How is the water heater attached to the wall? Boiler: how to install it yourself

A water heater has long ceased to be considered a luxury item. Currently, such equipment is installed in almost every home. The most popular are flow-through and storage electric heaters water. We offer you an overview of the main advantages and disadvantages of the mentioned equipment, as well as instructions for its use. self-installation and correct use.

Advantages

1. Compact sizes. The flow heater does not take up much space. At the same time, heater models are available for sale, equipped with a mixer and shower head, which allows for additional savings.
2. Fast heating. Unlike storage-type models, flow-through heaters begin to produce warm water 30-60 seconds after startup.
3. No restrictions on the volume of heated water. The user can receive exactly this amount hot water, which he needs, in contrast to storage tanks, the volume of which is limited.
4. Relatively low price.

Flaws

Instantaneous water heaters are best suited for houses and apartments equipped with electric stoves. In this case, the meter and electrical wiring will already comply with regulatory requirements.

Advantages and disadvantages of storage heaters

Advantages

1. No rework required electrical network. The storage heater can be plugged into a regular electrical outlet.
2. Economical. On average, per hour of operation, storage water heaters consume approximately the same amount of electricity as an ordinary vacuum cleaner. At the same time, models with the ability to regulate heating power are available for sale. The time required to prepare the required volume of water at the desired temperature directly depends on the installed power.
3. Possibility of arranging wiring for the bathroom and kitchen.

Flaws

The only one significant drawback storage water heaters are their impressive dimensions. However, today manufacturing companies offer their consumers big choice space-saving heater models. For example, if you wish, you can purchase a flat unit.

Installation of instantaneous water heater

Installation process instantaneous water heater does not require the performer to have any serious skills. There are two options for installing such a unit: for temporary use and for permanent operation.

Temporary connection

This option is usually used when it is necessary to obtain heated water without the possibility of connecting to central water supply. Once this option becomes available, the water heater can be easily turned off or even dismantled until the next use - it doesn’t take much time.

The most convenient for temporary use are models that are initially equipped with a mixer and shower head.

First step. Secure the heater in convenient location dowels and screws.

Second step. Remove the watering can from the hose home shower and connect the hose to the water heater inlet.

Third step. Connect the supplied watering can to the water heater outlet.

As a result, cold liquid will enter the heater from the mixer, be heated as it passes through it, and leave the supplied watering can already warm.

Always connected

This option is used in situations where the heater is planned to be used regularly. In this case, the unit is connected to the water supply system.

The connection is made according to the scheme already discussed, however, the supply and output of liquid are arranged permanently. For this connection, special tees and shut-off valves are used.

As a result, heated water will come out of the mixer.

After installing the heater, make sure that all connections are tight and only then accept the device for permanent use.

It is important to understand not only the procedure for connecting an instantaneous water heater, but also the features of its use.

The main rule: a flow-through water heater can only be turned on after the heater coil is completely filled with water.

If the heater coil is not sufficiently covered with liquid, it will break and it will become impossible to use the device.

Regardless of the connection option you choose flow heater The use of such a device is carried out in the following order:

Turning off the device is carried out in a similar manner - you turn off the heater, wait until cold liquid starts flowing from the shower head, and only then turn off the water supply.

Storage heater installation

In the case of storage heaters, temporary installation is not provided. You, of course, can connect an ordinary hose with a watering can to the warm water outlet, but using such a unit will be absolutely inconvenient.

First step. Select appropriate place to install the water heater and check the wall.

Flow models are quite light in weight. Cumulative ones will put a much more significant load on the wall. Therefore, when choosing a place to install the heater, you need to pay attention not only to the ease of pipe installation, but also to the strength of the surface.

As a rule, heaters with a volume of up to 200 liters are attached to the wall. Tanks of larger volume require exclusively floor installation. If the heater has a volume of more than 50 liters, it is recommended to attach it exclusively to a load-bearing wall.

Second step. Prepare everything necessary equipment for installing a water heater.

You will need:

• a hammer drill (if the wall is concrete) or an electric impact drill (if the wall is brick);
• marker;
• tape measure;
• a tile drill (if the surface where the heater will be mounted is tiled);
• safety valve;
• FUM tape;
• dowels and fastening hooks;
• building level.

If the required wiring is available with pre-mounted tees and shut-off valves, installation of the storage heater is carried out in an extremely simple sequence.

First step. Step back approximately 150-200 mm from the ceiling surface and leave marks on the wall for future holes. Thanks to this gap, you can conveniently lift the water heater for hanging and removing the tank.

Second step. Armed with a drill (hammer) with a suitable drill bit, make holes in the wall with a depth corresponding to the length of the mounting hooks.

Third step. Hammer the dowels into the prepared holes, and then screw the screws into them. Be sure to leave a gap to accommodate the water heater mounting strip.

Fourth step. Install the tank onto the mountings.

Fifth step. Install a safety valve at the cold fluid inlet. With its help, excessive pressure will be removed from the system. Drain tube excess liquid connect to the sewer pipe. This tube can also be carefully inserted into the toilet tank.

Sixth step. Connect the pipe cold water to the water heater inlet. The entrance is marked blue. Connection must be made exclusively through the safety valve. At the outlet (marked in red) connect the pipe for the output of the finished hot liquid.

Again, note the importance of the safety valve. Without such a device, the tank may be seriously damaged or even rupture due to excessive pressure build-up during hot water preparation.

If there is a safety valve, the excess pressure will simply be released and the device will continue to operate in normal conditions. Also, using the safety valve, you can quickly and conveniently drain water from the heater if necessary to perform maintenance and repair work on the equipment.

Thus, installing a water heater is not particularly difficult. If you wish, you can install and connect the storage model or flow-through heater yourself. It is enough just to follow the provisions of the presented guide and everything will definitely work out.

Good luck!

Video - DIY water heater installation

A water heater has a simpler name - a boiler. This is an ideal alternative to the lack of hot water supply in the house. In addition, it allows you to save money on utility bills.

Usually the boiler is installed either in the bathroom or in the kitchen. However, if we are talking about country house, then it is possible to install the device on the roof.

Design Features

The design of any water heater necessarily includes fastenings. They vary depending on where the boiler is installed - on the wall or on the floor.

With a floor-standing device, everything is relatively simple. But installation to the wall is carried out using steel fasteners on the back side of the tank body for heating water. In this case, you will need dowels, the dimensions of which must correspond to the fastenings on the boiler. By the way, there are devices that require removing the back panel. The dowels are attached with a construction gun. If there is none, then you need to drill holes for screws for fastening using a hammer drill or drill.

Typically, fasteners - steel hooks - are included with the water heater. Parts should only be used if they are of high quality. Their diameter should exceed one centimeter.


The water equipment market is represented by three main types of boilers. The method of installation work will depend on their type:

• Indirect heating. The peculiarity is the absence of heating elements; heating of the liquid is possible from external sources. The design can be both wall and floor.
• Gas storage. The liquid is in a special container and is heated by the combustion of gas. It is recommended to entrust installation to specialists.
• Electric storage. Heating of the liquid is provided by heating elements at the bottom of the tank; the water temperature is regulated by a thermostat. Most popular due to ease of installation, connection and operation.

Selecting a location

Regardless of where the boiler will be located - in the bathroom or in the kitchen - you should pay attention to a number of nuances:

• the device must be located near communications (water and electricity);
• installation is optimal in the plumbing compartment;
• compactness of the device in the case of a small square footage of the room;
• the wall must withstand the potential load, not only from the device itself, but also from the water poured into it;
• humidity in the place is potentially installed structure should not be high. Otherwise, the device will easily fail.

If the owner of the premises has chosen a bathroom as the location for the tank, he should keep in mind the possible inconveniences if the heater is mounted above the bathroom itself.

How to mount the device?

Walls made of bricks or blocks are considered ideal for installing a water heater, but it is highly undesirable to mount them on a thin wall. However, fastening to other types of materials is also acceptable. The most common:

• drywall,
• tile,
• tree,
• lining,
• foam blocks,
• plaster.

Let's look at the installation features for each type of wall.

Drywall

Experts consider drywall a capricious material and question its load resistance. However, there are two effective ways, with which you can install a boiler in a room lined with sheets of plasterboard:

• installation on reinforcement, which is laid under the wall cladding material;
• installation on holes made in the wall.

Tile

Sometimes during repairs the question arises: when is it better to install a heating tank - before or after laying the tiles. It's good to have options. What if the tiles are already laid? Qualified specialists believe that in this case three conditions must be met:

• glue evenly applied to the tiles;
• the tiles must be laid without voids;
• the wall must be made of solid materials that do not allow the tiles to sag or wobble.

If all requirements are met, then any water heater can be mounted on top of the tiles.

Tree

Information about mounting the tank on wooden surface full of contradictions. According to some sources, installation on wood is extremely undesirable, since the wall will not be able to withstand the colossal load, which will become even greater after the boiler is filled with water.

According to other sources, the installation is acceptable. True, with a caveat. Before fixing the water heater, it is important to select a non-combustible base for the unit in accordance with fire safety rules.

Lining

This material in this case is considered capricious. Therefore, you cannot do without special conditions for the installation process. It will take two vertical beams, which need to be carefully processed and painted to match the color of the lining or tank. They are permanently attached, and the water heater is already hung on them. The lining itself is not capable of supporting the weight of the boiler.

Foam concrete

Special fastenings such as nylon spiral dowels will be required. If the volume of the device exceeds 100 liters, it makes sense to use metal fasteners. Two fastening options are acceptable - using metal dowels or using special or chemical anchors for foam concrete. The option using a chemical (or adhesive) anchor is considered the most reliable and modern, as well as environmentally friendly.

Plaster of Paris

There are two installation options:

• Cutting holes in the slabs for the frame (metal profile pipes) with subsequent fixation to permanent surfaces such as ceilings, floors or walls.
• Using two 40x4 metal bars bent at right angles. They will be used as fastenings. One end of each bus goes to the anchor to concrete ceilings, and the other for additional fixation - on dowels to the wall.

Tools required for work

To install a water heater you will need:

• instructions describing the connection;
• pencil;
• metal hooks;
• dowels and screws;
• roulette;
• construction gun;
• hammer drill or drill;
• hoses;
• network cable;
• water purification filter;
• pipes

Clarification regarding hoses for supplying water to the unit: better, more expensive, but more reliable. Flexible products may fail ahead of schedule. It is desirable if the elements for supplying pipes are copper.

Doing it yourself is a task quite feasible even for a non-specialist.

You will have to work a little, but you will be able to save some money.

You just need to have an understanding of the features of installing such equipment, for which you should read this article.

Any installation begins with the preparation of tools. If it is fully equipped, then the work will be done quickly and efficiently.

To install the boiler you will need:

• drill with impact mechanism or a hammer drill plus a set of concrete drills;
• screwdriver;
• a grinder if the water supply is made of metal pipes, or a pipe cutter if it is made of plastic;
• a pair of gas wrenches or adjustable wrenches;
• building level;
• pliers.

Additionally, you may need a tool for installing pipe connections:

• for steel water supply: welding machine and a set of dies for threading;
• for polypropylene: a heater for welding pipeline parts (it is called a soldering iron or iron);
• for metal-plastic: press pliers, if you plan to use press fittings, as well as calibration to align the end of the pipe before installing the fitting.

In addition to tools, you will need sealing material to seal the threaded connections between the pipeline elements. Experienced craftsmen To do this, use tow or sanitary linen in combination with Unipak paste, but for a beginner it will be easier to work with FUM tape or a special flax thread like “Tanget Unilock”.

Installation procedure

Includes the following steps:

• hanging on the wall;
• connection .

Issued and floor boilers, but in everyday life you most often have to deal with wall-mounted ones. When filled, the device is heavy, so it can only be attached to a solid wall. It is important to choose the correct diameter and length of fasteners:

Table for selecting the size of anchor bolts taking into account the volume of the water heater and the wall material

Water heater volume, l	Base (wall) material	Recommended bolt diameter, M	Recommended bolt length, mm
30-50	15-25	Cinder block, brick	8-10	80-100
		Concrete	6-8	60-80
80-100	25-35	Cinder block, brick	10-12	100-120
		Concrete	8-10	80-100
150-200	45-60	Cinder block, brick	12-14	120-150
		Concrete	10-12	80-120

Most convenient anchor bolts with hooks - you just need to hang the boiler on them after screwing it into the wall. But some devices do not have hooks for hanging on such bolts - they will require anchor bolts with heads for a Phillips screwdriver or hexagon.

Water heater connection diagram

On thin wall made of brick (half or even a quarter of a brick thick) or made of foam blocks, gypsum blocks, reinforced gypsum, the water heater must be secured using ordinary bolts, which must penetrate through the wall. A washer 1.5 - 3 mm thick is installed under the nut, the diameter of which should be larger, the heavier the boiler is and the thinner the wall.

When fixing devices with a volume of more than 100 liters, sections of corners are placed under the nuts, with the help of which the load is distributed over a sufficiently large area.

Anchor bolts located at the same height must lie on a strictly horizontal straight line, so markings for them should be made using a building level.

The distance between the boiler pipes and water pipes should be large enough to accommodate everyone necessary elements fittings (they are listed below). Usually 30 - 50 cm is enough.

Connection to the water supply system

Before connecting the boiler to the water supply, the root valves installed at the hot and cold water supply to the apartment must be closed. Next, you need to open the taps on any of the mixers in order to relieve pressure in the pipes.

After this you need to follow the instructions:

1. After the root valve, a check valve can be installed at the “hot” riser. This measure is not mandatory - the valve is needed only in case the user forgets to turn off the root valve. Without a valve in such a situation, heated water from the boiler would flow into the “hot” riser.
2. A tee is screwed to the boiler pipe for injecting cold water (usually marked in blue), sealing threaded connection FUM tape or flax. You will need to screw this tee to the side outlet - it is necessary to empty the boiler.
3. Next, a check valve is screwed to the tee in such a position that it opens as cold water moves into the boiler (this direction is indicated by an arrow on the valve body). If this element is not installed, heated water will flow into the cold pipeline as a result of expansion, and hot water will flow from the cold tap on the mixer, just like from the hot one. The valve will not allow water to expand into the cold line and, in addition, will eliminate heat exchange between hot water in the boiler and cold in the supply pipe. A check valve is also needed to prevent the leakage of heated water when the cold water is turned off.

Connection to water supply

In the instructions for some boilers, manufacturers prohibit installing any elements between the check valve and the water heater pipe. In this case, you will have to abandon the tee with the drain valve. Then, to empty the boiler, you will need to unscrew the check valve from the nozzle and slightly bend the supply pipe section so that you can put a hose on the nozzle. Water, if all the faucets are closed, will flow out only in a small amount, so it will be enough to place a small container or a rag under the nozzle. After securing the hose, its second end is placed in the toilet and the “hot” tap on some mixer is opened - air will begin to flow into the boiler and water will flow out of it freely.

TO check valve screw shut-off valves.

If the boiler is installed in a toilet above the toilet cistern, it must be mounted at such a height that ball valve did not end up behind the tank, where it would be difficult to get to him.

1. You need to cut a tee into the cold water pipe and then connect its side outlet with a pipe and a ball valve.
2. A ball valve must be screwed onto the hot water outlet pipe of the boiler (marked in red). Like the tap on the “cold” inlet, it serves to cut off the boiler when the centralized hot water supply is functioning.
3. You need to cut a tee into the hot water supply pipe under the pipe and then connect its side outlet to the tap with a pipe.
4. The boiler has a relief valve through which excess water is removed when it expands as a result of heating. This process occurs constantly and is normal for the boiler. On the nozzle of this valve you need to put a silicone or rubber tube (possibly from a dropper), the second end of which is inserted into the toilet tank, into the sewer or into some container (it will have to be emptied periodically).

Hot and cold water pipes are usually located one below the other and when connecting to the lower one, the upper one has to be bypassed. This is why it is most convenient to connect a water heater metal-plastic pipes- they can be given a curved shape. At the same time use to connect flexible liner Not recommended.

The instructions for the boiler indicate the maximum permissible pressure which he can withstand. It happens that the pressure in the water supply is higher (in multi-storey buildings) and in this case it will be necessary to install a reducer in front of the water heater.

Water heater and autonomous water supply

Autonomous water supply is often gravity-based, that is, the water source is a tank installed in the attic, into which water is pumped using a pump.

What matters is the height difference between the outlet fitting of this tank and the water heater:

1. If less than 2 m: A tee is screwed directly to the outlet fitting of the tank, the branches of which are connected by pipes to the mixer and the inlet pipe of the water heater.
2. More than 2 m: The tee for distributing water to the boiler and mixer is installed below the boiler level, laying a pipe to it (the tee) from the tank.

The first scheme differs from the second in the presence of, which is installed on the outlet (hot) pipe of the water heater.

Electrical connection

Heating element power domestic boiler is quite large - it is 3.5 kW or more. Therefore, before connecting you need to evaluate the possibilities home wiring. In new homes, wiring is usually designed to handle such loads.

In old houses, a separate wire is laid from the switchboard to connect the boiler.

In both cases, it is necessary to provide a connection to the grounding circuit. In addition, it is necessary to install an RCD with a leakage current setting of 10 mA.

Hot water in the tap is a rather inconsistent phenomenon. Centralized hot water supply depends on several factors, which ordinary consumers cannot influence. Annual maintenance and protracted repairs of old pipes make us think about alternative options supply of warm water. And an increase in utility tariffs only pushes people faster towards their intended goal - installing a water heater.

This article details all the steps required to connect and operate popular water heaters.

Is self-installation of a boiler allowed?

From a legal point of view, installing a water heater yourself is quite acceptable. The only caveat is the preparation of permits associated with additional risks, for example, for connecting a gas water heater. However, basic knowledge on plumbing are required when installing any water heater. After all, every mistake can lead to damage to equipment and flooding of neighbors with all the proceedings. But if you strictly follow the recommendations below, there will be no problems.

Moreover, self-installation provides a number of undeniable advantages:

• Saving money on calling a specialist, incl. when dismantling old equipment.
• Acquiring the skills necessary for further maintenance of the device.
• Save time.

Types of water heaters

Among the devices sold in stores, there are several options for basic devices, which differ not only in heating power, but also in their operating principle:

Instantaneous water heaters

Their essence is that the water flow is heated instantly due to the built-in heating elements.

• Gas. Here, the burning gas heats the heat exchanger, which, in turn, heats the water.
• Electrical. In them, the flow of water triggers a relay that controls the heating element.

Storage water heaters

Such devices are a metal water tank, ranging in size from 50 to 300 liters, inside which there is a a heating element. Due to excellent thermal insulation and special sensors, the boilers constantly maintain the set water temperature, which is automatically heated when cooling.

• Gas. The heat exchanger that heats the water is presented in the form of a brass or copper coil, which is located either at the bottom of the boiler or distributed throughout the entire body. Such a coil receives heat already from gas burner located in the lower compartment of the boiler.
• Electrical. In this case, heating occurs due to the heating element, which can be wet - in direct contact with water and “dry” without direct access to the liquid. In the second case, special insulation from water - thermoenamel - also protects the metal from corrosion, which extends its service life by several years. A magnesium anode is provided to protect the internal walls of the tank from corrosion.

Storage water heaters, depending on the type of design, are divided into:

• Vertical. The peculiarity of their operation is that the tube through which cold water enters is located at the bottom of the tank, and for the output of hot water - at the top. Due to the difference in density, hot water always remains at the top and cold water at the bottom, which prevents them from mixing. As a result, the consumer always receives warm water at the specified temperature.
• Horizontal. This type is installed mainly when there is not enough space. It should be borne in mind that mixing cold and hot water is inevitable, therefore temperature regime The water will have to be adjusted with a mixer.
• Floor-standing. Their main difference is the large tank volume. This type boilers are produced from 200 liters. For such giants, floor mounting is the only possible option.

Tools for work

When installing a storage water heater with your own hands or replacing an old rusty one, you need the same tools:

• Building level. When choosing, you need to pay attention to the accuracy, which varies from 0.5 to 1 mm/m - the lower this figure, the better. The length of the body is also important, the boundaries of which range from 300 to 1000 mm. On large surfaces it is better to mark with a long level.
• Adjustable wrench. Most of the models on the market will be “set” to the required width of the nuts, but it will be more convenient to work with a wrench with thin tendrils. There are no rough parts when installing the boiler.
• Pliers. For home installation It’s better to choose universal pliers from a good manufacturer.
• Marker. Exists different kinds“felt-tip pens” that write either on specific surfaces, or universal ones, which are more expensive. It is also worth considering the washability of the marking - it is only needed temporarily.
• Hammer.
• Medium #2 Phillips screwdriver.
• Roulette. It will be enough household option up to 3 meters long.

In addition to tools, you also need to buy polypropylene pipes and FUM tape, instead of which linen threads are sometimes used.

How to install a boiler in the bathroom

Installation of a water heater in an apartment is limited to two possible places - in the kitchen, which is not always advisable in the bathroom. Both options have two things in common: installing the device only on load-bearing walls and proximity to the outlet valve (an excessively long path through the pipes leads to cooling of the water). The height of the boiler does not have any clear restrictions - it just needs to be convenient for adjusting, for example, temperature conditions.

Below is the sequence of work for installing a boiler with your own hands in the bathroom.

Preparatory stage

Before starting work, you should take care of the installation location. The boiler must have unobstructed access for the entire period of its operation. It is also necessary to check the condition of risers and pipes. It often happens that during the installation of a boiler it is necessary to change the pipeline, because “tapping” into the waste material becomes impossible. One of the key factors is also reliable electrical wiring, since the load from the boiler is quite noticeable.

Compliance with technical requirements

How to install a storage water heater without damaging the wiring? After all, boilers have a powerful heating element a priori. Without it, the main function - heating water in a short period of time - will not be realized. The first requirement is a 4-6 mm2 cable and a meter with a power of at least 40 amperes. As calculations show, most old meters cannot cope with high loads and require replacement with new ones. To connect, you also need to purchase a special switch for the appropriate number of amperes and a 3*8 or 3*6 cable.

Direct installation

First you need to mark the location where the water heater is mounted on the wall:

• You need to mark the bottom point of the boiler on the wall with a marker.
• Measure the distance on the device from the bottom to the mounting strip located at the top of the boiler.
• Mark a second point on the wall, taking into account the measured gap.

After this, you can already drill the intended holes for fastenings. For concrete or brick wall necessary Victory drill. It is this that has hard alloy on the tip, which will not cut, but crumble hard material. At wooden wall you need to take a regular iron drill, since a pobedit one will simply tear the wood into fibers and the hole will be uneven.

Herself mounting strip The boiler is hung on hook anchors. To install them, you need to hammer the dowels into drilled holes. Next, screw in a special iron hook - the same anchor - to a depth of 8-12 cm until it stops. It will hold the weight of the water heater. The final touch is attaching the boiler to hooks. All! The device installation process is complete!

Connecting a storage water heater to the water supply system

Various materials can be used for connection:

• flexible hoses;
• metal-plastic pipes;
• polypropylene pipes.

The water supply connection diagram is simple.

The water heater has two special connectors. One is marked in blue for cold water supply, and the second is marked in red for hot water output. Among the components of the boiler there must be a safety valve, which is installed at the point of cold water intake. To do this, you must first wrap the joint with a sealant, then screw on the tap and secure the flexible hose to the fuse located in the lower part. But you can fix another option from the ones presented above. With a flexible hose, there is a small plus - a sealing tape is not needed, since the nut has a rubber lining with a similar function. In the same way, we install the second part of the hose to the pipe through which the hot water will be supplied.

Now you can take hold of the hose intended for cold water supply. One end must be connected to the pipeline, and the other must be screwed to the blue (for cold water) inlet of the water heater.

Important! Pre-installation of a tap in this place will make it possible to turn off the water if necessary.

Connecting electrical wiring

How to install a boiler is already clear. But how to connect it to the network correctly still remains to be figured out.

• If the boiler did not come with a cord with a plug and a safety relay, then you need to acquire them in advance.
• First, you need to place a grounded(!) socket near the boiler.
• Provide an alternative to the outlet in the form of a circuit breaker. In it, each of the three terminals has its own color - brown is for phase, blue is for zero, and the remaining yellow (the third color may vary) is for grounding. Now you can connect all the contacts and connect the voltage. At correct actions, the indicator on the boiler will light up.

Important! This cannot be done with an empty water heater!

Trial run

First you need to fill the boiler by opening the hot water tap. This removes all the air from the system. Then you should plug the water heater into the outlet. If the indicator lights up, then after a couple of hours, you can use the boiler constantly.

Important! Most often, low-power boilers are connected to the outlet - a maximum of 3 kilowatts.

Installation of instantaneous water heater

The easiest way to install a water heater at home is presented in a few steps:

• First, unscrew the “rain” in the shower hose.
• We screw the hose to the cold water inlet of the water heater.
• We set the mixer to the “shower” position - the operation of the water heater begins.
• If you turn the handle to the “faucet”, then cold water will flow from the tap without a water heater.

After choosing a water heater, regardless of its type, a question arises related to its installation. There are two ways: install the water heater yourself or entrust it to specialists. The second option is simpler and preferable for most people, but there is one drawback - the cost of services. For example, the cost of connecting a boiler up to 50 liters in Moscow will cost you 100 - 120 USD. And if you need to replace the old one, then to this amount you need to add 300 rubles for dismantling. The amount is not exorbitant, but why not try to keep it in your pocket by installing a water heater.

Installing a water heater with your own hands will take an average of 2 hours, if you have all the necessary tools. And the acquired skills will be useful in the future, and the amount intended to pay for the installation will remain with you.

Pros and cons of installing a water heater yourself

Popular wisdom insists that we “measure seven times” and cut only once. And I think this rule also applies to choosing the method of installing a water heater. If you don't have even the slightest experience plumbing work, it is best to trust the specialists. This especially applies to those cases when a water heater is installed in an apartment, and there are neighbors on the floor below. If something goes wrong, you risk flooding them.

But, if you are trying to carry out repair work yourself, then following step by step, install the water heater without any problems. To the advantages self-installation the following can be attributed:

• cost savings;
• saving time;
• acquiring skills that will become indispensable when servicing or repairing a water heater;
• when repair work in the room where the water heater is installed, you do not need to call a specialist for dismantling.

Schematic photo of water heater installation

In addition to choosing the model and type of water heater, even before starting work, you need to decide on the following points. Installation location:

• access to the water heater must be free throughout the entire period of operation;
• the wall on which the water heater is mounted must withstand double the weight (i.e., with a capacity of 50 liters, it is necessary to calculate a load of 100 kg);
• if the wiring in the home has not been changed for a very long time, it is necessary to determine its condition, cross-section and ability to withstand the load of an electric water heater (for example, for storage water heater power section 2000W copper wire should be 2.5mm2);
• condition of pipes and risers, if replacement has not been carried out or “points” for connecting the water heater have not been identified (according to own experience I know when, instead of installing a boiler, I was forced to change all the pipes in the apartment, since their condition did not allow them to “break in”).

Before starting work on installing a Termex water heater or any other, prepare all the necessary tools: a tape measure, a hammer drill with an appropriate drill, spanners and/or an adjustable wrench, two types of screwdrivers, wire cutters, and pliers.

Materials you will need: tow, paste (for example, Unipak) or fum tape, shut-off valves (3 pcs. for a storage water heater and 2 pcs. for a flow-through water heater), 2 or 3 tees, respectively, two flexible connecting hoses (if not included in the kit ), metal-plastic pipe (meterage depends on your conditions and connection location).

If you need to replace the wiring: a three-wire wire (you determine the length yourself), a machine or a socket. That's all, we bought the water heater, everything mentioned above is in stock - we can start installation.

Installation of an electric instantaneous water heater

A distinctive feature of this type of water heaters is their low weight and size, which significantly expands their installation location. For example, it is possible to install a water heater under the kitchen sink. But since water must be heated very quickly, they have very powerful heating elements installed. And this, in turn, places demands on the wiring, so depending on the performance of the device, cable laying from 4 to 6 mm2 is required. In addition, you should find out what current the meter is designed for; if it is less than 40A, you will need to replace it too. To connect an instantaneous electric water heater you will need circuit breaker for 32 - 40A, PVS cable 3X6 or 3X8, if the wiring in your apartment is not designed for the use of electric stoves.

Having solved the problem with the voltage supply, we proceed directly to the installation. This type The water heater has two connection options: stationary and temporary. Temporary is carried out using shower hose, and when hot water is supplied it can easily be turned off and not used. For this type of connection, it is necessary to supply cold water. To do this, we cut a tee into the pipe with cold water, install the shut-off valve and using flexible hose connect to the water heater inlet. We open the cold water tap, open the heated water outlet and plug it into the network, for 30 seconds we get hot water.

With a stationary method, the supply and intake of heated water will be carried out in parallel common system water supply To do this, we need two tees, we cut them into the hot and cold water pipe. We install the taps, do not forget to make the connection airtight using tow with sealing paste or fum tape. Next, depending on your choice of connection method, we connect the cold water pipe to the inlet to the heater, the cold water supply is indicated in blue. We connect the heated water outlet using a hose or metal-plastic pipe to the hot water shut-off valve. We open the taps and mixer, check if everything is sealed, if there is no leak, plug in the machine or plug into the socket, hot water should come out of the mixer. With a stationary connection method, do not forget to shut off the hot water riser if you live in apartment building. Otherwise, the heated water will go into the pipes to the neighbors.

Installation of an electric storage water heater

A distinctive feature of storage-type electric water heaters is their significantly lower price and the absence special requirements to electrical wiring. That's why they are more common.

Let's look at the step-by-step installation of a storage water heater with your own hands:

• At the selected location, mark a place for attaching the boiler to the wall. Using a tape measure, measure the distance between the axes of the holes in the anchors of the water heater. Using a hammer drill, we drill holes for the dowels; depending on the design of the water heater, there can be 2 or 4 of them, as a rule, there are two of them. Insert the dowels and hammer/tighten the hooks. One more thing when marking, measure the height from the holes on the boiler anchors and its highest point. The same distance, with a small margin, must be maintained from the dowel to the ceiling or the top of the niche in which the installation is carried out. If you do not do this, you will not be able to put the devices on the hooks.​

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• After our water heater is fixed to the wall, we proceed to connecting the water supply. If the connection points have already been drawn out, there is nothing simpler - we connect the input and output of the heater using flexible hoses or pipes. If the connection is made using flexible hoses, you will not need tow, because The tightness of such a connection is achieved through a sealing rubber gasket. When entering cold water into the boiler (marked in blue), do not forget to install a special valve to relieve excess pressure (shown in the photo). It is usually included in the kit, if not, purchase it, it is a must have. Before shut-off valve, it is advisable to install another tee and connect a tap to it. You can do without it, but then with maintenance It will be more difficult to drain the water from the water heater. This point is highlighted in the official video below on installing an Ariston water heater. We wrap tow with paste or fum tape around all joints.

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• If there are no leads, you need to install them. In the event that your water supply is installed with metal-plastic pipes, the work will take about 20 minutes, if metal pipes- more complicated. To “cut” tees into metal pipes, in addition to everything, you will need a die with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the pipe at the junction. You may need an appropriate adapter. The operating procedure is as follows: turn off the water, use a grinder to cut the pipe at the location where the tee is installed, use a die to cut the thread, wind the tow and connect the adapter or tee to the pipe, then install the faucet and proceed as in point 2. It is best to prepare the leads for the water heater in advance. We will not describe in more detail, since this type of work relates more to the installation of water supply systems; on our website there are articles with detailed description these works.
• After connecting the cold water, connect the hot water tap to the outlet on the water heater, it is marked in red. There are no additional elements no need.
• After connecting the water supply, open the cold and hot water tap, wait until air stops coming out of the hot water tap and water starts flowing. Along the way, we look to see if there are any leaks in the places where the connections were just made.
• If there is no leak, the air has been bled from the boiler, connect the power source. The connection method is up to you to choose; it can be a socket or a connection through a separate circuit breaker. On the boiler terminals, the contacts are marked, L - phase (usually corresponds to the brown wire in the plug or wiring), N - zero or return wire (usually blue) and grounding (yellow or any other in a three-wire wire). We connect and apply voltage, the operation indicator on the water heater should light up, adjust the temperature according to the operating instructions and use it.

​Don’t forget to look at the water heater installation manual Ariston, Termex and many other companies cover the connection procedure in sufficient detail. There is nothing fundamentally incomprehensible or complicated.

Step-by-step water heater installation video

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Installation of a gas water heater

This section of the article is intended to replace the geyser, because If it doesn't exist at all, you can't install it yourself. You need a corresponding project, all the approvals required by law. Otherwise, it is a violation of the Law with corresponding consequences.

If the corresponding project is available, the gas industry has carried out all the necessary work to connect the gas pipe to the column, installed gas meter- the rest of the work can be done yourself, i.e. install a gas instantaneous water heater.

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The work order is as follows:

1. At the installation site, according to the project, we mark holes for dowels in the same way as the method described above. We drill holes and hammer in hooks.
2. Hanging geyser on wall mounts.
3. Installing corrugation for drainage carbon monoxide into the chimney. One end of it should fit tightly into the chimney, the other should be placed on the outlet of the column. Make sure that the diameter of the corrugation matches the diameter of the outlet of the gas water heater.
4. Connecting gas pipe with the gas injection point in the column using a special certified rubber hose. Open the tap and let gas flow to the column. Cooking soap solution and “from the heart” we lubricate all the connections just made. We carefully look at these junctions to see if there are any “soap bubbles”. If they appear, use a wrench to tighten the hose connection nut and see if it helps or not. If gas leakage cannot be eliminated in this way, call a gas technician. But in my mind, it’s better to entrust such a connection to him, my dear gas industry. On the one hand, it is safer and more reliable, on the other hand, there will be no complaints against you.
5. The next operation is water supply. We carry it out either using flexible hoses, or PVC pipes, it's whatever you like. The procedure is similar to connecting an electric water heater, only without additional elements. That is, the sequence is as follows: pipe, tee, faucet, pipe or hose connecting to the column. You can install a salt filter on the cold water pipe - this will extend the life of the column. The cold water inlet, like on the boiler, is marked in blue. The hot water outlet is red.
6. We open the cold and hot water tap, pass it through the system and look for a leak. If we find it, we fix it: either tighten the nuts or rewind the tow. We tighten the nuts with feeling, without unnecessary zeal, and do not break the threads.
7. After making sure there are no leaks, install the power source and open the hot water tap. The column should turn on the water heating on its own and should run in a few seconds. warm water. We adjust the temperature according to the instructions for the gas water heater.

All of the above work costs from 60 USD. If you did everything yourself, you can be congratulated on your earnings.