What and how to finish the slopes of the front door from the inside? How and with what to sheathe a door yourself. What is the best way to sheathe a street door from the outside.

From this article you will learn:

What are the features of interior decoration front door

How to properly trim an entrance door opening

What to consider when finishing the arch and installing the front door trim

Doing major renovation in an apartment or private house, it is worth thinking about high-quality and beautiful interior decoration of the front door. But not everyone can figure out what needs to be done and how. There are many materials, methods and options for finishing, and not all of them are suitable for your door. In this article you will learn how to decorate the interior of an entrance door.

Basics of interior decoration of a metal entrance door

The designs of metal entrance doors are different, and their appearance, both inside and outside. There are several parameters by which owners choose finishing materials:

1. Own preferences and desires.
2. Will you be able to finish the entrance structure yourself or will you have to hire specialists?
3. Interior decoration in your apartment/house. The door must match the decoration of the room.
4. Additional requirements such as sound insulation, thermal insulation, tightness.

When thinking about buying an entrance door, apartment owners want to purchase something original, different from standard models. But not everyone understands that the capabilities of the companies manufacturing these structures are largely limited. The choice of metal door designs is especially small. With wood, things are better in this regard.

Manufacturers of metal doors initially make them with good finishing, both internal and external. The coating material on the outside and inside is different, but the color and style can be chosen the same. The palette of colors and textures is very different, so everyone potential buyer will find the design that suits him and suits the style of the facade, hallway and adjacent rooms.

There are many finishing options, the most common are:

• laminated fiberboard, or laminate, but this option is used only for interior decoration;
• powder coating applied to both sides of the door;
• MDF boards, both sides are also lined with them;
• the most common painting;
• substitute for genuine leather synthetic materials, leatherette;
• wood. This could be the cheapest lining or more expensive oak.

It happens that after renovation, you no longer like the interior decoration of a metal entrance door, does not fit the interior, or looks morally outdated. In addition, problems may also arise in the fact that the door lets in the cold and needs insulation. In this case, facing the front door will help. Moreover, you can do it yourself; it will be several times cheaper than buying a ready-made insulated structure.

There can be many purposes for additional interior decoration of the entrance door in an apartment, for example:

1. Improve those properties and functions of the door for which it was specifically created (insulate, for example).
2. Change the color or style of the front door.
3. Mask scratches, cracks and other defects on the door.
4. Additionally protect the metal structure from corrosion.

There are enough different ways to solve this problem that you can choose the right one. In most cases, self-insulation of a metal entrance door is done using polystyrene foam and then finished with vinyl leatherette. Sometimes manufacturers immediately cover the door with clapboard or laminate.

There are also private workshops that produce metal and wood entrance structures. At such factories, if desired, you can order the product individually. The door can be finished expensive materials, for example natural leather or oak. It's not cheap, of course.

Cheap entrance doors from unknown companies (usually Chinese) often only look high-quality and durable. But in fact, they are made of thin tin, the lock on such doors can be easily cut with a primitive tool, and in addition, in cold weather it can freeze. There is no need to talk about the heat-saving ability of such a design. In Moscow, you shouldn’t risk your safety and comfort just to save money.

It is important that the external decoration of the front door is of high quality: durable, withstands the influence of climatic factors, as well as good lock. It would be nice if the door at least looked like this - strong, bulletproof. It happens that they make two panels on one door frame. In this case, the second of them can be wooden on a metal frame.

A single, non-insulated entrance door will allow heat to pass through. If it is installed in a private house, then in frosty weather frost will appear on the inside of the door and the lock will freeze, as a result of which the door simply will not open. But residents of apartments in multi-storey buildings, since it’s not as cold in the hallways as it is outside. It should be noted that such shortcomings do not occur with high-quality expensive doors.

Recommendation: If your lock sometimes freezes in winter, then it’s worth purchasing antifreeze liquid. It is injected in a small amount into the keyhole, but this product cannot be used constantly.

The most common materials used for interior decoration of apartment doors are natural wood (board or lining) and other veneered materials based on it. But they are quite expensive. Budget options mass-produced entrance doors often have various hidden defects: the door leaf itself is not solid, but welded from pieces; there may be other foundation imperfections underneath the interior finish; bad insulation. A good front door should not only be reliable and strong, but also sufficiently insulated. In addition, you need to take care of beautiful interior decoration and design of the threshold and slopes.

Methods for interior finishing of arches and installation of front door trims

Even if the door is unusual, original and not the same as everyone else’s, arches and trim are still installed. There are two options for doing this job.

Frame installation

A frame is constructed from wood, and all cladding elements are attached to it. The frame rests on a solid surface and is covered with panels.

Advice: Before fixing wooden slats, they should be treated with an antifungal liquid, preferably with deep penetration. The solution is applied in two layers. This procedure will significantly extend the life of the frame.

If you want to do the interior decoration of the front door yourself, first you need to measure the height of the fastening of the trim or arch parts. This is done using a level and a level rod.

We cut the slats to the required length and fix them to the wall with a hammer drill using dowels. You should not use dowels from the kit; it is better to buy plastic dowels separately and select self-tapping screws for them, the diameter of which will be a couple of millimeters larger. This way the connection will be more reliable, because in the future the structure will experience loads and vibration, it is better to immediately make it strong.

Important! When performing interior finishing of the entrance door slopes and the door leaf, it is necessary to accurately determine the height of the slats. It must be taken into account that the slopes in relation to the door leaf can be perpendicular or located at an angle.

It is very important to correctly measure all the parameters of openings and slopes, no matter what kind of door you are finishing - metal or wood. If you make a mistake with the dimensions, there is a high probability that the door you ordered will not fit you. And in the case of MDF, for example, it will be impossible to change or adjust it.

The finishing of the door is completed by fastening the panels - lining or laminate. The experts give advice on how to do this correctly:

1. The panels are fixed with self-tapping screws. But there is one subtlety: first you need to make a hole with a drill, and then screw in the self-tapping screw. It must be recessed into the panel, thereby hiding the cap. Then plastic plugs are placed on top, which should be purchased in advance and selected by color.
2. When finishing with clapboard, the screw head is sealed with putty. You can either buy it or make it yourself by mixing PVA glue with fine sawdust. This area needs to be polished when it dries.
3. When decorating the interior of an armored entrance door, it is worth considering its weight. When using sealing rollers, they must be soft and elastic enough so as not to create additional load on the door frame and at the same time easily return to starting position after compression. If you make them too hard, they will loosen and move the box.

The cost of such interior decoration of an entrance door varies over a fairly wide range, but the installation rules are always the same.

Installation without frame

Finishing in this way is done if the space for the door is limited, there is simply no room for the frame.

Sequence of work:

1. It is necessary to prepare the surfaces - clean, level.
2. Then the panels are mounted using glue or dowels.
3. The gap remaining between the wall and the cladding is filled with construction foam.

Important! Before installation, it is necessary to draw the level of fastening of the panels in order to correctly maintain the plane.

To finish a door or window opening, you can use siding and other available materials.

For each door finishing method there are certain rules. If you adhere to them and strictly observe them, the work will be of high quality and durable.

Plaster

The classic version known to everyone. The wide popularity of plaster is due to its advantages:

• long service life, which lasts for decades;
• strength if you use really high-quality mixtures;
• maintainability. If necessary, you can easily restore any damaged area;
• acceptable price. Plaster is usually the cheapest material.

Plaster mixtures make it possible to obtain a durable surface that is resistant to various types of influences. The main thing is to use the plaster correctly, and then it will last a long time.

Before applying plaster, the surface should be prepared. It must be cleaned of dirt and dust, all defects removed, and cracks covered.

Using a small amount of plaster, beacons are installed, and, if necessary, a wooden batten is laid around the perimeter. It will be needed to determine the thickness of the layer and serve as a guide.

The reinforcement mesh is attached to the dowels. It will provide the greatest reliability to the plaster layer.

If some areas will not be plastered, then they are covered with cardboard and masking tape so as not to get dirty.

The mixture is prepared in the right proportions and applied with a spatula to all areas. Using a level, you constantly monitor how smooth the surface is.

Advice! If it is necessary to apply a layer of more than 10 mm, then the work is performed in several stages. The reinforcing mesh is applied when applying the 2nd or 3rd layer.

When the plaster dries, the beacons and slats are removed, and the places where they were located are coated with the remaining mortar. It is necessary to install perforated corners at the corners of the walls and also plaster them.

Drywall

Drywall is best used when all the walls in the room are covered with this material. But it is also possible to make separate gypsum board cladding when finishing the interior door slopes. But this material is very fragile, so you should be extremely careful when working with it.

First, surface preparation is carried out, but it may not be as thorough as in the case of plaster. Serious defects are simply corrected.

Afterwards, measurements are taken and recorded on a sheet to create details. To avoid large errors, take measurements twice.

In accordance with the recorded dimensions, the slab is cut using a sharp construction knife.

Be careful when cutting the slab, do it only with a well-sharpened sharp knife. Let us repeat, drywall is a very fragile material.

GKL parts are fixed with putty or polyurethane foam. When using foam, incorrect distribution can lead to further defects on the surface, although the job is much faster than with putty.

Foam is applied to the underside of the sheet in a zigzag pattern. Elements are attached to the surface, but are immediately torn off. After ten minutes the final fixation is carried out.

When facing with plasterboard, joints and edge gaps are inevitable; they must be treated with sealants and plastic corners installed.

Drywall can be further decorated to your own taste, for example painted.

Paneling

You can also complete the interior decoration of the entrance door in an apartment using panels. This is a very simple method, the technology of which has much in common with installing drywall. But there is another option with pre-sheathing. At the same time, it is possible to additionally insulate the front door.

Installed vertically around the perimeter as a frame wooden beam on dowels.

Advice! Before installation, it is necessary to treat the slats with antiseptics, which will prevent rot and mold from developing.

Next, the panels are cut to the appropriate size. Insulation is placed in the free spaces between the slats. This must be done carefully so that there are no empty spaces left. The panels are fixed to the frame slats. To do this, you can use both glue and screws.

For the interior decoration of the entrance door in an apartment, panels made of MDF or thick plastic are better suited, since cheap PVC panels look ugly.

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Photo options for finishing the inside of the front door

During the installation of the front door, the need arises to finish the opening. Sealing of slopes is required both outside and inside the doorway.

• for decorative sealing of door fastening points;
• to provide additional sound and heat insulation of the entrance group;
• to create a smooth aesthetic transition from the door leaf to the interior decoration of the hallway;
• for masking box fastening elements;
• for elimination minor defects(cracks, chips) that appeared during the door installation process.

Pros and cons of finishing slopes

Finishing door slopes can be made from various materials. To choose the appropriate option, you need to consider the positive and negative qualities each of them.

Laminate. Non-standard solution for finishing slopes - laminate.

The advantages of this solution include:

• strength of laminate construction;
• wide selection of colors and textures. It is easy to select a material that fits into overall design hallway;
• laminate retains heat well;
• Easy to clean the laminate surface from dirt.

The disadvantages include:

• poor sound insulation characteristics;
• laminate loses its strength characteristics at high humidity and sudden temperature changes;
• limited service life, no more than 15 years.

Plaster. Plastering door slopes is a traditional method of solving this problem, which has been used for centuries. Positive aspects of using plaster:

• low cost;
• increased strength of the slope structure compared to other methods of finishing the opening;
• the plaster layer is insulation;
• plaster does not change its characteristics with increased humidity and temperature changes;
• service life of at least 30 years;
• easy to clean.

Negative aspects of using plaster:

• When performing work, a large amount of dust and dirt is generated;
• To obtain an acceptable result, you need experience as a plasterer;
• lining slopes with plaster takes a lot of time;
• finishing can be started only after the mortar has finally gained strength (after 28 days);
• limited finishing options (painting, wallpapering).

Can be used as a finishing layer decorative plasters, but the cost of this material is quite high.

Clapboard. If the slopes are sealed using lining, only one positive aspect is revealed - the beauty of natural wood. Otherwise, the lining shows only negative results:

• the structure of the material does not fit easily into the overall design of the hallway;
• this material is not suitable for sealing small slopes;
• thin lining can hardly withstand changes in humidity;
• when installing the lining, it must be impregnated with antiseptic and fire-fighting agents;
• high cost of class A lining, which is recommended for interior decoration.

Considering the high cost of the material, comparable to solid wood or natural stone, it is not recommended to use lining for sealing slopes.

A stone. With the advent of a large number of finishing materials made of natural stone, it became possible to use it to decorate the entrance group. Not only inexpensive sandstone tiles are installed on slopes, but also noble marble and granite.

Stone finishing has the following advantages:

• Installation of panels requires minimal surface preparation;
• laying technology natural stone does not cause difficulties even for novice finishers;
• natural texture goes well with any interior decoration;
• the stone does not change shape with changes in temperature and humidity;
• natural stone is not subject to combustion;
• the stone does not emit harmful fumes;
• surfaces finished with stone are highly durable;
• The service life is practically unlimited.

Natural stone also has disadvantages:

• high price;
• stone processing requires special tools and experience.

PVC panels. Any novice finisher can install slopes on the front door with his own hands using PVC panels, but ease of installation and low cost are the only advantages of this material.

Disadvantages of plastic panels:

• choosing the right texture from PVC panels for massive metal doors is not easy;
• plastic panels do not have sufficient strength and often become deformed if handled carelessly.

MDF panels. IN modern apartments You can often find extensions made from MDF panels. This material has the following positive characteristics:

• MDF panels can withstand medium impact loads;
• Manufacturers offer many color options for this material;
• To install panels, it is not necessary to have extensive experience; the work can be done by one person;
• MDF panels protect the interior from noise and retain heat well.

There are also negative features of panel finishing:

• In terms of cost, MDF is ahead of many materials, second only to natural stone and wood;
• the surface of the MD is easily damaged by sharp objects;
• difficulties arise in removing contaminants;
• The MDF panel is afraid of high humidity.

Tree. Natural wood, properly processed, looks great in any interior. pros wood finishing slopes:

• long service life;
• strength, minor damage can be easily repaired with putty;
• wood is an excellent insulator;
• natural, pure material;
• easy installation.

Disadvantages of wooden finishing of slopes:

• high cost of material.

Drywall. It is easier and more practical to seal the slopes with plasterboard. This material has the following advantages:

• low cost of material;
• high thermal insulation and sound insulation properties;
• installation does not cause difficulties for novice finishers;
• using drywall, you can cover slopes of any configuration;
• long service life.

Disadvantages of drywall:

• hygroscopicity, even of waterproof products;
• The gypsum board must be covered with finishing;
• GCRs do not withstand shock loads well.

Instructions for finishing slopes with your own hands

Finishing the slopes of the entrance door from the inside, depending on the type used finishing material, produced by various technologies. About them - below.

Plastering

Before finishing the slopes of the front door inside the apartment with plaster, you will need to purchase following materials and tools:

• cement-sand mixture;
• primer for concrete;
• perforated corner;
• finishing material (paint, wallpaper);
• plaster spatula;
• rule;
• container for preparing the solution;
• half-grater

Slope finishing works plaster mixture are performed according to the following step-by-step algorithm:

• The surface is cleaned of dirt, excess polyurethane foam and fragments of old plaster.
• The prepared surface is impregnated with primer twice.
• Perforated corners are attached to the corners of the slopes with putty, which, in addition to strengthening the corner, serve as a guiding beacon during plastering.

• Installed at the door frame metallic profile on self-tapping screws. This is the second guide, the lighthouse.
• The door leaf and frame are covered with film.
• The first layer is applied to the surface - spray, 1-2 mm thick. The spray solution is prepared in a 1 to 1 ratio.
• The next layer (primer) is applied after the first has dried. Its thickness should not exceed 30 mm.
• The final leveling is carried out with a covering layer 2 mm thick.

• After drying, the plastered surface is leveled with a trowel.
• Finishing of slopes with paint or wallpaper begins after the plaster has completely dried, after 28 days.

You can read more about the plastering process in.

Laminate

Laminate is intended for organizing flooring, but, in some cases, craftsmen decide to use it for finishing slopes. To properly mask slopes using laminate, you will need:

• laminate boards;
• polyurethane foam;
• primer for concrete;
• hacksaw;
• yardstick;
• brush for applying primer.

Instructions for installing laminate when finishing slopes:

1. The base for installing the laminate is leveled using plaster mortar.
2. The leveled surface is impregnated with primer twice. The second layer is applied only after the first has dried.
3. The material is cut to size.
4. Polyurethane foam is applied to the surface of the lamella, after which it is fixed to the base.
5. Subsequent boards are installed in the same way, but with the obligatory fixation of the lock.

You can find out more about attaching laminate to walls in.

PVC panels

Usually, special profiles are used to finish surfaces with PVC panels, but for slopes it is recommended to use gluing panels onto a prepared base. For this finishing option you will need:

• PVC panels;
• adhesive composition;
• primer for concrete;
• sandpaper;
• fine-tooth hacksaw;
• primer brush;
• container for preparing the adhesive composition.

Let's look at the process PVC installations panels step by step:

1. The surface intended for finishing is leveled with putty or plaster mixtures.
2. The material is cut to size. To install, a tenon is cut off from the panel.
3. The surface is primed with a concrete primer. It is recommended to lightly process the plastic on the back side sandpaper fine grain.
4. A continuous line of adhesive is applied along the perimeter of the panel. In the middle of the panel, glue is applied in a wavy line.
5. The panel is pressed to the base for a few seconds and removed. This way the base is saturated with glue.
6. Final fixation of the panel is possible after 5 minutes, after final impregnation of the base with glue.

About wall decoration PVC panels we already wrote earlier.

MDF panels

When working with MDF panels, it is necessary to arrange wooden frame. To complete the work you will need:

• MDF panels;
• wooden block, section 25x25 mm;
• wood primer;
• self-tapping screws for fastening panels;
• hacksaw;
• perforator;
• screwdriver

Installation of MDF panels is carried out in the following order:

• The bars are cut to size and treated with a primer.

• Using dowel screws, the bars are attached to the base. When installing slopes, two vertical bars are sufficient.
• If the fastening is carried out using an adhesive compound, additional horizontal bars will need to be installed.
• The slopes are being insulated. Mineral wool insulation is laid between the sheathing bars.
• The MDF panel is cut to size.
• Using self-tapping screws, the panel is attached to the frame.

Drywall

The most common method of finishing slopes is installing drywall. To perform the work you need to prepare:

• plasterboard, 12 mm thick;
• metal profile for the frame;
• adhesive composition if installation without a frame is planned;
• finishing finishing material (paint, wallpaper);
• self-tapping screws for fastening gypsum boards;
• dowel screws for fastening the profile;
• primer for concrete;
• level;
• perforator;
• screwdriver or screwdriver.

Sequence of work with drywall:

• The base is cleaned of dirt and dust. If necessary, level.
• The surface is treated with primer twice.
• A sheet of drywall is cut to fit the slope.
• If drywall is attached to an adhesive compound, the adhesive is applied in heaps over the surface of the sheet. The sheet is applied to the base and pressed, achieving the required position, controlling the process with a level. The installed sheet must be secured using a stop.

• If the drywall is attached with self-tapping screws, first prepare a frame from a metal profile.

• The gypsum boards are attached to the frame using self-tapping screws.
• After complete fixation of all elements, the joints are puttied and the seams are taped with a serpentine.
• For finishing, the surface of the plasterboard slopes is completely puttied.

The technology is described in more detail.

Lining

To install clapboard sheathing, you need to make a frame from a block. To complete the work you will need:

• block with a cross section of 25x25 mm;
• wood screws for fastening the lining;
• dowel screws for fixing the bars to the base;
• electric drill;
• screwdriver;
• hammer drill

Detailed plan for installing lining for finishing slopes:

1. The bars are attached to the base, forming a sheathing for fastening the lining. For slopes, three vertical bars are usually enough.
2. Before attaching the lining to the frame with self-tapping screws, holes are drilled on the boards at the fastening points with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws.
3. After installing all the boards, the fastening points are masked with wood putty.

We have already written about clapboard finishing in.

With a metal door, no other option can compete in strength and durability. But her appearance leaves much to be desired. Therefore, to decorate the front door so that it looks harmonious in the interior, the most various materials. Most often, wood or MDF, laminate is used for cladding; artificial leather is also popular. Each of these materials has its own specifics and installation features. Next, we’ll look at how to sheathe an iron door, and what’s the best way to do it.

Before finishing the iron entrance door with any material, you need to prepare all the necessary tools. Depending on the chosen product, you may need glue, “Moment Universal”, tape measure, stationery knife and scissors, a pencil for marking. Pliers, a hammer and a stapler will also come in handy. If planned MDF sheathing panels, then you need to take screws, a drill and a jigsaw.

TO preparatory work include the following:

1. Removing the door. It must be removed from the hinges to make it more convenient to work. The canvas is laid on some supports, the easiest way is to put 4 stools.
2. Removal of all accessories. It is necessary to dismantle the handles, peephole, locks, and hinges.
3. Surface cleaning. If the upholstery is being replaced iron door, the old coating is removed. After this, the surface is thoroughly cleaned from upholstery residues and dirt.
4. Measuring fabric size and preparing upholstery material.

After this you can start upholstery. Previously, metal painting was used, but paint, in addition to protection against corrosion, does not perform the function of noise and heat insulation.

Faux leather

The use of leatherette is a method of decorating the entrance canvas that has been proven for many generations. Covering metal entrance doors with this material has been practiced for a long time. Current leather substitutes do not differ much in appearance from the natural product, but are much cheaper.

In addition to the low price, the advantages of this material are:

• resistance to external factors: ultraviolet radiation, high humidity, temperature changes;
• elasticity, ease of installation;
• ease of care and cleaning, artificial leather can be washed with non-aggressive detergents;
• excellent decorative properties: you can choose any color and texture;
• together with insulation, you can make high insulation from noise and the penetration of cold air into the room, and any layer of insulation can be made.

The main disadvantage of leatherette is its low resistance to mechanical damage. Pets can easily ruin such upholstery.

Also, for the upholstery you will have to buy an additional lining - foam rubber with a thickness of 1 to 2 cm or a more modern version - isolon.

The procedure for covering a metal door artificial leather:

1. Glue is applied to the door leaf. Apply the selected insulation to the surface and smooth it well. Excess material is carefully trimmed.
2. The artificial leather is cut according to the measurement, adding 12 centimeters in width.
3. When upholstering the inside of a door, the leatherette is first glued along the upper end, and then, slightly stretching, it is smoothed to the bottom. Be sure to check whether the material has shifted.
4. Next, they paste over the door around the perimeter, starting from the hinges and ending with the doors with a lock and handle. The work below should be the final stage.
5. If the upholstery is done on both sides, then it is necessary to ensure that the leatherette does not overlap, otherwise it will not last long in these places.
6. All excess is cut off, and the necessary holes for the fittings are also cut out. They should be slightly smaller than the required size.
7. Mount the fasteners and all accessories in place.

Laminate

This material is more associated with floor finishing, but in fact, it can be successfully used for cladding an iron door. The thickness of the planks is 8 mm, and includes four layers. The bottom one is made of waterproof paper, which is impregnated with resins and paraffin. The next layer is wood fiber material. The top ball is also paper, it is painted and a design is applied to it. The final fourth layer is a polymer film; it performs protective and antistatic functions.

Laminate, as a material for finishing iron entrance doors, has many advantages:

• low cost: although there are more expensive varieties of this material, laminate is still cheaper natural wood, although in terms of decorative properties and other indicators it is not inferior to it;
• a wide range of colors and patterns, most often such products are made as imitation of natural wood of various species;
• UV resistance: laminate does not fade;
• good insulating properties (from noise and to retain heat).
• mechanical strength, resistance to scratches and damage.

In addition, the laminated coating is easy to care for; it can be wiped with mild detergents. The only drawback of this practical material is the inability to decorate external doors that go directly to the street. Severe frosts and especially high air humidity are contraindicated for laminate. Therefore, the material is best used for cladding steel doors in apartments of a multi-story building.

The laminate sheathing installation diagram looks like this:

1. First they make a frame from wooden slats, they must match the color of the laminate used. It is fixed to the door leaf using liquid nails.
2. A web is formed from laminate panels required size cutting it with a jigsaw.
3. Glue is spread over the canvas, after which the laminate shield is pressed against the door.
4. In order for the materials to “grab” better, the laminate finish is pressed against the canvas with some kind of weight, and left until completely dry.
5. The last stage of lining an iron door from the inside is the installation of fittings.

Using MDF for finishing

MDF is produced by pressing from wood chips. For better decorative and protective characteristics, additional coatings are used. MDF is often laminated and covered with a thin film. This material is in great demand because it is durable and resistant. The anti-vandal plastic coating is even more durable. In addition to them, MDF is covered with veneer made of natural wood.

This material is more capricious to use and maintain, but it is very beautiful. If desired, enamel or paint is applied to MDF to improve its decorative properties.

MDF boards have the following properties:

• it is a non-toxic material and does not emit any harmful compounds;
• high strength;
• good insulating properties;
• possibility of various color and texture solutions;
• ease of care.

Do not forget that MDF does not like exposure to moisture; such a coating cannot be cleaned with abrasives.

MDF panels are mounted on the door leaf as follows:

1. Before sheathing the outside of an iron door, the metal must be cleaned and disinfected with some kind of solvent.
2. Then a layer of paint is applied to help the material adhere better.
3. Holes for self-tapping screws are made along the entire perimeter in increments of 10 to 15 cm.
4. Glue is spread over the door leaf, the MDF panel is applied to the door and fixed with self-tapping screws.
5. The holes necessary for the fittings are drilled, after which they are installed.

Natural wood

Sheathing an iron door with wood is one of the most expensive options. For these purposes, wood species are used different trees, supplementing it with impregnations and stains.

The main advantages of this finish:

• exceptional decorative properties: a door with such cladding looks solid;
• environmentally friendly, since wood is a natural material;
• high strength characteristics;
• good thermal insulation and sound insulation.

At the same time, in addition to the fairly high price, wooden cladding has other disadvantages: this material is quite heavy, wood does not tolerate moisture.

Covering a metal door with wood is no different from installing MDV.

An old iron door can be sheathed with a variety of materials. They make this element of the room more attractive in appearance and improve the insulation characteristics.

Video:

The simplest and most popular way to give a door an attractive appearance is to upholster it with some material. This can be done both indoors and outdoors, you just have to use different materials And different technologies. But in any case, the process is called “door trim”. All the subtleties and nuances are discussed below.

What can you use to beat doors?

There are two types of door upholstery - soft and hard. The soft one is made from two materials - dermantine (leatherette) and vinyl leatherette. Dermantin is a woven cotton base coated with a film of nitrocellulose. This material was popular in the 40-60s of the last century, as it was practical and inexpensive. A little later, vinyl leather appeared.

A little about vinyl leather and leatherette

This material is made on different substrates - woven and non-woven, stretchy and not. Accordingly, artificial leather has different properties. A layer of polyvinyl chloride (PVC or PVC) is applied to the base. It is more durable and chemically neutral. It has only one significant drawback - it reacts poorly to ultra-violet rays- loses elasticity, changes color, may crack. Therefore, upholstery of doors facing directly onto the street with vinyl leather is undesirable. There is, however, a material with increased resistance to UV rays, but this is a special material and you need to pay attention to this when purchasing.

Now about a little confusion in terminology. Dermantin in its pure form, as it was in the last century, has not been produced for quite some time. Instead there is different types vinyl faux leather. There are also materials coated with other polymers, but there are not many of them. So, from old memory, they are all called dermantine or leatherette (although it is correct, by the way, to say “dermatine” without the “n”). So when you see this name, you need to clarify what kind of material is meant, since the properties and prices differ significantly.

Despite the fact that the material is essentially the same, it has different characteristics and appearance. Eat elastic types There are some that stretch well, but there are tough ones that are difficult to stretch. In addition, modern artificial leather has many colors and shades and can have different surface structures:

So the choice of soft upholstery materials for doors is extensive. Apparently, this is the determining factor in the popularity of this type of door upholstery.

Hard door trim

There are more rigid upholstery materials for doors, although they are used less often:

• MDF panels with thickness from 8 mm to 18 mm;
• natural wood - fragments, solid wood;
• veneer;
• laminate;
• plastic;
• postforming.

From this entire list, doors are most often finished with MDF overlays/panels. This type of upholstery is especially popular for decorating metal doors, including homemade ones. The panels are made according to the dimensions of a specific door leaf, after which they are installed with glue or foam into fixed starting strips. In this case, and makes sense.

From the catalog - options for MDF overlays, and all this in different colors...

The door trim is practically the same with other materials - laminate, plastic, postforming. Starting profiles are installed around the perimeter of the door, into which fragments of trim cut “to size” are inserted. Everything is simple, if you have basic skills in working with a drill, saw and hammer, you can do it yourself in a few hours.

Door upholstery with dermantine

The most popular way to cover a door is with artificial leather. This section allows, at the same time as improving the appearance, to increase the thermal and sound insulation performance. But this type of door trim also has disadvantages - it is the most difficult technological process, requiring at least general ideas about the procedure.

Upholstery methods

We will talk about the technology of door upholstery with dermantine. You can attach it in two ways: with a roller around the perimeter of the door leaf and without it. Depending on this, the order of actions changes (more on this later).

Door upholstery with dermantine - with and without a roller

For banners, you can use the same material that was used to trim the doors. It is cut into strips 2.5-3 cm wide, attached to the top nails, and then pulled and fixed by the next nails to form a pattern. To secure the strip, you can wrap it around a nail that is not completely driven in, which is then driven in. But this option is suitable if decorative nails have large heads. If the caps are small, the strips are nailed.

The pattern can also be formed using a thin metal flexible cable, but it is more difficult to attach - it bends less easily.

How and with what to attach leatherette to the door leaf

If upholstery is needed wooden door, usually no questions arise - they are secured with staples from a stapler, then nailed along the contour with decorative nails. Only here there are nuances: the staples must have a wide back (at least 1 mm), and the nails must be wallpaper nails with a wide head. The fastener installation step is from 2.5 to 7 cm, as desired.

More questions arise when it is necessary to cover an iron door with dermantine. There is only one way out - to plant it on glue. “Moment” glue is usually used, but you can use any other universal glue that can be used to glue both metal and leatherette. It is used to lubricate the strip from the inside (the strip that runs along the perimeter of the door and covers the junction of the leaf with the door frame). When attaching vinyl artificial leather, it is cut out with a margin of 15 cm, just for the hem on both sides to the wrong side.

Materials for heat and noise insulation

Foam rubber is most often used to insulate doors. It is inexpensive and, if desired, allows you to create a voluminous convex pattern. The most common case is two layers of foam rubber, 1 cm each. This option is not the best - foam rubber has almost no effect on the soundproofing properties of the door, and this is what is sometimes very important. In addition, after 3-4 years it loses its elasticity, begins to stick together, and you have to reupholster the door, although the appearance of the leatherette is still quite decent.

All this is true, but there are no worthy competitors for foam rubber yet. There are materials with certain properties that can be laid instead of one of the layers, and the second will still be foam rubber. For example, to improve soundproofing properties you can use Isoton. It is used for heat, sound and insulation of cars. Sold in small sheets back side an adhesive composition is applied, protected with polyethylene film. So there will be no problems with installation. The disadvantages are the price and the rather large weight of the material. To avoid problems, it is worth replacing the hinges with more powerful ones.

There are two other materials used in the automotive industry with similar properties. These are “Splen” and “Vibrofilter”. All of them are made on an adhesive base and can be used to improve the characteristics of the door.

How to beat a wooden door

It is more convenient to work on a removed door, but if this is a problem, you can beat it right on the spot. First you need to remove all the fittings from the door leaf - locks, latches, door peephole. If there is old upholstery, it is carefully removed. If part of the door requires repair, the damaged fragments are removed and replaced with wooden ones cut to size. The cracks can be covered with putty or foamed with polyurethane foam with a low expansion coefficient.

If there was a pattern on the upholstery, and you are generally satisfied with it, we drive regular nails into the places where the nails forming the pattern were driven. We do not hammer them in completely, the caps should stick out by 1-1.5 cm. With their help, we will then break through the foam rubber and upholstery in the right places (just press with your fingers, all layers will be pressed through). We will take out ordinary nails, install decorative ones in their place, and use tape to form a pattern. The procedure is simple.

With roller

To make the end of the door look no worse than the rest of the plane, we start with it. If you are not going to finish one of the sides, skip this step, just paint the end with paint to match the finish on one side or the other. If we are going to upholster the doors on both sides, we cut out a strip of material about 10 cm wide. Look at your door more precisely, since the thickness of the panel varies. The strip should cover the end and extend on one and the other side by 3-4 cm. Lay the strip, fasten it along the edge with staples (faster and easier) or nails with a large flat head.

To form a roller, you also need a strip of material. Width - 10-15 cm depending on how wide you want the roller. Then there are two options:

The difference between these two methods is only in appearance: in the first case, the nails are nailed along the edge of the upholstery (pictured on the right), in the second - along the edge of the bolster (pictured on the left). They choose who they like best. For example, it seems to me that the first option (on the right) looks better - more neat. But this is just a personal opinion.

What is this roller for? In order to cover possible gaps between the canvas and the jamb. This way we avoid drafts and reduce heat loss. But you can make a roller only if the doors are upholstered on the opening side (the doors open into the apartment, so we upholster them from the inside). If, on the other hand, this trick doesn’t work, it won’t close. Then you have to do without a roller.

In this case, everything is simple: the canvas is folded evenly, fixed with nails or staples - whichever suits you best.

The door upholstery process in photo format

To reduce noise levels, the doors are covered with one layer of sound insulation and one layer of foam rubber. The option with preliminary production of the roller was chosen. First, we removed the old fittings and installed a new lock. The trim and handle were removed, but the internal parts remained in place. Let's start upholstering the doors.

We immediately form a roller - we place narrow foam rubber in a strip of dermantine and fasten it along the perimeter of the door. It is more convenient to do this with staples from a stapler.

The next step is to install sound insulation. It is adhesive-based, so there are no problems - we cut it to size, carefully removed the film and glued it on. When gluing, we try to squeeze out all the air; to do this, we tear off the film gradually, ironing the material from edge to edge.

Now we attach foam rubber 1 cm thick. this option the most convenient way is staples from construction stapler. First we fasten it around the perimeter, then often along the surface of the door so that the foam fits tightly.

The foam rubber is cut out with a small margin, and after installation the excess is cut off.

We turn the top edge 2-3 cm, start fastening from the upper left corner. There we hammer in the first nail, then we straighten the material and nail the second one at the top right. Then, in increments of 3-4 cm, we nail the upholstery with finishing nails from one edge to the other.

We fasten from the hinge side, turning the edge inward. Straighten it evenly so that there are no creases at the top.

Afterwards the same operation is repeated from the side of the lock, then below. Actually, the door upholstery is almost finished, you just need to put the fittings in place.

Video lessons on the topic

Vinyl leather for door upholstery is sold both by the meter and in sets. In some sets the mounting method may be different: they have plastic profiles, which are attached around the perimeter of the door leaf. These profiles have a fixation system similar to that used in suspended ceilings.

IN next video The process is captured using roll material.

How to insulate and upholster the front door. The second type of bead formation technique is that it is nailed last.

How to upholster metal doors

The front part of metal doors is rarely upholstered - it already has a quite attractive appearance. Sufferes more often inner part. That's what we'll talk about.

There is a frame on the inside of the iron door. In some models it is metal, in others it is wooden. Placed between the frame slats thermal insulation material. It can be polystyrene foam or slabs mineral wool. They are attached to polyurethane foam, which has a very small coefficient of expansion (required!). From above everything is covered with a sheet of plywood or OSB. This is the standard option. If the slats are wooden, everything is fine, there are no problems - the doors will not freeze. But if the frame inside the door is metal, in good frosts everything will freeze through and through - through cold bridges, which are metal ribs. To prevent this from happening, a layer of “Isoton” or “Spleen” is laid again on top of the foam/mineral wool, and then plywood is placed on top of them.

The remaining processes when upholstering a metal door are very similar to those described above. The only difference is in the method of fixation: the upholstery is glued to a suitable high-quality glue. The excess is immediately cut off at the joint using a sharp wallpaper knife.

This is where the classic mistake was made - there is no layer that cuts off the cold bridges. Otherwise, everything is shown well.

Undertaking any renovation work with the front door (replacement or restoration), you need to remember a few things:

• outside the door is business card owners;
• interior decoration is carried out not for neighbors and guests, but for your loved ones;
• During the repair, issues of insulation, sound insulation and door frame design must be comprehensively addressed.

In order to simultaneously solve the assigned tasks, you need to clearly understand how to decorate the doorway of the entrance door in an apartment or private house.

Let's be clear right away. Finishing the doorway includes the installation of slopes and work to change the design of the door leaf with its parallel insulation. You can read about jambs in the article “”, where finishing materials and the technology for their installation are discussed in detail. Therefore, duplicating this material is inappropriate.

Entrance door finishing options

To change the design of the door leaf and frame, several technological methods are used: painting, upholstery and paneling.

Coloring

Painting allows you to independently transform the door surface beyond recognition in a very short period of time. Among the advantages:

• simplicity of the technological process;
• low financial costs;
• the work does not require the use of physical force - even women can do it;
• a variety of colors and shades of paint allows you to fit a painted door into any interior;
• not needed for work special tools— a brush (roller) and a paint tray are enough.

The negative side of this method is that it is impossible to carry out additional insulation and sound insulation.

Materials for dyeing

Paint manufacturers offer big choice its products for painting doors. Among them are:

1. Nitroenamel— protects metal doors well from corrosion, is affordable, dries quickly, can be applied either with a brush (roller) or with a spray gun. However short term service (fades quickly) often deters consumers from purchasing this type of paint.

2. Oil paint fits well on any surface, including wood and metal. Interior decoration front door with this type of paint and varnish products has undoubted advantages:

• it has an excellent price/quality ratio;
• durable;
• pleasant gloss lasts for a long time;
• not afraid of humidity and direct sunlight;
• withstands significant mechanical loads.

Among weaknesses It is necessary to note the long drying time, low coverage rate (large overrun per 1 m2) and rapid abrasion, which is very noticeable in the area of ​​the handles.

3. Acrylic enamel(PF) dries quickly, can be applied to almost any surface, and retains for a long time consumer qualities, does not burn. Not suitable for exterior painting of doors.

4. Alkyd enamel It tolerates temperature changes and UV rays well, dries quickly and maintains a glossy shine for a long time. These qualities are indispensable for external use.

5. Nitrocellulose paint It is not resistant to atmospheric conditions, therefore it is used for painting entrance doors indoors.

6. has increased resistance to weathering, gives the painted surface a beautiful appearance, dries quickly, and is durable. Visually very similar to powder.

The disadvantage is that this type of enamel on iron products is difficult to damage (you need to try very hard). However, if this happens, it will not be possible to restore the integrity of the paint layer (tint) - it is necessary to completely clean the surface of the coating and then repaint it.

7. Forge paint little known to a wide range of buyers. But this perfect option painting the outside of a metal entrance door yourself (thermal cameras are needed for powder paint). It is durable, resistant to almost all types of impact, absorbed into the surface of the metal, forming a single whole with it. The only one negative point- high price.

Upholstery

Appearance on the market building materials new types of artificial leather have given a second wind to an already forgotten type of finishing such as upholstery. A door upholstered in dermantine or artificial leather has an attractive appearance: it looks beautiful, solid, noble, creates an atmosphere of comfort and home warmth, fits into almost any design solution for decorating the interior of an apartment or house, holds heat well and protects owners from excessive noise in the entrance.

Upholstery has many advantages:

• durable (service life of at least 10 years);
• low cost of finishing work;
• easy care: easy to clean, and, if necessary, to remove stubborn stains, withstands dry cleaning;
• not afraid of moisture;
• withstands any frost;
• does not fade under the sun;
• There is a huge selection of upholstery materials color range and textures.

Among the disadvantages it should be noted:

• rapid flammability;
• inability to restore damaged areas - only replacement of damaged material;
• When contacting with sharp objects, the upholstery material is easily damaged.

Upholstery materials

Leatherette is used for door upholstery, which today means not only the material in its classic look, which, by the way, is no longer produced, but also substitutes for genuine leather made from vinyl and its derivatives. The choice of soft materials for finishing the entrance door inside the apartment, as well as for the outside, is explained by the consumer properties of dermantine:

• affordable price;
• resistance to rotting;
• high abrasion resistance;
• simple care;
• variety of colors and textures;
• long service life.

The types of upholstery materials and their properties are discussed in more detail in the work "".

Sheathing

Finishing the front door from the inside with your own hands using hard materials (cladding) has many positive aspects:

• a large selection of not only materials, but also a wide range of products within each type of cladding in color and texture;
• long service life;
• the ability to provide additional heat and sound insulation to the door;
• easy care;
• easy installation.

There are no general disadvantages to the cladding. Each type of material is individual. Therefore, we will talk about the disadvantages of this or that type of cladding in the subsection “Materials for cladding.”

Sheathing materials

Prefabricated solid wood is used for cladding entrance doors valuable species wood: oak, ash, walnut, cherry, etc., MDF panels, laminated chipboard, PVC, upholstery lining strips.

Natural wood

A very beautiful and practical option for finishing doors: natural wood. Modern technologies(gluing under pressure) make it possible to obtain slabs ready for installation, where the joints of narrow planks are practically invisible, and the wood pattern is selected into a single ensemble. Naturally, such a stove costs a decent amount, from 2,200 to 30,000 rubles/m2. However, this finish has enough advantages:

• high strength;
• long service life (depending on the type of wood from 30 to 70 years);
• pleasant to the touch texture;
• natural wood pattern;
• the ability to fit the door into any style of apartment design by whitening, aging, brushing, etc. surfaces;
• high heat and sound insulation, allowing you not to resort to additional insulation door leaf;
• environmental cleanliness;
• maintainability - such an overlay can always be restored.

Among the disadvantages, it is necessary to note the high price and regular treatment with antiseptics and varnish, which protects the wood fiber from getting wet.

Please note: in a dry room, it is not necessary to varnish the surface of the slab. It all depends on the taste of the owners.

MDF

Most popular look finishing - MDF sheets(medium density fibreboard), obtained by dry pressing of finely dispersed shavings under high pressure and temperature. The material is not very attractive in appearance. Therefore, it is lined with veneer or laminated with a special protective film. The cheapest option is to paint it.

The choice of MDF overlays is huge. An unprepared buyer's eyes run wild. These are models with voluminous panels extruded under the press, straight panels, but with milled decorative elements, with or without inserts, with 3D engraving, patina, etc. Added to this various colors and shades.

However, here the main attention should be paid not to the aesthetic design (although this indicator is very important), but to the type of protective film. The cheaper option is suitable for finishing indoors (outside it is not able to protect the MDF board from moisture and fading).

For outside, including in private houses, where the door goes directly to the street, to protective film completely different requirements are imposed (must have increased strength and be painted polymer paint). As a result, it costs significantly more, raising the price of the panel itself.

This one has door trim many positive aspects:

• the texture can be wood, including aged, natural or fake diamond, textiles, leather, etc.;
• variety of colors and shades;
• can be milled to give different relief (only natural wood has this option);
• you can finish doors from any material (wooden and metal);
• high strength and moisture resistance;
• easy care;
• tolerates low temperatures well.

The disadvantages include:

• inability to recover after damage;
• afraid of abrasive materials.

The cost of the lining starts from 1200 rubles. Here it is necessary to take into account that the protective film of cheap panels fades, and under direct sunlight it can crack. Therefore, decent quality linings start at a price of 2,000 rubles. for a unit. Service life is about 10 years.

More expensive MDF boards can be installed both indoors and outdoors.

Chipboard, plywood, OSB

If you have financial difficulties, you can use chipboard, OSB or moisture-resistant plywood (shipboard) to finish the door leaf. These materials are sold in two varieties: laminated with a protective film or polished (the latter must be coated with enamel or varnish after installation).

The advantages of this material:

• presentable appearance;
• strength and wear resistance;
• long service life - at least 15 years;
• reasonable price - from 280 rub./m2.

Flaws:

• complete lack of possibility of repair in case of mechanical damage;
• fear of high humidity in the room;
• When cleaning, do not use abrasive materials or aggressive chemicals.

Plastic linings

Solid composite plastic overlays are also popular. They have proven themselves to be an excellent waterproof material, with for a long time service: does not rot, does not crack, tolerates seasonal temperature fluctuations well. If you have pets, you can buy a reinforced version of the lining - “anti-claw”.

A variety of colors allows you to choose a coating to suit any design solution. At regular care do not lose their original appearance. The advantages include affordable price— 1500-5800 rub. per overlay (price depends on the thickness of the material and the presence of decor).

The disadvantages of a plastic door lining are atypical for building materials:

• rarely found on sale;
• limited decorative possibilities(texture is always smooth);
• low strength (even the “anti-claw” does not always withstand the impact of sharp objects).

PVC and fiberboard panels

Craftsmen can use panels made of polyvinyl chloride and fibreboards. Taken standard panels 10-50 cm wide, from which the whole canvas is assembled. Professional finishers are skeptical about such finishing, but practice has shown that the method has a right to life. It has many advantages:

• inexpensive;
• easy to do;
• lasts a long time;
• Fiberboard is characterized by impact resistance, resistance to moisture and abrasion;
• PVC is characterized by 100% resistance to water.

Both materials have a presentable appearance and are convenient to use: they are easy to clean and repair (replace damaged strips). The service life of fiberboard is at least 10 years, PVC - 20. The price for 1 m 2 of material starts from 80 rubles.

Among the shortcomings we note:

• PVC is destroyed under shock loads (you can’t open such a door with your foot);
• the surface is easily damaged by abrasive materials ( baking soda, “Pemolux”, etc.);
• burns out.

Laminate

They are used in Russia for finishing door panels and laminate flooring. Craftsmen with golden hands and a sense of beauty make original and very beautiful doors. Any types of lamellas are used: standard, with a chamfer, with a textured surface, etc. It is attached to metal doors using a gusset, into the grooves of which the slats are inserted.

This type of finish obvious advantages. Overlay:

• has high wear resistance;
• tolerates temperature changes well (the main thing is that technological gaps are left in the gusset);
• repairable in case of damage - the bar can be replaced or restored with waxes or valve-type corrective markers;
• has different textures and a large number of shades;
• serves for at least 20 years.

The disadvantages are the same as for flooring:

• a large amount of waste;
• afraid of moisture;
• “breathes” (expands) under the influence of temperature changes;
• does not like wet cleaning.

The price for high-quality laminate starts from 480 rubles/m2.

Please note that laminate cannot be used to cover the outside of doors if they open directly onto the street. This is usually a private house.

Coniferous lining

An interesting design can be created with clapboard (Euro or regular) from edged boards - wooden planks 6-20 mm thick.

Lining, unlike laminate, is not afraid of moisture. Therefore, it can be installed in rooms with high humidity. Pine and spruce material looks good. Him:

• a pleasant forest smell that does not disappear for a long time;
• beautiful natural wood pattern;
• affordable price;
• long service life.

It is attached to the door with a pattern, the number of which amounts to several dozen. Among them there are classic ones (shown in the photo), widely used, and there are also exclusive ones - copyright ones. The disadvantages are the same as with solid wood overlays.

They also use completely exotic materials to decorate doors: siding, ceramic tiles, natural and artificial stone. We will not consider them in detail in this work, since the siding has low strength, and tiles and stone greatly weigh down the door, as a result of which the hinges cannot withstand and become deformed after just a few years of use.

Instructions for finishing the front door from the inside

Finishing the entrance door opening from the inside begins immediately after installing the door block. First, the slopes are finished with plasterboard or MDF boards and the trim is installed. Then the threshold is set. Upon completion of the above work, they begin finishing the doors. Below are instructions on how to properly paint, upholster and trim doors.

Door painting

The simplest and cheapest solution for finishing doors is painting them.

Tools and materials

To carry out door painting work you will need:

• dye;
• Screwdriver Set;
• cuvette;
• paint roller (you can paint with a brush, which takes longer, but then a ditch is not needed);
• old newspapers or a piece of plastic film.

Painting instructions

Painting doors begins with removing the handle, locks and peephole - if this is not done, you will have to fiddle around for a long time to remove the paint from them. Covering the fittings with masking tape helps, but traces of paint still remain, albeit barely noticeable. Therefore, it is better to remove everything unnecessary.

Then newspapers or film are spread under the door to protect the floor from paint drips.

The surface of the door is washed, degreased, and then treated with sandpaper. This procedure is carried out with both wooden and metal doors. After the door leaf has completely dried, paint is applied in 2-3 layers. The process ends with installing the fittings in place.

Dermantine upholstery

The door upholstery process, with instructions and several technologies, is described in detail in the article posted on our website “”.

Door trim

For door trim, each type of finishing material uses its own technologies. Here we will look at how to decorate the inside of the front door with your own hands using solid overlays made of natural wood, composite plastic, MDF panels, laminated chipboards, and plywood.

Tools and materials

To trim the doors you will need:

• overlay made of natural wood, MDF, chipboard or plywood;
• screwdriver with a set of bits (cross No. 7 and slotted) and drills for metal (diameter 2.8 mm, 3 mm and 10 mm);
• primer for metal;
• roulette;
• hammer;
• clamps;
• paint brush;
• acetone or white spirit;
• insulation if it is planned to carry out heat and sound insulation;
• self-tapping screws;
• sandpaper P120-P150;
• glue;
• plastic plugs.

Instructions for attaching solid door trims

The plates are attached to the surface of the doors in two ways:

• on the frame - when insulating the door leaf from the inside;
• with self-tapping screws or glue without insulation (the method is used mainly for exterior finishing).

Regardless of the method of fastening and the type of material chosen, the door leaf is prepared for installation of decorative finishing:

1. handles, locks, and peepholes are removed;
2. the metal is cleaned with sandpaper;
3. degreased with acetone or white spirit;
4. primed with primer.

The wooden door is cleaned, degreased, and then puttied - small cracks are repaired.

The step-by-step algorithm for fastening with self-tapping screws is as follows:

1. Markings are made on the overlay for screws: 3 on top and bottom, 5 on the sides. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the fasteners do not get on the fittings;
2. holes are drilled in the plate with a 2.8 mm drill;
3. the lining is applied to the door and secured to it with clamps;
4. metal is drilled through the finished holes;
5. manually, using a drill with a diameter of 10 mm, recesses for the screw heads are drilled into the plate;
6. the cover is secured with hardware;
7. With reverse side, through the holes in the door, holes are cut in the slab for locks, a handle and a peephole. For this you can use big drill(under the eye); crown or cutter for locks and handle;
8. fittings are installed;
9. Using a hammer, plastic plugs are driven onto the heads of the self-tapping screws.

When attaching the lining on both sides, you can use the method shown in the photo, where the screws are not visible.

Here, first they drill through the entire door through holes for attaching the inner lining. The plate is attached to the surface with a self-tapping screw. In this case, it is necessary to select the length of the hardware so that it does not come out.

The outer cover will hide the caps of the fastening elements. And it itself will be fastened with self-tapping screws screwed into the vestibule, in which the heads of the hardware will be hidden by a seal.

This option allows you to use insulation that fits under the inner panel.

Instructions for finishing the door outside

The technological process of attaching the cladding from the outside is identical to the work on the inside. The only thing that needs to be taken into account here are completely different requirements for facing material. It must withstand seasonal temperature fluctuations, be resistant to moisture and sunlight, have increased strength against mechanical stress, and at the same time be beautiful and stylish.

Conclusion

Modern technologies make it possible to finish doors in various ways: painted, upholstered with dermantine or sheathed with solid panels made of natural wood, MDF, chipboard, plywood or composite plastic. Doors covered with clapboard, laminate, PVC or fiberboard panels look original. Here everything is decided by the taste of the owners and their financial capabilities.