The floor is made of half the first wood. Do-it-yourself plank flooring, or how to make wooden floors in a private house

Floors in wooden houses should be reliable, warm, durable and beautiful. You can achieve the desired result yourself or with the involvement of professional builders. Information about the features of flooring in wooden house important in both cases. Firstly, because it will be required to carry out the work independently, and secondly, to control employees.

Process Features

Floors in a wooden house consist of several layers. And to ensure comfortable conditions residence, it is important to correctly determine the components of the floor “pie”.

The main element of the building structure for the floor is the strapping. For permanent buildings, it is usually made of powerful timber with cross-sectional parameters of at least 150 x 80 millimeters.

Often the timber is replaced with several boards securely connected to each other. Plank strapping is more stable. The boards are not subjected to the stresses that the timber experiences.

Products used for strapping must be pre-treated antiseptic. Used oils are often used as such. Oiled wooden parts do not rot and do not absorb moisture, so they last for many years. If there is no oil, use special products available in every hardware store.

To extend the service life of the harness, you need to lay waterproofing on the foundation. Usually this is roofing material folded in two layers.

The strapping requires installation of logs. These are wide, powerful boards that need to be strengthened on the edge. They, just like the harness, need to be treated with an antiseptic. The joists must first be carefully inspected and cracks, if any, must be repaired. Boards with big disadvantages It is better to replace with better ones.

In light buildings it is allowed to make prefabricated logs. For fastening components use special staples or pins. The docking points should be supported for greater reliability.

If the load is planned to be significant, it is better to strengthen the structure in advance. To do this, the cross-section of the logs is calculated, and their step is made small, from 60 centimeters.

The logs are hemmed with boards, on which a membrane is laid, preventing wind and moisture from penetrating into the room. Insulation is placed in the resulting cells. Depending on the chosen method, it can be either expanded clay or polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam or mineral wool. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier. Further actions depend on the preferences of the home owners. Any type of floor can be used as a finished floor. available options, including water heated floors.

Structure of the structure

It’s not enough to build a wooden house; you need to properly install utilities, such as:

• heating;
• water supply;
• sewerage;
• electrical wiring.

The abundance of engineering structures in the premises does not look aesthetically pleasing, so it is customary to hide them under the floor. The space between the joists allows you to hide most pipes If there is an underground or ground floor can be installed under the subfloor electric water heater, or you can equip a gas boiler room. The location of the water heater under the floor is especially important for a small shower.

When building a house, it is worth remembering that the wooden floor should be protected from water vapor. Modern building materials allow the structure to breathe and at the same time reliably protect it from moisture damage. Excellent insulation is obtained from isospan.

Izospan is used both when equipping the first floor and the second. It is laid under and above mineral insulation. Non-woven material Available in narrow rolls. When laying, individual parts should be overlapped and glued with a special double-sided tape. In places of contact with the joists, isospan is attached to them with a construction stapler.

The insulating layer is covered with a continuous flooring. Perhaps OSB plates are best suited for this purpose.

OSB boards widely used in housing construction. They are perfect for arranging floors in wooden houses. Oriented strand board floors are good as a base for wood flooring, parquet, linoleum, carpet and laminate. But you shouldn’t use OSB as a topcoat.

For laying on joists installed in 50 cm increments, 18 mm is considered a sufficient thickness of the plates. If the distance between adjacent logs is 10 cm greater, a greater thickness will be required - 20 mm. OSB boards made by pressing using a special adhesive composition. They are durable, do not rot or dry out. Floors laid according to OSB sheets, do not creak when walking.

Installation is done quickly because:

• does not require special skills;
• the sheets have the correct geometric shape, and no time is wasted on adjustment;
• one standard plate (2500 x 1250 mm) covers an area of ​​3.1 m2.

Types of floors

In private wooden houses, the type of floor depends on the method of covering. There are two options: concrete (reinforced concrete slab) or wood. On the second floor, the floors are usually made of wood, since heavier reinforced concrete slabs only increase the load on the foundation.

Inside the house you can equip any of modern options flooring: laminate, parquet, cork, tile and others.

Concrete floors are formed by pouring screed. In some cases, this option saves construction time. The screed is completely ready for further processing after a month. Raw wood requires drying, which takes much longer.

Concrete floors in wooden houses reduce the cost of finishing floors. A well-made screed can serve as a basis for finishing without additional layers and surface leveling.

If it is necessary to raise the floor to a certain height, light expanded clay is poured under the screed. This reduces the load on the base without increasing the thickness of the screed itself.

There is a high risk of cracking in a new home. cement screed due to shrinkage of the structure. There will be no serious damage, but heat loss is possible. Prevent Negative consequences possible by installing reliable insulation.

Concrete flooring is possible after calculations. As a rule, such a decision is made if the capital structure has a strip foundation.

The same is more suitable for a wooden house wooden floor . Wood is environmentally friendly and does not cause allergic reactions in residents: adults and children. Natural material is increasingly being used by owners of country houses, preferring it to brick and various blocks.

It is easy to cover a plank floor with boards on both sides. Secure fastening allows you to equip a “pie” of insulation, vapor and waterproofing. The multilayer structure can be made in the form of a floating floor. In this case, it will not have direct contact with the base and walls of the house.

Preparatory work

Regardless of whether on the foundation, the ground, screw piles or a structure is simply being erected on brick pillars, the arrangement of the floor begins with preparatory work.

First, prepare the walls by installing ventilation holes in them. Lack of air access to the underground will lead to rapid destruction of the wooden components of the structure.

The materials necessary for arranging the ceiling must be correctly calculated. A wood supply of 10-15 percent would also be useful.

Installation can begin when the bars and boards are sufficiently dry. When the humidity becomes normal, the material is inspected, sorted and treated with anti-rot and fungal agents.

Rough double-layer floors are made where the base is laid directly on open ground.

There are several ways to lay a floor on the ground. If you lower the floor to the minimum, you can compact the earth, lay out a bed of sand, gravel or expanded clay, and then fill it with concrete. True, this option is more suitable for the garage, and not for places intended for permanent residence of people.

In the lung country house, used for seasonal stay, the floor needs to be done differently. First you need to place brick pillars around the entire perimeter. It is very important to ensure that the surfaces of the supports have a uniform height (to the same horizon). Each support must be covered with a layer of roofing felt or roofing felt. A wooden lining 3 cm thick, treated with an antiseptic, should be placed on the waterproofing layer.

This entire structure is closed by beams, along which logs are placed with constant horizontal adjustments. The structure is finally fixed with fasteners. The floor is located on the joists if the production is carried out with a single flooring.

A double floor requires the installation of insulation, hydro- and vapor barriers, and, if necessary, other components between the rough and finished floors.

Laying methods

Rooms in a wooden house will acquire a presentable appearance, and staying in them will become truly comfortable if the flooring is in harmony with the walls. Homogeneous material will make the interior of the room holistic.

The choice of type of wood for the floor depends on:

• material opportunities;
• purpose of the premises;
• planned loads.

With an unlimited budget, choose the most beautiful, durable and dense materials from foreign countries. Exotic trees, growing in tropical forests, have unique properties. They withstand strong moisture, are easy to process, and are resistant to abrasion. In addition, boards made from such trees have beautiful colors. For example, merbau wood can be golden orange or reddish brown. Floor purple can be done if you use rosewood. And striped flooring is obtained when you buy very expensive zebrawood wood.

Boards made from coniferous species trees, including pine and spruce. From such floors the room is filled with substances useful to humans and pleasant aroma. The wood always remains warm, so it is pleasant to walk on the floor with bare feet.

For showers, baths and saunas, aspen and linden boards are required. They do not emit resin and are resistant to water and high temperatures.

On a veranda open to precipitation, the floor is best made of corrugated oak or larch boards.

The thickness of the floorboards must be selected taking into account the distance between adjacent joists. At a distance of 600 – 700 mm, a thickness of 40 mm is sufficient. If the spans are larger than the specified size, preference should be given to boards with a thickness of 50 mm. As for the width, it is set by the design project or the preferences of the owners.

If you decide to install the floors yourself, remember that it is inconvenient to lay wide boards alone. In addition, the larger the canvas, the greater its shrinkage. The results of this inevitable process may affect the quality of wood flooring. For this reason, it is better to take boards that are not wide and not too long.

One way to install a floor is to lay it staggered; in this method, the joints of the ends of the boards should not coincide in adjacent rows.

If plywood is used as a base, parquet boards glued with mastic or glue and additionally secured with self-tapping screws, as in the case of massive board. It is necessary to glue over the entire area, without voids.

In addition to the traditional straight form of installation, a diagonal one is used. Laying at an angle of 45° to the wall looks especially elegant in a spacious room.

Arrangement of the floor requires thorough preparation, quite a lot of time and physical effort. Despite this, many believe that it is possible self installation without the involvement of specialists and additional costs. Indeed, by showing persistence, observing step by step guide, you can do without outside help and save a lot of money.

If it is necessary to re-lay the floor, the worn-out finishing coating is removed, the condition of the underlay is checked and, if necessary, repaired. Logs that have flaws must be replaced, as well as other components of the base affected by rot or fungus. During overhaul Wet or caked insulation, as well as insulation, are replaced on floors.

If the lags in good condition, but begin to sag, you need to put a lining under them, for example, from lubricated parquet glue plywood.

Instead of expensive membrane films, glassine can be used as a moisture barrier.

When laying under the finishing coating is done with sheet building material (fibreboard, OSB, plywood), it is attached to the base with self-tapping screws. The fastening points must be located at a distance of at least 20 mm from the edge of the sheet with a pitch of about 150 mm. The screw caps should be recessed into the body by 3 mm. The resulting depressions should be filled with putty. Without putty, the finish at the attachment points will be negatively affected. And after some time, traces of poorly performed work will appear on it.

The construction of any house is a complex process that includes several stages. Among these stages, the process of constructing floors stands out separately. In wooden buildings, many people prefer wood floors. This decision is completely justified, because a country house requires closeness to the surrounding nature, so natural material will look most impressive compared to concrete screed and synthetic finishing coatings. The installation of a floor in a wooden house is characterized by its own characteristics, so the installation of a floor structure should be taken seriously. What kind of floor can be built in a private house?

Types of floors

According to experts, floors in a wooden house can be either concrete or wood, since these two materials are suitable for use in the construction of private houses. The floor in a log house can be made using heated floor technology - modern technologies allow this option to be implemented.

A concrete floor is a screed pour, which you can do yourself. Choosing this option for a floor in a wooden house in some cases allows you to save some time. It takes almost a month for the screed to completely dry, and installing a high-quality lumber floor from scratch may require even more time.

The advantages of concrete floors in log houses should include a reduction in the cost of work on finishing coverings. A properly made screed has a flat surface on which any finishing coating can be mounted. The ability to lay the coating on the screed without additional work to level the working base reduces work time and material costs. The screeding process itself is not technically complicated; you don’t need any special skills.

When installing floors in a wooden house made of concrete, it is necessary to take into account the possibility of cracking of the screed under the influence of vibrations of the walls of the structure. Cracks that form during the operation of a concrete floor will not lead to serious consequences, but they can increase heat loss. To ensure that heat loss remains at a minimum level, when installing a cement screed, it is recommended to carefully consider the installation of high-quality insulation.

The cement floor in a wooden house has another drawback: it itself presses with its weight on the foundation. Before construction work experts recommend making the necessary calculations so that during the operation of the house the foundation can withstand a heavy concrete screed. If you can’t handle this yourself, contact an experienced builder.

Another type of flooring in a wooden house is a covering made of the same wood. The advantages of such a floor design include environmental friendliness of the material and aesthetic appearance. Wood is a natural material that does not contain synthetic additives and does not emit harmful substances during use. human body substances. The appearance of the plank floor harmonizes perfectly with the building itself and its surroundings. For country house a cement floor, unlike wood, will seem superfluous, even foreign.

Modern means of protection wooden floors, which include various oils, varnishes and impregnations, allow not only to provide the floors in a wooden house with a long service life, but also a beautiful appearance in accordance with common interior rooms. During the work process, a wooden floor can be given the desired shade or its original texture and color can be emphasized. Natural wood provides a feeling of warmth and comfort in the room, helps create a comfortable atmosphere throughout the house.

The advantage of a plank floor is that it is easy to repair. If necessary, you can replace the damaged part yourself using standard set tools.

The disadvantages of wooden floors usually include high financial and labor costs. Installing a floor in a wooden house is quite difficult: a large amount of work is sometimes impossible to do alone. Achieving a perfectly flat surface at such a cost can be problematic.

Methods for installing wooden floors

Wood flooring can be made in country house three ways. The first method is used in cases where laying the floor in a wooden house does not involve installing load-bearing beams in the frame itself. The final wood covering will be a floating structure, not connected to the walls. This coating is assembled on support pillars.

The second and third methods of organizing wooden floors are used when the log house is assembled with the installation of load-bearing beams. Either a single or double plank floor is laid on a base of these beams. Installing a single-layer floor in a wooden house is not difficult even for a beginner. This method of installing the coating is easy to implement in practice, but is only suitable for houses that are used during the warm season. Single covering can be assembled at the dacha or in summer house, for buildings in which year-round living is planned, such a design is unacceptable.

For private home, built for living throughout the year, only a double wood floor is suitable. This design of floors in a wooden house consists of the installation of rough and finishing flooring, between which hydro- and heat-insulating materials are laid. The top finishing floor is usually assembled from tongue and groove boards.

How is a floor on supports made?

The construction of a floor on supporting columns begins with preparing the base. To do this it is necessary to remove upper layer soil, and then fill it with gravel, crushed stone or sand. The best option there will be a base of crushed stone, and on top of it - tightly compacted sand. Next, brick support pillars are placed on the base, for which standard red bricks are most often used. Laying the floor in a wooden house must be done taking into account all the basic requirements, therefore, when assembling the support posts, it is necessary to correlate their height and cross-section. The higher you raise the level of the support pillars, the larger their cross-section should be. For supports with a height of more than 25 cm, a width of two bricks is recommended.

The installation of support posts for floors in a wooden house begins from the perimeter of the room, after which they proceed to the installation of the same structures in the middle of the working surface. Roofing felt is laid on the ends of the supports, which acts as a waterproofing material. On top of it, wooden pads are mounted on the pillars, on which logs made of timber or logs are installed.

When installing a floor in a wooden house, the logs are placed at a certain distance from each other; the pitch between the logs depends on the width of the boards that are supposed to be used in the future. To prevent the sexual structure from moving in winter time Due to freezing of the soil, it is recommended to fill the space under the joists with slag. The embankment should not reach the log by about 5 cm - that air gap reserved specifically for ventilation processes.

The floor itself is laid on mounted logs, and it is recommended to place the boards in the direction of light from the windows or in the direction of movement. Experts advise starting the flooring 1.5 cm from the wall; such gaps around the perimeter of the floor in a wooden house are made specifically to ensure the required level of ventilation.

Long nails are used as fastenings for plank floors, which should be driven into the board at an angle. After painting works the nail heads will no longer be visible. Once the floor is completely assembled, temporary baseboards are attached to opposite sides of the room. When laying floors in a wooden house, the slots of these skirting boards are used as buffer zones, necessary until the wood dries completely. When the lumber is completely dry, these skirting boards can be replaced with conventional structures. To understand the procedure for carrying out installation work to create a floor on supports, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the photos depicting each stage of the process.

Single plank covering

A single floor can be implemented on a structure made of support pillars. In this case, beams are attached to the support posts, and a covering of tongue-and-groove boards is laid on top of the beams. Such a floor in a wooden house fully corresponds to the above-described structure, assembled on support posts.

There is another option for single flooring: when the covering is mounted on beams embedded in load-bearing walls. In such a situation, there is no need to build brick supports. The role of the working base will be performed by load-bearing beams. Since the distance between them is usually very large, before working on the plank flooring, a sheathing of joists should be constructed.

The design of the floor involves the use of timber with a side square section 5-6 cm. In a wooden house, the pitch between the logs is determined by the thickness of the final covering board. The thicker the tongue and groove board, the larger the pitch between the joists can be. When installing the sheathing, experts recommend constantly monitoring the evenness of its surface. Only a well-assembled sheathing will allow you to lay a smooth plank covering without any problems.

When the logs are assembled and secured with nails, you can proceed to the installation of the single flooring itself. The flooring can serve as both a rough and a finishing coating. If you are not going to additionally lay a decorative covering in the form of linoleum or other material on the floors in a wooden house, then the boardwalk will be considered finished. After completing all work, it is recommended to cover the finished surface with several layers of protective varnish.

If you cover the wood floor with any other material, it will actually act as a subfloor. To install the rough coating, it will be enough to use unedged material.

Installation of single floors on support columns or on a lathing made of logs is quite simple to do with your own hands. This coating is done quickly and easily, and does not require significant costs. The disadvantage of single-layer floors in a wooden house is their low degree of thermal insulation. In winter, the soil in the underground room will freeze. In the case of using support pillars, this can cause displacement of the brick pillars and the coating itself. A single floor can be used either for houses that involve living in the summer, or if there is heating in the cold season.

Double flooring

Double flooring in a wooden house can be recognized optimal solution subject to year-round residence in the countryside. This coating is called double, as it consists of two mandatory layers - rough and finishing. How is installation carried out?

First, a rough covering is assembled on the beams from unedged lumber up to 0.45 cm thick. Since this floor layer is located at the bottom, when arranging it you can save on the purchase of materials. It is not necessary to use expensive boards for the subfloor in a wooden house; slab or low-grade materials are suitable here. This does not mean that the rough layer can be made of poor quality. For it, it is recommended to choose boards of coniferous trees, and also pre-impregnate them with antiseptic solutions.

The rough covering boards should lie close to each other. When this layer of construction is ready, it is necessary to lay thermal insulation material on top of it. Mineral wool, polystyrene foam, expanded clay, sawdust or others are suitable for these purposes. modern views insulation materials.

Installing a floor in a wooden house necessarily includes not only the placement of insulation material, but also a layer of waterproofing. All these structural components provide the future coating with a long service life. The finishing coating is installed after laying the thermal insulation; a gap of 1.5 cm should be left between these two layers. The boards are fastened in the same way as when constructing other types of floors.

On ready double floors In a wooden house, you can lay a finishing coating, and also use the finishing layer of the structure itself as decoration. To do this, the wood must be treated with protective varnishes or other special compounds with a tint effect.

A wooden house is associated with comfort and warmth. Natural wood materials create a special atmosphere, they are safe for health. At the same time, wood requires special care and compliance with operating requirements. Construction of a floor in a wooden house also requires a special approach. Let's look at how you can do this correctly.

Floor requirements

A properly laid floor in a wooden house must satisfy such parameters as practicality and durability. It needs to be made warm and even. Its aesthetic appearance plays an important role. If we lay the floor with additional insulation, we must not forget that in this case it will be necessary to raise it.

To lay the floor with your own hands in accordance with these requirements, you need to determine the order of work, take everything into account individual characteristics operation and construction of the building.

The whole process can be divided into several stages:

• Considering Properties various designs gender;
• Study of the installation process depending on the selected type;
• Construction and installation of the selected type of structure.

The most common types of flooring in a wooden house are concrete, plywood or laid on joists. Using joists or concrete screed, you can raise the floor level. In the photo you can see how the floor looks using different materials.

Please note: Regardless of the type chosen, you can equip it with a heated floor system. This will be very useful when year-round accommodation in the house. Such designs also allow you to raise the floor level.

Features of concrete floor

• Minimum time spent on work, compared to a full floor made of wood materials;
• Cost reduction;
• To build a concrete floor with your own hands, no special construction skills are required. It is enough to fill the screed in accordance with the level. The result is a leveled surface on which any floor covering can be laid.

The disadvantages include:

• There is a noticeable load on the foundation, so preliminary calculations should be made to avoid problems in this area;
• Small vibrations can cause cracks to appear in the concrete surface, which can lead to heat loss.

Features of wood construction

Wooden base, like any other, has its advantages and disadvantages. The advantages include:

• safety for health, the tree does not emit any hazardous substances;
• you can design any design structure;
• if necessary, all work can be carried out with available tools and materials.

We must not forget that in order for the floor in a wooden house to last for many years, it must be laid in compliance with all requirements and recommendations. This will prevent the floor from sagging, because then you will either have to replace the floor or be puzzled by the question of how to raise it.

The disadvantages include:

• complexity of installation;
• high price;
• duration of work;
• difficulty in leveling the structure.

What is the construction of a wooden floor?

To correctly lay the floor with your own hands, you should take into account that its structure consists of a subfloor, a layer of thermal and waterproofing, a finished floor and a floor covering.

The design can be double-layered or single-layered. If we install the second method, then there may be no lag. Their presence or absence is determined by the thickness of the boards and the distance between the beams.

Sometimes it happens that a wooden structure shifts under the influence of various factors, which leads to deformation of the subfloor. When constructing a multilayer structure, the upper layers are kept stationary.

If there are support pillars, as well as in cases where beams are inserted into house walls, it is necessary to lay the logs in the correct order.

How to make flooring using logs?

You can lay a subfloor in a wooden house with your own hands using one of two options:

• on the logs;
• using floor beams.

Logs allow you to raise the floor level, so it is not always rational to use them in rooms with a low ceiling. They are attached either on top of the foundation or to the walls of the log house. Before placing the material, the logs should be brought into the room in order to acclimatize them, where they should remain for several days.
Stelem as follows:

• We place two of them along opposite walls and connect them using nylon threads; they should be placed at a distance of one and a half meters from each other. These threads will be used as guides to which the remaining joists will be attached. The space between the joists is filled with a layer of insulation;
• When thick boards of 30 or 40 cm are used, you can make the distance between the lags up to 0.8 m. When the boards are less than 30 cm thick, the distance between the lags needs to be reduced to 0.5-0.6 m. When the boards are thicker than 40 cm, the distance can reach 1 m;
• Using wedges made of chipboard or fiberboard, you can level the floor surface by adjusting the height of the logs. Such wedges are secured with self-tapping screws or long nails;
• When it is intended to fasten the logs on top of a concrete base, the fastening can be done with dowels or anchors. In no case should we forget about treating lags with an antiseptic composition;
• The next step is to lay and strengthen the boards. The first row is fastened with a 1.5-centimeter distance from the walls. Pre-drilling of holes for self-tapping screws is required;
• Lay the boards on each of the joists and then secure them. The gaps that remain between the walls and the floor made of boards are closed with baseboards. You can also use staples; they are connected to the boards and secured with nails. In the video you can see how this process is carried out.

If fiberboard or chipboard is chosen as the base for the floor

By using this method You can also raise the floor with your own hands in a wooden house. In order to lay the subfloor, you can choose plywood, chipboard or fiberboard. This material is characterized by reliability, strength, and does not lend itself to deformation. In addition, if necessary, materials such as fiberboard or chipboard can be easily dismantled and replaced.

The layout of the sheets must be previously thought out and marked. Then, in accordance with the markings, lay the lags. In the photo you can see an example of such a scheme.

To lay the floor flat, you can use beacons. To do this, you need to install them on the entire floor surface. For these purposes, the entire area of ​​the room is divided into squares of 30-40 cm, into the corners of which self-tapping screws are screwed. To install beacons you will need a level. After this, you can lay the logs, which will later be covered with chipboard or fiberboard.

The thickness of the chipboard or fiberboard sheets determines the distance between the logs. In general, it is no more than 40 cm. When boards are installed across the beams, they should be fastened at a distance of half a meter from each other.

To prevent sagging logs, you can also make substrates from pieces of chipboard or fiberboard, which must first be lubricated with parquet glue. Impregnating the entire floor surface with glue will prevent cracking. Between the logs and sheets of chipboard, fiberboard or plywood we make a layer of moisture-proof material.

It is desirable that all edges of the sheets used fall on the logs, and the sheets of chipboard (fibreboard) themselves are laid at a distance of a couple of millimeters from each other, this is necessary in case of deformation of the material. The joints must be sanded to level the surface. In the video you can see how to lay sheets of plywood (chipboard, fiberboard or other material).

Making a finished floor

It is best to lay a finished floor with your own hands using tongue and groove boards (pictured below). They imply a convenient connection with each other. When one board is attached to the previous one using a special lock.

You can adjust the boards to each other using a mallet by tapping them. You can fasten the board to the joists with long nails, which should be driven in at a slight angle, recessing the nail head into the board.

The finished floor, made of tongue and groove boards, must be sanded and coated with varnish or paint.

The arrangement of the finished floor with tongue and groove boards is suitable for both double and single construction. The double will certainly be much warmer. She should be given preference when living year-round in a wooden house. A diagram of this design can be seen in the photo.

How to lower the floor?

Owners of old houses often have to deal with the problem of low ceilings. To increase the space with your own hands, it is best to raise the ceiling. If this is not possible, the floor surface can be lowered.

Wooden floors allow you to retain heat in your home using minimal technical and material means. It is thanks to this feature that such floors have remained and remain the most widespread throughout their centuries-old history and do not yield their leadership even to the most modern high-tech flooring and coverings.

Floors made from high-quality wood, with proper care, retain their performance characteristics centuries, are relatively inexpensive, universal (they can be installed on any type of base), harmless to the human body and look very impressive. If necessary, they themselves can serve as the basis for installing floors of a different type. Besides, wooden floors They are quite easy to install and can be installed in a private house or apartment by just one person.

General principles of wood flooring

Directly genital boards are always laid on joists, but the logs themselves can be laid either on a concrete or even earthen base, or on supports - usually brick, wooden or metal pillars. Rarely, but still used is a technology in which the ends of the joists are embedded in opposite walls or laid on specially provided ledges near the walls and operated without intermediate supports. However, in this case it is very difficult to cover wide spans - very large logs are required. large section and weight, and it’s almost impossible to install them correctly alone...

Installation of wooden floors concrete base practically no different from installing floors in an apartment with floors made of reinforced concrete slabs. The situation is much more complicated with installation of flooring on the first floor of a private house, since in this case it is highly desirable to arrange a ventilated and DRY underground. Its presence largely determines the strength and durability of the finished floor, especially in cases of high groundwater.

A few words about the instrument

The chosen method of installing the floor determines what tools you will need for the job. But in any case, you can’t do without:

• laser level; as a last resort, you can use a hydraulic level, but you will need an assistant to work with it;
• a regular or cross construction bubble level with a length of at least 1 meter; a cross level is preferable, as it allows you to align the plane simultaneously in two directions;
• a hammer weighing no more than 500 g;
• chain saw or circular saw, or a good hacksaw.
• jointer and/or grinder.

It wouldn’t be amiss to have a regular one carpenter's tool– a square, a small axe, a plane, a chisel, a nail puller.

Floor installation on support pillars

Traditionally, a wooden floor is assembled from the following “layers” (from bottom to top):

• the basis of the entire flooring is logs;
• rough (“bottom”) floor;
• waterproofing layer;
• thermal insulation layer;
• directly wooden floor (finish flooring);
• finishing floor covering.

This entire multi-layer “sandwich” is usually supported by supporting pillars - concrete, brick, wood or metal.

Installation of brick pillars

The best choice today is brick pillars, which have acceptable strength characteristics, are quite affordable from a financial point of view and do not require special labor costs during construction. The only limitation is the height of such support pillars should not exceed 1.5 m; if it is larger, in order to maintain the strength of the supports, their cross-section will have to be increased, which will lead to a sharp increase in the required amount of brick and, accordingly, an increase in material costs for construction. For columns with a height of up to 50-60 cm, a section of 1x1 brick is sufficient; for a height of 0.6-1.2 m, the section is made of at least 1.5x1.5 bricks; for columns up to 1.5 m high, at least 2x2 bricks are laid out.

Anyway under brick supports it is necessary to pour concrete “nickels”, the area of ​​which exceeds the cross-sectional area of ​​the columns by at least 10 cm in each direction. The distance between the centers of the sites is selected within 0.7-1 m ALONG the logs and 0.8-1.2 m BETWEEN logs with a section of 100...150x150 mm. After marking, holes about half a meter deep are dug in the places where the pillars are erected; the main thing is that the bottom should be below the fertile layer of the earth. At the bottom of these mini-pits, a sand and gravel “pillow” is made, onto which it is poured concrete mixture. It is desirable that the surface of the resulting “penny” be several centimeters above ground level.

It is at the stage of laying out the support pillars the horizontality of the future floor is laid, and it is at this stage that it is best to use laser level. With its help, the level of the LOWER EDGE OF THE JOINT plus 1 cm is marked on the walls, a construction cord is stretched between the opposite walls along this level, and the height of the pillars is adjusted according to its level. It is not at all necessary to extend it strictly to the millimeter - a gap of a couple of centimeters is quite acceptable. When calculating the total thickness of the floor, it should be taken into account that at least its upper plane must be higher than the level of the building’s basement - otherwise it will be extremely difficult to avoid “cold bridges”.

Some features of support pillars

It is worth providing in them availability of fastenings for joist beams. Typically, vertical “studs” with threads embedded in 10-20 cm depth are used as such fasteners or anchor bolts– subsequently drilled into the joists in appropriate places through holes, with which the beams are “put on” the resulting pins, and are attracted by nuts and washers. The protruding excess threads are cut off with a grinder.

The side surfaces of the columns and, especially, their upper plane, on which the logs will be laid, preferably cover with a layer of durable plaster– it will further strengthen the structure and play the role of additional waterproofing. Lay on the surface of the finished columns 2-3 layers of small pieces of roofing felt.

After the masonry mortar has completely dried and hardened (this takes about a week), logs can already be laid on the finished support pillars.

Laying logs on brick columns

The length of the joists is selected depending on the floor design. When laying on support pillars, there are only two options for such structures - “floating” and rigid.

Floating or hard floors?

In the first case, the entire “sandwich” of the floor lies and is supported solely by posts, without being rigidly tied to the walls or. In the second, the ends of the joists are rigidly attached to the walls in one way or another; This design practically eliminates the “walking” of the flooring, but when the building settles, it may well lead to deformation of the finished floors.

With a “floating” floor option, the length of the joists is 3-5 cm less than the distance from wall to wall. In the second case, the gap should be no more than 2 cm - otherwise it will be difficult to firmly attach the logs to the walls. If necessary, logs can be made from two or more pieces, connecting them into “half-legs” - but the joint must be on the support post and be nailed or (for lag cross-sections up to 10x100 mm) screwed with self-tapping screws.

If the final length of the logs is less than three meters, then they can be laid directly on the supports (not forgetting about the waterproofing gaskets made of roofing felt!); however, it is much better to place flat pieces of board 25-50 mm thick between the roofing felt and the lower plane of the joist beam. In the case of joint joists, this must be done!

Alignment of logs

After laying the logs on the prepared support pillars, they must be “aligned” according to the level. This is done as follows: using thin wooden spacers the two outer beams are laid strictly horizontally, according to a pre-calculated and marked height level. Spacers are currently used only on the outer support pillars; for now, you can ignore the intermediate ones. The ends of the exposed logs are nailed to the walls; In the case of “floating” floors, this fastening will be temporary.

On both sides, at a distance of 0.3-0.5 m from the walls, along the upper planes of tightly laid joists The construction cord is stretched. All other intermediate beams are derived from it; then, if necessary, spacers are installed between the remaining posts and joists. ALL gaskets must be RIGIDLY tied (nailed) to the joists, and, if possible, to the support posts. The beams must lie tightly on the pillars; in extreme cases, gaps of no more than 2 mm are allowed - but not on adjacent pillars.

Subfloor

After laying the joists, a subfloor is made. To do this, a narrow beam (“skull” beam) is nailed along the entire length of the lower cut of the log on each side. Untreated boards with a length equal to the distance between the logs are laid on it between the lags. After laying, these boards are completely covered with a vapor barrier film, onto which insulation is applied or poured. From above, everything is completely covered with a windproof fabric.

Underfloor ventilation

When installing a floor on brick pillars in underground space ventilation must be provided– forced (with a large cubic capacity of the underground) or natural. A mandatory element of such ventilation is the so-called "produkhi": through holes in or walls located below floor level. Such openings must be located around the entire perimeter of the building and under internal partitions, the distance between them should not exceed 3 m.

The dimensions of the vents are usually chosen 10x10 cm, the center of the hole should be at a height of 0.3-0.4 m from the ground level (above the thickness of the winter snow cover). It is imperative to provide for the possibility of shutting off the vents in winter. In addition, in order to protect against rodents, the ventilation openings are covered with a fine-mesh mesh.

When if the underground is not too deep(no more than 0.5 m) and the installation of vents is difficult, ventilation holes are made in the floor itself - usually in the corners. These openings are covered with decorative grilles and must always be open.

How to lay floors correctly

Before laying the floorboards, the insulation is covered with a windproof cloth. The choice of board depends on what exactly the surface of the finished floor will be. If it is intended to be natural, a tongue-and-groove floorboard (with a lock) will be required; if you are laying linoleum or laminate, you can get by with a regular edged board. BUT IN ANY CASE, THE WOOD MUST BE WELL DRYED!

Attach the tongue and groove board to the joists

The first board is placed with a gap of 1-1.5 cm from the wall, and not close to it, with the tenon to the wall. The next boards are pressed against the previous ones using some kind of stop (clamps, for example) and a pair of wooden wedges. Boards, especially if they are thicker than 25 mm, are nailed - self-tapping screws are not suitable in this case, they do not attract the board well to the upper surface of the log. The specified gap of 1-1.5 cm must be maintained along the entire perimeter of the room. The existing joints of the ends of the floorboards must be placed in a checkerboard pattern.

Final finishing of the laid floor

After laying the floorboard, the floor is ready for finishing treatment, which consists of grinding (scraping) and coating with paint or varnish. It is almost impossible to do this manually - you should use an electric jointer or grinder. After this very dusty procedure, it is recommended that all “opened” Treat cracks and crevices between boards with wood putty, made on the basis of drying oil. The last operation before painting is to attach the baseboard around the perimeter of the room.

The sanded surface is painted or coated with varnish, for example, yacht varnish; Modern paints and varnishes make it possible to imitate almost any type of wood or material surface. Usually at least two layers of coating are applied; a paint roller and a good respirator are used for the job. If you want to get a matte rather than glossy floor surface, you can use wax or oil.

Each of us dreams of building a spacious house, in solitude with nature. And of course this house should be made of natural and natural materials. A wooden house is perfect for a quiet and relaxing stay. When building a wooden house, the main thing is to pay special attention to the floor structure.

In order not to disturb the harmony, beauty and naturalness, the floors should also be made of wood. Many people know that houses made of wood have a healing and beneficial effect.

The floor structure must be reliable and have effective protection from heat loss from the house. Today we will look at floor designs in a wooden house.

Floor characteristics

Regardless of what the house is built from, the floor must have the following characteristics:

It should also be taken into account that the load on the floor, first or basement floor should be calculated from an average value of 2100 Newtons per 1 square meter.

Types of floors

For wooden houses, the two most common types of floors used are concrete and wood. Now we will look at the pros and cons of each.

• Concrete floor. The advantages include the speed of the process, especially if you have a concrete mixer. Insignificant price, which is the cost of sand and cement.

The ability to do the work with your own hands, without professional skills. With all these advantages, we get a finished, flat surface a month after the concrete screed has completely dried.

The disadvantages include the large mass of the floor, which puts pressure on the foundation. Not suitable for every type of foundation; it requires careful calculation of the load on the foundation and soil.

And secondly, since our house is made of wood, vibrations of the walls occur (narrowing - expansion), this has a bad effect on the concrete surface, stress zones, chips, and cracks appear.

• Wooden floor. The advantages include the fact that wood is an environmentally friendly material. Floors made of wood in a wooden house are harmony, naturalness and sophistication.

Not required when performing work special devices. The disadvantages are slightly greater than those of concrete floors. The main disadvantage is the cost (high).

The second drawback is the complexity of the installation technology; assistants will be required. It may be necessary to involve specialists, which means additional costs. When laying a finished floor, it is difficult to achieve a perfectly flat surface. Strict adherence to the technology of the floor installation process.

Installation of a wooden floor in a wooden house

We have described the pros and cons of two types of floors. With a concrete floor everything is clear. Moreover, a wooden house should have a wooden floor.

Unedged boards or sheets of multi-layer plywood, chipboard, are usually used for arranging a subfloor. And if it is used for arranging a finished floor, then a decorative floor covering is placed on top of it.

Glued laminated timber or seam board is used as a finished floor. After installation they paint or varnish.

Floor designs

Flooring is divided into two types.

The structure of such a floor looks like this:

• Rough floor.
• Waterproofing.
• Insulation.
• Air bag.
• Finish floor.
• Decorative floor covering.

Foundation preparation

Choosing a foundation is always a difficult and controversial choice. Price policy different. Since a wooden house is a lightweight structure up to 14-17 tons, the foundation should be selected accordingly.

Some people place houses directly on the ground or add a 10-20 cm layer of crushed stone. This is done in places where there is no groundwater and the ground does not creep.

Lay 2 layers of waterproofing on the ground (roofing felt, polyethylene film), then the logs are laid. This type of foundation is suitable for small seasonal houses with a single floor.

The most common is, of course, a concrete foundation. He can be belt type, more cheap way or poured in one piece (slab), a more expensive method.

Concrete foundations are usually reinforced with a reinforcement belt. This is long term and reliable foundation, both for a wooden house and for a brick one.

The next option is support posts. The site on which the house is going to stand is cleared of soil to a depth of approximately 50 cm. The formation of the cushion is carried out using a layer of sand and gravel.

Each layer should be approximately 20-30 cm. We compact everything thoroughly. Then we lay out columns of brick or asbestos pipes filled with concrete.

The pillars are placed around the perimeter and inside the house at intervals of 90-100 cm, maintaining one level. We lay waterproofing on the pillars, then a 3 cm board around the entire perimeter - this is the lining. The beams are placed on it.

And in Lately Pile foundations have become popular. Everyone just buys ready-made piles of a given diameter, they are screwed into the ground to one level.

After this, a frame for the walls and floor is built. This type of foundation is ideal for places where there is close groundwater or moving soil, since piles can be buried to different depths and make the foundation strong and reliable.

Single-layer floor installation

The choice of foundation is yours. Supports, piles, soil or a concrete surface on which I lay thick beams must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material.

It is advisable to buy beams from coniferous trees. As was said above, everything wooden elements treated with special compounds.

The logs are usually laid on top of the beams at the locations of the supports, the main thing is to maintain the same level.

The distance between the lags should be 60-80 cm if you have a floor board 4 cm thick or more. And if the thickness of the board is 3 cm, then the distance is best to choose 50-60 cm.

We lay a plank floor on the logs placed at one level. We place the first board from the wall at a distance of 10-15 mm. This gap must be left for natural ventilation.

Subsequently, this hole will be closed with a plinth. To create decorative beauty, it is better to lay floor boards parallel to the rays of light from the window. We use nails to fasten the boards.

Purchase nails taking into account that their length should be twice as long as the thickness of the boards. Drive nails at an angle of 30-45 degrees. Don't forget to recess the hats.

Then, when all the boards are secured, all the holes from the caps are sealed with wood putty. After the putty has dried, you can begin painting and varnish work. Installation of skirting boards is done around the entire perimeter.

A permanent plinth is nailed to the two opposite walls, and a temporary plinth is nailed to the other two opposite walls, which have gaps left, with a gap of 10 mm from the wall. In 2-3 weeks, at the expense of natural convection the floor will dry completely, and the temporary skirting boards can be replaced with permanent ones.

As mentioned above, this type of floor is used in unheated, small houses. And in winter, the ground under the house freezes and the pillars become deformed, which directly affects the functionality of the floor.

To eliminate this effect as much as possible, the underground space is covered with slag, leaving 4-6 cm to the floor for an air cushion.

Double floor device

This floor has the structure of a multi-layer cake. The design of the beams and joists remains as described above. Only in the lower part of the lag we fill the bars along the entire length and on both sides.

These bars are called cranial bars. A subfloor is attached on top of these bars. The floor is usually made of unedged boards 2-4 cm thick. All wooden elements must be processed by special means. Boards should be fastened with minimal gaps.

After the subfloor is completely assembled, a vapor barrier and waterproofing materials. This is often a 200 micron thick polyethylene film.

But you can also use other materials, such as parchment paper, roofing felt and modern membrane films. The material is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm and the seams are taped with construction tape.

Then insulation is placed on top of the waterproofing layer. In the past, mixtures were actively used: clay + sawdust or clay + straw. Expanded clay has proven itself well, rodents do not eat it, it does not lose its shape and volume.

But in the age high technology the market offers big choice materials for insulation. Ecowool, polystyrene foam, isolon, mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. This is not the entire list, but only those that are popular.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. The main difference is in price and characteristics. The choice of insulation is up to you. After you have purchased the insulation, lay it between the joists.

We lay a layer of waterproofing on top of the insulation, leaving 3-5 cm to the bottom edge of the finished floor, as natural ventilation of the subfloor.

If you plan to have a “warm floor” system, then pipes or wires should be laid on top of the insulation. They should not be covered with a layer of waterproofing material.

We lay the finished floor on top of this “pie”. Tongue and groove boards are ideal for finishing a finished floor. The principle of assembling the boards is similar to laminate, each subsequent board is inserted into the groove of the previous one, and fastening occurs with nails at an angle.

If in the first method we talked about the ventilation gap, which is located along the walls, then here we will talk about the ventilation gap, which is located in two opposite corners of the room.

These gaps can have the shape of a square, a circle measuring about 5 cm. After the floor is covered with all the boards, the ventilation gaps are decorated with grilles.

The gratings must be moved out by 5 mm. above the floor level so that liquid does not get into the insulation. tongue and groove board, sanded and varnished. There is no need to use a finishing coating on top of such a floor. But if you wish, you can lay carpet, linoleum, laminate and others.

Remember that ventilation holes should also be left in the base. They close only in winter.

Conclusion

We examined all the nuances of the floor structure in a wooden house. I hope our article will help you find correct solution and approach to floor arrangement.

We should not forget that wood is a natural material that requires care and treatment with special means.

The flooring process requires care, accuracy and adherence to instructions. You can do the installation work yourself.