Planting and caring for trees. Iris reticulum mixed planting and care in open ground

The reticulated iris is significantly smaller in size than ordinary rhizomatous irises. It reaches 15 cm in height. Small decorative irises are popular due to their bright colors, original flower shape and ability to grow without much effort.

Landing

The photo of the reticulated iris looks very attractive, but to achieve such decorative flowers, you need to make some effort. First, choose a suitable place to grow flowers. The soil should be light, nutritious and drained. Avoid growing irises in areas that are close to leakage. groundwater, because plants do not tolerate stagnant moisture.

Source: Depositphotos

Iris reticulum is one of the first spring plants

The landing rules are:

• Inspect carefully planting material. Throw away any rotten or damaged bulbs.
• Loosen the soil and add compost to it.
• Prepare the wells. Make holes about 10 cm deep. The distance between the holes should be at least 10 cm. Place flower blanks in the holes.
• Once irises are planted in the ground, they do not need watering. The moisture already contained in the soil is quite sufficient.

The optimal time for planting is early autumn, that is, a period approximately 3 weeks before the onset of the first frost. If desired, planting can be done in the spring, but in this case flowering will begin only after a year.

Care

Successful planting is only the beginning of iris development. To make them happy with abundant and bright flowering, follow the basic rules for caring for flowers:

• During the period of bud formation, make sure that the soil is kept moist.
• In summer, plants need to be kept warm and dry, so reduce watering to 1-3 times a month. If the summer is humid with heavy rainfall, cover the bed with film.
• Before the onset of cold weather, insulate the ground with leaves.
• During the growing season, add compost or humus to the soil.

These are the basic rules of care; the iris does not need anything more. Therefore, flowers are often used in landscape design, because growing them is easy and pleasant, and the bright result is impressive.

Irises successfully coexist with others small flowers, for example, with crocuses or scyllas. Also, these plants get along with ornamental perennials that have a small root system.

So, the reticulated iris is not a capricious and demanding plant. Subject to simple rules positive results can be achieved quite quickly.

Read also: growing perennial eustoma

One of the most beautiful and most romantic plants is the Dutch bulbous iris. Planting and caring for it is a little troublesome, but it will more than pay off in beautiful blooming flowerbed. Outwardly, it somewhat resembles a tropical butterfly, perched on a stalk in order to rest and then fly around the world. Thanks to its beauty, the iris instantly captivated gardeners. Almost no flower bed can do without it.

Description and varieties

Let's take the Dutch iris (Iris Hollandica) as a basis.

First, let's move away from the topic and mention that heat-loving irises have three main varieties:

Dutch iris is a xyphium, and belongs to hybrid varieties Dutch category, bred in the country of the same name. In flower shops they are sold in the form of bulbs covered with multiple layers of scales. In adult form, the height of the plant is on average 0.6 m, but it all depends on the variety. For example, in the Dutch Blue Diamond, Casablanca, Blue Magic and others iris, the height varies between 0.45-0.7 m.

If you plant irises in places inaccessible to the wind, they will not need supports.

The plant itself is winter-hardy. However, in severe frosts they need to be covered with something to prevent freezing. Irises are widely used. They not only decorate garden beds and flower beds, but are also grown for cutting to create bouquets and flower arrangements.

The flowering of the Dutch iris (photos below) occurs in last week May and continues until early June. As for the spectrum of shades of buds, they can be very diverse, from white and blue to orange and purple. After flowering, the plant begins to dry out the foliage, and by the end of August it dries completely.

Dutch bulbous iris: planting

In principle, planting bulbous irises is identical to root ones. But there are still a number of nuances that must be strictly followed:

1. The growing season of bulbous irises is quite short. Flowering occurs late, towards summer, and quickly stops. Therefore, it is important to choose the right material for planting. In this case, you should pay attention to the golden color of the bulbs, the absence of dark spots or soft zones. The development of the plant and its condition depend on the correct choice.
2. Before planting, flower bulbs must be dipped in a fungicide solution and kept there for several hours. This procedure protects it from rotting in the ground. Afterwards, the aged onion is thoroughly dried.
3. Bulbous Dutch iris is planted in the spring.
4. The soil in the flower bed or in the place where the irises will be planted should be plowed in advance, and then disinfected with potassium permanganate (just water it). This will help get rid of germs and bacteria that can harm the bulb and destroy the plant.
5. The bulbs are planted when roots begin to appear. At the same time, they are planted to a depth of 10-15 cm, maintaining a distance of 15 cm between specimens. This distance will ensure good development and growth of the plant and will not allow them to shade each other in a group with each other.
6. The planted bulbs are sprinkled with soil and watered well.

Basic rules for caring for bulbous Dutch iris

In order for the plant to develop without complications and enjoy flowering for a long time, you should follow a number of rules for caring for flowers.

Lighting

Irises are light-loving plants, so for planting you need to choose dry and well-lit places. But at the same time, they need to be protected from direct sunlight. Ideal place for a flower bed, partial shade with sufficient illumination.

The soil

As for the substrate, nutritious and loose soil is important for irises. In this case, its pH should be alkaline or neutral. If the indicators are different or the clay substrate predominates in the area, then adding sand to prevent water stagnation, as well as adding slaked lime to adjust the pH to the required value, will help correct the situation.

Irises prefer loose soil, so after planting, loosening should be carried out regularly. 1-2 times/week will be enough.

Watering

Since irises are very sensitive to waterlogging of the soil (this leads to rotting of the roots and further death of the entire bulb), before planting you need to take care good drainage so that the water can “go away” and not accumulate at the planting site.

Russia is characterized by rainy seasons, so after flowering the bulbs are recommended to be dug up, dried and placed in a dry place for storage.

Top dressing

The plant also does not tolerate exposure to any chemicals. Therefore, you need to be very careful with fertilizing. It is better to opt for compost or humus, in the amount of 1 bucket/m2. After planting the bulbs, the plants can be “fed” with wood ash.

Stores often sell iris Dutch mix. Planting and caring for such bulbs is identical. Only the color of the buds will be a “surprise” for you.

Now you know how and when to plant Dutch irises. Compliance with all the rules will allow you to grow amazingly beautiful plants and revive bright colors your site.

Video about bulbous irises

Choosing plants for a flower bed has long ceased to be a problem - they are sold in stores, nurseries and markets. great amount seeds, seedlings and bulbs. The main thing is to decide on the composition of the flower bed and select the necessary palette. Every florist is like an artist. But it’s not broad strokes that create beauty. oil paints, but delicate flower buds.

The Dutch iris can be a win-win option for decorating large and small flower beds. This is a bulbous plant with large beautiful flowers unusual shape.

What does an iris bulb look like?

We are talking about a perennial herbaceous plant with an elongated bulb instead of a rhizome. The bulb itself is a modified and shortened underground shoot that resembles a bud. With a vertical cut from top to bottom, in the middle part of the bulb you can find the embryo of the flower arrow. Around it, like wrappers, are the rudiments of the leaves. They are charged with the function of accumulating nutrients.

Between the leaf embryos there are axillary and central buds. The outer layer of the bulb is integumentary scales. The diameter of the bulbs is not very large - it ranges from 2 to 3.5 cm.

Botanical description

More familiar to our gardeners are the rhizome species of irises. These are the flowers that in childhood we called cockerels and iris. However, bulbous irises are also no longer exotic. The most common of them is the Dutch iris. The scientific name of this flower is Xiphium. Despite the fact that Xyphium is a member of the Iris family and belongs to the genus Iris, it is recognized as a separate representative of the genus. Sometimes, by the way, this causes confusion in the specialized literature.

The Dutch bulbous iris, the planting and care of which is described in this article, produces flower stalks different heights. The dwarf species can produce a peduncle 30 cm high. The ordinary xyphium reaches a height of 80 cm.

The plant has narrow-grooved leaves, and the flower has a complex structure. The bud has 3 outer and 3 inner perianth lobes. The internal lobes are located vertically and have a narrow and wide lanceolate shape. The outer lobes are round in shape and directed towards the bottom.

Usually the outer perianth lobes have a yellow or orange spot in the center. The Dutch iris bud has several color and leaf width options. Moreover, it can be one-color or two-color.

The following petal colors are possible:

• white;
• yellow of varying intensity;
• different shades of blue and light blue;
• different shades of purple;
• lilac;
• combined versions of all the listed colors.

Where are Dutch irises used?

Dutch iris is often planted on personal plots and on garden beds. Landscape designers actively promote the species, using it in mixborders and alpine slides. Bright flowers make up bouquets that are appropriate to give to men, especially for bouquets of blue and purple tones. Low-growing bulbous irises can be grown as houseplants.

It is worth noting that a cut flower of a bulbous Dutch iris will last in a bouquet much longer than root varieties. It is especially good to use rainwater for the vase, since it does not contain chlorine.

How to choose soil for planting

When the Dutch iris is described, planting appears to many as a difficult task. But it is not so. It is enough to have information about several nuances of this process.

One of them is the choice of soil for the plant. The main thing you need to know is that irises do not tolerate excess moisture. They quickly die from rotting of the bulb and roots. Before planting, it is important to take care of drainage. However, it is not necessary to place it directly under the plants. Shallow trenches filled with gravel or broken bricks, dug near the flowerbed along its entire length, have proven themselves to be effective.

For those who are planning to plant Dutch bulbous iris for the first time, planting and care begin with the choice of soil. The ideal soil for this plant is loose, with high air permeability, nutritious, neutral or slightly alkaline. In addition, it must be waterproof.

In sandy and peat soils, turf and leaf soil, if necessary, adjust acidity. Fresh manure and excessive doses of chemical fertilizers should not be used. Perfect option– well-ripened compost or humus (a bucket of compost per 1 m² of land). After application, the fertilizer is thoroughly mixed with the soil. Subsequently, the irises are fed with wood ash.

How to plant bulbs

Do you want Dutch bulbous iris to bloom under your window? Planting is done as follows:

1. Use a round peg (diameter about 5 cm) to pierce the soil 15 cm deep. A distance of approximately 10 cm is maintained between the pits.
2. A handful of large grains is poured into the hole. river sand, into which the bulb is buried 1-2 cm.
3. The bulb is covered with the same sand on top.

After purchasing, any bulbs should be treated with a fungicide solution and slightly dried. Before planting, no later than 2 days, water the flowerbed or flowerpot with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and potassium humate.

Slightly sprouted bulbs, with sprouts and roots, are planted in a trench. The depth can be from 15 to 20 cm. This helps to carefully position the roots and not damage them. In this case, sand is poured to approximately 2/3 of the height of the trench. Dutch irises on top ( bulbous species), carefully pressed with sand and covered soil mixture. Then watering is carried out. The soil can be mulched with sand, small pebbles, and gravel.

Another convenient way to disembark

Dutch bulbous irises can be planted in a special basket. This plastic container with a large number of gaps and holes for air access and water outflow. It is inexpensive, you can find it in flower shops or order it on the World Wide Web.

The basket must be placed on the ground and circled with a shovel, the turf must be removed along the contour and a hole about 15 cm deep must be dug, the necessary fertilizer must be added to it, then the basket must be placed on top and loose soil mixed with compost must be poured into it. Next, the required number of bulbs are placed in the basket, which are covered with earth on top. At the end of flowering, the container is dug out and all the bulbs are stored.

Flowering time

Flowering begins at the end of May. Depending on the variety, the difference in the time of appearance of flower stalks and buds is 2-3 weeks. If it is humid and cool outside, the flowers will last up to three to four weeks. Dry sunny weather they fade faster.

If you choose varieties of bulbous irises with different blooms, then your gorgeous flowerbed will delight you even longer. And then you will be left with juicy and beautiful foliage, which can also serve as decoration.

How to care for a blooming Dutch iris

During flowering, the Dutch iris is not very whimsical. It only needs to be watered in very dry summers. Xyphium is usually enough natural humidity and morning dew. If neighboring plants require watering, then the irises are simply covered with film so that water does not get into the holes. Bulbous irises do not need regular feeding. It is enough to feed with wood ash or mineral mixture a week before flowering. The time is determined by the beginning of the formation of buds, they look like compactions between the leaves of the plant.

What to do next

So, the buds have faded, the xyphium foliage has completely dried out. What to do next? Does iris require Dutch care after flowering? After the leaves of the plant have completely dried, the bulb should be dug up. What’s nice is that where the gardener planted one bulb, there will be a small nest of them. Each bulb can be planted separately next year, or you can leave them in a nest for 3-4 years. If the gardener divides it, then next year only the largest bulbs will bloom, and the small ones will grow for several seasons, preparing for flowering.

The bulbs are dried and stored in a dry room until the beginning of Indian summer. Then they can be planted again in flower beds, but if the climate in the region is cold, then the planting should be covered for the winter. Thus, it is possible to understand color scheme, timing of flowering and height of peduncles, and next year form an ideal flower garden.

Diseases and pests

Dutch iris is damaged by leaf borers. In this case, damaged leaves are cut off and the plant is treated with insecticides. Be sure to dig up the ground in the fall and remove last year's foliage and trimmed stems and branches of other plants.

Of the diseases, the most dangerous for irises are various forms of spotting.

Iridodictium is a bulbous plant that grows in the mountains of Transcaucasia, as well as in the highlands of Central Asia. A small genus with 11 species.

Iridodictium is not as common in our gardens as crocuses or daffodils, but it is very attractive and not difficult to care for. Also known as snowdrop iris or reticulated iris.

During their early flowering period, iridodictiums reach only 10-15 cm in height, then the leaves grow up to 30 cm long, and in mid-summer they die off.

The bulbs are ovoid or round in shape, about 2 cm in diameter, covered with mesh scales, which are renewed every year.

Each iris and snowdrop bulb produces one big flower. The colors of the flowers are lilac, purple, blue, white, yellow with spots and stripes.

The perianth of Iridodictium consists of 6 leaflets: three inner and outer.

Like some iris, the outer perianth lobes have an orange or yellow stripe that turns into a white spot.

The beard of the reticulated iris consists of yellow hairs. Some varieties of iridodictium have flowers that have a pleasant aroma.

Using iridodictium in garden design

Iridodictiums are well suited for planting in rockeries or rock gardens, and the bulbs are best placed on the south side of large stones.

It can also be planted in cracks on top of retaining walls. In addition, the plant is suitable for forcing, starting in January and throughout the winter and early spring, as well as composing compositions together with hyacinths, crocuses and primroses.

Location and planting of iridodictium

For good development, sunny places are required. Large reticulated iris bulbs are planted at a depth of 8 cm, and small ones - 4 cm. The distance between iridodictium bulbs should be 10 cm. It is best to plant the same as crocuses - in groups of 10 bulbs.

The soil

Irises and snowdrops need slightly alkaline or neutral, well-drained soil. They grow poorly in wet soil and become sick.

Caring for iridodictiums

While the leaves are green, at the beginning of summer, the bulbs are fed with small doses of mineral fertilizer, watered only during drought, and winter period mulch with compost. Without transplanting in one place, the reticulated iris grows for 5 years.

After flowering, the plant requires more heat and dry living conditions, so it must be protected from rain and covered with glass.

You can also dig up iridodictium bulbs and transfer them to dry room until the beginning of October, then plant them again in the ground, burying them to a depth of 6 cm. Where moisture remains, it is best to dig up the bulbs before the arrival of winter.

Reproduction of Iridodictium

Seeds and vegetatively. Iris - snowdrop bulbs are planted to a depth of 7-12 cm, it all depends on their size. The bulbs are dug up in June, when the foliage turns yellow, without waiting for it to dry out.

Dry for several days at a temperature of 23 degrees, clean and store until August at the same temperature, then until planting at 16 degrees.

Large flowering bulbs sometimes break up into small bulbs that do not bloom. If this action does not stop, the only solution is to buy flowering bulbs every year.

To obtain iridodictium seeds, artificial pollination is carried out. The seeds are sown immediately after collection, then good seedlings appear the following spring.

Seedlings are planted in the garden bed, and after a few years they are planted in a permanent location. These bulbs bloom 3 years after sowing.

Iridodictium varieties retain their characteristics only when vegetative propagation daughter bulbs; the characteristics of Iridodictium species are also preserved during sowing.

Watering iridodictium

The presence of moisture in the soil is important during the formation of buds. After a harsh winter, it is usually sufficient and no watering is required.

Incredibly airy and colorful representatives of the iris family conquer the hearts of gardeners at first sight. True, we do not treat them very fairly: our gardens are decorated with tall rhizomatous plant species, while bulbous irises are undeservedly ignored. There is an opinion among flower lovers that the vagaries of bulbous crops are not worth the effort spent on painstaking care for them, but this is not at all true! By strictly following the agricultural techniques of planting and growing bulbous irises, you can achieve impressive results.

The beautifully flowering bulbous crop is divided into 3 types. Iridodictium, or reticular iris, iris reticulata Bright early spring beauties compete in grace and charm with crocus, scilla, galanthus and scylla. Iridodictium is the smallest type of bulbous iris. The height of an adult plant does not exceed 15 cm. The slightly elongated or rounded bulbs of the plant reach 2 cm in diameter. They are covered with rows of mesh scales. The stem of Iridodictium is framed by elongated narrow 3- or 4-sided leaves. The bulbous iris flower of this species attracts with its fragrant aroma. The color of the petals is very diverse and varies from white to purple, with beautiful transitions from dark to light tones and a clearly defined beard. The perianth consists of six petals, three of which are internal (narrowed, torn in the upper part, wavy light tone) and three external ones (horizontally separated, marked with a bright stripe in the center). Each peduncle is crowned with one flower. The fruit is a capsule filled with irregularly shaped seeds. In spring, flower stalks appear first, then leaves. When the reticulated iris blooms, its leaves barely stretch to 10 cm, but after a while they increase to 45 cm. Flowering lasts about two weeks. Towards the beginning of June, the iris leaves turn yellow and die a little later - the plant is preparing to rest. Iridodictium bulbs are known for their frost resistance and in regions with mild climates they can easily overwinter in the ground. One of the most popular and robust varieties of bulbous reticulated iris is Katharina Hodgkin. The plant can remain in one area for more than 5 years, without requiring mandatory digging and drying. Juno, or the iris pearl Juno is a rare aristocratic bulbous crop. It blooms from April to May, then the peduncle and leaves die off. The plant grows to a height of 20 to 40 cm. Several tiers of sickle-shaped leaves surround the stem in two regular rows. One peduncle bears 2 - 5 flowers of pale yellow or faded lilac color. The plant goes dormant in mid-late June. During this period, fleshy iris bulbs are dug up, thoroughly dried and replanted in September. Unlike the reticulated iris, juno is not very resistant to low temperatures, so for the winter it is protected with spruce branches or fallen leaves. The most beautiful and promising varieties of the species: Juno Bukhara, Warli, blue, replacement. Xyphium, or Dutch iris Despite their prevalence and accessibility, Xyphiums are the most finicky in the iris family. Most often, our gardens are full of bulbous Dutch irises - these are Xyphiums. Their flowers are loved for their variety color palette: rich and pastel blue, deep blue, yellow, cream, white. Most varieties Dutch irises bicolor. A beautiful and smooth mixture of colors is observed closer to the middle of the bud. The medium-sized xyphium bulb is bottle-shaped. After planting, narrow leaves of a rich green color, pointed at the tips, grow from it. The shoots of the plant are unbranched, decorated with single flowers. The plant does not tolerate cold at all - a temperature of -10°C is destructive for it. This species feature completely eliminates the question of whether it is necessary to dig up bulbous irises: in order to preserve their fragile beauty until next year, on the eve of cold weather, the bulbs must be dug up, and in the spring they are planted back. In truth, the cost of Dutch irises is very affordable, so many gardeners do not bother storing the bulbs and consider irises of this species as an annual crop. We can talk endlessly about the diversity of Dutch irises: there are a lot of xyphiums, but they are all incredibly beautiful. Check out the photos of different varieties of Dutch bulbous irises: Depeche Mode; Black dragon; Cupid Father; Fruit cocktail; Forge Fire; Pumpkin Cheesecake. Xyphiums of the Spanish variety are even more vulnerable than their Dutch counterparts, so they are certainly removed from the soil for the winter, even in the south of the country. The English Xyphium variety is more frost-resistant and grows without problems in central Russia, but these plants are rarely found on sale. All types of bulbous irises are very sensitive to stagnant water, so immediately abandon the idea of ​​planting them in an area with high level groundwater and poor drainage system- the plants will rot. The ideal soil for bulbous irises is light, nutritious, with adequate drainage. These characteristics are fully met by sandy soil, fed organic fertilizers. Light-loving iris is best planted in a well-lit area. Even partial shading will not allow the plant to bloom wildly. The time when bulbous irises are planted depends on the type of plant. Yes, the most suitable period for planting iridodictiums and junos - early autumn. Ideally, you should place the bulbs in the ground in early September. Planting can be done later, it is important that this happens 2 weeks before the arrival of the first frost. If the iris bulbs end up in the soil later, they simply will not have time to take root and will face the winter completely unprepared - the plant will most likely die. Landing and further care Bulbous irises can be put off until spring, just keep in mind that spring irises They will be able to bloom only after a year. Xyphiums, especially “Dutch” and “Spaniards”, grow well in March-April, when the sun's rays have already warmed the soil to 10°C. Abundant flowering plants will delight you already in June-July. Planting bulbous irises in spring and autumn: step-by-step instructions Step one. Prepare the bulbs for planting Bulb plants are a tasty morsel for fungal rot. Before immersing the bulbs in the ground, carefully inspect and evaluate their condition. Planting material is usually purchased in late winter or early spring. It is safest to choose irises not at spontaneous markets, but at specialized points of sale, where the seller is responsible for compliance temperature regime during the rest period. A healthy bulb is even, smooth, without dents, cuts or stains. It is covered with a dense, shiny, golden-brown shell. Before planting, planting material is treated with special preparations that protect young plants from fungus. To do this, you can use a strong solution of potassium permanganate, Maxim or Fundazol: immerse the bulbs for 40 minutes in a disinfecting solution, then dry them thoroughly and only then proceed to planting. Step two. Prepare the ground Dig it up suitable site and add sand or other loosening agents if the soil is too dense and does not drain moisture well. Irises are extremely demanding in terms of soil nutrition, so before planting, feed the soil with perennial compost. Fresh manure for bulbous crops is contraindicated because it can cause the development of diseases of fungal origin. Step three. Plant the bulbs correctly Place the iris bulbs bottom down in small holes to a depth of no more than 8 cm. Maintain an interval between planting holes of 10 to 15 cm. Do not water fresh plantings: for successful acclimatization of the bulbs, it will be enough that they are in the soil. You also need to sprinkle the holes with bulbs wisely: the layer of soil above the future iris should correspond to three diameters of the bulb itself (approximately 8 - 10 cm). Following this recommendation will help irises survive winter cold. According to experienced flower growers, intentionally increasing the planting depth of heat-loving xyphiums to 15–20 cm allows them to keep their bulbs in the soil in winter and turn them into vista perennials. To make the wintering of xyphiums planted in autumn comfortable, cover the plantings with a peat mulch layer and place spruce branches or dry leaves on top. Features of growing bulbous irises Irises will certainly appreciate abundant and regular watering in the spring, during the growing season. But in summer the bulbous plant rests, so the bulbs should be kept warm and dry. Such ideal conditions can be provided to the iris if you dig up the bulbs, dry them and put them in a box with sawdust until the fall. The temperature should be within the range of 18 - 25°C. This mandatory procedure For delicate junos, iridodictiums can be left in the ground for the summer. But if summer brought with it heavy rains and moisture, planting reticulate irises protected with film or roofing felt. Snowy and mild winters Iridodictiums and Junos are tolerated quite calmly. But in snowless, harsh periods with low temperatures the soil above the bulbs needs additional insulation. A reliable “blanket” for plantings is spruce branches, fallen dry leaves or lutrasil. Responsible care for bulbous irises involves proper storage. To ensure that xyphiums are protected from freezing, they are dug up in the fall and kept in a cold but frost-free room (cellar or refrigerator) at a temperature of no more than 10°C until spring. How to propagate bulbous irises Obtaining offspring from your favorite flowers has its own characteristics. Bulbous irises They actively reproduce and in 2–3 years they become overgrown with a whole nest of bulbs. The first babies appear a year after planting. In summer, irises dig up and divide the nest into large and small bulbs. Large ones are dried and stored until autumn, but the children are not dried, they are immediately planted for growing. The “young plants” bloom in 2–3 years. Diseases and pests of bulbous irises If weather and climatic conditions go against optimal conditions growing irises, the flowers begin to get sick and suffer from various pests. Initially, iris bushes infected with insects are very easy to identify - pay attention to the number of their leaves. A healthy plant grows from 7 to 9 leaves, while a weak iris will barely acquire 5 leaves. At the beginning of spring, the greatest danger to bulbous plants comes from the voracious caterpillars of the cutworm butterfly: they gnaw leaves and destroy flower stalks. To protect against pests, granosan is added to the ground at the base of the irises. Thrips are another enemy of bulbous plants. Insects usually accumulate in the axillary corners of leaves. To get rid of them, try spraying the foliage several times with diluted karbofos (20 - 30 g per 10 liters of water). Superphosphate, which is sprinkled on the soil in the area with irises, will help prevent slugs in wet weather. Causes irreparable harm to the bulbous plant bacterial rot rhizomes. If you notice the problem in time, the damaged iris can still be saved. To do this, the rotten areas are cut off with a sharp knife to healthy tissue, after which the cut is washed with a concentrated solution of potassium permanganate, and then covered with Novikov’s liquid (a mixture of brilliant green with BF-6 glue). The microorganisms that caused the development of rot die if the soil around the rhizome is cleared and the cut area is warmed in direct sunlight. Another disease that is most dangerous for irises is all forms of leaf spot. As soon as yellowish spots appear on at least one of the bushes, all plantings are treated with a fungicide with enhanced action (Fundazol, Quadris, Bravo, Fitosporin-M). If the spots have managed to “spread” over several bushes, arrange several treatments of irises with an interval of 7–8 days.

Iridodictium for a long time attributed to the genus Iris, distinguishing in separate group- bulbous irises. Indeed, these pretty mountain plants from the iridaceae (iris, or iris) family are very similar in structure to irises, only instead of a rhizome they have a bulb. Disputes about the legality of such a decision did not subside for two centuries, and by the middle of the last century, restless taxonomists still distinguished “false irises” as an independent genus. Now low, small-bulbed irises are called iridodictium, and large-bulbed irises are called xyphium.

However, due to traditional conservatism, Western European manufacturers and suppliers of floriculture products continue to use outdated terminology, introducing some confusion into the names of these crops. Let's take a closer look at plants whose graceful flowers are indeed very similar to iris flowers, and their unpretentiousness in cultivation and varied flowering periods allow us to significantly expand the collection of “orcas” in our garden. By the way, half-forgotten Russian word“Kasatik,” which defines the name of the entire family, means dear, desired, beloved.

Description of iridodictium

They appear in the garden at the same time as crocuses. Their flowers are ahead of the development of leaves, and the degree of this advance is an important species characteristic for determining the species and group of the plant. The mentioned differences (the presence of a bulb and the development of flowers before leaves) gave Russian botanists grounds to insist on separating these plants into an independent genus Iridodictium.

Mrs. Dunford's iridodictium (I. danfordiae) Danford's iris appears first in the spring. He is the most impatient. A miniature baby with a height of only 10 cm with small yellow flowers with greenish specks and a corolla diameter of no more than 3-5 cm, like a persistent tin soldier, with desperate courage it resists night frosts and other adversities of early spring. The plant has a wonderful aroma of freshness. At one time it was discovered in the mountains of Turkey and introduced into culture by Mrs. Dunford. We are most often supplied with garden clones of this wild species.

The plant differs from other representatives of “bulbous irises” not only in its dwarf growth and the absence of upper “petals” (standards) of the flower, which makes it very similar to a miniature iris, but also in the complete sterility of the flowers. It reproduces only vegetatively, forming one or two small replacement bulbs and a mass of babies, the size of a grain of rice, at the base of the mother bulb. To form larger replacement bulbs, Mrs. Dunford’s iridodictium is recommended to be planted a little deeper than is customary for other representatives of the genus, to a depth of 6-10 cm, taking into account the size of the planting material and the mechanical composition of the soil.

Iris reticulata (I. reticulata)

Iridodictium reticulata - blooms in the garden in early April, almost simultaneously with hybrid large-flowered crocuses. Large, charming flowers shudder with their delicate petals under the elastic pressure of the spring wind, like a bright tropical butterfly fluttering its wings on a stem. The mesmerizing bloom lasts about three weeks. Each flower stays open for 3-5 days. This is the most common iridodictium in culture, the varieties of which were obtained as a result natural selection and interspecific crossing of Iris reticulum, Iris Becker and Iris historioides, but retaining the main hereditary characteristics of Iris reticulum: characteristic flower color, early flowering and a bulb covered with a reticulum.

In Western catalogs they are called “varieties of reticulated iris.” There are more than 20 varieties of Iridodictium reticulum in commercial circulation today. The plants are quite unpretentious in cultivation, reproduce well vegetatively, forming three to four new bulbs per year, and produce quite viable seeds. A small oblong bulb 3-4 cm long and 1.5-2.5 cm in diameter, covered with a mesh-fibrous shell, hence the name of the species. Height flowering plant 12-15 cm. The flowers are large, 5-7 cm in size, fragrant, rich blue, cyan, or violet-purple in color with a bright yellow-orange or white spot on the lower petal. There are white forms "Alba" and "Natasha". In the catalogs you will find absolutely charming varieties:

• "Cantab"
• "Harmony"
• "Edward"
• "J.S. Dijt"
• "Pauline"

Hybrid Katarina Hodgkin

Another amazing plant is a hybrid between irises histrioides major and iris Vinogradov - “Katharine Hodgkin”. Bred more than half a century ago, it remains today the best among the bulbous irises of this group. Large, up to 10 cm, fragrant flowers with wide petals of a discreetly elegant bluish-gray color. It is very difficult to describe the full color of the flower; it seems that its petals shimmer with greenish cosmic light. This beautiful flower was named after a lovely woman and dedicated to the wife of the famous botanist Hodgkin.

Later, based on the Vinogradov and historioides irises, other varieties “Frank Elder” and “Sheila Ann Germaney” were bred, but Katarina still remains an unsurpassed masterpiece of selection. Plants of this group are more tolerant of turf and soil moisture in summer period. They can be grown without digging and replanting for up to 5 years. They reproduce by replacement bulbs and offspring, which the plant produces in large quantities.

Growing and care

Growing iridodictiums is not difficult. The culture is winter-hardy and does not require any special care. Grows well in well-lit, sunny areas with drained neutral or slightly alkaline soil, but does not tolerate excess moisture. During the summer dormancy period, Iridodictium requires dry maintenance. In nature, plants live in the mountains and foothills of the Caucasus, Asia Minor and Western Asia, and the biology of their development suggests the presence of cool climate sufficient quantity precipitation in spring, hot dry summers and snowy winters without thaws or snow blowing. If the climatic conditions of your area are far from ideal, summer rains a common occurrence, and the sticky soil on the site, like sandwich butter, is smeared on a shovel, then it is better to grow them on a raised hill or on the south side of a large tree, lilac bush, the roots of which, like a pump, will draw out excess moisture.

Like another one reliable option For plant conservation, I can suggest digging up the bulbs every year after flowering.

It is the absence or untimely digging of bulbs that main reason failures in growing this crop and the disease of the bulbs with “ink spot”.

By the way, the dense leaves of iridodictium tend to remain green for a long time, even if the bulb itself has long gone into a dormant state. Therefore, you should not wait for them to dry completely. Yellowing of the upper part of the leaf blade and lodging of the leaves can be considered a signal for digging. Having selected the nests, but without tearing off the leaves, we dry them for several days at +23...25°C and then clean them. Before planting, store the bulbs in sawdust in a dry and dark room, maintaining a temperature of +17...20°C. In the steppe and forest-steppe parts of the country, where rains are not frequent in summer, plants can not be dug up for up to three to five years. We plant it in the ground at the end of September-October to a depth of 6-8 cm (2-3 bulb heights), with a distance between plants of 10-15 cm.

Iridodictium in landscape design

All iridodictiums look great on both alpine slide both in a rock garden and in a simple flower garden, on the lawn near a large stone and in a flowerpot near the porch of the house. You can plant plant bulbs in large cracks at the top retaining wall, along with sedum and sedum. All iridodictiums are suitable for early winter forcing in pots.

Caring for and planting iris reticulum

The reticulated iris is significantly smaller in size than ordinary rhizomatous irises. It reaches 15 cm in height. Small decorative irises are popular due to their bright colors, original flower shape and ability to grow without much effort.

Landing

The photo of the reticulated iris looks very attractive, but to achieve such decorative flowers, you need to make some effort. First, choose a suitable place to grow flowers. The soil should be light, nutritious and drained. Avoid growing irises in places that are close to groundwater flow, because the plants do not tolerate stagnant moisture.

Source: Depositphotos

Iris reticulum is one of the first spring plants

The landing rules are:

• Carefully inspect the planting material. Throw away any rotten or damaged bulbs.
• Loosen the soil and add compost to it.
• Prepare the wells. Make holes about 10 cm deep. The distance between the holes should be at least 10 cm. Place flower blanks in the holes.
• Once irises are planted in the ground, they do not need watering. The moisture already contained in the soil is quite sufficient.

The optimal time for planting is early autumn, that is, a period approximately 3 weeks before the onset of the first frost. If desired, planting can be done in the spring, but in this case flowering will begin only after a year.

Care

Successful planting is only the beginning of iris development. To make them happy with abundant and bright flowering, follow the basic rules for caring for flowers:

• During the period of bud formation, make sure that the soil is kept moist.
• In summer, plants need to be kept warm and dry, so reduce watering to 1-3 times a month. If the summer is humid with heavy rainfall, cover the bed with film.
• Before the onset of cold weather, insulate the ground with leaves.
• During the growing season, add compost or humus to the soil.

These are the basic rules of care; the iris does not need anything more. Therefore, flowers are often used in landscape design, because growing them is easy and pleasant, and the bright result is impressive.

Irises successfully coexist with other small flowers, for example, crocuses or scylla. Also, these plants get along with ornamental perennials that have a small root system.

So, the reticulated iris is not a capricious and demanding plant. If you follow simple care rules, a positive result can be achieved quite quickly.