How to grow strawberries: planting methods and stages of development. Where to plant strawberries

Processing strawberries in spring

HOW TO PLANT STRAWBERRY CORRECTLY - 4 WAYS OF PLANTING

How to plant strawberries correctly to get a good harvest? I offer you four effective ways planting strawberries, which have long proven themselves among gardeners.

Planting strawberries with free-standing bushes Strawberry rosettes are planted one at a time at a distance of 45-60 cm. To prevent the plants from intertwining, the tendrils are regularly removed, thereby allowing the bushes to develop intensively and bear fruit abundantly.
Disadvantages of this method: it is labor-intensive, it requires frequent loosening of the soil, weed control, mulching and cutting off the mustache.
Advantages of the method: the berries are large due to the small number of bushes, each plant is ventilated, which reduces the likelihood of putrefactive diseases, it saves planting material.

Planting strawberries in rows In this case, the bushes are planted at a distance of 15-20 cm in one row, and a 40 cm wide strip is left between the rows so that you can freely approach the plantings. As with growing strawberries in individual bushes, it is necessary to loosen the soil and remove tendrils and weeds.
Disadvantages of this method: the same as the first.
Advantages of this method: strawberries planted in rows grow well and bear fruit for 5-6 years in one place.

Planting strawberries in nests With this method of planting, one plant is planted in the center of the future nest and six more around it. The result is a hexagon with a distance between plants in a nest of 5-8 cm. The distance between nests in one row should be 25-30 cm, and between rows 35-40 cm.
Disadvantages of this method: a lot of planting material is required. Advantages of the method: five more plants are planted than with traditional ways landing, which provides big harvest.

Carpet planting of strawberries This is the simplest and cheap way landings. Its essence is that the mustache of strawberry bushes does not break off, thereby allowing the berry to grow independently over the entire allotted area. With this compacted method of placing bushes, a special microclimate arises in the surface layer, and a layer of plant mulch is also formed on its own. This inhibits the growth of weeds and keeps the soil moist.
Advantages of the method: convenient for those who do not often visit the dacha; berries less often require watering, loosening and fertilizing due to natural mulching.
Disadvantages of this method: over time, the berries may become smaller.

How to properly propagate strawberries with a mustache

How did our grandmothers propagate strawberries? After the strawberry bushes fruited, they “started” the bed, that is, they did not tear off the mustache. And at the end of August, the strongest rooted rosettes were selected and moved to a new location. Raise your hand, those who blindly follow grandma's method. Forest of hands!

But if you want to get high-quality seedling material, if you want to preserve all the varietal qualities of strawberries, if you need an excellent harvest year after year, you need to act a little differently. Today we will tell you how to properly propagate strawberries with a mustache on the electronic pages “ Dacha councils».

Why can't you take mustaches from fruit-bearing bushes?

The correct approach to propagating strawberries is this: the bush should produce either berries or tendrils. One out of two. If a gardener takes tendrils from newly fertilized strawberry bushes, he gets inferior seedlings. The plant has already spent the bulk of its nutrients on ripening the berries, which means its mustache will be much weaker than we would like.

In addition, by forcing the bushes to “work on two fronts,” the summer resident risks losing them ahead of time. Strawberries are depleted faster, the berries become smaller, the bushes are more likely to be exposed to diseases, and the yield of the beds is reduced by 20-30%.

Strawberry propagation using mother bushes

Proper propagation of strawberries begins with the selection of so-called mother bushes. To do this, in the first year after planting, absolutely all the mustaches are removed from absolutely all strawberry bushes and wait for fruiting. The bushes that survived the vagaries of the weather best, did not get sick and produced the largest berries are marked with a sticker, a stick, a string - whatever you like, as long as it is noticeable. These are your future mother bushes. For convenience, you can even transplant them into a separate bed according to the scheme: 40 centimeters between bushes, 80 centimeters between rows.

Proper propagation of strawberries Next year, all buds are removed from selected mother bushes, preventing flowering and, accordingly, berry set.

Thus, unable to produce seeds, plants will put all their energy into vegetative propagation, that is, in the mustache. Already in the first month of summer, the uterine bushes will begin to produce mustaches, on which rosettes will subsequently be tied. You need to leave only the largest, most powerful mustache, and mercilessly tear off all the little things. The best option is to shorten the strawberry tendrils, leaving only one rosette on each, the one closest to the mother bush. But if you need a lot of seedlings, then you can use second sockets.

When the first roots appear on the rosettes, two options for further action are possible:

Propagation of strawberries by mustache Pin the rosettes to the ground, dig them a little into loose soil, and then water and care for them as you would any other seedlings.
Propagation of strawberries by mustaches Without separating the rosette from the mother bush, plant each one in a separate pot, where it will develop its own root system.
Strawberry seedlings are planted in a new location at the end of July - beginning of August, so that before the first frost the plants have time to take root and get stronger. Therefore, two weeks before planting, the mustache connecting the sockets with mother bush, cut, giving young plants time to get used to feeding from their own roots.

Propagation of strawberries by mustaches. Mother bushes can serve as a source of high-quality seedling material for two to three years. Moreover, two- or three-year-old strawberries produce much more whiskers than first-year ones. Well, after three years, it is recommended to replace the mother bushes with young ones, carrying out the entire selection procedure again.

Planting strawberries (strawberries): timing and technology

In previous articles of “Country Tips” we looked into the peculiarities of propagation of strawberries (strawberries) and methods of planting them.

The time has come to get to know the technology directly. When should you plant strawberries? How to plant it correctly so that each bush takes root and overwinters? How to water and feed newly planted seedlings? Do young plantings need to be mulched? Today our goal is to find answers to these and some other questions.

Dates for planting strawberries (strawberries)

Landing dates

For a future excellent harvest of berries, first of all, high-quality seedlings are necessary, and the best tendrils and rosettes appear in early spring or late summer, when temperatures are low and there is plenty of moisture.

Therefore, the optimal dates for planting strawberries in the Middle Zone are considered to be the periods from April 15 to May 5 and from July 25 to September 5. In the southern regions, spring planting begins in early March, and autumn planting ends at the end of October.

When is it better to plant strawberries: spring or autumn? In most areas and in most cases, August planting of young strawberries is considered the most successful option. During this period, the gardener has more time, a lot of planting material, and the weather, as a rule, is favorable for young bushes to take root, take root in a new place and survive the winter safely. But in open, windswept areas in areas with harsh winters with little snow, it is better to be careful and postpone planting to spring. Then the young bushes will have the whole summer to get stronger.

Preparing a bed for strawberries (strawberries)

Preparing the bed
It is recommended to plant strawberries in well-lit areas where garlic, onions, root vegetables or legumes previously grew. It is very good if the bed for strawberries was chosen in advance and sown with green manure in the spring, which by August had already been mowed, and the bed was watered with a solution of EM preparations. The best green manure for strawberries is lupine.

In any case, before planting seedlings, the area must be cleared of weeds and the soil must be mixed. Strawberries are a rather “gluttonous” berry, so in addition to soil, to prepare the soil you will need compost, rotted manure or vermicompost, and ash.

The holes for strawberry seedlings are made deep and wide. The distance between the holes is 30-50 cm. The distance between the rows is 40 cm. The soil removed from the holes is mixed with the rest of the soil components in the following proportions: 1 bucket of soil, 1 bucket of manure, 1 bucket of compost, 2 cups of ash. A small mound is made from the soil prepared in this way in the center of each hole.

Strawberry (strawberry) planting technology

Like any other crop, it is preferable to plant strawberries on a cloudy day or in the evening.

An hour before planting, the seedlings need to be watered; it would be even better to soak the seedlings in water or a biogrowth stimulator for a couple of hours. Some gardeners keep the bushes in garlic infusion (150 ml of garlic infusion per 10 liters of water) before planting to prevent “attacks” from pests.
Roots of strawberry seedlings
A good strawberry seedling should have 3-4 healthy leaves (it is advisable to remove the rest) and well-extended roots 10 centimeters in length (extra centimeters need to be cut off).

So, we have prepared young bushes, holes with “mounds” and the remains of the soil mixture. All that remains is to install each bush on the mound so that the growth point (the so-called “heart”) is flush with the surface of the bed, and the roots are spread along the slopes of the mound.
Landing on a hill
Then, holding the bush, you need to fill it with soil prepared in advance and at the same time spill it with water. This is done to ensure that the contact between the roots and the ground is closer.
Newly planted strawberry bush
It is imperative to ensure that the growing point is not too deep or too raised above the soil.
Landing dates

Caring for a young bed of strawberries (strawberries)

If you planted strawberries in the spring, flower stalks and tendrils may appear on the young bed. Cut them off without mercy! Now the main task of seedlings is to take root in a new place, and fruiting and reproduction can and should be postponed until the next season.
Removing colors
Be sure to mulch freshly planted strawberries. The best mulching material for this berry is pine needles - it prevents diseases from developing and repels pests. But straw, dried grass, leaves, rotted sawdust, etc. are also suitable.

Two weeks after planting, the young berries are fed. As a top dressing, you can use an infusion of vermicompost (sold in stores), an infusion of bird droppings, or herbal infusion. All these fertilizers are organic and contain a large amount of easily digestible nitrogen, which promotes the rapid growth of young strawberries.

We wish you success and great harvests!

Processing strawberries in spring

Spring processing of strawberries is one of the first tasks of a summer resident upon returning to his favorite plot after a long winter. However, not everyone knows how to properly process strawberries in the spring in order to save their own energy and increase the future harvest.

Do I need to remove old dried leaves? Should I remove the top layer of soil? How to treat strawberries against pests and diseases? What should be the first spring feeding of strawberries? The questions have been asked, so we will answer...

Processing strawberries in spring

After the snow melts and the first warm days arrive, old-school gardeners, armed with a flat-cutter, hoe and shovel, begin standard processing of strawberries “according to the textbook”: remove the top layer of soil (formidable pests live there), pick off dried leaves (because the bushes should look beautiful), feed, loosen and add soil, spray the bushes against pests. Processing strawberries in spring As a result, you end up with bare beds, which become crusty after the first hot sunny day. And the crust needs to be loosened again, etc. etc.
So you can't do that? Why is it possible? But such processing takes a lot of time and effort.

For those who feel sorry for the wasted effort, we offer a slightly different method of processing strawberry bushes.

So, here is a list of the main activities that need to be carried out in the spring in the strawberry patch:

1. Raking mulch that has not rotted over the winter;

2. Adjusting the sides of the bed;

3. Fertilizing with mineral or organic fertilizers;

4. Initial treatment of strawberry bushes against diseases with chemicals or biological products;

5. Mulching.

Cleaning and tidying up

We are sure that you mulch your strawberries with one of the suitable organic mulching materials, which means that after winter there will be plant residues left on the beds that have not had time to rot. They should be removed to compost heap. The point of this procedure is that the soil covered with mulch warms up more slowly, and in order for the strawberry bushes to start growing faster, the soil must be warm. After getting rid of last year's mulch, you need to straighten the sides of the beds so that they look neat and your neighbor doesn't look at you like you're lazy.

Spring feeding of strawberries

Feeding strawberries in spring To stimulate the appearance of fresh green leaves, strawberry bushes can be fed. If you are not opposed to the use of mineral fertilizers in the garden, then choose one of the options for complex feeding:

1 tbsp. nitroammophoska per 10 liters of water.
Supporters of organic farming feed strawberry beds with mullein infusion (1 part manure to 10 parts water) or chicken manure (1 part manure to 12 parts water) or nettle infusion (a bucket of young nettle is poured warm water and stand for 3-4 days).

Strawberry fertilizer is applied directly under the bush, avoiding the solution getting on the leaves.

Treating strawberries against pests and mulching

In early spring, before strawberries bloom, it is recommended to treat the bushes against pests. Those who are not afraid of chemicals spray plants with Taurus or Caesar. For adherents of biological products, there are “Fitoverm” and “Acrofit”. Just do not forget that drugs of biological origin are effective at temperatures above +18°C.

Some gardeners prefer to control pests with ordinary water. The water must be heated to a temperature of 60-65°C and pour it over the strawberries using a watering can with a fine strainer. The main thing is that the water does not have time to cool down ahead of time and that it falls on the leaves more or less evenly. “Water procedures” not only help get rid of pests, they also stimulate growth and contribute to the enlargement of berries.

Mulching strawberries in the spring When the soil has warmed up well and the threat of return frosts has ceased to hang like a sword of Damocles over the summer cottage, the strawberry beds need to be mulched again. Spruce and pine needles are best suited for this purpose. The fact is that such mulch plays the role of a kind of antiseptic - with it, strawberries are not afraid of any diseases. Straw mulch is also good, as it allows moisture to pass through well and prevents the berries from rotting. True, slugs and other “voracious bellies” can take root in straw, so pine mulch is considered number one for strawberries.

But what about old leaves? Over time, old dried leaves will happily disappear on their own, without our help, and at first they will “work instead of mulch,” protecting the soil from drying out and creating an optimal microclimate in the strawberry bed.

We wish you success and great harvests!

Fertilizing strawberries in spring, summer, autumn

Not every gardener can boast of rich black soil on their plot. Again, not every gardener, even if he decides to practice natural farming, is able to replace all of his traditional beds with more fertile organic ones in one sitting. Especially when it comes to strawberries, which grow in one place for several years.

In order not to be left without real fragrant and sweet strawberries during the season, many summer residents have to rely on fertilizing. Today we will talk about when and what to feed strawberries for optimal growth, wild flowering and corresponding fruiting.

During the summer season, strawberries are usually fed three times: in the spring, in the summer after the main harvest, and in late summer or autumn before preparing for winter. Remontant strawberries are especially responsive to feeding; they need to be fed at intervals of a week.

First feeding of strawberries in spring

Fertilizers for strawberries

For the first time, strawberry bushes are fed in the spring, at the very beginning of the dacha season, as soon as the snow melts and more or less warm weather sets in. The first feeding is aimed at stimulating the growth of fresh shoots and leaves, and therefore must contain nitrogen.

Recipes for spring fertilizing of strawberries

1 tbsp. ammonium sulfate and 2 cups of mullein per 10 liters of water;
1 tbsp. nitroammophoska per 10 liters of water;
1 part mullein to 10 parts water;
1 part chicken manure to 12 parts water;
Pour 1 bucket of nettle with warm water and leave for 3-4 days;
30 drops of iodine, 1 teaspoon boric acid, 1 glass of ash per 10 liters of water;
3 grams of potassium permanganate, 0.5 tsp. boric acid, 1 tbsp. urea and 0.5 cups of ash per 10 liters of water;
2/3 bucket of dried crusts, pieces, any leftovers rye bread fill with water and keep warm for 6-10 days. Then dilute with water three times;
1 part whey (or any other fermented milk product) to 3 parts water.
Under each strawberry bush, you need to pour 0.5-1 liter of liquid fertilizer, depending on the size of the bush.

Second feeding of strawberries

How to feed strawberries

The second feeding of strawberries is carried out in the summer, towards the end of July after the main harvest of berries is harvested. It would seem why? The fact is that at this time the formation of new roots begins and flower buds for the next season, so the plants could use additional potassium and microelements.

Recipes for the second feeding of strawberries

2 tbsp. nitrophoska and 1 tsp. potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water;
2 tbsp. potassium nitrate per 10 liters of water;
1 glass of vermicompost per 10 liters of water is infused for 24 hours, then diluted in half with water;
100 grams of ash per 10 liters of water.
Under each bush you need to pour about 0.5 liters of any of the above fertilizers. Alternatively, the ash can not be dissolved in water, but scattered directly under the bushes. After two weeks, it would be good to repeat the feeding: after all, at this time the plants need nutrition most of all.

Third feeding of strawberries in autumn

Fertilizers for garden strawberries

The last third fertilizing of strawberries is recommended in mid-September in dry weather, when the crop has long been harvested and the bushes are beginning to prepare for the coming winter. As a rule, young (one-year-old) plants especially need the third feeding in order to successfully overwinter.

Recipes autumn feeding strawberries

1 part mullein to 10 parts water + 0.5 cups of ash;
1 part mullein to 10 parts water + 2 tbsp. superphosphate + 1 glass of ash;
2 tbsp. nitroammophoska, 30 grams of potassium sulfate and 1 glass of ash per 10 liters of water.
Each bush will need from 250 to 500 ml. such feeding.

For those who don't complain at all mineral fertilizers and grows strawberries according to the rules of organic farming with mandatory mulching, we recommend feeding strawberries with vermicompost infusion four times a season. The first time in early spring, then before flowering, the third time during berry set and last time after fruiting.

We wish you success and great harvests!

How to grow strawberry seedlings from seeds

Not all summer residents decide to propagate strawberries by seeds. And this is understandable. No matter what manufacturers of planting material write on bright packaging, growing strawberries from seeds is a troublesome business. The seeds take a long time to sprout, and often disappear altogether; the seedlings look fragile and small, you have to pick them with tweezers; It is unacceptable to over-moisten the seedling soil, and even less so to over-dry it... So many worries!

Nevertheless, growing strawberries or strawberries from seeds has its advantages. If you want to improve the health of your berries, try new interesting varieties and are not afraid of any difficulties, go for it! And we will help you with useful advice...

First of all, we advise you to pay attention to small-fruited varieties of remontant strawberries. It is less capricious than strawberries, costs less, and the chances of getting good seedlings a lot more. In the future, having gained experience, you will move on to growing large-fruited varieties.

Timing for sowing strawberry seeds for seedlings

Growing strawberries from seeds
You can plant strawberries for seedlings both in February and in April. Everything will depend on your conditions.

Anyone who is ready to provide the strawberries with the brightest window sill or to add additional light to the seedlings for 12-14 hours a day can safely sow the seeds in early February and have the right to expect the first harvest of berries this season.

Well, for those whose window sills are already occupied by tomatoes and peppers, it is not forbidden to plant strawberries in March or at the very beginning of April. Perhaps this season such bushes will not be able to bear fruit, but next year will show themselves in all their glory.

Preparing soil for strawberry seedlings

Growing strawberry seedlings: sowing seeds
The main properties required for soil for strawberry seedlings are lightness and water permeability. To achieve the desired quality, some gardeners advise sifting the soil mixture through a sieve. The following mixtures are best suited for strawberry seedlings:

Option 1: 3 parts garden soil, 3 parts humus or compost, 1/2 part wood ash.
Option 2: 4 parts vermiculite, 3 parts peat, 3 parts sand.
Option 3: 1 part coconut fiber, 1 part humus or vermicompost.
Option 4: 3 parts sand, 5 parts humus.
Option 5: 2 parts turf land, 1 part sand, 1 part peat.
Option 6: 3 parts sand, 1 part garden soil, 1 part humus.
To disinfect the soil as much as possible, it is either calcined, frozen, or spilled with a solution of potassium permanganate in advance.

Seed stratification and sowing for seedlings

How to grow strawberry seedlings from seeds
This is why summer residents don’t like to tinker with strawberry seedlings so much! Because of the notorious stratification, which in this case cannot be circumvented.

Stratification is the creation of conditions for seeds to germinate that are close to natural. The strawberry seeds that we have on hand, roughly speaking, are sleeping. Growth blockers work to their full potential - special substances that prevent seeds from germinating before the onset of favorable period. The gardener’s task is to artificially create all the conditions for the seeds so that they quickly “come out of hibernation” and begin to grow.

How to stratify strawberry seeds? You can go the traditional route and keep the seeds on a damp cloth in the refrigerator for a week, and then carefully sow them into the ground. Or you can “kill two birds with one stone” by combining stratification with sowing.

It is most convenient to sow strawberry seeds in plastic containers with a lid, having previously made several in their bottom. drainage holes. This container is filled soil mixture, not reaching the edge by a couple of centimeters. Moisten the soil slightly so that small seeds do not sink too deeply, and then distribute the seeds evenly over the surface. They are not covered with earth, but the two or two and a half centimeters remaining to the top of the container are filled with snow. Close the lid of the container and place it in the refrigerator for two weeks.

In the refrigerator, the snow will gradually melt and sink into the soil, carrying the seeds with it. This is approximately what happens in natural conditions in the spring. This is exactly what we wanted!

After the stratification period has expired, the container with the planted seeds is placed on the windowsill. There is no need to open the lid yet, and usually there is no need to water it either (moisture from melted snow is usually enough). But it is not forbidden to arrange additional lighting.

After 10-15 days (for some varieties after a month), the first shoots appear.

Caring for strawberry seedlings before planting in the ground

Growing strawberry seedlings: first shoots
With the emergence of seedlings, the lid of the box must be periodically opened slightly (or holes made in it). It is not recommended to open young seedlings immediately and permanently to avoid rapid evaporation of moisture. Constant moisture (but not waterlogging) of the soil is one of the key points in growing strawberry seedlings.

When sowing seeds in a transparent plastic container with a lid, it is very convenient to monitor the humidity level. If the container lid looks a little foggy, that's okay; if there is so much condensation that it collects in drops on the lid, then there is excess moisture in the soil, and it is necessary to ventilate the seedlings; If the lid is dry, it's time to water.

Water the strawberries very carefully: either with drops along the walls of the container, or from a fine sprayer, or with a medical syringe. The best water for irrigation is melt water. If there are concerns about fungal infections that may lie dormant in the soil, you can add Fitosporin, diluted according to the instructions, to the irrigation water.

Approximately 3-4 days after germination, the lid can be opened for good.

With the appearance of 2-3 true leaves, strawberry seedlings are planted in individual cups. The procedure is not the easiest, because the plants are still tiny, fragile, with an elongated stem. Many people use tweezers to carefully hold each blade of grass. When picking, you must ensure that the root does not bend upward. First, the seedling is sprinkled with earth to the same depth; later, when the seedlings have taken root in a new place, earth is added up to the cotyledon leaves, without filling the growth point. The entire long stem of the strawberry seedling will be underground and will produce additional roots.
Growing strawberry seedlings at home
Some gardeners simply “hill up” the sprouts, raking up the soil so as to cover the long stem, leaving the growing point and leaves above the ground, and picking is done later, with the appearance of 3-4 pairs of true leaves. In this case, the seedlings will be much stronger, but there may be a problem with intertwining roots. The roots of the seedlings can become so intertwined with each other that you will have to wash them with water and carefully (using a fork) untangle them.

After picking, caring for strawberry seedlings comes down to constantly monitoring the humidity level. In addition, you can harden the seedlings by taking them out onto the balcony at stable above-zero temperatures. There is no need to feed strawberry seedlings until they are planted in the ground.

We wish you success and great harvests!

Lettuce, as the earliest and most unpretentious green crop, has always been held in high esteem by gardeners. Most gardeners usually start spring planting by sowing lettuce, parsley and radishes. Recently, the desire for healthy eating and big choice greens in supermarkets make gardeners wonder which of these plants can be grown in their beds? In this article we will talk about nine of the most interesting, in our opinion, varieties of salad.

Carrots come in different colors: orange, white, yellow, purple. Orange carrots contain beta-carotene and lycopene, yellow due to the presence of xanthophylls (lutein); White carrots have a lot of fiber, and purple ones contain anthocyanin, beta and alpha carotenes. But, as a rule, gardeners choose carrot varieties for sowing not by the color of the fruit, but by the timing of their ripening. About the best early, middle and late varieties we will tell you in this article.

We recommend a fairly easy pie recipe with a delicious chicken and potato filling. An open pie with chicken and potatoes is an excellent hearty dish that is suitable for a hearty snack; it is very convenient to take a couple of pieces of this pastry on the road. The pie is baked in the oven for one hour at 180 degrees. After that we put it on wooden surface, having previously released it from the mold. It is enough to slightly cool the baked goods and you can start tasting.

The long-awaited spring for many indoor plants is the period of the start of active growing season, and for most - the return of their decorative properties. While admiring the young leaves and emerging shoots, you should not forget that spring is also a great stress for all indoor plants. Sensitive to changes in conditions and universal, all indoor crops face much brighter lighting, changes in air humidity and temperature conditions.

You can easily prepare homemade Easter cake with cottage cheese and candied fruits, even without any pastry experience. You can bake Easter cake not only in a special form or in a paper mold. For your first culinary experiences (and more), I advise you to take a small cast-iron frying pan. Easter cake in a frying pan will not turn out as high as in a narrow pan, but it never burns and is always well baked inside! Cottage cheese dough made with yeast turns out airy and aromatic.

It is also interesting because its fruits (pumpkins) are used for food by young, not ripe ones (greens). This means you don’t have to wait for the harvest to ripen, and from late spring to autumn you can have fresh vegetables on your menu. In your garden beds, it is better to grow varieties and hybrids of zucchini that are resistant to diseases and changes in weather conditions. This eliminates unwanted treatments and allows you to get a harvest in any weather. It is these varieties of zucchini that will be discussed in this article.

In the middle zone, April is the time when the first flowering of plants in gardens and parks begins. The constant soloists of the spring that has come into its own are the bulbous primroses. But even among the ornamental shrubs you can find those that will delight you with fragrant flowers that enliven the still inconspicuous garden. The main riot of beautifully flowering ornamental shrubs occurs in the month of May, and most of them, as a rule, bloom in mid-May.

Salad “Uzbekistan” with green radish, boiled meat and eggs is a classic dish of Uzbek cuisine, known to many since the times of the USSR. In any Uzbek restaurant you could order this simple but very tasty salad with meat and radish as an appetizer. If you have never cooked this dish before, I advise you to try it - you will like it and fall into the category of favorites! You can diversify the taste a little and add finely chopped cilantro, parsley and a pod of red chili pepper.

They offer us this great amount different preparations, which, at times, can even cause confusion in the matter of choosing one fertilizer or another. experienced summer resident. In this article, we invite the reader to get acquainted with OMU - a complex granular organomineral fertilizer of prolonged action, which compares favorably with other modern complex fertilizers. Why is WMD the best nutrition you can offer your plants and how does it work?

The group of medicinal plants that have a general calming (sedative) effect includes big number aromatic herbs and shrubs. At correct use teas and infusions from these plants help cope with stressful situations, improve mood, eliminate or reduce nervous overexcitation. In this article we will talk about nine of the most interesting, in our opinion, medicinal plants that can be grown on the site without much difficulty.

Fragrance is not the most important feature and is not at all associated with orchids. But for some species and individual varieties, the smell is a significant addition to their main “image”. Favorite sweets, confectionery and spicy aromas are not uncommon among orchids. Vanilla aromas or more original spices in the scent notes give a delightful bright flowers even more exotic. And choose spicy ones fragrant orchids possible from both popular and rare species.

Easy pear and nut muffins - sweet, juicy and delicious! The birthplace of muffins is considered to be Great Britain and America. In England, such cupcakes are made from butter yeast dough, in America from buttery yeast-free dough, which is loosened using baking soda or baking powder, or both. The basic muffin recipe looks something like this: 200 g flour, 200 ml milk or kefir, 100 g eggs, 100 g butter, baking powder and soda.

What does it take to get a good potato harvest? Many gardeners will say - good seed material, fertile soil, timely watering and fertilizing. But there is one negative factor that can significantly reduce the potato yield, despite the fulfillment of the above conditions - weeds. On plantations overgrown with weeds, it is not possible to obtain a rich potato harvest, and repeated weeding is one of the most labor-intensive procedures in caring for the crop.

Some of the summer residents are lucky and they acquire an estate with several mature spreading trees that create shade and cozy corners. But our new dacha had virtually no such plantings. And the half-empty area behind the chain-link mesh turned out to be completely open to prying eyes. That's why this interesting design arose, which meets the specific requirements of our family. I think our experience in constructing multifunctional plant supports will be interesting to you too.

Today we will talk about the annual variety “Amore Mio”. In 2016, petunia “Amore Mio Orange” received a gold medal from the international association of breeders, sellers and producers of flower crops. The plant grows up to 25 cm in height. Bush appearance resembles a ball that is densely strewn with bright fragrant flowers up to 6 cm in diameter. Does not set seeds. Petunia "Amore Mio" is used for vertical and horizontal gardening.

Strawberries are one of the most delicious and popular berries in our country. To obtain a rich harvest of sweet fruits, you need to know many of the nuances of growing. There are many ways to cultivate berries. How to grow strawberries correctly?

Strawberries can be planted on permanent place early spring or autumn. Autumn planting is preferable, since fruiting will occur in the coming season. Plants planted in spring will bear fruit only a year later. However, there is a risk of plant death after the onset of return frosts.

Strawberry autumn planting will have time to take root and strengthen before the onset of winter. The optimal time period for planting is the period from August 10 to September 25. You should not delay planting, because late planting can greatly reduce the volume of the harvest.

How to choose a place?

For strawberries, it is advisable to choose flat area With sufficient quantity sunlight, not exposed to drafts. Before planting, it is recommended to check the soil for the presence of pest larvae: wireworms, nematodes and Colorado potato beetle, and also make sure that there are no roots of perennial weeds in the soil.

If there are large trees in the garden that cast shadows on the berry bushes, the strawberries will not develop well. Such a neighborhood is also dangerous for the health of those who will eat the berries, because when spraying trees, some of the chemicals can get on the fruits. Currants and gooseberries are good companions for strawberries, so you can place bushes between these crops.

Strawberries are considered an unpretentious plant that can adapt to life in almost any area. However, it has its own preferences: the culture develops best in light soils, loamy, chernozem and sandy loam soils. Strawberries feel comfortable in dark gray forest soil on a small slope with a southwestern orientation. On sandy, clayey, peat and soddy-podzolic soils, strawberries bear fruit worse.

When choosing a site, determine its acidity: For strawberries, pH values ​​from 5 to 6.5 are normal. Groundwater should not pass close to the surface; the optimal depth is 60 cm. In winter, a thickness of 25 cm of soil should not freeze more than -8 degrees Celsius.

One plot is suitable for growing strawberries for 3-4 years, then it must be transplanted to a new place. The crop can be returned to its original site after 2-3 years. The principles of crop rotation should be observed. Strawberries are planted in areas where garlic, herbs, cereals, marigolds and petunias previously grew.

Preparing the site and seedlings

If planned spring planting, the soil begins to be prepared even before the onset of winter. It is dug up and 10 kg of humus is added to each m2 of soil (5 kg of manure can be replaced), up to 100 grams of superphosphate and 50 grams of potassium salt. If in autumn time the holes were not fertilized, then 3 handfuls of humus and one handful of wood ash are added to each hole.

Before planting, the seedlings must be left for 3 days in a cool place, and immediately before lowering into the hole, the roots must be treated with a clay mash so that they take root more easily and do not dry out.

The mash is prepared as follows: Half a bucket of orange clay is filled with water so that it slightly covers the clay layer. The mixture will infuse and soon turn into a mass similar in consistency to sour cream. To get rid of undissolved lumps, the clay is mixed well.

Before planting, pinch off the longest root of the bush. To root system it takes root faster, the green mass of the seedlings is also cut off, leaving 3-4 large leaves. If the autumn time is chosen for planting strawberries, the soil is prepared in the spring according to the above scheme.

How to choose seedlings?

It is necessary to plant only healthy and strong seedlings. The root system should be fibrous, and the length of succulent white roots should reach at least 3-5 cm. The diameter of the root collar is preferably 6 cm. The green mass of a high-quality seedling consists of 3-5 leaves and a whole apical bud.

Purchased seedlings must be planted quickly. If it is not possible to plant immediately, the strawberries can be buried in damp soil, having first wrapped the roots in moistened moss. You need to place the seedlings in a cold room or in a dark corner of the garden.

How to plant strawberries?

Scheme for growing strawberries in open ground

Strawberries are planted during cloudy and damp weather.

The planting process includes the following steps:

1. A bush is lowered into the prepared hole.
2. The root system is carefully straightened so that it is located throughout the entire space.
3. The hole is gradually covered with earth, periodically compacting the soil so that voids do not form.
4. The root collar is buried in line with the soil.
5. The young plant is watered abundantly.

Methods of cultivation and reproduction

There are several ways to grow and propagate strawberries. The crop is grown in vertical beds using flower pots, pipes and bags, film tunnels are constructed under agrofibre. The plant is propagated using seeds, tendrils and dividing the bush.

String method

If the line method is chosen, it is necessary to prepare six hundred seedling bushes per 100 m2. There are one-line and two-line planting methods. The classic two-line fit is popular. This placement option assumes a distance between lines of 30 cm, between rows - 70 cm, and between bushes - 20 cm.

The single-line planting method implies a 70cm distance between lines and a 20cm distance between bushes. The beds are arranged in a direction from north to south, and two rows of strawberries are planted along the edges.

The planting process includes the following steps:

1. If the area is small, it is recommended to use a cord for planting. Using a tape measure, marks for future rows are made at the two ends of the selected area.
2. Pegs are installed along the edges of the rows, onto which a cord is pulled, indicating the future line.
3. Observing the recommended distance, along a stretched cord, a stick in the ground marks the location of future holes for planting, which are then dug to such a depth that the root system can freely fit into the hole.
4. A liter of water is poured into the hole.
5. After the water has been absorbed into the soil, the well-extended root system is placed in the mud.
6. The hole is filled with dry soil, regularly compacting the soil to avoid the appearance of air pockets.
7. The young plant is watered using half a liter of water for each bush.

To save plants from pests, it is recommended to lay lutrasil or roofing material on the soil with holes made for the bushes.

Using film tunnels

A shelter made of film material will help strawberries ripen faster; the gardener can even gain several weeks if he creates such a structure. Most often, this method is used when growing early strawberry varieties.

Film tunnels, which are installed in early May, are considered the easiest to create and operate:

1. To begin with, install support arches, which are placed at a distance of one meter from each other. They should rise half a meter above the ground.
2. A film is attached to the ends of the arcs buried in the ground, which is then pulled onto the supports.
3. The result is a kind of film tunnel. If the film sags on top or on the side, it is necessary to secure the arcs with twine.

Plantings in a film tunnel must be regularly cared for (mulched, harvested), as well as periodically ventilated. For this reason, one side of the greenhouse should be blind, and the gardener should be able to get inside from the other side.

One side of the film is sprinkled with earth or fixed with heavy objects, and a strip is attached to the other side. From the end of the structure, the film is collected into a bundle and tied to pegs driven into the ground. Caring for plantings is easy. You need to place a thermometer inside to monitor the temperature. If the thermometer rises above 25 degrees, urgent ventilation is necessary.

On vertical beds

The vertical growing method is popular among gardeners who do not have large plots of land. Strawberries are planted in special containers located vertically and filled with soil. Pipes, bags, flower pots are used as containers. car tires. Any vertical design will do.

This method is also suitable for growing strawberries if the site does not have suitable soil for it. Big advantage The method is to obtain a rich harvest using a small area of ​​land.

The distance between planted plants should be about 10cm. The container in which the root system will grow must be at least one and a half liters in volume. Each container is filled with a soil mixture consisting of turf soil, humus and peat in equal proportions.

As soon as the containers and seedlings have been prepared, planting begins from the lowest tier, gradually moving to the very top. Strawberries grown in vertical beds are watered 2-3 times a week using warm water.

It needs regular feeding, which is carried out during watering. With the onset of cold weather, the crop requires protection. If the structure is prefabricated, it is disassembled, and the containers are placed on the ground and covered with agrofibre.

Advantages of using vertical beds:

1. Easy care (no need to get rid of weeds).
2. Less chance of illness.
3. Saving site area.
4. Easy to harvest and saves time.

There are also some disadvantages:

1. Less nutrition due to small land volume.
2. Fast drying and frequent watering(strawberries in pots dry out much faster, so frequent watering is required).
3. Freezing in winter (if you do not cover the plant and bring it indoors, the strawberries will die).

Under agrofibre

The use of agrofibre allows you to reduce the ripening time of the crop by a week. After the snow has completely melted, the bushes are covered with agrofibre. Under this material a comfortable temperature is created for the development of the culture. It is protected in case of return frosts and cold winds. After establishing a comfortable temperature, the shelter is removed.

Growing from seeds

The seed method has several advantages, since the seeds are stored for a long time and there is no chance of transmitting fungal diseases. Seeds are prepared independently or purchased in a store.

For independent harvesting, choose strong bushes on the site and collect seeds from ripe berries. The planting material is dried and stored in a glass container until the next season. 3 months before the intended planting in open ground, the seeds are wrapped in damp gauze and placed in the refrigerator.

Sow seeds in January:

• drainage and soil mixture are poured into the container;
• make rows in the ground half a centimeter wide;
• the ground is watered;
• sow seeds, which are lightly sprinkled with soil.

The soil in the box should always be kept moist. In a month the first shoots will appear. Young plants are transplanted into a large box, and at the end of April they are moved to open ground.

Growing with a mustache

Propagation of strawberries using whiskers is popular. The strong tendrils are separated from the mother plant and planted in a peat tablet, which is placed in a tray filled with water. A shelter is arranged from above to create greenhouse conditions. After a week, the mustache will sprout. To avoid injury, the mustache is transferred to open ground directly in a peat tablet.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

Propagated by dividing the bush remontant strawberries, which produces virtually no mustache. Choose a three-year-old plant with strong roots. In autumn or spring, the mother plant is dug up and divided into parts so that each new bush has roots and a leaf rosette. The resulting divisions are planted in a permanent place.

Care after landing

After planting, strawberries require attention. It is necessary to regularly water it, feed it, remove weeds and prepare it for wintering. In spring, the area is cleaned with a rake. All debris, fallen leaves, tendrils and dry bushes that can transmit diseases to new plants are removed from the site.

Throughout the entire period of strawberry development, the soil should always be loosened, free of weeds and moderately watered. After the formation of ovaries, the strawberries stop loosening and are mulched using wheat or rye straw. If such material is not available, you can purchase it in the store. special fabric for mulching.

Watering and fertilizing

The soil should always be kept moist, so watering is done as the soil dries out. After fruiting ends, strawberries begin to grow new roots, leaves and tendrils. During this period, mineral and organic fertilizers are applied. On square meter add three kilograms of humus, 30g of superphosphate, 15g of saltpeter and 20g of potassium salt.

Winter care

Strawberries need special preparation before the onset of winter. After cutting off the leaves and tendrils, loosen the soil, sprinkle it well with potassium permanganate and feed it. Until young foliage appears, the area is well watered. If the bushes can grow a lush green mass before the cold weather, they will cope with any frost. To save the plant from severe frosts, it is covered with pine needles.

Sweet strawberries are considered the queen of our gardens, so every summer resident should know the secrets of growing them.

Strawberries have an unforgettable taste and aroma, thanks to which both adults and children love them. This berry is very popular, but its price is quite high, and it is much more profitable to grow strawberries yourself right at your summer cottage.

Growing strawberries on your own in your summer cottage is a very painstaking, but at the same time simple task. If all the rules are followed correctly, the plant will actively bear fruit and produce a good harvest.

The difficulty of growing lies in the fact that when cultivating strawberries you will have to spend a lot of effort on performing such mundane actions as watering and weeding.

You can grow this berry in open ground in the garden in both southern and northern latitudes and in Siberia. The key to success in this matter will be correct selection of variety, which must be adapted to a specific location. Modern market can offer a huge number of types of strawberries. All of them differ from each other according to such criteria as climate resistance, ripening period, size and taste of fruits, etc.

When planning to plant strawberries in your dacha, you also need to make sure that they feel comfortable. To do this, the berries are placed in light, sandy or loamy soil.

Popular species and good varieties for Siberia

For beginners, it is best to focus on well-known varieties that have already proven themselves:

1. Darenka– this early-ripening variety boasts immunity to fungal diseases and pests. This plant also tolerates well winter temperatures and brings a large amount of harvest. The berries are medium-sized (15-20 grams) and have the shape of a blunt cone. The taste is pleasant, sweet and sour;
2. – this variety has excellent resistance to frost and drought. There is a susceptibility to infection with brown or white spot. Large fruits, weighing 25-35 grams, are made in the shape of a rounded diamond, characterized by the presence of ribs. When fully ripe, the skin takes on a dark burgundy hue. The pulp is juicy, tender and sweet and sour;
3. – variety Russian selection perfectly adapted to the conditions of the middle zone. The plant is not afraid of diseases and return frosts, but at the same time produces a good harvest. The leaves on the bushes are large, and the flower stalks are powerful and stable. The oblong, bright red berries have a pleasant taste and strawberry aroma;
4. – feature remontant variety its fruits will be large and very sweet. The plant can withstand severe frosts, return frosts, insect attacks and diseases. Productivity is always at a high level. The main disadvantage of the variety is that it does not form a mustache, so it will have to be propagated using seeds.

Darenka

Proper planting in a garden plot in open ground - step-by-step instructions

When planting strawberries in a summer cottage, the first thing you need to do is decide on deadlines. The gardener has several options for the development of events:

• spring (April) – the strawberry bed must be prepared in the fall of the previous season;
• summer (July 20-25) - the bed is also prepared in the fall;
• autumn (September) - in this case, the soil for plants is prepared 2-3 weeks before work.

Once the deadlines have been determined, you can begin formation of beds. The place where they will be located must meet the following requirements:

1. The soil must be sandy loam or loamy, necessarily breathable and nutritious;
2. The optimal acidity level should be within 5.5-6.5 Ph. If the indicator is low, it can be raised by adding dolomite flour. It is worth remembering that such work can only be carried out in the fall;
3. Places where precipitation accumulates and are not suitable for growing strawberries melt water, because in this case there is a high risk of rotting of the root system;
4. Groundwater should be located at a depth equal to 70-80 centimeters;
5. Experienced gardeners recommend placing strawberries separately from all other garden crops;
6. The best predecessors of strawberries are legumes and grains or greens. You should not plant in places where tomatoes or potatoes previously grew;
7. In order for the berries to ripen and be juicy and sugary, the planting site must be sunny.

The method of forming the beds will depend on the chosen growing location. If the site is located on a hill and is well illuminated by sunlight, it is enough to build bulk bed height 10 centimeters. At a high position groundwater this figure is increasing up to 35-40 centimeters.

The optimal planting width is 95-100 centimeters.

In order to make the soil more fertile, the following fertilizers are applied per square meter of soil:

• 8 kilograms of compost;
• 100 grams of superphosphate;
• 30 grams of potassium salt.

The next step is to select healthy seedlings:

• they should show no signs of mechanical damage or disease;
• planting material with the most powerful and branched roots takes root best;
• the socket must be from 3-4 leaves.

Before planting, you must carefully dig the soil to a depth of 25-30 centimeters.

Carrying out such work will help create a nutritional and water regime. Also, during digging, you can detect and destroy a variety of pests.

As soon as preparatory work will be completed, you can start planting:

1. The best time for planting is considered to be early morning or late evening on a cloudy day;
2. The standard planting scheme suggests that the distance between the rows is 60-70 centimeters, and between individual plants 20-25 centimeters;
3. The hole is dug to depth 13-15 centimeters;
4. When immersing a seedling in the ground, it is necessary to ensure that the root collar is flush with the ground. Otherwise, the plant will soon die;
5. The last step will be abundant watering and mulching of the plantings.

Planting and growing strawberries is a fairly simple process; the main thing is to follow all the rules and carry out preparatory measures on time.

Technology and secrets of caring for strawberries for a good harvest

Watering

Strawberry care includes many aspects. There are no technologies or secrets to obtain the harvest. It is enough to comply step by step instructions on planting and propagation, plant within the acceptable time frame and care for it properly. First of all, it is necessary water the plants correctly, that is, the soil should not be allowed to become waterlogged or dry out.

Experienced gardeners recommend watering strawberries after planting and flowering, while picking berries, in late summer and early autumn. One bush will use 1 liter of warm water. Immediately after watering, the plantings are mulched with a 7-8 centimeter layer of humus.

Fertilizers and fertilizers

According to the following scheme:

1. In early spring, during the formation of leaves and after harvesting, the bushes are fertilized with nitrogen-containing fertilizers;
2. At the end of August and beginning of September, fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is carried out;
3. Before flowering and after harvesting, plantings are fertilized with a solution of manure, humus or wood ash.

Under no circumstances should strawberries be fed with fertilizers that contain chlorine.

Protection from diseases and pests

Beds with strawberries are necessary regularly weed and loosen. This procedure will be a good prevention of fungal diseases.

In case if gray mold After all, the plant has been affected; in order to get rid of it, before flowering begins, the plantings are watered with an iodine solution, a teaspoon of which is diluted in 10 liters of water. The procedure is repeated after 7-10 days.

To prevent diseases during flowering and after harvesting, the following treatments are carried out:

• fungal diseases - “Fitosporin”;
• spotting and gray rot - copper oxychloride;
• powdery mildew - 2 tablespoons of potassium permanganate, diluted in 10 liters of water.

During the entire growing season from the bushes remove mustache, this will contribute to the formation of a larger and more attractive harvest. After picking the berries, it is necessary to trim off the entire green part of the plants, leaving only a few lower leaves.

Plantings must be renewed every 3-4 years.

Preparing for winter

When growing strawberries in areas with harsh and unpredictable climates, you should take care of plant protection for the winter. In order for the shrub to tolerate cold temperatures well, it should choose climate-resistant varieties.

To prepare the plant for winter, it water generously and mulch with straw. With the onset of the first frost, the plantings are covered with spruce branches, film, agrofibre or any other available means. If the winter has little snow, then you need to add additional snow to the ridges.

The subtleties of growing sweet and aromatic berries

In order to grow a harvest of tasty and juicy berries, you need to follow some rules:

1. It's best to choose zoned and tested varieties, caring for which will not bring any particular difficulties;
2. For getting good harvest It is very important to adhere to the agricultural technology of growing strawberries, namely, to follow the rules of the neighborhood, to carefully approach the plant’s growing location and planting. It is also very important to correctly and feed and water on time bushes;
3. Weeds take a large amount of nutrients from strawberries, so they need to be removed as soon as possible;
4. Effective and timely disease control will help maintain the quality and quantity of the crop;
5. The mustache depletes the plant, causing the berries to become smaller and total the harvest is falling. To maintain fruiting it is recommended remove shoots regularly strawberries

Growing strawberries on your own plot is the dream of almost every gardener. In order to bring it to life, you must adhere to all the rules for cultivating the plant and not neglect the advice of experienced gardeners.

The first thing you need to decide is why you need strawberries, for yourself or for sale. If you grow only for your own needs, then it is best to give preference to domestic selection - the berries will be much tastier and do not require special care, but their size is an order of magnitude smaller.

For sale, it would be best to grow strawberries of Dutch and American selection - a very large mass of fruit, but the taste is always inferior to our strawberries.

Among the main varieties bred in Europe, the following are very popular:

• Queen Elizabeth– the variety is unpretentious to the soil, grows even on sandy and clayey soils, has a very high yield – it bears fruit twice a season, and the second time is no worse than the first in terms of the number of berries collected and their weight. The only big disadvantage of the variety is that the berries are very juicy, but have a “sourness”, which does not satisfy the requirements of many buyers. This is why it is grown Queen Elizabeth exclusively for our own needs and for lovers of such berries. Goes well with jam if you add more sugar.
• Zenga Zengana- a very good German variety, which in many European countries is No. 1 in the garden beds of summer residents. Its main advantage is that it is excellent for freezing. It bears fruit well, but the first berries are large, up to 80 grams per berry, and the subsequent ones are very small, so often only the first “wave” of the harvest is harvested.
• Honey– despite its name, the berry has very little resemblance to honey, since it has “sourness” even at the stage of technical ripeness. The biggest “plus” of this variety is transportability. These strawberries can be transported over long distances, they lie very well and do not lose either their external aesthetics or their properties. The berries are small, but the bushes bear fruit well.

These are the most famous varieties that are planted in Russia, but are the result of plant selection in Europe and America. As for domestic varieties, there are many of them, but only a few are especially popular, namely:

• Daryonka– very tasty and large berries. The main advantage is early ripeness, the first berries weigh up to 40-50 grams, subsequent ones weigh 15-20 g. It has a strawberry flavor when fully technically ripe, very sweet and juicy. Berries can be different shapes depending on the amount of light and fertilizer.
• Marvelous- an excellent variety of Leningrad selection, has a very powerful bush, large and dry berries, which are very convenient to transport. The advantages include the increased sweetness of the variety, its resistance to frost and drought, as well as long-term fruiting - the berries ripen evenly for several months in a row. Despite the fact that the plant is very fond of pests, the work to eliminate them will be generously rewarded with a good harvest!
• Maryshka. The main advantages of the variety are: the driest berry of all known in Russia. It is very well stored and transported, and its taste is superior to many well-known domestic and foreign varieties - the berries are extremely sweet, taste like strawberries and have a strong smell. Does not require special care and watering, unlike Daryonki And Marvelous.

A lot depends on the variety, in particular the yield of your berries and their sweetness. But it is worth remembering that the taste is largely influenced by berry care and watering. Even the best variety will have a “sourness” if it is constantly filled with water and a lot of foliar fertilizers are used, and if there is a lack of moisture, the berries will be very small and irregular shape, but extremely sweet. It is necessary to provide the plant with an optimal ratio of moisture and fertilizers, and only then will the berries be large and tasty.

Planting seedlings correctly

After you have chosen the strawberry seedlings and brought them to the place, it’s time to plant them. The process must be given due attention, because how you place the bushes will directly determine not only the yield, but also the possibility of subsequent processing and propagation of strawberries.

When landing, you must adhere to the following rules:

1. Plant strawberries only in rows or cells, especially if you place several varieties at once in one area. This is necessary in order not to confuse the bushes when they throw out tendrils, to conveniently weed during fruiting, and also to collect strawberries without damaging new bushes. It grows very much and one bush (if you are engaged in propagating strawberries, and not getting a harvest in the first year) can occupy up to 1 m2 of area!
2. Plant seedlings only with the soil in which they were previously. You can first place the roots in water for a couple of hours to absorb as much moisture as possible. After planting, be sure to fill the hole with water.– strawberries are sensitive to drought in the first days and often disappear if the soil is not properly moistened immediately.
3. Plant in holes or make furrows for water, so that when watering, water collects under the roots and saturates the soil with moisture as much as possible.
4. Do not damage the roots, do not cut them, and do not carry out any operations that violate the integrity of the plant - you must first let the roots strengthen for 1 week, then weed, loosen, and the like.

Proper planting is already half the battle, since strawberries are resistant to droughts, pests and other troubles, but are very sensitive to any changes during planting or replanting. As for the temperature, it is necessary to plant when the thermometer shows at least +7 0 C at night, since the roots need to quickly strengthen and grow, and at temperatures below this there is a risk of the plant dying immediately after planting.

Strawberries in the country - care and weed control

Caring for strawberries is quite difficult. More precisely, it is labor-intensive, since you will have to carry out certain actions almost every week to improve the conditions for the growth and development of bushes. First of all, Special attention devoted to weeds. They can be dealt with in several ways:

1. Weeding and pulling out weeds is the most common method and involves manual labor. Suitable for small strawberry plots. We must ensure that the strawberries are as clean as possible and that nothing interferes with their development. Even in the absence of weeds, it is necessary to carry out periodic weeding - it kills the “threads” (remnants of the root system of weeds and young seedlings that are contained in the upper ball of soil and suck out nutrients).
2. Agrofibre or black film. It's relative new technology, involves covering the entire area with film or special black fiber through which light does not pass. Weeds do not grow, and in place of the bushes a hole is made through which the bush extends out. Thus, only the strawberries have access to light. Advantages of this method:

• the berries are not in the ground, they are always clean;
• more moisture accumulates, strawberries need to be watered less often;
• Weeds do not need to be eliminated - they do not grow under the film.

1. Pesticide. This method involves treatment with continuous herbicides, such as Hurricane or Roundup before planting strawberries, but we will not consider it, since any pesticides have a bad effect on human health.

Watering also plays important role. If you can’t make a drip, you need to provide watering using sprayers. Make sure that the top layer of soil is constantly moist. It is best to water at night or in the evening, about once every 3-4 days.

Strawberries love the sun, but if there is too much sun, the leaves can “burn.” They become orange color. If possible, you need to cover the area with a “shade” - a special mesh that reduces the amount of light transmitted to the area.

Growing technique “for tendrils” and “for berries”

If you are starting to grow strawberries, you must immediately decide what you want to get this year. The yield of strawberries directly depends on the number of tendrils (the reproductive organs of strawberries). If there are a lot of tendrils, do not expect a good harvest, since all the energy of the plant will be spent on throwing out additional shoots and forming new bushes. If you cut off the tendrils before the end of the bush’s fruiting, you will not get healthy and strong new bushes for the winter.

There is only one way out - to divide the area and choose the bushes that you will have for fruiting, and others for propagation. The first bushes (on which you plan to grow large berries) should be absolutely without tendrils - they should be plucked off immediately when they appear and the plant should not be allowed to waste on them nutrients. It is best to leave no more than 10 berries on each bush in the first year - then they will be large, juicy and sweet. At large quantities The bush will not have enough energy to bear fruit, and the strawberries will be small.

Other bushes that you plan to propagate should be left without berries so that the tendrils develop faster. After a new bush (2-3 pairs of leaves) appears at the end of the tendril and it bends to the ground, it must be stuck a little into the soil and filled with plenty of water. After a few weeks, when the bush takes root, a shoot will grow from it - it needs to be cut off with pruners so that the first bush develops better. As a result, at the end of September you will already have another full-fledged bush, the same size as the first. That’s it, you can cut it off from the “mother” with pruning shears and transplant it to the place you need. When replanting, it is better to dig it up and pull it out of the soil with the soil in which the root has strengthened - the bush will take root much faster.

Treating strawberries against pests and diseases - what you need and what you shouldn’t do

Strawberries practically do not suffer from the invasion of any pests; their diseases are largely caused by a lack of fertilizers or abundant sunlight.

In any case, you should remember what not to do when growing strawberries:

• Never treat with strong pesticides, as many harmful components then remain in the plant and berries. There are more gentle ways to eliminate insects: treatment copper sulfate, soap solution, salt mixture - it does not harm humans, but insects will never attack treated bushes!
• Do not use any preparations containing acids or fertilizers. Do not use orthophosphorus granules, additives containing sulfur and other similar components.
• During processing BI-58 or derivative pesticides, make sure that harvesting is carried out no earlier than 2 weeks after the last treatment.

Very often, strawberries turn yellow and lag behind in development - this is the first sign that the plant is receiving too much sunlight or lack of fertilizer. If it is not possible to make a shadow over the strawberries, just water them every day in the evening and, after watering, apply foliar fertilizers, preferably urea (30 g/1 bucket). As soon as the bush turns green, stop feeding.

Brown spot is a major problem when growing strawberries. Old leaves of the bush have brown spots, and then completely become this color. These bushes reproduce and bear fruit very poorly. Processing in progress Byleton(15 g/10 l of water) after the plants flower, the spotting will disappear in 1-2 weeks.

White spotting - both young and old leaves are affected by it, white spots are formed. Soon these spots can destroy the leaf blade, and the plant’s metabolism will stop. Processing is also carried out Byleton(15 g/10 l of water) immediately after flowering and 2-3 weeks after the first spraying.

Powdery mildew. Many varieties of strawberries are exposed to it, as a result of which the leaf blade curls into a tube, and there is a white coating. The leaves soon die, the bush lags behind in development, and in some cases dries out completely.

What needs to be done with berries before winter and how to protect the bushes from freezing at -30 0 C?

Preparing a plant for the winter is quite simple and does not require any special knowledge or effort. The main thing is that the plant does not become icy or frozen, otherwise there is a high probability of its death. If the winter is snowy and snow falls before the ground cools to -10 0 C, then there will be no problems at all, and strawberries can easily wait out long frosts of 30-40 degrees under a white carpet. But you shouldn’t rely on weather conditions, and it’s better to protect your crop from freezing. This can be done in the following ways:

1. Covering strawberries with pine needles. The most effective method, which involves throwing a layer of 6-7 centimeters of needles on top of strawberry leaves that have bent down to the ground for the winter. Such a shelter will reliably protect the plant from any frost, and under the snow the strawberries will be even warmer.
2. Wood sawdust. At any woodworking plant, you can take a lot of sawdust for pennies and cover the entire strawberry plot with it. They will not only protect her from the cold, but will also become excellent fertilizer, after the wood rots under the spring rains. In spring, the “blanket” can be removed from the bushes with a rake and left between the rows.
3. Sprinkle with soil. The method is very labor-intensive, since in the spring you will have to pull each bush out of the ground, clean it, and level the ground.

If you do everything correctly and follow the instructions, you will not only get tasty and large berries in a couple of months, but also multiply the bushes and get 4-5 times more plants the next year! Growing tasty and healthy berries at home is not only easy, but also pleasant, since they are natural and healthy!