What kind of cutter for chamfering timber. Planed timber houses

Technology for assembling a log frame for a house or bathhouse

Organization of a workplace for assembling walls

To ensure the work progresses, the beams are laid out in a stack at a distance of 5-6 meters from the building on one or, better yet, both sides. Each layer of beams in a stack is placed on spacers made of boards.

Next to the stack will be equipped workplace for marking and cutting beams. A variant of such a workplace is shown in the figure.

It is convenient to mark the timber using a template at a height of 0.9 - 1.1 meters in the marking area, node A in the figure. After marking, the timber is lowered onto low pads into the cutting area. In this position, it is convenient and safe to saw the timber chain saw.

The cut timber is lifted onto the wall. To facilitate the ascent, slopes are arranged - inclined beams, whose upper end rests on the upper crown of the log house. The timber is moved along the slopes using a rope.

Wedge-shaped stops are nailed to the slopes, which make lifting the beam safer. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to get by with little force. Even one person can, if necessary, lift the beam, fixing it with stops at intermediate points.

It is most convenient to carry out work on assembling a log frame from timber with a team of four people. You can work together, but the work will just go slower.

Scaffolding is constructed to install the upper rims of the log house and the roof.

Three-tier scaffolding on the gable of the house. 1 — extreme racks; 2 - L-shaped scaffolding stand of the first tier on the side facade; 3 - flooring; 4 — central racks; 5 — cruciform braces (shown conditionally); 6 - bosses

The assembly of the upper crowns of the log house is carried out from the level of the first tier. The flooring of the first tier is laid on L-shaped racks, pos. 2 in the picture. The racks are installed around the walls of the house and attached to the walls using bosses, pos. 6.

At the stage of constructing the roof (attic), on the facades where the installation of pediments is necessary, scaffolding has to be made in three tiers. To construct scaffolding racks, boards 50 x 150 are used. mm. Flooring is made from the same boards.

Working from scaffolding is more convenient, faster and safer than from ladders - don’t forget about this.

Marking beams for wall assembly

Practical construction experience shows that it is not realistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints.

Before starting work, draw a diagram of the assembly of the walls of the house, which indicates: the serial number of the crown, the type connecting element at the ends of the workpieces, the position of the openings in the wall.

An example of a house wall assembly diagram is shown in the figure:

Scheme for marking corner joints of timber and joints of parts of longitudinal walls, for a house with overall dimensions 6x9 meters. A And WITH- longitudinal walls; D And B- transverse walls; E- internal wall made of timber - partition; 1 - joints of beams.

For the house shown in the diagram, each crown consists of 7 pieces of beams ranging in length from 3 to 6 m.

The crown of the longitudinal wall consists of two parts: the main beam standard length 6 meters and extension, 3 meters long. On one crown, long beams are laid on the left, and extensions on the right. On the next crown, installation begins in a similar order, but on the right.

The parts of the crown of the transverse wall and the partition are made from one beam of a standard length of 6 meters.

To eliminate cold bridges in external walls, the joints of the beams of the longitudinal wall, item 1, are made by making vertical cuts “into the floor of the tree” with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The timber in the corners of the crowns is connected into a dressing with a root tenon (see below for more details).

How to correctly and quickly mark tenons, grooves and other profiles, ensure identical dimensions of lumber blanks?

The easiest way to do this is using templates. The template is placed on the beam and the outline of the template profiles is transferred to the surface of the beam with a marker.

It’s more convenient, faster to mark and it will be less mistakes, if the template completely follows the contour of the part and has the same length as the part being marked. I placed the template on the timber and immediately transferred all the dimensions and profiles to the workpiece.

For our example, we will need to make seven templates, corresponding to the number of parts in the crown. One template is used to mark two mirrored wall parts.

If you think about it, the number of templates can be reduced. Let's look at how to make universal templates for marking parts of the longitudinal walls of a house (see above for the wall assembly diagram).

Two templates (highlighted brightly) yellow) for marking the beams of longitudinal walls. 4 — groove for the main tenon; 5 - groove for tenon interior wall; 6 - sample; 7 - finishing beam.

The picture above shows the template for marking the main beam in the crown, in which the extension is located on the right. On the wall marking diagram, these are crowns A1, A3, A5 and C1, C3, C5.

Bottom template serves for marking the main beam in the crowns with extension on the left - A2, A4, A6 and C2, C4, C6.

The templates are the same at first glance, but differ in that the grooves, item 5, for connecting to the partition, are located in different places in the templates.

The same templates are used to mark the parts of the extensions. To do this, on the templates at points b And With drilled through holes, and at points A And d cuts are made.

To mark the extension, the template is placed on the beam and points are made on the surface of the workpiece through holes and cuts.

Remember this technique when making holes in the template. This will help you create universal templates in many other cases.

The templates are made from planed inch boards.

As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from seven to three (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse walls). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to prepare parts for transverse walls and partitions.

Now let's look at how templates are used. To mark the first beam of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is laid on the beam and the end of the template on the left is outlined with a marker, then two grooves and, finally, a recess for the connection “into the floor of the tree”. The marked timber is transferred to the cutting site, where unnecessary fragments (it is better to mark them out)
hatch) are cut with a chain saw.

How to mark parts with spikes? Obviously, the tenon and groove are elements of the same unit, which means they must match each other in size and location. In a part with a tenon, a tenon is marked in place of the groove.

If the groove dimensions are 5×5 cm, then the spike should have dimensions - 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The gap is filled with inter-crown insulation.

The template profile is transferred to the upper edge of the beam. The markings are transferred to the vertical edge of the beam using a square. Accurate cuts are made using these markings.

How to assemble smooth walls from timber of different widths

The technical conditions (TS) for the manufacture of timber allow deviations in the size of the timber in one direction or another from the standard value specified in the documents.

If the purchase documents indicate standard sizes timber, for example, section 150x150 mm. and length is 6 meters, then the actual dimensions will differ from the standard.

Each beam in a batch of timber brought to the construction site will differ from the dimensions indicated in the documents by several millimeters. The cross-sectional dimensions and length of the bars will be different.

The variation in sizes must be taken into account when developing templates, marking timber and assembling walls.

How to collect smooth walls, if the timber is different in width and length?

b— minimum beam width; delta b- the difference between a narrow and wide beam.

Obviously from timber different widths, you can make only one surface of the wall flat - either from the outside or from the inside of the building.

If they want to make the outside wall of the house smooth, then All beams in the wall are aligned along the outer edge. Then, inside the house, wide beams will protrude from the wall by the amount of “delta b"(the difference between narrow and wide bars). Alignment along the outer edge leads to an increase in gaps in the corner joint of the beams (see figure).

If the beams in the wall are aligned along the inner edge, then the “steps” from the protruding beams will already be on the outer surface of the wall. The outside of the wall is usually sheathed. And if you chamfer the outer edges of the timber, then the steps on the wall will be invisible even without cladding. Corner connections the beams are more dense and “warm”.

How and with what to connect the crowns of a log house

Each crown of the log house is connected to the lower crown with metal or wooden dowels. The dowels are placed at a distance of approximately 250-300 mm from the end of the beam and then every 1-1.5 meters of the length of the beam.

Each detail of the crown is secured with at least two dowels. The length of the dowel must be at least 1.5 times greater than the height of the beam.

cm., pos. 1.

Round steel dowels with a diameter of 6-8 mm.- pins with a pointed end or nails (6x200-250 mm), simply hammer into the beams of the crowns, option a on the image.

The upper ends of dowels made of any material must be buried into the timber by 2-4 cm. If this is not done, then when the timber dries and the log house shrinks, the dowels will be higher than the timber and will lift the upper crown. A large gap forms between the crowns.

For the same reason Driven pins cannot be made from reinforcing steel. The corrugated surface of such dowels will keep the crown beams from moving when the log house shrinks, even if the dowel is buried into the timber. The crowns will simply hang on such dowels.

Small-diameter steel hammer-in dowels cannot always provide the necessary wall rigidity, especially with long wall spans. Their use can be recommended for small buildings - for example, baths. To increase the rigidity of walls large buildings it is necessary to install dowels of increased diameter.

Steel dowels with a diameter of 10 millimeters or more, as well as wooden dowels, are inserted into pre-drilled holes in the timber. The diameter of the holes is made slightly smaller than the diameter of the dowel.

When the dowel fits tightly into the hole, the rigidity of the wall increases, but the risk that the dowels will interfere with the shrinkage of the frame increases.

Wooden dowels with a diameter of 25-30 mm Convenient to cut from round cuttings for tools. Such cuttings are made from hardwood. It is recommended to chamfer the lower end of the dowel - it will be easier to drive the dowel into the hole.

Can be cut from regular board"inch" dowels square section 25x25 mm. One end of the workpiece is chamfered. Such pins are driven into a hole made with a drill with a diameter of 24 mm.

The ribs of such a dowel are made of relatively “soft” coniferous wood when hammered in, they crumple, the wood becomes compacted, ensuring a fairly tight fit of the dowel in the hole.

How to properly drill holes in timber for dowels

The depth of the holes in the wall for installing dowels must exceed at least 4 cm. dowel length. Moreover, the hole must be free of chips.

For drilling holes in timber that are deep enough and large diameter, a low-speed electric drill (drill) is usually used. The passport of a power tool usually indicates what diameter of drilling in a particular material the drill is designed for. Given the large drilling depth, it is better to choose a drill with a power reserve.

To drill holes in timber, it is convenient to equip the drill with a stop, as shown in the figure.

The stop block is attached to the drill with steel clamps.

Emphasis, in the form wooden block, attached to the drill, for example, with clamps. The stop stops drilling at the required depth, but the rotation of the drill does not stop after that. Continuing to rotate in one place, the drill clears the hole from chips, grinds in and then easily comes out of the deep hole.

It is convenient to drill holes for connecting the crowns in a beam that is already installed on the wall in the design position on interventional insulation. But here it's usual A problem arises - the crown gasket cannot be drilled. The fibers of the spacer material simply wrap around the drill bit and clamp it.

You have to install the beam on the wall in two steps. First, the timber is mounted without a gasket and temporarily secured from displacement, for example, with nails. Drill holes for dowels. Then the timber is moved from the wall and inter-crown insulation is laid.

At drilling sites cut the gasket with a sharp knife. Then, the removed beam is put back in place, this time on the gasket, and secured with dowels.

Drilling holes in timber laid on a wall should be done while standing on solid foundation- scaffolding, scaffolding, flooring. Stand on narrow wall and drilling is dangerous. The drill can “bite”, a powerful drill will turn around and easily throw the worker off the wall.

How to make a straight wall from crooked timber

Some of the timber delivered to the construction site may be bent. The beam can have a curvature in one plane, or it can be twisted with a screw and become diamond-shaped in cross-section.

If possible, it is better not to use curved beams for the walls of a house or bathhouse. It is recommended to cut beams with curvature into smaller pieces and use them in other, less critical places.

A small amount of timber that has curvature in one plane can be used to mount walls. You should not lay such a beam into a wall with its convexity up or down, in the hope that it will straighten under the weight of the house - the beam will not straighten, even if it is placed in the lower crowns.

The curved beam is laid in the wall, straightening it in a horizontal plane as shown in the figure.

The crooked beam is straightened sequentially by fixing it with dowels

The curved beam is drilled, aligning it with the straight beam at the drilling points. After laying the inter-crown insulation, the curved beam is fixed with dowels at one end and, when unbent, is sequentially fixed with dowels at other points.

Unbending the beam does not require much effort. A lever and bracket will help make work easier

Inter-crown gasket - insulation, sealant

For cold protection, a gasket is placed between the crowns. Previously, moss or flax tow were used for this. Currently, special cushioning materials based on flax wool or flax jute are available for sale. The material is sold in the form of a roll of tape with a width of 20 cm.

A strip of cushioning material is laid along the entire upper edge of the beam in two or three layers and secured with staples using a construction stapler.

If the wall is not sheathed, then the gasket should be 1-2 inches from the outer edge of the beam. cm., otherwise it will get wet.

Some craftsmen lay the cushioning material in one layer and suggest caulking the joints after the frame shrinks, adding additional material to the voids of the joints. In this option we have less consumption of cushioning material.

The work of caulking joints is quite labor-intensive and tedious. It is better to immediately lay a thicker sealant, in several layers (three layers), to eliminate the need to caulk horizontal joints.

How to control the correct assembly of a log house

During the construction of a house or bathhouse, it is necessary to regularly check the correct assembly of the log frame. To do this, it is enough to control the following five parameters:

• Verticality of corners.
• The height of corners and walls.
• Horizontality of the crowns and upper edges of the timber.
• Straightness of walls.
• The quality of installation of inter-crown insulation.

For control of vertical angles The following method is used.

To control the verticality of the angle, a vertical line is applied on each side of the crown. 1 - lower trim; 2 - crowns; 3 — control lines; 4 - base.

On each side of the crown, a vertical line is drawn at the same distance from the corner edge.

At correct installation For crowns, this line should be straight and coincide with the vertical. The verticality of the line is checked with a plumb line.

If deviations are found, the work is suspended and the cause is eliminated.

The height of corners and walls is measured roulette. The measurement is taken from the base horizontal line, which is applied to the strapping beam using a water level.

Horizontality of crowns and top faces timber is checked by level.

Straightness of walls determined visually by pulling a cord along the wall.

The verticality and height of the corners should be especially carefully and constantly checked. Deviations from verticality are eliminated, up to the replacement of the timber in the crown. The height of the corners is adjusted by increasing the thickness of the gasket between the rims in the sagging corners. Sometimes it helps if you tap a sledgehammer on a beam in a high corner.

The quality and thickness of the installation of inter-crown insulation is checked visually by inspecting the walls.

Window and door openings in a log house

From the second crown they begin to form doorways. The distance from the floor level to the window is chosen in the range of 70 - 90 cm.

Laying timber in crowns in the area of ​​openings has its own characteristics.

A - layout of openings in the wall, where: 1 - wall; 2 - door opening; 3 - pier; 4 - window opening. V — diagram of timber cutting, where c is the remainder of the cutting. G - option for constructing an opening in a log house with the installation of temporary fastening bars, item 7. d - option with installation of decks in the opening, item 6 - we immediately get an opening ready for installing a door or window.

In practice, two options are used for forming openings when assembling a log house.

One option is " G" on the image. The opening is made in draft, only preparations are made to create an opening. The opening is not prepared for the installation of doors and windows immediately when assembling the log house. This work is left for later - usually done after the frame has shrunk.

This option allows you to speed up the assembly work of the log house. Beams must be installed in the opening to fasten the partition to the log house, item 7 in the figure. At least two such beams are installed in the doorway.

During the shrinkage of the log house, the piers can “lead” inward or outward. To prevent this, timber in the walls is fastened with vertically installed boards.

In another version - " d"in the figure, the openings are immediately prepared for the installation of doors and windows. To do this, install decks (windows) in the openings - vertical beam with groove, item 6 in the figure. The tenon of the wall beam fits into the groove. In this way, the partition beam is fixed from displacement. In this option, the openings are immediately ready for the installation of doors and windows.

Decks (windows) traditionally serve not only to connect timber in the opening, but also serve as window slopes, window sills. To do this, they are carefully processed and chamfered.

Option for installing a window in a wall made of timber: 1 - finishing the window slopes; 2 - a vertical frame board with a tenon strip, fits into the groove of the wall beam; 3 — plastic window frame; 4 - sealing tape PSUL

IN modern conditions, during installation plastic windows and the installation of plastic slopes and window sills, decks (jambs) can be omitted. The beams in the opening are fastened like this. At the ends of the beams along the entire length of the opening, a vertical groove is cut out and a rail is inserted there, which secures the pier beams from displacement.

The length of the deck (plug) or slats should be less than the height of the opening by 5-7 cm so as not to interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.

Timber for home, bathhouse in your city

Beam. Natural humidity. Edged. Log house made of timber.

How to properly install windows in a timber wall

If the opening in the wall was made in draft form (see above), then the installation of the window begins with cutting out the opening under right size. To do this, a lath is filled along the edge of the cut, item 2 in the figure, and the beams are sawed off along the edge of the lath with a chain saw.

Correct installation windows in the wall made of timber. 1 - wall; 2 - rail; 3 - platband; 4 - window; 5 - window box; 6 - wall beam above the window; 7 — interventional insulation; 8 — shrinkage gap above the window and deck; 9 — window frames; 10 - wall beam (pier); 11 - deck; 12 - nail.

Then circular saw Spikes are cut out at the ends of the wall beams (piers). The deck, pos. 11, is placed on the tenons, pos. 10, with a groove. The joints are sealed with insulation. The deck is nailed to the wall beam with nails driven in at an angle, pos. 12. This way the nails will not interfere with the shrinkage of the frame.

A window frame is inserted into the opening prepared in this way, which is attached to the deck with self-tapping screws. Above window frame be sure to leave a gap, pos. 8, to compensate for the shrinkage of the log house. Gap size 5-7 cm. The gap is filled with soft insulating material.

An expansion gap must also be left above the upper end of the deck.

Openings are prepared in the same way and doors are inserted into the walls made of timber.

After completing the assembly of the first floor of the house, the log house is covered with beams of interfloor or attic (if the building is one-story) floor.

Can be structural element. And they can also perform an independent function.

The next page describes the structure of a broken roof of a house made of timber, where the floor beams at the same time serve as an element power frame mansard roof.

Watch the video clip, which describes and shows in some detail the technology for installing a log house from construction timber.

Alexander

Good afternoon Please tell us, for what purpose, when constructing a log house from timber, is the timber chamfered? What bevel size is recommended for 100 x 150 mm timber? Is it necessary to chamfer from all 4 ribs or is it enough from 2? If it is enough to chamfer from 2 ribs, then please describe which side (outer or inner, upper or lower) of the beam?

Answer to the question

Correctly made chamfer

The chamfer on a wooden beam is removed for two reasons: firstly, so that water does not flow into the cracks between the beams, and secondly, to make it more convenient to caulk the cracks in the wall. I think that you yourself should understand where to chamfer. WITH outside The chamfer should be removed only from the upper edge, because if you remove the chamfer from the lower one, then water will flow into the inter-crown insulation even more. And it will rot pretty quickly. WITH inside You can chamfer from one, only the top, or from two edges. It is more convenient for you and depends on the type of insulation used. The size of the bevel is not standardized, it primarily depends on the caulking tools used. The illustration shows proper chamfering. If you are additionally going to cover some kind of timber external finishing, then you don’t have to make chamfers at all. But the choice, as always, is yours.

You can chamfer the board different ways. The most common of them are two: using manual and automatic tools. Negative side of the application hand tools(various planes) is considered high degree danger of injury, as well as a catastrophically low pace of work. Of course, automatic and semi-automatic milling cutters are ideal for these purposes.

On the website http://www.zaoportal.ru/product/view/111 you can purchase a professional chamfering machine. The main reason The reason why home craftsmen avoid purchasing such equipment is the apparent difficulty of operation. In fact, setting up and using it for its intended purpose does not cause any difficulties even for a novice user.

Initially, it is important to choose suitable type cutters. There are several types of chamfers. Choose the one that suits your specific task. The suitable cutter is not always included in the set with the router.

But acquiring it will not be difficult. Milling cutters of this kind are freely available in tool stores and cost pennies.

Preparing the milling cutter for work is as follows:

• a hose from a vacuum cleaner is placed in the waste removal socket;
• the cutter position is adjusted;
• the router is fixed in a given position;
• horizontal guides are installed.

The addition of a vacuum cleaner makes working much easier. When processing wood, there is virtually no waste left.

Initially, the cutter height adjustment head must be turned until it clicks. The depth regulator is pulled down 3 mm. Then it lowers onto the head. Thus, we obtain the “zero” position of the cutter.

Now, by rotating the height adjustment head, you can quickly and without much difficulty change the position of the cutter by 5, 10 mm.

The router guides should also be adjusted for correct chamfering. This is achieved quite simply - it is only important to tighten the nuts on the guides until the router slides along the surface being processed, as if on rails.

Typically, when planing wooden blocks or narrow boards, it is often necessary to chamfer small size from the edges of the workpiece, in order to reduce the sharpness of the corners, as well as make them more beautiful. To do this under normal conditions, you have to hold the workpiece with the plane at angles of about 45 degrees, which is not particularly convenient, especially when you are working with an electric plane, which is many times heavier than a manual one. Decide this problem you can use your own special device, which will look like a longitudinal corner, where the block will be placed, which will be processed in the future, and its edge will be located at the top, which is convenient for processing.

This arrangement of the workpiece in a homemade device will also help for planing faceted and round bars, as well as wooden handles, which are inconvenient to process on a flat surface. The author of the homemade product thought about making such a device, since the need for it arose when he was planing blanks for shovel handles, because with such a device the work was completed faster, and it was also much more convenient to work this way.

In order to make this device, you need:
Two wooden planks 2 cm thick, 4 cm wide, and 6 cm wide, and 2 m long.
Wood plank 2 cm thick, 5 cm wide, and 50 cm long.
Wood screws 4x50 mm.
Drawing and measuring tools (pencil, tape measure and square).
Awl.
Jigsaw with saw blade figured cutting.
Electric drill-screwdriver.
Metal drill with a diameter of 4 mm.
Spherical cutter for wood.
Cross (curly) bit RN2, for driving screws.
Sandpaper.

When all the materials and tools are available, then you can begin the most interesting part, this assembly process.

Step one.
First of all, you need to decide on the dimensions, you can use the dimensions given here, but if your workpiece has big sizes, then we simply increase the size of the milestones components until necessary. Using a pencil, we mark a plank 6 cm wide, then using a screwdriver and a drill, we drill holes along its entire length, on one side there are 5 or 6 holes for screws, as a rule, the more, the better, and more reliable.

Step two.
Having positioned the plank on the opposite side, using a countersink installed in a screwdriver chuck, we increase the dimensions for the screw heads, using a spherical wood cutter.

After we have enlarged the holes for the caps, we insert screws into these holes and screw our plank to the end of another 4 cm wide plank.

What should happen at this stage can be seen in the photo, this is the so-called wooden corner, its length is 2 m, made so that there is a reserve in length used in processing workpieces, thereby increasing the range of application, since you do not have to combine the sizes of either small or large devices, and it is easier and more practical to make one, but longer .

Step three.
Using a jigsaw, we cut out a smaller piece from a board that will supporting part, with which the device will be held on a flat surface, this process requires sufficient precision and accuracy; for better accuracy, use a special corner stand on the jigsaw, which will help in creating even cuts. When working with a jigsaw, be extremely careful and do not forget to wear safety glasses and gloves, protecting yourself from accidental contact with sawdust and wood dust, as well as protecting yourself from the tool slipping out of your hands.

Step four.
The previous workpiece, whose role is to hold our corner part, must be drawn, the lines should correspond to an angle of 45 degrees, as on the main part, for a better match, attach the future support and outline it with a pencil. To secure it, you need to drill holes for the screws, in this case there will be three of them, which is quite enough, we select the drill according to the diameter of the screws so that the thread passes without difficulty.

Step five.
Then we tighten the screws with a screwdriver, that is, we screw this workpiece to the end of our corner device, try not to overdo it with the tightening force, so as not to damage the support and form a crack in it.

The remaining part of the strip will also be useful; we make the same blanks from it using a jigsaw; you will need two of these.

We supplement the corner with two more supports, which will make it much more stable, and it will also gain more workload, which is also important during processing. We screw them in the same way as the first support.
Step six.
The back of the device must be drilled on each side; we use a screwdriver with a drill whose diameter is equal to the thickness of the screw; for strength, we make two holes on each side to prevent rotation.

The location of the holes, as in the previous stages, must be processed with a spherical wood cutter in order to recess the screw heads and thereby eliminate accidental snagging.

Step seven.
Armed with a screwdriver and a bat attachment for driving screws, we tighten the screws into the workpieces.

Next we move on to more precise processing, for this we will use sandpaper, as usual, we start with a coarser one, gradually reducing the grain size as we approach the finish of grinding.
This is our homemade device done, now let's look at it from all sides for a full assessment.
This is what the back looks like.

And so the front part.

After you make such a device, you will have the opportunity to process bars without any difficulties or inconveniences, be it wooden handle, then the workpiece has square edges.

A device with a workpiece for processing.

An easy-to-manufacture device for chamfering wooden blocks and narrow boards, as well as for planing and other types of processing of round or faceted wooden blanks.

When planing wooden blocks and narrow boards, it is almost always necessary to remove small chamfers from the ribs in order to blunt them to one degree or another. However, to do this you have to hold the plane obliquely, at about a 45-degree angle, which is not always convenient, especially when working with electric planes.

You can get out of this situation if you do special device in the form of a long longitudinal angle into which the processed block would be placed and thus the edge from which the chamfer needs to be chamfered would be on top.

In addition, such a device could also be used for planing faceted and round wooden blanks (for example, handles for garden tools: shovels, forks, rakes, etc.), which are very inconvenient to plan on a flat surface.

I thought about making such a device just when I was planing blanks for shovel handles (see my article “”), since with such a device my work would have gone much easier and faster.

As a result, I decided to make this device, for which I needed the following accessories:

Materials and fasteners:
Two wooden planks 2 cm thick, 4 cm wide, and 6 cm wide, and 2 m long.
Wooden plank 2 cm thick, 5 cm wide, and 50 cm long.
Wood screws 4x50 mm.

Tools:
Drawing and measuring tools (pencil, tape measure and square).
Awl.
A jigsaw with a file for curved cutting.
Electric drill-screwdriver.
Metal drill with a diameter of 4 mm.
Spherical cutter for wood.
Screwdriver bit RN2, for driving screws.
Sandpaper.

Operating procedure

First, we mark a 6 cm wide plank and drill along its entire length, with 5 or 6 holes for screws on one side.

On the opposite side of the plank, we countersink these holes for the screw heads using a spherical wood cutter.

Then we insert screws into these holes and screw our plank to the end of another 4 cm wide plank.

As a result, we get this wooden corner 2 m long.

After that, using a jigsaw, we cut out such a blank from a short strip.

It will serve as a stopper for planed workpieces, and at the same time, as a support for our device.
We also mark this blank and drill three holes in it for screws.

And then, using screws, we screw this workpiece to the end of our corner device.

From the remaining piece of the plank we cut out two more blanks like this with a jigsaw.

We will screw them to the back of our device, where they will serve as additional supports.

At the very back of the device, we drill two holes for screws on each side.

We also countersink the upper parts of these holes with a spherical wood cutter in order to recess the screw heads.

Now we screw our blanks with screws.

All elements of the device, and especially the ends, are treated with sandpaper.

And now our device is ready!
This is what the back looks like.

And so the front part.

Now it will be possible to process bars using this device.
For example, I put a blank block for a shovel handle into this device - rear view.

And this is the front view.

But the block is not square, but rectangular in cross-section. Now it will be quite easy to chamfer from such bars.

But I put a purchased handle for a shovel, round in cross-section, into the device.

Such round workpieces will now also be very convenient to process in this device. Moreover, it will be possible not only to plan them, but also to carry out other types of processing, for example, drilling holes in them or sawing them.

Well, that’s probably all! Goodbye to everyone and have easy-to-use devices!