How to properly make a roof in a private house. Do-it-yourself roof installation

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The most common option when building private houses is gable roof, assembled with your own hands from the mauerlat to the ridge. Below in this article you will find drawings and photos, and detailed step-by-step instruction will help you understand them. You will also learn about what height the ridge should be and how it depends on the functionality attic space, learn to calculate thickness and pitch rafter system.

Classic gable roof

What kind of roofs are there?

Main types of roofs of private houses

In order to clearly imagine what a gable roof is, look at what other options are used in the construction of private houses. And this is not all, but the most popular:

1. - the simplest coating option for construction in the private sector. Mainly used for country houses and utility rooms.
2. Gable - the most common option for country houses. Despite its apparent simplicity, this type is very practical and beautiful in execution.
3. Hip - more suitable for houses with large area. This design can withstand very strong wind loads, even storms, due to its streamlined shape.
4. Half-hip - this option is made more for beauty, since this is a prototype gable roof with cut corners from the ends of the ridge.
5. Tent - pyramidal shape is suitable for square buildings. In essence, this is a prototype of a hip roof.
6. Vaulted - rarely used for residential construction, although it is no exception.

For a rectangular house with an area of ​​60 to 100 m2, the option with two slopes can be called the most suitable - it is simple to implement and inexpensive to implement. In addition, you can arrange not only an attic, but also an attic.

Stages of construction of a gable roof

Now let's figure out how to build gable system roofs in a private house. There are several stages in this process and we will consider each of them separately.

Calculation of the rafter system taking into account the current loads

You don’t have to use formulas for calculations if you don’t make roofs in the future and just download the program (http://srub-banya.by/programs/raschet_stropil.exe). By opening the downloaded file, you will be taken to a page with a menu - it is located in a horizontal line at the top.

Main operating loads:

1. Snow cover.
2. Wind pressure.

In addition to the main loads, there are also secondary or “default” ones, these are:

1. Weight of roofing material.
2. Weight of insulation (if provided).
3. Own weight of the rafter system.

Values:

• S – load value in kg/m2.
• µ is the coefficient corresponding to the slope angle of the slope.
• Sg is the snow load standard in kg/m2.

The slope of the slope is expressed in degrees and is designated by the symbol α (alpha). To determine the value of α, you need to divide the height H by half the span L. Below is a table with the results of determining the main slopes.

In cases where:

• α≤30⁰, µ=1;
• α≥60⁰, µ=0;
• 30°<α<60°, µ = 0,033*(60-α).

Distribution of snow loads across Russia

The map shows eight snow regions, and the Sg value for each is calculated in kPa, converted to kg/m2:

• I - 0.8 kPa = 80 kg/m2;
• II - 1.2 kPa = 120 kg/m²;
• III - 1.8 kPa = 180 kg/m²;
• IV - 2.4 kPa = 240 kg/m²;
• V - 3.2 kPa = 320 kg/m²;
• VI - 4.0 kPa = 400 kg/m²;
• VII - 4.8 kPa = 480 kg/m²;
• VIII - 5.6 kPa = 560 kg/m².

For the map given above, Appendix 5 of SNiP 2.01.07-85 “Loads and Impacts” is required. Now let’s make a test calculation for Ivanovo (this is the IV district on the map), the value is 240 kg/m².

This means: H/L=2.5/3.5=0.714

According to the table α=35⁰. Considering that 30°<α<60°, вычисление µ делаем по формуле µ = 0,033·(60-α)=0,033*(50-35)=0,825. Следовательно, S=Sg*µ=240*0,825=198 кг/м², что и есть максимально возможной снеговой нагрузкой.

Wind loads

On steep roofs, where α > 30°, the slopes have a large windage. For flat roofs, where α< 30° увеличена турбулентность.

The average value of wind load Wm at height Z above the ground surface is calculated using the formula Wm=Wo*K*C.

In this formula the meaning is;

• Wo – wind pressure;
• K – coefficient of change in wind pressure relative to height;
• C – aerodynamic coefficient.

Wind loads in the territory of the former USSR

Wind pressure standards by region

Coefficient value

Let's perform a conditional calculation . The aerodynamic coefficient C can be from -8, when the wind undermines the roof, to +0.8 with a large windage (the wind presses on the slope). Taking into account the conventionality of the calculation, we take C = 0.8.

In the same Ivanovo district we take a house where h=6m (α=35⁰). This is region II, where Wo= 30 kg/m², the coefficient is less than 10, which means K=1.0. Therefore: Wm=Wo*K*C=30*1*0.8=24 kg/m².

Roof weight

The weight of the roof varies depending on material

Weight of all components

The conditional calculation for the same house using cement-sand tiles will be:

And here is the calculation for the lightest roofing material, metal tiles:

We calculate the rafter system

In this case, we will be guided by GOST 24454-80 for coniferous species.

Section width (according to board thickness), B	Section height (across the board width), H
16	75	100	125	150	—	—	—	—	—
19	75	100	125	150	175	—	—	—	—
22	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	—	—
25	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
32	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
40	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
44	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
50	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
60	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
75	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
100	—	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
125	—	—	125	150	175	200	225	250	—
150	—	—	—	150	175	200	225	250	—
175	—	—	—	—	175	200	225	250	—
200	—	—	—	—	—	200	225	250	—
250	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	250	—

We take an arbitrary section width and determine the height:

H ≥ 8.6*Lmax*√(Qr/(B* Rbending)), where slope α< 30°,

H ≥ 9.5*Lmax*√(Qr/(B*Rbending)), where Rbending and slope α > 30°.

Values:

• H—section height, cm;
• Lmax - rafter leg of maximum length, m;
• Qr - distributed load per meter of rafter leg, kg/m;
• B - section width, cm.

For softwood lumber Rbending:

• I grade – 140 kg/cm²;
• II grade – 130 kg/cm²;
• III grade – 85 kg/cm².

Now let’s check whether the deflection falls within the standard, which for all materials under load should not exceed the value L/200 (L is the length of the working section of the leg). The indicator must correspond to the inequality: 3.125*Qr*(Lmax)³/(B·H³) ≤ 1.

Meaning:

Lmax—working section of the leg of maximum length, m;

B—section width cm;

H—section height, cm.

We are counting on the same house in Ivanovo, taking into account the conditions where:

• slope α=35⁰;
• rafter pitch A=0.8 m;
• working section of the leg Lmax=2.8 m;
• 1st grade pine beam R bend = 140 kg/cm2;
• cement-sand tiles 50 kg/m2.

In the table above we calculated that with such materials the total load is Q = 303 kg/m².

1. We calculate the load per linear meter of the leg: Qr=A*Q= 0.8*303=242 kg/mline.
2. Let's take a board thickness of 5 cm and calculate the cross-section in height: this means: H ≥ 9.5*Lmax* √(Qr/B*Rbend), since the slope α>30°. H≥9.5*2.8*√(242/5*140)=15.6 cm. Based on the table, the board with the nearest cross-section will be 5×17.5 cm.
3. We check that the inequality is satisfied: 3.125*Qr*(Lmax)³/B*H³≤1 or 3.125*242*(2.8)³*5*(17.5)³=0.61<1.

As a result, we received a cross-section of rafters for constructing a roof of 50×175 mm with a pitch of 80 cm.

Mauerlat installation

Mauerlat on a brick wall

To build a gable roof yourself, you cannot do without a Mauerlat, which is the basis of the rafter system. If we are talking about a residential building, then they usually use timber with a cross-section from 50×150 mm to 150×200 mm (the thicker the wall, the larger the cross-section of the beam in width). The board or beam is mounted on load-bearing walls and fixed with anchors. If we take into account that the Mauerlat will withstand the entire rafter system with associated loads, then its installation will directly affect the mechanical strength of the entire roof. Below is a video that shows how to install a Mauerlat on the walls of a block house.

Video: Installing the Mauerlat

Assembling the rafter system

Rafter legs are easier to assemble on the ground

It is most convenient to assemble a structure such as rafters (2 legs plus additional elements) on the ground, as in the photo above, and not on the roof, in order to then raise it with blocks or simply ropes, but this is not a requirement. Above you could find out how to make calculations for such a system taking into account all the loads, therefore, you already know what section of boards you will need, what the height of the ridge will be and the step size. At the top, the boards are butted together, and the ridge beam is installed only after the outer rafters have been installed.

A system without an overhang, where the legs are fixed with different fasteners

For systems with an overhang, the fasteners are also different

Above you see two diagrams showing rafter systems without an overhang and with an overhang, but the most important thing is to pay attention to the method of fastening, or rather, to the fastening itself. This can be a steel corner (preferably reinforced), short pieces, tightening boards, nails, screws and staples. This is a very important point, since during turbulence the roof can be undermined, and under lateral load it can be overturned, although the result in both cases will be equally disastrous. After installing the side rafters, fix the ridge beam, checking each leg vertically with a level.

Watch the video, which explains some of the nuances of installation, but do not forget that each master may have his own methods, and if you hear or see inconsistencies with your ideas, then this is quite normal.

Video: Installation of the rafter system

Roof

Installation of ceramic tiles

Further work on the installation of the rafter system depends on what is provided in the attic and what roofing material will be used. For example, if you want to arrange an attic there, then it is quite natural that you cannot do without insulation and waterproofing. The heating system, or rather the presence or absence of a chimney, as well as ventilation, will also play a certain role.

Depending on the choice of roofing material, the sheathing is made. That is, it can be intermittent, as in the top photo, or continuous, if you decide to make a roof from bitumen shingles. Also, for roofs they sometimes provide for the installation of a heating cable against icing, and it can be mounted not only from the outside, but also from the inside, laying it under the roof.

Conclusion

You, I hope, have understood how to make a gable roof with your own hands - the most important thing is the correct calculations of the pitch, cross-section of the rafter legs and slope. If you are interested in certain points, such as fastening the Mauerlat, rafters or roofing work, then these are topics for separate articles, which you can also read on our website.

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After the foundation and walls are ready, you can begin the last stage of building a house - installing the roof. The information in this article will help you understand the main aspects of this process. Do-it-yourself roof installation should begin with familiarization with the main types of roofs that are common in private construction.

Types of roofs

There are several main types of structures that differ from each other in the complexity of the work:

Before you begin installing your own roofing, observe the types of roofing on houses in your area. This will help you decide on the desired shape and type of design. Often on medium-sized houses there are broken mansard roofs. This situation is explained by the fact that such roofs allow you to equip the attic for living space. In addition, this type of roof is not difficult to install.

It should also be remembered that the larger the area of ​​the house, the greater the number of additional elements and accessories that can be on the roof surface. But if you do not have sufficient knowledge of creating complex roofs, then it is better to turn to specialists. The more complex the roof, the more complex the rafter system.

Materials you will need

Once you have decided on the type of roofing, you can move on to choosing the covering itself. The number and cross-section of rafters, as well as the technical characteristics of the entire roof, depend on it. After all, do-it-yourself roofing must be done correctly. The most durable rafter system should be under the tiles. Ceramic tiles have much more weight than slate and metal, so it is very important to calculate the characteristics of the rafters for such a coating (more details: ""). To install them, you need to purchase timber, boards, slats and nails. Also, to organize the roofing pie you will need insulation, hydro- and vapor barrier films, screws and nails. The consumption of all materials directly depends on the complexity of the roof, its area and the roofing material itself. Calculations of materials should be carried out in advance, and we recommend that you hire specialists for these purposes.

Sequence of work

The roof installation technology involves laying a mauerlat around the perimeter of the wall. This is a thick beam that serves as a support and foundation for the rafter system. The strength of this element directly affects the strength of the rest of the structure. Therefore, the choice of wood and fastening elements should be approached with special care.

The installation of the Mauerlat is checked with a level. Distortions in one direction or another cannot be allowed. For fastenings it is best to use anchor bolts. They are installed while the reinforcing belt is being poured, while the ends are left protruding (more details: " "). The Mauerlat will later be attached to the bolts. To do this, holes are made in it, strictly in step between the bolts. Place the timber with a sledgehammer, making sure that it lies flat and tight.

After laying the Mauerlat, they proceed to the installation of the truss. The rafters are assembled from thick boards or timber. They will carry the entire main load, so you shouldn’t skimp on materials. Then the rafters are fastened with ties, lintels, spacers and crossbars. If you already know how to install a roof yourself, then all tasks become much easier. If this is your first experience of such work, then it is better to enlist the help of someone who has already installed the roof.

Remember that each rafter leg must rest against the mauerlat, and at the other end it is connected to the opposite rafter. The width of the step depends on the size of the roof and the weight of the roofing pie. The greater the expected load, the narrower the rafter pitch should be.

The part where the beams meet is called the ridge. Crossbars are reinforcing bridges between beams. If you are installing a roof with your own hands, the type of which is gable, then the end result should be a structure in the form of two triangles fastened together. It is more convenient to collect them on the ground. Installation is carried out directly at the top. The assembly of the structure on the roof is carried out only after the ceiling beams have been installed. The rafters are installed as follows - first, the outer beams are fixed, which are fixed with a ridge beam, then proceed to the installation of all the rest. After this, the beams are finally fixed with nails and screws. Additional ties and jumpers are installed in the required places.

Along each rafter leg it is necessary to fill the counter batten slats. It is needed to organize a gap between the rafters and the sheathing. In this way, sufficient space for ventilation is created. Sheathing slats are stuffed onto the counter-lattice. They are fixed with a certain step across the rafters. If all this technology seems too complicated to you to understand, we advise you to contact a more experienced builder, and also look at photos and videos of how to assemble a rafter system, etc. In fact, all the work is not so complicated, it’s just important to understand their principle .

Once the rafter system and sheathing are ready, you can proceed to the next stage of roof installation.

Protection and insulation

Before laying roofing material, it is necessary to arrange roof protection. This item is mandatory, as otherwise cold and moisture will enter the house.

The protective layers of the roof are usually arranged in the following order:

• vapor barrier, which protects the insulation from moisture;
• insulation - keeps the house warm;
• waterproofing, does not allow moisture to pass through to the thermal insulation;
• finishing coating with roofing material.

These four layers are usually called the roofing cake. Work on arranging protection begins with laying a heat insulator between the rafters. Mineral wool is increasingly used as such a material. It is resistant to wear, has a long service life and is lightweight. To reduce the cost of construction, you can use foam plastic, but it is highly toxic and flammable. Therefore, it is not recommended to do insulation in this way. To reliably protect the roof, the insulation is laid in two layers. Thus, you will get a gasket with a thickness of about 10 cm. For regions with a relatively warm climate and not severe winters, 5 cm is enough.

In addition to protecting the house from the cold, thermal insulation acts as a sound-absorbing material. This feature of insulation becomes especially important for houses in noisy places and in the case of using metal coatings as roofing materials.

After laying the insulation, begin installing the vapor barrier film. It is pulled from the inside, from the attic side. The film is secured to the rafter system with a stapler. Thus, it will close the thermal insulation from the inside. This allows you to protect mineral wool from steam that rises from living spaces.

The next stages of roofing work are carried out from the outside. A diffusion waterproofing membrane is laid on top of the thermal insulation. It does not let in moisture that forms on the inner surface of the roofing material or penetrates through small cracks. At the same time, the steam that forms in the heat insulator rises freely and passes through the film. That is, even if the thermal insulation is even slightly saturated with moisture, it will soon be easily removed from this “pie” layer. The film is secured to the sheathing with a stapler.

At this point, the roofing cake is almost ready and all that remains is to lay the final layer. Thus, you almost know everything you need to completely install the roof yourself.

Roof truss system, detailed video instructions:

Finish coating

If you carefully read the previous sections of the article, then you have probably already chosen the roofing material. But let's go through some of them again.

For example, slate has the lowest cost. It makes it quite easy to install the roof and at the same time get reliable protection for your home. But the appearance of such a roof is, to put it mildly, not very attractive. Since slate is not elegant, it is often used for installing roofs on extensions, bathhouses and garages. However, slate will be a good solution for a small country house.

Natural tiles have a much better appearance. A house with such a coating stands out well among others. Shingles have a lot of advantages, but you should remember that they are very heavy. Therefore, the rafter system must be strong enough and of high quality. The service life of such a roof is very long, its installation is relatively easy and quick. But the work will have to involve specialists, since the correct organization of the lathing system plays a huge role.

Metal tiles are very popular. It imitates the appearance of the previous coating. In addition, the technical characteristics are at a high level - durability, beauty, lightness and low cost. Installation of such a roof will not take much time. In addition, thanks to the coating with a protective polymer, metal tiles will last for many years without requiring repairs. From a certain distance, the roof appears to be covered with individual shingles, but in reality it is made up of sheets that must be laid in a specific sequence.

Regardless of the material chosen, you should always place the lower element under the upper one. Each type of roofing has its own installation characteristics, and therefore you must strictly adhere to the work instructions or seek help from professional roofers.

Very often, installing a roof with your own hands ultimately allows you to get a coating that is no different from the work of professionals. The lack of knowledge and experience is compensated by responsibility and the desire to do better, more reliable, more beautiful for yourself.

We do not recommend that amateur builders save on materials, but if you really have “golden hands”, then it is quite possible to save on some accessories. Such roof elements include drainage. It is necessary to ensure that the water that flows along the roof plane is reliably removed and does not fall on the walls and foundation. For these purposes, ordinary plastic pipes cut in half are perfect, from which they can be made. This is a great alternative to pre-made gutters. At the same time, the correctly selected pipe diameter allows you to create a high-quality sediment drainage system.

As a result, the constructed roof, regardless of the chosen material, must meet the requirements of strength and reliability. If you managed to create a coating that protects well from rain and snow, absorbs noise and cold, then you have done all the work correctly and the quality of living in the house will be very high.

According to statistics, every second homeowner built his own home. According to their reviews, erecting a roof yourself is one of the most difficult stages for non-professional builders. Therefore, it is very important to approach this stage with a complete understanding of all the nuances of the process. To understand how to make a roof with your own hands, you need to study the device, installation technology, work order and features of fastening all components of the structure.

Types of roofs

First you need to decide on the form. Today the most popular types are:

Features of forms

Covering the roof with one single slope will save nerves and materials, since structurally this is the simplest option. If you make such a frame yourself, the labor intensity of the work will be minimal and the installation speed will be high. But this form has a drawback - there is no possibility of arranging a full-fledged attic or attic, since the under-roof space is too low.

A gable roof is installed much more often. It is a little more difficult to manufacture, but allows you to get more space. Compared to the hipped one, it has less complexity and mass, but it will be necessary to make triangular pediments at the ends of the building.

Gable - the most popular form

Before you begin to independently construct a roof with four slopes, you will need to seriously prepare. This system has more elements compared to the previous two. In addition, it is not possible to make full-fledged windows in the attic, since the roof structure does not have gables and installation is difficult or cannot be avoided.

The hipped roof is complex in design, but savings are achieved due to the absence of gables

For an attic, an excellent option would be a combined design with. In this case, in the lower part the roof has a greater slope than in the upper section. This assembly allows you to raise the ceiling in the room and make the constructed house more comfortable.

Broken line - not the most “architectural”, but very effective in terms of space used

Calculation

Before starting work, you need to make a design calculation. It makes no sense to calculate the cross sections of all elements. In most cases they can be accepted constructively:

• Mauerlat - 150x150 mm;
• racks - 100x150 or 100x100 mm depending on the cross-section of the rafters;
• struts - 100x150 or 50x150 mm, taking into account ease of connection with the rafters;
• puffs - 50x150 mm on both sides;
• purlins - 100x150 or 150x50 mm;
• overlays with thickness from 32 to 50 mm.

Calculations are usually performed only for rafter and slope legs. It is necessary to select the height and width of the section. The parameters depend on:

• roofing material;
• snow area;
• pitch of the rafters (selected so that it is convenient to lay the insulation; for mineral wool, there should be 58 cm of clearance between the elements);
• span.

You can select the cross section of the rafters using general recommendations. But in this case it is recommended to make a small reserve.

The calculation is usually performed for rafter legs

If you don’t want to delve into the intricacies of calculations, you can use special ones.

If you plan to make a warm roof, then the height of the cross-section of the legs is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation. It must be mounted so that it does not protrude above the supporting beams. You also need to take into account that for mineral wool a ventilation gap of 2-4 cm is made between it and the coating. If the height of the rafters is not enough for this, provision is made for installing a counter-lattice (counter battens).

Step-by-step instructions for performing the work

The sequence of stages of roof construction is as follows:

1. taking measurements of the building box (dimensions may slightly differ from the design ones);
2. preparation of materials and tools, treatment of wood with antiseptic;
3. fastening the Mauerlat to the wall;
4. installation of a ridge crossbar, if needed (for layered rafters);
5. frame installation;
6. strengthening the roof using racks, struts and tie-downs;
7. waterproofing;
8. sheathing;
9. providing ventilation;
10. installation of drips;
11. installation of coating.

Fastening the Mauerlat

In order for the roof to be securely fastened, you need to ensure that it is securely connected to the wall of the building. If a wooden house is being built, then the Mauerlat is not required - this element is the upper crown made of timber or logs. In this case, fastening to the wall is carried out using special “floating” fasteners. They are sold ready-made, most often called sleds. This type of roof arrangement allows the entire structure to shift slightly as the walls shrink without destruction or deformation.

“Sliding” fastening in a wooden house

A similar situation arises with a frame house. In this case, the Mauerlat will be the top frame of the walls. It is attached to the frame posts with a gash using angles, staples or nails.

Methods of attaching rafters to the frame in a frame house

The roof structure made of brick, concrete blocks or concrete involves fastening through a Mauerlat. In this case, there are several ways.

There are four ways to place the Mauerlat on the wall:

• on staples;
• on stiletto heels;
• on anchor bolts.

The Mauerlat can be secured to brackets. In this case, wooden blocks are placed into the masonry from the inside. They should be located at a distance of 4 rows from the edge. One side of the bracket is attached to the mauerlat, and the other to the same block in the masonry. The method can also be considered simple. It is not recommended for large buildings with high loads.

Fastening the Mauerlat to brackets. Antiseptic wooden blocks are provided in the masonry of the wall with a pitch of 1-1.5 m

When installing the roof yourself, fastening can be done through studs or anchor bolts with a diameter of 10-12 mm. The fasteners are laid in the masonry. The Mauerlat is temporarily placed on the sawn-off edge and lightly hit with a hammer. After this, indentations remain on the beam at the fastening points. You need to make holes for the studs along them. After this, the beam is put on the fasteners and the nuts are tightened. The method is ideal for walls made of lightweight concrete with a monolithic reinforced belt.

Fastening the rafters to the mauerlat

In houses made of brick or stone, it is more reasonable to perform it using rigid fastening of the rafters to the mauerlat. In this case, you can use both a layered and hanging system. The design involves two methods:

• with notch;
• without cutting.

In the first case, the rafters are cut with a slope so that they are tightly adjacent to the mauerlat. To remove the cornice, fillies are provided. They are attached to the leg with an overlap of at least 1 m. Rigid fixation of the assembly should be done using self-tapping screws, nails or staples. But the assembled frame will be more reliable if metal corners with holes for self-tapping screws are used for fixation.

The method without cutting often does not involve the use of fillies. In this case, the beams themselves provide the frame extension. This option is simpler than the previous one, since it does not require high precision. It is suitable for beginners. In this case, stop bars or boards are used to ensure a tight fit to the Mauerlat. Rigid fixation, as in the previous case, is performed with metal corners on both sides.

Attaching rafters to the wall

The completed frame must be secured to the frame of the building - this will prevent a strong gust of wind from tearing off the roof. To do this, the rule is to use a twist of two wires with a diameter of 4 mm. They are wrapped around the leg where it rests on the mauerlat, and then the wire is attached to the wall with an anchor or ruff about 4-5 rows before the cut. The element must be laid in the masonry in advance.

Wind protection

For a wooden house, you can simplify the task. You can assemble the frame using staples. This option will speed up the process. But it is important to remember that this method is only suitable if the walls are made of wood.

Strengthening the system

How to strengthen the frame for spans of more than 6 meters? It is necessary to reduce the free span of the rafters. For this purpose, struts and racks are used. Reinforcement must be done taking into account the layout; it is important that these elements do not interfere with people’s stay and fit harmoniously into the interior.

The struts are usually placed at an angle of 45 or 60 degrees to the horizontal plane. The racks cannot be supported on the floor span. They can be installed on underlying walls or beams and trusses thrown between walls.

Tightening is necessary to reduce the thrust. Because of it, the rafters can simply move apart. This is especially true for systems with hanging beams. To assemble the frame, use two ties, which are attached on both sides of the rafters. Fixation is carried out using screws, nails or studs.

At the top point, the rafters rest on an intermediate or ridge girder. Depending on the chosen system, location and width of the span, it is made of timber with a cross-section from 50x100 to 100x200 mm. Fastening is carried out on connecting metal plates, bolts or nails.

Lathing

Before starting work at this stage, it is necessary to lay waterproofing material. Builders recommend using a vapor diffusion moisture-proof membrane. It costs more than plastic film, but provides more reliable protection. Owning your own home is not a reason to save money.

The roof requires fastening of the sheathing. The type depends on the selected roofing material. For metal, a sparse sheathing of boards 32-40 mm thick will be sufficient. Under bitumen shingles you need a continuous sheathing made of 25-32 mm boards or moisture-resistant plywood.

Ventilation of the under-roof space

Before proceeding with the roofing stage, it is worth considering the ventilation of the under-roof space. This will protect structures from mold, mildew and destruction.

Proper ventilation under the roof will protect the structure from the appearance of fungus

For ventilation it is necessary to provide:

• air flow through the cornice (the cornice is hemmed with a sparse board or special perforated soffits);
• air movement under the coating (there should be a gap of 2-3 cm between the insulation and the roof);
• air outlet in the area of ​​the ridge (for this, a ridge and/or point aerator is installed on the roof).

Roof covering

The type of roof is selected for aesthetic and economic reasons. It is also worth studying the manufacturers’ proposals and finding out the permissible slope. For example, it is not recommended to lay bitumen shingles on a slope of more than 45°.

Seam roofing is a lightweight fireproof and durable covering

The flooring material must provide reliable waterproofing. Its installation is carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. There are five most common types of coverage: roof insulation.

Everything will be calculated and taken into account.

Types of roofing. Pitched roofs (for example, attics) traditionally have a frame supporting system consisting of rafters, a ridge, a mauerlat, various struts, sheathing, etc. The material for the supporting elements can be wood or a metal profile.

What kind of roofs do houses have?

Before starting construction with your own hands, you need to decide what kind of roof the house should have, carry out all the preparatory work, and draw up a drawing.

First you need to consider what types of roofs there are, what their features are.

Modern construction uses different types of roofs and types of their arrangement. A shed roof is used in a house where one of the walls is higher than the other. This is the cheapest design in terms of roofing and lumber consumption. For private housing construction, this design is rarely used. As a rule, this type of roof is installed on outbuildings, garages, and sometimes on sheds. Such a roof does not have an attic space and a rafter system in the classical sense.

Hip roof - a 4-slope roof with triangular slopes from the ridge to the eaves (hips) on the end sides. If the slope does not reach the eaves, the roof is called half-hip.

A gable roof is two rectangles connected at the top sides. They form two pediment triangular planes. The area of ​​the slopes can be very different, it all depends on the size of the building. Such a structure can be easily built with your own hands. In addition, there will be an attic that can be used as a utility room, or an additional room can be equipped. This must be taken into account when drawing up a drawing of the future roof.

The hip roof is the most common type of roofing for private housing construction. It looks like four triangles (not necessarily identical), which are connected by their vertices at one point.

First, a reinforced reinforced concrete belt is made. It runs along the top of the walls of the house. Its purpose is to strengthen the top of the masonry and level the horizontal mark of the walls of a private house. For wooden house construction, this structural element is not taken into account.

Galvanized studs must be inserted into the reinforcement frame of the belt. They will help attach the Mauerlat to the base of the reinforced belt. Calculation of the length of the studs should take into account the protrusion from the Mauerlat by 2-3 cm. The Mauerlat plays the role of the base of the rafter system; it is made of timber with a cross-section of 150x150 mm or 200x200 mm. The calculation of the cross section depends on the load that the rafter system can withstand and the weight of the roofing pie. The power of the Mauerlat depends on the magnitude of the loads. All this data should be reflected in the drawing of the rafter system. Waterproofing is laid on the reinforced belt. This simple operation can be done with your own hands. You can use roofing felt as waterproofing, laying it in two layers. It is better to take galvanized nuts for the studs that will fasten the Mauerlat, this will help avoid corrosion. During installation, you need to use a building level to maintain horizontality.

To build correctly with your own hands, you need to be extremely careful. For each element, a calculation must be made and everything must be entered into the drawing. Then the roof of the house will be built correctly and will last for many years.

Installation of house roof rafters

The role of rafters can be played by a board (section 150x50 mm) or timber. In addition, you cannot do without different bars, boards of different sections to arrange spacers, crossbars, struts and other connecting elements. The presence of all the necessary elements should be reflected in the drawing, which must be constantly consulted during construction.

What type of roof is chosen determines which rafters will be installed: layered or hanging. A hip roof involves the installation of diagonal rafters and frames, that is, short rafter legs, the purpose of which is to support the diagonal rafters on both sides. They rest on the mauerlat.

Sloping rafters, compared to conventional rafters, must withstand one and a half loads. The length of such rafters is longer than the standard length material used for ordinary rafters, so they are made in pairs.

When building with your own hands, you definitely need helpers. The owner of a private house cannot cope with such work on his own.

Regardless of which rafter system is used, the Mauerlat serves as a support for the lower end of the rafter. The upper ends rest on the ridge. Sometimes it is possible to focus on the opposite rafter. This is how roof trusses are made. For connection, a ridge beam or two boards are used, located at an angle on both sides, which form a ridge. To strengthen the rafter legs and give the entire structure the necessary rigidity, spacers and struts, jibs and braces are used. Everything is carried out depending on the requirements included in the drawing. The legs of the rafters must protrude beyond the walls of the house by at least 400 mm to protect their foundation from precipitation.

For private housing construction (step) is in the range from 0.6 to 1 m. Calculation of the pitch of rafter legs and their number can be done as follows:

1. Measure the length of the roof slope and multiply this value by the selected distance.
2. Add 1 to the resulting amount and round to the nearest whole number. Thus, the required number of rafters for one slope is obtained.
3. Divide the length of the roof slope by the resulting value - the result is the distance that should be between the axes of the rafters or the pitch. The axis runs through the center of the rafter.

For example: a roof slope is 17 m long, the step size is chosen to be 0.6 m, it turns out 17/0.6+1= 29.3 = 29 rafters needed for the slope.

Then the length of the slope is divided by the resulting value: 17/29 = 0.58.

0.58 cm is the distance between the axes of the rafters that will be installed on the roof.

It should be taken into account that the pitch of the rafters also changes depending on the type of roofing and the slope angle. The greater the slope, the larger the pitch of the rafters. If the roof is steep, then the load in it is not distributed over the entire roof plane. Most of it falls on load-bearing walls. For example, if the slope angle is 15 degrees, then the distance between the rafters will be 0.8 m, and if you increase the slope angle to 75 degrees, then the pitch will become larger - 1.3 m.

It is also important to consider the length of the rafter leg. The longer it is, the smaller the step between them. With a large length, deflection loads increase, which can be reduced using a system of supporting posts.

The rafter system of a gable roof is a set of triangles placed in a row, which are connected at the top by a longitudinal beam. In a hip roof, the ridge has a forked appearance at the end, forming two diagonal rafters on each side, which bear the main load from the roofing pie. This is a complex design, and it is not easy to do it yourself.

For a gable roof, the first triangles of rafters are assembled on the ground. They are then lifted and temporarily secured using spacers. Immediately you need to strengthen it with ridge beams. Afterwards, you can begin installing the remaining rafters, according to the requirements included in the drawing.

Rafters can be fastened not only by mortise and notch, but also by iron brackets and metal corners, self-tapping screws and nails.

Installation of sheathing for roofing material

After the rafter structure is completely installed, the counter-lattice is inserted into the rafters from bars with a cross-section of 50x50. There should be a gap of 50 mm between the waterproofing and the insulation. This method allows the roof to “breathe” and prevent moisture from accumulating.

Waterproofing is laid on top of the counter-lattice. If the attic will be used as a living space, then insulation should be done immediately: lay mineral wool or polystyrene foam in the space between the rafters. This layer will act as an additional noise absorber. A vapor barrier membrane is laid on top. This will prevent condensation from forming.

The sheathing is attached on top of the waterproofing, perpendicular to the rafters. To do this, you can use boards, bars or moisture-resistant plywood. It all depends on what roofing covering is taken into account in the drawing of the future roof. For a soft roof, a continuous sheathing is required.

Roof covering for roof

When drawing up a drawing of the roof of a house, depending on the slope, it is indicated which roofing covering will be used. Slate covering or tiles are used with a minimum slope of 22 degrees. When using a soft roof (roofing felt, euroroofing felt), you need to take into account the number of layers: for three - 5 degrees of slope, for two layers - 15 degrees. If a profiled sheet is used, the slope should be at least 12 degrees, for metal tiles - at least 14. The ondulin coating is mounted on a surface with a slope of 6 degrees, and for soft tiles, 11 degrees are required. Membrane coating can be used on any roof configuration and on any slope, the minimum is 3-5 degrees.

The roof covering is laid from the bottom up and from the edge of the roof opposite the windy side. The fasteners will depend on what material is chosen.

The roof is one of the most complex and important architectural elements of a house. Its construction must be approached very responsibly - mistakes are too expensive. It is not for nothing that roofers are considered the most paid builders; the durability and comfort of a building largely depends on their skill. The construction process itself consists of several steps.

Step 1. Select a project

The main differences between roof projects are not design, although they are primarily striking, but structural. When choosing a specific project, you should take into account the maximum number of technical characteristics of the building and the climatic zone of its location.

What roofing options are offered to developers today?

Roof type	Short description
	The simplest one, used in small houses. The advantage is a simple rafter system. The disadvantage is the lack of residential attic space. It is rarely used in our country; such houses can be seen more often in Scandinavian countries.
	A universal roof for houses, allows you to build attic spaces, can be simple or broken. In terms of complexity, cost and manufacturability, most developers are satisfied. By changing the angle of inclination, the load indicators on the elements of the rafter system are adjusted.
	A more complex design, it is recommended to install it on larger houses. The rafter system must be installed taking into account all building codes and regulations, and preliminary calculations must be made.
	It differs from the hip one in that the sizes of the slopes are not the same. Two slopes are large, and two trimmed ones are small. The technical structure is somewhat more complicated than the hip roof, but such roofs increase the volume of the attic space.
	All slopes have the shape of equilateral triangles, and their vertices converge at one point. The roof can be installed on square-shaped houses.
	The most complex of all the roofs listed, it is rarely used and only on multi-story buildings.

Step 2. Selecting materials

Once a specific roof option has been selected, you need to decide on the materials for the construction of the rafter system and the type of roofing coverings.

Important. At the same stage, you need to decide whether the roof will be warm for living quarters or cold.

Rafter system

The rafter system requires only high-quality materials of at least second grade.

Practical advice. To save money for the rafter system, you can buy wet boards rather than dry ones; they are much cheaper. But it should be remembered that raw lumber must be used no later than 7–10 days, during which time the rafter system must be installed and the roof covered. The boards will dry optimally under load, and strong mechanical connections will prevent them from warping.

Prices for various types of construction boards

Construction boards

The Mauerlat is made from 100×100 mm timber or 50×200 mm boards. Rafter legs are made from boards 50×150 mm or 50×100 mm. The linear dimensions of the rafter legs must take into account the maximum possible static and dynamic forces. The width of the boards can be changed by using various vertical and angular stops. Each rafter system has its own characteristics; the master must have extensive practical experience in order to correctly solve problems that arise during construction. And, of course, a project must be ordered for a residential building; a self-built building is considered illegal and will not be accepted for use. This means that light and heating cannot be connected to it, such a room is not registered, it cannot be given or bequeathed. The project, among others, has working drawings of the rafter system; it is necessary to strictly follow the engineers’ recommendations.

The type of lathing depends on the type of roofing; for soft roofing materials it is necessary to make a continuous one, for hard ones any kind is suitable. For a solid one, you need to prepare sheets of plywood or OSB, the thickness is at least one centimeter, but it can be changed depending on the pitch of the rafter legs.

Prices for OSB (oriented strand boards)

OSB (oriented strand board)

You can make a continuous sheathing from edged slats, although this option is difficult to consider optimal - it is very expensive and time-consuming. For solid roofing materials, the sheathing is made of slats or unedged boards. Unedged lumber must be sanded.

Roofing materials

For residential buildings, the most budget-friendly options are bitumen or metal shingles.

Less commonly used are profiled sheets or roll coverings.

Very rarely natural or artificial piece tiles.

The rafter system largely depends on the type of materials. At the design stage, it is necessary to take into account the weight and fastening features of roofing coverings.

Prices for various types of roofing materials

Roofing materials

Insulation materials

Warm roofs are installed only in cases where attic spaces are planned to be converted into residential attics. Currently, two types of insulation are used: mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

The distance between the rafter legs should take into account the factory width of the insulation, thereby reducing the amount of unproductive waste and speeding up work.

The weight of insulation is minimal and can be neglected during the design of the rafter system. But you should keep in mind the climatic zone where the house is located; the thickness of the insulation and, accordingly, the width of the rafter boards depend on this.

Practical advice. For all climatic regions, the thickness of the insulation should be at least 10 cm; for the middle zone, this parameter increases to 15 cm. If the insulation layer is less than the recommended values, then the efficiency of heat saving sharply decreases.

Additional roof materials

If the roof is warm, then it is necessary to provide for the installation of steam and water protection, and the installation of counter-lattice to ensure natural ventilation of the under-roof space. The range of materials is huge, but by and large they are not much different from each other. The performance characteristics are influenced to a greater extent by compliance with installation technology than by the physical characteristics of roofing membranes. Even very cheap material can be used in such a way that it satisfies all building codes and requirements. Conversely, the most modern innovative material can be mounted in such a way that, apart from harm, there will be no positive effect.

And the last thing you should think about when planning the construction of the roof is the drainage system and special elements for bypassing chimney and ventilation pipes. For some linings and snow retainers, it is necessary to provide additional fixation points on the rafter system. It is much more expedient to do this at the stage of its construction than after fixing the roofing materials. Although modern technologies make it possible to use both options for installing additional and special roof elements.

This completes the preparatory stage. If all building materials are prepared, the type of roof and roofing coverings are selected, and the rafter system is designed, then you can begin the actual construction of the roof.

Construction of the rafter system

Important. Mistakes made during the construction of the rafter system are very difficult to correct. Most of them will become noticeable already during the operation of the building, this is extremely unpleasant. There are situations when it will take more money to correct the shortcomings of the rafter system than to build a new roof. And this is also the case when, due to leaks, there is no need to repair the interior.

As an example, we will look at step-by-step instructions for one of the most complex roofs - a hipped roof. Understanding the construction technology of this rafter system, it will not be difficult to understand the technology and assemble simpler single-pitch or gable roofs yourself.

Step 1. Take two long boards, with their help it is easier to determine the length of the rafter legs, the angle of the slopes and the height of the roof. Temporarily fix the boards to a vertical support on the wall of the house. Raise or lower them until you find an acceptable position. If the size of the house allows, then it is better to design the rafter system so that the length of the legs does not exceed 6 m. Such lumber can be purchased, there will be no need to increase it. Building up not only takes a lot of time, but also weakens the structure and requires the installation of additional supports.

Step 2. Fill the reinforcing belt. It not only increases the height of the attic space, but also makes it possible to extend the overhang of the rafters and additionally protect the facade walls from precipitation. The width of the belt should be at least 30 cm, the height depending on the size of the house.

How to fill a reinforcing belt?

Important. The difference in height at the corners of the reinforcing belt should not exceed ± 2 cm. To check, you need to pull the rope, with its help it is much easier to level the concrete surface.

Allow at least three days for the concrete to harden. Remember that it will gain 50% strength only after two weeks, only then can the structure be fully loaded. If the weather is very warm and windy, then the concrete belt should be watered generously with water at least twice a day. Concrete gains strength not during drying, but during favorable chemical reactions; this constantly requires moisture.

The construction of a rafter system conventionally consists of four stages: installation of the mauerlat, installation of the ridge beam, installation of rafters (hip and diagonal) and arrangement of the sheathing.

Mauerlat installation

Work begins after the concrete of the reinforcing belt has gained sufficient strength and the formwork has been dismantled. For the Mauerlat, 200×100 mm timber is used. This is a very important element of the rafter system; it serves to support the rafter legs and uniformly distribute point loads over the entire area of ​​the façade walls.

Step 1. Place the timber next to the reinforcing belt, accurately mark the exit points of the anchors. It's easier to do this without a tape measure. Turn it over with the narrow side down and place it on your belt, using a pencil to mark the position of the anchors. Then transfer the marks to the wide side of the beam; holes must be drilled in these places.

Practical advice. If there are doubts about the accuracy of taking measurements, then drill holes for anchors with a diameter 2–3 mm larger than the diameter of the studs. This will not have a negative impact on the strength of the Mauerlat, but will make it much easier to install it in place.

Step 2. Drill holes, hold the drill as vertically as possible, do not allow distortions. The work must be carried out by an experienced carpenter. A beginner can ruin the beam; all the holes will have to be shifted by reducing its length.

Practical advice. If there are doubts about the strength of the concrete of the reinforcing belt, then do not tighten the nuts with great force. They can be tightened later during the construction of the rafter system.

Step 3. Prepare strips of waterproofing under the Mauerlat; it is better to buy ordinary cheap roofing felt. The strip is cut from the roll; there is no need to roll it out. The material is perfectly cut with a grinder and a metal disc.

Step 4. Spread strips of waterproofing on the reinforcing belt. Making holes is much easier with a hammer. Place the roofing felt on the anchors and use a hammer to carefully punch holes in the waterproofing for the studs. You just need to do this carefully, you can’t hit it too hard. Otherwise, there is a risk of damaging the upper threads and problems will arise when tightening the nuts. If you are afraid, then before laying the roofing material on all the studs, screw the nuts; after unscrewing, they will automatically align the damaged turns.

Step 5. Install the beam onto the anchors and tighten with nuts. Be sure to place large diameter washers under them. If the Mauerlat fits tightly onto the studs, you will have to hammer it in with a sledgehammer. This situation indicates insufficient qualifications of roofers.

It is better to make Mauerlat from pine rather than spruce; it contains much more resin, and accordingly, it is not damaged by putrefactive diseases longer. How to distinguish pine from other coniferous woods? For several reasons. First, the wood smells of resin and turpentine. Second - the pine has a bright yellow tint, large and lively knots. Third, the presence of black spots on pine lumber indicates a high resin content; it acquires this color after oxidation in air. Spruce is whiter, lighter in weight, has few knots and has an unpleasant smell of cat feces.

At the corners and along the length, the beams are connected into half a tree; it is advisable to fix these places with long nails or self-tapping screws made of stainless alloys.

Installation of a ridge beam

For horizontal support, vertical posts and the upper ridge girder, you can use 50x150 mm timber. The lower element must be secured with anchors, and waterproofing must be placed between the concrete floor slab and the wood. All fastenings are made with nails; they should be driven in obliquely. If you wish, you can use metal corners. To calculate the size of the ridge beam, you need to subtract its width from the length of the house, the resulting value is the length of the element. Calculation is needed to ensure that all four overhangs are the same.

Installation of rafters

This is the most difficult stage of building a rafter system. The system will be without thrust; special cuts are made on the rafter legs to rest against the mauerlat. In this position, they do not push the walls apart, but press them together; this rafter system is more stable than a layered one.

Step 1. Install diagonal rafters. For their manufacture, a 50×150 mm board is used; if the length is not enough, then the materials should be spliced. During splicing, it is necessary to strictly follow the existing recommendations, while at the joints it is necessary to install a support in the future; this should be kept in mind when choosing the location for the extension. Make sure that all four elements are located at the same angle. If the overhang size is slightly different, this is not a problem; the parameter can be easily adjusted to the required value using fillets.

Practical advice. To increase the strength of the diagonal rafters, it is recommended to knock down two beams, as a result the thickness will increase to 100 mm. It is necessary to knock down with a shift, due to this the length of the element simultaneously increases.

Step 2. Proceed with the installation of ordinary rafters. In the places where the mauerlat stops, you need to saw down the platform, the upper end is fixed to the ridge girder.

Drive all connections onto three nails at an angle. Two nails are driven into the sides and one into the edge of the beam.

Important. If the roof is insulated, then the rafter spacing is 60 cm, which is exactly the width of most insulation materials. But dimensions should be taken not along the lateral planes of the lumber, but along the axis of symmetry.

To increase stability, additionally secure the rafters with metal corners. It is not necessary to screw in self-tapping screws; it is much more convenient to use nails; this does not reduce the stability of the structure. The fact is that they work for cutting, and not for pulling out.

The rafters must be positioned under the rope. First, the two outer legs are mounted and their position is carefully checked. Everything is within normal limits - stretch a rope between them and install all the remaining elements under it.

Step 3. Align the overhang of the rafters under the cornice. It should be marked with a construction rope; it is easier to cut with a gasoline saw.

Practical advice. If piece tiles are used to cover the roof, then the rafter structure will have to be strengthened. This is not difficult to do; you just need to install additional purlins and rest your feet on them.

Installation of sheathing

As we mentioned above, the type of lathing depends on the type of roofing. But in all cases, it is recommended to treat the lathing materials with antiseptics. The fact is that they work in conditions difficult for natural ventilation; additional protection against rotting is very important. Building codes require that all wooden elements be impregnated with fire protection; now there are dual-action preparations that protect against both fire and rot. The requirements must be fulfilled. But in practice, both protected and unprotected houses burn with equal success.

Video - Installation of lathing under metal tiles

Roof installation

The technology depends on the selected materials. For all cases, there is universal advice - you need to cover the house as quickly as possible. If insulation is installed, it must be done from inside the building, thus eliminating the risk of the mineral wool getting wet. Wet wool is a problem for roofers. It will have to be removed for drying; during dismantling, a large amount becomes unusable, and the total time for constructing the roof of the house increases significantly.

Prices for mineral wool

Video - DIY metal roofing installation

Video - Errors in installing metal tiles

Installation of a drainage system

Video - Installation of gutters