Roof roof frame. How to make a roof frame correctly

Roof installation is a complex multi-step process. To independently assemble and install a rafter system, you need to carefully study the methods of connecting elements, calculate the length of the rafters and the slope angle, and select the appropriate materials. If you don’t have the necessary experience, take on complex designs not worth it. The best option for a residential building small sizes– do-it-yourself gable roof.

A standard roof of this type consists of the following elements:

Mauerlat is a timber laid on top of the walls along the perimeter of the building. It is secured using threaded steel rods embedded in the wall or anchor bolts. The beam must be made from coniferous wood and have a square section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. The Mauerlat takes on the load from the rafters and transfers it to the external walls.

Rafter legs - these are long boards with a cross section of 50x150 mm or 100x150 mm. They are attached to each other at an angle and give the roof a triangular shape. The structure of their two rafter legs is called a truss. The number of trusses depends on the length of the house and the type roofing. Minimum distance between them is 60 cm, the maximum is 120 cm. When calculating the pitch of the rafter legs, you should take into account not only the weight of the covering, but also the wind load, as well as the amount of snow in winter.

It is located at the highest point of the roof and most often represents a longitudinal beam connecting both slopes. The beam is supported from below vertical racks, and the ends of the rafters are attached to the sides. Sometimes the ridge consists of two boards that are nailed to the top of the rafters on both sides and connected at a certain angle.

Racks – vertical bars with a cross section of 100x100 mm, located inside each truss and serving to transfer the load from the ridge run to the load-bearing walls inside the house.

The struts are made from scraps of timber and installed at an angle between the posts and rafters. Strengthened with struts side faces trusses, the load-bearing capacity of the structure increases.

Tie - a beam connecting the lower parts of the rafters, the base of the truss triangle. Together with the struts, such a beam serves to strengthen the truss and increase its resistance to loads.

A log is a long beam with a cross-section of 100x100 mm, laid along the central load-bearing wall, on which vertical posts rest. Lezhen is used when installing layered rafters when the run between the outer walls is more than 10 m.

The sheathing consists of boards or timber placed on the rafters. The sheathing can be continuous or with gaps, depending on the type of roof. It is always attached perpendicular to the direction of the rafters, most often horizontally.

If there is no more than 10 m between the external walls and there is no load-bearing wall in the middle, arrange hanging rafter system. With this system, the upper ends of adjacent rafters are sawn at an angle and connected to each other using nails, excluding the installation of racks and ridge beam. The lower ends of the rafter legs rest on the external walls. Due to the absence of racks, attic space can be used to furnish an attic. Very often, the function of tightening is performed by floor beams. To strengthen the structure, it is recommended to install the top tie at a distance of 50 cm from the ridge.

If there is a central supporting wall, the arrangement is more justified layered rafter system . A bench is placed on the wall and attached to it support posts, and a ridge beam is nailed to the posts. This installation method is quite economical and easier to implement. If ceilings in interior spaces are designed at different levels, the racks are replaced brick wall, dividing the attic into two halves.

The roof installation process includes several stages: attaching the Mauerlat to the walls, assembling the trusses, installing the rafters on the floors, installing the ridge, and attaching the sheathing. Before assembly, all wooden elements are carefully treated with any antiseptic composition and dried in air.

To work you will need:

timber 100x10 mm and 150x150 mm;
boards 50x150 mm;
boards 30 mm thick for lathing;
roofing felt;
metal studs;
jigsaw and hacksaw;
hammer;
nails and screws;
square and building level.

IN wooden houses The functions of the mauerlat are performed by the logs of the last row, which significantly simplifies the work process. To install the rafters, just cut inside log grooves of the appropriate size.

IN brick houses or buildings made of blocks, installation of the Mauerlat occurs as follows:

The mauerlat bars must form a regular rectangle and be in the same horizontal plane. This will facilitate further installation of the roof and provide the structure with the necessary stability. Finally, markings are made on the beams for the rafters and grooves are cut along the thickness of the beam.

When choosing a hanging rafter system, it is necessary to assemble the trusses on the ground and then install them above the floors. First you need to draw up a drawing and calculate the length of the rafter legs and the angle of their connection. Typically, the roof slope is 35-40 degrees, but in open, heavily blown areas it is reduced to 15-20 degrees. To find out at what angle to connect the rafters, you should multiply the angle of the roof by 2.

Knowing the length of the run between external walls and the angle of connection of the rafters, you can calculate the length of the rafter legs. Most often it is 4-6 m, taking into account the eaves overhang 50-60 cm wide.

The upper ends of the rafters can be fastened in several ways: overlapping, end-to-end and “into the paw”, that is, with grooves cut out. Metal plates or bolts are used for fixation. Next, the lower and upper ties are installed, and then the finished trusses are lifted up and installed above the floors.

The outer trusses are attached first: using a plumb line, the rafters are aligned vertically, the length of the overhang is adjusted and attached to the mauerlat with bolts or steel plates. To prevent the truss from moving during installation, it is reinforced with temporary beams made of timber. After installing the outer rafters, the rest are set, keeping the same distance between them. When all the trusses are secured, take a board with a cross section of 50x150 mm, the length of which is 20-30 cm longer cornice, and nail it along the upper edge of the slope. The same is done on the other side of the roof.

The first option: a rectangular groove is cut out on the rafter leg at the point where it touches the mauerlat, 1/3 of the width of the beam. Stepping back 15 cm from the top of the box, a steel spike is driven into the wall. The rafter is leveled, the grooves are aligned, then a wire clamp is placed on top and the beam is pulled close to the wall. The ends of the wire are securely fastened to the crutch. The lower edges of the rafters are carefully cut off circular saw, leaving an overhang of 50 cm.

Second option: the upper rows of walls are laid out with a stepped cornice of bricks, and the mauerlat is placed flush with the inner surface of the wall and a groove is cut out in it for the rafter. The edge of the rafter leg is cut to the level top corner cornice. This method is simpler than others, but the overhang is too narrow.

Third option: beams ceilings are released over the edge outer wall by 40-50 cm, and the trusses are installed on the beams. The ends of the rafter legs are cut at an angle and rest against the beams, secured with metal plates and bolts. This method allows you to slightly increase the width attic space.

Installation of layered rafters

Figure 1 shows the cutting of rafter struts into a beam laid on intermediate supports, and Fig. 2 - resting the rafter leg on the mauerlat

The procedure for installing a layered rafter system:

When the main elements are fixed, the surface of the rafters is treated with fire retardants. Now you can start making the sheathing.

For the sheathing, timber 50x50 mm is suitable, as well as boards 3-4 cm thick and 12 cm wide. Waterproofing material is usually laid under the sheathing to protect the rafter system from getting wet. The waterproofing film is laid horizontal stripes from the eaves to the ridge of the roof. The material is spread with an overlap of 10-15 cm, after which the joints are secured with tape. The lower edges of the film should completely cover the ends of the rafters.

It is necessary to leave a ventilation gap between the boards and the film, so first stuff them onto the film. wooden slats 3-4 cm thick, placing them along the rafters.

The next stage is covering the rafter system with boards; they are stuffed perpendicular to the slats, starting from the roof eaves. The pitch of the sheathing is influenced not only by the type of roofing, but also by the angle of inclination of the slopes: the greater the angle, the greater the distance between the boards.

After completing the installation of the sheathing, they begin cladding the gables and overhangs. You can cover the gables with boards, plastic panels, clapboard, waterproof plywood or corrugated sheeting - it all depends on financial capabilities and personal preferences. The sheathing is attached to the side of the rafters; nails or screws are used as fasteners. Overhangs are also hemmed various materials– from wood to siding.

Video - DIY gable roof

When erecting a roof, the “first fiddle” in the entire structure is played by the roof frame. It is the frame that bears the main mechanical load, which means that the highest demands are placed on the strength, reliability and durability of the frame. The roofing material, insulation and waterproofing can be very different, but if the frame is built with flaws - good luck: such a roof will not last long.

Very often, the construction of a roof frame confuses novice craftsmen. However, if you look at it, there is nothing impossible in this task; you just need to choose one of the proposed ones and get down to business.

With the proper approach, correct calculation and good theoretical preparation, the frame part of the roof for small house can be built even alone.

At the same time, you will not only significantly save financial resources that would inevitably be spent on paying hired craftsmen, but you will also be able to control the process of constructing the frame.

And this, in turn, means that the design of your roof will not present you with unpleasant surprises at the most inopportune moment.

In this article we will tell you how to make a roof frame yourself, using only the most common tools and materials.

For example, we will take the frame of the most common gable roof type. But if you master this technology, then you can easily build roofs of other designs (hipped, pitched, pitched) - you just need to take into account the features of a particular design.

The first thing we need to decide on is the type of rafter system. Any rafter system consists of two rafter legs connected to each other at the top.

In the lower part, the legs are connected by a lower screed, which can also serve as the basis for the attic floor. However, there may be nuances in the structure of such a system.

The frame of the roof of a house can be built on the basis of two types of rafter systems: layered and hanging. Both layered and hanging rafter systems can be used in private construction.

How to choose a system for constructing a frame?

The choice of rafter system is determined mainly by the design features of the building itself. If the distance between the external load-bearing walls does not exceed 6 m, a hanging rafter system can be installed.

The peculiarity of this system is that the rafter legs rest only on the side walls of the house - and with a large building width, a rather dangerous sagging of the building rafters occurs under their own weight.

A more reliable layered system is used when the distance between external load-bearing walls exceeds 6 m, but in the room itself there is an internal load-bearing wall located in the center of the building.

In this case, you can avoid sagging rafters by installing additional support.

Choosing materials for the frame

What do we need to independently build a gable roof frame?

The rafters - the key component of the frame - will be built from wood. To do this, we need to purchase a 50x150 mm edged board, as well as a 150x150 mm timber.

It is optimal if the wood is coniferous species, winter harvesting, and one from which the resin has not been previously drained (resinous substances in the composition of wood significantly extend its service life, acting as a natural antiseptic). The conditions in which the wood was stored before purchase and the degree to which it was dried are also very important.

When inspecting boards and beams, it is necessary to pay attention to possible wood defects: delamination, cracks, traces of damage from woodworms.

Materials on which these signs are found must be rejected - their use in the construction of a roof frame is unacceptable.

Note! Roof frames can be made not only from lumber, but also from metal channels or reinforced concrete structures. But in this case, the roof turns out to be quite heavy, and we are no longer talking about its independent construction.

In addition to the rafter legs, purlins and racks that make up the rafter system, the design of the roof frame includes an attic floor, as well as counter-lattice and sheathing.

If the attic space will be used for its intended purpose (i.e. as an attic or warehouse), then for the construction attic floor A board of 50x150 mm is sufficient.

If the attic space will act as an attic (i.e. a living space), then the floor must be more durable: to lay it we will need a 150x150 mm beam, which is laid directly on the mauerlat. The use of such timber allows you to achieve sufficient strength from the attic floor.

For the sheathing and counter-lattice we use thinner timber. A square beam of 40x40 or 50x50 mm is quite suitable. Bars of this thickness have sufficient strength to withstand the weight of almost any roofing material.

When choosing beams for sheathing, you need to strictly monitor their straightness, because the slightest deviation from a straight line can significantly complicate roofing work.

Also, for the construction of lathing and counter-lattice, a perforated profile made of galvanized iron can be used.

In addition to materials for the construction of rafters, floors and sheathing, we will need:

Threaded metal studs for attaching the Mauerlat (support beam)
Brackets and brackets for attaching rafter legs to the Mauerlat
Fastening elements (wood screws, studs with a diameter of 8 and 10 mm) for connecting the rafters to each other
Galvanized nails

The set of tools required to build a roof frame is quite standard: you will need hammers of different sizes, a drill for drilling holes, a saw (or grinder) for cutting the rafters to size and giving them the desired shape, carpenter's ax, planes - in general, everything that is already very likely to be found in your tool cabinet.

Particular attention should be paid to the measuring tool, because without an accurate level, plumb line and tape measure, you are unlikely to be able to align the rafters exactly at a sufficiently large distance.

Frame wood protection

Before proceeding with the construction of the rafter system, it is necessary to provide all wooden parts of the roof frame with protection from fire and rot.

To do this, all parts of the rafters, ceilings and sheathing must be treated with two compounds:

Antipyretic - a composition that reduces the flammability of wood and protects the wooden part of the roof frame from fire
Antiseptic – a substance that kills bacteria and prevents the occurrence of putrefactive processes in the wood of rafters and ceilings.

Note! Some wood preservatives are quite toxic. Therefore, they should be applied only in a well-ventilated area or outdoors, and use products personal protection(glasses and respirator).

Protection of the roof frame is possible even after its construction. In this case, we treat the already installed structure with a fire-retardant and antibacterial composition, Special attention focusing on impregnation of wood at the joints of the beams of the rafter system.

So, the type of rafter system has been selected, the materials have been purchased and processed protective composition. It's time to start building the rafter system.

Installing the Mauerlat

The support for the frame of our future roof is the Mauerlat - wooden beam, which is laid on the load-bearing walls of the house. The main function of the Mauerlat is to transfer and distribute the weight of the roof and the resulting loads (wind, snow, etc.) onto the supporting structures.

Mauerlat is the basis for almost any rafter system. An exception may be the roof of a house made of timber or the roof frame house- When building the frame with your own hands, in these houses you will use the upper wall beam instead of the mauerlat.

Most often (with the exception of the option that will be described below), 100x150 or 150x150 mm timber is used as a Mauerlat. It is optimal if the Mauerlat is laid “flush” with the inner surface of the building wall, and a brick barrier is erected outside at the level of the Mauerlat.

To lay the mauerlat along the perimeter of the building, we lay a monolithic concrete blind area. After the concrete has completely dried, we lay several layers of roofing material on it - it will provide a sufficient level of waterproofing and will effectively prevent the wood from absorbing moisture from the concrete base.

Most often, the Mauerlat is laid using the following technology:

IN concrete base we install studs from a metal rod with a diameter of 10 mm or more. The studs can be installed both at the stage of constructing the concrete blind area, and later - by drilling holes in the concrete and securing the studs in the holes cement mortar. The first method is preferable because it is less labor-intensive.
Mauerlat from solid timber We lay 150x150mm along the blind area, and make marks in places where the timber touches the studs. Using the marks, we drill holes with a drill whose diameter corresponds to the diameter of the studs. We put the Mauerlat on the studs, and the studs should protrude from the timber by at least 10-15 mm.
We fix the mauerlat on the studs using nuts, placing a wide flat washer between the beam and the nut to avoid damage to the wood when the nut is tightly tightened

Note! If you have a welding machine at hand and you have the skills to work with it, you can save on studs. In this case, instead of studs, we use reinforcing bars, and simply weld the fixing nuts to them.

Another method of laying the Mauerlat makes the work somewhat easier.

Instead of timber, you can use two layers of 50x150 mm boards:

We lay out the first row of boards along the perimeter of the walls and fasten them using anchor screws with a countersunk head and a metal sleeve. For drilling holes in concrete or brickwork We use a hammer drill, having previously drilled the board with a drill with a regular drill bit.
We lay the second row of boards on top of the first row so that the joints of the boards do not coincide, and in the corners we lay the boards “in a bandage”
We connect the rows together using 100 mm nails.

This fastening of the Mauerlat greatly facilitates lifting the material to a height - after all, the board is much lighter than timber.

And the strength of the resulting structure is quite sufficient, especially if a relatively light roof of a frame house is being erected.

Installation of rafters

The next stage in the construction of the roof frame is the installation of rafters. To make the work easier (especially if you work alone), all processing of the rafter beams is done on the ground.

This makes it more convenient to cut the beams to size, give them the desired shape using a template, cut out the necessary grooves and drill mounting holes. Only after this do we lift the rafter parts up and begin fastening them.

The technology for manufacturing a roof frame with a hanging rafter system is as follows:

We make grooves in the mauerlat for installing rafter legs. The distance between the rafter legs is determined at the stage of choosing the type of rafter system, but in any case should not exceed 1.5 m - otherwise the structure will have clearly insufficient rigidity.

Note! If you plan to insulate the roof, then it is advisable to coordinate the distance between the rafters with the dimensions of the insulating material. By laying solid sheets or pairs of insulation sheets in the space between the rafters, you will significantly save time on trimming.

We begin the installation of rafters with the gables - the end parts of the roof. Having installed the rafters at the ends, we stretch a cord between their ridges, and use it to guide us when aligning the intermediate rafters vertically.
We insert the rafter legs into the grooves. To fix the rafter leg in the mauerlat, we use complex fasteners: the transverse displacement of the rafter is limited by a steel bracket, and the longitudinal displacement is limited by the bracket with which the rafter is attached to the mauerlat.
When installing rafters, you need to remember that the rafters must protrude beyond the perimeter of the building. The optimal size of this protrusion (it is called an overhang or overhang of rafters) is 40 cm - this is how the walls of the building are protected from water flowing down the roof. In addition to the protrusion of the rafter beam itself, the overhang can be equipped by extending the rafters with an additional thinner board - the so-called “filly”. The “filly” is attached to the rafters using nails through a spacer - a short piece of board.

We fix the lower parts of the rafters with strapping, which is used as a base for the attic floor. The strapping bars rest on the mauerlat.
If it is necessary to extend the rafter beams (if their length is insufficient), we lay two beams on an overlay with an overlap of at least a meter. To fix the beams we use pins with a diameter of 8 to 12 mm.
We connect the rafters to each other using pins, which we insert into the drilled holes. To prevent rotation of the rafters around the axis of the stud, each pair of rafters must be secured with two studs.
If the roof width is within 6 m, then hanging rafters We connect it with an additional cross beam - a tie - in the shape of the letter “A”. We make the puffs from boards 50x100 or 50x150 mm, and fasten them to the rafters with self-tapping screws. It is also possible to install a tie made of 3 x 30x100 mm boards located on both sides of the rafters.
In the upper part, the trusses are fixed using a longitudinal ridge beam or ridge board.

To enhance the upper rafter assembly You can connect the ridge beam to the tie with an additional piece of board. This is done to avoid deflection of the tie when there is a large distance between the rafters.

We repeat the above operations for all rafter pairs. After all the rafters are installed, you can begin arranging the sheathing.

Lathing

There are two types of roof sheathing: solid and thinned. The choice of sheathing type is determined by the type of roofing material.

To construct a continuous sheathing, OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood of sufficient thickness (10 mm or more) are used, the sheets of which are stuffed onto the rafters through a counter-batten. Continuous sheathing is suitable for laying soft and rolled roofing materials.

When constructing thinned sheathing, beams or boards are placed on them, the distance between which depends on the dimensions of the roofing material used.

If austerity is necessary, for this type of lathing, you can use an unedged board instead of timber.

The thinned sheathing is placed on the rafters from top to bottom. To increase the strength of the structure, we fill the first rows of the sheathing, starting from the ridge beam, without a gap.

After the sheathing is completed, you can begin work on roof insulation, laying waterproofing and roofing work.

Despite the complexity of the process, it is quite possible to build a roof frame with your own hands. And if you take up the work “fully armed”, then you will invariably be successful.

Filimonov Evgeniy

Reading time: 8 minutes

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How to build a roof for a frame house, choice of material. Staged work, roof insulation. Roof installation technology, types of frame house roofs.

The roof of a frame house has great importance under construction. After all, protection from external conditions of an aggressive environment depends on its quality.

This article highlights the design features of the roof. What you need to do before you take on the roof installation job. What types of roofs frame houses, the required slope of the slopes. How to choose the right material for a reliable roof, the correct installation of rafters: pitch, length, section. Competent creation of sheathing and counter-lattice. How to install the roof of a frame house.

What you need to decide before building the roof. How to choose the right roof configuration. Required number of slopes. The correct installation of the crossbar, how to connect the rafters in the ridge. Correct fastening of the rafters to the mauerlat and fastening of the crossbar to the rafters.

What is the essence of the structure of the roof and roof of a frame house. How to build a gable roof on a frame house. Construction technology hip roof. How to perform competent installation of an attic (broken) roof of a frame house.

Advantages of frame houses and roof insulation, hanging layer system technology.

The roof structure of a frame house is one of the simplest, so it self-construction will not take much effort and time.

This article will help you if difficulties arise during the work. In it, we will consider the features of roof installation, give practical recommendations on the choice of material, structural elements, and compliance with the necessary standards and requirements during the work process.

Before starting construction, you need to decide:

With roof type and slope angle
Type of roofing material
Length, cross-section of rafters and distance between them
Length, pitch and cross-section of sheathing and counter-lattice elements
Type of insulation

Type of roofs of frame houses

Roofs are:

Flat
Pitched (with one, two or more slopes)
Attic (with two and four slopes)
Pincer, conical, multi-pinion, etc.

The choice of roof is made not only based on the conditions of its appearance. Important to consider functionality designs. Main advantages and disadvantages of roofs different types are given below.

Frame house with flat roof

Flat roofs are not popular in private construction. Their construction does not cause difficulties, but the shortcomings cover everything. They require careful care. After rain, water remains on the roofs, and in winter you have to remove the snow yourself. This increases the likelihood of moisture penetrating into the room. On houses with pitched roof You can use the attic as an additional room.

But during installation flat roof you can save a lot on building materials and sunbathe on it in the summer.

During installation, it is necessary to maintain a slope angle of 2-3 degrees relative to the horizon.

Multi-slope and pitched roof frame house

The slope angle of the slopes starts from 10 degrees. The number of slopes is from 1 to 4.
Pitched roofs are very popular and are used everywhere. In the spring, snow does not linger on them for a long time, water calmly flows down the gutters, and a lot of additional space appears in the form of an attic space, where you can arrange an additional room.

The load on the structure is also reduced, and along with it the possibility of leaks.

Mansard roof

It can be semi-hip (double slope with two small slopes) and hip (four slope). This type of roof is also widely used.

The advantages are as follows: extra bed under the roof, possibility of installing windows, unique appearance at home, low load on the structure in winter. Disadvantages - high costs for materials, heating, a lot of snow on window structures in winter, faster destruction of rafter structures due to insufficient ventilation.

Multi-gable roof

The multi-gable roof is considered one of the most popular. It differs from others in the large number of slopes and the presence of valleys. Installed if the house has a complex layout.

Advantages - the design can withstand significant loads, it becomes possible to equip an additional room, and a unique appearance. Disadvantages: high consumption of material, leaving a lot of waste, difficulty in DIY installation, and high financial costs.

Conical roofs

A conical roof is installed when the building is made in the shape of a circle. In Russia, few people build such roofs.

Advantages: interesting appearance, ease of maintenance. Disadvantages: complexity of calculations and installation.

We suggest choosing a roof with two slopes. In this case, it will be possible to significantly reduce the cost of materials and maintenance, while the appearance of the structure will not be affected.

It is worth understanding that the more slopes, the more beautiful the roof, but also more expensive. But if you are not used to saving and want the best, then install a roof of any type.

Erection of the roof is important stage the entire construction of the house. That is why special attention is paid to the construction of the frame of the upper part of the building. To build a roof frame on our own, you need certain knowledge and experience. Next we will talk about how to make a roof frame.

Depending on the variety roofing structure The roof frame has several types:

Rafter frame structure, the basis of which is wooden elements. It is used in private construction for the construction of pitched roofs.
Metal carcass. It is made from profile metal beams and is used primarily in industrial construction.
Concrete frame. His device uses concrete plates, which create a flat roof mainly in high-rise buildings.

Before starting the construction of a frame structure of a building, it is necessary to decide on the choice of one of the given types and the frame of the rafter system, in which the load-bearing capacity is completely transferred to the trusses. To construct a rafter truss, a wooden beam is used, which in cross-section must be at least 15.0 x 5.0 cm in size. After attaching the rafters to the building and to each other, the roof sheathing system is fixed to the frame.

The rafter structure is divided into layered and hanging. It is selected depending on design features building. Both types of rafters are used in the construction of private houses and differ in that with a hanging system, the main beams rest on a mauerlat, which is arranged around the perimeter of the building and attached to the surface load-bearing walls on the top row of masonry. In practice, the Mauerlat is a wooden beam with a cross-section of 10.0×10.0 cm. The rafter legs on the upper side of the truss are fixed to each other using a ridge beam. The layered structure in the upper part is not attached to each other by the rafters. This wooden frame is made in a different way.

With a layered system, the trusses at the top of their structure rest on a longitudinal central wall or specially provided columns for supports.

When choosing a type truss structure are of great importance dimensions structures.

Note! Hanging rafters are used in the construction of roofs for houses, the distance between the external load-bearing walls of which does not exceed 6.0 m. If the span is greater than this value and there is a longitudinal central wall with load-bearing characteristics or supporting columns, then a layered rafter frame is used. In this case, it will not be subject to increased load from the weight of the roofing material.

You need to know that the Mauerlat is the main support for the frame structure and roofing material of the roof. The task of the Mauerlat is to take the loads from the entire roof structure and distribute them evenly onto the load-bearing walls of the building.

Thanks to this structural element, the durability of not only the roof, but also the entire building as a whole increases. If this tier of timber had not been used, vertical loads from the roof would have acted with a destructive force on the load-bearing walls at individual points. In essence, the Mauerlat serves as the main support and protective function throughout the frame structure of the top of the structure. Such support is not needed only in the construction of wooden houses, in which the top of the walls ends with the laying of beams or logs. This important structural element must be installed when constructing the roof frame in such a way that the internal surfaces of it and the load-bearing walls are in the same plane. This will allow you to do interior decoration home more comfortable.
On the street side, the mauerlat must be buried with brickwork so that the wood material is not exposed to natural phenomena. Walls made of blocks or bricks must be level at the top point concrete screed. It, in turn, must be covered with roofing felt in several layers. Instead of this material, heated bitumen can be used. Insulation material used to protect the Mauerlat from moisture that could be transferred to it from the walls. Excess moisture has a detrimental effect on wood material and reduces its durability.
The most practical and reliable method of fixing the Mauerlat to the walls of a building is the use of metal pins that firmly fasten the surfaces of both elements. Holes are made in bricks or blocks required size. Ready-made metal studs, which are made from steel reinforcement, are inserted into the drilled holes. Then the beam for support is applied to the studs for fitting, marks are made and holes are also made along them in the Mauerlat.

Note! When installing, pay attention to the length of the studs. They should protrude from the body of the support beam at a distance of 1.5 cm. Threads should be cut at the ends of the metal parts, which are ultimately used for final fixation of the power plate using washers large diameter and nuts. As an alternative to such fastening, welding can be used.

Installation of the rafter frame

The next stage of work is the installation of the roof truss frame. Before installing roof trusses, you need to purchase dry wooden elements so that they do not deform or warp over the subsequent time.

During construction, the truss structure must include two rafter legs and tie rods to connect the former in their lower part. The ties are fixed to the rafter legs with anchor parts and bolts. Roof trusses in the required quantity are attached to the Mauerlat and secured with simple technologies. They consist of making in the support beam required quantity cutouts correct form. Into these grooves using simple manipulations rafters are installed. The distance between the truss structures depends on the exact dimensions of the roof, which are based on the dimensions of the house. In practice, the rafters should be located at a distance of up to 1 m from each other. It must be taken into account that in some roof frames rafters with a vertical direction are used. Such structural elements are used to construct high roofs with a vertical dimension of 3 m or more.
The wooden lathing system perfectly connects the structural elements of the frame with each other. But before it is installed, it is necessary to ensure the stability of the roof trusses. For this purpose, a ridge-type beam is provided at the top of the structure. On the lower side, a temporary strapping is organized, which is removed after installing the planks or sheathing boards. As you can see, the sheathing plays important role not only for the installation of roofing material, but also for the reliable connection of all structural elements when making a roof frame with your own hands.
The lathing system can be divided according to its type into intermediate and continuous. The choice of type of sheathing depends on what roofing material the roof will be covered with. Intermediate lathing is used if the roof is covered with dense sheet materials. In this case, there must be a certain distance between the slats.
If the roof of the roof is expected to be soft or it is rolled into rolls, then continuous lathing is used. Only on such a surface can this type of roofing material be properly laid, and only in this way can long-term operation of the roof be ensured. Soft tiles will feel good on a solid sheathing. If this material is laid on an intermediate system, it will hang down and be used poorly.

For example, for galvanized sheets, metal tiles or slate, intermediate type lathing is well suited. But since these materials require fastening in certain places, the sheathing strips must be installed at a certain pitch. Therefore for proper construction the roof frame needs to be made preliminary calculations.

Note! Any materials made of wood are susceptible to fungus and insects, and they also burn. To protect wooden material from pests, beams and boards need to be protected antiseptic impregnations. In order for wood to lose its ability to burn, it must be treated with fire retardants. All wooden elements must be processed before starting installation work. This will increase durability wooden frame roofs.

In industrial construction, as well as in the construction of apartment buildings high-rise buildings Roof frames are not made from wooden elements. Rafter systems are made of profile metal. The lightweight metal roof frame, which consists of steel of various profiles with thin walls, is reliable and for a long time operation. If we compare metal rafters and wooden ones, the former have a number of advantages.

Metal elements, unlike wooden ones, are not subject to combustion. In the event of a roof fire metal constructions able for a long time withstand high temperature and do not allow the roof to collapse.
When using metal rafters, there is no need to treat structural elements with antiseptics and fire retardants.
Since the structure is not subject to infection by insects and fungi, and the surface of the elements is coated with zinc, which prevents corrosion, such a roof can be used for about 100 years.
Metal rafters can be installed in any weather conditions.
It should be noted that the rafters are easy to install. Installation requires a minimum of tools.
Since the structure has a small mass, it does not exert large loads on the load-bearing walls of the structure.

Because metal rafters Large loads are not scary; any roofing material can be used as a roof covering.

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Video

This video talks about installing a roof truss system.

The main element of the roof structure is the frame, since it bears a large mechanical load. For this reason, increased demands are placed on it regarding reliability, strength and durability.

Even when using the highest quality building materials for roofing, if the roof frame is made in violation of technology, the constructed structure will quickly become unusable.

You can build the frame part of a small house yourself, but subject to correct calculations and skills construction work and appropriate theoretical training. As a result, you will be able to save a considerable amount. If you still decide to use the services of professional roofers, then the owner of the house will be able to keep control over the process of creating the frame.

The article describes the arrangement of the most common type of roof - gable. If the technology for constructing such a roof frame has been mastered, then other structures (for example, broken, hipped) can be completed without difficulty.

Features of selecting a rafter system option

All rafter systems consist of rafter legs, which must be connected in pairs at the top. Below, these main frame elements are combined with a screed - it can also become the basis for an interfloor attic floor. But there are some peculiarities in the design of the systems.

The fact is that roof frames are equipped in one of two types:

layered;
hanging.

Both of these rafter systems have found application in private residential construction.

As a rule, the specific choice depends on the design structure of the building. When the gap between the load-bearing walls is no more than 6 meters, installation of a rafter system is allowed hanging type. Its peculiarity is that the legs of the rafters rest only on the side walls.

The layered structure is more reliable and is used at the above-mentioned distance, which exceeds 6 meters, and when the room has a load-bearing wall built in the center of the house. In this case, you can abandon the sagging option if you install additional support.

Roof frame materials

To build the frame part of a gable roof, you will first need rafters. They will presumably be made from wood. You can build a roof frame from boards with a section of 50x150 millimeters or from timber with a section of 150x150 millimeters. It is desirable that it be coniferous material, harvested in winter time, and the resin was not drained from it first.

The presence of resinous substances in wood, which are a natural antiseptic, significantly extends its service life. The storage conditions of materials and the degree of drying are of no small importance.

When inspecting beams and boards, pay attention to the presence of defects - they could be cracks, delaminations, the presence of traces of damage from insects - wood borers. If these shortcomings are detected, the rejected boards and beams are not used.

In addition to lumber, reinforced concrete concrete and a metal channel are used to construct the frame, but then the roof turns out to be too heavy and it is impossible to build it yourself.

In addition to the rafter legs, posts and purlins that make up the system, frame structure includes attic flooring, sheathing and counter-lattice. If the attic space is planned to be used as non-residential space, then boards with a cross-section of 50x150 millimeters will be sufficient for the flooring.

When they want to create a residential attic from the attic space, then the ceiling must be made reliable and for these purposes you will need a wooden beam with a cross-section of 150x150 millimeters. It is laid on the Mauerlat and thereby achieves the required strength.

To arrange the sheathing and counter-lattice, timber is used, but it must be thinner. Suitable lumber with a section square shape 40x40 or 50x50 millimeters. Beams of this size are strong enough to support the weight of the roof “pie”. When choosing them, pay attention to straightness, since any deviation leads to difficulties that arise in the process of roofing work.

For the construction of lathing and counter-lattice, you can also purchase a perforated profile made of galvanized metal.

In addition to the above materials you will need:

Threaded metal studs - they are used to secure the Mauerlat, which serves as a support beam.
Brackets and brackets for fixing the rafter legs to the mauerlat.
Fasteners, including studs with a diameter of 8 and 10 millimeters, wood screws, which are needed to connect the rafters.
Galvanized nails.

To install the roof frame, you need standard set tools, including:

hammers different sizes;
drill for creating holes;
plane;
grinder or saw;
measuring devices - level, plumb line.

Methods for protecting wood for frames

Before making the roof frame of a house, it is necessary to treat its wooden elements with protective agents against rotting and fire.

For this purpose, all parts that make up the rafters, lathing and ceilings are treated with the following compounds:

antipyretics, which reduce the flammability of wood and protect the wooden parts of the roof frame from fire;
antiseptics, which are substances capable of destroying bacteria, they prevent the development of putrefactive processes in the material from which the ceilings and rafters are made.

The above-mentioned compositions are applied with a brush, since when using sprayers it is impossible to achieve high-quality and deep impregnation. This is done in several layers.

Some protective equipment for wood they are toxic, so they need to be applied outdoors or in a well-ventilated room. In this case, you need to use personal protective equipment.

The frame can be processed after its arrangement is completed. Then the structure is coated with fire-retardant and antibacterial compounds, and special attention is paid to the joints of the beams of the rafter system.

Do-it-yourself Mauerlat installation

The support for the frame of the roof being erected is the mauerlat, installed on the load-bearing walls. His main function consists of transferring and distributing the weight of the roof and various loads on the building envelope. Mauerlat is the basis of almost any rafter system, except for cases where the roof is created on a frame house or a timber structure. In them, the function of a support beam is performed by the upper beam on the wall.

Typically, it is customary to use timber 100x150 or 150x150 millimeters as a mauerlat. The best option it is considered to be laid “flush” with the inner surface of the load-bearing walls. In this case, rows of bricks need to be laid out outside at a level with the Mauerlat.

It is necessary to pour a concrete blind area along the perimeter of the building before its installation. After the final hardening of the composition, roofing material is laid on this base in several layers so that this material provides a sufficient degree of waterproofing and effectively prevents the absorption of moisture by the wood.

In most cases, the Mauerlat is mounted in accordance with the following technology:

Metal fasteners with a diameter of 10 millimeters or more are inserted into the concrete base at the stage of its construction or later. To do this, holes are drilled in it and cement mortar is used to fix the studs.
A Mauerlat made of solid timber with a cross-section of 150x150 millimeters is laid along the blind area and appropriate marks are made in the places where it touches the fasteners. Holes are drilled according to them. The Mauerlat is placed on the studs so that they protrude from the timber by at least 10–15 millimeters.
To fix this element, use nuts, placing a wide, flat washer between them and the beam. In the presence of welding machine You can save money on heels. In this case, reinforcing bars are used instead, and the nuts are welded to them.

There is another way to install the Mauerlat, when the timber is replaced with two rows of boards with a cross-section of 50x150 millimeters:

The first row of lumber is placed around the perimeter of the walls and secured with anchor screws that have a countersunk head and a metal sleeve. To make holes in brickwork or concrete, use a hammer drill, having previously drilled the boards with a drill with a standard drill bit.
Another row is placed on top of the first so that the joints of the boards do not coincide. In the corners wood materials put in a “dressing”.
Both rows are connected to each other with 100 mm nails.

The second method of arranging a mauerlat greatly facilitates the movement of lumber to a height, since the boards are much lighter than timber. At the same time, the degree of strength of such a structure will be sufficient, especially when a roof is being erected for a frame house, which has a relatively low weight.

Arrangement of the rafter system - technology

The next stage of roof construction is the installation of rafters. To facilitate the work process, especially when constructing a roof frame with your own hands, the rafter beams are processed on the ground.

This will make it much more convenient to cut materials according to size, give them the required shape using a template, cut out grooves and drill holes for fasteners. Only then the components for the rafters are moved upstairs and they begin to connect them.

Frame assembly technology with hanging system the rafters look like this:

Grooves are cut into the mauerlat for mounting rafter legs. The gap between these adjacent elements is determined when choosing the type of rafter system, but in any case it should not exceed 150 centimeters, otherwise the structure will not be sufficiently rigid. When it is planned to insulate the roof, then the distance between the rafters should be coordinated with the dimensions thermal insulation material. If you lay solid insulation slabs in the free space between the rafter legs, you will not need to waste time adjusting this material.
The installation of rafters begins from the end parts (gables) of the roof. After installing them, a cord is pulled between the ridges and when aligning the intermediate rafters relative to the vertical, it is necessary to focus on it.
The rafter legs are lowered into the grooves. To fix them in the Mauerlat, complex fasteners are used. To do this, the transverse displacement of the elements is limited by a steel bracket, and the longitudinal displacement by a bracket.
During the installation process, you need to take into account that the rafters must extend beyond the perimeter of the building. The optimal size of the protrusion, which is usually called overhang or overhang, is considered to be 40 centimeters. As a result, the walls of the house are protected from water flowing down the roof surface. The overhang can be equipped not only with the help of rafter beams - the length of the rafters is increased by using a thin board, called a “filly”. It is attached to the rafters by means of a spacer (a short piece of board) with nails. The use of an additional board during the construction of a roof overhang is not considered a design flaw; on the contrary, the use of a “filly” makes construction easier and slightly cheaper. At the same time, overhang repair is simplified: if necessary, it is enough to replace one or several “fillies”, rather than the entire rafter beam.
The lower ends of the rafters should be secured with strapping, which is used as a base for the attic floor. The strapping bars rest on the mauerlat.
If you need to increase the beams for the rafters if they are not long enough, two beams are laid in an overlay with an overlap of at least one meter in size. They are secured with studs with a diameter of 8–12 millimeters.
The rafters are connected to each other with pins - they are inserted into pre-prepared holes. To prevent the rafters from rotating around the pin axis, each pair of rafters is secured with two fasteners.
When the width of the roof does not exceed 6 meters, then the hanging rafters are connected with a transverse beam - a tie shaped like the letter “A”. This element is made from boards with a cross-section of 50x100 or 50x150 millimeters, and attached to the rafters with self-tapping screws. You can also install tie-downs consisting of three boards with a cross-section of 30x100 millimeters, which are placed on both sides of the rafters.
The trusses in the upper part are fixed with a longitudinal ridge beam or ridge board.
Additionally, in order to strengthen the upper assembly of the rafters, connect the ridge beam with a tightening using a piece of board. This is done to prevent the tension from bending in case of a large gap between the rafters.

The same method is used to install the roof of a frame house, although there are some minor nuances. After installation of the rafters is completed, installation of the sheathing begins.

How to make a roof sheathing

This roof element comes in two types: solid and sparse. The choice of one depends on the roofing material used.

To build a continuous sheathing, OSB boards or sheets of moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 10 millimeters or more are used. They are stuffed onto the rafters using a counter-batten. Use continuous sheathing if roll or soft materials are to be installed.

When a thinned sheathing is installed, boards or beams are placed on the rafters at intervals that depend on the size of the roof covering elements. If it is necessary to save money, to create this type of sheathing, instead of using timber, use an unedged board.

The sparse sheathing is stuffed onto the rafters from top to bottom. To increase the strength of the structure, the first rows from the ridge beam are created without gaps. After completing the construction of the sheathing, you can begin work on thermal insulation of the roof, installation of thermal insulation and laying of the finishing coating.

Choosing a roof type

Before designing a house, its owners must decide whether the second floor will be used for living. The fact is that the technology of a frame roof for the second floor is different, because the living space is located directly under the roof. In this case, there is no need to build the walls of the upper floor and install a roof above it.

Frame roofs for the second floor, in addition to advantages, also have disadvantages, including the inability to install full-fledged window openings, and it’s difficult to make the living space comfortable.