Exotic predator - Nepenthes care at home. Nepenthes - an exotic predator plant

If you like rare and unusual indoor flowers, then you may be interested in Nepenthes. More often it is called a predator flower, a pitcher, a flycatcher. More exotic and original indoor plant, and also an insectivore, you are unlikely to find. Sometimes it seems that it is not a flower at all, but some kind of predatory Living being, which, in addition to the usual food for flowers, eats insects, which it digests as food in its trap jugs. In this article we will introduce you to the rules for caring for Nepenthes at home.

Nepenthes is a plant of the genus belonging to the monotypic family Nepenthaceae. It includes more than 100 species of predator plants and their natural hybrids. The name comes from the word "nepenfa", which in ancient greek mythology meant "herb of oblivion." People call Nepenthes more simply - Pitcher or Flycatcher.

Nepenthes in wildlife(photo by Stewart McPherson)

In the wild, the pitcher plant grows in the forests of tropical Asia and on the islands of the Pacific basin. The flower is most often found on the island of Kalimantan, the Seychelles and Madagascar, New Caledonia and Northern Australia. Moreover, some species of these predatory plants lurk on the green plains, others settled high in the mountains, and others like peat bogs and wetlands. Many species of Nepenthes live in trees. With their long grassy stems, they climb branches and trunks to unprecedented heights in search of sunlight for your inflorescences. It happens that plants lose their connection with the earth, not receiving any nutrients from their neighbors, that is, they are essentially epiphytes. This is where they are simply forced to eat insects in order to survive.

The plant has strong symbiotic relationships with some representatives of the animal world. For example, mountain tupai use Nepenthes with large trap jugs as dry toilets. They feast on the nectar of the plant and leave their droppings in the jugs, which the plant then digests and absorbs as nitrogen fertilizer. Bats often climb into large jugs to sleep, where they are not bothered by the heat and insects. Its excrement containing necessary for the plant nitrogen, they also leave it trapped.

Description and appearance

This perennial found most often in the form of herbaceous semi-shrub vines or as shrubby epiphytes. Thin, herbaceous stems become woody over time. If the plant settles next to tall trees, then its shoots can reach tens of meters in height. At home, the height of Nepenthes does not exceed one and a half meters, most often it is 60 - 90 cm. The leaves of the Pitcher plant are alternate, large, with a convex midrib and an elongated apex. They are elongated, bright green or yellow-green. The leaves reach 30 cm in length. In addition to ordinary leaves, others develop on the flower, which play the role of digestive organs in Nepenthes. In these leaves, the lower part of the petiole, connecting to the stem, is wide and flat. The tip of the leaf turns into a thin tendril that wraps around the branch.

At the end of the tendril a jug appears, looking like an extraordinary flower. This is an insect trap. It ranges from 3 to 30 cm in length, but there are also Nepenthes with huge jugs - up to half a meter in length. The traps have lids to protect the inside of the jug from rainwater and any debris.

There are also such specimens of Nepenthes

Depending on the type of plant, the jugs have different colors, but they are always bright and attractive: matte white, red, orange, yellow, light green, with stripes and spots. The upper edge of the jug is curved inward and covered with pink or purple grooves. It looks like a thick brush due to the small, stiff bristles located along it. Sweet nectar is produced there. The inner walls of the trap are smooth. The jug is 1/3 filled with a special viscous digestive liquid that contains the enzyme nepenthesin. This liquid resembles human gastric juice. Attracted by the aroma of Nepenthes nectar, insects fly or crawl under the lid of the trap, slide into the digestive fluid and drown in it. After 5 - 8 hours, nothing remains of them - only a chitinous shell. Occasionally, large jugs even get small birds, frogs and rodents. Thus, the plant receives all the micro- and macroelements it needs for its life.

Of course, the carnivorous plant Nepenthes does not rely only on this method of nutrition. Its roots absorb moisture from the soil. Its green leaves receive nutrition through the process of photosynthesis. Therefore, in case of shortage of food of organic origin, the pitcher plant feeds in the classic way like an ordinary plant.

Mukholov grows like a bud. As it grows, it swells from the inside and stretches out. When it reaches a certain age, it becomes like a narrow, thin-walled jug or glass, and a lid with a lever opens in its upper part. The neck of the jug, the peristome, can be smooth or corrugated, similar to a wide collar or a jagged comb. Some Nepenthes species have distinctive feature- By outside The pitcher has serrated wings from the base to the upper edge, which serve as support and as guides for crawling insects, luring them into a trap.

Each pitcher stays on the plant for quite a long time, from 2 to 4 months, and the flowering of the entire plant can last up to 8 months. Before the onset of winter, the pitchers dry out and fall off. The plant seems to be resting - it eats and drinks less and stops growing. With the arrival of spring, it comes to life again, and the jugs grow back.

Nepenthes inflorescences

In addition to the original pitchers, which many mistake for flowers, Nepenthes periodically forms true racemose or paniculate apical inflorescences. Small petalless flowers with three to four imbricated sepals, collected in reddish-brown erect inflorescences, bloom in the axils of the leaves. They bloom for quite a long time - sometimes up to six months. They cannot be called spectacular, but their unusualness attracts. After flowering, fruits are formed - leathery boxes with green partitions inside. In each chamber, rows of small cylindrical seeds ripen.

It should be remembered that Nepenthes is a dioecious plant. On some plants, only male flowers bloom, while on others, only female flowers. In the wild, pollination occurs by billions of insects; seeds are not a problem. At home, flowering occurs quite rarely. And in your collection, both Nepenthes specimens should bloom at the same time - both male and female. In addition to everything, you also need insects - pollinators, which you certainly will not tolerate in your home. So getting a ripe Nepenthes fruit at home, and even your own seeds, is a big problem.

Despite the carnivorous nature of Nepenthes, it is not poisonous!

Lifespan

In gardeners' reference books you can read that at home, the Pitcher plant will not live for more than a year and a half. But many flower growers claim that when proper care, he can live much longer. There were specimens that lived for more than three years.

Using an individual approach to growing this tropical predator, investing your attention and care into this difficult task, perhaps you will be able to tame it, and your Nepenthes will be the first indoor insectivorous flower- long-lived.

Types and varieties

Winged (Alata)

Nepenthes Winged or Alata (Nepenthes alata) originally from the Philippines. There it grows in length from one to four meters. The leaves are dark green, lanceolate. Traps in the shape of narrow jugs have a bright light green color with red specks. This species is most often grown by exotic lovers in their apartments. He does not have a very capricious character, he tolerates the humidity of home premises. It is grown as a shrubby vine no more than 90 cm in height. Pretty jugs large sizes and spectacular coloring, but the flowers are very small and inconspicuous.

Kuvshinchikovy

Nepenthes Pitcher loves marshy climates. Its pitchers are grouped into nests. Not demanding on maintenance, suitable for home growing.

Madagascar

Nepenthes madagascariensis grows on the island of Madagascar. A rather branched evergreen bush up to a meter in height. The leaves are elongated and bright green. Bright crimson pitchers of impressive size hang on thin flagella under a lush crown - up to 25 cm long. Loves moisture and high temperature. This plant is usually grown in greenhouses.

Rafflesiana

Nepenthes rafflesiana has long vines with large elongated leaves on short petioles. The leaves reach 50 cm in length and up to 10 cm in width. The jugs are usually Not big size, from 10 to 20 cm in length and up to 10 cm in width. On the outside they are light green in color with red spots and stripes, and on the inside they are bluish in color.

Hairy (Villosa)

Nepenthes villosa has jugs measuring 20 cm in length, greenish-red in color with a raised, bright green rim.

Truncata

Nepenthes truncata common in the Philippines. Under the large leathery leaves with blunt ends there are huge jugs, up to 50 cm in length. They are colored brown-green.

The largest species of Nepenthes is Raja

Nepenthes Rajah (rajah)- the largest species of plant, a real mountain giant. It grows in mountain glades in northern Borneo at an altitude of over two km. The shoots of the creeping vine reach a length of 6 meters. Large petiolate leaves with long tendrils are located on the stems at equal distances. Purple or burgundy jugs are more than 50 cm in length and hold more than one liter of digestive fluid, which is quite enough to digest not only insects, but also larger “game”: frogs, lizards, rats. Grows only in the wild.

Attenborough

Nepenthes Attenborough- a spreading shrub up to one and a half meters high is distinguished by its particular bloodthirstiness and large capacity of jugs - up to one and a half to two liters. The length of the trap is 25 cm and the width is 12 cm. Capable of digesting large “game”: rat, lizard. The color of the jug is green with brown specks.

Double spur (bicalcarata)

Nepenthes bicalcarata It is found in highlands and swampy areas. The leaves are large, reaching 60 cm in length, but the jugs are completely small size– up to 10 cm.

Pervilla (pervillei)

Nepenthes pervillei mainly found in the Seychelles. It has jugs of the widest diameter, which are painted in a rich red color.

Hookeriana

Loves high humidity and temperature. Its jugs have the color of unripe eggplant. Grown in terrariums.

Bloody Mary

Nepenthes Bloody Mary has bright, burgundy-colored, large jugs. Loves sunlight very much. Less predatory than its brothers - flycatchers. For him, insects are not an obligatory delicacy; he can be content with the classic way of eating. If you provide this type of Nepenthes with sufficient year-round lighting, it can be grown at home.

Caring for Nepenthes at home

IN indoor floriculture Flycatcher is not yet common, since almost all of its species are very demanding to maintain and are too large even for small greenhouses. But it is still popular among exotic lovers: the presence of an original insectivorous plant in the home collection attracts many. At home, mainly dwarf hybrids of Pitcher plant are grown, obtained from shrubby epiphytes with small pitchers. What is proper care for Nepenthes at home? Let's figure it out in order.

Flower locations

If you simply place a pot of Nepenthes on the windowsill, then no matter how hard you try, it will not turn out to be a jug. Most likely, you will have an exotic bush growing vigorously with abundant foliage. In order for hanging jugs - traps - to appear on the plant, you need to create for it special conditions. Windows facing southwest or southeast are best suited. On the north side, the flower will not grow well without additional powerful lighting, but on the south side it will have to be shaded from direct sunlight. We do not recommend turning the pot towards the light in different directions. Knowledgeable flower growers even mark the side of the flowerpot facing the light with a mark and make sure that the pot is not turned to the sun on the other side. Otherwise, the Pitcher will stop creating new pitchers and stop growing. If you still had to move the pot, then at least two months will pass until Nepenthes gets used to the new location and begins to develop again.

The flower does not tolerate drafts, but loves fresh air - keep this in mind when ventilating the room. Nepenthes shoots that grow over time should be tied to supports. We recommend installing them immediately when replanting a one-year-old plant for the first time.

Humidity

Some types of Nepenthes grow and develop normally at normal humidity home premises 50 - 60%. When purchasing your pet, ask about its preferences. But larger number Nepenthes needs very high air humidity, about 80% or more. Then it is necessary to use all available methods of increasing the humidity in the room with the flower. Humidifiers can be installed. You can place the pot in an open aquarium. You can place the pot in a tray with wet expanded clay at the bottom. You can place wide containers of water around the flower to evaporate moisture. If you have a bathroom with a window, then the Jug Jar can be placed on a bright window sill in the bathroom. There you can wet ceramic tiles on the walls and floor, moisture evaporation will noticeably increase the humidity surrounding the flower.

Spraying

It is necessary to spray the plant and the air around it daily from a small spray bottle with distilled water at room temperature. Do not be afraid that droplets of water will fall into the jugs - they will not cause any harm to the plant. In their natural habitat, tropical raindrops do not dilute the liquid inside the jugs and do not impair its digestive value. This is, firstly. Secondly, insects are not the only source of nutrition for indoor Nepenthes. Thirdly, some gardeners even recommend adding a little distilled water to the jugs so that they are 2/3 full of volume. This will protect the jugs from becoming lethargic and drying out.

Much easier to maintain comfortable conditions long-term residence of this flower in special florariums and terrariums. If you have the opportunity to purchase them, purchase them.

Lighting

Nepenthes loves saturated diffused light for 14 - 16 hours a day. To ensure such a long daylight hours, especially in autumn and winter, powerful phyto lamps will be required. If the pot is on a windowsill, then let it be a southwest or southeast window with mandatory lighting from autumn to spring. If the flower does not have enough lighting, it may stop forming jugs, and existing ones may dry out. If this happens in winter, it’s okay. With the arrival of spring, the situation usually returns to normal.

Temperature

Nepenthes does not tolerate low temperatures. The optimal temperature for it is between 22 and 28 degrees. in high light and humidity conditions. It's summer. In autumn and winter, the temperature can be reduced somewhat, but not lower than 18 - 20 degrees. For some time, the flower can survive at low temperatures, up to 16 degrees, but it will not survive a long drop - it will get sick and die. Too high, up to 35 grams, will also negatively affect the health of the flower. temperature.

It is important to familiarize yourself with species features your copy upon purchase. If his parents grew up in lowlands and swampy areas, then your pet will feel comfortable in the summer at a temperature no higher than 26 degrees, and in the winter - 18-20 degrees. If your flower comes from rocky places, then in summer it will prefer a temperature no higher than 20 degrees, and in winter - about 15 degrees.

Watering

For watering, use rain or water that has stood for 24 hours. tap water room temperature or slightly higher. In the summer, water more often, once every two days, preferably in a tray. After some time, the excess water is drained from the pan - the water should not stagnate there. Nepenthes does not tolerate prolonged waterlogging. But it is not advisable to allow the soil to dry out. We recommend immersing the Nepenthes pot in a container with warm, settled water every two to three weeks until the soil is completely saturated (until air bubbles stop coming out). After this, let the water drain and put the plant in its original place. Water regularly and abundantly in the summer and moderately, once a week, in the autumn-winter period.

The soil

A mixture of peat, sand, pine bark, charcoal and sphagnum moss. You cannot plant a flower in ordinary garden soil, black soil or clay. The substrate should be moderately fertile, loose, light and not sour. This plant is an epiphyte; it receives nutrition not so much from the soil as from the air through the leaves and from organic matter, which are obtained by digesting insects (flies, spiders, mosquitoes).

Ready-made soil can be purchased at the store - a soil mixture for orchids or epiphytes, plus sphagnum moss, is suitable.

Pot

Buy plastic pots, wide and not very deep, like bowls. Place on the bottom good layer expanded clay or other drainage material. After planting the plant, cover the surface of the soil with a layer of damp sphagnum moss or coconut fiber.

Nepenthes is designed in such a way that its jugs should hang vertically down, with their necks up. For this reason, the flower is often planted in hanging planters, or arrange special supports and fastenings to create a hill for it.

Feeding

It is advisable to add one live medium-sized insect per month to at least a third of the jugs as natural feeding. The flower will gladly eat a fly, spider, ant, mosquito, grasshopper, maggot. For the meal to be successful, the jug must be at least 1/3 filled with digestive juice produced by the plant. You should not add other organic food, such as pieces of meat or fish, as there is a high probability that the jugs will rot from overfeeding with nitrogen.

From October to April, Nepenthes should not be fed; let it wait until spring.

If you have a problem with insects in your house, feed your predator with regular complex fertilizers for orchids or epiphytes every three weeks according to the instructions on the package, but in a dose reduced by three times. You should not pour fertilizer at the root. It is better to spray the plant with a spray bottle on the leaves. In principle, any complex fertilizers for indoor flowers that contain iron, copper, boron and chelatins are suitable.

Transplanting Nepenthes

A flower is replanted only when absolutely necessary - the old pot has become too small for the roots, or mold has appeared on the surface of the substrate, or Nepenthes has stopped developing and the reason is most likely rotting of the root system.

In any case, remove the plant from the old pot and inspect the roots. If they are damaged by rot, you will have to remove the affected ones and treat the healthy ones with fungicides. Plant the flower in the new potting mix. Water the transplanted plant with a solution of Topaz or Fundazol. After a couple of weeks, spray the treated plant with Zircon solution and water the soil in the pot with it.

If everything was in order with the roots, replant the plant with a lump of earth into new soil in a pot slightly wider and 10–15 cm deeper than the previous one. Don't forget about drainage at the bottom of the pot and a layer of sphagnum moss on the surface of the fresh substrate. After transplantation, Nepenthes should be under your close attention. Do not feed or feed it insects for a month. Carefully follow all watering, lighting and temperature standards. Spray it a couple of times with biogrowth stimulants. Now the flower can live in the new pot for another couple or three years.

Important! Digestive fluid with enzymes is formed in the jug only when it is formed. If for some reason this liquid spills out, then you will not be able to restore it, and there is no point in feeding an empty jug. To slightly prolong its life, you can pour a little distilled water into it. But still, this jug will dry out before the others.

If you bought Nepenthes in a store, do not rush to immediately transplant it into a new beautiful pot. He'll have a great time for a long time in a transport pot until it needs a new pot due to the strong growth of the root system, since the flower perceives any intervention as aggression.

Nepenthes pruning

We recommend periodically cutting and pinching Nepenthes shoots. Then the flower will not stretch out much and will have an attractive compact appearance. In addition, pruning rejuvenates the bushes and stimulates them to form new buds and jugs. It is better to prune in the spring before the active growing season of the flower begins. The first pinching on the shoot is done after the sixth leaf has grown.

Winter dormancy period

In the autumn-winter period, indoor air humidity and temperature usually decrease environment. At this time, it is convenient to organize a period of forced rest for Nepenthes. It is watered less and less often, it is no longer fed with fertilizers and insects, since it will spend a lot of energy digesting food. Do not be upset if the plant begins to lose its leaves and wonderful jugs - this is a natural process. With the onset of spring, you yourself will cut off almost all the leaves to the base, resume normal watering of the plant, raise the temperature in the room to 22 - 26 degrees, feed your pet, and the flower will again begin to grow leaves and form its own jugs.

Reproduction of Nepenthes

Nepenthes reproduce in different ways. Let's look at them in order.

Propagation by seeds

Nepenthes are very rarely propagated at home using seeds. Let's explain the reason. Seeds suitable for planting are freshly collected - two to three weeks old. You are unlikely to be able to buy these even in a specialized store - they will probably slip you any others. And to get your own seeds, you need to have two copies of Nepenthes at home - male and female, because Nepenthes is a dioecious plant. At home, flowering occurs quite rarely, in addition, flowering ovaries must be pollinated by insects - flies and midges - in order for the fruit to form.

Let's say that you collected your seeds or you managed to get them somewhere, then you will probably be able to grow Nepenthes from seeds. Planting should be done immediately in small containers with a mixture of sphagnum moss and sand under a film. Cultivation takes place in a warm place at a temperature of 22 - 26 degrees. Maintain high (up to 100%) humidity and illumination of the substrate. Shoots appear after two months.

Propagation by apical cuttings

This method is more effective. Nepenthes cuttings are cut from January to April. Use the upper part of shoots 15–20 cm long with three to four leaves. The cut is made obliquely slightly below the last leaf so that a small stem remains. The small top leaf is left, the bottom leaf is cut off completely, and the rest - in half. First, place the cutting for half an hour in a solution of a root formation stimulator, and then sprinkle the cut with crushed activated carbon. Plant the prepared cuttings in moist, tightly compacted sphagnum moss and strengthen it. The rooting process takes a long time and requires the use of root formation stimulants, a heated mini-greenhouse with artificial lighting. Protect from direct sun. The rooting temperature should be between 26 – 30 degrees. Humidity is high. Sphagnum moss must be sprayed periodically warm water from a spray bottle. After two weeks, we recommend spraying the cuttings with a growth stimulator (Zircon and others), diluting 2 - 3 drops of the drug in a glass of distilled water. At this time, it will be possible to understand that the process is going well by looking at the cutting - it should not lose its bright color.

The roots should appear in one and a half to two and a half months. During rooting, it is better not to touch the pot or turn it in different sides. Then signs of jugs may appear on the first leaves. After a couple of months, the strengthened cuttings can be transplanted to permanent place. It is advisable not to rush with the next transplant; give the young plant a year or two to get stronger.

Reproduction by air layering

Liana-like varieties of Nepenthes propagate air layering. To do this, remove part of the bark on a flexible shoot. In this place the vine is pressed to the moist substrate and strengthened. In one and a half to two months, roots will appear in this place. The cuttings can be separated from the mother plant and planted in a pot to grow independently.

Reproduction by root layering

This propagation method is used during transplantation of an adult plant. It should be remembered that the roots of Nepenthes are very fragile, and the operation of dividing the root system into parts must be carried out very carefully. Usually the plant is placed in a large container with warm water, in which the roots are carefully cleaned of the old substrate. Using a clean tool, separate a part of the plant along with the roots. The cut areas are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon. Each part of Nepenthes is planted in its own pot according to all the rules, watered and placed in a prepared place.

Nepenthes diseases

Anyone who decides to grow Nepenthes at home needs to become familiar with the problems that may arise. Although, due to the difficulties in growing this flower and its low prevalence, it is difficult to name any diseases characteristic of this plant. Only when gross violations Due to the conditions of his detention, Mukholov can get sick and quickly die.

• In case of excessive soil moisture and lack of fresh air indoors, brown spots appear on the leaves of Nepenthes. This is fungus or mold. For treatment, use broad-spectrum furgicides.
• Insufficient lighting leads to elongation of shoots, leaf diseases and the formation of a small number or absence of traps - jugs. Find a brighter place for the pot or arrange artificial lighting.
• Dry tips of the leaves indicate that the ambient humidity in the room is too low. Increase the humidity in the room by any means, otherwise the leaves will fly off and the plant will dry out.
• If there is too much light, brown spots may appear on the plant. Shade the flower at midday from the sun's rays.
• Too high substrate humidity leads to rotting of the plant's root system. Monitor the frequency of watering, especially in the autumn-winter period. Drain excess moisture from the pan.
• Exposure of the flower to direct sunlight causes the leaves to sunburn– the leaves turn red.
• Yellow leaves of Nepenthes indicate a lack of nutrition. Feed your pet. If there are no insects, spray the leaves with a complex fertilizer for indoor flowers.
• Excess nitrogen fertilizers weakens the flower and causes rotting of its individual parts. Don't overfeed your predator. Do not throw food that is not intended for him, such as meat and fish, into the jugs.
• If the substrate consists of pure peat and moss, then chlorosis is possible. Change the substrate to a suitable one.

Pests

Since Nepenthes feeds on insects, they usually do not threaten it as pests. If you do notice aphids or mealybugs on your pet, you will have to fight them manually, using a swab dipped in a solution laundry soap(20 grams per 1 liter of water) – since chemicals It is better not to use it for the Pitcher plant.

Video: How to care for Nepenthes at home

Undoubtedly, a healthy, bright green Nepenthes bush, strewn with many amazing purple or raspberry pitchers, will greatly decorate your home and amuse your guests while they eat. Place such a flower in your apartment. Perhaps you will be able to tame its difficult character, and it will delight you with its exotic appearance and aroma for a long time.

Many admirers of exotic plants and plants know about the existence of the amazing Nepenthes flower. These are semi-shrub or shrubby vines. It is difficult to find a more original exotic plant that absorbs not the usual food of flora, but insects and even small rodents and birds.

The Nepenthes flower (pitcher) is a predator plant. It eats mainly insects. In the wild, Nepenthes is found mainly in acidic soil on peat bogs, that is, in places where few nutrients are present. But the plant survives in this environment. This became possible thanks to the jug leaf. It has a special element, intended for fishing:

• Zhukov;
• mosquitoes;
• midges and other insects.

The sloping leaves of the plant are quite large in size and produce a special nectar that attracts small creatures. When insects land on a leaf, they cannot stay on the waxy surface and fall to the very bottom of the jug. They begin to actively rush about, provoking the activity of special digestive glands inside the jug. They synthesize decomposing elements that can completely digest an insect in a couple of days.

The predator plant Nepenthes was first mentioned in 1658. It was then that the governor from France, Etienne de Flacourt, traveled to Madagascar. He was very amazed by the very strange appearance of this flower. The following description of Nepenthes was already mentioned in 1680. It was compiled by an adventurer and avid traveler from Germany named Jacob Brain. However, they all did not yet understand that the flower feeds on insects.

Carl Linnaeus first began to closely study Nepenthes. It was he who named the plant Nepenthes in honor of the ancient herb of oblivion called nepenthes, which is mentioned in Homer’s Odyssey. Tradition says that the queen of Sparta received the nepenthes plant from the Egyptian queen. She gave it to Telemachus (son of Odysseus) so that all his sorrows and misfortunes would disappear. There is some truth in this legend, because nepenthes was even used as an alternative to opium.

In the 19th century, the flower became very popular thanks to the efforts of famous botanists and breeders. Today there are about 100 varieties and even more hybrid varieties Nepenthes. Many can even be purchased at regular stores colors.

Description and habitat

The Nepentaceae family is carnivorous plants. The genus Nepenthes includes shrubs and subshrubs with simple short-petioled, or sessile, alternate leaves and clinging branches.

Nepenthes have two types of sheets:

• simple;
• pitcher-shaped

The latter first have a narrow, elongated petiole. In the center it is made wide and flat, forming a leaf. It is this part that is responsible for photosynthesis. Then the petiole narrows and forms a tendril - a thin thread that can wrap around the entire stem of the flower. The petiole ends in a special leaf, which is designed for catching prey. The jug is protected from climatic precipitation by a special “lid” formed inside the leaf cavity.

Remarkable that Nepenthes is one of the largest carnivorous plants on the planet. Water lilies of this color can collect up to 2 liters of caustic moisture produced by the glands. In addition, one jug can hold up to 300 insects.

The main reason that Nepenthes began to lead a predatory lifestyle is considered to be a problem associated with a deficiency of organic nutrition. After the Nepenthes mastered the trees, they lost the opportunity to obtain food from the soil. Their root system tried to grab moisture from the air. And the plant began to receive nutrition only with the help of leaves.

Nepenthes flowers have no petals. Compared to contrasting water lilies, they noticeably lag behind in attractiveness. This is due to the fact that the jugs are designed specifically to lure prey inside.

There are about a hundred varieties of Nepenthes that appeared here straight from the Australian and Asian tropics. These flowers are especially common in the Philippines, India, Indonesia and the islands of Sumatra and Borneo.

Application and cultivation

These flowers were used for a variety of purposes. For example, the liquid in their jugs is highly valued by hunters as it can be drunk. The shoots of the plant are often used in construction, and tropical aborigines cooked rice in its jars.

In the field of traditional medicine, juice is obtained from Nepenthes, which helps fight inflammation in the bladder, cough, eye diseases and inflammation of the skin. Tinctures and decoctions from the stems and roots of the flower are used for malaria and dysentery.

Some plant varieties can be grown right at home, which allows you to decorate even a nondescript room with them. For decorative purposes, bright red Nepenthes alata is mainly bred. The plant of this species is climbing and quite tall. The length of the jugs can reach 15 cm. Caring for nepenthes at home requires special knowledge and special soil.

It is better to place the carnivorous Nepenthes plant in a bright place where there are no drafts and the heat is constantly maintained. It needs to be planted in a large florarium.

Lighting for a predator plant should be diffused. It also needs to be protected from direct rays of the sun, as they can burn the leaves and jugs, the walls of which are very sensitive and thin.

Something to remember, What hybrid species are more unpretentious. They tolerate low humidity levels and lack of natural light well. They are the ones that are best preferred by beginning flower growers.

The appearance of pests and diseases in almost all cases is a consequence of untimely or improper care per plant. Nepenthes, unfortunately, does not get sick very rarely. If the flower is not provided with optimal conditions, then in a too warm or humid environment with a lack of lighting, it becomes infected with gray rot. A similar problem can be encountered due to stagnation of water in the cup holder. The affected parts of the plant in this situation must be removed immediately.

Wilting of a flower is the first symptom of lack of moisture and water.. Accordingly, the plant needs to be constantly watered, sprayed and cared for. Unusual blotches and spots on the leaves may appear due to too bright light. It is advisable to select light, but not harsh lighting, then the flower will quickly recover.

The Nepenthes plant is naturally distributed in the tropical regions of the Old World - about. Madagascar, Sri Lanka, India, Indonesia, Australia. However, today Nepenthes are successfully grown at home, providing them with proper care. Most Nepenthes are terrestrial plants. In nature, Nepenthes usually grow on nutrient-poor soils, so at home they are also grown on nutrient-poor substrates, often next to epiphytic plants.

What kind of plant is NEPENTHES?

Nepenthes are insectivorous plants, that is, flycatchers. In order to provide themselves with sufficient nutrition for growth, Nepenthes in nature have adapted to diversify their meager diet, obtained by roots from poor swamp soils, on which, as we said above, Nepenthes usually grow, by catching insects. For this purpose, the plant has developed special devices– catching jugs of various colors and shades.

Nepenthes are vines, individual species the stem length even reaches 20 meters, but these species are not grown at home. Nepenthes stems are round or ribbed. The leaf petioles are leathery, lanceolate or xiphoid, ending in a catching pitcher at the end. This structure of the leaf apparatus is characteristic of all species of the genus Nepenthes.

NEPENTHES flycatcher.

The hunting pitchers of Nepenthes are interesting. They are formed at the ends of the expanded petioles of leaves and have the shape of a cylinder. They are shaped like cones or bottles. The middle part of the pitcher may be widened or swollen. The open upper part of the jug is trimmed with a protruding fold or collar, and covered on top with a lid. The lid of the jug is actually a leaf of a plant. The Nepenthes lid covers the mouth of the jug from the rain, but does not prevent unlucky insects from flying in or crawling in. Along the front of the pitcher are two scars that are covered with hairs in some species and smooth in others.

Many species have two small spines where the cap attaches to the jug. The color of Nepenthes pitchers can be very diverse - from green and yellow to red or purple. The jugs are often speckled and stained different colors and shades. Moreover, the shape and color of the jugs is specific to each type of Nepenthes.

The inner surface of the Nepenthes pitcher is smooth and slippery. An insect that gets there cannot get out on its own and falls to the bottom, where a special liquid accumulates, in which the poor insect is digested, providing the Nepenthes flytrap with additional nutrition.

Preparing the soil for nepenthes

No amount of care will help you grow a good plant if you choose the wrong soil for nepenthes.

To grow nepenthes you must use moisture-intensive substrate. The soil for nepenthes should include:

• sphagnum moss
• tree bark (preferably old pine in pieces up to 1 cm) or fern roots and high-moor peat.

For example, the following mixture recipes are considered successful:

• moss + bark + high peat (1:1:1).
• moss + bark in ratios 1:1 or 2:1;

The main requirement for a substrate for nepenthes is looseness and good air permeability. It must be said that in nature, nepenthes sometimes grow in sand or clay, but at home you most likely will not be able to grow nepenthes in sandy soil.

Suitable containers

To grow Nepenthes, you can use a variety of dishes:

• clay pots,
• baskets,
• cylindrical pieces of bark, etc.

The main rule for growing nepenthes is to ensure excellent drainage. Remember: drainage should occupy at least a quarter of the height of the pot. Use as drainage:

• broken shards,
• expanded clay,
• clean bark (2-3 cm fraction).

When planting nepenthes, a layer of drainage is placed on the bottom of the dish, then a layer of fresh substrate. Place the plant with straightened roots on the substrate and cover them with a layer of substrate, leaving approximately 2 cm to the edge of the pot. The best time for planting and transplanting nepenthes is spring.

Caring for Nepenthes - conditions and watering

WATERING: Nepenthes should be watered abundantly. The substrate should never dry out. You can place a pot of nepenthes in a pan of water. Nepenthes tolerate dry air very poorly (especially lowland nepenthes). The optimal relative humidity for them is between 60-80%. When grown at home, nepenthes should be exposed to sunlight for at least part of the day. In this case, the plants develop well and their pitchers are normally colored. When grown under artificial lighting, the lighting duration should be at least 14 hours.

ROOM TEMPERATURE. Optimal temperature air for growing nepenthes at home - 22-27°C. However, mountain species easily tolerate temperature fluctuations from 15 to 30°C. Lowland species require constant temperature- 22-27 degrees and allow daily changes of only 2-3 °C.

There is practically no rest period in Nepenthes - in winter there is a slight decrease in growth rate associated with a reduction in daylight hours and low temperatures air near the window.

Fertilizers are practically not used when growing nepenthes. You can place plants in conditions that make it easier to attract insects.

Reproduction of Nepenthes.

GROWING FROM SEEDS. Nepenthes are dioecious plants. Both male and female individuals are required to produce seeds. Nepenthes seeds are sown in bowls on the surface of sifted high-moor peat. Nepenthes crops are kept in conditions of very high humidity - close to 100% in very warm conditions. Nepenthes seeds germinate within 6 weeks. Already in the phase of 2-3 leaves, plant seedlings can be planted in a separate container.

Due to the difficulty of growing from seeds, Nepenthes is usually propagated vegetatively - that is, by cuttings or division. It is easiest to use shoots that have roots. They are separated from the plant and planted in a new container, as described above.

Nepenthes can also be propagated by cuttings. To do this, cut segments with 1, 2, 3 or more leaves from the stem with a sharp knife. The leaves are shortened slightly, leaving about a third, and sometimes they are cut off completely, leaving only the petioles. The lower cut of the cutting must be treated with a preparation that stimulates root formation. Nepenthes cuttings are planted in a pot with sphagnum or high peat and placed in plastic bag like in a greenhouse. The plant is kept at a temperature:

• 21-29°C for lowland species
• 10-20 C for mountains.

You can place nepenthes cuttings in a vessel with water, which also leads to the formation of roots.

Sometimes used for propagation of nepenthes aerial cuttings. An incision is made on the stem with a sharp knife to one third to half the thickness of the stem or the bark is cut in a circle. The resulting wounds are best treated with root formation stimulants and wrapped with moss and plastic film. They are kept in this form until roots form. After root formation baby plant separated and planted in a permanent place.

Nepenthes are quite difficult plants to grow and care for, so attempts to grow them at home are not always successful. However, in Lately appeared a large number of hybrid nepenthes, which are less demanding on growing conditions. Many of them are so hardy that they grow normally even at home without daily care!

IN flora there are real wonders, many exotic lovers want to learn how to grow these original plants at home. Very interesting nepenthes plant, also has the popular name “pitcher”, because pitchers hang from the ends of its leaves, which are a continuation of the leaves of the plant.

Nepenthes is an insectivorous plant., a digestive enzyme is formed in its jugs, insects attracted by the aroma and falling into the jug are digested and provide the plant with the missing nutrients. The fact is that in nature Nepenthes grow on very poor soils, where there is not enough minerals, and having adapted to feed on insects, these plants receive the macro and microelements necessary for development.

Nepenthes grows as a small vine with a thin stem that climbs up tree trunks. Each leaf of the plant ends with a thin stalk on which a pitcher is formed. A jug is a trap for insects; depending on the type of plant, they can be large, up to 20 cm or more in length, and medium, up to 10 cm in length. As they grow, the appearance of the jugs changes, some have a waist, a bend, others have a straight barrel-shaped shape, the color can also vary from light green to dark purple. Inside the jug there are smooth walls and liquid, the insect, once inside, cannot get out, drowns, and is then digested, giving the plant the necessary substances for nutrition.

Nepenthes blooms in spring or summer. The flowering of this plant is inconspicuous; its main decoration is the jugs hanging from the leaves. Nepenthes is grown mainly in hanging pots so that the jugs hang down freely.

IN room conditions are mainly grown unpretentious appearance: Nepenthes bright red (Nepenthescoccinea), its jugs are red in color. You can purchase more difficult to care for, but no less original views: nepenthes maxima (N.maxima) and nepenthes graceful (N.gracillima).

Flower shops often sell these original plants, but after purchasing, many of them die within a couple of months. In order to grow insectivorous plants as indoors, it is necessary to create conditions close to natural for them and carefully care for them. Nepenthes is native to tropical islands and areas of Asia and Australia. Like all tropical plants, Nepenthes is capricious and demanding to care for.

Lighting for the plant it should be bright and diffused, without midday sunlight. The duration of daylight should be at least 12 hours a day, so in autumn and winter the plant needs artificial supplementary lighting. Nepenthes does not like moving and turning relative to the light source.

Content temperature plants should be within +22…+27 0 C all year round, but not lower than +18 0 C.

Watering and air humidity. It is very important to support high humidity air around the plant at 60-80%. To do this, spray the plant frequently and place a bowl of water or wet pebbles nearby. At low humidity, the pitchers may dry out and new ones will not form.

Water the plant it is necessary sparingly after the top layer of the substrate has dried. For watering, use only soft, settled water; collected clean rainwater is best.

Feeding. In nature, Nepenthes receives extra food When digesting insects, in room conditions the enzymes necessary for processing insects are poorly formed in the jugs, so the plant must be additionally fed with organic and mineral fertilizers. You can use universal fertilizer for orchids and alternate it with organic fertilizer - a slightly diluted infusion of mullein. Nepenthes poorly absorbs nutrients root system, so all fertilizers should be in very low concentration. Apply fertilizing no more than twice a month. In summer, you can put caught flies and bloodworms into jugs, but not more than once a month.

Transfer. After purchasing the plant, you do not need to replant it immediately; let it acclimatize for a couple of months in the new conditions. Nepenthes can be replanted as needed, when the roots fill the entire pot. The plant has a tap root and does not respond well to any damage to the root system, so when replanting, the earthen ball should not be destroyed, but simply transfer it to a pot with a larger capacity and add more soil.

Earth mixture should be breathable, light, with an acidity of 4.5 - 5.5. Can be used purchased soil for planting orchids or make your own from peat, sphagnum moss, crushed bark, charcoal and perlite or sand.

Nepenthes is propagated by rooting apical cuttings.

Flycatcher, pitcher plant, predator flower, and scientifically Nepenthes is a very original and interesting flower. What makes him interesting is what he eats. small insects. The leaves of the flycatcher have transformed into so-called water lilies, in which nectar accumulates, attracting insects. But, like any rare exotic plant, the flytrap is difficult to find on sale, especially in a small city. If you are lucky enough to acquire this amazing flower, then you should know how to properly care for Nepenthes. With proper care, the flycatcher will bring you joy and surprise guests for many years.

Choosing a location and lighting

Nepenthes loves the sun. However, you should avoid direct Sun rays fell on the leaves. Gauze or tulle will help create diffused light. Therefore, if you want a plant to have a lot of water lilies, then you need to take care of lighting. It is better to place the flower on the southeast side. It is where the sun shines that many water lilies are formed. Nepenthes blooms for quite a long time - about six months. In winter, water lilies disappear. By spring they gain color again.

Air humidity

For good growth of the flytrap, the air must be sufficiently humid (70-90%). If you do not have a special greenhouse, then you can find another way out:

• Frequent spraying. It is better to let the water settle.
• Humidifiers. If you have a humidifier, it will be easier to achieve the required humidity.
• Second pallet. If the flower is not suspended, then an additional pallet is one of the most simple solutions. You should take a second tray and fill it with water, then place the nepenthes in it. This will create additional moisture, which the plant needs so much.
• Place a container of water near the flytrap. A great and easy way to humidify the air.

Watering

The flycatcher is moisture-loving, but the soil should not be over-moistened. To water, let the water sit for 24 hours; the temperature should be at room temperature. In summer it is necessary to water more abundantly - every 2 days; in autumn-winter, reduce to 1 time. If the room temperature drops to 16°C, then you need to water very carefully. At favorable conditions, liquid forms in the water lilies. If this does not happen, you should drop distilled water into each jug, filling them 2/3 full.

Top dressing

In order for Nepenthes to grow well at home, it must be fertilized in the summer. The process is carried out 2 times a month with orchid fertilizer diluted with water 1:3 (1 part fertilizer and 3 parts water). It is better to feed not at the root, but by spraying. You can also feed directly into the water lily once every 30 days. Using this method, you need to feed 50% of the water lilies. It is better to use cottage cheese and meat as a top dressing.

Trimming

In the spring, the flycatcher needs to be pruned. Only mature plants should be trimmed. This procedure will improve appearance plant and speed up its growth.

Transfer

In order for Nepenthes to grow and please you, you need to choose the right soil and pot. Soil should be purchased for orchids, and the pot must be plastic. Also, if possible, it is advisable to buy sphagnum moss.

So, everything you need is available, all that remains is to transplant the nepenthes. You need to put expanded clay on the bottom of the pot, then a little soil. Remove the plant along with the soil so that the roots are not damaged, plant it in a prepared pot and add orchid soil if necessary. Place on top. This will maintain the necessary humidity, without which Nepenthes will wither. After transplantation, it is very useful to spray the flower with a biostimulant. In the future, the flycatcher does not need to be replanted. The temperature acceptable for plant growth should range from 22 to 25 degrees.

Reproduction of the flycatcher

Propagation of Nepenthes by apical stems is most suitable for home conditions. The stem should be cut below the leaf, covered with moss, and planted in a pot away from bright light. The rooting process usually lasts about 2 months. After rooting, the plant should be transplanted into a permanent pot.

Nepenthes seeds are propagated very rarely.

Diseases and pests

When caring for a Nepenthes flower, you should avoid:

• Plant placement in places with insufficient lighting.
• Excessive feeding.
• Chemical processing.
• Growing Nepenthes in moss or peat.

Among the pests, mealybugs can also be distinguished. If they are detected, it is necessary to treat the flytrap with a cotton swab soaked in 60% alcohol. To avoid long-term treatment, you should regularly inspect the flower and properly care for it.

In conclusion, we can say that Nepenthes is a plant for those who are ready to devote their time to it and properly care for it. At good care The flycatcher lives indoors for up to 5 years.