How to finish a brick chimney from the inside. How and with what to seal the gap between the pipe and the roof? Natural facing slate

The operation of the bathhouse must be absolutely safe for humans. To prevent fires from coming into contact with a hot stove or chimney pipe, walls and ceilings, as well as hot surfaces, should be thoroughly insulated. We will tell you in detail how to insulate a chimney pipe in a sauna in this article.

As sad statistics say, during 2014, up to 70% of fires in private baths occurred due to incorrect thermal insulation of metal pipes. Therefore, to help our readers protect themselves and their guests, we will tell you about the materials, as well as the technology for insulating pipes in a bathhouse.

Variety of insulating materials for baths

The favorite material for bathhouses in Russia is wood. However, it tends to be very flammable. To avoid this, people have long learned to insulate the chimney in the bathhouse, as well as the stove and all surfaces - walls, ceilings. For these purposes, any available means were used - clay, asbestos or any other non-flammable materials with a low degree of thermal conductivity.

Another argument in favor of thermal insulation of the chimney is that in this case the pipe will cool much more slowly and condensation will not accumulate in it.

It is a mistake to think that a good solution regarding how to insulate a pipe in a bathhouse would be to mount sheet iron on the ceiling. The metal can heat up very quickly, which in no way prevents fire, so it is not suitable for thermal insulation.

As an alternative to lining the pipe in the bathhouse, you can use red refractory brick. However, for such a design it is necessary to foresee the size of the room in advance, strengthen the foundation and select a design.

Among the modern materials that solve the question of how to wrap a metal chimney pipe in a bathhouse, the following are offered on the market:

Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Folgoizol

It is a two-layer material consisting of a heat-insulating component and foil. Thanks to the reflective layer, the room does not cool down so quickly, because up to 90% of the heat is retained inside the bath, so it is a very high-quality insulator.

Folgoizol is highly environmentally friendly, because thick food foil is used as a raw material. This material is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation and strong temperature changes - the operating range is from -65 ºС to +175 ºС. Therefore, it will be a completely worthy choice for wrapping a pipe in a bathhouse.

Note that foil insulation is often installed not only around the chimney, but also on the walls and ceiling of the steam room. It serves for high-quality vapor and waterproofing, and also insulates the bathhouse well.

The sauna, lined with foil insulation, can be compared to a thermos based on its operating principle. It heats up quickly and cools down very slowly.

One of the options for wrapping a pipe in a bathhouse is thermal insulation. To produce thermal insulation, foamed polyethylene is used, hidden between two layers of foil, and the top layer of foil in the material is designed to protect the chimney from overheating.

Teploizol appeared on the building materials market relatively recently. The thickness of such material ranges from 2-10 mm.

Thermal insulation is easy to manipulate - you just need to wrap it around the chimney and secure it with metallized tape.

Sandwich pipe as a chimney

Recently, various manufacturers have begun to produce new safe sandwich pipes for baths and saunas. With such a design, there is no longer any need to worry about how to protect the pipe in the bathhouse (more details: “Advantages of a pipe for a sandwich bathhouse when building a chimney”). The design of such pipes involves quick and convenient assembly of sections inserted into each other. Moreover, it is optimal to use such pipes with an iron stove.

The sandwich pipe is a multilayer structure, inside of which there is a stainless steel frame, then insulation made of mineral or basalt wool is laid, and a galvanized casing is placed on top. Thanks to this structure, soot does not accumulate inside the chimney, the outer layer of metal does not experience overheating, and the entire structure looks beautiful and laconic.

However, we note that it is advisable to install sandwich pipes in dry saunas. But for traditional Russian baths with high humidity, you should choose slightly different thermal insulation options.

Method of insulating a chimney in a Russian bath

If a heater is installed in the bathhouse, then fire-resistant bricks are used to build the chimney. It is able to remain warm for a long time.

When building a brick chimney, you should not save, but it is advisable to approach this issue very responsibly, because its durability depends on the quality of the work performed.

In this case, the best way to isolate a pipe in a bathhouse from the ceiling, roof and other roof elements is to attach sheet metal to these surfaces.

Where the chimney comes into contact with the roof and ceiling, the surfaces should be protected with asbestos sheets. On the walls near the pipe you need to fasten sheets of galvanized steel. It is not advisable to use iron in this case, since it is susceptible to corrosion.

As an option, you can install a protective screen around the chimney into which expanded clay can be poured. It will serve as additional fire protection for all wooden surfaces of the bathhouse, and will also serve as a heat accumulator.

However, complete safety in a bathhouse cannot be achieved by insulating pipes alone. Similar actions must be performed with the stove, walls and ceiling.

Insulation of the stove in the bathhouse

Currently, bathhouses often use simple metal stoves, which are lined with sheet metal on the sides and back, and installed directly on the foundation. To ensure that heat is retained in the bathhouse for a long time and to make it presentable, the stove can be lined with red refractory bricks.

Currently, asbestos sheets are no longer used for stove insulation, since it releases toxic substances when heated.

It is advisable to use natural felt to insulate the stove. Although this material is quite expensive, it is an excellent insulator. In addition, when a spark hits the felt, it does not flare up, but begins to smolder, so you will immediately notice the problem by the characteristic pungent odor.

When installing the stove on a wooden floor, you should first lay felt in two layers, and then lay the brick in three rows. Sheet metal is mounted on the walls and floor around the stove in pieces 50-70 cm high.

We hope that this article was able to answer the most frequently asked questions among novice builders. Let us remind you that high-quality thermal insulation of the chimney, stove, as well as all surfaces of the bathhouse will not only keep you warm longer, but also protect yourself and your loved ones.

How to insulate a pipe in a bathhouse: how to wrap and secure a metal chimney pipe, insulation from the ceiling, how to do it in a sauna, what to wrap or cover with, photos and videos

How to insulate a pipe in a bathhouse: how to wrap and secure a metal chimney pipe, insulation from the ceiling, how to do it in a sauna, what to wrap or cover with, photos and videos

Insulation of a bathhouse chimney: what material to insulate a metal chimney pipe

Any private house has a stove or fireplace, as well as its own bathhouse. The chimney almost always goes to the roof of the structure. Its durability, as well as fire safety, directly depends on the correct and reliable insulation of the chimney. For this reason, the question arises, how to insulate a chimney and what material should be used to insulate a metal pipe? How to do this correctly with your own hands?

Chimney insulation in a bathhouse

The issue of chimney pipe insulation often arises among owners of private houses. Such work must be performed to protect the structure from fire and destructive factors:

Experts recommend carry out such work comprehensively, using hydro- and fire-proof thermal insulation. When choosing material for insulation, first of all you need to think about the safety of your family. Live fire in an enclosed space always poses a danger to human life. If you do not provide high-quality and reliable protection for the ceiling, it can easily catch fire.

Traditionally, wood is used to build a bathhouse. It is easily flammable. Most people naively think that covering the ceiling with metal sheets can serve as protection against fire and therefore do not insulate the chimney. Metal sheets heat up and do not prevent overheating and ignition. Sometimes the chimney is insulated with red brick, but this material is not the most suitable design for a wooden bathhouse.

A large selection of modern materials allows you to choose the most suitable and reliably insulate the chimney. Some of the most sought after and popular include:

foil insulation - such material will create the effect of a thermos, since heat always remains in the room, it heats up quickly and cools down slowly;

• thermal insulation - this material is wrapped around the surface of the chimney pipe and secured with special metallized tape or wire;
• Sandwich pipes are another great solution for bath insulation; they are highly safe and therefore do not require additional insulation. They have several designed sections, they are placed one on top of the other. The finished design is perfect for a bathhouse with a metal stove.

Also for the bath red brick is used. It withstands high temperatures well and retains heat for a long time. When using red brick, the masonry must be done correctly. The lifespan of the structure will depend on its quality. It is inappropriate to save here, since the cost of repairs will cost several times more.

What to use for winding a metal chimney?

In the old days, people used clay and asbestos, as well as other available natural materials, to insulate the chimney in a bathhouse. The main thing in any insulation material is poor thermal conductivity to prevent fire from high temperatures. The chimney and stove heat up very quickly and therefore it is important to properly insulate the chimney pipe for fire safety purposes.

Inside the structure with insulation at the moment of heating condensation will not accumulate, which is very important. It will cool slowly, deteriorate less quickly, and its service life will be longer.

Teploizol

The article mentioned the material Teploizol and now we will dwell on its description in more detail. This is a relatively new type of insulating material. It is made from foamed polyethylene. It is hidden between two layers of foil. It withstands elevated temperatures well and is suitable for insulating chimneys. Manufacturers produce Teploizol thickness from 2 to 10 mm. The greater the thickness of the Thermal Insulation, the higher temperatures it can withstand:

• 2-5 mm - withstands temperatures from -30°C to +100°C;
• 5-10 mm - permissible operating temperature from -60°C to +150°C.

The top foil layer protects the pipe from strong heat. The material is easy to work with. It is easy to work with it yourself. The pipe is wrapped with Thermal Insulation using wire or metallized tape.

Folgoizol

Folgoizol is also an excellent choice for insulating chimneys. It consists of two layers of foil and a heat insulator. Due to the reflective properties of the foil, the material can retain up to 90% heat in the bath. It ranks first in the list of similar materials. To make it, thick food foil is used. In addition to excellent insulating properties, it also has other effective properties, for example, it is not afraid of UV and high temperatures. Folgoizol can withstand temperatures from -65°C to +175°C.

Folgoizol is harmless to health, since food foil is used for its production. It is often used not only for insulating chimneys; it is also used to cover the walls and ceiling of bathhouses. It is considered an ideal insulation, hydro- and vapor barrier for saunas and baths.

Sandwich pipes

Sandwich pipes can serve as a good solution for insulating a metal chimney. Manufacturers assure that such insulation will be reliable and safe. Having installed this design , you don’t have to think about isolation. It will consist of several sections that can be easily and quickly assembled into a single whole. You can quickly assemble the entire structure and install it with your own hands. It is suitable for a metal pipe in a bathhouse or sauna with an iron stove.

By their design, sandwich tubes resemble a pie made from several layers. Inside there is a layer of stainless steel, and after that a layer of mineral wool or basalt insulation. The outside of the pipe is covered with a layer of galvanized steel. This design is a modern method of built-in insulation of a finished chimney. It will perform two important functions at once:

Such designs great for saunas, but for baths with a brick stove you need to look for another option.

Insulation for a traditional Russian bath

A wooden roof structure may ignite if it comes into contact with a hot pipe. To avoid a fire in the bathhouse, it is isolated. Most often, mineral wool secured with wire is used for this purpose. The top of the pipe is plastered with clay-sand mortar and covered with a layer of galvanized steel roofing. Fix it with self-tapping screws and then perform installation. Insulation helps the roof and wood floors to protection against overheating and fire. If the pipe is properly insulated and sealed, moisture will not enter the attic.

It is recommended to insulate the pipe outlet in the ceiling and roof area with asbestos sheets. They have good protection against high temperatures. The walls near the inside of the pipe are lined with galvanized metal sheets. Ordinary iron ones are not suitable for such work, as they are susceptible to corrosion. It is advisable to make a box around the pipe where it passes through the ceiling. Expanded clay is poured inside the box, which will serve as good protection against fire for the wooden floor. Expanded clay will also retain heat. Experts recommend that in addition to insulating the chimney, you should also not forget about the ceiling, walls and stove in the bathhouse.

It is recommended that before starting work on insulating a metal chimney pipe, its outer part treat with heat-resistant sealant. The special sealant can withstand temperatures up to +1000°C. The applied product will prevent insulating materials from sliding on the outer surface of the metal pipe.

Insulation of a bathhouse chimney: what material to insulate a metal chimney pipe

Any private house has a stove or fireplace, as well as its own bathhouse. The chimney almost always goes to the roof of the structure. Its durability as well as fire resistance

Insulating a chimney in a bathhouse - how to wrap and insulate a metal pipe

One of the most important stages in the construction of a bathhouse is the installation of a chimney. And insulating the chimney of a bathhouse is a mandatory process during its construction, which has two goals: fire safety and corrosion protection.

If you do not make thermal insulation, then under the influence of temperature changes condensation will form, gradually flowing inside and contributing to the destruction of the structure itself.

Insulated smoke exhaust channels warm up faster, making the sauna stove work much more efficiently.

Depending on what the sauna chimney is made of, various materials are used for its thermal insulation.

There are several types of already insulated chimneys for sauna stoves, the most common of which are sandwich pipes made of stainless metal.

There are also ceramic sections that are already installed in expanded clay concrete modules.

And now about everything in more detail.

Why insulate a chimney?

During operation of a sauna stove, its chimney becomes hot, and its inevitable close proximity to flammable materials can lead to a fire.

If the chimney pipe is made of brick, it heats up less, and if the chimney is made of metal, then much more.

Metal pipes heat up over 600 C°, and their proximity to the wooden lining of the steam room is very dangerous, especially if the bathhouse is directly adjacent to residential buildings.

The second, no less important problem is the appearance of condensation in the chimney. Condensation is the main enemy of all smoke removal systems.

This is not just moisture that forms on the walls of the chimney, but an aqueous solution of sulfuric acid, which can destroy almost any material. It appears as a result of the passage of heated air through a still cold chimney.

As a result of the impact of condensation on an uninsulated brick chimney, the masonry is destroyed, since it has the ability to penetrate microcracks in the brick, and when freezing, it expands. Metal smoke ducts also suffer greatly from condensation.

Metal of ordinary brands is not resistant to acids, so it quickly becomes unusable when exposed to condensation.

The only way to combat the appearance of condensation is to insulate the smoke exhaust ducts, in which the pipe will cool less and the sauna stove will return to operating combustion mode faster.

Insulation materials

Chimney insulation can be done using various methods using non-combustible materials.

The most common are:

1. Thermal insulation of the chimney with basalt wool and glass wool. Insulation materials used for both large surfaces of brick chimneys and pipes of relatively small diameter. Available as filler, in rolls or in the form of mats. For its use, it is recommended to manufacture an additional casing.
2. A method of filling the space around the chimney with heat-insulating material: expanded clay, slag, broken bricks, special heat-insulating granules. This method involves making an additional chimney casing.
3. Plastering. This is the most common, until recently, method of insulating brick chimneys. For this purpose, a slag-lime solution was used, applied in a layer of 5-7 cm to the reinforcing mesh. After drying, a sand-cement mortar of the same thickness was applied to it. But when the smoke exhaust system was heated and cooled, such insulation cracked and required annual repairs, so this method is considered unjustified from the point of view of labor costs and efficiency.
4. Chimney insulation with modern materials made of foamed polyethylene. “Teploizol” or “Folgoizol” is produced in rolls, is light in weight and has good elasticity, and cuts well, which makes it accessible to even non-professionals to work with. This is the simplest and most inexpensive method of insulating chimneys, widely used today.

Choosing insulation for a chimney

The choice of insulation for insulating a chimney with your own hands must be approached carefully and seriously.

You shouldn’t buy the cheapest one, because it should have good thermal insulation properties, be easy to use, not require additional reinforcement of the load-bearing structures of the roof and ceilings, be non-toxic and non-flammable.

Stone or basalt wool is an excellent thermal insulation made from basalt stones.

This insulation can withstand prolonged exposure to fairly high temperatures and does not burn, even when in contact with an open fire. In addition, when heated, it does not emit any toxic or unpleasant odors. Such insulation can be safely called an environmentally friendly material.

Glass wool is a type of mineral wool insulation made from waste from the glass industry. There are a large number of voids between its fibers, so it retains heat well.

Glass wool does not burn and does not absorb moisture, and, in addition, is not susceptible to rotting and rodents. It is not expensive and easy to use. Most often produced in slabs and rolls.

Teploizol or folgoizol are multifunctional types of insulation made of polyethylene foam and covered with a sheet of aluminum foil. It is produced in rolls and has a thickness from 2 to 10 mm. They can perfectly insulate the chimney of a bathhouse, since these insulation materials can withstand heating up to 150C°-170C°.

We make insulation with our own hands

Chimney insulation using mineral, basalt or glass wool can be done in two ways: insulation under a casing or insulation of a chimney without a casing.

In order to insulate a chimney using mineral wool mats, you need to cut out several pieces of slab from them that will correspond to the sides of the pipe from the outside.

Then, using wire stitching, secure them to the chimney.

Important! There should be no voids left between the layer of thermal insulation, otherwise the insulation will lose its effectiveness.

To insulate a metal pipe, you need to wrap it with basalt wool and secure it with wire around the entire perimeter. After that, put a second pipe of larger diameter on the chimney to make a kind of sandwich.

This method of thermal insulation of chimneys is the most effective and simple, but it allows reducing heat loss by more than half, as well as significantly reducing the fire hazard and the formation of condensate in smoke exhaust systems and protecting them from destruction.

Thus, thermal insulation helps to increase thermal efficiency and safe use of stoves. At the same time, it gives the building and the structure itself a more aesthetic appearance.

Chimney insulation

How to insulate a metal pipe in a bathhouse. Materials for chimney thermal insulation, fire safety and do-it-yourself insulation installation.

How to insulate a metal chimney pipe?

Having your own country house, you need to take care of heating the rooms during the cold season. A stove or other heating system needs to install a chimney vent. The smoke exhaust pipe is the main element of heat supply communications. For its effective functioning, it is necessary to insulate the chimney from the outside.

Relevance of thermal insulation

Moisture and smoke generated during fuel combustion are aggressive factors affecting a brick chimney. The temperature difference during the cold season and the accumulated moisture settling on the walls fills microcracks with water, and the stone structure collapses from the inside. Small ice crystals press from the inside and destroy it. An insulated chimney can eliminate this.

During the combustion process, condensate is formed on the surface of the flue, which contains a chemical series of oxides. When interacting, the elements form weak acids (carbonic, sulfuric, etc.) that can destroy the metal surface. It is for this reason that chimney insulation is necessary.

Proper installation of thermal insulation helps prevent indoor fires and prevents the roof from catching fire. Well-heated chimney pipes improve draft in the fireplace, boiler and stove, and there is less tar and soot residue left in it. The efficiency of the heating unit increases significantly.

Positive factors of an insulated chimney

Before answering the question - how to insulate a pipe, it is necessary to highlight the advantages of an insulated chimney.

An insulated gas outlet protects the heating system from the influence of the external environment and combustion products. Of course, thermal insulation cannot completely protect the structure from destruction, but it will extend its service life. This occurs due to the following factors:

1. Pipe insulation allows you to maintain a thermal balance in the middle of the structure, eliminating the possibility of aggressive acids and condensate falling onto the walls. Combustion products completely evaporate along with the smoke stream.
2. Chimney insulation minimizes the possibility of temperature differences between the cooled smoke duct and the hot steam.
3. Energy-saving properties are increased, contributing to fuel economy.
4. The strength of the steam exhaust structure increases due to the reinforcing frame.

Properly selected chimney insulation increases the frost-resistant properties of the system, ensures long-term preservation of appearance and increases service life, which is very important.

Selection of material for thermal insulation

The main question for owners of country houses with an autonomous heating system is how to insulate the chimney. In order to reliably insulate outlets for a stove or boiler, materials with a high degree of thermal insulation are used to ensure the thermal balance of the stove pipe on the roof.

Basalt insulation

Relevant for chimney insulation using mineral wool or basalt. The insulation is obtained from the melt of volcanic rock - gabbo-basalt. It is converted into fibers, due to which the insulating material has the following advantages:

• retains up to 95% heat;
• characterized by good permeability of escaping steam;
• is characterized by chemical and corrosion resistance;
• prevents the growth of fungus and mold on the surface of the chimney on the roof;
• vibration and heat resistant;
• made from environmental materials;
• is not subject to destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation.

Stainless steel casing

Metal “armor” in the form of a pipe made of stainless steel is used as an insulation option. It is able to provide complete protection against mechanical damage, moisture and other aggressive factors.

The chimney casing is mounted on the chimney on the roof. The interpipe space is filled with basalt wool, the outside is covered with insulation, 5 cm thick. An asbestos chimney can be wrapped with this insulation.

Wooden shields

Wooden panels are considered one of the simplest options for insulating a chimney pipe. Thermal insulation is made in the form of a wooden frame made of plates of the appropriate size. Slate or other flooring is fixed on top of it, from which the roof of the home is made.

After the pipe is completely covered with wood, the empty cavity is filled with felt, slag, sand, and mineral wool. Frame seams must be covered with a waterproofing compound.

Slag-reinforced concrete insulation slabs

Insulating a chimney in a private house using reinforced and slag concrete slabs ensures the smallest distance between joints on the structure. The space inside and corners are reinforced with mesh or wire, gypsum, clay and sand are poured in the form of a solution. Plaster is applied over the tile insulation.

Specifics of insulation work

When insulating a chimney with your own hands, we take into account that during operation of the heating boiler, the temperature in the smoke exhaust duct can reach 200 -300 degrees.

For insulation, it is better to choose a material with high heat-resistant properties: glass wool, mineral wool, basalt.

On the building materials market, thermal insulation is sold in the form of ready-made cylinders with a special foil screen. With their help, they decorate the flue and adjacent roof elements - protecting them from fire and cold air. Tubular structures are sold in different diameters, which allows you to wrap smoke outlets of different sizes.

Regulatory requirements for installation of thermal insulation

Before insulating a chimney pipe, you need to make sure that it is installed correctly.

The gas duct is carried out in accordance with the technological standards specified in GOST 52953-2008

1. The combustion product exhaust pipe should be 5 m high. This figure ensures optimal draft in the heating system.
2. A distance of at least 250 mm is required between the roof slab and the outer element of the boiler room.
3. If the building is covered with flammable materials, in particular slate, roofing felt, ondulin, then the insulated smoke exhaust structure must be equipped with a spark arrester.

After making sure that the system is installed correctly, you can begin subsequent work on winding with thermal insulation.

Basic methods of insulation

The metal chimney pipe is insulated using various methods.

Method of insulating a steel chimney

The chimney is insulated using a special solution. The composition is prepared from a dry mixture and water. The solution is applied with a spatula to the surface, spreading over the entire area. Then a fiberglass reinforcing frame is fixed onto it, on which plaster is applied.

Gas boiler flue insulation

Insulation for gas boiler pipes must have a number of enhanced thermal insulation and heat-resistant qualities.

Sandwich-type structures block condensation from settling on the surface, saving energy.

The sandwich chimney consists of a layer of mineral wool and two metal pipes. The upper element, with a larger diameter, is the main sleeve, the smaller one is part of the steam exhaust channel.

How to insulate such a chimney pipe with your own hands? Recommendations must be followed:

1. Holes are made in the roof and ceilings with a diameter 25 cm larger than the chimney duct.
2. At this stage, it is necessary to insulate the chimney pipe with a layer of basalt wool. The thickness of the winding must be at least 5 cm.
3. The insulation around the pipe is fixed with steel wire.
4. A larger casing is placed on top.

Upon completion of the work, the chimney is connected to the heating source and the surrounding riser is filled with expanded clay, clay or asbestos.

Smoke exhausts for baths

Insulating the chimney in a bathhouse is aimed at improving the heat transfer of the heating source, which is a stone stove.

You can insulate a chimney in a steam room using the following options:

• Teploizol is a material made of polyethylene foam hidden between sheets of foil. Rolls of insulation with a thickness of 2–10 mm are offered on the market. The foil surface reduces overheating of the pipe. The insulation is wrapped around the chimney, secured with wire or metallized tape;
• filgoizol consists of two balls: foil, which saves over 90% of heat in the room and a heat insulator. The material is used to cover the walls and ceilings of the sauna, providing the effect of a thermos;
• sandwich pipe consisting of several sections. This option is suitable for saunas and baths with an iron stove.

Insulating a metal pipe means ensuring optimal functioning of the heating system. Correct installation of chimney insulation with your own hands allows you to increase the service life of the structure and the heat generator, and also prevents fire.

Insulating a chimney pipe: possible methods

Chimney pipe insulation: relevance of thermal insulation, positive factors of an insulated chimney, choice of material, main methods of insulation

Finishing the chimney is not so much a desire for a good appearance of your roof as it is the need to fully protect the entire structure from the not-so-friendly influences of the environment. Wind, precipitation, birds, in the end, can cause disruption of the normal operation of the furnace.

But, on the other hand, the roof and the chimney above it are a kind of presentation of your home to the whole world. Hence the desire for design when finishing a chimney. This is the harmony between “should” and “want”.

Harmony of functionality and design

Chimney finishing can be divided into three independent stages:

• finishing inside - up to the exit to the attic;
• finishing inside - within the passage to the roof exit, and,
• Exterior finishing is already on the roof.

The most important stage is the last.

This is where we talk about the influence of external factors on finishing, and this is:

• constant exposure to the external environment;
• high temperature inside the chimney;
• significant temperature changes over fairly short periods of time.

Stages of work at the top

When finishing the top, we focus all the work on three interconnected elements of the chimney:

• base - the area where the pipe directly meets the roof plane; here the main goal is to ensure complete tightness of the joint and the inadmissibility of moisture and debris from penetrating inside;
• the body of the pipe itself goes up - here the main emphasis is on heat conservation, reliability, and good appearance;
• roof exit - remembering that “the end is the end of the matter”, we do not forget about the aesthetic side of the issue, but still the main thing here is to protect the chimney opening from rainwater and debris from the outside and at the same time not harm the draft.

Materials

If we talk about materials, we have in mind one very significant point that allows us to turn all the work into just an easy excursion to the roof, but under one condition:

• you carefully calculated the parameters of your furnace and upstairs pipes in advance;
• you have researched the building materials market specifically in the chimney finishing sector;

• and found that, it turns out, there are already excellent ready-made structures - metal (photos “B”, “D” and “E”), polymer (photo “A”), which solve the problem in a complex and provide the formation and protection of all three structural chimney element from the outside;
• So all you have to do, keeping the future in mind, is simply to calculate the dimensions of your chimney in accordance with the dimensions of the proposed structures;
• and this will be the best and ideal option for lining the chimney, and, looking at the examples, let’s say more directly and more definitely - a fabulous option for performing this important work;

• The finished structure comes with installation instructions and all fasteners, which allows you to focus on covering the roof itself, and not the chimney;
• The only problem is one thing - the correct calculation of the dimensions.

If your destiny is to finish each of the three components separately, then here at your disposal:

• traditional plaster, but with the characteristic of resistance to elevated temperatures, and, very importantly, its constant and sudden shocks;

• stone– very commonly used material;
• brick- and this one has long “settled” on chimneys;
• ceramics, famous for its resistance to any external influence.

Rules and regulations

All work on the chimney is regulated by the “Building Norms and Rules” (SNiP).

We note the main provisions of these rules under number 41-01-2003 (“Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”), which relate to the finishing of chimneys:

• all hot surfaces must be insulated, and the ignition temperature of the insulation used must be no less than 20 degrees higher than the expected temperature of the point of contact with the surface;
• all materials used must have anti-corrosion properties;
• if the pipe is made of brick, its thickness should be 120 mm or more;

• if concrete was used to make the pipe, then the thickness should be from 60 mm;
• standards allow the use of prefabricated asbestos cement or stainless steel, however, if the stove is not heated with coal;
• protection of pipe outlets is mandatory, in the form of all kinds of umbrellas and deflectors, but it is unacceptable that this protection even in the slightest degree prevents smoke from escaping from the pipe and thus reducing its draft;
• the gap between the pipe body and combustible elements of the roof must be at least 130 mm;

• if the pipe is ceramic and does not use insulation, then this distance increases to 250 mm;
• Insulation of the space between pipes and non-combustible roofing materials still requires non-combustible materials.

Work progress

To begin with, we present a general outline of future work.

Scheme

All work will consist of the design of four elements:

• A – chimney, as the “culprit” of all works;
• B – flexible tape applied to the tile and repeating its profile;

• C – metal profile;
• D – elastic band hidden under the tiles.

Helpful advice!
You need to understand that there are a huge number of ways to line the joint between a chimney and a roof.
They all pursue one goal - reliable sealing of the joint.
But the ways to achieve this goal may differ significantly. Therefore, we advise you to very carefully “play out” the entire algorithm of work before starting work.

Let's act

The work will consist of sequentially performing the following steps:

• First, we cover the entire pipe very carefully and around the entire perimeter with roofing material;
• then, along the entire perimeter of the pipe to fix the insulator, we complete the installation of the sheathing, as a continuation of the sheathing of the entire roof, then the tiles will lie on it;
• we lay tiles on the sheathing - the finishing of the chimney will go on top;

• Next, we measure all the facing material and prepare it for installation;
• then, starting from the bottom, fix it on the surface of the pipe;
• As a finishing touch, we carefully treat all joints with sealant.

Disadvantages with examples

Now for some good critical thinking about the options available.

In other words, we learn to look, analyze and draw conclusions:

• photo “C” - here, it seems, the size of the cladding plane extending onto the roof is too small, which will inevitably lead to moisture getting inside; (See also article.)

• photo “B” - here everything could have been done, in principle, more carefully and without pulling the metal of the chimney lining upward;
• Photo “A” - here the joint surface is also too small, but most importantly, the pipe outlet is unacceptably closed, problems with traction are possible.

Helpful advice!
If your chimney is made in the form of a round pipe, then we advise you to pay attention to the so-called master flush casings.
Working with them is perfectly illustrated in the attached drawing: prepare for work, insert the pipe, level it, fix it on the roof plane with sealant and additionally do not forget about the screws.
Often this innovative approach can be a lifesaver.

Indoor cladding

When we talk about the lining of the chimney below, we coordinate it with the general lining of the stove - the same material and the same requirements:

• brick, stone, plaster;

• extreme resistance to high temperatures;
• but at the same time high design qualities.

conclusions

If you have chosen the option of arranging each component of the chimney separately, then first insulate the pipe, then move to the junction with the roof, then close the exit, and finally put the design of the pipe itself in order. The additional video in this article will remind you of this sequence again.

Proper operation of the heating device is only possible if there is a combustion product exhaust system. But it involves the installation of a pipe passing through the floors and roof.

Moreover, the connection of the channel to the roof must be airtight, have no gaps, and to maintain the style of the building, it must be lined with the most suitable material.

The process of performing all this work or finishing the chimney must comply with fire safety rules, since the gases passing through it heat the structural elements to a temperature that can cause a fire.

1. System assembly
2. Chimney lining
3. Stages of work when finishing with slate
4. Chimney plaster
5. Facing with wild stone

What needs to be done during the installation of a chimney to ensure that the equipment works efficiently and is safe for others?

Sealing a chimney on the roof requires the following conditions:

The chimney passage can be made on the ridge or slope of the roof, and each method has its own characteristics.

The first option may lead to the need to partially change the rafter system, and the second may become a pocket for snow. But these shortcomings can be easily solved by adding an element under the ridge strip, which will avoid leaks.

After the pipe has passed through the roof, sealing begins. The building materials market offers a wide range of units that can be used in various conditions.

The traditional option is a flashing made of metal strips corresponding to the size of the pipe.

For roofs made of tiles or corrugated slabs, the fastening of elements is carried out using a lying seam, and on pitched structures with a slope of more than 30°. A special beam is installed behind the chimney. It serves as protection against rainwater.

Waterproofing a chimney on the roof involves installing a protective apron. It can be made of flexible tape or metal coated with a polymer composition.

An elastic apron is installed around the perimeter of the pipe in two layers, placing the lower one under the roofing, and mounting the upper one on top and covering it with metal profiles.

Insulation made of steel sheets is placed on a roof deck insulated with roofing felt. Its individual elements are attached along the perimeter of the channel, starting from the bottom. The grooves are filled with silicone or polymer sealant.

Chimney lining and materials for it

Finishing work on the exhaust gas exhaust system is carried out before laying the roof, which avoids damage or contamination. There are enough cladding options to make the right choice. Typically, the finishing on the roof of the chimney pipe depends on the material from which the structure itself is made.

It could be:

• Clinker tiles or bricks
• Plaster
• Cement fiber boards

Let's look at the features of each material. Clinker brick is durable, resistant to temperature changes and precipitation. As a facing material, only solid brick is used, the masonry of which is carried out using a special mortar. Grouting compounds are used to fill joints.

Let's watch a video on what material to line the chimney with:

Clinker tiles are light, thin, and have excellent aesthetic properties. It is used when lining high chimneys.

Plaster is a simple and cheap finishing method, but with a limited service life. The screed is made from cement mortar, sometimes with the addition of lime. But such cladding on top must have a decorative layer, for example, made of silicone paint.

Small-format slabs are one of the most durable materials that are resistant to aggressive environments. They have an attractive appearance and are non-flammable.

Finishing a pipe with slate: stages of work

Lining the chimney on the roof is necessary not only for better preservation of the chimney structure, but also as a decorative finish, so it is usually made from materials that are most suitable for roofing. One of the most durable, durable, and also very aesthetically pleasing is the stanza.

Its color depends on the deposit and can be:

• Purple
• Green
• Graphite

It can be in the form of tiles or panels. Fastening the slate is possible using copper nails with a wide head with a diameter of 2.5 mm and a length of 40 mm.

When performing work, it should be taken into account that due to temperature changes, deformation of materials is possible. Therefore, the nails are not nailed down completely; a small gap must be left between the head and the tile.

The tiles are installed on the sheathing, the beams are attached to the corners of the chimney, and if its width is more than 60 cm, another additional beam will be required.

Finishing the chimney on the roof is carried out in several stages:

1. The outer guides are set according to their level, the rope is pulled (above, below and in the middle - at a height of more than 2 m), and then the intermediate bars are set
2. If necessary, the smoke duct is insulated
3. Plywood sheets are laid on the guides
4. The tiles are being laid (their installation is carried out in such a way that one overlaps the other within 1.2, and the angle is not less than 22°

There are several ways to lay slate - from the standard rectangular one, to one reminiscent of fish scales. They are selected taking into account the pattern of the roofing.

Chimney plaster

The simplest and cheapest lining method is to coat the surface of the smoke duct with a cement composition. But such cladding has an unpresentable appearance and is also short-lived. Therefore, it is recommended to apply marble or Venetian plaster on top of it.

The first is performed on a previously primed surface. To do this, the dry mixture is diluted with water in a bucket in the proportions indicated on the packaging. Please note that it is usually sold in white, and to obtain a colored coating, color is added.

The diluted composition is applied in a thin layer and left to dry, and then cleaned with a steel brush. Next, a second layer is applied - if necessary, but experts still recommend limiting yourself to one. The final touch is to treat the surface with a grinding machine and grout with an iron spatula.

Venetian plaster, unlike marble, is considered an expensive pleasure, but it looks amazing. Moreover, if you do everything yourself, you can save a certain amount of money.

It is also sold in bags, has a white color and is diluted with water with the addition of color for application. Apply with a spatula or trowel. But to obtain a high-quality coating from Venetian plaster, the use of forced drying technology with a construction hairdryer is required. Any cracks that appear are treated with paint or varnish and, after drying, polished with a grinding machine.

Wild stone as a facing material

Another option for finishing a chimney could be the use of natural materials. Wild stone has proven itself well in this role. It is laid on cement using a plaster mesh fixed to the surface for adhesive rigidity. The seams are sealed with cement with the addition of color.

And the last stage of work related to the arrangement of the exhaust gas removal system is the finishing of the chimney inside the house. It can be made of various materials, the choice of which depends on the interior of the room.

The importance of chimney finishing

In this article we looked at the assembly, insulation and lining of a combustion gas exhaust system. Each of these stages is mandatory for the efficient operation of heating equipment, but can be performed using different materials. Which one is the best is up to you to decide. After all, this depends both on the design features of the chimney and on the architectural style of the entire building.

Pipe in the roof

According to professionals, it is best to lead the pipe through the roof through the ridge, since in this place it is perhaps easiest to arrange the junction of the roofing covering to the pipe, and also thanks to this, the formation of snow pockets can be avoided and, therefore, the likelihood of leaks will be reduced to a minimum .

However, the disadvantage in this case is the need to create a roof truss system without installing a load-bearing ridge beam, or to break the beam at the place where the chimney pipe passes and install additional supports in the places where the break occurs.

Another nuance is that for round pipes, manufacturers, as a rule, do not produce components with which it would be possible to pass the pipe through the roof.

Therefore, we are talking only about chimney pipes of rectangular and square cross-section.

Another successful method of locating the pipe relative to the roof is to place it near the ridge, on the slope, which will also avoid the formation of a snow bag and, from a technical point of view, will be relatively easy to implement.

Pipe height above roof

The height of the pipe above the roof depending on its location

The pipe should not be installed through the roof where the valleys are located - the junction of two slopes that form an internal corner.

It is very difficult to achieve a high-quality connection of the coating to the pipe here, while additional load on the chimney (including from the point of view of its sealing) will be created by the water flow collected from the adjacent slopes, and in winter a large snow pocket will form above it

Sealing pipes on the roof

As a rule, the process of sealing the joint between the pipe body and the roof plane is implemented using ready-made kits purchased along with the roofing material. Moreover, one set is used for square chimneys, and a completely different one for round pipes.

The roof joint and pipe are sealed using a special part - an apron, spherical or rectangular in shape. Such an apron is placed over the pipe so that its edges extend beyond the boundaries of the box in which the chimney was mounted. Moreover, the apron is simply overlapped on the roofing material, and attached to the pipe with self-tapping screws. The joint between the pipe and the apron is sealed with heat-resistant sealant.

Sealing round chimney pipes can be achieved using an apron cap placed over the pipe. The conical protrusion of the cap is cut to the required diameter.

The process of sealing the top of the pipe, in a simplified form, is as follows:

• At the very beginning, the remaining roofing material covering the box is removed.
• Next, a layer of elastic waterproofing is glued to the edge of the roof.
• An apron is mounted on top of the waterproofing layer, the lower edge of which is laid on the roof, and the upper edge on the pipe.
• The contact points between the apron and the roof are fixed with self-tapping screws with wide round “hats” (roofing option).
• The apron is fixed to the pipe with elastic sealant. After which the joint of the apron pipe is tightened with a clamp.

Types of chimney pipes

Based on the material from which they are built, chimneys are divided into brick, metal, asbestos-cement, sandwich and modular pipes.

Depending on the place of installation, chimney pipes are:

• Wall - when the pipe is located in the main wall of the building, internal or external; mounted, when the pipe is installed directly on the stove;
• Suspended - the chimney is attached to the outer wall of the building;
• Indigenous - when the chimney looks like a free-standing structure next to the stove

Types of chimneys and requirements for them

In order for a chimney to reliably remove flue gases, provide draft and at the same time be fireproof, it must meet certain requirements.

Height of the chimney. It is believed that the higher the pipe, the better the traction. On the one hand, this statement is correct, but it has certain limitations. Passing through the pipe, the gases are cooled, and the higher the pipe, the stronger. And this, in turn, leads to a decrease in draft, smoke and the appearance of condensate on the inner walls of the pipe. It accumulates and flows into the oven.

Section of the chimney. In addition to the height of the chimney, there is another important parameter - the cross-sectional size. It must correspond to the power of the firebox: the larger it is, the greater the clearance in the pipe. Reducing the cross-section leads to the fact that flue gases do not have time to escape from the furnace and it begins to smoke. If the clearance is too high, the flue gases begin to move slowly and cool down. This also leads to a decrease in draft and the appearance of condensation.

Heat transfer from the chimney. The increased heat transfer of the pipe also leads to the same result. Only here for a different reason: not due to a decrease in the speed of movement of the smoke, but because of its rapid cooling.

Heat resistance of the chimney. When choosing a pipe, its heat resistance plays an important role. despite the fact that the temperature of the exhaust gases is usually below 300 degrees, the internal surfaces of the pipe must withstand higher temperatures - up to 500 degrees for a long time and up to 1000 degrees for 30 minutes. The last requirement is related to the possibility of ignition of soot in the chimney, which burns at a high temperature. Outside, the pipe should not heat above 90 degrees, and in places adjacent to flammable structures - above 65 degrees.

Mechanical strength of the chimney. Chimneys must be made of materials that provide high mechanical strength. For example, in the event of a fire, the pipe must maintain structural rigidity for 90 minutes. The inner surface of the pipe must be chemical resistant. Since flue gases and condensate have properties with increased chemical activity and can destroy the pipe from the inside. And the part of the pipe that rises on the roof of the house also requires frost resistance.

Brick pipes

Properly built from high-quality ceramic bricks, pipes usually meet all the above requirements and are distinguished by their durability and durability. The disadvantages of such pipes include the complexity of their construction and heavy weight.

But the widespread construction of closed fireplaces in country houses has led to some changes in the requirements for brick pipes. The fact is that the flue gases coming out of the fireplace insert have a temperature of 400 degrees (in traditional brick stoves - 250 degrees). Therefore, it is recommended to build the chimney from special ceramic bricks, the horizontal seams should be no more than 5 mm thick, and the pipe walls should be 250 mm thick (at 120 mm, the pipe warms up to 150 degrees, which is unacceptable). Following these requirements significantly increases the cost of the pipe and its weight.

Asbestos cement pipes

In country house construction, in the construction of small houses, bathhouses and summer kitchens, asbestos-cement pipes have long been used. They are cheap, lighter than brick ones and quickly installed. However, sometimes they crack when exposed to high heat, which can lead to a fire. Typically, the outer surface of such pipes becomes very hot.

Steel pipes

Steel pipes are usually used for potbelly stoves, sauna stoves, and gas boilers. The main disadvantage of these pipes is that they burn out within a short time. The smoke in them, as in asbestos-cement pipes, quickly cools and at the same time causes abundant condensation. And the high surface temperature of a metal pipe makes it a fire hazard. From the point of view of modern requirements, single-layer steel pipes are unacceptable. They must be enclosed in an additional fireproof shell (possibly steel).

Modern types of pipes

Basically, modern chimneys are assembled from ready-made elements or sections manufactured in a factory. The stove maker’s task is reduced only to connecting these sections. Such pipes are well insulated, fireproof, acid-resistant and suitable for removing low temperature smoke.

The most widespread are the so-called sandwiches - chimneys consisting of three layers: an inner one made of stainless steel, a middle one - insulation, and an outer casing made of galvanized iron or stainless steel. the pipe is assembled from sections about a meter long. Moreover, the sections come in different diameters, which makes it easy to select the pipe needed for the furnace.

The advantages of sandwiches are ease of installation and low weight. They do not require a separate foundation, which reduces the cost of pipe installation. But, as far as I know, the price of the sandwich elements themselves is still quite high and, in general, such a pipe will cost more than the same brick pipe of equal height. In addition, when heating and cooling, individual elements of the sandwich can move relative to each other, which leads to loss of tightness of the entire system and the emergence of fire hazards. The shelf life of such pipes is about 10 years.

Modular pipes assembled from ready-made factory elements are gaining increasing popularity in furnace construction. These are multilayer structures consisting of a fireproof inner core (stainless steel or fireclay pipes), basalt insulation and a durable lightweight concrete body. Such chimneys have increased fire resistance, chemical resistance and rigidity. The outside temperature of the pipe during intensive combustion is only 40-60 degrees, which allows the use of any materials when finishing pipes. Such pipes may be adjacent to combustible structures.

Chimneys are easy to install both inside and outside the house. The cost of modular pipes is comparable to the cost of a steel three-layer chimney. Service life – up to 30 years. A linear meter of such a pipe weighs about 120 kg (a brick meter is 2-3 times heavier).

Chimney pipe lining: material characteristics

The chimney is finished before laying the roofing material, which avoids possible damage or contamination of the coating and greatly facilitates the work.

There are many options for lining a chimney and choose it depending on the type of material used to make the chimney.

A fairly practical solution is to use clinker tiles or bricks. Dirt is not visible on them, they harmonize well with any type of roof covering.

Clinker brick is distinguished by its strength and resistance to sudden temperature changes and aggressive atmospheric influences. For cladding, only solid bricks are used. It is placed on a special masonry mortar, and the seams are filled with special grouting compounds.

Compared to brick, clinker tiles are lighter and thinner, but they look no worse.

Clinker tiles are more suitable for lining very high chimneys.

The chimney can also be finished with plaster. This is a relatively easier and more affordable finishing method for finishing a chimney with plaster, but, unfortunately, not particularly durable. For finishing work, use a screed made of cement or lime-cement mortar. To increase the durability of the finish and, accordingly, its service life, the screed is coated with, say, silicone paint.

Mineral, acrylic, silicate and silicone types of plaster are considered stronger than traditional ones.

Small-format cement-fiber boards are durable, resistant to moisture, UV radiation and sudden temperature changes. They are non-flammable and environmentally friendly, and are quite attractive in appearance. The slabs have a wide range of colors and are light in weight. Their surface is absolutely smooth or structured.

finishing the roof with slate The chimney and roof are also lined with an extremely strong and durable natural material - slate. Depending on the deposit, shale is purple, green or graphite in color. Plates made of this material have different shapes - rectangle, arc, scale, octagon.

Chimney lining inside the house

The choice of material for lining the chimney inside the house largely depends on the style of the room. You can lay it out of clinker bricks and fit it into a brutal interior without additional finishing.

The most ancient finishing method is plastering. Suitable for a “country hut” style interior. The chimney can be whitewashed or painted with heat-resistant acrylic paint.

Cladding the fireplace and chimney with fireproof tiles, tiles, majolica tiles, clinker tiles or natural stone will help decorate any interior, since the modern market is rich in a variety of materials. The choice depends on style, financial capabilities and taste preferences.

The main thing to remember is that the finishing must be safe for the life and health of people living in the house.

Finishing the chimney on the roof

A two-layer protective apron is installed around the chimney along its entire perimeter, where the pipe exits onto the roof. The first layer is placed under the roofing covering, the second is placed on top of the covering.

This apron is called a flashing or collar and is made of metal (galvanized or steel sheet). Currently, ready-made frames can be purchased on the construction market. The junction of the apron and the pipe must be sealed.

The need for additional finishing of the chimney on the roof is determined by the following factors:

• the pipe laying is made of low-quality material (brick);
• there is no draft, it is necessary to perform additional insulation of the pipe;
• the appearance of the pipe does not match the appearance of the house; decoration is required.

How to close the chimney? Any material must be resistant to precipitation and any influences (wind, sun, temperature changes).

For any pipe lining, it is necessary to make a frame for attaching the finishing material. The frame is made of antiseptic timber or metal guides. The chimney lining is installed only on a metal frame.

The casing of the chimney and ventilation pipes on the roof can be galvanized metal coated with polymer. In appearance, it can be smooth or profiled (corrugated sheeting). This is perhaps the most inexpensive finishing option.

The most practical solution is a chimney made of clinker bricks. But you can simply line the pipe with clinker tiles, which are compatible with many roofing materials.

Finishing the chimney with artificial or natural stone, which is also used in finishing facades.

The finishing material must be non-flammable; lime-cement plaster can be used as finishing. In this case, the plastered pipes will be combined with the plastered facades, and the building will look seamless.

Double-walled (double-circuit) sandwich-type pipes are also suitable for chimney installations. You can read about this in a separate article dedicated to this topic.

The chimney can be lined with cement-fiber boards. This non-flammable material has an attractive appearance and is available in various colors.

The use of siding is only suitable for lining ventilation ducts facing the roof.

The choice of material here is much wider, right down to the roofing material used for the roof (metal tiles, soft roofing).

However, a lined chimney of a completely unconventional shape can become the main decoration of the house.

Types and installation of chimneys in a private house

Such a chimney will not require additional finishing.

Where is the best place on the roof to place the pipe?

The higher the better. The ideal place is the ridge, the highest point. Firstly, traction is maximum, and secondly, waterproofing is simpler and more reliable. You also need to take into account that the further the chimney is located from the ridge, the higher it should be. This does not paint the roof and complicates its construction. The roof of the Renaissance masterpiece, the Chateau de Chambord on the Loire, is crowned with many intricately shaped chimneys. Now even in France they don’t know how to do this.

Do-it-yourself roof in a house

Stages of roof construction in a house made of LSTK

Roof of a frame house based on LSTK technologies

Plastic drainage systems in a frame house made of LSTK

The junction of the roof to the chimney pipe is a rather complex roofing element from a technical point of view, the correct execution of which largely determines not only the service life of the rafter system, but also the comfort of living in the building. If you do not have any personal experience in performing roofing and tin work, then it is better to use the services of professionals - mistakes cause big problems, and it takes a lot of time and money to fix them. In the most severe cases, you will have to make unscheduled repairs to the premises and rafter system.

There are a great many options for solving the problem of roof abutment; each professional craftsman makes changes taking into account specific features and his own skills. But there are several factors that have a critical impact on the technology of work.

The passage of the chimney through the roof - the main nuances of the arrangement

Roofing type

To cover roofs, soft roofing materials, profiled sheets, piece natural or artificial tiles, and asbestos concrete sheets are used. Each coating has its own nuances in the manufacture of junctions; for them, both standard components produced by coating manufacturers and home-made ones from galvanized steel sheets or rolled soft materials can be used.

Roofing material	Minimum slope angle, degrees
Corrugated sheet	20
Ruberoid	3-4
Metal tiles	25
Asbestos cement slate	20-35
Ceramic, concrete tiles	25
Euroslate (ondulin)	6
Bituminous soft tiles	11

Roofing materials - types and photos

Prices for metal tiles

Metal tiles

Type of rafter system

Depending on the architectural parameters, the roof can be flat, inclined, domed, etc. Depending on the type, the slope of the rafters, the type of base and sheathing for roofing materials, and the location of load-bearing structural elements change. All these features must be taken into account when choosing materials and technology for connecting the roof to the chimney pipe.

Chimney parameters

Chimneys are made of brick, concrete blocks, metal or asbestos-cement pipes. Structural differences affect not only the technology for carrying out adjoining work, but also the choice of materials. Additionally, during the manufacture of the junction, the location of the chimney must be taken into account.. If it is close to the ridge, then you need to use one technology; if it is closer to the drainpipes, then you should work taking this factor into account. This applies not only to the method of water drainage, but also to the materials used for sealing.

There is one more feature. Brick chimneys can have smooth side planes or with special steps for water drainage. Depending on the method of laying the chimney, a specific algorithm for making the roof connection is selected. Some types of brick chimneys do not require gating.

Connection installation time

Work on waterproofing the junction can be carried out during the installation of the roof or after. There are ways to seal a chimney without the need to dismantle the installed coverings; all elements are laid on top of the existing roof.

As an example, let's consider three options for making junctions on different types of roofing materials: brick chimneys on soft tiles and metal tiles, and round chimneys on the finished coating. These are the options that are most often encountered during the construction of private houses. The algorithm for performing the work allows you to perform it yourself without the involvement of expensive specialists. But only under one condition - you have experience in covering roofs, the necessary materials and tools.

Important! All work on roofs should be carried out only in good weather; the temperature cannot be lower than +5°C.

Step-by-step instructions for connecting a chimney to soft roofs

To create an abutment assembly you will need pliers, a medium-sized flat spatula, a mounting knife, a hammer, a screwdriver, scissors for cutting metal, a hair dryer, measuring tools and accessories. A mastic based on modified bitumen is used as a waterproofing agent; for the sealant, you can use a special mastic in a tube or any other material based on environmentally resistant polymers. If you have an air gun, great, it will be easier to work. If for some reason you do not have a special device, then the nails can be driven in by hand.

Practical advice! There is no need to buy expensive tools to make one or more connections. They are used only by professional builders on an ongoing basis.

The technology for installing flexible tiles involves installing a fillet, plinth, or 50x50 mm diagonally spread beam near the chimney. The elements are fixed to the sheathing, pressed tightly against the planes of the chimney and screwed in this position. A waterproofing layer (underlayment) is installed on top of the elements, and individual pieces are glued with bitumen. Chimneys made of piece masonry materials must be plastered, allowed to dry and primed with any bitumen-based material. It is advisable to install the junction unit simultaneously with the installation of the soft roof - this not only simplifies the work, but also guarantees tightness.

Prices for underlay carpet

Underlay carpet

Step 1. Install the shingles in the usual manner until they meet the fillets. If one edge extends onto the surface of the element, it must be cut off with a mounting knife. Make a vertical cut along the corner of the chimney, and a horizontal cut along the bottom line of the fillet. To prevent damage to the underlayment when cutting soft tiles, always place a piece of plywood under the knife blade. Guide the tip of the knife exactly along the fold line of the roof. Cutting soft tiles is quite difficult; use strong and sharp knives.

Step 2. Additionally, seal all corners of the chimney with patches. How it's done?

It is recommended to seal the chimney passage unit using patterns from the remaining pieces of the valley carpet. In terms of its performance indicators, it better meets modern requirements. In extreme cases, it is allowed to use patterns from the lining carpet.

Step 3. Place a piece of carpet at the bottom of the chimney and mark it the width of the chimney. The length of the pattern must correspond to the sum of the height of the sealing on the chimney and the length of the material under the soft tiles. Practitioners recommend taking it with a reserve; a longer length will not cause problems for further work, but a too short pattern can cause leaks. Put it in place, bend it and use your finger to find the connection points of the fillet with the slope and the chimney. You need to cut the pattern at these points.

The height of the establishment beyond the vertical must take into account the climatic conditions of the location of the house and the maximum height of the snow cover, but be at least 30 cm, the establishment beyond the horizon - at least 20 cm. The length of the fillet must be added to these dimensions. The width of the pattern depends on the parameters of the pipe; the length of the side parts of the envelope is at least 20 cm.

Practical advice! If it is difficult for you to immediately make a pattern on the valley material, then prepare a template on thick paper. This will give you the opportunity to gain practical experience and avoid annoying mistakes in the future. You will find out in which places you need to make bends and which ones to cut off completely, you will see the optimal width of the hems, etc.

A more accurate pattern can be made on a flat surface, transferring the location of the points of the cutting lines and bends using a square and an ordinary nail.

Step 4. Carefully coat the back side of each pattern with special mastic, do not leave any gaps. Layer thickness is approximately 0.5–1.0 mm. Modern mastic will reliably glue the pattern to the chimney pipe, allow it to withstand wind loads, and prevent water from coming under protection.

Prices for mastic for tiles

Mastic for tiles

Patterns must be glued taking into account the direction of water flow. The front one is installed first; its lower part should cover the top of the shingles. All the water from the chimney will subsequently flow onto this element. Next, the side patterns are fixed; later they will be covered with the finishing coating. The last thing to cover is the back surface of the chimney.

Important! To improve the quality and reliability of gluing, professional roofers recommend using a hair dryer. All joints are carefully bent, heated and re-glued; due to this operation, adhesion between surfaces is significantly increased, the mastic hermetically covers the stone chips located on the material.

Step 5. Insert the upper metal strip into the chimney groove to fix the position of the pattern. The planks are sold complete with the roof; if you do not have them, then the elements can be made independently from any galvanized and painted metal profile. The strips are fixed with dowels; they not only increase the tightness, but also eliminate the possibility of the patterns being torn off from the surface of the chimney.

Step 6. Carefully seal the junction of the strip with one-component polyurethane sealant. Try to fill the cracks to the full depth; remove excess with your finger.

After gluing all the parts to the chimney, you can continue laying the flexible tiles. The shingles are cut evenly at a distance of 5–8 cm, not reaching the lower edge of the fillet. The side cut of the tiles must be coated with mastic, the same operation must be done in all places where there is no self-adhesive layer. The edge of the cut shingles serves as a groove that directs rainwater in the desired direction. The last tiles to be laid are on the back side of the chimney, then work continues on the entire roof.

Bypass of a chimney pipe on a metal profile roof

Initial data: chimney made of unplastered sand-lime brick; galvanized steel is used for the work.

Practical advice! For the connection, it is better to buy a standard sheet profile for the groove with dimensions of 15x23 cm, the width of the shelf for the groove is 2 cm, the width of the bend of the drainage grooves is 1.6 cm. The profile is galvanized, the zinc thickness is at least 20 microns.

Step 1. Place the profile against the pipe with the side on which there is a curved shelf for entering the groove. Using a construction marker, draw lines around the entire perimeter of the chimney.

Step 2. Using a grinder with a diamond blade, cut a groove at least 2 cm deep. Work carefully, try to make the cuts as even as possible.

Important! Follow safety precautions when working with a cylindrical grinder. Never remove the protective cover and wear glasses. Remember that the disk should rotate towards the worker, and not vice versa. If the direction of rotation is not observed, then during biting the tool will be thrown onto the worker, this can cause very serious injuries.

Step 3. First install the galvanized sheet from the bottom junction of the chimney and the base of the metal tile deck to the eaves. It will drain all the water around the perimeter of the pipe. The chimney can also be lined at the bottom; if this is difficult to do, then place it close to the brickwork.

The first element is galvanized sheet

Step 4. Place the bottom joint on top of this sheet. This order must be observed for any method of draining water from the chimney. When installing sheets along the perimeter, one sheet is folded under the other, which prevents moisture from entering the junction areas. How to take sheet dimensions and prepare a pattern?

This completes the cutting process.

Step 5. Place the cut piece in place, bend its side tabs so that they are pressed as tightly as possible against the surface of the pipe. To do this, you need to bend the profile shelves on the folded tabs, which are inserted into the groove. Make sure that the metal fits as tightly as possible to the surface of the chimney, and do not allow gaps to appear. The reason for their occurrence is incorrectly taken dimensions. If the gap does not exceed 2–3 mm, then there is nothing to worry about, just take into account errors in the future. If the gap is large, you will have to repeat the measurements and cutting the profile.

Step 6. Proceed to form the side junction. Align it with the bottom one, make similar markings for bending and cutting the sheet. Remove excess areas.

Step 7 Place the finished part against the pipe and secure with dowels. Dowels must have rubber gaskets for sealing.

Step 8 Carefully bend the protruding elements onto the lower part of the outlet, and use a wooden or metal hammer to press them together as firmly as possible.

Practical advice! Experienced roofers coat the joint line with sealant before bending. This operation does not take much time, and the reliability of sealing increases significantly. We recommend that all beginners use this technology; they do not yet have enough practical skills in working with metal sheets. As a result, the joints are uneven and water can flow into the cracks.

Install the connection on the opposite side of the chimney in the same way.

Step 9 Proceed with the installation of the closing upper abutment element. It is done according to the same principle as the first one. The only difference is that the bend angle of the profile must be reduced, and in the side bends at the angle of the roof, the upper part, rather than the lower part, must be cut off.

At this point, the fixation of the metal abutment elements is completed; proceed to filling the grooves with sealant. Make sure that the kinks along the edges of the metal sheets fulfill their function and direct the flow of water downward.

Connecting a round chimney to the finished roof

We have already mentioned that this is not the best construction option, but life often dictates its own rules, and you have to solve problems as they arise. Initial data: pitched roof with bitumen tiles, round chimney.

Step 1. Find the exact location of the chimney pipe exit on the roof. To do this, you need to attach a plumb line to the flooring, align it with the center of the stove pipe and make a mark. Drill a through hole according to the mark; working from the roof is much easier.

Step 2. Using a spatula, carefully pry up the shingles and unscrew the screws. If the soft roof is fixed with nails, then the work will become somewhat more complicated. Dismantle the roof using the same method; the dimensions of the freed section of the roof should be 30–40 cm larger than the diameter of the pipe. Carefully stack soft tiles in free space; all of them are reusable.

Step 3. Proceed with installation of the passage element at the chimney outlet; it must be fireproof and airtight. The elements are sold in specialized stores; it is much more profitable and reliable to use factory products than to invent various devices yourself. The kit includes a pass-through element made of high-strength polypropylene, heat-resistant rubber and a metal clamp.

Step 4. Cut a hole in the heat-resistant rubber to fit the diameter of the chimney. To facilitate work, rings with the indicated diameters are cast on the upper surface of the element. Pierce a small hole with a knife, and then you can cut it with scissors.

Step 5. There are special lines on the penetration that indicate different roof slopes. Find the mark with your slope and cut the hole. The plastic is very hard; use metal scissors for cutting. Due to this placement, the chimney will be in a vertical position.

Step 6. At the base of the roof, find a hole pointing to the center of the chimney, place the penetration on the solid sheathing and install it so that the centers are located on the same vertical line. Mark the diameter of the hole to be cut for the pipe, and use an electric jigsaw to cut out the slab.

Step 7 Place the passage element in place and secure it with self-tapping screws to the continuous sheathing.

Step 8 Install the chimney, put a rubber sealing casing on it. Pay attention to the location of the technological mark; it should face forward. Place the metal clamp and tighten it. There is no need to apply much effort; the rubber compresses easily, and too heavy loads can cut it. Assemble the chimney and install all the special elements on it.

Step 9 At the bottom of the perimeter penetration there are special slots for installing sealant. Stick pieces of flexible roofing underlayment into them.

Step 10 Replace the shingles and trim off any excess. To guarantee, coat the joints with a high-quality compound.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

This completes the installation work. To check the reliability of the seal, it is recommended to pour several buckets of water onto the roof.. If leaks are detected, they should be repaired immediately. Doing this in a timely manner is much more profitable than later dealing with unscheduled repairs to the rafter system or roof.

Video - Joining flexible tiles

Video - Chimney. Adjacency

Video - Bypassing a chimney pipe on a metal roof

The protruding part of the chimney pipe is easily exposed to negative environmental influences: temperature changes, rain, snow, wind.

Condensation, which is formed as a result of a temperature difference between the air and the pipe, has a destructive effect on the chimney.

Methods for finishing a chimney on the roof

When the construction of a brick masonry pipe is completed, then, according to construction rules, it is necessary to cover the space between the roof and the chimney with non-combustible roofing material. For this purpose, a protective apron is made.

A protective apron is made around the perimeter of the pipe at the junction with the roof. The apron is made of steel or galvanized sheet in two layers. The first layer is attached under the roofing material, and the second layer is laid on top of the roofing covering. The joints between the apron and the pipe must be sealed.

The protective apron is also called a collar or salary. You can make it yourself or purchase it ready-made.

• if the chimney masonry is made of low-quality material;
• if additional insulation of the pipe is required to ensure good traction;
• if the appearance of the chimney does not match the appearance of the house.

Before lining the chimney, it is necessary to make a frame for the lining material. The frame is made of metal guides or bars coated with an antiseptic.

Table of types of corrugated sheets.

Various materials that have non-flammable properties are used for cladding:

• corrugated sheeting It is galvanized metal coated with polymer paint. It can be smooth or profiled;
• clinker brick. It is durable, weather resistant and compatible with many roofing materials;
• artificial or natural stone. It is often used for finishing facades;
• lime-cement plaster. This method is applicable when the facade of the house is plastered and the building is a solid structure;
• cement fiber boards. This material has an attractive appearance, and its range is available in various colors.
• ready-made double-circuit design. It is a part of a pipe equipped with a steel channel. Finished structures can be faced with brick, plaster or reinforced mesh. They are quite comfortable and have an attractive appearance.

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Chimney lining with corrugated sheeting

Profile sheets are widely used for finishing facades, roofing, and also for the construction of fences. Chimney lining with corrugated sheeting is considered the most popular due to the good characteristics of this material:

• simple installation and ease of maintenance;
• durability;
• light weight;
• resistance to temperature changes;
• non-flammability;
• environmental Safety.

Corrugated sheet is a steel sheet with a profile section. The section of the profile sheet is presented in different shapes, depending on the scope of the material.

The material is most often produced galvanized or steel, coated with polymer paint.

Table of technical characteristics of corrugated sheets.

The structure of this finishing material is a kind of “sandwich”:

• thin rolled steel;
• anti-corrosion zinc coating;
• chromate layer;
• primer;
• paintwork.

Corrugated sheeting is distinguished by a huge assortment, since the range of its use is quite extensive. The main types of profiled sheets are:

• combined. This material is universal, as it is intended for various designs;
• galvanized. Used for roofing;
• colored;
• aluminum. It has high moisture resistance and durability;
• roofing Used for covering roofs and cladding facades;
• facing. Designed for lining chimneys and protecting structures from the damaging effects of the environment;

Corrugated sheeting is one of the most popular materials in modern construction.