Do-it-yourself dismantling of the split system: sequence of actions. A few rules on how to dismantle a household air conditioner How to remove a split system

There is a move ahead. IN new apartment or office. In the same place is an air conditioner, bought with my own money. I really want to take it with me, like my favorite sofa and armchair. Why not dismantle the air conditioner yourself? Save money, moving is already an expensive business. They say that installers remove the air conditioner in 15 minutes, but am I completely armless? But first you need to find out how much it costs to remove an air conditioner according to all the rules.

Price of work

If you summarize the prices for dismantling household air conditioners, you will get a very simple ratio on average: 1 W – 1 rub. That is, the cost of dismantling an apartment air conditioner will cost 2500-4000 rubles, and a large one for an office or a mansion - 8000-1000. For dismantling the cassette built into suspended ceiling, the price increases by 5-15%. Quite a lot.

The price of amateur performance

It is intuitively clear to a more or less technically literate person that it is impossible to simply unscrew the fittings - after all, the system is filled with freon inside; if you simply remove the fittings, it will leak out, and refilling costs 800-1500 rubles. Therefore, some kind of devices and tools are needed. Let's ask.

What is exactly needed to dismantle the air conditioner is a pressure manifold. The cheapest one costs about 1,500 rubles, or even 3,500. It’s almost the price of dismantling. Another set of hex socket wrenches, a pipe cutter - about 250, if you rent a pipe cutter. So we came to almost the cost professional dismantling. Oh yes, also steeplejack work, the outer unit is hanging on the wall. We add another 500 for safety equipment. And a risk to life.

Why is it so difficult and expensive? Is it possible to somehow simplify it and make it cheaper? Let's try to figure it out. At least how to do without a pressure gauge and save freon. So that your work is somehow justified.

How does the air conditioner work?

The principle of operation of an air conditioner is known: the compressor of the outdoor unit (condensing) pumps out refrigerant vapors from the indoor unit (evaporative), they condense, heat up, and release heat environment through the radiator of the outdoor unit, then the liquid refrigerant is supplied to the evaporator of the indoor unit, evaporates there, absorbing the heat of the room, and the cycle repeats.

From here you can already see one weak spot - the air conditioning compressor pump. Working in such difficult conditions, it must be a fairly complex unit. That's right - household air conditioners use cam vacuum pumps. Its heart is two or three (in this case, there are three cams on each rotor) rotors of complex configuration in a sealed chamber, see fig. Additional seals, such as piston rings, gaskets, valves, etc. No; the required tightness and one-sided action are ensured solely due to the precision machining of parts. Any other design will not provide the required performance at such temperature and pressure differences.

Now it’s clear why the pump is so vulnerable: the slightest scratch from a speck of dust, a piece of ice or a piece of oxide from the pipes - and the air conditioner will waste electricity wasting the refrigerant rather than cooling the room. After all, on one side of the pump there is freon vapor at minus -70 degrees (approximately) at a pressure of a fraction of an atmosphere, and on the other, its condensate at +80 at a pressure of several atmospheres. And freon is extremely fluid.

Note: The figure shows holes drilled into the ends of the rotors. They are needed for perfect balance - the cam pump fails even from its own vibration.

It is for the sake of preserving the pump that air conditioners are sold filled with purified inert gas under pressure (remember, it was vented during installation), and before filling the system, they are pumped out to a vacuum to remove water vapor - if they freeze in the system, they will form ice, which will quickly disable the air conditioner.

Knowing all this, let's try to figure out how to remove the air conditioner yourself, and what the risk factors are.

Outdoor unit

Without touching on the dangers of industrial mountaineering, let's start right away with the technology. The first rule is to spare no pipes. If longer ones are needed in a new location, you will have to lay new ones: extending pipelines in any way means most likely killing the air conditioner. If you need the new ones shorter, then slightly trimmed old ones (see below) will do; In extreme cases, you will have to move the indoor unit a little.

To dismantle the condensing unit, in addition to simple mechanics (brackets, fastenings) and electricity (wires - from the terminals, labeled, and in a new place - into the same terminals), the home-made master needs to know the location of the freon fittings on the outdoor unit, see fig. Explanations for positions:

The fitting of the steam (supply) pipeline, it is thicker;
Liquid (discharge) pipeline fitting, thinner;
Liquid fitting cover;
Steam connection cover;
Nipple.

The fitting covers can be removed while the air conditioner is operating; underneath they reveal internal nuts with hexagonal slots under socket wrench. The nipple is also covered with a lid in working order; in the figure it has been removed, and the nipple rod is slightly visible; by pressing on it, the coolant is released from the system.

The outdoor unit is dismantled in the following order:

A pressure gauge is attached to the nipple;
The air conditioner is turned on from the remote control for constant cold;
After 10 minutes, having removed the cover of the liquid fitting, tighten its internal nut tightly - the pipeline is blocked, the pump pumps freon into the condensation chamber;
Monitor the pressure gauge readings - when it shows minus 1 MPa (minus one atmosphere, technical vacuum), tighten the steam fitting nut as tightly as possible;
The air conditioner is immediately completely disconnected from the network;
Pipes 15-20 cm from the fittings are cut off with a pipe cutter, and all four ends are IMMEDIATELY caulked, as shown in the figure;
In the same way, very quickly, the pipes at the indoor unit are cut and caulked;
Screw all fitting caps and nipples into place;
Dismantling electrical part, remove outdoor unit, packed in shipping containers.

Risk factor #1: In addition to the obvious ones (dust getting into open pipelines and air with moisture vapor into the evaporation chamber), there is one more, most serious danger - transporting air conditioners filled with refrigerant is strictly prohibited. After the described operations, the outdoor unit will be pumped with freon under a pressure of several atmospheres, and any shock during transportation may simply “bang”. IN best case scenario– you will hear a loud hiss, the meaning of which is simple: a new air conditioner.

Is it possible without a pressure gauge? Dear, even for rent! There is a way, but the probability that after it the air conditioner will work in a new place is no more than 50%: let the pump pump for at least 5 minutes, and then press the nipple rod. It doesn’t hiss - all the freon is already in the condenser.

Risk factor #2: the pump is not designed for even short-term operation “excitedly”. The back pressure at its outlet will literally within a few seconds exceed the maximum permissible (there is no outflow of refrigerant, it is blocked), and the air conditioner may break down forever right before your eyes.

Note: caulking pipes with pliers is absolutely unreliable. You need to compress the end of the pipe with a small benchtop bench vice as hard as you can, or not caulk it, but roll it. Rolling presses are included in kits for cutting copper pipes, but such a kit costs several times more than a separate pipe cutter, and also for rent.

Warnings:

Under no circumstances remove the union nuts of fittings with rolled pipes. This is shown in the figure as an example only. Neglecting this will usually cost you a new air conditioner.
When transporting, handle protruding pipe tails with extreme caution. Consequences of breaking or sharp bending - see previous warning.

Indoor unit

At first glance, dismantling the indoor unit of the air conditioner seems simpler: all the freon has been pumped out, the pipe stubs are caulked, all that remains is to remove it from the wall. But this is the self-confidence of a new sapper who has discharged his first mine.

The evaporation unit is inserted from above into the grooves of the guides with latches. The design of the latches is designed for the work of specially trained and certified personnel equipped with special tools; Each manufacturer has its own snapping system. That is, designers specially design latches so that the DIYer cannot do anything with them. Have you heard of “fool protection”? This is who she is.

Do-it-yourselfers are not fools, and methods for opening latches different systems invent. And here the second stage of foolproof protection comes into play: the tangle of thin tubes of the evaporation chamber is located dangerously close to the latches.

Risk factor 3: fiddling with latches randomly or homemade instrument, it is very easy, even knowing their design, to damage the evaporator .

Notes:

In most household air conditioners, in order to get to the latches more or less safely, you have to remove the evaporator cover. And its fastenings are facing the wall (the principle Chinese puzzle). The most desperate Kulibins get out of the situation by taking a piece of a Phillips screwdriver and unscrewing the fastening screws, holding it with pliers.
Three people are needed to dismantle the indoor unit, otherwise another risk factor is added: the unit will fall down and break.
The most simple system latching – with the latching heads facing the wall. In this case, it is possible to get by with two thin screwdrivers, inserted into the groove of the bracket between it and the wall, while simultaneously pressing the latches with both hands, and assistants lifting up the block.

Video: dismantling the external and internal air conditioner units

Moving often involves partial or complete dismantling of the air conditioner. And if a certain type of technology does not require the use of a special tool and certain technical skills (for example, washing machine), then other devices require a careful approach. And such devices include air conditioners.

Is it possible to dismantle the air conditioner with your own hands?

It is enough to have a pre-purchased specialized tool on hand, know some technical subtleties and take your time. The question arises: why waste time and effort if you can call the appropriate specialists who will perform the necessary operations in a short time? You can, but there are two reasons why you shouldn't:

The price is the most important aspect. Average price policy for dismantling a modern split system is 4,000 rubles. We are talking about small apartment models. If the device has substantial dimensions and is installed mainly in offices, then the price will rise to 10,000 rubles. Quite significant for the budget.
The likelihood of ending up with low-quality “specialists”. The modern desire of the population to do their own business leads to the massive appearance of people who do not understand the work they do. Also with some air conditioning “masters”. Therefore, the chance increases that the procedure will be performed poorly at a high cost.

But it should be said right away that manually removing a split system cannot always be successful. A common problem is a complete leakage of freon, which is quite expensive, and the price of a new one is at least 1,500 rubles. Therefore, when removing, all actions must be performed precisely.

The necessary tool and its possible replacement

If you have the means, you can hire a specialist to remove and install modern split systems, without even paying attention to the manufacturers of this tool, which changes the pricing policy. But then the point of independent dismantling, which is carried out in order to save money, disappears. Therefore, some types of tools are best replaced with cheaper ones, and some will have to be abandoned altogether.

List of tools required for disassembly:

Gauge manifold. This is a necessary thing, as it will show the pressure when pumping freon into the outdoor unit. And this particular measuring device falls into the category of tools that you should discard (at your own peril and risk), since its minimum cost is 1,500 rubles. A more reliable one will cost 3000-3500 rubles.

Example of a pressure gauge for split systems

Set of hexagons. This position is mandatory, since the fitting cannot be unscrewed any other way. Fortunately, the price of such keys is not exorbitant - 3000-350 rubles.
Pipe cutter It is inexpensive (about 300 rubles), but you can reduce costs even further and purchase an ordinary hacksaw, which will later be useful for housework.
Flat and figured screwdrivers. Now they are sold in any hardware store or hardware store.
Safety equipment if the air conditioner is located on upper floors. It’s not worth saving here, and not paying for a product whose cost is less than 1000-1500 rubles.

And one more prerequisite is the presence of an assistant, or preferably two. Both the external and internal units have a significant weight, so it will be problematic to handle it yourself; you can accidentally damage the device.

What to pay attention to when dismantling

The most fragile place in an air conditioner is the compressor pump. Despite its compact size, the design of such a pump includes complex mechanical components: rotors with cams, sealed system elements and a chamber in which the main work takes place.

If ordinary dust gets in, the walls of the chamber may be damaged, and accordingly, freon will move aimlessly around the system without doing any work. useful work. Therefore, the main slogan when dismantling the air conditioner is to preserve the vacuum in the system, which, in turn, requires the tightness of all external openings.

Main types of removal: with and without freon preservation

How to remove or hang the air conditioner from the wall without losing freon? As mentioned above, freon is quite expensive, and when removing the air conditioner yourself, it should be saved. But if the service life of the device is long, and the freon needs to be replaced, then when moving, you don’t have to save it, but simply drain it and dispose of it.

On the outside of the split system there are service valves with protective caps covering special slots. To access the slots, the caps should be disassembled and the hexagon should be installed only in the valve on the thin tube located at the bottom of the device.

Removing special hex splines

Now you should set the lowest air cooling temperature and turn on the device at maximum operating mode. Some models have a turbo option.
After switching on the enhanced operating mode, the valve (with the hexagon installed) should be tightened. From this moment, the system must operate for at least one minute, during which all the freon will flow into the external unit.
After freon is pumped into the outdoor unit, the gas line is shut off and the device is turned off. It should be remembered that continuing to operate the air conditioner in this mode with two valves closed will lead to damage to the split system.
Unscrew the nuts securing the copper lines covered with a heat-insulating layer, which should also be removed. Now the tubes bend neatly and can be removed through the hole in the wall.

When removing external unit assistant needed

After completing all of the above operations, you can begin to directly dismantle the air conditioner, which is best started by removing the external unit.

It is very important to remember that the pipes should be sealed after removal. Often, simple adhesive tape, film or electrical tape is used for this. More in a reliable way is to close them using simple pliers. If you approach the problem with full responsibility, then the ends of the pipes should be securely closed using a bench vice, thus preventing the penetration of moisture and dust into the evaporation chamber.

How to properly and quickly dismantle the external unit of a split system

This procedure should not be performed if the system is installed on upper floors multi-storey building. This can be life-threatening.

Removing the external unit on the upper floors

Removal of the external unit of the split system occurs only after all the above operations have been correctly completed. Dismantling should begin by disconnecting the input electrical cable, the wires of which are suitable for the air conditioner terminal box, located under a special protective cover. To simplify the connection of the device at a new location, the wires should be marked with the appropriate colors (red - phase, blue - zero, yellow-green - ground).

All that remains is to unscrew the nuts that secure the air conditioner to the brackets. This is not a problem, but an assistant is needed to support the external unit during the entire process. Once the nuts are unscrewed, you can carefully remove the unit and prepare it for transportation.

Don't forget the brackets to which the air conditioner is attached. They are usually mounted using dowels to the outside of the wall, and dismantling takes a little time.

You should know that split system manufacturers strictly prohibit the transportation of devices into which freon is pumped. Why? The answer is simple: after all the above actions, excessive pressure forms in the system, and the air conditioner housing is not designed to withstand even the slightest mechanical impact. Therefore, without necessary conditions(covering the block with a sealant or special film) the block body can simply break through. This can be understood by the characteristic hissing.

Removing the indoor unit

After the external unit has been dismantled, it is necessary to dismantle the internal (located in the room) air conditioner unit. There are fewer problems with it, since there is no need to work even at low heights, but there is a certain dismantling procedure and additional tricks.

You shouldn’t relax and think that it’s enough to unscrew a few nuts, remove the indoor unit, and send it to a new place. The main trick lies in the desire of air conditioner manufacturers to make the process of removing the device as inaccessible as possible for craftsmen. That is why each indoor unit has a latch system with which it is attached to the wall. You can only work with such fasteners using a special tool, but no hopeless situations, and it is quite possible to choose something simpler.

Two screwdrivers will help you quickly remove the latches

Another tip: when removing a block, it is best to have not one assistant, but two. This is due to the fact that the indoor unit is quite bulky and heavy, and one person may simply not be able to handle it.

The two most common options for removing the indoor unit are:

The most simple design sometimes it is the most difficult, which is why manufacturers of split systems try to hide the latches under the evaporator cover. The cover bolts are located inward, so to unscrew them you will need a special short bit in the form of a shaped screwdriver and a head with a ratchet.
In addition to securing the evaporator cover, they try to make the latches themselves internal. If you don't have a special tool, you can use two flat-head screwdrivers and push them between the bracket and the wall. Now it’s enough to press a little (you shouldn’t be too zealous, they can be removed without effort), and an assistant can easily remove the internal block.

Removing the indoor unit with an assistant

There is one circumstance that can significantly interfere with work - the presence of a large number of evaporation tubes, and they are usually located near the mounting brackets. Therefore, when working with brackets, you should be as careful as possible so as not to damage them.

How to properly re-hang an air conditioner

Situations often arise in which relocating an air conditioner is more important than completely dismantling it. In this case, one of the blocks is left in its place, and for the second the tubes are simply extended. The process of removing both the internal and external units is no different from those described above, the only difference is the need to build up copper or ordinary pipes.

When dismantling one of the units, you should also monitor the safety of freon and pump it into the outdoor unit before carrying out all operations. After undocking the split system, it is necessary to rehang it as carefully as possible, without damaging the air conditioner housing. To save more money, you don’t have to do the soldering of pipes yourself, but entrust this task to specialists. Split system service technicians have a corresponding column in their price list, which is called extension of the interblock route.

Having prepared the necessary tool, read the instructions and watched the corresponding videos on the Internet, you should also learn several important subtleties:

Both when completely dismantling the split system, and when partially moving the device, you should not worry too much about the safety of the copper pipes. Replacing them will not cost too much money and installing new ones is always better than repairing old ones.
If it is difficult to understand which pipeline is liquid and which is gas, then you need to pay attention to the diameter of the pipes. The liquid pipeline, which is also the outlet pipeline, is always thinner than the gas supply pipeline.

Examples of pipes on an air conditioner

During transportation, the system should be covered with any seal, since any blow to the housing can lead to loss of freon or failure of the device.

And the most important advice is never to rush, since these systems require precise and careful movements; strength will not always help here.

Dismantling the air conditioner yourself is an operation on which you can save money. But is this really so? The fact is that most people do not know how to do it and end up with non-working climate control equipment. Air entering the split system oxidizes copper pipes, resulting in the “killing” of these devices.

To properly remove the climate control equipment, you need to do some preparatory work, namely, prepare the necessary tools, shipping containers for the internal and external units of the split system. Now is the time to prepare the air conditioner itself.

Preparing climate control equipment for shutdown and removal

The preparation is complete, now all that remains is to dismantle the indoor and outdoor units of the air conditioner.

Removing the internal and external modules

It would seem that now that all the freon has been pumped into the condensation chamber and the main tubes are disconnected from the device, it is not difficult to remove it from the wall. But many people ask: “How to remove the air conditioner from the wall.” There are few difficulties with the outdoor unit of a split system, and only if it is installed on a balcony or within reach.

With the internal unit of the climate control device, everything is much more complicated. The whole problem is that the latches securing the block to the mounting strip It is almost impossible for an untrained person, especially one who does not have a specialized tool.

Important!
When disconnecting and removing the internal unit of the split system, a particular danger arises due to the possibility of deformation of the evaporator pipes, which are located in close proximity to the air conditioner mount.

The dismantling process occurs in several stages

Opening the fastening latches.
Removal from the mounting along the guides of the indoor unit.
Remove the mount itself from the wall.
Packing it for subsequent transportation.

Advice:
If you are unsure of your abilities or do not have the necessary tools, then it is better to leave the work of dismantling the split system to professionals.

You can remove the external unit of a prepared split system yourself only if it is located on your balcony. In all other cases, you will need professional industrial climbers, because it is mounted on the wall of the house.

Removing the climate system is not particularly difficult, but before doing so, you should think carefully about whether the money saved is worth the lost time and health risks of dismantling it yourself?

Partial or complete dismantling of the air conditioner is carried out for various reasons - renovation of the apartment, moving, installation in another room, and so on. The standard approach is to call employees of a specialized company to properly remove the split system and pay for this service. More economical option- dismantle the air conditioner with your own hands, having understood the intricacies of the procedure. This is not to say that it is simple, but with the right approach it is quite feasible.

About the methods and difficulties of dismantling with your own hands

As a rule, owners of private houses and apartments install 2 types of air conditioners - monoblock (mobile) and split systems. There are no special problems with the first ones, since in similar models all the main elements are enclosed in a single housing, and to move the unit you just need to disconnect the air duct.

In addition to monoblocks and “splits,” there are other types of climate control systems - cassette, duct and column. But usually such equipment is installed in offices, shopping centers and other premises large area, in private homes it is used quite rarely.

The split system consists of two sections located inside and outside the home. They are connected to each other by two highways, along which in different states of aggregation refrigerant circulates - freon. Through a copper tube of small diameter it flows in the form of a liquid from the external unit to the internal one. Along the highway large diameter the refrigerant gas moves in the opposite direction. This gives rise to a number of difficulties that await the ignorant user when attempting to dismantle them independently:

Complete or partial loss of freon as a result of unqualified disconnection of main pipelines.
Air containing moisture entering the tubes and heat exchangers. At incorrect installation split systems in another place, incompressible moisture will enter the compressor and can harm it.
Clogging of copper tubes when pulling them out of the wall and during transportation. Moisture or sand in the freon circuit is the quick “death” of the compressor.
When disconnecting the lines from the pipes of the internal section, you can accidentally twist the threaded fittings soldered to them.
Disconnecting power wires without marking the terminals where they were connected leads to confusion during the re-installation process.
The drainage pipe that leads condensate to the street is cut too short.
Loss during transportation of screws and other small parts that are not secured after dismantling.

Most of the listed cases lead to expensive repairs of your air conditioner in a specialized workshop, so before removing the split system, you must carefully study the instructions below.

There are three ways to dismantle the indoor and outdoor units:

simple disassembly with release of refrigerant into the atmosphere;
with preservation of freon in the system using the “by eye” method;
using special equipment that allows you to completely save the refrigerant in the circuit.

The last method gives the best results, although all three are used in certain circumstances. So that you do not have any problems with installation removed air conditioner and its further operation, it is recommended to act according to the third option, after first familiarizing yourself with the freon preservation method.

Preparatory activities

First of all, you need to prepare the following set of tools and accessories:

Phillips and flat head screwdrivers;
set of open-end wrenches;
stationery knife;
hex keys measuring 5...10 mm;
pressure manifold or pressure gauge with tube and threaded connection, designed for maximum pressure 10-15 Bar;
masking tape and marker;
insulating tape or regular tape.

You will definitely need a pressure manifold if you plan to install a split system in another room, so it is better to rent it, but buying it will be too expensive.

Also, for convenient and safe work, a stepladder is needed to easily reach the internal module installed under the ceiling. External section located on the wall apartment building, it is better to pull it through the window, having previously tied it with a rope. The services of an assistant will be useful here.

An important preparation step is to ensure that the refrigerant remains intact. least losses. For this, the operating principle of the air conditioner is used, thanks to which all the freon can be collected in one place - the circuit of the outdoor unit. Having prepared the tools, proceed according to the instructions:

Covering with your hand infrared element on the remote control remote control, switch the split system to “Turbo” mode and set minimum temperature. Remove your hand from the element and point the remote control at the air conditioner. In this way, you start the compressor immediately at full power.
Connect the hose from the pressure gauge to the service fitting located on the side of the outdoor unit, after which it will immediately indicate the pressure in the system. In some models, these pipes are hidden under a cover; it must be removed.
Unscrew the 2 nuts - plugs located at the ends of the fittings. Under them you will find valves that can be adjusted with a hex key. Select the appropriate hexagon size.
Turn off the tap of the liquid refrigerant line (this is a thinner tube) and monitor the pressure gauge. At this time, the compressor draws in freon gas through the second tube.
When the device needle drops to zero and begins to go into the vacuum zone, close the second valve and quickly turn off the air conditioner using the remote control. That's all, the refrigerant is in full volume in the circuit of the external module.

In split systems filled with different brands freon (sometimes R22 and R410), the diameter of the thread of the service fitting where the pressure gauge is connected is different. For R410 you need a special adapter, which should be prepared in advance.

The refrigerant is stored using the “by eye” method without a pressure gauge manifold. After closing the liquid valve, wait about 40-50 seconds, then close gas tap and turn off household appliance. The disadvantage is clear: you will not know how much freon managed to get into the outdoor unit, and keeping the compressor running for a long time with the line blocked is unacceptable. The result will appear the next time you install “split” and launch it.

Instructions for removing the external module of a split system

The outdoor unit of the air conditioner must be dismantled when moving or moving it to a new location. To repair an apartment, it is not necessary to remove the outer section, but you will still have to disconnect the freon lines, cable and drainage. The work is performed in the following order:

Unscrew the pressure gauge hose used when pumping refrigerant and replace the end cap nuts.
Using an open-end wrench, unscrew the union nuts holding the copper tubes to the fittings and bend them to the side. Using adhesive tape or tape, protect all open holes in the lines and pipes of the external module so that debris and dust do not get inside during operation.
To disconnect electrical cable, disconnect the device from the power supply and remove the cover covering the terminals (located above the freon valves). Before unscrewing the wires, place a strip of masking tape over the terminals and label them with a color marker to document the wiring order. Disconnect the wires and remove the cable.
Tie the disconnected lines to the bracket of the outdoor unit so that the copper tubes do not dangle or bend, otherwise they will have to be replaced.
Unscrew the 4 nuts securing the external module to the bracket, tie it with a rope and, together with an assistant, remove the unit.

Professional refrigeration technicians often practice a slightly different approach: they do not unscrew the union nuts and do not remove the freon tubes from the fittings of the outdoor unit, but bite them off. Then there is no need to wrap the ends of the pipelines with tape to protect them from moisture and debris, because they are flattened with wire cutters. During subsequent installation, the flattened ends are cut off and flared for connection with a union nut.

After disconnecting the cable cores from the terminals, tighten the contact screws and tighten them, as they may fall out and get lost during transportation.

It is better to remove the bracket itself later, when you untie the freon circuit pipelines from it. If the lines extend out of the wall no more than a meter, then there is no need to tie them down. The tubes should be carefully aligned to make it easier to pull them in from the inside. The bracket is most often mounted on 4 anchor bolt, unscrewed with a regular open-end wrench.

Correct disconnection of highways from the external section - photo gallery

The lines are disconnected after unscrewing the union nuts. Screw the plugs that close the port valves into place. Unscrew the cap to disconnect the wires. Having marked the location of the wires, disconnect the cable. After disconnecting the cable, the screws on the block must be tightened. According to the rules, copper pipelines must be bitten off. The bitten off tubes must be plugged.

How to remove the outdoor module while saving freon - video

How to dismantle the indoor unit of an air conditioner yourself

To remove the internal module from the wall, you need to disconnect all communications from it - cable, tubes for freon and condensate. The place where the pipelines are twisted is usually located in a housing niche located in the lower part. Depending on the split system model, there are 2 ways to get to this niche:

Unlock the 3-4 plastic latches securing the bottom of the unit to the mounting plate. Move the bottom of the housing away from the wall and insert any rod between them, remove the communications harness from the niche.
If your split model does not have latches, then you need to remove the front plastic panel, having previously dismantled the blinds and additional covers (when available).

When you get to the tourniquet, do on it lengthwise cut stationery knife, which will allow you to move the insulation and grab the nuts with wrenches. Don't make the cut too long, otherwise you'll have to change it later. thermal insulation material. Perform further operations in this order:

Use two open-end wrenches to unscrew the joints of the lines. Important point: the drive soldered to the short tube of the block itself cannot be rotated; it must be held in place with a wrench while unscrewing the union nut.
Wrap the ends of the pipelines with electrical tape or tape to protect them from dirt.
Find the joint between the drain pipe and the outlet pipe and disconnect it. You should not cut the corrugation anywhere, so that later it will be more convenient to join it back together.
Remove the cover of the electrical compartment (located on the right side of the case or under the front panel), make notes using a marker and tape, then unscrew the screws and disconnect the cable cores. Tighten the screws back and screw on the cover.
When all communications are disconnected, grab the housing from both sides and remove it from the mounting plate, lifting it up slightly. Give the block to your assistant.
Remove the mounting plate by unscrewing all the dowels.

Considering that condensation may remain in the pan of the indoor module, it is advisable to protect the wall before dismantling plastic film. If you are removing the conditioner for apartment renovation, then such precaution is unnecessary.

After removing the inner section from the wall, place all the unscrewed parts on it, tighten the screws and put on the mounting plate. Place protruding pipes in a niche, securing masking tape. Use the same material to secure the opening front panel so that it does not dangle during transportation.

The last step is the dismantling of communications laid along the wall or inside it. There are no difficulties here, the main thing is not to bend the copper tubes under a small radius. Such treatment at the bend reduces the flow area, and it is quite difficult to align the tube with an oval profile. From outer wall Pull out the harness carefully so as not to damage the insulation. If the hole has been sealed polyurethane foam, then it must be cut out in parts. When finished, roll the tourniquet into a ring and secure with tape.

Procedure for dismantling the indoor module - photo gallery

To disconnect the electrical wiring, you need to remove the cover of the electrical compartment. Before disconnecting the wires, write down the order of their connection. Cut the harness running in the niche with a knife and get to the junction of the tubes. Unscrew the connecting nuts. The junction of the drainage tubes. Disconnect the cable running in the same harness. The indoor unit can be easily removed with both hands. The last one stage - removing the mounting plate Having tilted the body, it must be fixed in this position

How to remove internal blocks of different designs - video

Disassembly in winter

If the outside temperature has dropped to -5°C or more, it is recommended to refrain from dismantling for the following reasons:

it will not be possible to pump the refrigerant into the external module;
in cold weather, you cannot disassemble connections, unscrew plugs or close service ports;
As a result of disassembly, service valve seals often fail.

In a situation where, without removing the split system when negative temperature not to be avoided, be sure to warm up the fittings of the outdoor unit construction hairdryer. Then unscrew the plugs and close both valves, thus retaining some of the freon remaining in the outdoor unit circuit. Then slowly unscrew the lines from the fittings and disconnect them, releasing the second part of the refrigerant into the atmosphere. Then proceed according to the algorithm described above.

Personnel from specialized companies use freon to pump out winter time manometric stations. But if you rent such equipment, then dismantling will cost more than paying specialists, and the result will be dubious.

At temperatures above -5°C, you can perform work according to standard instructions, but it is advisable to use a pressure gauge to control the pumping of refrigerant. If you act “by eye”, you may not guess the holding time and will still lose some of the freon. It is equally dangerous to keep the compressor running without cooling (and it is cooled by circulating freon); overheating can cause it to fail.

You will successfully dismantle your home air conditioner if you get to work during the warm season and follow the instructions provided. You must not miss a single detail, act very carefully and without haste. Do not neglect the pressure gauge, since the loss of refrigerant will negate all savings from this procedure.

Installing and dismantling air conditioners from LG, Panasonic or other brands is not an easy task that requires special skills and abilities. It is no coincidence that this procedure is performed by professionals, and its cost is quite high. However, in case of emergency, you can remove the air conditioner yourself, if you know and follow the correct procedure and also have the necessary tools. All stages of the process are described step by step, as well as the features of winter dismantling and nuances for split systems of different brands - in the material below.

When there is no need to remove the split system

In some cases, it is not necessary to dismantle the split system, for example, when carrying out cosmetic repairs. To hang wallpaper, there is no need to completely remove the air conditioner - just unfasten the latches, remove the indoor unit from the mounting plate, unscrew it, glue the wallpaper, and then return the equipment to its place.

On a note! If the house is undergoing renovations and plastering, leveling, cladding or other actions with the walls will be carried out, it is not necessary to dismantle both blocks - it is enough to disconnect only the inner one. The length of the route should be sufficient for subsequent installation of the unit.

Precautionary measures

If the air conditioner is broken and cannot be repaired, dismantling it is very simple, since there is no need to take precautions and preserve freon, as well as the integrity of vital components. WITH working equipment we need to act differently. Not only dust, but also air must not be allowed to enter the system, otherwise, after installation and subsequent startup of the device in a new location, it is almost guaranteed to be damaged. Also, when dismantling the split system, it is important save freon, so that you don’t need to download it again, since this service will not be cheap.

Advice! During dismantling, you need to carefully work with the wires. When disconnecting them, it is recommended to photograph the connections or make notes. Incorrect connection can lead to equipment failure.

Only if the owner climate control equipment I am sure that he will be able to correctly fulfill the above conditions, you can begin dismantling the air conditioner on your own.

Dismantling step by step

The need to remove the air conditioner may arise for several reasons: when moving to another home, during renovations in the apartment, to fix a breakdown in the equipment itself, etc. Depending on the situation, complete or partial dismantling of the split system may be required. How to remove only the indoor unit from the wall was discussed above, but to completely dismantle the equipment you need to adhere to the following algorithm:

carry out preparatory work;
release freon;
disconnect and dismantle the outdoor unit;
disconnect the compressor (if necessary);
remove the indoor unit.

All actions must be performed with caution and according to the instructions so as not to damage the air conditioner.

Preparatory work

Preparatory work includes collecting necessary tools, among which you will need professional ones. So, the master must have:

set of slotted and nut screwdrivers;
set of hexagon socket wrenches;
pliers;
manometric station;
pipe cutter and side cutter;
knife for construction work;
a set of open-end and adjustable wrenches;
screwdriver;
drill.

Important! If the outdoor unit is removed at a significant height, safety equipment will be required.

Freon release

Before carrying out work on dismantling the air conditioner, you will need to drain the freon. If you plan to reinstall the device to another location, this procedure must be performed so that collect refrigerant in the outdoor unit. There are two ways to solve this problem: the first is with a pressure gauge, the second is through a refrigerant recovery and recovery station, which is connected to a cylinder with two valves. The device used in the latter case is equipped with its own pressure gauge and compressor, which allows you to pump out freon in liquid or gaseous form.

First way simpler, but it is only used if it is possible to start the device. Then the freon is moved to the outdoor unit using its own compressor.

Second method more complicated, requires skills, and renting such a station is very expensive. Its advantage is that freon can be pumped out even in winter, when starting up equipment is not permissible. In addition, the outdoor unit is evacuated, and no refrigerant remains in the condenser, which is safer when transporting the device.

To collect freon in the outdoor unit of the air conditioner using a pressure gauge, you need to find two fittings on it with thin and thick tubes. The first is used to transfer liquid refrigerant to the evaporator from the condenser. The second is necessary to pump freon in gaseous form into the condenser. Each of the fittings has caps covering the heads of the shut-off valves, while the gas one is equipped with an outlet with a nipple. Next, to collect the refrigerant in the outdoor unit, follow these steps:

remove the protective covers from the nipple and fittings;
connect the pressure gauge to the nipple;
run the split system for maximum cooling;
after a few minutes, shut off the flow of refrigerant into the evaporator;
observe the pressure gauge readings.

When the value appears on the device “-1 MPa” it is necessary to close the gas fitting hexagon and immediately turn off the split system. It should not be allowed to run for a long time in idle mode, this may result in compressor failure. That is why it is recommended to work with an assistant, and not by yourself - not everyone will be able to quickly run to the split system to turn it off.

On a note! The value “-1 MPa” indicates that the refrigerant is collected in the condenser, and a technical vacuum has formed in the remaining components.

Removing the outdoor unit

After draining the refrigerant, you should begin dismantling the units. But before this, you need to disconnect the tubes, for which you can use one of two methods.

First method- unscrew the nuts that secure the tubes to the fittings. In their place special covers are put on. This way the tubes will remain intact, but during this procedure the air will most likely end up inside the compressor.

Second method- step back approximately 15 cm of the tube from the fittings and cut it with side cutters. Then the edges must be folded and clamped with a vice. With this method, the line will need to be replaced, but the procedure itself is quick, which means that air and dust are less likely to penetrate the compressor. Similarly, you need to cut and clamp the tube near the indoor unit to protect the evaporator.

Removing the compressor

Sometimes the external unit is removed to repair the compressor. Then the dismantling actions look different - the refrigerant is completely removed from the system. To avoid loss of freon, it is pumped into a cylinder using a special station, and in the summer it can be released into the atmosphere.

On a note! When dismantling the compressor, it is not necessary to clamp the tubes or close the valve caps, because after installing a new working compressor, the outdoor unit is evacuated with a special pump.

Compressor replacement work It is recommended to entrust it to specialists, since to carry them out it is necessary to have a large number of professional equipment: Vacuum pump, pressure gauge, gas burner. If the user wants to perform these actions independently, he should:

remove the protective casing from the external unit;
by using gas burner disconnect the nozzles of the discharge and suction pipes;
disconnect the electrical cable;
Unscrew and remove the fasteners holding the fan and capacitor;
remove the capacitor;
remove the fasteners and dismantle the compressor.

Now you can remove the pulley from the compressor or perform other work. Installing a new compressor done in reverse order.

To dismantle the indoor unit you will need:

pull out the protective plugs according to the instructions, unscrew the fasteners, remove the housing cover;
disconnect the power cable by disconnecting it from the terminals and remove it from the air conditioner;
remove the drainage tube and place a container to drain the remaining liquid;
cut, bend and clamp copper tubes, as on an external unit;
unclip the fasteners and remove the block from the mounting plate;
Unscrew the screws that secure the plate to the wall and remove it.

Features of the process in winter

Most modern split systems operate both in summer and winter. They can be used for heating a room or for cooling, for example, server rooms. You need to know that you can collect freon only by running the air conditioner in cooling mode. The difficulty of working in cold weather is that there is a lower temperature threshold, in which the split system functions properly. Such limitations are explained by the operation of the compressor on oil, which tends to change its consistency and become thick at low air temperatures.

On a note! For conventional air conditioners, the lower threshold is set in the range from +5°С to -5°С, for inverters – up to – 15°С or lower (maximum value -25°С).

In this regard, when dismantling equipment, it is necessary to take into account the air temperature outside. In winter, if a “winter kit” (heating compressor crankcase) is not installed on the split system, to carry out work to preserve freon you need to use a special station, since it uses an oil-free compressor.

Features of the process for different types of air conditioners

The process of dismantling an air conditioner may differ depending on its type. IN living conditions most commonly used today split systems consisting of an indoor and outdoor unit. The process of removing them was presented above.

The second type of air conditioners for home use- This window devices . They consist of one block, which is mounted in a window or in a special hole in the window prepared for equipment. Dismantling in this case is very simple: just remove the device from seat, having first removed the retaining fasteners.

In addition, they are often used in everyday life mobile air conditioners . These devices do not require installation, and therefore do not require subsequent removal.

Other types of air conditioners ( channel, cassette, column etc.) are used for cooling retail spaces, industrial halls, etc. Only a group of professionals can handle their dismantling.

Important! Independent maintenance and dismantling of professional climate control equipment is not permitted. To carry out any work with this equipment, you should contact specialists.

Consequences of incorrect dismantling

Improper dismantling of the air conditioner can have a number of unpleasant consequences:

the cooling circuit will lose its tightness and/or freon will leak - fixing this problem will be very expensive;
dust particles or droplets of water may get inside the circuit, which will negatively affect the operation of the compressor - which is why it is not recommended to remove the split system during rain or snowfall;
there is a risk of the outdoor unit falling from a height, which will lead to its breakdown and subsequent replacement;
Mechanical damage to one of the blocks or the route may occur, which can lead to depressurization of the housing, leakage of refrigerant, and the ingress of moisture and dirt.

Thus, so that freon does not leak out, liquid or dust does not penetrate into the system, and the equipment does not suffer damage, it is necessary to act as carefully as possible and follow the dismantling rules.

So, despite the fact that it is recommended to entrust the work of dismantling the air conditioner to professionals, if necessary, this operation can be carried out independently. To do this, you will need to assemble or rent special tool, and also use the instruction manual, which describes in detail all necessary actions. During work, care should be taken not to damage the equipment. To help the home craftsman, there are many training videos available on the Internet dedicated to this operation, and the process itself is approximately the same for equipment from different brands.

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