How to pinch indoor chrysanthemum. Chrysanthemum Chinese or mulberry

In order for chrysanthemums to delight with lush flowering for a long time, it is necessary to properly prepare the soil, plant on time, feed and water at the right time, and do not forget about the formation of the bush and shelter for the winter. And if desired, you can prolong the flowering by transplanting chrysanthemums into pots and decorating the window sill in a city apartment with them.

WE'RE PREPARING A PLACE OF RESIDENCE

As we have already mentioned, chrysanthemums prefer a sunny place protected from the wind. Good predecessors -perennial herbs, legumes and ornamental plants that have an annual development cycle, preferably not from the Asteraceae family. Chrysanthemums can be returned to their old place no earlier than after 2 years. You should also avoid planting in areas where potatoes and midoras grew the previous year.

Places for chrysanthemums have been prepared since autumn. First, they dig to a depth of 20-30 cm. Then, if the soil pH is below 6.5, lime with chalk, preferably powdered (400-500 g per 1 m 2). In the fall, superphosphate (40-50 g per 1 m2) and potassium salt (20-30 g per 1 m2) are also added.

In the spring, as soon as the soil dries out slightly, the area is again dug up and harrowed, and just before planting it is treated with a universal cutter. Spring digging is carried out to a shallower depth than in autumn, so as not to turn weed seeds to the surface. Before planting, add humus: 1-2 buckets per 1 m2.

Chrysanthemums are planted on a hill, that is, in flower beds, ridges, beds 20-30 cm high and at least 1 m wide. The distance between plants depends on the size of the bushes and the number of stems in adulthood. For spreading and branching medium-sized plants, the planting pattern can be 40x50, for low-growing border plants - 30x40 cm. The preparation of the planting site is completed 2-4 days before planting the seedlings.

WE BUY PLANTING MATERIAL

Chrysanthemums are purchased in the form of seedlings or rooted cuttings, which are then grown independently. Cuttings should be purchased in April, and seedlings at the end of May. When choosing a variety, keep in mind that for the middle zone, chrysanthemums that bloom early (July-August) or mid-flowering (September-October) and are not too tall (up to 1.2 m) are preferable.

You should buy planting material not in markets, but in botanical gardens, gardening firms, specialized floriculture farms.

Before purchasing plants, ask the seller for their full characteristics: name of the variety, adult size, strength of the stems, winter hardiness, growing characteristics.

Refuse to purchase if you find out that the plants you chose were grown in the south or grew year-round in a greenhouse. Remember, handsome appearance planting material does not guarantee its viability in the future. Be especially careful with imported chrysanthemums. As a rule, they are sold treated with inhibitors (growth inhibitors) or growth agents. As a result, from a giant plant you will get a dwarf or vice versa.

WE PLANT ACCORDING TO THE RULES

Chrysanthemums are planted when the danger of spring frosts has passed and the soil has warmed up to a level of 12-14 ° C at a depth of 15-20 cm. In the Moscow region this happens in early June, in the south - at the end of May. Cool and cloudy days are chosen for planting. In hot and windy weather, planting material takes root much worse.

For better lighting Plants are planted in a checkerboard pattern. First, holes are made that exceed the size of the root system along with the soil ball, but not deeper than 35 cm. Drainage made of expanded clay and sand is placed at the bottom, covered with humus or limed peat, filled with fertilizer (50 g of chalk and 10 g of Kemira-universal per bucket ). After this, the soil in the hole is moistened, and in hot sunny weather it is filled with water.

3-5 hours before planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly to better preserve the earthen coma. Then the plants are knocked out of pots or cups and placed in the prepared hole so that the base of the stem is at the same soil level as in the container for seedlings. In this case, the root collar should not be buried more than 2 cm.

After planting, the soil around the bush is slightly compacted, a hole is made and watered. If the height of the stems of the seedlings is 30 cm or higher, they are tied to stakes. It is better to make them from branches of coniferous trees, removing the bark. The stakes are installed on the side of the prevailing wind direction at a distance of 5-8 cm from the stem and driven into the soil to a depth of 20-25 cm. They are tied with twine or sponge: they do not slip on the wood.

To better retain moisture, plantings are mulched with peat humus with sand or leaf soil, or pine needles.

Before planting, do not forget to place signs with the names of the varieties near the holes. They can be metal, painted oil paint, woodenor plastic.

FORMING BUSHES

Most varieties of Korean chrysanthemums grown in open ground are small- and medium-flowered. Their formation mainly consists of pinching shoots that violate the given or naturally formed shape of the bush, and removing buds that appear in spring and early summer.

To get well-branching bushes, small-flowered varieties are pinched 1 or 2 times. Moreover, they do this with an interval of at least 30 days. The number of pinches depends on the degree of branching of the bush. If after the first 7-12 shoots are formed, the second is not carried out.

Pinching is the removal of the upper part of the shoot. It is carried out during the active growth of the bush, before the formation of buds. Medium-flowered chrysanthemums are pinched when the central shoot reaches a height of 10-12 cm and a bush of 3-5 shoots is formed. With small-flowered ones proceed as follows. When grown with one pinching, the tip of the central shoot is removed above the 8-10th leaf. With two pinchings, the first time is to remove the top of the central shoot (above the 6-8th leaf), and the second time - the tops of the lateral shoots (above the 3-5th leaf).

Otherwise, large-flowered cut varieties (more than 10 cm in diameter) are formed. They are pinched or cut when the stem length is 10-15 cm and 6-8 leaves are formed, leaving 4-6. Do this once or twice. The second pinching is carried out over the 2-3rd leaf, when the side shoot is 10-12 cm. But this must be done no later than June.

In addition to pinching, shoots developing from the axils of the leaves are removed from large-flowered chrysanthemums, that is, they are pinched. At the same time as the shoots, the side buds are also plucked out. They do this every day starting in mid-July, and once every 3 days in August and September. Stepchildren should be removed when they can be easily plucked out with your fingers without touching the stem and leaves.

Pinching buds is the same technique usually used for large-flowered chrysanthemums. It consists of choosing the best inflorescence. But in order to decide which bud to bet on, you need to know how their development is progressing.

The first bud, zero or spring, appears in May - early June. But its development is suppressed by the second-order shoot that follows it, on which a bud develops, called the first crown bud. However, it may not develop due to the growth of a third-order shoot, at the end of which a bud also develops - already the second crown, and then the third crown appears.

Observations over many years have established that flowers best quality are formed from the first or second crown bud. Therefore, one of them is left and the other is removed. They also get rid of the spring and third crown buds.

In medium- and small-flowered varieties, buds can also be pinched. On these chrysanthemums, the best inflorescences form the second crown buds after pinching them twice. The size of the flowers can be further increased if you leave 3-5 flower-bearing shoots on the bush and one inflorescence on each.

Pinchingchrysanthemumschrysanthemums

WE CARE AND PROTECT

Caring for chrysanthemums includes following works: periodic weeding and loosening (once every 8-10 days), watering at the roots, applying fertilizers, if necessary, tying fast-growing stems to stakes, collecting and removing old leaves, especially in the lower part of the bush, pruning shoots (before flowering ), mulching the soil surface with peat, straw or crushed bark.

WATERING

Chrysanthemums are watered only at the root; the leaves are not sprayed with water. In the first half of summer, when shoots grow and buds set, in hot sunny weather Plants are watered as the soil dries, on average 2-3 times a week. Watering can be alternated with loosening, which replaces it. During budding, water less frequently - about 1-2 times a week - and very rarely during flowering. In dry autumn, flowering chrysanthemums again need watering, since renewal buds are formed at this time. Therefore, in September they are watered 3 times a month, and abundantly.

FEEDING

12 days after planting, chrysanthemums are fed with nitrogen fertilizer - ammonium nitrate (25-30 g/m2) or organic matter (bird droppings or mullein, fermented and diluted 20 times). In the second half of summer, when buds appear, fertilizing should be phosphorus-potassium, at the rate of 20 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m2.

Dry fertilizing is carried out during rain or along with watering. But better fertilizer apply in the form of solutions. To do this, the above doses are dissolved in 10 liters of water and at least 0.5 liter is poured onto each bush. They feed carefully so that fertilizers do not fall on young leaves and especially the growth point, and if this happens, they should be immediately washed off with clean water.

DEFENCE FROMFROZOKOV

To save chrysanthemums from short-term frosts in the fall and prolong flowering, in October a frame about 2 m high is placed above them and a film is pulled over it. Then flowering will continue for another whole month.

If chrysanthemums bloom at the end of September, and you want to start admiring them at the beginning of the month, reduce the daylight hours for them in August to 10 hours, covering them with a cardboard box or black non-woven film for 2 hours in the morning and evening. Then your chrysanthemums will bloom 1-2 weeks earlier.

Korean chrysanthemums successfully winter in open ground if they are properly prepared. Such preparation consists of preserving root growth, if it has formed in late summer or autumn, and pruning plants to a height of 15 to 25 cm above the soil level immediately after flowering.

In mid-October, the bushes are mulched with pine needles, a 3 cm layer of straw and covered with humus or peat chips. When the temperature drops to 3-5°C (late October - early November), small spruce branches or oak branches or thorny bushes without leaves are placed on top of the snow-holding shelter. Keep in mind that fallen leaves cannot be used to cover chrysanthemums.

In the spring, in April, the additional cover is removed to prevent the young shoots from overheating. The ground under the bush is slightly loosened, and after the growth appears, the earthen mound is finally leveled.

If you decide to grow heat-loving, tall-growing, cutting and late dates flowering variety, it is better to dig them out of the ground in August-September and place them in a cool room (with the same temperature at which they were on the site). This could be the basement (only dry) of a country house, which is still better than a heated house. The humidity in it should be no more than 75%, and the temperature should not exceed 10°C.

If shoots of chrysanthemums stored in the basement begin to grow in winter, remove their upper part so that 2-3 nodes remain on the stem.

However, keep in mind that such shoots are very weak and cannot be used for cuttings.

Pre-plants dug up from big lump land, cleared of dried shoots and dying foliage. Place in boxes or pots filled with a fresh fertile mixture consisting of 2 parts humus, 1 part peat, 0.5 parts sand and 2 parts leaf soil (in extreme cases, it can be replaced with turf).

Gradually lowering the temperature in the storage area, bring it to a level of 5-6 ° C by November and leave it there until the end of February. During this period, plants are watered no more than two or three times a month.

But from March, chrysanthemums need light, and then they are transferred to a glazed veranda, a terrace with a higher temperature than in the basement (10-12 ° C). Only under this condition will the shoots be able to develop successfully and will not be elongated and will acquire a normal green color. 10 days after transferring the chrysanthemum, it is advisable to feed it with ammonium nitrate (at the rate of 30-50 g per 10 liters of water), and then with a full mineral fertilizer(20-30 g per 10 liters of water).

At the end of May - beginning of June, overwintered bushes are planted in open ground, increasing their feeding area by 1.5-2 times.

The main autumn flowers are chrysanthemums; planting and caring for these flowers in the open ground is not particularly difficult, but they require compliance with a number of conditions when growing, both in spring and autumn. Do not break the rules if you want to plant a flower from a bouquet or root a shoot, and to propagate the plant in the fall, read the basics. If you don't know how to form beautiful bush ball, then remember, you need pinching and pruning for the winter, or try to grow a special variety that will only need a single pinching...

Methods and timing of propagation of chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemums are annual - they are grown annually from seeds, and perennial - they can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, queen cells or dividing the bush. Chrysanthemums are planted in spring and autumn; each season has its own advantages:

Seeds are sown in open ground in May, and when the seedlings grow 10 cm, they are pinched. In autumn, chrysanthemums are already blooming

Cuttings are a very popular method of propagating chrysanthemums. You can grow a bush by cutting a cutting even from a bouquet. How to root a chrysanthemum shoot? A shoot about 6 cm long is rooted in soil consisting of sand and peat. The box covered with glass is kept in a cool place, no higher than +15°C. When the roots appear, the plants are planted in separate pots and then, with the end of frost, in open ground. If you purchased a cutting of the desired variety in the fall, do not plant it in the ground, but root it in a container and leave it in a cool room until spring

The mother plant is an overwintered chrysanthemum rhizome from which shoots will come; it can be purchased and planted in early spring

Dividing the bush is the only way to plant chrysanthemums in autumn, in which the plant is carefully dug up, the roots of the mother bush with shoots are divided into several copies with pruners and planted. This procedure should be carried out every two years to rejuvenate the plant.

Chrysanthemums, planting in spring and autumn
Please note that if you decide to grow chrysanthemums, planting and care in open ground differ in spring and autumn - when planting in spring, queen cells and cuttings take root better, but in autumn you can choose flowering bush and don’t be mistaken with its appearance.

During very frosty winters, choose Korean small-flowered hybrids of chrysanthemums, which are nicknamed oak - this species unites many varieties, zoned in middle lane and Moscow region. Large-flowered Indian chrysanthemums are tall - they grow up to a meter, and sometimes up to one and a half, but they are afraid of cold weather and freeze out easily.
For chrysanthemums, choose a sunny, preferably elevated place. Flowers do not like stagnant moisture, so waterlogged soil is drained by adding a layer of coarse river sand to the planting hole. The soil is preferably slightly acidic or neutral, light and loose. Too dense - mixed with peat, humus or rotted compost.

Chrysanthemum plants are placed every 30-50 cm. A shallow hole is dug so that the shoots on the mother plant or two-thirds of the cuttings are not covered with soil; when dividing the bush, this is approximately 40 cm. No more than 0.5 kg of humus or compost is added to the hole. If you overdo it with fertilizers, the flowers will be small, and only the foliage will be lush. It is recommended to water the roots with a stimulant (Epin, Kornevin, Heteroauxin), and then cover them with soil and compact it. Cuttings after spring planting It is advisable to cover it from the sun with spunbond for a couple of weeks.

When planting in autumn, the chrysanthemum bush must be watered abundantly; this will compact the soil, eliminating voids in it, due to which the roots can freeze. In addition, the flowers are cut off and a third of the stems are left so that the nutrients go to the development of the root system.

Chrysanthemums, care - watering, fertilizing, pruning, shelter
Chrysanthemum does not tolerate stagnant moisture, but it loves watering - without water, the stems become stiff and the flowers become smaller. At the same time, the flower does not tolerate sprinkling; it needs to be watered at the root, preferably with rain or settled water. After watering, the soil is loosened to avoid crusting.

In spring, chrysanthemums need nitrogen fertilizing for rapid growth; this can be done 2-3 weeks after planting. In the second half of summer, with the beginning of chrysanthemum budding, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied to ensure lush flowering and strengthen the plants before wintering. In the fall, you can feed the flowers a little with organic matter. Tall varieties need to be tied up, as their fragile stems can break.
The beginning of frost is a signal that it is time to leave for the winter. The trunks of chrysanthemums are cut off in late autumn, leaving 10-centimeter stumps and insulated with sawdust or leaves. The most delicate varieties are wrapped with a covering material on top and something flat is placed on top - for example, a plywood board - to protect them from moisture. Some gardeners dig up the roots and store them in a dark, cold cellar in winter to ensure the preservation of the variety.

How to create spherical chrysanthemum bushes
For flowers such as chrysanthemums, planting and caring in open ground is not all that is needed, and simple processing will allow you to create real masterpieces from them.

After winter, chrysanthemums are cut and pinched to obtain a beautiful spherical bush. There is a variety in which the bush itself grows in the form of a ball, without needing to be formed - this is the multiflora chrysanthemum, a low-growing bush up to 20 cm in height - when two pairs of leaves appear on the shoot, it is pinched, and then the ball forms itself.

Multiflora can be grown not only in a flowerbed, but also in a pot. But, at the end of flowering, the above-ground part of the plant is cut off and sent to rest - in a dark, cool place, for the whole winter. Periodically, dormant chrysanthemums are watered so that the roots do not dry out. In February, the first shoots appear, which means that the plant has woken up and it’s time to get it out of the basement. If a spherical chrysanthemum grows in a flowerbed, the stems need to be cut to 10 cm and covered with sawdust and non-woven material for the winter.
Multiflora loves soil rich in fertilizers; when planting, add more humus and wood ash to the hole. If you grow it in a pot, you can prepare the soil from 30% humus and 20% sand, the remaining 50% is turf soil.

You can also form a ball from other types of chrysanthemums; in small- and medium-flowered ones, the main shoot is pinched when it reaches 10-12 cm, then the grown ones are cut off to the same length side shoots, they then actively branch, pinching is done before the buds appear.
In large-flowered species of chrysanthemums, stems 15 cm long are cut, one or two pinchings are carried out no later than June, in addition, they are pinched - from mid-July, shoots emerging from the leaf axils are removed daily, and starting from August - every three days, then you can get a spherical bush with large flowers up to 10 cm in diameter.

In this article we will talk about the “samurai flower” - the chrysanthemum. We will talk about how to care for chrysanthemums, what kind of soil they like and how often the plant needs to be watered. Let's consider possible pests and teach you how to fight them. We'll tell you how to achieve luxurious chrysanthemum blooms.

Did you know? The chrysanthemum is depicted on coins and the national emblem of Japan. This flower is revered in the country so much that one of the highest awards is called the “Order of the Chrysanthemum”.

Chrysanthemum growing conditions

Chrysanthemum belongs to the genus of annual and perennial herbaceous plants, which includes 29 species. In nature, the flower grows in temperate and northern Asia.

When growing chrysanthemums, you need to follow the rules so that the plant blooms and looks healthy.

The soil

First, let's look at what kind of soil is needed for chrysanthemums.

Chrysanthemum is demanding on the soil, so you need to select a special substrate. The soil must be nutritious, loose and have good drainage properties. Thus, if you have heavy clay soils, then before planting the flower you need to carry out cultivation and add a sufficient amount of organic fertilizer. Otherwise, the chrysanthemum will not grow well and will not accumulate enough energy to survive the winter.

Did you know? Chrysanthemum is translated from Greek as “golden-flowered,” since many species have yellow flowers.

Lighting and humidity

Chrysanthemum is a flower of short daylight hours. The plant is planted so that the sun does not burn its petals at midday. The plant is light-loving, but the light should be diffused. If the flower is grown at home, then the flowerpot should be placed on the east or west side. Thus, the plant receives the necessary light and does not “burn out.”

Air humidity should be about 40-50%. Therefore, it only needs spraying in summer or winter (if the flower is kept in the house).

Watering and feeding chrysanthemums

Let's move on to watering and feeding the plant.

Although chrysanthemum is resistant to drought, this should not be taken as a rule. The flower needs to be watered often, but do not moisten the soil too much so that the roots are not affected by rot. Moisten the soil when it dries out. upper layer soil.

Important! When growing at home, there is no need to install a tray and add water there.

Chrysanthemums love additional feeding. The plant grows well in soils rich in minerals and humus, but the reserve useful substances does not last forever, so fertilizing is necessary and important. The plant loves organic fertilizers in the form of humus and compost. The plant also requires peat for normal growth and development.

Feeding stages

• First stage- after planting in the ground. They use organic matter to which superphosphate is added.
• Second phase– 2 weeks after the growing season. The third fertilizing is applied during the formation of buds (a mixture containing 25 g of phosphorus and 45 g of potassium is added).

Fertilizers for chrysanthemums.

Nitrogen-potassium. They are applied under small-flowered plants. Such fertilizers should contain more potassium than nitrogen (use a mixture containing 25 g of nitrogen, 25 g of phosphorus and 45 g of potassium).

Important! If the soil is oversaturated with nitrogen, the plant stretches, and the buds lose color and become faded.

Nitrogen. Used for tall chrysanthemums with large flowers. In this case, the dose of nitrogen in fertilizers increases (50 g of nitrogen, 25 g of phosphorus and 25 g of potassium). A lack of nitrogen fertilizers leads to the fact that the plant begins to wither, the leaves turn yellow and fall off, and the flowers become smaller. Nitrogen deficiency is determined by the pallor of the leaves (a healthy flower has a dark green color).

Phosphorus. This element is necessary both during flowering and during the growing season. Phosphorus is especially important for large plants.

Important! A large dose of phosphorus with a small dose of nitrogen increases the preservation of flowers in a bouquet.

Nuances of care

Every plant needs at least minimal care. Chrysanthemum also requires attention, which we will tell you about.

Transfer

Since chrysanthemum is an open ground plant, it needs frequent replanting, which is carried out at least once every 3 years.

Did you know? There is a city in China that is named after a flower - Chu Siena. In this country, the chrysanthemum is considered a symbol of autumn and is one of the “four noble ones”.

Let's start with autumn transplant plants. Transplantation into a pot is carried out during flowering, when the temperature at night drops below zero. The new “house” is filled with nutritious soil, and gravel or stones are placed at the bottom of the pot for good drainage.

Place on winter period choose a cool place (+3 ˚С will be the ideal temperature), with low lighting. When the chrysanthemum fades, you need to trim the flower, leaving about 15 cm of the stem, cover it with a paper bag and leave it like that until spring.

Important! When replanting, you need to be careful with the roots. The slightest damage is detrimental to the chrysanthemum.

Spring transplantation is carried out after warming, when the temperature at night does not drop below zero. To begin with, remove the bag from the flowerpot so that new shoots appear. When the chrysanthemum “wakes up”, it can be planted in open ground.

Trimming and pinching

For a plant, pruning and pinching are very important, since after these actions new lateral shoots are formed and the development of the root system improves.

Important! Small-flowered varieties of chrysanthemums are only pinched. No trimming is applied.

Pinching and pruning are techniques during which the upper part of the flower shoot is cut off. The difference between pinching and trimming is the size of the top that is cut off. In order to get a lush bush, you need to prune the chrysanthemum in the spring. Pruning is also carried out if new cuttings are needed. If cuttings are not required, pinch them.

Let's start with pinching. Large-flowered chrysanthemums are pinched when the plant reaches a height of 15 cm. Pinching involves removing the apical bud. Of all the shoots, 2-3 are left, from which all the side shoots and buds are removed, except for the apical one.
Scheme of chrysanthemum bud formation: 1 – spring bud; 2 – first crown; 3 – second crown; 4 – third crown

Pinching small-flowered plants involves the formation of a well-developed crown with a large number of shoots. To do this, trim the shoot above the 5th leaf. Shoots appear from the remaining buds, which are pinched above the 8th leaf. After pinching, we get a plant with a lush crown that produces about 30 inflorescences.

Important! After the first pinching, you need to water the plant with a solution of fertilizers that contain nitrogen.

Chrysanthemum pruning. Most modern chrysanthemum hybrids do not need to trim the buds, but the general rule is: the fewer buds, the larger the flowers. If you want to receive lush inflorescence large diameter- you need to cut off all the side shoots and buds, leaving one main one.

Wintering

If you do not replant the chrysanthemum into a pot for the winter, then you should take care of covering the plant. Let’s write down the “instructions” for preparation.

Preparing the plant for winter begins in early September. The plant is fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, which increase the frost resistance of the flower. After feeding, dry branches are cut off and checked for diseases (if the flower is sick, we treat it, and only then continue replanting). After processing and checking, the chrysanthemum is hilled up and the soil around the plant is leveled. Before planting chrysanthemums before winter, you need to shorten the stem so that no more than 10 cm remains.

The plant has been prepared, now it’s time to build a shelter. To do this, bricks are placed around the bush, and boards are placed on top of them. Such a structure will protect the plant from freezing and will not allow it to “suffocate.” In this case, it is important to follow the following rules: do not cover chrysanthemums until severe frosts, as they can rot from excess moisture; the shelter should not be very heavy or dense.

Another option (more complex in terms of execution) suggests the following: dig a trench 50 cm deep and 0.7 m wide; Dig up the chrysanthemum bushes (save a ball of soil on the roots) and place them in the trench. You need to cover everything on top with dry leaves or straw. When frosts begin, you need to cover the trench with metal or slate leaves and fill it with earth (the layer should be about 12-15 cm).

Important! The disadvantage of the second method is the inability to check the bushes. They can wake up earlier and sprout sprouts that begin to stretch towards the light. In this case, the plant will spend a lot of energy and may die.

Chrysanthemum propagation

Chrysanthemum can be propagated in three ways:

• cuttings
• dividing the bush,
• seeds.

We will tell you about these methods, and you decide which option suits you best.

Cuttings

The best option for cutting chrysanthemums is the period from March to the end of May. Early varieties cuttings are taken in March or April, later ones - in April or May. During intensive flower growth, it is often watered and fertilized once every 2 weeks. Cuttings are broken out (less often cut) from shoots that have at least 4 leaves (the cutting itself should also have 3-4 leaves).

Important! After pruning plants, the tool must be disinfected to prevent the transfer of diseases.

On the cut cuttings, the lowest leaf is removed, the others are saved. The shoot is planted in a substrate that “breathes” and allows moisture to pass through. To do this, use peat, perlite or a mixture of turf land, peat and sand (in equal parts). The soil layer must be at least 10 cm.

Before planting, it is moistened. Plant cuttings to a depth of 1.5 cm so that future roots receive maximum nutrients. When planting, you need to maintain the temperature around 17 ° C (higher temperatures can lead to rotting of the shoot). Don't forget about lighting, which is very important for photosynthesis. At night, 100 W lamps are used for additional illumination.

In the first week after planting, you need to regularly moisten the soil and air. Watering is carried out once every 2 days.

The rooting period of cuttings in January-March is 24-25 days, in April-May - about 18 days.

After rooting, the chrysanthemum plant is fed 2 times a week with complete mineral fertilizers.

Did you know? Chrysanthemum tea is very popular in Asia. Tea from this flower has healing properties and protects the body from cardiovascular diseases.

Dividing the bush

Chrysanthemums can be propagated by dividing the bush. To do this, dig up the plant immediately after flowering and thoroughly wash the roots. If the bush is very tall, it should be pruned so that the flower does not experience a lack of moisture (the longer the shoot, the more it evaporates).

The central lignified shoots are also removed. Next, a part from the peripheral part (you don’t need to use a knife) with developed buds is broken out and used for planting.

Before planting, you need to dig a hole of the same depth on which the mother bush “sat”. After planting, the young plant is watered abundantly.

Seeds

Let's move on to growing chrysanthemums from seeds at home. This method can be used to grow both annual and perennial plants.

You can sow the seeds directly into the ground, or you can sow them in a pot. When sowing in open ground, seeds are placed in holes (the distance between holes is 25 cm), 2-3 pieces at a time, watered warm water and sprinkle with earth. A week after sowing, you need to feed the plant with highly diluted liquid fertilizer. When young chrysanthemums grow to 10 cm in height, it is worth leaving the strongest one out of 2-3 plants. Planting in open ground is carried out in May.

The disadvantage of planting in open ground is the flowering time of chrysanthemums, which will only occur at the end of August.

When sowing in a pot, the start of “work” is postponed to the end of February. To do this, take shallow boxes, put drainage in the form of gravel on the bottom and fill them with earth (soil + peat + humus in equal amount). When sowing perennial chrysanthemums, seeds are left on the surface, annual seeds are placed at a depth of 5 mm.

After this, the ground is sprayed with water, covered with glass or film and placed in a warm place (+24-25 ˚С). Periodically, crops need to be checked, sprayed with warm water and ventilated. Young plants sprout 14 days after planting.

If the seedlings have sprouted densely, then after 3-4 “real” leaves appear, they are transplanted into cups or other, larger containers.

Important! Before transplanting, you need to moisten the soil so as not to damage the young roots of the plants.

Immediately after transplantation, the plants are sprayed with the Zircon preparation so that the chrysanthemum takes root better.

After the most difficult stage, caring for young plants comes down to maintaining the temperature at 16-18˚C.

Seedlings are planted in open ground in late May - early June.

This completes propagation by seeds. After transplanting into open ground, the care conditions are the same as for an adult plant.

Main pests, ways to combat them

Aphids appear very often on chrysanthemums, so this is the first pest on our list that we will help you deal with.

Aphids not only deprive the plant of its strength, but are also carriers of diseases, so it needs to be dealt with the sooner the better.

Traditional methods fight offer great amount“drugs” to combat aphids. Here are the most popular:

• decoction of dry onion leaves (used at any time, chilled);
• garlic tincture (crushed garlic is infused for 2 hours; the infusion is diluted with water and the plant is sprayed every 3-4 hours);

If traditional methods are not suitable for you, then you can use the following drugs:

Another unpleasant “guest” for your flower. It can only be seen with a magnifying glass, but small cobwebs on the plant can be seen with the naked eye.

These mites, like aphids, suck the juices of the plant. They bite through the cells and feed on the nutrients of the flower. With severe damage, the leaves lose color and dry out.

Important! Greatest harm spider mites applied in dry and hot weather.

Let's consider methods of pest control.

• Ultraviolet light. The tick does not tolerate ultraviolet radiation, so once a week is enough, using a homemade ultraviolet lamp, illuminate the flower for 2-3 minutes.
• Alcohol processing. The entire plant is wiped with 96% alcohol, applying a small layer of solution with cotton wool. The treatment is repeated after a week.

Traditional methods of dealing with ticks:

• garlic tincture (500 g of chopped garlic is poured into 3 liters of water and infused for 5 days in a dark place; 60 ml of infusion is diluted in 10 liters of water and 50 g of soap is added);
• chamomile tincture (1 kg of dry crushed chamomile pour 10 l hot water and insist for 14 hours; the solution is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:3 and soap is added);
• tincture of dandelion (0.5 kg of fresh leaves are infused for 2-4 hours in water at 40˚C; treatment is carried out after the leaves bloom and after flowering).

Remember! The mite may return to the plant, so after treating the chrysanthemum, you need to disinfect everything within a radius of 1 square meter. m from the flower.

These are small worms that cannot be seen with the naked eye. After damage by a nematode, black dead tissue appears on the plant in the form of spots, which are located between the veins of the leaf.

There are some varieties of chrysanthemums that are resistant to nematode damage:

• Sunflower,
• Katie Ernst,
• Bergatet.

To rid a plant of a nematode, you need to heat treat the plant with warm water at 45˚C. You also need to remove the affected parts of the plant mechanically.

If the previous measures did not help, then, unfortunately, the plant must be destroyed along with the soil in which it grew.

Important! When planting new plants, you should avoid land plots, where plant damage by nematodes was observed.

Diseases of chrysanthemums, their treatment

Gray mold is a fungus. When a flower is infected, brown spots appear on the leaves, which grow to the edges of the leaf. Rot can “migrate” from the leaves to the stem, forming light brown spots on it.

Ultimately, the flower turns into a wet brown mass and dies. All affected parts of the plant are covered with a dense gray coating of the fungus.

The main reason for the development of fungus is increased humidity in the air and soil. Rot most often develops in spring and autumn on cuts and “wounds” of the plant.

To get rid of gray rot, use the following fungicides:

• "Ronilan FL 0.15%",
• "Rovral 50 SP 0.15%",
• "Sumilex 50 NP 0.1%",
• "Fundazol 50 SP 0.1%."

Powdery mildew affects the plant in late July - August. This happens due to the accumulation of dew on the leaves, when using a large amount of nitrogen fertilizers or a lack of potassium.

To get rid of the disease, you need:

• ensure regular watering,
• ventilation and good lighting of the plant.
• remove diseased and dried leaves from the plant.

The following drugs can also be used:

• "Anvil 5 SK 0.06%",
• "Bayleton 25 SP 0.05%",
• "Triadimefon 25 SP 0.05%",
• "Sistan 12 CE 0.03%."

Important! Different varieties of chrysanthemums exhibit different sensitivity to chemicals, so you need to test spray a small area before fully treating the plant.

A microscopic fungus, infection of which manifests itself in the form of small yellowish-green spots on the leaves. Gradually, the color of the leaves changes to yellow with black dry spots, then dies.

The fungus curls the leaves down, causing the chrysanthemum to change its appearance.

To get rid of the disease, you need to feed the plant with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. The bush should be sprayed with fungicides (Fundazol or 1% colloidal sulfur). All affected leaves are torn off and burned outside the site.

When affected by root canker, growths form on the plant (very similar to tumors in animals). The causative agent of the disease lives in the soil. When a chrysanthemum is damaged, the cancer quickly grows and destroys the plant. There is no cure for this disease, so the bush is dug up and burned.

Important! It is necessary to disinfect the soil after the affected chrysanthemum before planting other plants.

To prevent cancer from affecting your plant, you need to carry out prevention. It is necessary to dig up the soil in the fall and remove all plant debris from the site. Also take care to improve drainage.

Chrysanthemum spotting, or septoria blight, appears as pale areas on the leaves. On back side orange spots appear on the leaf. Septoria blight is also caused by microscopic fungi that are dangerous to the plant.

To get rid of the disease, you need to remove and burn the affected leaves, spray with fungicides:

• "Polycarbacin (30-40 g/10 l)",
• “Chomecin (40 g/10 l)”,
• "Cuprozan (50 g/10 l)."

You can recommend this article to your friends!

59 once already
helped

Bushes purchased in the fall stored in cold greenhouses, trenches or basements. Like many other plants, flowers must go through a period of dormancy to gain strength for the new season. If the bushes are stored in an excessively warm room or if the winter is very warm, the chrysanthemums will sprout but may not bloom.

Planting and pinching shoots

When new shoots reach 8-10 cm in height, the bushes need to be dug up, divided and plant according to the pattern 50x50 or 60x60 cm. Depending on the biology, varieties are made different quantities pinching and at different times. This affects the height and number of side shoots.

First pinch carried out over the 5th and 7th leaves 7-10 days after planting chrysanthemums in the ground; second- 20 days after the first pinching and third- no later than 2-2.5 months before flowering. Chrysanthemums love rich soils, especially loamy and sandy loam, and grow very poorly on sandy and peaty soils.

Features of different varieties

Of course, the plant variety and the conditions in which the bushes grew in the previous season are important. How the land was more fertile, and the better the care, the greater the chance that chrysanthemums will bloom profusely. Costs pay attention to the roots: plants with a rod system produce fewer flower stalks than those with a fibrous system. Some varieties, for example Polish or Dutch selection, there is no need to pinch, since they are genetically endowed with such characteristics as short stature and compactness of the bush.

We use agrochemicals

Many gardeners use growth retardant reagents chrysanthemums On next year after the completion of the effect of the drug, these varieties restore their properties. So be mindful of the variety you buy. Flowers also need to be fed correctly: nitrogen fertilizers applied 2-3 weeks after planting at the rate of 1 tbsp. l. fertilizers per 10 liters of water. And after 2-3 weeks they are fed complex fertilizers. Plus, it is advisable to hill up chrysanthemum bushes, then good growth will grow. root system and the next year the plant produces a sufficient number of shoots.

Chrysanthemum is a flower with a very unusual history. Its exact homeland is unknown, there is debate about where this wonderful flower came to us, some say from Japan, others say from China, and others mention all of East Asia.

However, be that as it may, all this does not negate the fact that the chrysanthemum is stunningly beautiful, so beautiful that in Japan the highest award is called the Order of the Chrysanthemum, and one emperor ordered a seal with its image.

Perhaps for this history and its beauty, growing it at home is not so easy, since many factors will influence its beauty and health. All this and much more is written below.

Chrysanthemum home - description

Chrysanthemum domestica has a short stature. This is due to the fact that it is grown artificially in greenhouses, where its growth is stopped with special equipment for decorative purposes.

Some have had to deal with the fact that when they bought a cutting and tried to grow it, they ended up with a large bush that looked more like a garden bush than a home bush. In this regard, it is worth saying a few words about how to choose the right homemade chrysanthemums in pots.

First of all, take a close look at the appearance of the plant. It should be strong, dense, the leaves should be well developed, and there should be no insects on the trunk. This will allow her to quickly get used to home conditions. This way it will not become infected and will not affect the growth of other already established flowers.

Which varieties are suitable for growing at home?

Caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot at home is particularly difficult, but if you follow the basic nuances, the plant will delight you with long, lush flowering. Chrysanthemum flowers are often used to create original bouquets. They look great alone or as part of a flower arrangement.

The variety of varieties and varieties will make a bouquet of chrysanthemums a real surprise, allowing you to get away from standard roses and gerberas.

Recently, it has also become popular to give fresh flowers in a pot. The advantages are obvious: a longer flowering period and the possibility of further breeding. At the same time, it often turns out that after the phase of vegetative activity the plant is considered dead. To prolong the life of your pet and enjoy it for a long time beautiful flowers, you can use the advice in our article and grow a full-fledged indoor plant.

dachnaya-zhizn.ru

Home varieties

Of course, ordinary garden crops will not feel comfortable at home. They are too big and cold-loving for this. At the same time, breeders have developed enough varieties of chrysanthemums, the cultivation of which is quite possible in apartment conditions.

Before purchasing, be sure to check this point with the seller, and also take care in advance to create suitable conditions for your pet, which will be discussed a little later.

Varieties of varieties and classification of chrysanthemums

The most common and numerous variety of this flower is the Korean chrysanthemum. There are many varieties of it, and most have nothing in common with each other. The classification is mainly based on the configuration of leaves and inflorescences. Korean varieties are most often used for growing at home.

Indian chrysanthemum is also very popular; it has more refined shapes and the size of its inflorescences. Indoor varieties are distinguished by a relatively high stem on which a large flower (up to 15 cm in diameter) is located. Most varieties of Indian chrysanthemum are grown as garden plants.

Features of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum multiflora is an almost perfect ball with small-sized inflorescences. A characteristic feature is the shape of the flower, as well as numerous buds and active flowering, which lasts from a month to two. After the flowers fall, you need to trim the stems, then bring the pot into the shelter. These shapes can be used to decorate country cottage area, but for wintering it’s better to find enough warm room with good ventilation.

Zembla chrysanthemum is more in demand as garden culture, but it can also be found among descriptions of indoor plants. Characteristics This plant will have fairly large inflorescences, petals rolled into an incomplete tube and a wide range of colors. The most common will be yellow chrysanthemums, but among selection varieties There are even greenish and blue flowers.

Classification of chrysanthemums

General classification of chrysanthemums:

• If the size of the inflorescences is less than 80 mm, such varieties are called small-flowered. Large-flowered plants, accordingly, the diameter is much larger.
• Based on the shape of the inflorescences, they are distinguished between blanket and double-row, double and semi-double. You can find a general name - globular chrysanthemum, which combines several groups with round voluminous inflorescences.
• According to the flowering period, early, middle and late flowering specimens are distinguished. This classification is important if you also want to collect seeds for further growing flowers. U late flowering varieties They, as a rule, do not have time to ripen, so they are not suitable for planting.
• The height of the stem also classifies chrysanthemums into border (up to 30 cm) and medium (up to 50 cm in height).
• The shape of the petals and their arrangement can be chamomile-like, with a pronounced core (usually of a contrasting color). Double flowers do not have this feature, but can attract attention with petals of different lengths and configurations.

It is impossible to describe all the varieties of this flower, much less indicate them all. possible options colors “Classic” white chrysanthemums are not inferior in popularity to roses and tulips, and a variety of rainbow mixes will cheer you up during the cold season.

Popular varieties

Indoor chrysanthemum is more compact in size; when forming a bush, it forms attractive spherical trees. In addition to the purely visual effect, this plant is famous for its positive energy and in many beliefs has earned the fame of a family amulet.

The chrysanthemum has the greatest popularity and universal love in eastern cultures, especially for Japan. There this plant is grown everywhere and is a symbol of wealth, love and prosperity. To successfully grow the Japanese version of a lucky horseshoe at home, you must adhere to certain requirements.

uplady.ru

What to look for when purchasing

Chrysanthemums are presented in such quantities on the markets that choosing just one bush is not easy. But try to be very careful, because success directly depends on how picky you are.

Never buy chrysanthemums with fully blossomed inflorescences - specimens whose inflorescences are no more than half blossomed will bloom better and longer.

The bushes should be fully formed, powerful, the shoots should be woody below, and the leaves should be healthy. Please note that yellowing of foliage and spots on leaves and shoots are unacceptable.

Light mode for potted chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are crops that require a short daylight hours to bloom abundantly. But this does not mean that they are content with shaded locations.

During the entire period active development, including flowering, chrysanthemums should be provided with the sunniest and brightest locations, where the plants will not suffer from midday rays or will be shaded from them by neighboring potted plants.

In winter, chrysanthemums are kept in dark rooms (with the exception of specimens that continue to bloom, which are transferred to the brightest locations of the rooms and are planned to be thrown away after flowering)

Temperature conditions

Potted chrysanthemums (both garden and indoor) love cool weather, especially at the flowering stage. These are not the most heat-resistant crops, which are comfortable only in typical autumn conditions. The higher the air temperature, the faster the inflorescences fade and the less chrysanthemums produce new buds.

That is why even miniature houseplants during flowering it is better to keep on fresh air. Optimal temperature regime for potted chrysanthemums - from 10-15 to 17-20 degrees Celsius or a little more.

If chrysanthemums are in temperatures above 21-22 degrees during the flowering period, they will not be able to set buds normally for flowering next year, and even a cold winter will not give the expected effect.

www.botanichka.ru

Landing

What to do with a chrysanthemum in a pot - we’ll talk about this a little later. First, let's figure out how to plant it correctly. The material from the mother plant is cut with a sharp knife. You cannot break off the petioles, otherwise they may not be accepted.

The bush will grow beautiful and lush only if it has a sufficiently developed root system. Therefore, at the very beginning, the petioles are planted in a very large container.

You need to drill several holes at the bottom of the pot for drainage. Garden soil mixed with some organic fertilizer is poured into it.

The question of how to plant a chrysanthemum in a pot comes down to proper preparation soil. Before backfilling, the soil mixture must be subjected to heat treatment. Chrysanthemum is a rather delicate plant that is easily infected by various types of viral and fungal diseases.

• The cut petioles are carefully buried in the ground.
• After 20-25 days, roots form on them.
• As soon as this happens, they should be carefully transferred, along with a lump of earth, into a small flower pot.
• In this case mature plant will take the form of a beautiful lush bouquet.

The same soil is poured into a new pot. That is, they mix nutritious soil with organic fertilizer. You can also use fertilized peat.

www.syl.ru

Watering

The purchased chrysanthemum must be watered carefully. On the one hand, this plant is quite demanding when it comes to watering. On the other hand, excess moisture can cause root rot or the development of fungal diseases.

To prevent this from happening, you need to ensure good drainage: There must be a hole in the pot, and a layer of gravel or moss at the bottom. This will help remove all excess moisture from the pot.

• On average, chrysanthemums are watered no more than 2 times a week. You just need to make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out.
• Spraying the leaves plays an important role; it helps prevent dehydration.
• Dried leaves must be removed promptly. And healthy leaves are regularly cleaned of dust.

Cannot be used for watering plain water from the tap. You need to pass it through a filter and leave it for a couple of days. The water should not be cold, otherwise the plant is at risk of disease.

sadovod.guru

Air humidity

Chrysanthemum prefers high humidity air. Therefore, the plant should be sprayed regularly. The frequency of spraying is one (two) times a day. If the grower simply does not have a spray bottle, then you can simply place a saucer or jar of water next to your home plantings.

Protection from dust and dirt

Chrysanthemum leaves should be regularly wiped to remove accumulated dust and other contaminants. This can be done with a regular damp cloth. Some gardeners place the pot in the bathtub and gently wash away any accumulated dust using a shower head.

onwomen.ru

Caring for chrysanthemums in a pot, applying fertilizers

Fertilization is a mandatory measure, because chrysanthemum requires a lot of nutrients for its development. Different additives should be used at different times of the year. They can be divided into:

• nitrogen;
• potassium;
• phosphorus.

Nitrogen fertilizers are used during active flower growth, that is, in spring. These additives are important for the proper formation of shoots and active growth of leaves.

In the summer, they stop fertilizing chrysanthemums with nitrogen fertilizers, since at this time the active growth of the plant stops and preparation for flowering begins.

In mid-August, start feeding potassium supplements with some phosphorus. Closer to October, everything should be the other way around: more phosphorus with the addition of potassium. The plant needs these additives for lush flowering and successful wintering.

Chrysanthemum in a pot, care after flowering

How to care for home chrysanthemums in pots after flowering? When all the buds dry out, they should be removed. Also cut off any dead or damaged branches.

• After this, gradually reduce watering and place the flower in the place where it will winter.
• If you want to achieve double flowering, then think about it in advance.
• In any case, you will have to organize dormant conditions in which the plant will gain strength.

After this, you can expose the flower to heat ahead of time, increase watering, and also adjust changes in daylight hours. All these measures can make the chrysanthemum bloom in late February-early March.

Chrysanthemum in a pot: care at home in winter

How to care for a chrysanthemum in a pot winter time of the year? At this time, the chrysanthemum does not need to be watered heavily, and it should not be fertilized at all. Place the flower in a room with an air temperature of no more than 5 degrees. Such conditions may occur in an unheated storage room or cellar.

Some gardeners believe that indoor chrysanthemums need to be pruned for the winter, as is done with garden flower. But many experts consider this an unnecessary measure, since an indoor flower is not threatened by frosts and other vicissitudes, so there is no need to be afraid that high branches will take too much strength from the flower.

Before wintering, it is advisable to treat the chrysanthemum with antimicrobial agents. They will eliminate the possibility of infecting the flower with pests, which, unlike plants, do not sleep in winter.

How to care for a homemade chrysanthemum in a pot in early spring?

In spring, plants begin to wake up and grow actively. Chrysanthemums in a pot also do this, how to care for them at this time? First of all, you should increase watering of the flower, since it needs moisture for growth. At the same time, you should not make a swamp in the flowerpot. Abundant watering should not turn into a “bay”.

Next, you should think about replanting the plant. This work usually performed in the spring. If the plant is young, then you should choose a larger pot for it than the previous one. For an adult plant, you can leave the same container.

Prepare the soil for chrysanthemums yourself, since store-bought substrates are universal and are rarely suitable for this particular flower. To prepare the soil, take:

• universal primer;
• peat;
• perlite;
• sand.

Mix all the ingredients so that the soil is loose, but remains nutritious. Pour it into a flowerpot on top of the drainage, which should be mandatory. It eliminates the possibility of water stagnation in the flowerpot.

Replant chrysanthemum better method transshipment. This way its roots are less damaged. After transplantation, the plant is watered a little and placed in a well-lit place.

There is no need to apply fertilizers in the first month after transplantation. They will only harm a plant that is not properly rooted. But after a month you can already water the chrysanthemum with nitrogen fertilizers. They are diluted according to the instructions, which are necessarily given with the drug.

When the chrysanthemum takes root and grows a little, you need to cut off the tops of its branches. This is called “pinching” and is done so that the plant begins to send out lateral shoots. Thus, a lush bush will be formed. By autumn it will be covered in color and will look very beautiful. You can pinch flowers twice: in early autumn and early summer. Then they begin to prepare the chrysanthemum for flowering.

roza-i-fialka.ru

How to stimulate chrysanthemum flowering

If a flower lover receives a gift from friends, it is most often a chrysanthemum in a pot. Home care is aimed at prolonging flowering. Chrysanthemums are perennials, and they can bloom for several years in a row if they accumulate good energy reserves. A period of winter dormancy with sufficient light, water and fertilizer will increase the plant's ability to produce new buds.

A simple technique helps stimulate the plant to long and abundant flowering. Here are the basic techniques:

• it is necessary to control the light regime of the chrysanthemum. Good vegetative growth requires natural conditions, that is, 9 - 10 hours of darkness. Draping the plant with black fabric creates the illusion of “night” in city apartments, where electricity is often turned on;
• Water occasionally and generously. The soil should be moist, but not soggy;
• before flowering, organize the light regime according to the standard 12 hours of darkness - 12 hours of light;
• provide the plant with a cool atmosphere during the period of bud release. Homemade chrysanthemums in pots need a temperature of 13 - 16 ° C to form a flower;
• do not forget to pinch the stems;
• remove all small buds and flower buds, leaving only the large ones, one bud on each stem in the center. This should be done when the buds are still small;
• When the flowers open as much as possible, choose the most optimal light position for the pot. The chrysanthemum needs to be well watered throughout the flowering period. This way the flowers will last longer;
• replanting the chrysanthemum in a larger pot will give more space to the roots. The plant will be able to accumulate more nutrients and moisture, which ensures intense flowering. The optimal pot size is 1.8 liters.

The chrysanthemum needs to be well watered throughout the flowering period.

In the spring, as soon as the chrysanthemum produces green shoots, you need to change the soil in the pot. To do this, carefully remove the plant, put clean soil in the pot, place the chrysanthemum in it and water it. During the same period, it is advisable to feed the chrysanthemum with fertilizer. It is better to use nitrogen agents before flowering, and nitrate ones at the time of flowering.

If you have complete information on how to care for a chrysanthemum in a pot, the plant will develop normally and delight the owner with luxurious flowers for several years in a row.

koffkindom.ru

How to replant chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums, which are given to us in bouquets, are very easy to root. The desire to plant and grow this miracle on your windowsill or on your plot is commendable, but here it is important to follow correct agricultural techniques.

Instructions

1. If the chrysanthemum is already sitting in your pot, then replanting it in open ground will allow it to take on its natural size and shape. Preparations for replanting a chrysanthemum should begin with its flowering. After flowering, chrysanthemums should be cut off all shoots longer than 10 cm and leave only short petioles. The pot with the plant should be put in a cool room with a temperature of 2-4°C for the winter.
2. With the onset of spring, new shoots begin to grow and are transferred to a warm room. It is necessary to maintain alternating temperatures for chrysanthemums, otherwise it will not bloom. This time is optimal for transplanting the bush into fresh soil in a pot or flowerbed, as well as for rooting shoots. To root flowers from a bouquet, cuttings that have taken root in water should be cut off at the top, leaving 10 cm, and planted in a pot.
3. Young plants should be replanted every year in the spring, older ones every two years, and it is better to divide the bushes during replanting. The main thing is that fresh soil for the bush should not be acidic; otherwise, chrysanthemums are not particularly picky about soil. Add a little sand and humus to ordinary garden soil. During transplantation, the tops of young shoots are pinched, and lignified ones are cut off so that the bush is more branched and even.
4. Before watering, the lump of earth should be moistened and all dried branches and roots should be removed. Pour drainage into the bottom of the pot, insert the bush in the center and sprinkle with new soil on all sides. In order not to replant the chrysanthemum into a larger pot, divide the bush and plant part of the bush back, of course, adding fresh soil. Afterwards, water the bushes and keep the soil moist, as chrysanthemum loves water.

www.kakprosto.ru

Trimming

Chrysanthemums are pruned twice a year. This is done in spring and summer in order to form a beautiful crown of the bush. The first pruning is done in the spring after planting or replanting a flower. The growing point at the top of the shoots is removed from the plant.

• The side shoots immediately begin to grow actively.
• Before our eyes, the chrysanthemum turns into a lush, dense bush.
• About a month later, this procedure is repeated.
• If you grow a spherical variety of chrysanthemums, then it is not necessary to pinch it.
• A lush dome-shaped bush is varietal feature these types of chrysanthemum.

The chrysanthemum is pruned again in the fall, after flowering. First of all, dry, diseased and rotten shoots are cut off to keep the rest of the bush healthy. The remaining shoots are also shortened, since the plant will overwinter in spartan conditions - without watering, fertilizing and light. This will make it easier for him to survive during hibernation.

flowersadvice.ru

Propagating chrysanthemums in a pot

Chrysanthemum propagates in 3 ways:

1. By cuttings.
2. Dividing the bush.
3. Seeds.

1. Cuttings

After a rest period, a month before cutting, move the container with the chrysanthemum to a warm, illuminated place (from +10° to +12°).

When 4-6 leaves form on the shoots, you can begin cuttings:

1. It is better to take a high container, with the expectation that the cuttings will need to be covered for the first time.
2. Prepare the substrate: humus, garden soil and sand, in this ratio - 1:2:0.5, taking into account that the top layer of sand should be 2-3 cm. Or take a mixture of perlite and sand, 1:1.
3. Place drainage at the bottom of the container - expanded clay, pebbles, etc. Pour soil, and on top - a layer of sand of at least 2 cm. Water.
4. Cut off the tops of the stems 10 cm high, making the lower cut under the internode. Put away lower leaves.
5. Dip the cutting in a growth stimulator. And deepen the cuttings 1.5-2 cm into moistened sand at an angle of 45° with a gap of 5 cm between them.
6. Cover the container with glass or film and place the container with the cuttings in a bright, warm place (t from +17° to +20°).
7. Make sure that the soil in the container is always moist by spraying it daily.
8. Cuttings take root in 2 to 4 weeks. As soon as the cuttings take root, as evidenced by the growth that appears on them, the film must be removed.

After 2-3 weeks, chrysanthemums can be planted in pots.

2. Dividing the bush

Simple and more reliable way chrysanthemum propagation is the division of the bush during the period of intensive shoot growth.

From one bush of an overwintered plant you can get up to 6 divisions:

1. Water the bush before dividing.
2. Pour drainage and a mixture consisting of garden and turf soil, sand and humus into a new pot. Pour the mixture into 2/3 of the container.
3. Remove the chrysanthemum from the old container, carefully separate the young shoots so that each separated part retains the root.
4. Place the young shoot in a pot and carefully, trying not to damage the roots, cover it with soil. Do not compact the soil.
5. After transplanting, carefully water the shoots, preferably with a spray bottle, so as not to accidentally wash away the soil.
6. Place the container with the shoots in a bright, warm (but not more than +20°) place. Shade from the sun.

After 2-3 weeks, the divisions will take root well.

3. Propagation by seeds

Determine the sowing time by the time of flowering:

1. Treat the sowing container with a solution of potassium permanganate.
2. Pour drainage and a mixture of garden soil, sand and humus, 2:0.5:1, into the container.
3. Moisten the substrate and place the seeds on top. The seeds are not sprinkled with soil, as they need light to germinate. Or sprinkle thin layer light soil.
4. Cover the container with glass or plastic film and put it in a bright room (t from +10° to +15°).
5. Moisten the soil only with a spray bottle.
6. After 7-12 days, shoots will appear. Remove the cover.
7. After the formation of 4-6 true leaves, pick the plant with a gap of 5-10 cm between them.

A month and a half before flowering, plant chrysanthemums in a permanent place.

vogorode.com

Diseases and pests

Chrysanthemum is a late-flowering perennial, characterized by high immunity to diseases and pests. However, she can also get sick.

In order not to put flowers at risk, it is necessary to carefully monitor their condition and take preventive measures in a timely manner. And if it was not possible to avoid the disease, then it is important to know which methods of control are most effective.

Fungal diseases of chrysanthemums

Fungal infections of chrysanthemums are most often caused by poor air circulation, high soil acidity, excess nitrogen fertilizer and high temperature.

Leaf spot, or septoria, of chrysanthemums

The disease manifests itself in the form of spots on the leaves, which initially have yellow, and then gradually become dark brown and black (and may increase in size). The lower leaves are infected first.

Prevention and treatment

1. The first step is to cut off and destroy the affected leaves.
2. For prevention purposes, it is necessary to regularly remove and destroy the remains of dead plants in the garden.
3. If the disease spreads, it is worth using fungicides.

Rust

The infection appears as pale areas on the surface of the leaves, as well as powdery orange spots on the undersides. Severely affected plants become weak and no longer flower properly.

Prevention and treatment

1. Urgent removal of affected leaves.
2. Thinning bushes to ensure better ventilation.
3. When watering, avoid getting moisture on the plants.
4. If the disease has seriously spread, you need to switch to the use of fungicides.

Wilting chrysanthemum leaves

The first symptoms of Fusarium wilt are yellowing and browning of leaves. Infected plants are stunted and often fail to flower. The fungus penetrates plants from the soil through the roots and blocks the flow of water into the chrysanthemum tissue.

Prevention and treatment

1. Removal and destruction of all infected plant parts.
2. Planting wilt-resistant varieties.
3. If there is already Fusarium fungus in the soil, wilting, then the soil pH should be increased to 6.5 - 7.0.

Powdery mildew

The leaves are covered with a whitish ash-gray powdery coating. Fungal spores love a humid atmosphere; these are favorable conditions for their growth and reproduction.

Prevention and treatment

1. Removing affected plant material.
2. Use of fungicides.

To combat fungal infections, copper oxychloride and Bordeaux mixture, Fundazol, and 1% colloidal sulfur are most often used.

Viral diseases of chrysanthemums

Of all the viral diseases, chrysanthemums are the most dangerous mosaic.

Plants infected with the virus have a stunted appearance and yellowed foliage. Infected chrysanthemums are stunted and produce small flowers.

Prevention

1. Removal and destruction of affected plants.
2. Timely weed control.

Pests of chrysanthemums

Leaf nematode

Nematodes are unsegmented roundworms that are barely visible to the naked eye. They overwinter in soil or in infected plant material.

Chrysanthemums affected by the nematode become covered with yellow-brown spots. The pest first damages the lower leaves and gradually spreads up the stem. The yellow-brown spots on the leaves eventually merge and cover the entire leaf, which dies, withers and falls off.

Control measures

1. Removal of contaminated plant material along with surrounding soil.
2. In spring, the spread of nematodes will be prevented by mulching.
3. When watering, avoid getting water on the leaves.
4. Foliar sprays containing insecticidal soap are quite effective.

Aphids and spider mites

These insidious insects harm many types of indoor and garden flowers.

Aphids feed on the sap of young plant tissues and infect the underside of leaves, buds and flowers. Massive spread of the pest can cause the death of chrysanthemums.

Spider mites spread in hot and dry weather; they suck out the sap from plants, causing the chrysanthemum to dry out, the flowers become discolored, and the leaves fall off.

Control measures

1. Spider mites and aphids can be removed from the surface of plants with a strong stream of water during watering.
2. The use of insecticides and a copper-soap solution (20 g of copper sulfate and 200 g of green soap per 10 liters of water) is effective.

Now you know how to protect chrysanthemums from dangerous diseases and pests. Don’t forget to properly care for your plants – and they will certainly make your flower garden attractive.

www.ogorod.ru

Queen of autumn - chrysanthemum (in myths and legends)

Many legends are dedicated to this wonderful flower. One of them says that an evil dragon decided to steal the Sun from people; but when he grabbed him, the dragon severely burned his paws. Out of anger, the dragon began to tear and trample the fireball. The sun sparks that fell on the Earth turned into white chrysanthemums...

Chrysanthemum flowers seem to connect the light cold of winter and the warm breath of summer. She is rightfully considered the queen of autumn. This unpretentious autumn flower is truly of royal origin.

After all, once in the East luxurious feasts were held in his honor; the image of a chrysanthemum served as a symbol of nobility, happiness and was considered sacred. Many poems, myths and legends are dedicated to him. Today at oriental beauty fans are no less than those of recognized queens - roses and orchids.

History of a flower

It is not known exactly how ancient the history of this flower is, but archaeologists have found images of chrysanthemums on fragments of marble and pottery, in the ornaments of ancient buildings, in patterns of oriental porcelain and even on ancient coins.

• Some claim that the birthplace of the flower is Japan, others say China, and others say East Asia.
• In Japan, the homeland of the chrysanthemum, its image is included in the national emblem; it is a symbol of the sun.
• The Order of the Chrysanthemum is the highest award of this country.

The name of the flower, which comes from the Greek words “chrysos” - golden and “antemos” - flower (golden flower), is not accidental; the ancestors of the chrysanthemum were exclusively yellow.

In Japanese it is called "kiku" - the sun. On the day of "kiku" in the imperial palace, the courtiers admired flowers, drank special chrysanthemum wine, listened to music and wrote poetry.

The chrysanthemum was considered a symbol high position. Only the emperor and members of his family had the right to wear clothes made of fabric with a chrysanthemum pattern. Breaking the law was punishable death penalty. In the 18th century, the plant was brought to France and it conquered all of Europe.

Chrysanthemum in the East

In Japan, colorful chrysanthemum festivals are held annually, where human-sized dolls are dressed in historical clothes made from chrysanthemum flowers. On this day, the Japanese drink sake with the petals of this wonderful flower - a symbol of happiness and longevity. Participants of the holiday pass cups of drink to each other, wishing them many years of happy life.

This flower is no less revered in China, which is also considered the birthplace of the chrysanthemum. Here he personifies loyalty. The legend says that in the hoary old days, when a cruel emperor ruled China, there was a rumor that a chrysanthemum grew on a certain island, from the juice of which an elixir of life could be prepared.

But only a person with a pure heart should pick a flower, otherwise the plant will lose its miraculous power. 300 boys and girls were sent to the island. It’s just unknown whether they found that plant or not. No one returned, the Mikado died, and the youth founded a new state on that island - Japan.

Legends

The 9th day of the 9th month is dedicated to the chrysanthemum in China and Japan, and the flower picked on this day is endowed magical power. In Vietnam, chrysanthemums represent spiritual purity and clarity of mind. In Italy, the chrysanthemum is a symbol of love; a symbol of deep silent sadness; symbol of death.

• In England, chrysanthemums are not so much flowers for bouquets, but funeral flowers. In Europe, white chrysanthemums are considered mourning flowers and a symbol of deep sadness. Wreaths of them are laid on graves in France.
• Perhaps that is why there is a sad legend about their origin. “The poor woman’s son died. She decorated the grave that was dear to her with wildflowers collected along the way until the cold weather set in. Then she remembered the bouquet of artificial flowers that her mother bequeathed as a guarantee of happiness.
• She placed this bouquet on the grave, watered it with tears, prayed, and when she raised her head, she saw a miracle: the entire grave was covered with living chrysanthemums. Their bitter smell seemed to indicate that they were dedicated to sadness.”

Chrysanthemum in Europe

The chrysanthemum appeared in Europe in 1676. It was brought from Japan to England and made by the Dutchman Reede. However, the French believe that chrysanthemums first appeared in Marseille in 1789 and were brought by the French traveler Pierre Blankshire.

• However, the plants they brought were similar to daisies and did not make much of an impression.
• Only after 1829, when the French gardener Berne obtained beautiful varieties as a result of experiments with sowing chrysanthemum seeds, did the public become interested in them.
• Over time, this flower could be seen in almost every English garden - chrysanthemums tolerated English fogs perfectly and bloomed even before the onset of light frosts.
• During the celebration of Schiller's birthday in 1859, the bust of the writer was surrounded by thousands of chrysanthemums, the most diverse in color and shape that then existed.

www.florets.ru

Superstitions and chrysanthemum.

Chrysanthemum balances the energy of logic and intuition, reason, will and feelings. Fills you with peace and self-confidence.

Protects against unnecessary hesitation and doubt. Develops confidence and the missing qualities of the sex: for men - fortitude, for women - tenderness and charm. Brings order to thoughts and emotions. Helps you feel like a real man or a real woman and change your sexual orientation. Develops tolerance and friendliness. For public places. For active, active, creative individuals. Helps strong personalities get along with each other.

Protects against unwanted changes in well-being. Brings balance to nervous system, kidneys, cardiovascular system.

The ancient Chinese claimed that chrysanthemum has wonderful property prolong human life. According to ancient legend, a certain Taoist monk lived about 700 years, and only because he drank dew from chrysanthemum flowers in the morning. Maybe if we follow his example, we too will be able to maintain our youth?

The petals of chrysanthemum flowers are very different: white, pink, golden yellow. They have one thing in common - they are all rich in minerals, so necessary for the normal functioning of the human body. It should be borne in mind that odorless flowers do not have healing properties.

Be sure to add fragrant petals of chrysanthemum flowers to traditional green tea. It is considered to be extremely useful for any infectious disease. Ancient Chinese doctors recommended this tea in case of high fever. They assured that it improves vision, removes toxins from the body, and is good for the liver.

Overheating, colds, dizziness, unstable blood pressure - all these diseases, according to them, can be easily cured with the help of chrysanthemum flower petals. You can believe this, but you can treat it with a fair amount of skepticism. However, even in our time traditional healers in case of kidney failure, it is advised to eat ice cream, in which several fresh chrysanthemum petals are placed.