, which violates the tightness of this system. It can be eliminated by cleaning the part from deposits. Rearranging the ring is very easy. Remove the plastic lock washer. Take the rubber part, wash it thoroughly, then turn it upside down and press it with a washer installed in its original place.

Schematic representation of two methods of supplying water to a toilet flush cistern, showing the design differences in the design of fittings

We unscrew the water supply system and the locking mechanism. There are tanks with bottom water supply and top water supply, located in the side wall of the tank. The inlet hose is connected and the valve is located on top. Connection type does not matter important role, since the malfunction is directly related to the condition of the shut-off valve. Grains of sand and rust from the water supply system can get under the valve, which disrupts the seal of the locking ring.

In addition, the valve itself may become deformed during long-term operation. A manifestation of this is a specific recess formed on the sealing rubber. A part with such damage can no longer contain the flow of water from the water supply system.

A type of torn valve rubber that will have to be replaced with a new part, purchased in a store or made with your own hands from suitable materials

Let's remove the mechanism that controls the flow of water into the container. To do this, unscrew the large nut by rotating it counterclockwise.
We remove the removed device from the tank, temporarily putting it aside.
We are considering a membrane that serves to reduce the pressure of water coming from the system.
We wash the sealing ring removed together with the membrane from the inlet pipe.
Next, we proceed to disassemble the shut-off valve body, which was put aside for a while.
First of all, we snap off the float and remove it.
Then we remove the float body itself, moving the tongue that fixes the position of the part in the tank to the side.
Then we disassemble the location of the valve installation. To do this, take a screwdriver, pry it out on both sides, removing the valve with a “toward” motion.
We examine the socket from which the valve was pulled out, and we see a small hole, which it should close tightly when the tank is full of water.
The deformed valve looks like a miniature rubber band, in the center of which a recess is squeezed out, the size corresponding to the size of the hole that allows water to pass into the tank.
During the first repair, this rubber valve is turned over to the other side, which is smooth and even.
During repeated repairs, this rubber valve is cut with a sharp stationery knife strictly in the middle. First, the first deformed part is placed in the nest, and then the second - with the smooth cut side up. Thus, one valve can be used three times, each time turning the parts with a flat surface towards the hole through which the tank is filled with water.
You can strengthen the valve with an additional part cut from dense foam.
We install the valve back into place in the socket, securing it in position by pressing until it snaps into place.
We assemble all the parts in the reverse order: body, float, installation on the pipe, securing the device with a swivel nut.
When the valve is raised, it should extend the float 1 cm above the housing in which it is located. It is in this position that you need to fix the position of the float by snapping the locking mechanism.
We install the second part that covers the drain hole in the tank. With a sharp clockwise movement we fix it in its place. A characteristic click should sound.

Open the tap and start the water supply system. We monitor the process of filling the tank, paying attention to the moment the shut-off valve, which has been repaired, operates. As soon as the water overflowed into the float body and raised it by 1 cm, the water supply to the tank stopped. We put the lid in place and fix it with the water release button, twisting it along the thread of the part. drain device all the way in a clockwise direction. Let's see the results of the repair work. There is no uncontrolled flow of water from the flush tank in the toilet. The water meter froze, confirming that no water was being drawn from the system. We will perform a control drain to once again verify the positive result of the repair. The problem was fixed by hand. Money is saved because there is no need to purchase a new drain mechanism and shut-off valve.

You can learn more about repairing the toilet cistern flush mechanism with a button from the video.

Fixing a leak between the toilet tank and bowl

If, during flushing, streams of water appear from under the tank, this indicates depressurization of the drain hole. The gasket, which can be round or of another shape, depending on the model, is responsible for the tightness of the connection of the parts of the entire structure. The situation with water leakage can only be corrected by replacing the seal. Before going to the store, you need to remove the drain tank and take out the rubber seal. It is better to show the removed part to the sellers, who will help you choose a good replacement.

Sometimes it is better not to buy exactly the same seal, as it will fail again after a while. Manufacturers produce consumable parts from the latest materials, the quality of which is superior to previous products. Exactly like this sealing rubber bands and it's worth taking. Having installed the purchased consumables in place of the old gasket, install the tank in the reverse order of disassembly. We have already discussed above how to install the drain mechanism and inlet valve, as well as how to secure the tank to the toilet bowl.

Replacing the sealing gasket of the connecting assembly, done with your own hands at home with the assistance of an assistant for convenience

Slowly filling the tank with water

The low rate of water flow into the toilet tank is due to clogged filters. Repair work carried out in the following order:

by turning the tap handle, turn off the water flowing into the toilet from the cold water supply system;
unscrew flexible liner from the water supply valve to the toilet, located either below or on the side, depending on the model of the plumbing product;
in a clogged hose, remove the blockage and check the water pressure in the water supply by lowering the end of the flexible line into the toilet, if it is long enough;
otherwise, use a five-liter bottle to drain the water plastic bottle or a canister;
turn on the tap, if the pressure is good, then we proceed to clean the water supply valve from accumulated debris;
this part is not available in all toilet models, but if it is, it needs cleaning;
pull the filter out of the valve using pliers, grabbing the part by the small pin;
We wash the removed grate in the sink under running water. clean water from clogged solids and accumulated mucus;
then we put the washed filter in place, turn on the water and see if the problem is resolved or not.

View of a dirty valve removed from the water inlet mechanism into the cistern. After cleaning the part, water flows into the toilet bowl at a higher speed

If the problem is not resolved after washing the filter and flexible hose, then we wash the entire water supply valve by removing it from the tank, after first removing the toilet lid.

After all the described actions, the problem is usually solved. The algorithm for repairing a toilet cistern with a button in case of slow filling with water is clearly shown in the video.

Replacing cistern fittings

In the old toilet cistern, we dismantle the old fittings that have become unusable and install new system water supply and drainage. We purchase universal fittings suitable for all toilet flush tanks. To use water economically, we buy a two-button drain mechanism that allows you to change the volume of drainage depending on the type of human waste being flushed away.

In such fittings the manufacturer uses:

dual-mode push-button mechanism;
manual adjustment of the volume of small and large water discharge;
drain mechanism stand adjustable to the height of the tank;
changing the thrust by reinstalling the lever in one of the existing holes;
clamping nut with rubber gasket;
valve that closes the drain hole in the toilet bowl.

A mechanism for economical drainage of water from the tank, carried out using two keys, which are activated by a blue or white pin when one of the buttons is pressed

We will replace old fittings. To do this, unscrew the button holding the toilet lid and pull it out of its socket. Let's remove the cover. Let's shut off the water supply to the tank. Disconnect the flexible hose. Unscrew the screws holding the flush tank to the toilet bowl. Remove the tank and place it on the folding seat cover. Remove the rubber sealing gasket, and then unscrew the plastic clamping nut by hand. Then we remove the old drain mechanism.

Next, we install a new drain mechanism, having first removed the rubber seal from it and unscrewed the clamping fastening nut. After installing the drain mechanism into the hole in the tank, we fix its position with the removed parts. When installing the tank on the toilet, do not forget about the sealing ring placed on top of the plastic nut. Then we insert the tank pins into special holes in the bowl, screwing wing nuts onto them from below. We tighten the fasteners evenly on both sides, avoiding distortion of the installed part. If necessary, we replace fasteners with new parts with sealing gaskets.

Using two fasteners, the tank is securely attached to the toilet. At the bottom of the bowl, wing nuts are screwed onto the screws, and thin gaskets are first put on

When connecting the water hose to the side inlet valve, hold the part inside the tank from turning. Tighten the nut with a special wrench or pliers. Install the tank cap and tighten the button. If necessary, adjust the stand and move the lever.

The two-key button has two pins that activate the desired drain mechanism. The length of the pins reaches 10 cm. They are shortened to the required length depending on the height of the tank. Screw it into the button. Insert it into the lid and secure the position of the button from the inside with a nut. Install the lid on the tank. Turn on the water supply. Press the small part of the button, about 2 liters of water are drained. Press most button, about six liters of water are drained.

A button gets stuck or stuck: what to do?

To the listed faults cistern You can also add sticking or sinking of the button. This is when you press the button, release it, and it remains in the socket, so the draining does not stop. You have to press the button mechanism several times to return the button to its original position. The problem is solved by cleaning the buttons themselves from rust and dirt. Monthly use of cleaning products to maintain the sanitary condition of the buttons allows you to get rid of this problem once and for all. Some people just pour in a small amount. detergent directly into the push-button mechanism. Under the influence of special means, all dirt dissolves and the buttons do not stick.

A sinking toilet cistern button results in high water consumption, which is prohibitively expensive for the family budget.

As you can see, holding self-repair A toilet cistern with a button is quite possible. Having spent a little time studying the structure and operating principle of the valve mechanisms, you can repair the cistern without outside help. Of course, if plumbing work do not bring you any pleasure, then you should contact professional craftsmen, which will cope with any malfunction of the tank and toilet in a matter of minutes. Real professionals only need to take one look at the toilet to understand the nature of the problem. To troubleshoot a problem, plumbers usually always have everything they need with them.

Breakdowns of the cistern occur quite often and are very diverse. In order not to spend money on calling a plumber, it is enough to study the structure and operating principle of the fittings, and then independently eliminate any kind of malfunction and carry out repairs in a matter of minutes, using the simplest tool.

Typical device and main components

Modern models of drain fittings are compact, simple device and high maintainability. Despite the fact that different manufacturers There may be minor differences in the arrangement of parts, two general theses can be identified:

The vast majority of drain fittings can be easily disassembled by hand.
All devices use the same operating principle.

The drain valve consists of two units: an inlet float valve and a drain valve. Inlet units can be designed for the lower and upper connections of the water hose, which determines only the location of the float and the pattern of transmission of the closing force from it. Unlike outdated designs, where the float is made in the shape of a pear and is prone to loss of tightness, modern products supplied with double glass.

The drain valve is a vertical column located exactly in the center of the tank under the button. At the bottom there is an annular seat, which is covered by an elastic cuff. The closing force is provided both by the rod's own weight and by the mass of water in the tank. The valve opens when the rod is raised, connected to the button by a rack or lever mechanism.

Intake valve malfunctions

If the inlet valve does not close tightly, water will gradually fill the tank until its level reaches the overflow hole. Externally, such a breakdown is expressed in the appearance of a leak not immediately after the water supply to the tank is stopped, but some time later.

There are two variations of the locking mechanism: in the form check valve and a simple cuff. The second option is more reliable due to the simplicity of the device. In both cases, the principle of operation is extremely simple: when floating, the float raises a lever or rod, which exerts force on the valve with its reverse arm. The problem is that over time, the elastic cuff or rubber stopper takes the shape of the mating part, which does not contribute to high-quality locking.

Repairs cannot be carried out locally, so the inlet valve will have to be removed. It is mounted on a threaded bushing made of plastic. First you need to turn off the water supply tap and drain the water from the tank, then unscrew the drain button and remove the lid. Using hand force, you need to unscrew the union nut, which secures the entire valve structure to the bushing.

The problem with any type of valve is on the back of the small rocker arm associated with the rod or float arm. To make your task easier, unclip the float drive and dismantle them by disengaging the drive lever from the rocker arm. Next, you need to remove the rocker itself; it is usually seated in two holes of the valve body with two pins: you just need to slightly bend the ears and remove the miniature part. In reverse-acting valves, at the opposite end of the rocker arm there is a a plastic cup, inside of which a small rubber plug is pressed, resting against the water supply spout when closed. The cork can be pulled out and turned over to the spout with the flat side that does not have a groove. If this operation was performed previously, you can cut the cork to form two new, even ends, and then fold and press the two rubber parts back into the glass.

In diaphragm valves, loss of seal occurs either due to deformation of the rubber disk or due to insufficient pressure exerted on the valve by the float. You can adjust the position of the glass and place it lower; it will also help to attach a foam cube to the bottom of the float. If this does not help, install a new membrane from the repair kit. Simple form This part often allows you to make it yourself from a piece of a car inner tube. Before reassembling the device, do not forget to thoroughly rinse it to remove limestone deposits and rust.

Restoring the functionality of the drain valve

The entire drain mechanism is quite easy to remove after removing the cover, just turn it top part counterclockwise until it clicks (1/2 or 1/4 turn). The tightness of the drain hole can be restored in several ways. If the valve membrane has a symmetrical shape and is noticeably deformed (the edges are bent upward), it is removed and installed back on the other side. First, it would not be superfluous to restore the elasticity of the rubber by holding it under running hot water for several minutes.

If the membrane cannot be turned over or there is no point in doing so (the edges are even), most likely the insufficient tightness of the valve is due to a low degree of compression. It can be recommended to increase the vertical stroke of the rod, for which you need to carefully examine the place where it fits in the glass of the outer casing. Typically, the downward movement of the rod is limited by the side ribs or other structures on the outside tubes. The recipe is simple: use a file or knife to sharpen the stops by 2-3 mm. The second way is to increase the weight of the piston, for which several large nuts are attached to its upper part or wrapped with 10-20 turns of thick copper wire.

A loose membrane fit in the seat may be a result of limestone or organic deposits both on the rubber disc itself and on the mating part. Use the rough side of a sponge and a small amount of dishwashing detergent to remove green organic residue. To remove limescale, use a special cleaner or regular vinegar. In order not to disturb the planting density, it is better to abandon the idea of scraping off deposits with a knife.

Button and mechanism repair

The valve stem lifting mechanism is the least problematic thing, although problems do occur with it: jamming, insufficient stroke, or simply lack of impact on the stem.

In older versions of the valve, a not very convenient and not the most reliable scheme was used: the button pushed a rack, which rotated a gear with a long lever attached to it. The membrane was lifted through a chain attached to the end of the lever. Problems were solved by increasing the tension of the chain; also, over time, the teeth on the rack worked, and it had to be turned over.

In modern drain valves it is mainly used lever mechanism, which is practically trouble-free. The only problem can arise from poor alignment: after installing the cover, you need to make sure that the threads on the drain valve body are located exactly in the center of the hole. If this is not the case, the situation is corrected by moving the upper thrust plate of the microlift a few clicks in the desired direction.

Repairing leaks

In some situations, the appearance of water on the floor may be the result of a leaky tank on the toilet shelf. First you need to wipe all surfaces dry and find out exactly where the leak occurred.

If, during an external inspection of the inside of the tank, the presence of rust was noted on the bolt heads, this is most likely the cause of the leak. It is necessary to drain the water from the tank and unscrew the plastic nuts from the bottom. After this, the bolts are replaced with new ones, if necessary, also replacing the sealing washers. To protect the bolts from corrosion in the future, you can coat the caps with regular enamel or sealant, but do not use silicone for this purpose.

A leak can also be caused by looseness of the drain valve seat nut. The tank will have to be removed completely and the condition of the sealing rings, as well as the sealing gasket under the tank, will be assessed. If there are cracks or loss of elasticity, these elements must be replaced with new ones.

Procedure for complete replacement of fittings

In cases such as destruction of reinforcement parts or heavy wear seats parts of the mechanism, we can only recommend complete replacement fittings. The whole process will take about half an hour:

Turn off the water supply and drain the tank.
Unscrew the button and remove the cover.
Unscrew the inlet valve nut and unclip the upper part of the drain mechanism by turning it counterclockwise.
If an identical set of fittings is used for replacement, it is not necessary to replace the lower parts.
If it is necessary to replace the lower part of the drain valve, remove the tank mounting bolts.
Unscrew the wide clamp nut from the bottom side and remove the bottom part of the drain mechanism.
Install the new saddle with threaded coupling sealing rings on both sides.
Secure the tank in place.
Install the new inlet and drain valves, center the neck under the button, and complete the reservoir assembly.

To eliminate any problem that arises in the operation of an old-style toilet, it is enough to know how the flush cistern works and the tricks for fixing it.

Design Features

An advantage for us, as home plumbers, is the fact that many models on the plumbing market are based on the same operating principle.

You can always open the toilet tank yourself

Despite modern age technologies and various manufacturers, Russian production toilets are no different from the European principle. Due to the consistency and quality of the cistern design, production technology has not changed for many decades.

The cistern is made from the following materials:

cast iron;
plastic;
ceramics;
faience.

In themed expensive hotels or villas you can find products made of marble and even granite. We are all familiar with the above materials, in particular, cast iron and ceramics. Earthenware is not so practical and reliable, and plastic, even more so, will not last more than two or three years.

A container for storing water, regardless of the material of production, is mounted in different ways:

the tank is mounted right under the ceiling of the bathroom;
the container is mounted on the toilet itself;
the flush cistern is embedded directly into the wall behind the toilet, hiding behind a full wall or box made of plasterboard or ceramic tiles.

The old-style drain tank was installed according to the first two options. Nowadays you rarely see it under the ceiling, but directly on the toilet structure - yes, in almost every home.

The basis of the direct operation of the water tank is performed by shut-off valves, which are responsible for the timely filling of water and its drainage at the right time.

Auxiliary functions are performed by control parts: a button, handle, keys or other mechanism responsible for partial and complete drainage of water directly into the toilet.

When we use one of the controls, that is, press the button, the drain siphon is unlocked, and the water, in turn, leaves the container under decent pressure. The outlet valve then closes again and the inlet valve automatically opens and draws in water.

When the water level reaches the maximum permissible level, the shut-off valve automatically shuts off the water.

Design of a simple toilet cistern

The working condition of the drain tank is as follows: the tank is full of water, the outlet and inlet valves are closed, and water cannot enter or leave the tank.

We indicated general points old style toilet cistern.

Not many of our compatriots are in a hurry to change the good old one, and most importantly, durable design still Soviet-made for a modern ceramic model, which does not inspire confidence.

Characteristic features of a Soviet-style toilet:

manufacturing materials: cast iron or earthenware;
the drain lever is located on the left or in the center of the product;
water supply is exclusively lateral.

As for the aesthetic part, we can say this without comment. Indeed, at that time they did not particularly care about beauty; the toilet played an exclusively practical role.

Shut-off valves, presented in the form of a drain mechanism and a kind of automatic machine, were responsible for supplying water to such a tank. And the drainage of water was even more interesting: a wide outlet siphon, covered with a plastic or rubber valve, the mechanism in appearance resembles a plunger.

Toilet cistern design

Water is drained using a rod, which can be attached to the side lever or displayed on central part covers.

Shut-off valves with a push button are connected by means of a lever with a plastic float, which moves in vertical plane throughout the entire tank capacity.

When the internal volume of the tank is filled with water, the float rises and the lever rotates, thereby increasing the pressure on the intake valve stem. As soon as the degree of pressure on the rod equals the water pressure, the valve closes. In this case, the toilet cistern of the previous model is ready for use.

The advantage of a Soviet-style toilet cistern is the absence of many small parts and springs. Similar feature allows even home plumbers to adjust or repair shut-off valves.

Replacing broken parts is quite easy

Perhaps now such a mechanism seems primitive and outdated to you, but its quality and reliability exceeds any indicators of modern models.

Disadvantage of an outdated toilet: due to design features and more relaxed requirements for water flow, shut-off valves cannot be replaced with a new mechanism. All you have to do is try to repair the device so that the fittings do not let water through and do not waste it in vain.

There is always a radical solution - this is buying a new toilet with modern model drain tank, which is less troublesome and simple, but expensive.

The modern plumbing market is rich various models, satisfying our high aesthetic and practical needs. Of course, the toilet of the previous model is practical and reliable like no other, but today such products are no longer produced, and the models installed in our homes are becoming obsolete.

Toilet design for a better understanding of the problem

Gradually, old toilets begin to fail: they do not fill with water, they drain too much water, they lose their appearance and turn yellow. All you have to do is choose what you can do: study materials for repairing an old toilet or save up for a new model.