How to make a taiga ax drawing. How to make a good ax handle for an ax - step-by-step instructions and drawings

Owners of a country estate are often interested in the question of how to make an ax with their own hands. This tool is necessary in any household - it is used both for splitting firewood and for constructing outbuildings. But not all commercially available tools work well and are reliable. And some of them can even be dangerous during operation.

An ax is necessary for splitting firewood and for constructing outbuildings.

Most owners own country houses They prefer to do everything with their own hands, including the construction of buildings and many tools necessary for the household. Homemade items are often much more reliable and convenient than those sold in stores.

How to make an ax with your own hands

To make an axe, you need to act in a certain order. The first step is to make the ax handle.

The ax handle is the handle of the tool. The performance will depend on its length and especially its shape. A simple stick with round- holding it is uncomfortable, the hand is too tense and will quickly get tired. It would be more practical to make an ax handle of a slightly curved shape, with an oval cross-section and several straight sections. Its tail should be made wider and tilted down. This makes it possible to more securely hold the ax in your hands while working.

Step-by-step production of an ax handle:

It is better to use maple wood to make an ax handle.

1. How to select and prepare material.

To make a durable part for an ax, it is better to take birch, oak, maple or ash. Traditionally, wood harvesting for ax handles is carried out in autumn time, even before frost sets in. The selected logs should be stored for drying in the attic, in a dry place without light. The blanks are stored in this way for at least a year, and experts recommend drying such wood for up to five years.

If, while chopping wood, the ax handle suddenly breaks, a temporary version made from undried wood can also help out. Fresh wood will help if you need to chop firewood urgently, but after a while it dries out. After the handle decreases in volume, it begins to “walk” freely in the eye of the ax and is no longer suitable for work.

2. How to make a template

For ease of use, you can make a template. Cardboard and thick paper are suitable for it. With its help, the contours of the designed part are transferred to the surface of the material, after which it is easier to manufacture the tool with the dimensions required. If you already have an ax with a good, comfortable handle and want to make a spare one in case this one breaks, you can use this as a sample. Press the handle of the tool onto a sheet of cardboard and trace it with a pencil. Then the template is cut along the contour with scissors.

3. How to make a block blank

For the preparation you will need dry material. You need to cut a block out of it, movements are made along the fibers. The length for the workpiece should be 10 cm larger size, defined for finished product. Width of the front part of the workpiece intended for the device in the eye metal part, should be several millimeters larger than it.

A template is placed on both sides of the block and the contours are transferred to the wood. The template is positioned as follows: an allowance of 1 cm is left in front of the block, and about ninety millimeters in the tail part. An allowance is required in the shank so that the handle does not split when inserting the blade. After the tool is ready and assembled, the allowance is cut off.

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How to carve an ax handle

To bring the ax handle to the right sizes, transverse cuts are made in the upper and lower parts of the block. Choose the depth so that the bottom of the cut does not reach the contour intended for the ax handle by about 2-3 mm. Excess wood is chipped off along the cuts using a chisel. Then sawing with a rasp is carried out right up to the contour line. They can also round corners, bends, transitions wooden part. For final sanding use sandpaper.

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Treatment with special compounds

The wood for the ax must be impregnated with drying oil.

When making an ax yourself, you need to provide wood good impregnation waterproof compounds. Among them the best are considered linseed oil and drying oil. The ax handle is coated with any of these compositions in several layers, drying each one well before applying the next. Apply the oil until the surface stops absorbing it.

Oil paints and varnishes are not recommended for coating the ax - this makes it slippery. If you want to leave bright marks on the handle so that an ax thrown into the grass is clearly visible, mix a little dye into the drying oil. It is better to use red, yellow or orange dye.

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How to choose a metal sheet

It is unlikely that anyone will be able to make their own houses metal sheet, equipped with an eyelet. It is better to buy it ready-made. When purchasing material, you should pay attention to the following points:

• the eyelet should have a cone-shaped shape;
• the steel should ideally be marked with GOST;
• inspect the blade for dents, bends, or nicks;
• the ends of the butt should be perpendicular to the blade.

The eyelet of the blade must correspond to the cross-section of the ax handle.

Draw a longitudinal center line on the end of the ax and another perpendicular to it. Cut a groove along the longitudinal contour to the depth of the eye. The slot is made to make it more convenient to wedge the ax handle. After this, place the butt against the end. Take it as a guide center lines and draw the outline of the eyelet.

Now take a knife or plane and cut the seating part of the part so that it follows the shape of the eye. The ax handle should extend slightly beyond it - about a centimeter.

Place the iron part on the wooden part, helping with a hammer. Hammer blows should be applied as carefully as possible to prevent cracking of the wood. When the end finally protrudes beyond the edge of the butt, you need to check how firmly the blade is seated. It should fit tightly, without slipping.

Undoubtedly, people who live in a private home or often go on hikes need such an indispensable tool as an ax. To purchase it, you just need to go to the market.

If you have questions about the quality of the purchased ax, you can make it yourself. Moreover, this can be done very easily if you use the instructions and tips for making it.

Classification of axes

Axes come in the following types:

1. Carpentry. Light, small axes must have a sharp blade. Designed for trimming and precision woodworking.
2. Carpentry universal. Axes of different weights. They don't have a big handle. They are used for imprecise wood processing.
3. Lumberjack's axe. Used for cutting wood, it has a wide blade and a long handle.
4. Ice ax Used in mountaineering. It consists of a spike, a head, a blade and a handle sharpened at the base. Outwardly it looks like a pickaxe.
5. Cleaver. Cone-shaped different shapes an ax that has a lot of weight. The shape and weight help to split hard wood.
6. Kuznechny. With such an ax it is possible to chop off metal materials. They apply the ax to the place where they need to chop off and hit the butt with a hammer.
7. Potes. It is used to trim wood. For efficient operation, the ax has a rounded blade.
8. Povarskaya. An ax with a short handle and a heavy, sharp cutting surface.
9. Paznik. Used for cutting grooves using an edge on the blade. The cutting part is perpendicular to the ax handle.
10. Firefighter. An ax with a metal handle that is insulated to withstand a voltage of 1000W. Its peculiarity is that there is a spike on the butt, which is used to cut a passage through the rubble.
11. Assault firefighter. A massive ax with a long handle. In case of fire, it is used to break down heavy structures.
12. Tourist. A small ax with a short shaft. It happens in combination with a knife or saw. For safety, it comes with a cover.
13. Tsalda. The ax blade, shaped like a sickle, is used to clear small bushes from the area.

Self-production

The order of work is as follows:

Work on cutting out an ax handle

Before starting work, it is necessary to make transverse cuts at the top and bottom of the beam. The depth of the cuts should not reach the line of the ax by 2-3 mm. Use a chisel to remove the excess layer of wood. Use a rasp to cut out places where corners and transitions are needed. Finally, the ax handle is sanded using sandpaper.

Choosing the piercing part

You can’t make a metal sheet at home, so you need to know what to look for when choosing it in a construction market:

• ideally, steel should be marked according to GOST;
• the eye should have the shape of a cone;
• the blade should not have dents, bends or nicks;
• If you look at the butt, its ends should be perpendicular to the blade.

Placing an ax on an ax handle

This can be done by performing these simple operations:

1. Transverse and longitudinal cuts are made on the ax handle in the upper part.




2. Cut 5 wedges from hardwood.




3. Gauze soaked in resin is wound over the ax handle to fit more tightly into the eyelet.




4. Hammer the ax handle into the eye of the ax.




5. Drive wedges into the cuts.




6. After drying, the protruding parts of the wedges are cut off.

Blade sharpening

Good functionality of the ax will be ensured correct sharpening blades. Depending on the type of work performed, you should choose the sharpening angle.

Eg, taiga ax sharpen at an angle of 25-30 degrees. If you need to cut fresh wood, you need to sharpen at an angle of 25 degrees.

If a sharpening wheel is used, the butt should be held at an angle of 45 degrees. All movements are performed smoothly, without jerking.

As you can see, having a small set of tools and instructions for making an ax in your arsenal, it is not at all difficult to make it to your size and needs.

Look video instructions for making a taiga ax with your own hands:

An ax made with your own hands will satisfy all the wishes of the master. A carpenter and a lumberjack, and indeed any owner who has own house. The ax will help in the construction or repair of buildings, cutting down trees, and preparing firewood.

An ax is an important assistant in the construction or repair of buildings, cutting down trees, and preparing firewood.

What ax to make?

In terms of purpose, shape and degree of versatility, there are many types of axes that differ markedly from each other. We can distinguish the main types of this important tool.

For wood processing, carpentry and carpentry work a carpenter's ax is used. It is characterized by its light weight (so that it can be held in one hand) and the convenience of an ax. Its blade has a straight cut and the sharpening angle is 35º. The most convenient length of the ax is considered to be 44-45 cm. The weight usually does not exceed 1.5 kg, and for lightweight versions it is 0.9 kg.

For cutting down trees or splitting firewood, other axes are used - lumberjacks. They have a rounded blade and a longer ax handle. Particularly noteworthy are the splitting axes designed for working with large logs. They have wedge-shaped, thickened, narrow blades and long, powerful axes.

The taiga ax is in quite high demand. With such an ax you can carry out rough work with wood (cutting trees, splitting firewood, cutting off branches), primary wood processing (log cabins for the winter, splitting logs), manufacturing hunting gear and devices, constructing temporary dwellings (huts, floorings) and many other works.

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Preparing the ax head

The question of how to make an ax is solved primarily at the stage of preparing the tool head. The head is the metal chopping part of the ax and consists of sections such as the blade (the pointed part), the blade (the wedge-shaped part), the butt (the back of the head) and the eye (the attachment area on the ax handle). The shape of the blade and blade determines what the ax does in the future.

In the process of creating a head, the blade is first given the desired shape and sharpened. U carpenter's tool the blade has a straight cut and the sharpening angle is 35°.

The taiga ax must have a rounded blade, so its convex shape is selected or the corners are ground off and the cut is rounded. The blade is sharpened using an emery block with grains. average size. Final finishing is carried out with a grinding stone.

The blade of a carpenter's ax (like most others) has a fairly regular trapezoidal shape. To make a taiga ax with your own hands, you need to align the upper cut of the blade with the cut of the eye and butt along the same line. Usually the top edge of the blade is simply cut off to the level of the eye.

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Making an ax

Second the most important stage The solution to the problem of how to make an ax is to make an ax handle. This element is made of wood. Birch is most often used. The taiga ax is typically used for high humidity. In this regard, it is recommended to use wood with less rotting under the influence of moisture. Maple has proven itself quite well in these conditions. The most optimal is ash.

The first step is to select or make a wooden chock with a diameter of about 15 cm and a length exceeding the length of the ax by 15 cm. Such a chock is split exactly in half and stripped of the bark. Then it must be dried well at a temperature of 20-25ºC and at a humidity of no more than 10%. A diagram is applied to the flat part of the workpiece. The longitudinal axis of the element must coincide with the direction of the wood fibers.

The initial processing of the chock is done with a small hatchet. Further shaping of the body of the workpiece is done using a chisel and knife.

In cross section, the workpiece should have an oval shape (correct round form tires your hand). The lower end of the element must be bent and widened to avoid the hand slipping when chopping. The upper end should be hemmed to fit into the hole in the head eye.

After the head has completely settled on the ax handle, the protrusion of the wooden part above the cut of the eye should be about 10 mm.

The surface of the workpiece is carefully sanded with emery cloth.

An ax forged by a blacksmith must be mounted on an ax handle. Attaching an ax is not as simple a process as it seems at first glance and has many subtleties.

Material for the ax

The choice of material for the ax is very important and we have dedicated a separate article to it. Special attention It is necessary to pay attention to the quality of the material and its drying, the strength and durability of the tool depends on this.

The shape of the ax depends on:
• Purpose of the ax
• Nozzle method
• Individual wishes of the owner

Chopping axes

Axes used for chopping usually have a long, straight or slightly curved handle. The long ax handle allows you to deliver very strong blows, and if you need to do more delicate work: sharpen a peg, trim a log, you can intercept the ax closer to the butt and deliver neat blows. To ensure greater reliability, a reverse attachment is usually used for such axes. The eye has a trapezoidal shape and tapers downward; the ax handle is passed through the eye from top to bottom.
Such an ax will never become loose or fly off. At strong blows an ax with a reverse thrust only fits more firmly onto the ax handle. This method attachments are also used for other tools that have to experience strong shock loads: cleavers, hammers, picks, large felling axes.

Sometimes they say that with a reverse attachment the ax handle will be too thin and can only have a straight shape. This is wrong. In order for the ax handle to fit comfortably in the hand, we make it even a little thinner than the size of the eye allows. The strength of a properly made ax does not suffer at all.
The shape can be given the most intricate, as long as all the curves are quite smooth. In our experiments, we made axes of various shapes, including testing the strength of an ash ax of a shape in which all the fibers were cut.
The most convenient for chopping turned out to be almost straight axes with a slight bend at the end. The bend allows you to confidently hold the ax during strong blows with both hands, although an absolutely straight ax handle works great.

Ax length

For medium axes (500 - 700 grams) intended for chopping, the most convenient ax length is 60-70 centimeters. Such a long ax makes it easy to chop even hard wood and is convenient when used with both two hands and one hand. An ax with a shorter ax is more convenient to carry, but requires more effort when chopping.

For medium axes, we use a slightly curved ax handle, which has a thickening at the top and protrudes from the top of the ax by 20-25 millimeters.
The protruding part is slightly wider than the top of the eyelet, which provides reliable fastening axe.

The place for the nozzle is carefully processed strictly to the size of the eyelet, so that there are no gaps left on either the top or bottom side of the eyelet. Then the ax handle is pressed into the axe. We wrote in more detail about attaching an ax to an ax handle in a separate article.

No complex operations with preparing and driving the wedge onto the glue and other tricks are required. The ax fits firmly and securely.

Buying an ax

On our website you can either buy an ax with an ax handle, or simply buy a forged poplar and make the ax handle yourself.

Ax attachment from above

Of course, you can plant the ax on top, just like they plant carpenter's axes. But you need to take into account that the load on the ax handle when chopping solid wood, very large. Inside the eye, the wood is subjected to compression and impact loads. When the wood inside the eye is crushed, an ax mounted on top and wedged can become loose.
When using the scheme for mounting an ax on top of the ax handle, you must be especially careful in choosing the material and positioning the ax - many have mounted our axes on top and are quite satisfied. You can also use a shorter handle. Such an ax cuts less effectively, but is smaller in size and is subject to less stress.

Carpenter's axes

Carpenter's axes, intended primarily for cutting, selecting grooves and other work requiring accuracy and precision, are usually mounted on a curved “Dutch” ax handle. This shape allows you to better control the ax and deliver accurate, measured blows.


We will not teach master carpenters how to make ax handles; the photograph shows the main features of a carpenter's ax: a straight or slightly rounded blade and a Dutch ax handle.

Carpenter's axes, due to the complex shape of the ax handle, are usually mounted on top and wedged. Since such an ax is usually used by professional carpenters, repairing the ax: wedging, re-attaching, replacing the ax handle is usually not an option. serious problems. In addition, carpenter's axes are less often used when camping, hunting, and in other extreme conditions, where the reliability of the ax is very important and it is not easy to repair it.

Hi all! This summer I went on a 5-week trek in the Alps with some friends. The time spent left a lot of positive impressions. But during this trip I discovered that I had forgotten one very important tool- axe. After a long day in the mountains, it's nice to sit by the fire and drink beer. But in order to start a fire without an ax, we had to spend a lot of time looking for small branches that could be broken by hand.

Therefore, as soon as I arrived home, I had the idea to make a tourist hatchet, in which, like a knife, a saw is hidden and there is a beer opener.

In this master class I will tell you how you can make such an ax yourself.

Ax design

The design of this ax consists of three parts.

Ax blade

The shape of the blade was borrowed from the tomahawk, an ax used by Native Americans and European colonists. But you can change its shape by adding some spikes or a hammer on the butt. The ax blade will be glued to the handle and secured with rivets.

Opener

First, as an opener, I wanted to make a suitable hole in the blade. As a result of test drilling, it was found that a regular drill It's impossible to make a hole, so I changed the type of opener. Both options can be seen in the image. New type will be made in the form of a specially shaped hook.

Saw

I wanted the ax to come with a saw and thought it would be nice if it could be hidden like a jackknife. From the handle and it can be unfolded using the finger groove. The saw will be hidden between two pads. The shape of the metal part of the handle will allow the saw to be locked in both open and folded positions.

Once the design was chosen, I tried it on a circular saw blade to get the dimensions to fit.

Materials and tools

This ax is made from a used circular saw and hardwood that I had. I only had to purchase a folding saw blade. It was already hardened, so it did not need heat treatment.

Materials:

• Old circular saw blade.
• Hardwood timber (approximately 50 x 40 x 300 mm).
• Epoxy resin.
• Large nails for use as rivets.
• Folding saw blade (I used 200mm).
• Bolt, nut and washer.

Tools:

• Angle grinder (don't forget about safety equipment!).
• Rasp.
• File.
• Sandpaper.
• Drill.

Let's make sparks!

I transferred the outline of the ax and the metal part of the handle onto circular saw and cut them out using an angle grinder with a thin cutting wheel. Then, using a grinding wheel, angular grinding machine and files I completed the formation of the elements. The final shape of the metal part of the handle can be given later.

Making the handle

You can glue the template to wooden blank and cut out two overlays. I took advantage of mine milling machine with CNC.

Drilling hardened steel

I didn't have a carbide metal drill, so I wasn't sure how the process would work with a hardened axe. I came across a video where it was explained that for drilling hardened metal You can use a sharpened drill bit for concrete. That's what I did, and everything worked out pretty well.

Adding an opener

This is probably the most irreplaceable part of the ax! Whenever I go camping, my friends and I usually have a couple of beers around the campfire in the evening. Opening them with stones and tree branches is very inconvenient. So I thought this detail would come in handy. I transferred the outline of a regular bottle opener onto the ax blade and cut a recess into it. Works great :)

Drilling the handle

Next, I drilled holes in the handle and checked that everything fit. Metal part The handle should perform the function of a spring that will fix the saw blade. If it is too elastic, it can be made thinner. First I used the metal part of the handle as a template to make the holes. Then I fastened the two pads together with clamps and then drilled them out. through hole. This way all the corresponding holes were in one line.

To connect the parts of the ax without gluing, I used bolts. This way you can check whether all the parts of the ax fit and whether the saw folds correctly.

Blade sharpening

Once the blade outline was drawn out, I used an angle grinder with a sanding disc to rough processing. Then, for finer work, a file and grinding machine(use water to cool the blade). The final sharpening was done using the grinding wheel of a sharpening machine.

I'm not an expert at sharpening an ax blade, so you can do this another way.

The ax will primarily be used to split wood into smaller pieces, so I did a little testing of its functionality.

Gluing and riveting