Design of the blind area. Blind area around the house: types and installation methods

Even the strongest foundation is eventually exposed to moisture, which gradually reduces the load on the drainage system of the house, as well as on vertical waterproofing. To prevent this from happening, make a concrete blind area with your own hands, step-by-step instruction which will be discussed in the article.

Concrete blind area is a necessary covering to protect the foundation

In addition to its main function (protection from interaction with moisture), this coating also allows you to create a pedestrian zone around the perimeter of the house and give the architectural appearance of the building a complete look.

However, before you fill the blind area, you need to pay attention to its design features and requirements for construction projects of this type.

Design of the blind area

The concrete blind area has a fairly simple design, the preparation of which will require the following materials:

Bedding (pillow). This is done before pouring the solution. The most suitable materials are used as bedding different materials: coarse or medium sand, sand-gravel mixture, crushed stone, fine gravel. The foundation area cannot be laid on fine sand due to the possibility of shrinkage, since in this case there is a risk that the base will crack. It is best to prepare a two-layer cushion: first lay gravel or crushed stone, which will compact the soil, and then sand.
Reinforcement. Availability reinforcing mesh For concrete blind area will give the structure more strength. The cell size of this product is usually 30 x 30 or 50 x 50 cm. The mesh diameter should be about 6-8 mm, but it all depends on the type of soil.
Formwork. Wooden guides located along the perimeter of the coating are required, as they will prevent the concrete mixture from spreading. The width of the formwork boards is usually 20-25 mm.
Concrete solution. The blind area is poured using a specific concrete mixture composition.

The brand of mortar must be carefully selected, since the strength and durability of the entire structure will depend on its quality and characteristics. For such a coating, Mixture M 200 is usually used, the strength class of which is no less than B 15 (a higher grade can be purchased). It is also worth paying attention to the frost resistance of the composition, which should not be less than F 50. To ensure better resistance to changes temperature conditions, it is recommended to give preference to formulations with an F index of 100.

To obtain high-quality coating, it is most profitable to produce concrete mixture on your own.

Making a concrete mixture for the blind area of a house

To organize a concrete blind area around the house it is not necessary to buy ready mixture and order expensive delivery by concrete mixer. Knowing the proportions of the components, you can make M 200 concrete yourself, for this you will need:

1 part cement (the optimal one is Portland cement 400);
3 parts sand (preferably medium, but fine-grained will do);
4 parts of coarse aggregate (gravel or crushed stone);
½ part water.

Accordingly, to get 1 cubic meter of concrete you need to mix:

280 kg of cement;
1100 kg of crushed stone;
800 kg of sand;
190 liters of water.

Also using PC 400, you can get other brands.

Healthy! First of all, cement and water are mixed, and only after the composition is homogeneous, sand and gravel are added to it.

To ensure that the design of the blind area is strong and the concreting is durable, there are certain rules and requirements.

Design requirements

To fill the blind area of a house with concrete, you need to familiarize yourself with the regulations and recommendations of SNiP:

The width of the blind area should be 20 cm greater than the roof overhang (SNiP 2.02.01-83). If the structure has a drainage system, then its indicators are also taken into account. The optimal value is 1 meter. In this case, you can lay a tile path around the house.
The length of the blind area around the house, made with your own hands, must correspond to the perimeter of the building. However, if you plan to install concrete porch, then a “gap” is allowed.
Depth. The depth of the “tape” is half the calculated freezing depth of the ground.
The thickness of the concrete blind area is also regulated by SNiP and, according to these requirements, should be at least 7-10 cm for the top layer. However, many people make concrete parking spaces for personal cars along with the blind area. In this case, the operational load increases, and the thickness of the concrete blind area can reach up to 15 cm.

Slope. According to SNiP III-10-75, the slope should be from 1 to 10 cm for each meter of width. Most often it is 2-3 cm per meter - this is approximately 2-3 degrees. The angle of inclination must be directed in the direction opposite to the foundation. It is not recommended to increase the slope, as in this case it will be difficult to walk on such a path. winter time when ice forms on the surface.
Border. The installation of a blind area for a house does not include the mandatory production of a border, so in this case the decision is made by the owners of country property. However, experts recommend installing such “limiters” if trees and shrubs with an “aggressive” root system (blackberries, raspberries, plane trees, poplars and others) grow near the foundation.
Base height. For a hard type covering (concrete), the base must be at least 50 cm.
The recommended height of the blind area above ground level is 5 cm or more.

There are also several schemes according to which a blind area can be built from crushed stone, in the form of a monolithic concrete covering, both for the usual type of soil and for “problematic” ones.

Knowing the SNiP requirements and features suburban area, you can make a blind area with your own hands using the step-by-step instructions given below.

We make the blind area ourselves

The technology for constructing a blind area includes several stages that even a beginner in construction work can handle.

Preparation

To begin creating a protective coating around your home, prepare:

pickaxe;
twine;
roulette;
tamper;
pegs for marking;
waterproof film (geotextile);
concrete mixture;
boards for formwork;
hacksaw;
level;
nails;
reinforcement material, welding machine and wire cutters;
usually a trowel, spatula;
sealant for processing seams (it is better to purchase a polyurethane compound).

Marking

Arrangement of the blind area around the house begins with preparing the area for construction. At this stage, it is necessary to mark the perimeter of the future “tape”, or rather the trench for it, using pegs. There are several recommendations in this regard:

The step between the beacons is 1.5 m.
The depth of the trench will depend on the soil, but the minimum value is 0.15-0.2 meters. If the ground is “heaving”, then the depth increases to 0.3 m.

The easiest way to apply markings is to proceed in the following sequence:

Drive metal or wood pegs into the ground at the corners of the house.
Install intermediate beacons along the perimeter of the building.
Stretch the cord or rope, connecting all the pegs.

Healthy! At this point, a sealant can be used to separate the sheeting from the foundation.

After this, the slope of the system is formed; for this, a trench is dug in which the depth of one of its sides will be greater. To compact the resulting ditch, it is enough to use wood. First, you need to place the log vertically, lift it and sharply lower it down with force. This will compact the bottom of the trench.

Formwork

For formwork you will need boards on which it is better to immediately mark the height of the future cushion. Attach the improvised “box” in the corners metal corners(with bolts from the outside).

Important! If you do not want to remove the formwork after the construction of the concrete blind area is completed, then be sure to treat the wood with an antiseptic compound and wrap the boards with roofing felt.

Making a pillow

In order for a concrete blind area to be made according to all the “canons” of construction, it is imperative to prepare a sand or clay base for it. The thickness of the sand layer can reach up to 20 cm. It is best to lay the pillow in several layers, moistening and thoroughly tamping each subsequent layer. On final stage the surface needs to be leveled.

Waterproofing

The waterproofing device involves laying several layers of roofing material or other geotextiles on the pillow.

The material needs to be “wrapped” slightly onto the walls to create an expansion joint.
Roofing felt must be laid overlapping.
Placed on top of geotextile thin layer sand and then 10 cm of gravel.
If you plan to install drainage system, then it is laid close to the resulting “hydraulic seal”.

Reinforcement, pouring and drying

Above the level of 3 cm from the crushed stone layer it is necessary to lay metal mesh in increments of 0.75 m. After this, you need to mix the concrete and pour it in equal portions into the resulting formwork sections. In this case, the poured composition should reach the level of the upper edge of the wooden “box”.

Healthy! After pouring, pierce the surface with an iron rod in several places to allow excess air to escape.

The composition can be distributed using a trowel or a rule. To increase the resistance of concrete, 2 hours after pouring, ironing is performed. To do this, the surface is covered with a layer of dry PC 400 3-7 mm thick.

Healthy! To prevent the composition from cracking, it must be moistened with water 1-2 times a day.

In addition to how to properly fill the blind area, you need to take care that it does not crack during the drying process. To do this, you need to protect the coating from precipitation and sun using plastic film. It is believed that the blind area dries completely in 10-14 days. However, according to the regulations, at least 28 days should be allowed for drying.

Why are blind areas needed?

Note that pile and screw foundations do not need blind areas. In this case, you only need to install protective coatings in places where water drains from the roof. Other types of foundation require the organization of blind areas, which perform a number of important functions:

Drain rain and melt water from the walls and foundation of the house;
Prevents the appearance of mold, mildew and rot;
Prevents the foundation from subsiding too much and protects against cracks and splits;
Minimize the risk of flooding in the basement, underground or ground floor;
Reduce soil freezing under the building and increase thermal insulation;
Preserve the original appearance of the house;
Increase the service life of the foundation and the structure as a whole;
They complete the facade of the house, making the building complete and attractive.

Making a blind area around the house with your own hands is not difficult. The process begins after construction is completed. If you have not yet chosen a project for a country cottage or dacha, there are many interesting options you will find in the “MariSrub” catalogue. And in the article we will look at how to properly make and fill a blind area around the house.

Design specifics

The blind area is made according to certain dimensions. The main role is played by the width and angle of inclination. To determine the minimum width for a house, add 30 centimeters to the roof overhang. But in any case, the width of the blind area around the house should not be less than 60 centimeters. One meter is considered a suitable size. The wider the blind area, the more functional it is.

The slope of the structure is made away from the house; due to this slope, water drains and leaves the walls of the building. The most suitable tilt angle is 3-10 degrees, but in some cases 1.5-2 is sufficient. The markings are made not from the edge of the roof, but from the walls. The seams between the building and the blind area are additionally filled with sand. For pouring, choose only high-quality reliable concrete of at least grade M 250; in rare cases, you can use M 200.

For the manufacture of blind areas, various materials are chosen. Today, the market offers a wide selection of concrete and stone pavers, which vary in color, shape, size and design. Stone materials look natural and aesthetically pleasing, but are more difficult to install. Suitable thickness the paving area is 5-6 meters.

It is advantageous to choose paving slabs, as they are suitable for repair. If necessary, you can quickly and easily replace damaged tiles. You can see the square and rectangular tiles different textures and colors.

The most economical and fastest option is to use concrete and/or crushed stone. The thickness of the concrete blind area is 7-10 centimeters, of crushed stone - at least ten. Instead of crushed stone, you can use expanded clay, gravel or pebbles. The result is a strong and reliable blind area, which is closed from above decorative tiles, stones or leave rubble. We will consider the manufacture of a concrete blind area, since such a structure can be made independently without professional training.

How to make a blind area correctly: step-by-step instructions

Prepare and compact the ground where the blind area is planned;
Mark the future structure using pegs placed in the corners of the house, rope or boundary boards;
Dig a hole 20-25 centimeters down;
Install formwork along the outer perimeter of the trench. Formwork is made of boards, wooden blocks or slats, which are installed vertically and fixed;
Pour sand in a layer five to ten centimeters high. Then pour the sand generously with water and compact it;
Pour a layer of gravel or crushed stone on top and level it;
After preparing the sand cushion and gravel layer, a compensating (deformation and temperature) seam is made, i.e. between the blind area and the walls/basement of the building, a layer of sand (gravel) is poured or roofing felt is laid solidly or every two meters;
Then the concrete mixture is poured into the formwork. For self-made solution, take sand, crushed stone and cement in a parts ratio of 3:5:1. Add water to the composition in a volume of 60% of the taken cement and mix the mixture thoroughly;
Concrete is poured carefully and gradually in several layers, taking into account the slope in an approximate ratio of 15 mm per meter of width;
Cover the poured surface plastic film and leave until completely dry; in dry and hot weather, water the surface with cool water;
Subsequently, the joints between the house and the blind area are filled with sealant;
You can leave the concrete surface in this form or give it an aesthetic appearance. appearance using tiles, bricks or paving stones, install a border. But if the design is done correctly, there is no need for a curb.

Final work

The appearance of cracks and crevices is the main problem of blind areas that arises during operation. This occurs due to frost, temperature changes and soil subsidence. To reduce the number of defects, additional insulation, expansion joints and installation of a drainage system with gutters (storm drainage) are used.

If you want to insulate the structure, add expanded clay to the concrete solution during mixing. Insulation reduces soil freezing, which will reduce the number of cracks that appear during operation. In addition, for additional insulation concrete is poured in two layers, between which a special insulation is laid.

To make an expansion joint, the gap between the foundation walls and the structure is covered with gravel or sand, filled with mastic, or two or three layers of roofing material are laid. This layer will preserve the blind area during soil subsidence and prevent cracking and splitting.

If cracks do form, a liquid cement solution will help eliminate the defect. To repair, you need to cut out the splits completely and clean them of dirt, then pour a cement composition inside. Fill the hole with mastic and pour sand on top. Large and deep cracks or splits are filled with fresh concrete.

Storm drain

In order for blind areas to be as effective as possible, you need to install a storm sewer or drainage system on summer cottage. A suitable option would be an open or linear design, which involves the placement of gutters along the surface of the site. Water from roofs, decks, sidewalks and walkways flows through pipes into these gutters and is then sent to a reservoir or sewer system. The gutters are covered with gratings to protect from debris and provide an aesthetic appearance.

An open storm drain is easy to install and use and covers a large area, which is why many summer residents and owners of suburban areas choose this type of drainage system. A more complex, but also more aesthetic option is a closed or point storm design. In this case, gutters and channels are installed underground. Such a system should be developed at the design stage country house. There is also a mixed type of storm drainage, which includes both surface and underground gutters.

If installed incorrectly storm system, pouring blind areas or using low-quality materials, the structure will be ineffective and will not last even five years. Trust the work to experts and professionals! The builders of “MariSrub” will select durable quality materials, calculate correctly, reliably and in short time They will make a blind area, install gutters and a drainage system. We build quality wooden houses from timber and logs on a turnkey basis or for shrinkage inexpensively!

Reading time ≈ 8 minutes

To protect the foundation from the destructive effects of precipitation, a concrete blind area is used around the house. Such work can be trusted professional builders or do them yourself if you have the appropriate skills.

Purpose of the blind area

The main purpose of the blind area is to protect the house, or rather, its foundation. Not everyone understands what needs to be protected from a home. In fact, any structure may not withstand some natural “surprises”.

Let's consider what dangers may await owners of private houses. First of all, it is important to understand what type of soil the house is built on. Basically, soil is divided into two main types:

not heaving;
heaving.

You shouldn’t expect a catch from the non-fuzzy option.

But heaving soil is subject to frost heaving. Taking into account such soil characteristics, a suitable type of foundation is determined. It happens:

shallow;
recessed

If you ignore all the recommendations, water flows arising from heavy rainfall and melting snow will be actively absorbed by the soil and then erode the foundation of the house. Of course, such Negative consequences do not pass without a trace. The foundation collapses, and behind it cracks appear on the walls. All this leads to the need for urgent repairs.

Things are completely different when the blind area is already done. An inclined plane directs water flows in the opposite direction from the foundation.

If a site with moisture-saturated soil is chosen for building a house, a drainage system or storm sewer must be built to drain the water.

Attention is also paid to the roof structure, namely the overhangs. They should be approximately 25 cm away from the walls. However, even all this is not enough to protect the building from negative impact atmospheric precipitation.

Rainwater, under the influence of the wind, still falls on the walls, flows off them and concentrates at the base of the house. And in these cases, it will no longer be possible to do without blind areas.

However, the blind area was not limited to the protective characteristics. This additional design It also serves as an excellent insulator, preventing the foundation, basement and ground floor from freezing.

Blind areas also help increase the architectural attractiveness of the house. When creating a landscape project, some designers always pay attention to blind areas, considering them one of the most important elements with which they can significantly improve the landscape aesthetics of the site.

Tools and materials

To build a high-quality blind area, of course, you need to follow the proposed step-by-step instructions. It will guide you in what order certain actions need to be performed. However, the final result depends not only on how correctly the work is carried out.

In many ways, the effectiveness of the design will depend on what quality characteristics the materials will be accompanied, and whether it will be possible to prepare a concrete solution of the required strength class.

In addition, you can carry out construction work yourself, but only if you have the appropriate construction tools. For this reason, before starting work, you need to purchase all necessary tools or borrow it from friends.

Concrete mortar can be ordered from a construction organization, but in such cases you will have to pay not only the cost of the material.

You will need to spend additional money on the services provided. However, these funds do not need to be spent; you can make the concrete solution yourself.

So, for work you will need to take:

coarse sifted sand (it is important to exclude the presence of clay in it);
granite crushed stone (size 20×40 mm or 5×20 mm);
Portland cement (grade M500 or M400);
fittings (diameter from 8 to 10 mm);
steel wire;
extruded polystyrene foam;
geotextiles (as an alternative, you can use construction polyethylene, the thickness of which should be 30-50 microns);
boards.

To make it easier to mix the concrete mixture, it is good to have a concrete mixer with a total volume of up to 200 liters. However, this device alone will not work. It is also necessary to prepare:

shovel;
buckets;
a sieve with which the sand will be sifted (as an alternative, in the absence of such a sieve, you can use an armored mesh from the bed);
Master OK;
building level;
laser level;
rule;
grater

It is also important to have any source of water and power nearby if used. electric model concrete mixers.

Once you can decide on the brands of materials, you can begin preparing the mixture. It is better to install the concrete mixer in the place closest to the crushed stone. Otherwise, you will have to carry it in buckets, making the task a little more difficult for yourself.

Water is also needed: you will either have to carry it in buckets, or take advantage of a more rational proposal by connecting a long hose to a water source.

You will need approximately the same amount of water as cement. Although sometimes this amount may vary depending on the moisture content of the crushed stone and sand. For this reason, it is impossible to get an exact recipe; you have to do something “by eye”.

When preparing the mixture, the order in which the materials are added is important. The most important thing is the need to fill the concrete mixer drum with approximately 8 liters of water. Next, the device turns on, the drum begins to rotate, at this moment all other ingredients are poured in according to the following scheme:

They pour in the cement and wait until it is well mixed and a substance that looks like “gray milk” is obtained (if unmixed cement is observed on the walls of the unit, the concrete mixer is stopped, the cement is scraped off the walls using a trowel, and then the device is started again).
Add sand and add a small amount of water.
They fill up with crushed stone.

After the mixture has been stirred for several minutes, you need to visually evaluate the composition and decide whether more water needs to be added to the mixture.

To get a strong and reliable blind area around the house, you need to prepare a concrete mixture with your own hands strictly according to the recommendations.

Work on the formation of the blind area

It is more correct to build the blind area initially, and not after the house is completely erected. This requirement is not put forward by chance.

Firstly, such work is accompanied by the risk of exposing heavy pollution walls of the house, because in the process of performing tasks, splashes fly in different directions.

Secondly, basement thermal insulation should be installed only with an emphasis on the thermal insulation of the blind area. And if you have an already constructed blind area, it will be easier to erect walls, since there is already a surface on which scaffolding can be placed.

To create a blind area, you must perform five sequential steps.

First, they dig a trench into which the concrete mixture will be poured. The width of such a trench should be from 80 to 100 cm. By the way, it is not at all necessary to measure the width of the blind area with the existing overhangs. When digging a trench, it is rather important to decide whether it is necessary to create storm drains or not.

The depth of the trench may vary. First of all, it is important to remove the layer of soil with signs of vegetation (with particles of the plant root system). Sometimes you have to dig a trench up to one meter deep, and sometimes 10 cm is enough to remove the vegetation cover. However, in any case, you need to continue to go deeper until a hard layer is reached, when it will be difficult for the shovel to enter the ground.

Then move on to the next step. Since the blind area is constructed with insulation, geofabric is laid at the bottom of the dug trench. If you really need to save at least a little, polyethylene can be used instead of geofabric. Such a substrate can act as an effective obstacle to plant growth if some seed remains in the ground.

Next, crushed stone is poured into the trench in an even layer, which must be compacted. Another layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the crushed stone. It is recommended to use fiberglass here. Next, a layer of sand up to 20 cm high is poured. It is important to exclude the presence of clay in it. Using the rule, the surface of the sand flooring is leveled and then compacted.

After this, the sand is watered and compacted again to obtain a dense base.

If necessary, small trenches are dug in the sand into which storm drains are installed. It is important to install rainwater inlets on a slope. If it is laid horizontally, precipitation will not be able to drain. After laying the storm water inlets, the surface is leveled and compacted again.

Now there is a need to build a formwork that will act as a beacon when pouring the concrete mixture. The boards are placed around the perimeter of the blind area. Next, foam plastic is laid on top of the sand, which acts as insulation, so it must fit tightly to the foundation.

If necessary, penoplex sheets are secured by drilling holes and hammering rods into them. When all the rods are installed, they are connected, as in the photo, using wire.

The last step left is to pour the concrete mixture. When pouring, it is important to take into account that the risk of cracking from temperature changes is typical for a huge slab. For this reason, it is better to use a little construction trick. Along the entire perimeter of the formwork, boards are placed at an angle. They won't let you create monolithic slab, and will also act as beacons indicating how to pour the mixture to ensure the slope of the blind area.

The minimum height of the blind area should be 10-15 cm. It must be above the ground surface. The height of the blind area at the foundation, accordingly, should be 1-2 cm higher than the specified indicator.

The solution is poured, strictly monitoring the preservation of the angle of inclination. The next day the surface is rubbed with a grater. Well, at the end of all the work, clinker or ceramic tiles are laid on the blind area. Of course, you can do without it, but it will contribute to a significant improvement in the overall aesthetics of the building.

The blind area around the house is important element construction of most buildings, and it cannot be ignored. Building a concrete blind area with your own hands is quite simple if you follow the step-by-step instructions and take into account all the recommendations. It is also useful to watch a video that clearly demonstrates each stage of creating a blind area.

Upon completion of construction activities for the construction of a building, a feeling is created that the structure is completely ready. The desire to do internal improvements and move in quickly makes the developer miss some nuances. One of these moments is a blind area around the house, which significantly extends the life of the structure and protects the base of the building from moisture.

There is a misconception that the blind area of a private house is not necessary element buildings. However, you should not put off its construction until “tomorrow.” After all, it is gradually decreasing load bearing capacity at an unprotected foundation, which is deformed as a result of intense moisture absorption.

The blind area of the house is one of important aspects in creating long and comfortable operation of the house itself

Used in construction various options edging performed around the perimeter of the building. To ensure a long service life of the structure, reliable protection foundation, it is important, following the technology, to correctly make a blind area around the house. Let us dwell in detail on its purpose, parameters and varieties. We will select the materials and tools necessary to complete the work. Let's look in detail at how, according to construction technology, a blind area is made around the foundation of a building.

Why is it necessary to make a blind area?

The blind area of a private house represents structural element around the building, made with a slope along the perimeter of the foundation. It performs serious functions, the main of which are:

reliable protection of the building foundation from the effects of precipitation;
drainage of water along the perimeter of the foundation of the building into the storm drain;
reducing the depth of soil freezing around the building, which reduces heat losses;
preventing soil swelling at subzero temperatures;
preventing damage to the foundation surface by plant roots;
providing a finished look to the building by creating a transition between the plinth and the ground.

Having completed the construction work, it is necessary to complete the edging along the contour of the building before the onset of cold weather, so that the moisture-saturated layer of soil does not damage the integrity of the base when frozen.

After intense rain or snowfall, or melting snow, water may accumulate near the building

Design parameters

The width of the edging is more than 60 cm. To ensure ease of movement, it is necessary to expand the path to 100 cm.
Exceeding the width above the contour of the roof by more than 20 cm. This contributes to the ingress of precipitation onto the surface.
A closed path configuration that completely encircles the building. The perimeter foundation must be protected.
The slope of the surface towards the soil is in the range of 1–10%, which corresponds to a slope of 1 to 10 cm per meter of width. At an increased angle, there is a high probability of slipping during glaciation.
Surface layer thickness concrete pouring around the building, amounting to 7–10 cm. The parameter depends on the depth of soil freezing, increases to 14 cm with increased loads.
Construction of a border that makes it difficult to damage the base by the root system of plants.
The elevation of the edging above the zero mark is 50 mm. This makes it difficult for precipitation to flood along the outer edge.

Compliance regulatory documents will provide comfortable operating conditions and durability of the structure.

When creating a drain, creating a blind area is mandatory

Blind area around the house - necessary materials and coatings

A blind area is made around the building using various materials:

concrete paving stones. Specialized stores offer material of various colors and original configurations. The presence of curves significantly reduces the likelihood of edges chipping. The dimensions of the paving stones allow them to bear the loads associated with movement. Edging elements improve aesthetic perception. The material is resistant to deep freezing, temperature changes and allows you to quickly complete masonry by filling the gaps between the elements with sand;
natural stone. Stone paving stones are made from natural granite in various shades. The material is supplied in the form of chipped or sawn blanks. Products are offered in standard cubic or parallelepiped shapes. Laying is carried out similarly to paving stones cast from concrete, on a pre-prepared base up to 50 mm thick made of fine gravel or sand. After sealing the seams, the formed stone mass is compacted;
concrete. Usage concrete mortar is an inexpensive solution that provides waterproof and high strength. For pouring, the soil is prepared and wooden formwork is installed for concreting. Expansion joints are also made along the contour of the building. Well received concrete surface, decorated with multi-colored pebbles measuring 1–5 cm;

To create a strong, durable blind area, you will need to choose the right materials High Quality and strictly adhere to the technological aspects of construction

paving slabs. The ease of use of the plates lies in the ability to easily replace damaged elements. Tiles are being made square shape with a side up to 0.5 m and rectangular products up to 1 m long. Along with the standard gray color of the products, you can purchase multi-colored material with a smooth or decorative texture. If the size of the edging is a multiple of the width of the slabs, trimming can be avoided and the work can be completed quickly;
crushed stone Easy to manufacture option for use in close proximity groundwater and implementation around the structure of the drainage system. Along with crushed stone, expanded clay and ordinary gravel are used. For ease of movement, the layer of material should be carefully compacted with the preliminary installation of geotextiles. It makes it difficult for weeds to grow and protects the material from mixing with the soil.

Concreting is widely used. To perform the work, prepare tools and necessary materials:

A shovel, wheelbarrow and buckets necessary when removing a layer of soil and transporting materials.
A device for manual compaction, allowing compaction of the massif.
Building level for horizontal control.
Materials for waterproofing protection.
Wood for making formwork.
Steel reinforcement or ready-made mesh with a square cell of 10 cm side.
Sifted sand.

The blind area should be formed with a slope. This will allow water to flow away from the walls of the building.

Medium sized crushed stone.
Portland cement grade M300.
Clay.
Extruded polystyrene foam for insulation.
Construction cord and pegs for marking.

Blind area of a private house - features and types of structures

Regardless of the type of structure and manufacturing technology, the blind area is a path around the perimeter of the building. Consists of the following layers:

underlying The base is fine gravel, clay or sand. The damping layer forms a compacted base for the outer covering;
finishing It is a finishing coating that protects the foundation from moisture penetration. Provides aesthetic perception.

There are various options for making a blind area around the house. Blind surfaces are divided into the following groups:

How to make a blind area around the house - stages of work

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An enlarged set of measures to ensure the protection of the foundation by concreting the edging includes the following stages:

Site preparation.

It wouldn’t hurt to insulate the blind area additionally. This way the soil will freeze less in cold weather.

Performing waterproofing.
Formation of bedding.
Frame installation.
Installation of insulation.
Reinforcement with reinforcement.
Concreting.

Let's look at the features of each stage. Let's figure out in detail how to make a blind area at home.

Preparatory work for the blind area around the house

Produce preparatory activities in the following order:

Remove vegetation, clean upper layer soil along the contour of the building.
Make markings using construction cord and pegs.
Check with a plumb line that it is positioned correctly relative to the edge of the roof.
Remove the soil layer to the required depth.
Remove soil from the work site.

No matter how many floors there are in a built house, high-quality drainage is necessary. It will seriously increase the service life of the blind area

Making a hydraulic lock

Form the waterproofing protection using the following materials:

fatty clay. Fill in a layer of sand 50 mm thick. Compact, water and level the surface. Form a layer of clay 10–12 cm thick on top of the sand in the pit;
roll waterproofing. A sand layer that has been previously compacted and spilled with water is covered with roofing felt, polyethylene film or geotextile without additional tension.

Shaping the pillow

Arrange the pillow according to the following algorithm:

Fill the crushed stone with a layer of 100 mm. If there is no material, you can use broken bricks or a mixture of gravel of various fractions, which promotes better compaction.
Fill the pit with a layer of sand 10–14 cm thick, compact it with a vibrating plate, pouring water.
When compacting, ensure the required angle of inclination of the surface.

When pouring concrete, care must be taken to ensure that no air pockets are formed and cement mixture evenly filled the entire space

If drainage is necessary, perform the following work:

Prepare a pit around the building with a depth of 0.1 m and a width of 0.2 m.
Install drainage lines and fill with gravel.
Lay the pipes with a slope sufficient for complete drainage of water.

The installation of storm water inlets completes the assembly of the drainage system at the stage of pillow formation.

How to install formwork correctly

Make and assemble wooden frame, guided by the following algorithm:

Cut blanks of the required size from boards 3–4 cm thick.
Treat the wood with an antiseptic compound.
Hammer the formwork supports into the ground and attach them to the board edging.
Ensure that the seams in the gaps between the boards are sealed.
Form an expansion joint at the junction of the plinth.
Install thin strips perpendicular to the walls at intervals of 200 cm to form transverse joints.
Check with a level that the formwork is positioned correctly.

A reliable, time-tested method of protecting the foundation from exposure surface waters– installation of a concrete blind area around the house. The undoubted advantage of a concrete blind area is its low cost and ease of manufacture.

100% protection from moisture, which is provided by a concrete blind area with a complete coating, cannot be guaranteed by any material (without arranging a multi-tiered “pie”). The condition of the foundation directly affects the position of the entire structure. Therefore, the foundation needs major protection.

This is precisely the main task of the blind area - protecting the foundation and base of the house. In addition to the barrier, it performs several other functions. For example, it allows you to organize more convenient movement along the blind area and gives the building a finished appearance.

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to properly make a blind area around a concrete house with your own hands. We propose to divide all the stages of arrangement into theoretical and applied.

In the first part, we will look at what you need to know and prepare before getting started.

In the second - how to prepare the bed and properly pour the concrete blind area.

Requirements for the blind area and rules for its construction

width of concrete blind area, according to SNiP 2.02.01-83 should be 200 mm. more than overhang roofing material. If there is a drain, its parameters are also taken into account. The same SNiP regulates the width depending on the type of soil. The traditional (optimal) width of the blind area can be considered 1 meter. This width provides freedom of movement and acts as a path around the house;

length. Since the foundation needs protection along the entire perimeter of the house, it is logical that the blind area should also completely surround the building. The only exception may be the installation site of a concrete porch;

depth or level of penetration of the blind area should not exceed half of the calculated depth of soil freezing characteristic of a particular region. This parameter can be viewed in the table or you can request information from the architecture department at the location of the object.
The ability of a concrete blind area to move with the soil gives it its functions. Otherwise, its role will be reduced to draining water, which is not enough to protect the foundation.

Note. The depth of freezing is affected by the presence of communications in the ground.

concrete blind area thickness. The minimum thickness of the surface layer is 70-100 mm. If increased operational load is planned, for example, vehicle movement, the thickness can reach up to 150 mm;

slope of the blind area. SNiP III-10-75 recommends what the slope should be - from 10 to 100 mm per 1 meter of width (i.e. 1-10%). The angle of inclination is directed in the direction opposite to the foundation of the house. Slope requirements depend on regional rainfall levels and soil type. In practice, the slope is taken to be 20-30 mm per 1 m (2-3 degrees). If you do more, then in case of icing, it will be difficult to move along such a blind area;

border. In the case of a blind area, the border is a decorative element and the decision to install it is made based on the preferences of the home owner and his financial capabilities. However, if bushes are planted in the immediate vicinity of the blind area - “root aggressors” (raspberries, blackberries) or trees that have a powerful superficial root system (poplar, sycamore), then installing a limiter is mandatory;

plinth height. The standards establish a minimum plinth height of 500 mm for a hard type blind area and a minimum of 300 mm for a soft type. Let us remind you that the blind area around a concrete house is of the rigid type;

height of the blind area from ground level. It is desirable that the blind area be 50 mm higher above the ground level. This recommendation is due to the fact that water should not accumulate on the edge of the blind area and turn into puddles. In winter, this is fraught with freezing and, accordingly, destruction of the structure.

concrete blind area design has a specific device diagram, which is shown in the drawing below.

Armed with the above data, you can proceed directly to the installation of a concrete foundation blind area.

How to make a concrete blind area around a house

Preparation of material:

concrete for blind area. Grade is an indicator of the quality of concrete; its value ranges from 100 to 1000. It indicates the proportion of cement content in concrete. The concrete class ranges from B3.5 to B8 and indicates the strength of concrete. Thus, class B 15 indicates that a concrete cube measuring 15x15x15 cm is capable of withstanding a pressure of 15 MPa.

What brand of concrete is needed for the blind area? To prepare the solution, use cement grade M 200 (class B15).

The parameters (properties) of concrete depending on the brand are shown in the table.

sand. Which one do you need? For the bottom layer of the pillow, river or quarry sand. The main thing is that it does not contain large impurities that can damage geotextiles;

crushed stone (gravel). Crushed stone of fraction 10-20 is suitable for the blind area;

clay or geotexil for hydraulic locking. In practice, this layer is absent in the base cushion, because concrete drains water well;

cement for ironing.

Composition of concrete mortar for blind area

If it is not possible to use ready-made concrete, you can mix it yourself. To do this you need to prepare:

cement for blind area. You should know that the grade of concrete is determined by the grade of cement and its specific gravity as a percentage of the components of the solution. For the blind area, cement M400 Portland cement is used. The cement must be fresh; with each month of storage it loses 5% of its properties. It’s easy to check the freshness; just squeeze a little cement in your fist; if it shrinks into a lump, its shelf life is running out; if it crumbles freely, you can work with it;

Note. What cement is best for blind areas? Naturally fresh and of high quality. This will save on cement consumption and prepare a good concrete solution.

sand. To prepare concrete, you need to take concrete that has been sifted and washed to remove impurities and soil;

crushed stone It is advisable to use crushed stone of a fraction of 5-10 mm. At the same time, crushed stone is better than, for example, small pebbles;

water. Should be at room temperature;

additives. They are needed to give concrete frost-resistant properties. Often used as a supplement liquid glass.

The tools you will need are a concrete mixer or a mixing container, a shovel, a bucket (it’s better to take a plastic one, it’s easier to clean), a measuring container (for water), a hand-tamping log or a vibrating plate.

Preparation of concrete mortar for blind area

In practice, the solution for the blind area is prepared in portions, after all preparatory work. We will provide a ready-made recipe for cement mortar and how to mix it correctly.

The composition of the concrete solution includes: cement, crushed stone, sand, water and various additives that increase its strength. The durability and strength of the blind area depends on the ratio (proportions) of these components.

Note. Components are measured by weight only.

Proportions of solution for blind area

Note. 1 cubic meter of sand is on average equal to 1600 kg, 1 cubic meter of crushed stone is on average equal to 1500 kg.

Depending on the brand of concrete, the proportions will differ. SNiP 82-02-95 regulates the composition of the mixture for producing concrete of a certain grade.

The concrete mixture is very demanding on the amount of water supplied. Its excess reduces the strength of concrete, because removes cement flour to the top layer of the solution. This leads to the fact that the strength is distributed unevenly. In practice, it is calculated that water should be approximately half the amount of cement. More accurate data is contained in the table (water-cement ratio (W/C) for concrete).

The order in which the components are added to the solution also matters. Cement is first poured into a mixing container or concrete mixer and water is added. By mixing, the so-called cement laitance is obtained. Next, the remaining components are added to it. First, sand is poured in small portions, and then crushed stone (gravel).

Note. Professionals advise maintaining an interval of 5 minutes. between feeding components. This way the mixture mixes better.

Technology for constructing a blind area made of concrete with insulation

Step-by-step instruction:

Preparing the base for the blind area. To do this, the top layer of soil is removed, all roots, stones, etc. are removed. Using a blanket herbicide will eliminate activity under the substrate. For example, the drugs Agrokiller or Tornado.

Advice. Considering that the blind area must exceed the edge of the roof slope by 200 mm, it is recommended to use a plumb line to accurately mark the boundary of the blind area.

Marking. To do this, we pull the rope onto the stakes hammered in the corners. To avoid sagging of the rope, you need to install intermediate stakes (at a distance of 5-6 m from each other).

Advice. How to determine the required angle of inclination of the blind area? Craftsmen install additional beacons (stretch a rope) on the base of the house. Fastening is done every 1-1.5 meters.

Hydraulic lock device. To do this, lay fatty clay in a layer of 100-150 mm or cover the bottom with geotextiles (roofing felt, PVC film, advertising banner, etc.). Please note that to prevent the film from tearing, it is better to pour a layer of sand of 50-100 mm at the bottom of the trench. A layer of sand of the same thickness is also poured on top of the film. The sand is leveled, moistened and compacted. In the case of a clay hydraulic lock, there is only one sand layer. When laying the film, you should avoid tension. It must be able to move freely with the ground.

Note. Experts advise making high-quality drainage near the hydraulic lock. To do this, you need to dig a trench 100 mm deep and 200 mm wide and fill it with crushed stone or lay a drainage pipe in it, wrap it with geotextile and fill it with crushed stone. This will increase the rate of water drainage.

It is worth noting that many people ignore this stage of work. In practice, this attitude results in the fact that the water passing through the expansion joint goes directly under the foundation, and when it freezes, it leads to an increase in pressure on it.

Backfilling of crushed stone. The layer thickness varies from 50 to 100 mm. The gravel is leveled and compacted. Since crushed stone is difficult to compact, some recommend using a special grid for laying it, which is used in landscape design for making gravel paths. We note right away that this will increase the cost of the blind area without much need.

Backfilling with sand.

Laying communication pipes. To do this, a depression is made in the sand for pipes and storm drains.

Insulation of the blind area. Expanded polystyrene or penoplex is laid on the compacted sand with which crushed stone and communications are covered. Only hard insulation is suitable for the blind area, but it is afraid of point loads, so it must be laid on a sand cushion.

Advice. Cold bridges can be eliminated by laying insulation in two offset layers.

Reinforcement of concrete blind area. This is done by laying reinforcement mesh with cells of 50x50 or 100x100 mm or by knitting a reinforcement cage.

Advice. Chain-link mesh is not suitable for reinforcement - it is too flexible.

If insulation is not intended, the reinforcing mesh is laid directly on the crushed stone to a height of 20-30 mm. Which will contribute to better distribution of concrete.

Formwork installation. Boards or plywood are installed strictly according to level. To level out the pushing force of concrete, the formwork is reinforced with stakes that are installed on its outer side. During installation, do not forget that the formwork is removable, which means that all seams will be visible after its dismantling. In this case, the blind area will have an ugly appearance. Therefore, when installing boards, you need to ensure that internal seams were invisible.

Device expansion joints . To do this, we install wooden slats and boards (on edge), which are pre-treated with an antiseptic or tarred. The recommended distance between the expansion joints of the blind area is 2-2.5 meters. Expansion joints must be made diagonally in the place where the formwork turns (at the corners). The purpose of the expansion joint is to compensate for the thermal expansion of concrete during operation. They are installed level, taking into account the angle of inclination of the formwork, because When pouring concrete, they are guided by them. An alternative to wood can be Guerlain butyl rubber tapes (10 RUR/m) or a hydro-swelling elastic cord, for example, Penebar Rapid SW45 A/B.

How to seal the seams in the blind area?

According to reviews, those who ignored the formation of expansion joints had cracks after the first winter. Many people believe that wood swells and allows moisture to pass through. You can seal the resulting cracks with special sealants, such as TEKTOR 103 mastic (225 rubles/piece), ISOSEAL P-40 (280 rubles/piece).

Pouring a concrete blind area. When pouring concrete, you need to ensure that no air pockets are formed and that the cement mixture evenly fills the entire space. It is important that no bumps or depressions appear when pouring. Their presence will lead to stagnation of water in these places. If it is not possible to do the entire blind area at one time, part of it is poured, and then work is resumed.

Advice. When pouring a blind area, you can use a technique for uniform distribution of concrete - bayoneting. To do this, the concrete is “pierced” with a rod, and the solution fills the entire space.

How to properly pour a concrete blind area around a house - video

Protection of concrete blind area from destruction

Many people are interested in how to cover the concrete blind area around the house. After all, after pouring the solution, the blind area must be protected from heaving, deformation, destruction, and exposure to moisture, rain, and snow. Let's consider how and what is the best way to do this.

Ways to protect the foundation blind area:

Ironing of concrete blind area around the house

How to iron a blind area with your own hands?

Dry ironing method - freshly poured concrete is sprinkled with a layer of cement (2 mm) followed by grouting. Dry cement binds to the concrete mortar and increases its ability to withstand the effects of water.

Wet ironing method - 12-14 days after pouring (when the concrete has dried), you need to walk over the surface of the blind area with a cement-sand mortar (1:1) with the addition of lime paste (10% of the volume of the mixture).

Coating the blind area with a primer

Primers are suitable for this deep penetration, such as AURA Unigrund KRAFT (90 rubles). Primer solutions are used when additional finishing is planned. For example, tiling or painting. If this is not in the plans, it is better to use a water repellent, for example, Eskaro Aquastop Waterproof W (1200 rubles) or GKZh-11 (195 rubles/5 l). Concrete hardeners such as Monopol 1 (1,600 rubles/5 kg), Monolit-20M (1,200 rubles/10 l), Protexil (3,600 rubles/20 l) or Ashford Formula ($120/10 l) are gaining popularity.

Protecting the blind area with liquid glass

A solution of liquid glass and cement is a more budget option protective composition(primer, water repellent), providing a similar result. A solution with liquid glass is prepared from a mixture of cement, water and liquid glass in a proportion (ratio) of 1:1:1.

Covering the blind area with a layer of enamel

The enamel must meet certain parameters for frost resistance, vapor permeability, moisture resistance, and environmental friendliness. Polyurethane enamel ELAKOR-PU (220 rubles/kg) has proven itself to be excellent.

Covering the blind area with tiles and stones

Lay tiles (ceramic, clinker, paving), pebbles or a natural stone. In this case, concrete acts as a binding solution.

It is advisable to install a storm drain near the blind area, which will drain the flowing water and prevent siltation of the area;

To ensure uniform drying of the poured concrete, the blind area is covered with film. Thus, evaporated moisture will be retained on its surface. Since it is difficult to cover a wide blind area with film, it can be periodically moistened. The time until complete hardening with a blind area thickness of 100 mm is 1.5-2 weeks;

After the concrete has completely dried, the blind area is removed. You should be careful here, because... Removing the blind area can lead to damage to the edges of the blind area.

This order of work and taking into account all these nuances guarantees the long-term full functioning of the concrete blind area.

Do-it-yourself concrete blind area around the house repair

To the most common problems applies:

The appearance of cracks in the blind area

How to repair cracks in the blind area?

Elimination depends on the depth of the damage (cracks, crevices, concrete breaks):

no more than 1 mm. Self-healing is used. Such a crack is not dangerous and is usually rubbed away by friction during walking;

no more than 3 mm. Involves the use of “cement dough”. Shallow cracks can be sealed (filled) with a liquid cement solution (1 part cement to 1 part water);

3-30 mm. Such cracks are considered large. To eliminate them, you can use a special sealant such as the above-mentioned TEKTOR 103, ISOSEAL P-40. You can seal the crack with freshly prepared concrete mortar. However, before this the crack needs to be widened. In cross section it should resemble a cone. Apply primer over the entire area of the crack. Any will do, for example, Ceresit ST-17 (450-500 rubles/10 l). Next, the solution is poured. You can use the so-called hydroseal, a special cement-based solution that hardens in 15 minutes. An example is Lugato 5-Minuten Mortel putty (410 RUR 5 kg)

crack depth exceeding half the thickness of the blind area, this is already a cracking of concrete and refers to significant damage. It can only be eliminated by expansion followed by pouring new concrete.

Delamination of the surface of the blind area over the entire area

In the language of masters, this process is called concrete dusting or delamination (delamination). The reason for this phenomenon may be several factors. For example, uneven hardening of concrete happens if you pour concrete mortar onto a cold surface (observed when working in early spring) or make the blind area thicker. Increased air content in the concrete mixture. Excess of crushed stone parts in the concrete composition.

What to do if the concrete blind area crumbles?

If the process is just beginning, then the surface should be covered with “cement paste” or a composition that contains liquid glass (proportions: cement, water and liquid glass - 1: 1: 1).

If the damage has reached significant proportions, then radical measures must be taken:

determine the boundaries of the damage to prevent its spread;
cut out part of the concrete;
cover the edges of the blind area with a primer;
apply a new layer of solution;
cover with film until completely dry.

If you start it, you will have to completely dismantle the blind area and fill in a new one. The measures described above will help extend the life of the blind area and save on alterations and reconstruction.

The cost of installing a concrete blind area without material

And the last thing that interests everyone who wants to order the construction of a blind area is the prices for a concrete blind area. If you entrust the work to craftsmen, then the estimate must contain the costs of the work, which are presented in the table (approximate data as of the end of 2015)

Service - work on the blind area of a private house	Doing the work yourself	The cost of a master’s work per sq. m.
Material price	We do not take into account, because the cost will be the same
Removing the old blind area (dismantling)	0	65
Marking and excavation (depth 600 mm)	0	300
Hydraulic lock made of clay	0	100
Laying film or geotextile	0	40
Backfilling the sand layer + tamping (5 mm.)	0	80
Formation of crushed stone layer (100 mm)	0	80
Installation of a storm drain	0	250
Pipe laying (per m.p.)	0	50
Construction of a concrete blind area (ready-made concrete)	0	300
Construction of a concrete blind area (mixing concrete)	0	650
Total	Saving	About 1200-1400 rubles

Please note that it is unlikely that you will be able to negotiate a significant discount here. After all, this price does not take into account the cost of materials. For a complete picture, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the cost of materials for the production of a concrete blind area per 1 m.

Conclusion

Agree, it’s a good incentive to make a concrete blind area with your own hands. Moreover, from the given instructions it is clear that this work does not require special tool, some special materials, just the desire to protect the foundation of the house with a reliable barrier.