Check valve for sewerage 110 mm sanit. What is a sewer air valve

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A 110 mm sewer check valve is required in our apartments to protect against wastewater entering the living spaces.

What it is?

Common house collectors have the form of long pipes arranged vertically. Fecal water above the clog will increase the level if the problem appears at the bottom. The city sewer system is protected from runoff of this nature.

Fecal water enters the apartment if its level rises above the toilets and sinks. Check valves are installed to prevent such problems.

The 110 mm sewer check valve belongs to the group of mechanical devices. They make it so that fecal water flows in one direction, but not in the other. Inside the device there is a valve or a hollow plastic ball; they block the movement of liquid in one direction. The movement is not stopped by the action of the valve or ball if the waters move straight.

The ball or flapper floats to the surface if the contents in the manifold begin to move back. OK with dampers are most often found in systems without pressure, and ball OK - in pressure systems.

There are several materials used for the manufacture of OK 110 mm:

1. polyethylene;
2. steel;
3. cast iron;
4. polypropylene.

The diameters of the product correspond to the sizes of pipes, which are accepted in the Russian Federation as a single standard. They are within:

• 40 mm;

IMPORTANT! The socket connection method is used for plastic products. Flanges help with fastenings if the parts are steel or cast iron.

OK 110 mm are either electrical or mechanical. They work on the same principle - liquid presses on the damper when it leaves the device. The higher the liquid level and its pressure, the more tightly the damper is pressed. Electric ones are distinguished by their ability to sound an alarm in a situation close to an emergency.

What should you consider when choosing a valve?

You need to decide on the right installation location in order to make the right choice. OK for non-pressure sewerage is suitable for those who install the device at the exit of an apartment alarm. We choose a place in front of the public sewer. The diameters of sewer pipes and devices are equal to each other.

Installation of devices of any type is acceptable in front of the bathtub or sink. This is facilitated by the diameter of the models and the way they are attached to the surrounding space.

IMPORTANT! Cast iron or steel products 110 mm are not recommended for installation on plastic pipes. Only plastic structures are suitable. For this purpose, special adapters are used, made of the same material. The main rule during installation is that the fasteners must coincide with each other.

It is necessary to take into account where the OK 50 mm are located. On the packaging, manufacturers write in which plane certain parts are suitable for installation. Otherwise, the system will not be able to guarantee uninterrupted operation, and serious problems will arise when processing waste and garbage.

Inexpensive OK models cost about 500 rubles and more. Some cost 10 thousand rubles, but they do not have any serious advantages.

Maintenance and installation rules

Before installing the element, you need to agree with your neighbors. We need to ask them to stop using sewerage for a while. Otherwise, all fecal waste flows into the apartment where renovations are being carried out.

We crash into pipes made of steel and cast iron

First we measure the diameter of the pipe. You need to purchase two plastic adapters. One should have a slightly smaller diameter, the other a little larger. You will need a device with a compensator effect, a special type of pipe. Their diameter should be the same as that of OK. A difference of more than 5 cm is unacceptable.

After this, you can begin assembling the structure. Installing it is simple. To do this you need:

• adapter to OK;
• the check valve itself;
• pipe material for three or four, 50 cm long.
• compensator (inserted all the way).
• the pipes are connected by adapters.

Non-return valve for sewerage.

We measure the total length, add 5 cm to it. We measure the same distance on the pipe that is adjacent to the riser. We count the distance from the point where the next part enters the socket.

The pipe is cut according to the markings, for which you can use a grinder or an angle grinder. You also need to cut it 20-30 cm closer to the place where the next element enters the socket. 50 will be a lot. Let's take out the piece we cut off earlier. We take out the remaining part from the hole. We clean the connection itself, the pipe. We put on the product, the adapter and the socket are connected. We managed to install the system.

How to work with plastic pipes?

We purchase a plastic pipe and a sewer compensator with the appropriate diameters. You need to buy adapters if there is a significant difference between the products. If necessary, these structures can be easily assembled. The same applies to OK itself.

We measure the length of the valve. We measure the same distance on the surface. We need the part adjacent to the collector. And here again we take the socket connection with the next pipe as a reference point. We mark the required distance on the pipe, adding another 5 centimeters to the amount. We make another mark 20-30 cm to the junction with the next one. All that remains is to cut according to the marks. 50 cm is rarely used.

Align the cut on the surface using a file. The flare connection also needs to be cleaned. We put the structure on the scrap. Insert the next part. Each sewer joint is sealed if necessary.

These are products with the simplest possible design. They do not require repair or replacement if you follow all the rules and requirements set by the manufacturers. It is enough to inspect the structures from time to time. This will help you understand if your work environment is leaking.

If necessary, the bolts are sometimes tightened. Draining a pipeline section helps to monitor performance and check leaks. When drainage is complete, owners check the pressure gauges in the area being examined. No changes in blood pressure? This means that the valve works reliably and stably.

When the pressure drops on both pressure gauges, it means there are leaks in the area. In this case, the product is dismantled and then completely cleaned. Contamination of the flow area is the most common cause of problems. Inspection and maintenance are required for valves if they are jammed in some area.

The seats for the rod with the plate are where increased attention is required during inspection. They are located both on the body and on the lid. The check valves close and do not respond if such seats are broken. On the rod itself, wear is sometimes also present. This is especially true for products made from nitrile-nylon. Then you will have to buy a new check valve.

Spring breakage is one of the reasons that the sewer valve may not close. We simply pull out the rod with the spring to correct the situation. The device will have to be heated using a hair dryer for maximum results. The main thing is to heat the surface carefully. Otherwise, the entire rubber seal may be damaged.

When the sewer system, be it an apartment building or a country house, there is an overflow of contents from the sewer pipes.

The presence of a terrible smell and repairs are guaranteed. It’s good if you don’t have to replace the furniture. In general terms, the problem is painful and eliminating its consequences is very costly.

A non-return valve for sewerage is installed to stop overflow.

List of reasons

• Deterioration of sewer lines (poor flow capacity)
• Ingress of large debris
• Residents doing renovations flush waste construction materials down the toilet.

What to do?

When there is a blockage in the sewer riser, the reason is no longer important. Apartments on the first two floors suffer. The sewer column rarely rises higher.

The speed at which our emergency services work is needless to say. By the time they get there, they will identify and eliminate the cause. The entire home may be filled with sewage. To put it mildly, this will cause discomfort.

It is generally accepted that the culprit is large debris, but in fact it only reduces the throughput, but subsequent discharges of sewage lead to the final blockage of the system, which is the reason for the rise of the column. As you know, water will always find a hole and the toilet will be the first one in its path.

According to the same scheme, a traffic jam is formed in an incorrectly designed and installed system. It is enough to disturb the angle of the pipe, and a quick blockage is guaranteed.

The old sewer system itself is potentially dangerous. She served her purpose a long time ago. The internal diameter of the pipes is greatly narrowed; a plastic bag is enough for an accident to occur.

In private homes, such overflows can be caused not only by disruption of the sewage system, but also by a sharply rising groundwater level.

Solving the problem with a check valve

A check valve is a solution to the problem.

Types of check valves

The sewer check valve is available in several versions:

Materials

Manufacturers use three materials for the product - plastic, steel and cast iron.

The check valve for sewerage can be for horizontal or vertical installation.

A product with vertical installation is called– vertical check valve or coupling valve.

For your information

There are universal sewer check valves - flanged ones.

Flange products have a diameter from 40 to 600 mm, for this reason they are the most popular. The most commonly used valves are 50mm and 110mm in diameter.

Now plastic valves are gaining popularity, since the vast majority of water mains use PVC pipes.

Valve operating principle

Each check valve model is designed to block the reverse flow of drains. The closing mechanism is made in the form of a plate or ball. Models with a shutter are more popular.

The valve body has an inlet and an outlet. Inside the case there is a chamber with a locking mechanism. Due to the different diameters, pressure is generated in the nozzles, and the ball allows liquid to flow unhindered; as soon as the direction of movement of the drains changes, the ball completely blocks the flow.

The "plate" works on the same principle. When there is pressure, it rises freely, when the pressure changes, it falls and stops the movement of the liquid.

Overlapping plates are used in models with large diameters. The 110mm sewer check valve belongs to this category.

Each valve is equipped with a cover that is tightly bolted on. If necessary, it can be easily dismantled - this is required for cleaning the device and monitoring its operation.

Installation

The protection device can be installed not only on outlet pipes, but also on each plumbing unit separately.

Installation in several places is more reliable. It allows you to protect the valve from overload if a serious accident occurs.

The locking device is installed simultaneously with the organization of the sewer system, but if everything is already ready, then you can install the valve using a tap-in.

• When inserting into a finished system, it should be taken into account that the diameter of the product’s nozzles must match the diameter of the pipes; otherwise, installation will have to be carried out with adapters.
• Many valve models are equipped with a mechanical shutter that allows manual shutoff, which is sometimes necessary.
• To install the product in the desired direction, you just need to look at the arrow on the body; it points in which direction the drains should move.
• A prerequisite for installation is the tightness of the connecting seams.

Shut-off valves with a diameter of 110 mm are suitable for almost all types of sewer pipes. This size is standard.

Check valve 110 mm consists of:

• Plastic or metal housing
• Overlapping mechanism in the form of a plate
• A spring that is compressed when pressure is applied, and which expands when pressure is dropped to press the disc tightly.
• Lever for manual control.

Important for installation:

• The valve must be freely accessible for maintenance.
• Number of protective mechanisms.

Results

Installing a check valve yourself is not difficult. You should strictly follow the instructions and choose the right product.

We continue the series of publications devoted to sewerage systems - the basic principles of their arrangement, design and installation rules, requirements for safe operation, recommendations for regular preventive maintenance. A properly planned and assembled sewer system should not bring much trouble to the owner of a house or apartment. However, the specificity of this engineering system is such that even a minor accident sometimes turns into a real “tragedy”.

The topic of today’s consideration is a special device in the sewerage system, which is precisely designed to minimize the consequences of certain accidents. The device, which, by the way, not everyone knows about, will be useful both for owners of a country house and for owners of apartments, especially those located on the lower floors. This is a non-return valve for sewerage: what is it for, how it works and works, what is assessed when choosing, where and how it is installed.

What is a check valve for?

And those who at least once in their lives have experienced a “fountain” of sewage from a toilet, which sometimes floods not only the bathroom, but also spreads to neighboring rooms, can tell about this very emotionally. It is perhaps difficult to imagine a more disgusting cataclysm at the everyday level. Not only do you have to fight a banal flood - the water is saturated with sewage, and you have to overcome all your disgust. And then – and fight the remaining “odors”, which, after the most thorough cleaning, still do not go away immediately.

How can this happen? After all, the sewer system is designed and installed so that water constantly, along the entire length of the laid vertical and horizontal sections of pipes, has a free exit by gravity, under the influence of gravitational forces?

Yes, indeed, this should not happen. However, this can be caused either by improperly laid pipes or by violations of sewerage operating rules.

For example, there are clearly formulated recommendations for the slope of pipes, depending on their diameter. But sometimes the “masters” believe that they are smarter than the SNiP developers, and, perhaps, in order to simplify the wiring, they act in their own way, giving a bias “by eye”. But this can already lead to the emergence of sections of the route that are potentially vulnerable to clogging. Moreover, what is interesting is that neither a smaller nor even a steeper slope is acceptable - everything must be in accordance with the recommendations.

Slope of sewer pipes - what is needed, and why is it so important?

It would seem that what’s wrong with increasing the slope - after all, the water will only begin to drain faster? It turns out that such “self-will” can then be punished by getting a dense, difficult to break through blockage. What it should be like - read in a special publication on our portal.

Such consequences can be caused by pipe deflection if the sand cushion was poured poorly, a turn made without using a well, or a difference in the depth of the underground route. There may be other reasons, so to speak, of a “design” nature.

But this applies more to owners of houses with an autonomous drainage system. Here it is somewhat simpler, since if the drains have clearly begun to drain poorly, the owner usually immediately begins to “sound the alarm” and take some urgent radical measures to restore the functionality of his system. And until now he prohibits his household from loading the sewer system.

But truly catastrophic floods are still more typical of apartments on the lower floors of city high-rise buildings. Here we have to blame not the design defects of the sewer system, but the extremely low level of culture (or, banally, general intellectual development) of the individual residents of the house.

Without thinking at all about the consequences and ignoring comments (and sometimes reacting aggressively to them), they stubbornly continue to throw into the sewer pipes (mainly, of course, through the toilet) everything that can pass through it. This includes plastic bags, plain paper, rags, large food scraps, potato peelings and more.

The reasons why toilets turn into “mud volcanoes” are a blockage in the riser or pipe of the subsequent horizontal section.

All of these are prerequisites for the formation of traffic jams in the riser (shown as a red ellipse in the diagram) or in the pipes after the riser moves to a horizontal section, for example, in the basement of a high-rise building. As a result, the replenishing drains have an external backwater, they have nowhere to go, and they begin to fill the cavities of the pipes. Outwardly, this may not appear immediately, or it may be noticed by the owners with a delay, that is, the entire rise of apartments on all floors continues to actively use the sewerage system.

The first open point for the free exit of water (according to the law of communicating vessels) is precisely the toilet of the apartment located first above the blockage. Here's a flood with sewage!

Horizontal sections of pipes are still more susceptible to plugging. Therefore, the first floors are in the main “risk zone”. But residents of other floors should not calmly “rest on their laurels” - the practice of master plumbers knows dozens of examples of the formation of traffic jams on vertical risers.

And the owners of houses with an autonomous sewer system, the correct installation of which they have absolutely no doubt about, cannot be complacent either.

It is clear that it is much easier to restore order among your household by teaching them the rules of sewerage operation. But where is the guarantee that while playing, a child will not flush some of his soft toy or something else down the toilet that could cause a blockage to form? So a flood can also happen, although, of course, it will not be as large-scale, since a good owner will immediately begin to take adequate measures.

In addition, in a private house there is another potential threat of flooding of housing through the sewer system - during very heavy or long-term rains, during massive snow melting, during flood periods, when sewers may overflow and fail to cope with their function of timely removal of the collected volumes of wastewater. .

The following conclusion suggests itself: in order to protect your “possessions” from such troubles, you need some kind of device located between the riser and the internal apartment wiring. Such that it freely allows sewage to flow outwards, towards the drain, but at the same time, reliably closes the passage for any “gifts” from the outside. This is exactly the role (and not only, by the way) that a non-return valve for sewage performs.

By the way, sometimes another ability of such a check valve becomes very relevant. There are many cases where sewer pipes become a “tunnel” for uninvited guests – rats – to enter the house. And in the southern latitudes, according to reports, sometimes more “exotic” representatives of the animal world, for example, reptiles, make their way. So - a check valve on a sewer pipe will perfectly protect the house from such an unwanted “visit”.

How does a sewer check valve work?

The check valve device is usually simple. Their very name already makes it clear that it should exclude the possibility of fluid flow in the opposite direction to the normal direction. The shutter (damper) is lowered down in the neutral position, and even with a small pressure of discharged sewage, it will open, giving way to them. But if there is movement in the opposite direction (caused by overflowing the pipe further along the route), the valve will immediately block the passage.

Prices for non-return valve for sewerage

check valve for sewerage

Differences between valves according to the method of insertion into the system

The valves are installed on sewer pipes of various diameters.

• As a rule, models used at the household level are brought to the standards of plastic sewer pipes with a socket connection - from 50 mm and above.

• Starting with a diameter of DN200 and above (as a rule, in private practice one does not encounter such sewer lines), metal valves with a flange connection are usually used. When installing them, it is already necessary to involve specialists, including to perform welding work - to weld the flanges at the required points along the route.

• Valves on metal sewer pipes may not be attached directly to the flanges, but rather installed between two flanges, which are then tightened in a circle with bolts or studs.

Such devices are more compact and easier to install, at least from the point of view that you have to crimp one set of studs on the flange. But on the other hand, there is no way to “squeeze” an inspection window into such valves, so if problems or blockages are suspected, mandatory dismantling will have to be carried out.

• In autonomous sewer systems - it is unlikely, but in centralized ones, yes, there may be check valves in a metal casing with branch pipes designed for installation in the sockets of old-style cast iron sewer pipes.

• Finally, there are check valves that are installed either at the beginning or at the end of the pipe. For example, equipped with their own external cuff, which is put on the outlet pipe (outlet) of the toilet. And then the socket of the sewer pipe is put on, and the damper is inside it.

Or, conversely, with a socket - for installation at the end of the last pipe along the route. For example, at the entrance to a differential or rotary well, or at the point of discharge from a pipe into a sewer.

Here, to a greater extent, it is not just protection from the backflow of sewage (although, in principle, the valve will cope with this task). But, rather, the spring-loaded flap becomes an insurmountable obstacle to the penetration of any unwanted living creatures, for example, rats, into the pipe channel. That is, in the absence of liquid flow, the mouth of the pipe will be kept closed.

Differences in the operating principle of the locking mechanism

Sewage check valves also differ according to the operating principle of their locking mechanism.

Rotary or reed valve

They are put in first place, if only because, probably, more than 90% of all valves (if not more) used on sewer pipes in an apartment or a private country house are of this design.

The device is simple. The shutter is a round flap hinged in the body of the product. The sash can be spring-loaded or even close simply under the influence of gravity. In models for horizontal installation, the movable mount of this “petal” is located on top.

When the waste material moves, the sash opens slightly under the pressure of the liquid. The larger the volume of waste moved, the more the shutter will open. But if the flow goes in the opposite direction (external support appears), the sash will be pressed by pressure against the saddle, to which it is well fitted. That is, the valve will not allow the return flow of sewage towards the house or, at the local level, towards the plumbing fixture.

The damper itself, unfortunately, is an obstacle to the free passage of large inclusions into wastewater. And if the owners still take liberties in the rules for operating the sewerage system (as discussed above), the valve itself sometimes becomes a site of blockage. Therefore, it is customary to equip such products with inspection windows. These openings can be closed with a cover secured with screws or latches, a screw plug, etc. In any case, this element of the valve design allows you to quickly and without any complicated dismantling get to the “problem” place in order to clean it.

There may be two butterfly valves in valves with a diameter of 110 mm or more. This is, firstly, insurance for guaranteed operation of the device if, say, some kind of obstacle to the tight fit of the sash lingers on the saddle of one of the dampers. And secondly, the second damper is usually equipped with a manual control handle. It allows you to quickly perform emergency shutdown of the valve if necessary. In some models, the handle makes it possible to set the maximum opening value of the sash - when there is a need to adjust the intensity of the flow of discharged waste.

However, most valves with one damper are still equipped with an emergency shut-off handle.

The most sophisticated models can also be equipped with an electric drive, which allows you to remotely control the closing of the damper. But the need for this in a not too large-scale home sewer network is controversial. However, it is, of course, the owner’s business.

Lift type locking mechanism

Not common, but still.

This is a valve assembled in a metal body with connecting flanges, the lower part of which is almost identical to a conventional valve gate valve. Only instead of the valve itself there is a cap attached to the top. It has a guide channel on the bottom side for moving the rod with the poppet valve. There is a spring that, when at rest, keeps the flapper pressed against the seat on the bottom of the valve body.

The force created by the spring is such that the flow of sewage with its pressure should lift the damper without any problems, that is, the passage opens. But if the movement of the liquid begins from the opposite side, the reverse flow will “help the spring”, that is, with its pressure it will tightly press the plate to the seat.

It must be said that this is not the most successful solution specifically for sewer lines, in which the drains may contain large inclusions. Due to the complexity of the shape of the channel in the body of such a valve, it can become a potential point of clogging. The removable lid, of course, allows for cleaning, but still. For dirty water with small-sized suspended impurities, it will still work, but for sewage with its “unpredictability,” it’s better not to.

Ball Type Check Valve

A very interesting and reliable design is a check valve with a ball-shaped damper. The movement of this ball in the cavity of the device body ensures that the passage for the flow of waste is blocked or opened.

The ball is made of synthetic rubber or an aluminum alloy, but again with a rubber coating. This is important in terms of its good fit to the capan seat. In many models, for maximum tightness of the valve when closed, its seat is also equipped with an elastic ring gasket.

There is a cavity in the upper part of the case (closed from the outside with a lid). It is into this cavity (compartment) that the ball will roll if a force is applied to it from the side of a fluid flow moving in the right direction (indicated by an arrow on the body). For this purpose, two inclined protrusions-guides are made on the inner walls of the housing.

How it works? Let's look at the diagram:

Everything is very simple. In a calm state, the ball rolls down to the saddle under the influence of gravity. In this regard, such a valve is allowed to be installed only on a horizontal section of the sewer pipeline, with the inspection window (sloping compartment) facing upwards only. You cannot install it on a vertical sewer riser, since in this case it will work only when liquid moves from bottom to top, that is, on a pressure pipe, which in our case is not a sewer.

If the flow goes in the right direction, then the fluid pressure is enough to overcome the gravity vector of the ball and roll it higher along the guides, thereby freeing the passage. The greater the flow pressure, the higher the ball will move, which means the more the valve will open.

But if for some reason the flow changes direction, then, firstly, the ball will immediately roll back to the saddle. And secondly, the pressure will also press the ball tightly against the seat, thereby increasing the tightness of the closed position of the valve.

Ball valves are quite convenient and reliable. The wear of the ball, of course, is gradually progressing - signs of leakage may appear when the water flows back. However, this part is replaceable, and removing the old ball and installing a new one is not difficult. It is enough to unscrew the fastenings of the inspection cover to gain access to the valve mechanism. After cleaning the cavity, the ball is returned to its place (or replaced with a new one), the lid is placed and screwed on. And that’s it - the valve has regained full functionality.

And yet, such devices are not found so often in household sewer systems; they are less common than rotary ones. Although, in the author’s personal opinion, it is not entirely deserved.

* * * * * * *

In various sources of information you can find references to poppet-type valves, similar to those that are widely used on water pipes. Or about double-leaf ones, with two symmetrical 0-petal dampers located on the central axis and opening from the periphery to the center (a very common valve design on air ducts of ventilation systems).

However, it hardly makes sense to talk seriously about the applicability of such devices on sewer lines. Even a quick glance at the diagrams shown should be enough to understand how serious obstacles such valve mechanisms become for those contaminants that are characteristic of domestic sewage. That is, in these places, dense blockages will certainly form very quickly and frighteningly often, requiring the intervention of the owners. And this, mind you, is with a completely serviceable sewer system and the correct direction of movement of wastewater. Just imagine how convenient such a system will be to use.

Let us repeat once again - in the autonomous sewerage systems of a private house or in areas of the internal home (apartment) wiring of general wastewater collection systems, simple and fairly reliable rotary valves with a movable flap hinged at the top are most often stopped. An option with a ball locking device is possible. It’s better not to even consider all the rest on the indicated scale.

When is it necessary to install a sewer return valve? Which to choose?

In what cases is it necessary to do without a check valve?

It must be said that the check valve is still not considered as a mandatory sewerage element for installation. Many systems can do just fine without it. However, in a number of cases, the installation of such a device, if not considered a categorical requirement, is considered a strong recommendation - in full.

1. This applies to apartments on the first floors of city high-rise buildings. By and large, residents of the second floor will sleep more peacefully if their entrance to the riser is protected by a check valve. The explanation is simple - on the first floor lives a zealous owner who protected his possessions. That is, the nearest point for the release of sewage when clogged moves higher.

They are usually not installed above the first floor, since the high-height water column created in the riser itself should already “push through” any theoretically possible blockage in the horizontal basement section of the sewer system.

Although, “history” knows cases when blockages formed on common risers above the level of the first and second floors. This can be facilitated, by the way, by check valves that are completely unnecessary in these vertical “main” sections. It should be correctly understood that any valve, even a completely open one, becomes an unnecessary obstacle to a variety of debris and dirt carried by drains. That is, a potential threat of blockage.

If the owners of apartments above 1 ÷ 2 floors are not confident in the correct installation of the common building system and the careful operation of the sewer system by their neighbors on the riser, then nothing prevents them from installing check valves at the junction points of the apartment interchange to the common network. Yes, these are additional expenses, but sometimes they are justified.

2. Almost the same can be said about the owners or tenants of retail, office or other premises in semi-basements, cellars, on the first and second floors of residential buildings. It is better to immediately protect your possessions (even if temporary) than to subsequently pay for repairs, and even against the backdrop of forced downtime of the enterprise (company).

3. Even if a private house is connected to a central sewer, or is equipped with high-performance and carefully calculated local treatment facilities with sufficient operating reserves, the owners still should not be complacent. Different situations happen, sometimes even such that they seem completely incredible even in theory. So it is better to supplement your system with check valves in order to be sure to insure against flooding with sewage.

At the same time, if possible, it is better to take this locking mechanism outside the house - to an external section of the route, providing a separate inspection well for it. Naturally, with such an arrangement, the depth of soil freezing in the region must be taken into account, and issues of thermal insulation in areas of pipe laying vulnerable to low temperatures must be thought through.

Prices for sewer pipes

sewer pipes

An end-type check valve installed at the outlet of a pipe.

As already mentioned, there are also special models of check valves that are installed not at the break in the sewer pipe, but at its end. For example, when draining sewage collected in a house into a drop-off well or collector.

By the way, any of the mentioned types of valves in the sewer system of a private house also becomes a barrier against the penetration of rats and other unwanted living creatures.

We need to add one more nuance. Of course, this is a very great success if, by installing one high-quality valve, you can immediately protect your entire internal distribution of the return flow of sewage from the outside. But sometimes this is impossible to do due to various circumstances. And then it is necessary to equip each of the pipes approaching the riser with its own valve of the appropriate diameter. For example, one large valve on the toilet outlet, one 50 mm on the pipe coming from the bathtub, washbasin, shower stall. And another one - on the pipe coming from the kitchen.

This way, by the way, is much more reliable. The theoretically possible negative mutual influence of various plumbing fixtures in the event of a general or some local blockage is excluded. Often, in problem systems, a valve is installed on every plumbing fixture. In addition, you can purchase special siphons for sinks and sinks - with a built-in ball or petal check valve. Or special valves for installation on the drain of household appliances connected to the water supply and sewerage systems (washing machines or dishwashers).

How to choose a check valve?

The assortment of specialized plumbing stores offers many models of check valves. But basically you can notice that many of them are analogues, differing only slightly in individual details.

What criteria should be assessed when choosing a valve?

• First of all, of course, is the diameter. The vast majority of valves for domestic sewerage are equipped with a socket connection. And it is designed for installation in pipes with a diameter of 50 or 110 mm (less often - 160 mm).

The valve is designed for installation in a pipe of a specific diameter only. That is, installation using some kind of adapters to change to a different diameter is not recommended.

• Valve material. For the most part, plastic models are presented (polypropylene, ABS, PVC). And since plastic sewer pipes also prevail in modern construction, the choice is obvious.

If there are still old cast iron pipes in the house (apartment), and there is no desire or opportunity to change them, then you can purchase the corresponding model for them. Although, most plumbers will still prefer to either replace the old wiring, or embed a polymer valve into cast iron - there are special adapter sleeves for sale for this purpose.

Quality valve blades are often made from stainless steel.

• By the way, many savvy readers have probably already realized that manufacturers have tried to maintain color markings for products similar to those used on pipes. That is, gray color is exclusively for wiring located inside the building, orange is universal, which can also be installed on external sewer networks. The material used to make “red” devices has increased strength, resistance to temperature changes, etc. Quite often, acceptable operating conditions are indicated in the technical documentation of the product.
• The functionality of the device must be assessed. The valve parameters should specify whether it is designed to only pass water, or whether it can also handle fecal waste. This is very important, since some models are similar, you can make a mistake and soon end up with an inoperable system.
• You should evaluate the dimensions of the device - compare them with the place where it is planned to be installed.
• Most often, they try to place valves on horizontal sections of sewer pipes. However, lack of space or other circumstances may force you to resort to vertical installation. This means that the valve must be designed specifically for vertical installation - not all models support such a spatial orientation.

• In the valve data sheet you can find the value of the maximum permissible backflow pressure, for example, from 0 to 5 meters of water column. That is, if this parameter is exceeded, the manufacturer does not guarantee that the valve will not be deformed or torn off. But, to be honest, imagining a pressure equivalent to a five-meter column of water from a collector, septic tank or well (taking into account that a priori there cannot be any equipment capable of creating forced pressure) is not enough for any imagination.

So you can reassure yourself that all high-quality valves for home sewage are designed for any theoretically possible back pressure.

• When purchasing a valve, it is best to opt for models equipped with the ability to forcefully close the valve. There are situations when you have to urgently resort to this function. But, in principle, most models are equipped with it, as they say, “by default.”

• Models from both domestic and foreign manufacturers are on sale. By the way, this is the case when there is no obvious predominance of the quality of imported products. Here, quickly, it is better to proceed from considerations whether the manufacturer provides a guarantee for its products, and if so, what kind. And do not forget to draw up warranty documents upon purchase.

Well, if the product is not accompanied by any documentation at all, it makes sense to think about whether it is worth getting involved with such a “gift”, despite the very attractive price, and whether it will fail in a critical situation.

Brief overview of check valve models for sewerage

Naturally, since we are talking about domestic sewerage, we will limit ourselves to models with diameters of 50 and 110 mm.

Illustration	Brief description of the model	approximate cost
	"Capricorn" 50 mm, production – Poland. For internal wiring only. Drains without feces. Polypropylene. Manual shutter is provided.	950 rub.
	Check valves for individual plumbing fixtures. Production - "Mc Alpine"(Scotland). Diameters – from 32 to 50 mm. Threaded coupling connection with conical gaskets. Material – PVC. Horizontal and vertical installation is allowed. Drains without feces.	Depending on the diameter - from 500 to 900 rubles.
	Check valve for 50 mm pipe TP-86.50, domestic production. For internal distribution, drains without feces. Polypropylene. Horizontal installation only. Reverse flow pressure is up to 3 meters of water column. Operating temperatures – from +1 to +35 ℃. The declared service life is up to 50 years. Manufacturer's warranty – 12 months.	450 rub.
	Check valve TP-85.100, also domestically produced. Diameter – 110 mm. For external and internal wiring on horizontal pipe sections. Including for pipes with fecal wastewater. Other characteristics are similar to the TP-86.50 valve.	1000 rub.
	Check valve F110 PESTAN(made in Serbia). ABS plastic + polypropylene. Stainless steel damper. Diameter – 110 mm. For external and internal wiring, horizontal position only. Working with fecal wastewater. Manufacturer's warranty – 15 years!	1450 rub.
	Check valve for sewer pipe 110 mm "Ostendorf 908002". Any types of drains, indoor and outdoor installation, horizontal orientation only. Polypropylene. The maximum back pressure is 5 meters of water column. Maximum temperature: +95℃. Manufacturer's warranty – 1 year.	1720 rub.

The list included popular models of good quality with reasonable prices. There are, of course, more sophisticated valves, with several valves, sensors and remote control of the valves. The cost of such models, of course, can be many times higher. But the need for such devices does not always arise and not for everyone. So there doesn’t seem to be much point in dwelling on them.

Installing a check valve on a sewer pipe

Installing such devices, if it is already completely clear where they will be installed, is not particularly difficult. And especially in cases where the valve is installed during the installation of the entire sewer system, for example, during construction or major repairs.

Anyone who already has experience in assembling sewer pipes in their practice should be able to cope with this task. It’s a different matter if you have to learn everything on the go. In such a situation, it is better not to train on the valve - start with something simpler. That is, it would be wiser to invite a specialist.

Almost all valves are equipped with a flare at the inlet and a straight section of pipe at the outlet - for the familiar flare connection. That is, there should be no problems with this under normal installation conditions. The task becomes more complicated if the valve has to be cut into an already laid section of pipe. And at the same time, it is impossible to somehow temporarily shift some edge. For example, the toilet is built in, the riser is also motionless, but a socket connection still requires a certain freedom of translational movement of the joined parts.

There is a way out - use either a compensation pipe with an extended bell section, or a coupling equipped with cuffs on both sides.

Such pipes and couplings are available for both 50 mm and 110 mm pipes.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• A section of pipe is cut out at the site of the planned installation. In such a way as to free the socket for inserting a straight section of the valve pipe. And on the other hand, to put on the compensation pipe by inserting it into the valve socket.
• The cut section is removed from the socket of the pipe going further along the route - it will no longer be needed. The remaining cut edge is carefully cleaned of burrs, and a neat chamfer is removed along the end.

• The connection areas can be lubricated with silicone grease to reduce friction during installation. If it is not there, then a thick soap solution will do.
• An expansion pipe is placed on the cut edge of the pipe and pushed down to the full depth of its elongated socket.
• The valve is inserted in a straight section into the socket, which remains on one side of the area prepared for installation. It sinks to the end of the bell.
• Then the compensation pipe is moved back so that its straight section fits completely into the valve socket.
• Since with such installation the parts retain a certain degree of freedom, and the forces during backpressure are still considerable, so that displacement does not occur during operation, it would be better to additionally cover the connecting nodes with metal clamps.

If there is no socket in the section of the pipe where installation of the valve is required, then a coupling is used. After trimming and cleaning the edges, it is put on the edge that is closer to the exit and moves, opening the place for the joint. After this, the valve is put on with its socket on the opposite end of the cut pipe with subsidence until it stops. Then the valve is aligned coaxially with the route, and the previously put on coupling is shifted onto its straight part, which will completely close the joint. Here, too, it is advisable not to be too lazy to strengthen the knot with metal clamps.

• The installation location of the device should be chosen in such a way that it provides access for regular maintenance. Any valve is an extra hydraulic obstacle where blockages can form. It’s no wonder that there are covers for quick access when you need to quickly clean them. By the way, a clogged valve with a poorly fitting valve may not help if a backflow of sewage occurs!

• Before installing the valve, it never hurts to check it for leaks - how it restrains the reverse flow of water. It is easy to check this by simply pouring water into the valve from the outlet side - it should operate.
• Immediately before installation, make sure that the arrow indicating the direction of water flow is positioned correctly.

• Do not forget to assemble the check valve itself before installation and start-up. Many models go on sale disassembled - they are accompanied by the manufacturer's instructions for assembly. Usually the assembly itself is not difficult. The main thing is not to forget about it. There are cases where an inexperienced installer got a problem simply because of a loose inspection cover or an incorrectly installed damper.

Well, for the rest, all that remains is to periodically monitor the condition of the valve, carry out cleaning if necessary, and check the tight fit of the valve to the seat. By the way, for some models you can purchase sensors that will alert the owners that a problem has arisen that requires their intervention.

* * * * * * *

At the end of the publication, watch the video, in which, perhaps, the remaining unclear points will be clarified.

Video: Check valve for sewerage - purpose and principle of the device

One of the unpleasant features of the drainage system is the presence of unpleasant odors in it. A sewer air check valve is a great way to solve this problem.

What it is

An air valve or aerator is a device designed to maintain a certain pressure in the sewer and remove unpleasant odors, generated gases, etc. from it. Many homeowners use a ventilation outlet for such purposes, but it does not solve the problem of pressure drops, due to which may disrupt the operation of the entire drainage system.

The air valve is an example of a classic non-return diaphragm device. Thanks to the presence of a flexible partition, it prevents sewer odors from penetrating into the room or outdoor environment.

According to application, there are the following types of valves:

1. Membrane;
2. Cylindrical;
3. Lever.

Membrane ones are made from PVC. Most often, they are installed at the entrance of a waste pipe, which is connected to the sewer system as ventilation. When pressure changes, the membrane changes its position. Due to this, gases cannot leak through the valve back into the sewer. It should be noted that such an aerator will only work if there is oxygen access to the drain pipe.

Cylindrical ones are made of steel or its alloys. They are a design that visually resembles a shut-off valve. They consist of a metal body with a thread and a cover of standard diameter. Often this is 110 mm, but there are also more exotic models. The lid is installed on the base; when direct pressure is applied, it opens, allowing water, waste, etc., to pass through, after which it returns to its original position. Due to the fact that it opens inward, the likelihood of a “return” of waste is extremely low. This is the optimal solution for ensuring sewerage protection in a private home.

Video: using a non-return air valve for sewerage

The lever version is often used in unventilated sewers. It consists of a metal body and a movable lever. The device is configured manually. The drains move in the direction preset by the arrow. This is convenient for urgent repairs.

In addition, vacuum and automatic valves are now produced. They differ in the ability to customize the workflow. The vacuum works without presets - it opens the way for wastewater in one specific direction. Automatic can change it depending on needs.

According to the type of locking mechanism, valves are:

Installation

You can easily install a 50 or 110 mm air valve for sewage with your own hands. Experts recommend using ball models for household purposes, because... They are the easiest to install, maintain and clean.

Installation rules:

1. The highest drain point should be at the minimum permissible height - 100 mm;
2. A special case is a sewage system installed in the floor. Then the valve must be installed at least 350 mm from the floor. This is necessary not only to ensure efficient operation of the device, but also to extend its service life;
3. All valves are very sensitive to temperature changes. For their durability and reliability, it is necessary to ensure the average temperature of the room in which they are installed is 20 degrees;
4. For private buildings, apartments and utility rooms, if there is a valve, there is no need to connect ventilation to the sewer;
5. If the installation scheme of aerators implies that several valves will be installed, then the distance between them should not be less than 1 meter.

Step-by-step instructions on how to install air valves for a sewage system:

1. Depending on the type of installation, a pipe is prepared. It must be trimmed and cleared of nicks on the end surfaces. A fitting is inserted into the plastic outlet;
2. First you need to install a rubber gasket in the socket. This seal will ensure tight installation. After this, the valve is installed. It should be noted that if you need to make a threaded installation, then you can do without a gasket. It is more advisable to use sanitary film instead;
3. One apartment requires at least 3 air shut-off valves for internal sewerage. One for each consumer.

Each aerator must be easily accessible for inspection and necessary repairs. Cleaning is recommended every year of operation.

Price overview

You can buy air valves for sewerage at a plumbing supply store (for example, Interma, TechnoStok), the price depends on the type of device. There are also official representative offices of well-known manufacturing companies in Moscow and other large cities.

Let's consider the cost of various aerators from well-known manufacturers.

A fairly new problem in the operation of sewer systems is the overflow of sewage. In most cases, such unpleasant moments happen to residents of the lower floors of multi-story buildings. Such “joy” can unpleasantly surprise literally instantly and cause considerable damage. Even if it is possible to avoid damage to furniture, then the need for repairs is an inevitable process. However, such situations also happen to owners of mansions (although much less frequently).

Of course, such a disaster does not happen in every apartment, however, if your neighbors are planning a renovation and start pouring the remaining solutions into the sewer, expect unpleasant news. Similar consequences can be caused rags or plastic bags getting into the riser. The same phenomenon often occurs in old houses, but due to the banal wear and tear of the sewer system.

One way or another, the residents of the first two floors suffer. As a rule, the water column does not rise above the second one. However, if such a disaster occurs, it will take at least a long time to wait for the emergency team to arrive (which, to put it mildly, will not happen quickly) and for the happy moment when they discover and eliminate the cause of the blockage. During this time, with a high probability, the apartment may be completely flooded. Agree – it’s unpleasant. And don't forget that we are not talking about water.

The problem is in the waste systems

Most often, such incidents are associated with the entry of large objects into wastewater systems. This is usually only partly correct. Such things, in most cases, are only start the process of complete blockage of the sewer system and subsequent overflow of foul-smelling liquid.

The bottom line is that the entry of such objects into the sewer only reduces the rate of sewage flow, which, in turn, contributes to the settling of solid wastewater particles. These are the ones that lead to complete clogging of the sewage system.

In approximately the same way, improperly installed systems become clogged. Violation of the slope angle of sewer pipes also leads to to a decrease in the rate of water outflow and increases the likelihood of clogging. By the way, an incorrect angle does not necessarily indicate poor installation. Often the angle changes due to the weight of the system over time. Something similar happens when horizontal sewer pipes are connected at right angles, which sharply reduces the outflow.

Don’t forget about the service life of the system. Over time, not only sewage, but also salts, which are present in excess in the water, are deposited on the walls of the pipes. This leads to a gradual reduction in the working cross-section of the pipe and, as a result, to the above-mentioned special effects.

As for the residents of mansions, in addition to the banal clogging of the sewage system, a flood can also lead to groundwater rise. The phenomenon itself is not very common, but it can also cause sewer overflow with all the negative consequences.

Another, no less unpleasant, moment is the penetration of rats and unpleasant odors into the apartment at the time of draining. Both can be eliminated with the help of check valves.

What do you need to buy?

In order to protect yourself and your home from such odorous “geysers”, it is worth using a check valve. Depending on the diameter of the sewage system, manufacturers offer two main modifications of check valves for sewage:

• check valve for sewerage 50 mm;
• check valve for sewerage 110 mm;
• air valve.

Companies specializing in the production and sale of these types of products, as a rule, offer them in plastic and metal versions. There are, of course, many more of the former. If we systematize the proposed options for such valves, it is worth highlighting the following varieties:

• metal valves;
• plastic products.

They, in turn, are divided into the following subspecies:

• valves for vertical installation;
• devices for horizontal use.

Separately, it is worth noting that there are sewer check valves of universal orientation.

Previously, metal valves were widely used. However today, when PVC pipelines have become more common, their plastic modifications prevail. When installing a plastic check valve in a cast iron pipeline, you will have to additionally install plastic adapters.

Nuances of installation work

Such a unit is installed in a pipe rupture. The easiest way to perform this work is during the installation of the sewer system. However, in It is also possible to insert into an existing pipeline, but at the same time, the diameters of the inlet and outlet pipes must match. Otherwise you will have to use adapters.

In most cases, the valve has a shutter that allows you to manually shut off the sewer. This can be useful in case of accidents or carrying out routine maintenance on the valve (cleaning, replacing the seal gasket).

There is an arrow on the unit body indicating the direction of wastewater flow. When installed, it should face towards the riser.

It is important to know

Before you begin installing such devices, you should think about the installation location and provide free access to the valve (whether it is air or any other). Structurally, it is designed in such a way that it is possible to carry out its repair and cleaning (it is made dismountable).

Another important question is number of valves. Depending on the structure of the existing system, it is possible to install both several valves for each drain point, and one at the outlet to the main line.

The last option, in most cases, is applicable to mansions and small apartment buildings. The first, more often used, is more suitable for high-rise, multi-apartment buildings.

Check valve for sewerage 50 mm made in the form of a sphere with a movable membrane. When draining water, it opens and does not interfere with the flow of wastewater into the main pipeline. But, if a reverse current occurs, it is supported by pressure and eliminates the possibility of flooding your home with sewage.

When selecting such a valve, it is worth pay attention to its quality, not the price. Remember that if the apartment is flooded with sewage (which happens quite quickly), the damage caused will be significantly higher than the cost of the device. Do not forget about common sense - apartment renovation will cost immeasurably more than a high-quality device.

Well, the last nuance related to the high-quality execution of the waste system

When draining sewage, a vacuum of air is formed in the pipeline. Typically, this process is accompanied by the suction of air from the system. In this case, when the water drains into air is drawn in through the fence with the smallest volume of water seal, which, in turn, is accompanied by a rather loud, squelching sound and rather unpleasant odors entering the apartment.

To avoid this, air valves are used. Their main functions:

• equalizing pressure in the pipeline when a vacuum occurs;
• ventilation of the sewer system and blocking of excess gases formed in the sewer system.

The operation of air valves for sewerage is quite simple. When a vacuum occurs with a force above five mm of water column, the valve opens and allows air into the pipeline. When the pressure in the riser is greater than or equal to atmospheric pressure, the air valve remains closed and prevents gases from entering the living space.

It is worth mentioning that such valves can only be installed in rooms with a constantly positive temperature. Otherwise, it will not be able to work normally.

Installing a 110 mm sewer check valve is not something very complicated. You can easily carry out the installation yourself. Of course, after reading the installation instructions for a specific product. You can seek the help of specialists in the field of laying sewage systems. Regardless of who does the work, you will receive a properly functioning sewer system that will protect you from unpleasant surprises and unexpected financial costs.