Is it possible to solder batteries? How to solder a wire to a battery or accumulator using phosphoric acid

When working with mobile household devices or special tools with a built-in power source, there is often a need to solder a wire to the battery.

Before you begin this seemingly simple procedure, you should carefully prepare, which will guarantee that you will receive a reliable and high-quality connection at the end of the work.

Both the alkaline or lithium battery itself and the connecting conductor soldered to it need preparation.

These procedures also include the preparation of the necessary consumables, including such important components as solder, rosin and flux mixture.

The most difficult and crucial moment of the upcoming work is stripping the battery terminal to which the connecting wire is supposed to be soldered. This procedure may seem simple only to those who have never tried to do this.

The problem in this case is that the aluminum contacts of power supplies (finger or other type - it doesn’t matter) are susceptible to oxidation and are constantly covered with a coating that interferes with soldering.

To clean them and subsequently isolate them from air you will need:

  • sandpaper;
  • medical scalpel or well-sharpened knife;
  • low-melting solder and neutral flux additive;
  • not a very “powerful” soldering iron (no more than 25 watts).

After all the specified components are prepared, the following operations must be performed. First, you need to carefully clean the area of ​​the intended soldering, using first a scalpel or knife, and then fine emery cloth (this will ensure better removal of the oxide film from the contact area).

At the same time, the bare part of the soldered wire should undergo the same stripping.

Immediately after preparation, you should proceed to protective treatment of the terminals of a finger-type or any other battery.

Flux treatment

To prevent subsequent oxidation of the contact, the surface of the battery, cleared of plaque, should be immediately treated with a flux mixture made from ordinary rosin.

If, for example, there are no greasy stains from oils on the phone battery contacts, simply wipe them with a soft flannel soaked in ammonia.

After this, you will need to warm up the soldering iron well and solder the contact area with a few quick touches. At this point, preparation for soldering can be considered complete.

Soldering process

After each of the connected parts has been cleaned and treated with flux, they proceed to directly soldering the wires to the contact area of ​​the battery.

To carry out this final procedure, you can use the same 25-watt soldering iron that was used to prepare the battery terminals from NI or CD.

As a solder, you should choose a low-melting composition, and for good spreading, use a rosin-based flux.

The final soldering procedure should take no more than 3 seconds. This applies to any type of battery (both NI and CD).

The most important thing is to prevent overheating of the terminal part of the element, as a result of which it can be seriously damaged. The possibility of its complete destruction (rupture) during the soldering process cannot be ruled out.

When considering how to solder a wire and a battery, it should be noted that this situation occurs much more often than it seems. First of all, this applies to special construction tools (if it is necessary to solder screwdriver batteries, for example).

There are often cases when the built-in power supply of the tool used is completely destroyed for some reason, and there is nothing to replace this screwdriver with. In this situation, the conductors powering the device are soldered to a spare battery designed for the same voltage.

The considered technique can be used when you just need to solder two batteries together.

It should be noted that instead of soldering, spot welding is used in production for batteries. But not everyone has a device for this type of connection, while a soldering iron is a more common device. That’s why soldering comes to the rescue at home.

Batteries and accumulators

When powering radio equipment from batteries and accumulators, it is useful to know the common connection diagrams for batteries and accumulators. The fact is that each type of battery has a permissible discharge current.

Discharge current is the most optimal value of the current consumed from the battery. If you consume a current from a battery that exceeds the discharge current, then this battery will not last long, it will not be able to fully deliver its calculated power.

You probably noticed that electromechanical watches use “finger” (AA format) or “little finger” (AAA format) batteries, and for a portable lamp flashlight larger batteries (format R14 or R20), which are capable of delivering significant current and have a large capacity. Battery size matters!

Sometimes it is necessary to provide battery power to a device that consumes significant current, but standard batteries (for example R20, R14) cannot provide the required current; for them it is higher than the discharge current. What to do in this case?

The answer is simple!

You need to take several batteries of the same type and combine them into a battery.

So, for example, if it is necessary to provide a significant current for the device, parallel connection of batteries is used. In this case, the total voltage of the composite battery will be equal to the voltage of one battery, and the discharge current will be as many times greater as the number of batteries used.

The figure shows a composite battery of three 1.5 volt batteries G1, G2, G3. If we take into account that the average value of the discharge current for 1 AA battery is 7-7.5 mA (with a load resistance of 200 Ohms), then the discharge current of a composite battery will be 3 * 7.5 = 22.5 mA. So, you have to take in quantity.

It happens that it is necessary to provide a voltage of 4.5 - 6 volts using 1.5 volt batteries. In this case, you need to connect the batteries in series, as in the figure.

The discharge current of such a composite battery will be the value for one cell, and the total voltage will be equal to the sum of the voltages of the three batteries. For three AA format (“finger”) elements, the discharge current will be 7-7.5 mA (with a load resistance of 200 Ohms), and the total voltage will be 4.5 Volts.

How to solder a battery yourself to avoid overheating

There is an opinion that batteries cannot be soldered due to the fact that they are strictly forbidden to overheat. But there is still one soldering method in which the soldered battery will not overheat.

So, in order to successfully carry out the battery soldering process, you only need soldering acid, solder and the soldering iron itself. It is very important to be careful at every stage to avoid injury, burns or wounds.

First, using a special brush or any object that you would not mind throwing away, you need to apply a drop of soldering acid to the surface of the battery. Then, with a well-heated soldering iron, apply a drop of tin to this place. To do this, you need to touch the tin wire with the soldering iron tip, and then apply the tin-coated tip to the place where the soldering acid was applied. In this case, the contact of the tip and the battery should not last more than 1-2 seconds. This time will be enough to leave a clear drop of tin on the surface.

The use of soldering acid in this case ensures a reliable connection of a drop of tin to the surface of the battery. In fact, the conductor will be soldered to this drop in the future. To do this, it is advisable to tin a pre-prepared wire and bring it to a drop of tin, then heat the place of their connection with a soldering iron for 1-2 seconds. A short contact time of the soldering iron with the surface of the battery will allow you to reliably solder and avoid any overheating of the battery itself.

This video shows the entire soldering process.

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