From A to Z - everything about stocks for car body repairs. DIY slipway

A modern slipway for car body repair is the most efficient equipment to correct the frame that received mechanical damage during an accident or other collisions. IN Lately Road traffic accidents are occurring more and more frequently. As a result, all cars, including even those that have been in a minor accident, need body restoration. Let's find out what the features and advantages of slipway equipment are, as well as how to make it yourself.

Types of slipways

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There are 4 main types of body repair devices. As a rule, the following types of this machine are distinguished.

Equipment called “frame stand”.
Floor type of slipway equipment.
Roll-up view of the slipway.
A platform type of slipway.

The frame stand is almost the most popular and widespread type of equipment when it comes to performing finishing manipulations on the body. Not a single species can do without this stand. restoration work in a professional workshop.

Among distinctive features The frame stand can be distinguished by its compactness, because it does not take up much space compared to its analogues. Also, this particular type of slipway equipment is considered very comfortable to use and provides multifaceted opportunities.

What is a frame stand? This special installation, which successfully returns the shape of body elements to their original structure. Without this machine it is practically impossible to imagine body repair work.

The floor type of slipway equipment is reliable and high-quality equipment. Its use is justified due to the efficiency and simplicity of installation work.

This type of slipway equipment is installed on a flat platform and then fixed with special anchor bolt fasteners. There is no need to carry out any additional installation work.

A rolling machine is needed for body work light type. In this case, the force exerted by the equipment does not exceed 5 tons.

The rolling type of slipway equipment is not fixed to the floor; it can be easily and quickly used by lifting a car onto the machine. All this can be done by one person. An ideal machine for leveling side members, door pillars and other body parts.

As for the equipment, the rolling stock should come with a hook with 2 fastening points, 5 and 6 ton clamps, a pneumatic hydraulic pump with a pedal, stands, etc.

The dimensions of a typical rolling stock are 350 cm in length, 220 cm in width, 20 cm in height. The weight of the machine is about 400 kg.

The platform slipway has a reliable fixation system. Thanks to this, it is possible to pull the body in different directions, simultaneously applying different amounts of force.

DIY making

Realizing that the slipway effectively replaces physical strength in stretching, Russian body repair enthusiasts came up with a homemade version of it.

The operating principle of standard slipway equipment is clear: a car is mounted on a frame. The main thing is reliable fixation, because the positive outcome of the case depends on it.

High-quality slipway equipment is not cheap. Often for this reason, many hobbyists decide to make this machine with their own hands.

First of all, making a slipway at home involves calculating the necessary components. A drawing is made and the required supply of materials is calculated. The base of the slipway is a tetrahedron made of an iron profile with a section of 50x50 or 70x40. As for the length, 200 cm is considered optimal, and the width should be equal to the wheelbase of the car.

A stiffener made of a similar material – a metal profile – is welded in the middle of the platform. Then, as mentioned above, a calculation is carried out, and the amount of the required metal is ordered at a special base or found in another way.

The slipway is also equipped with good hydraulics. In this case, a kit that can withstand a load of up to 10 tons is suitable.

Depending on what type of slipway it will be (mobile or stationary), it is equipped accordingly. A stationary slipway should not move, and therefore is not equipped with wheels. A mobile bench, on the contrary, in addition to wheels, must also be equipped with a device for storing the machine in a vertical position.

The assembly process is carried out using welding. This means that welding skills are required.

Here's what to do:

Assemble a rectangle from the profile, and then reinforce it in the middle with additional material.

Note. A homemade slipway can be assembled at the request of the future owner. It is likely that he will want to strengthen the machine longitudinally or transversely. Therefore, it is not possible to give definitive advice on this matter.

Heights are welded into the corners of the machine to prevent the car from possibly rolling off the slipway;
Clamps are installed on the longitudinal sides of the frame;

A power rack is installed in the shape of the letter “L”, which can easily move and be secured anywhere in the frame.

All that's left to do is paint it homemade machine, equip it with components for repair and start using it.

On video homemade installation for body repair

You can learn more about the operation of the body slipway and its capabilities from video and photo materials, as well as from other publications on our website.

It will not be possible to cope with straightening a car body without the use of special aids. One of the main devices for restoration of body geometry damaged as a result of an accident is a slipway. This device allows several tons of force to be applied to compress or stretch the body. Wherein prerequisite is reliable fastening car on a special frame: the result of the work will depend on this. If it is not possible to purchase such a design, it is possible to use a homemade slipway for body repair.

Types of slipways

In order to properly repair your car, you should choose the most suitable option slipway. There are mainly three types of these devices, each of which can develop a force of up to 10 tons:

Making a slipway with your own hands: frame design

You can make a slipway yourself; to do this, you should study the video and photos on the Internet, where it is described step-by-step work on its creation. The manufacturing process is time-consuming and expensive homemade device won't take. Of course, for repair work hydraulics are required, which is not possible to make at home. Therefore, let’s look at how you can make a slipway frame that is responsible for fixing the car. You need to start with a drawing, which you can create yourself, or download a photo on the Internet.

To make a cross beam you need metallic profile, on which a rack with grips will subsequently be attached, fixing the thresholds of the car. Threshold grips are made from metal corners, in which holes are drilled for mounting bolts. Then the corners are welded to the beam. You need to make holes taking into account the car model. If you need to change the dimensions, you can simply drill additional holes in the beam. The minimum profile dimensions are section 40x80 mm and length 150 mm. Such parameters allow us to repair almost all types of passenger cars.

In order to make racks, you will need a longitudinal metal profile with a cross-section of 20x40 mm. The height of each rack should be 25 cm. To strengthen it, you need to weld gussets from the same profile. Corners are welded at the top to grip the thresholds of the car.

To ensure good adhesion, you can pre-notch or weld the nuts. Use bolts and nuts with fine threads as fasteners. Helpful advice: It is best to borrow fastening elements from foreign cars, where the bolts are much stronger and of better quality than in any store. It is better to fix the racks on the beam with M10 bolts: such fasteners allow you to work with hydraulics that develop a traction force of up to 4 tons.

The final stage of work

To protect against corrosion, it is necessary to create a reliable protective covering, because the device will be installed in a place high humidity. To do this, after first cleaning all the structural elements, we cover it with a primer. Most reliable protection An epoxy primer will prevent rust from appearing, so it is better to use it. Without waiting for the primer to dry, apply paint with a spray bottle. (To make it more presentable homemade design, that is, a factory look, after the paint has dried, you can apply black stripes to the frame).

So, the homemade frame is almost ready. All that remains is to install it in the prepared place. You can make another similar device, but do not fix it to the floor, but attach it to a rotating column. By combining this design with the one described above, we get a mobile version.

How much will it cost to purchase a slipway or straightening stand? At least 50 thousand. In this case, this slipway will be suitable only for working with light damage. For serious and complex work, you will need a stand or slipway with a much higher price, and it can be 10 or even 20 times higher than the price indicated above. I present to your attention short review manufacturing a very powerful slipway with a budget that you can determine yourself. It all depends on the price of the metal, which can be purchased both at metal bases and at ferrous metal acceptance sites. The basis is the 16th channel. Why 16th? Well, at least because the width of the 2 welded channels allows almost any car to freely drive onto it, and this is important, and in terms of strength, this slipway will give odds to any factory one.

The idea of creating a slipway was taken from the Internet, in particular from Vitaly Kakhovka. Dimensions 4.5 by 1.85. Why like this? Because it normal size. And period. One of the biggest advantages of this slipway is that it can be placed in a standard garage, or any other room in which it will fit. Unlike similar frame construction slipways, this slipway does not have so-called “geese” (as in the photo), which increase work area both in front and on the side over a sufficiently large distance, which does not allow the use of such a slipway in a regular garage.

For the manufacture of the slipway, 46 meters of 16th channel were purchased. Moreover, half of it was found at reception, which reduced the price by several thousand. 20 meters were purchased at 25 rubles per kg. at the reception of ferrous metal, and the rest was purchased at the metal base at a price of 570 rubles per meter.

The channel was immediately marked and cut to size.

The length of the extreme ones is 4.5 m. The length of the middle ones is 3.76 and the length of the lintels is 1.5 m. Then the channel was assembled into boxes and tightened with clamps. Seized at joints at several points. After welding 2 boxes of 4.5 meters each to eliminate deflection on the boxes, they were again tightened with clamps and pieces of the 12th channel with holes had to be welded to them and the boxes were tightened with bolts. After this, the boxes were tack welded to each other so that they would not be deformed during welding. They will be cut later. After this, the boxes were scalded more thoroughly. Without any special markings, by eye, using tacks of 4-6 cm every 10-20 cm.

After welding all the channels into blanks, in the form of boxes, half of the blanks are set aside. We lay out on the floor the outer contour of the slipway from boxes 4.5 meters long (and this is exactly the length of the slipway) and internal, more precisely, perpendicular boxes 1.5 meters long. I set the horizontal position using a level, placing under the boxes the thickness of wooden chips or metal scraps that was required. Also, before welding the first outer contour of the slipway, the diagonals were measured several times with a tape measure. After this, the boxes were welded (with tacks in the corners and center, as well as along internal corners and centers) between each other into a rectangle. Then this structure was turned 180* and tacked reverse side in all corners. Then all joints were thoroughly welded. After this, the first contour of the frame was again turned 180* and scalded. After this, we begin assembling the interior of the slipway. For this we have 2 boxes of 1.5 m each, the same as external boxes. We grab them to the long box, departing 6 cm from the outer box.

We do the same with the other side.

Why 6 and not 4 or 8? Don't know. I decided that doing less and doing more is not worth it. And the longitudinal blanks - the boxes - had already been measured and cut precisely to fit this gap, as intended. Then we again repeat the procedure of turning the future slipway 180* and scald the lower part. Then we turn it over again and brew the top part.

After this, we insert the internal longitudinal boxes and, also stepping back 6 cm from the outer boxes, we grab them into the just welded transverse boxes.

The process is repeated again. We turn the slipway 180* and scald it. Then turn it over to the front side again and scald completely. (The vertical walls were also scalded in a horizontal position, because I cannot weld the vertical seams properly). Why am I saying this? Moreover, in a couple of days the slipway was winched up and down many times. Although it was probably worth making something like a rotating platform on 2 bases before doing this. It would make it easier. Anyway. The slipway is welded. What is a slipway without legs? No, it’s some kind of legless horse, and you won’t be able to attach anything to it. For the legs, I decided to use nuts, the largest ones I found in the store. I don’t remember, probably 24. Well, with them are bolts, 15 cm long, for future adjustment of the slipway in relation to the horizon. The nuts were welded at the corners of the slipway.

We are starting to manufacture devices for attaching a car to a slipway, as well as for pulling and pushing.

I made the clamping jaws before I started welding the slipway. I can’t advise you to make just these, because I haven’t handled a single patient on my “operating table” yet. I hope they won't let me down. I made them from 2 railway platforms for attaching rails to sleepers. Having cut it in half, I welded half of an old Soviet file onto each one. On the inside I welded camping dots, which I then turned into diamonds with the help of a grinder. On outer part I decided not to weld anything on so that the thresholds of cars with outside remained undamaged. I welded a plate onto the inner edge of the platform, approximately the thickness of the clamping jaw, so that when the jaws are tightened, the upper, clamping part does not warp, but evenly clamps the threshold flange.

For the manufacture of racks with clamps, on which the clamping jaws will be welded and on which the car will be installed, as well as devices for drawing, clamps and hooks, metal was purchased from a metal receiving machine with a thickness of 10 to 20 mm. To make the stands (let's call them paws), I used centimeter-sized metal, cutting it from the purchased area with the width about 20 cm and the length of the width of 2 channels and the gap. i.e. 36-38 cm, as well as vertical stands, 30 cm high .

The transverse jib reinforcements were cut from the same metal.

After welding the 2nd vertical post to the platform, I realized that it is not worth welding like this, because the platform itself bends from welding. Then I had to straighten the platform with a sledgehammer, placing it under the edges wooden blocks, and lower the vertical stand between the boxes of the slipway (although in this case the slipway had to be raised and placed on wooden blocks so that the stand did not reach the floor). But to be honest, it didn't help much. I had to weld their lower platforms together with tacks, clamping them with clamps and only after this weld the transverse gussets. I cooked the remaining 2 legs by immediately welding them together with potholders.

Then, from separately purchased KAMAZ (15 mm thick) fragments and scraps of springs, the upper clamps, 20-25 cm long, were cut out, with a slight offset from the center, holes were burned in them for KAMAZ bolts fastening the head to the cylinder block (16mm), that is, what I could quickly find, durable and not subject to deformation and thread failure. Pieces of 12th reinforcement are welded along the edges, for the same purposes as on the clamping jaws, so that there is no distortion when clamping. I used 20 mm as the embeds (the lower stops into which the bolts are inserted). a metal strip with holes that originally existed in it. I just had to cut them into pieces. 8 for paws and a few more for amplifiers. (You will understand later).

The next step there was welding of body clamps to the racks. No photo, but I'll try to explain.

First, the ready-made racks were screwed to the slipway, which was previously leveled. I screwed them approximately to the places on the slipway where they would subsequently stand. Having clamped all 4 paws, he measured one height with a level, to which the clamping jaws were welded, which were first tightened with clamps, welded, and then, after removing the paws from the slipway and laying them in a horizontal position, they were welded to the paws on all sides.

The dimensions of my paws are indicated above, the width of the jaws was taken arbitrarily, that is, based on the availability of material, and as I already wrote, the clamps were made from railway pads and welded file halves. Bolts for clamps 16. Holes in the jaws, previously temporarily welded together at the ends to maintain alignment, were drilled to drilling machine. But once again I want to focus your attention on the fact that all sizes are arbitrary and were taken with the expectation that there would be as little scrap as possible from the available metal. I think that sponges can and should be made with a width no less than mine, and preferably larger. There may need to be more bolts and, accordingly, holes for tightening the jaws and their diameter should also be larger. Or perhaps using factory clamps (which are commercially available) is even better, but this is again an expense.

The finished slipway is in front of you.
Well, that's all for today. Next time I will tell you how to make different devices and tools for slipway.

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What is a slipway?

If you are interested in stocks for body repair, then you should have an idea of what they are in principle. So, this is a special design that is used when your car has relevant damage. It allows, if possible, to completely restore the original appearance of the case using rigid fixation and uniform pressure. So, if the body of your car is dented in a road accident, then you should not be upset right away because you can still fix it. And stocks for body repair will help you with this. There is no difference here whether the structure will be installed in your garage or you contact a specialist who will provide you with the appropriate service. But first, you need to figure out what kinds of stocks there are in general, because there are several types of this repair equipment.

Platform slipway

When considering stocks for body repairs, you first need to pay attention to the platform version, since it is the most common, reliable, and most importantly, multifunctional. The fact is that this design can be used to make completely different bodies. If minor damage and dents appear, you can use such a slipway. And even if you have serious damage to your car, it will also work. Moreover, you can even correct the geometry of the machine frame, which is hardly possible with many other versions of this equipment. One of the most great benefits This type of slipway is the fact that they can be installed absolutely everywhere, regardless of the base on which the repairs will be carried out. The basis of the design is a platform to which the car is attached. This happens using special clamps, and then using the same platform, the directions and powers of the forces that will be applied to the places of deformation for alignment are set. This is exactly how the most common, one might say standard, workbench for body repair works. Photos of a similar design can be found everywhere, but you just need to go to any repair shop to find it there.

Mobile slipway

If you don’t have the time, desire or ability to install a full-fledged platform version, then you should pay attention to the mobile version. The drawing of a bench for body repair of this type will be very different from the previous one, because it performs slightly different tasks. Its main purpose is to quickly and efficiently repair minor body damage on the go. You don't have to install the platform first and then secure the vehicle to it to get it level. This can be done mobile. Naturally, you should pay attention to the fact that this option will not fix serious damage, so use it only when necessary operational repair on the run. If you want to create a homemade slipway for body repair yourself, then this is exactly the type that may be easier for you than others - you do not need to think about the conditions for installing the platform and securing the car.

Frame slipway

The most impressive of all is the frame slipway, which, unlike the platform model, can only be installed in specialized places where it is firmly attached. But its advantage is that you can set several different standard values and serve several different classes of cars at once. In this case, you will not need to make the settings again each time. So you collect several body posts, each with their own configuration, and use them to the cars you need, which is incredibly convenient and compensates for the fact that such a structure can only be installed in certain places. The dimensions of the slipway for body repair can vary even within the same type. So, the frame version may have different parameters, let alone the mobile version, which is not tied to specific characteristics.

Floor slipway

The floor stand for body repair is a partially mobile structure, which differs from a mobile one in that it cannot be used on the move. This means that it is not attached to any specific surfaces. It moves on miniature rails, allowing the structure to drive under any car for further repairs. In addition to rails, such a slipway may also include clamps and power racks. All this provides the possibility of comfortable repair and alignment of the body. But do not be deceived by the fact that such a slipway looks extremely compact - this is only its advantage, since in terms of functionality it is not inferior to other options and is suitable for carrying out a full

Mini slipway

And of course, one cannot help but recall the miniature slipway, which is used for quick repair minor damage. It does not require lengthy installation or setup, it applies instantly and can smooth out small dents on the body using up to ten tons of single-sided force. The damage that mini slipways can fix may not even be visible to the naked eye, but they can be easily identified when checking for wheel alignment. And it is then that such structures should be used.

Homemade slipway

These were all types of auto body repair jigs that you can find in specialty stores. But many people decide to assemble their own, homemade sample, so as not to spend money on purchasing finished equipment or service in repair shops. Accordingly, if you also decide to try your hand at such a design, then you will need the appropriate materials, and most importantly, a clear drawing with which you can assemble the slipway with your own hands. In this case, it is better not to use the first option that you find on the Internet. That is why the photo of him in this material and is not given. It’s better to use a drawing that has already been tested by other people, that is, they have already assembled a slipway with it and successfully used it. As mentioned above, it is best to choose those designs that do not have the most big sizes- you won’t be able to make a full-fledged frame version too early, so focus on mobile options, or even better, on mini-building stocks, which can also be very useful in life.

Of course, no one is going to question your design and engineering skills, but it is still recommended to contact a service station if you are experiencing problems with hull damage. High-quality and reliable equipment is installed there, and highly qualified specialists work who can fix all damage quickly and efficiently. For self-repair, as mentioned above, you can create your own mini-slipway.

From A to Z - everything about stocks for car body repairs. DIY slipway

Types of slipways

DIY making

Types of slipways

Making a slipway with your own hands: frame design

The final stage of work

More articles on the topic:

What is a slipway?

Platform slipway

Mobile slipway

Frame slipway

Floor slipway

Mini slipway

Homemade slipway

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