Proper watering of plants. What water to water
How can we understand that this is a plant suffering from waterlogging? Leaf falling is one of the symptoms. In a number of plants, such as citrus fruits, they literally fall off - they darken and fall off. In others, for example, in aroids (Aglaonema, Dieffenbachia) or arrowroot, they darken, but still stay on the stems for a long time. In plants that form rosettes of leaves or pseudo rosettes (yucca, dracaena), the leaves do not darken immediately, but first become discolored and become pale yellow. But in other cases, a characteristic difference between leaves that die from waterlogging is darkening of the leaf. The leaf doesn’t just turn yellow, it actually darkens, the color changes from a healthy juicy green dirty-swamp shade, gradually turning into brown. If waterlogging is preceded by overdrying, the leaf first turns yellow, then the leaf petiole and the leaf itself darken.
Rotten roots peel off, upper layer the root becomes dirty gray, peels off if you run your fingers through it, leaving a thin, hard core. These roots all died from waterlogging.
And these are healthy living roots - green, yellowish or whitish, in some plants of succulent Brown.
Sudden or gradual falling of leaves, blackening of shoots, damp, sour soil...
The trunk still seems alive and green, but the roots have rotted and the plant can no longer be saved.
When a plant does not have enough water, the leaves always turn yellow, while the leaf tissues may lose elasticity, droop, or remain dry. After watering, turgor is restored and the leaves become elastic again. If there is insufficient nutrition, then interveinal chlorosis may appear; the leaves do not droop, continue to grow, but become smaller. When overmoistened, the leaves may lose their elasticity and droop, but after watering the elasticity is not restored, and the darkening of the leaves, on the contrary, increases. Sometimes the leaves can fall off even without darkening - still green. But leaf fall can also occur due to watering. cold water. Ideally, the water temperature for irrigation should be 2-3°C higher than the room temperature, but not lower than 22°C. Cold water is not absorbed by the roots, causing the suction roots to die from hypothermia, and, as a result, leaves to fall off.
As for water hardness, it cannot be the reason for the sudden falling of leaves and death of the plant. If you water plants with hard water, even the most capricious ones, sensitive to excess salts, the plants will not begin to lose leaves en masse. All the damage manifests itself gradually: first, chlorotic spots appear, the tips or edges of the leaves turn brown, one or two leaves turn yellow, new leaves grow small and the plant looks depressed, but leaves do not fall off.
In case of massive leaf fall, when leaves fall off not one by one, but dozens at once, the reasons may be the following: sudden hypothermia (for example, during transportation home), watering with concentrated fertilizer (burning roots), severe drying out, and only hygrophytes and mesohygrophytes fly around en masse (and there are few of them), and waterlogging. Naturally, the first two reasons can be easily calculated, and it is also possible to distinguish overdrying from overwatering, but for this the plant must be removed from the pot. It is not always possible to feel the soil with your finger at depth (for example, the roots have grown greatly), and only by removing the plant from the pot can you determine whether the soil inside the root ball is wet.
Some gardeners wait until the last minute, not wanting to remove the plant and inspect the roots. They are either selflessly confident that there was no waterlogging, or they are afraid that an unscheduled transplant will damage the plant. But if there is even the slightest suspicion of waterlogging, there is no need to doubt it - take it out and inspect the roots. Sometimes root system plants grow in this way: at the top the roots are not dense, the soil dries out easily between them, and in the lower part of the pot the roots form a tight ring, the intertwining of the roots makes drying difficult and in the lower part of the pot the soil dries for a very long time. This is especially aggravated by the fact that the holes at the bottom of the pot are small and clogged with pebbles or grains of earth.
The tangerine is the result of waterlogging and acidification of the soil. Chlorosis is a lack of various microelements.
This deplorable condition is the result of hypothermia of the root system: watering with cold water or the plant is left with damp soil on a cold balcony or outside.
There is also a deplorable symptom that is characteristic of severe, prolonged waterlogging - darkening, blackening and wilting of the tops of the shoots. If a similar picture occurs, then the matter is already very neglected, and often it is simply impossible to save the plant. If the tops of all the shoots have rotted (yellowed or darkened), there is nothing left to save. A similar picture is possible only with severe hypothermia of the roots, and never occurs when the roots are overdried. When overdrying, wilting begins with old leaves, with lower shoots, and the trunk becomes bare from below. When overmoistened, the leaves wither in any part of the crown, but more often from above, from the tops of the shoots.
And of course, any softening of the stems or leaves of plants with fleshy parts of the body, and these are yuccas, dracaenas, dieffenbachias, any succulents (crassulas, adeniums, etc.), cacti - a sure sign of excess moisture.
Another symptom that is not entirely correct and does not always indicate a specific plant, but still makes you think, is the presence of fungus gnats. If a swarm of midges flies up from the pot, it means that you watered the flowers too much, perhaps it was once or twice, or perhaps you have become a habit of over-watering. Unlike mosquitoes, poduras (colembolas) are white or dirty-gray insects, about 1-2 mm, jumping on the surface of the ground in a pot - a sure sign that the flower is flooded more than once.
Measures to save flooded plants
When you have determined that the plant has been flooded, you need to take immediate action. If you establish the fact of waterlogging after removing the plant from the pot, then you will have to replant. If the fact of waterlogging is determined by indirect signs (falling leaves, damp soil to the touch), then the need for replanting depends on the severity of the situation.
- If the plant has lost one or two leaves, or one branch in the mighty crown has withered, and the soil in the pot is quite light, then you do not need to replant the plant, but only loosen the soil. After watering, especially abundantly, the soil spreads out, and after drying, a dense crust forms on its surface. If this crust is not destroyed, the roots suffer from lack of air. If seed plantings are watered, the seedlings may not reach the surface of the earth and die from hypoxia.
- If the pot is small drainage holes, you can expand them or increase their number without removing the plant from the pot, using a knife heated on the stove.
- Personally, I never try to just loosen the soil; this is not very reliable and justified in cases where a flooded plant is in a very large pot, replanting is difficult, or when the plant is transferred from a cold room to a warm one, and the very increase in temperature will speed up the drying of the soil.
- In all other cases better plant transplant.
Signs of flooding in orchids - phalaenopsis leaves turn yellow, they are sluggish, wrinkled. The bark takes a very long time to dry, and the roots rot from constant contact with the damp surface.
Rotten roots must be cut off. In some cases, the new pot will have to be chosen smaller than it was.
So, you take the plant out of the pot, and you need to determine the condition of the soil and roots. Still, is the soil damp and how damp? Count when you last time watered it until it dried. Sometimes a person is convinced that the soil has been dry for a long time, say, a week has passed since watering, but upon inspection it turns out that the soil inside the pot is still very damp. Then try to remember what the weather was like, how it happened that the soil did not have time to dry out! It is important to at least try to analyze in order to prevent this from happening, or to calculate which plants could still be flooded. For some people, floods occur systematically over and over again. This suggests that it is necessary to radically reconsider the care system: perhaps change the soil in the pots to a more structured, loose one, increase the drainage holes, add more drainage to the bottom of the pot; water with less water; rearrange plants into more warm room or water less often when the soil dries out more. Sometimes you have to literally slap your hands so that you don’t rise with a watering can over the plant ahead of time...
Inspect the roots. Rotten ones can be seen immediately - they separate, if you grab the root with two fingers and pull, the skin slides off it - it is brown or dark gray, under it there remains a bundle of vessels that looks like a wire, a hard rod. If such separation occurs, the root is rotten. Healthy roots do not separate; if you run your fingers over the surface, the top layer will not come off. In some cases, the roots do not exfoliate, the fleshy, succulent roots rot completely, and this is also immediately visible - they are dark, dirty gray or brown, sometimes softened. You can often identify healthy roots and rotten ones by contrast. appearance, some are light, white, light brown, others are dark, not only on the outside, but also on the scrap or break areas.
There are times when rotten roots break off easily and, when the plant is removed from the pot, fall off along with the soil. If you haven’t found any definitely rotten roots, but the soil and root ball are damp, you need to dry them. To do this, we blot the measles lump in any hygroscopic material: in a pile of old newspapers, in a roll toilet paper. You can even let the plant with its root system exposed (without a pot) dry for several hours.
Having discovered rotten roots, you need to cut them off, no matter how many there are. This is a source of infection, there is nothing to regret here. We cut everything down to healthy tissue. If the roots are fleshy, juicy, watery, then it is advisable to sprinkle the cut areas with charcoal (charcoal, birch) or sulfur powder (sold in pet stores). If there is neither one nor the other, crush the tablet activated carbon. If there are very few roots left, much less than there were, you need to transplant the plant into a smaller pot.
I have already said that a pot that is too spacious and not filled with roots does not contribute to the rapid growth of plants, and in some cases is even harmful. It is easier to fill a plant in a spacious pot. And even if you water carefully, the plant strives to grow the root system, develop a large surface of the earth, and only then enhances the growth of the above-ground part.
Substrate for aroids, bromeliads and other plants. Instead of a pot, a basket, substrate: soil, coconut fiber, coconut substrate, wine stopper, pine bark and moss (just a little of it). A decaying anthurium, transplanted into this mixture, bloomed a month later and released its third bud.
If you tend to flood your plants, then use clay pots to plant your plants. But there is one important point: The inside of the pot should not be glazed. If the inside of a clay pot is covered with glaze, it is no better than a plastic one.
So, you need to choose a pot for the root ball remaining after removing the rot. In this case, the rule will be effective: better smaller pot, the more. It’s okay if the pot is small, healthy roots will grow, notify you by their appearance from the drainage holes, and you just transfer the plant to a larger pot and that’s it. During the growing season, plants can be replanted at any time and more than once. Most plants, if they get sick after transplantation, stop growing, this is most often due to improper care after transplantation, and not from root injuries.
After transplantation, plants should not be placed in the sun, even the most light-loving ones; they should remain under shade for a week. You cannot water plants on the same day, especially those that are being rehabilitated from overwatering - these plants generally need to be watered for the first time after 2-3 days. You cannot fertilize transplanted plants for 1-1.5 months. And when transplanting sick plants (including flooded ones), you cannot add dry fertilizers (neither manure, nor litter, nor granular fertilizers). Do not clog the transplanted plant in plastic bag. This very package sometimes becomes pure evil. The fact is that transplanted plants, deprived of watering, must be placed in high humidity conditions in the first days. And many people try to put the plant in a bag and tie it tightly. In this case, the importance, of course, increases. But the availability of oxygen is reduced. As we remember, the plant breathes both roots and leaves; if the plant has been flooded, it especially needs fresh air, and if pathogenic microorganisms have developed on it - various spots of fungal or bacterial origin, then it simply needs fresh air!
Here you can do this: place the plant in a transparent bag, straighten the edges, but do not tie it. If the weather is very hot, then you can spray it 1-2 times a day; if the plants do not tolerate water getting on the leaves, then simply place the pot on a wide tray with water on an inverted saucer.
If the plant has rotten crowns or ends of the shoots, they must be trimmed back to healthy tissue. If possible, at the same time cut the plant - cut off healthy branches for rooting, in order to be able to save at least something if the flood has already led to irreversible consequences. Sometimes it happens that the roots rot completely, but some of the shoots still remain vigorous until they wither (this is temporary) and cuttings can still be taken from them. In some cases, when the roots rot, toxins enter the vascular system of plants (the aforementioned swamp gases, products of bacteria and fungi) and cut cuttings, even healthy-looking ones do not take root, they are already doomed...
After transplantation, the flooded plant can be sprayed with growth stimulants (epin or amulet), only in dark time days (most stimulants decompose in light). If there are dark spots on the leaves, rotten tops of the shoots, then it is advisable to spray the plant with a fungicide, or add a fungicide to the water for irrigation. Suitable fungicides include: Fundazol, Maxim, Khom, Oksihom (and other copper-containing preparations). 3-4 days after transplanting into fresh, dry soil, the plant can be watered with a zircon solution.
If a plant that has a wide rosette of leaves in the form of a funnel, like bromeliads, is flooded, then it is necessary to dry the bases of the leaves. To do this, you first need to turn the plant upside down with its leaves. When the water drains, pour 2-3 tablets of crushed activated carbon into the outlet. After 3-5 minutes, carefully remove it with a soft fluffy brush. Many bromeliads rot when they are watered through a rosette of leaves in winter. Read more carefully the recommendations for growing a particular plant, and especially care in winter.
Another important point: after flooding, the soil in the pot turns sour: the roots of the plants continue to secrete carbon dioxide, the renewal of humus slows down, and humic acids accumulate, which increases the acidity of the soil, many nutrients pass into a form that is indigestible by plants. For example, iron goes into an oxidized form (F3+), which causes a rusty-brown crust to form on the surface of the earth. Oxidized iron is not absorbed, and as a result, the plant shows all the signs of its deficiency - severe chlorosis. This is especially noticeable on fruit plants: signs of calcium, iron, and nitrogen deficiency appear. At this stage, some gardeners do not pay attention to the condition of the soil and rush to treat the effect rather than the cause. As a result, the plant continues to suffer and turn yellow. At times it gets better (for example, after spraying with ferovit), and after applying fertilizers to the soil it gets even worse.
In such a situation, the only way out is to completely replace the land. And if you were in a hurry to apply fertilizer, it is advisable to rinse the roots under running warm water when replanting. Then dry, remove rotten ones, sprinkle with coal and plant in fresh, dry soil.
If a white or red salt crust forms on the surface of the earth, this is a signal: the earth is taking a long time to dry! Such a salt crust must be removed and the top layer of soil replaced with a fresh one.
Hebe is an exotic plant that is often grown in greenhouses and winter gardens. In the southern regions it is cultivated as a common garden flower, grown in open ground.
What does a hebe flower look like?
The flower attracts attention with its leathery shiny leaves. The inflorescences are shaped like heather in an enlarged size. The length of the inflorescences reaches 10 cm, and as they fade they become lighter. Plants bloom profusely from May to July.
Hebe flowers come in different shades
Description of types:
- Boxwood. Container culture. The leaves are similar to boxwood leaves. Maximum height – 50 cm. Inflorescences are white, with a slightly pinkish tint.
- Cypress-shaped. Small leaves green or bronze in color resemble pine needles. Low growing variety(up to 30 cm).
- Rakayenskaya. Tall species - up to 1 m. Leaves are small, oblong. Unpretentious, tolerates transplantation without problems. Resistant to frost.
- Thick-leaved. Includes low- and medium-growing varieties. Container culture. The leaves are thick and fleshy. The flowers are white.
In warm regions they are grown as perennials.
Planting a hebe flower and caring for it
These shrubs are not picky about the composition of the soil; they can grow well even in poor soils. They have a negative attitude only towards heavy clay soil. But still, for young plants, before planting, it is advisable to prepare a good loose substrate of sand, peat, turf and leaf soil.
The plant prefers bright light. But so that the flower does not suffer due to abundance sun rays, first you need to shade it. Hebe blooms weakly in the shade. These plants love moisture, so watering should be plentiful and the soil should not dry out. In hot weather, it is advisable to spray the bushes regularly. During the period of intensive growth, the shrub needs to be fed with complex fertilizers.
In the spring, you can carry out anti-aging pruning, remove stem cuttings and increase watering
Watering is an important process when caring for indoor flowers. Plants absorb moisture from the soil through their root system. Watering promotes leaf turgor, bud formation and abundant flowering. With water it gets the necessary minerals, microelements contained in the soil. Thanks to moisture, the process of photosynthesis occurs.
The frequency and intensity of watering primarily depends on the type of plant. In this regard, three main groups are distinguished.
- Plants that require abundant watering. As a rule, these are tropical flowers, as well as plants with broad leaves. Moisture quickly evaporates from their surface. These are ficus, begonia, oleander, passionflower, citrus fruits, etc.
- Requiring moderate watering. Due to their structure, they have the ability to store moisture. This is evidenced by thick stems, powerful roots, and fleshy leaves. These are bulbous, aroid, arrowroot, palm trees, etc.
- Drought resistant. They can go without water for several weeks. These are mainly cacti and succulents.
Depending on the moisture needs of flowers, there are three types of watering:
- Abundant. The top layer of soil must dry out before watering. The flowers are watered from above with a large amount of water, then the excess is drained from the pan. Carried out every day.
- Moderate. Before watering, the soil should be dry 13-15 mm from above. Water until the entire soil is moistened, avoiding overwatering. This watering occurs twice a week.
- Limited. The substrate should dry by 60 percent. This can be checked using wooden stick. Water from above, not allowing water to drain into the pan. It is recommended to do this no more than once every two weeks.
The frequency of watering also depends on external conditions– humidity, temperature, time of year.
It is also necessary to pay attention to the pot in which the plant is contained. In ceramic pots, the substrate dries out faster than in plastic ones. This means you should water more often.
How to water flowers correctly?
The path to proper watering begins with planting bushes. Be sure to leave room in the pot for water.
Just a few centimeters from the top so that there is somewhere to pour water, and not wait until the drops are absorbed and add more.
Do not allow water to stagnate in the pan. This leads to rotting of the roots. After watering, wait 30-40 minutes, and then drain all excess water. It is better to use a watering can with a long spout.
When watering flowers with it, you will achieve maximum accuracy. Moisture will not get on the leaves and rosettes of flowers, the moisture of which is undesirable.
Water the plants in the morning.
During the day, water evaporates more easily. If you water flowers at night, unnecessary dampness accumulates, which harms everything growing.
When the soil is overly wet, flower roots stop “breathing.” To restore access to oxygen, dry the soil and do not water the flower for a while.
Depending on which pot contains the flower, we choose the appropriate watering method. There are three types:
- upper;
- lower;
- immersion
Top watering is considered common. It is carried out in small portions on top of the pot. This way, the entire substrate is moistened, minimizing the risk of water stagnation in the pot. Excess moisture is removed from the pallet. With this method of irrigation, some of the mineral salts are washed out of the soil. To compensate for losses, it is necessary to feed the plants regularly.
Bottom watering is carried out in a tray. Water rises through the drainage holes, feeding the roots, then evaporates from the soil surface. But with this method of watering, salts are not washed out of the substrate. On the contrary, they begin to accumulate in excessive quantities. A limescale crust forms on the surface, which must be removed as it carries a risk of infection. This crust is removed and replaced with fresh soil.
Flowers are watered by immersion, which do not tolerate water getting on the leaves. The pot with the flower is immersed in water and left to soak in moisture for a few minutes. Then it is taken out onto a horizontal surface, allowing excess moisture to drain. Cyclamens, violets, orchids, etc. are watered in this way. As a rule, such watering is done no more than once a week.
What kind of water should I water my plants with?
Currently, tap water contains a large number of impurities. Therefore it can be dangerous. Rain or melt water is considered ideal. It is quite soft, from natural sources. For disinfection purposes, it is recommended to add a couple of pieces of charcoal to it.
Unfortunately, not all gardeners have the opportunity to water their pets in this way. Therefore, there is a simpler solution - to settle tap water. In this case, it must be left for at least 12 hours. Better a few days. When watering, do not drain the water completely - harmful sediment remains at the bottom, which is better to get rid of. This method has another advantage - the water heats up to room temperature. For plants, especially tropical ones, this creates more comfortable conditions.
For faster use tap water, you can filter it, or throw half a teaspoon of soda per liter of water.
What fertilizers can be used?
Succinic acid. This substance rather has growth stimulating properties. It helps plants adapt to new conditions. Helps fight diseases and pests by activating internal forces plants.
Succinic acid is also used for:
- soaking seeds for better germination;
- rooting cuttings;
- root treatment before transplanting;
- resuscitation of indoor flowers.
Succinic acid is involved in the absorption useful substances. Thus, it is rational to water plants with added acid after fertilizing them.
To water plants with succinic acid, you need to prepare a fresh solution each time, as it quickly disintegrates.
To prepare the solution you need to mix 1-2 grams succinic acid with a liter of water.
Yeast also acts as a kind of biostimulant. They contain many useful substances that have a beneficial effect on the growth and development of plants. Spilling yeast can be used as a complex mineral fertilizing. It's affordable and effective fertilizer for your pets.
Prepare a spill solution from the following elements:
- yeast 10 g;
- sugar 1 tablespoon;
- water 1 liter.
After mixing, you need to let our fertilizer brew for several hours in a warm place. Then dilute the resulting solution with water (part fertilizer to 5 parts water). You can start feeding!
Ash- simply a storehouse of substances valuable for the plant. You can find iron, zinc, magnesium, and sulfur in it. Potassium and phosphorus, also contained in this substance, will be indispensable for feeding. Fertilize the flowers by pouring them with a solution of 1 tablespoon of ash per liter of water.
Banana peel– a source of minerals and many vitamins. It also contains large amounts of phosphorus and potassium. It is better to prepare banana peels for future use: cut them into small pieces and dry them well. To prepare the fertilizer, you only need to brew the peel. The cooled decoction can be fed to indoor plants.
Watering plants is an extremely important process for your plants. It is necessary to approach each flower individually. You need to choose your own watering schedule for everyone, taking into account their needs and development characteristics.
Watering - necessary condition for plant life. Growing without watering is impossible for any plant; they all need water. Many people water their plants “as it happens,” from time to time, but do not ask themselves how to water the flowers. But in order for the plants to always look beautiful and for watering to bring maximum benefit to them, you need to know a few rules for watering house plants. So,
1. What kind of water should I water indoor flowers with?
Water for watering plants can be ordinary tap water, but allowed to stand for at least 24 hours. In order for the chlorine to evaporate, you need to settle the water in an open container. Soft water for irrigation is most suitable in the best possible way. Tap water is mostly hard. Water from wells is even harder and is not at all suitable for watering indoor plants.
How to soften such water for irrigation? It is enough to boil it for 3 – 5 minutes. When boiling, most of the harmful salts precipitate and the water becomes soft.
It is not advisable to water plants with distilled water, because... it does not contain mineral salts necessary for plants. The exceptions are azaleas, gardenias, ferns, camellias, orchids and some predator plants, for which watering with distilled water is even desirable, because. they need to be watered only with soft water.
It is better not to use water from pump rooms and cylinders for watering house plants, because... You don’t know its composition, and such water can harm the plant.
Since tap water is alkaline in most cases, it must be neutralized. If this is not done, the soil becomes alkalized over time, as a result of which the root system of plants suffers. To neutralize the alkaline reaction aquatic environment, it needs to be slightly acidified. To do this, just add edible citric acid to the water for irrigation at the rate of 1 teaspoon of citric acid per 5 liters of water. Citric acid is added to warm water immediately before watering.
2. What temperature should the water be for irrigation? 
Watering house plants with cold water is unacceptable, because... When watering with such water, the vessels of the plant root system narrow, and as a result, moisture and nutrition are poorly supplied to their upper part, the root gradually dies and the plant may die. Watering with cold water flowering plants may cause flowers and ovaries to fall off.
Cold water can and should be used to water plants that are in a dormant period. This prevents premature vegetation and depletion of the plant. To water plants that have stopped growing during winter dormancy, use water colder than the air temperature in the room, sometimes even water with snow.
In all other cases optimal temperature water for watering house plants is +30–34 °C, so the water needs to be slightly heated, even in summer. Watering with such water has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of plants.
3. What is the water consumption for watering plants?
The plant needs to be watered throughout the entire volume of the flowerpot in small portions so that the soil is saturated with water from top to bottom. You need to water until water appears in the pan. In this case, you can be sure that both the upper and lower parts of the root system will receive sufficient quantity moisture. After 30 - 40 minutes, the water is removed from the pan. During this time, the root system of the plant will have time to absorb the moisture that it did not have time to absorb during watering. Leave the water for more for a long time it is impossible, otherwise you can provoke rotting of the root system. If the flowerpot is large and cannot be lifted, you can remove water from the tray using a syringe, sponge, or moisture-absorbing wipes.
4. When should I water next?
How many times to water house plants is a question that requires an individual approach. The frequency of watering depends on the type of plant, the volume of the flowerpot, the composition of the soil, the activity of the root system and weather conditions. On cloudy and cool days, plants are watered less often than on clear and sunny days; When the indoor air is dry and warm, plants need to be watered more abundantly than when the air is humid and colder; plants in light and loose soil require more frequent watering than those growing in dense, heavy soil.
How to calculate watering? The best guideline for deciding on watering is when the earthen clod dries out. The signal for the need for watering is the drying of the top layer of soil by 1.5 - 2 cm. Succulent plants are watered after the earthen ball has dried to a depth of 3 - 10 cm (the larger the container, the greater the depth the soil should dry out).
But what if it is not possible to water the plants in a timely manner (for example, during the holidays)? How to leave flowers without watering? Will they be able to withstand such stress? Read about how to properly organize watering during a vacation or business trip.
Proper watering of indoor plants is the key to their active growth, and in some specimens, vigorous flowering. If your home collection contains cultures different types, then, of course, you cannot approach them “with one brush.” Some drink water with a vengeance, others are content with infrequent watering, and still others indoor plants (for example, succulents) prefer to be left alone and approached with a watering can as rarely as possible. And of course, don’t forget that “cleanliness is the key to health”: all “green pets” need regular washing and dust removal. Indoor trees that have grown almost to the ceiling; pots with lush hanging plants; a window with exotic orchids or a sea of azaleas and violets of various colors... Everything can easily be turned into reality if you follow some tips on watering, spraying, washing, fertilizing and replanting house plants. Proper watering of indoor flowers is the most important and at the same time the most difficult task in caring for plants. Unfortunately, there are no exact universal recommendations for watering. How often you need to water your home flowers depends on many different individual factors: individual characteristics of the crop, location, time of year, and so on. In this article you will learn the best way to water indoor plants, how often to do it, how to spray house flowers, wash and clean them from dust.
Why do you need to water flowers at home?
First, you need to understand why watering indoor plants is necessary. Plants need water for various reasons. Firstly, this is the main component tissues: some plants, primarily herbaceous plants with soft stems, consist of up to 90% water. Water also has a nutritional function. The mineral salts contained in the soil are dissolved in it, and it carries them from the roots to the leaves of plants. And finally the water plays important role during respiration: it evaporates through the stomata located on the underside of the leaves and humidifies the air surrounding the plant. What happens if you don’t regularly water your indoor flowers? If home plant If watering is not enough, then, as practice shows, leaves and flowers become flabby and drooping, and the stems of herbaceous species fall off. Then the leaves wither and fall off. In plants that usually contain a lot of water, with a lack of moisture, you can observe a clearly noticeable wrinkling of the entire plant. But before, with the above-mentioned symptoms, you immediately grab a jug of water and water your indoor plants as much as possible, with all your heart, you need to think about the fact that excessive watering of house flowers, leading to excess moisture, is also harmful to crops, and the same symptoms appear the same as with a lack of moisture. Why this happens can be explained simply: with excessive watering and spraying of indoor plants, all the pores in the soil that previously contained air are filled with water. In such a case, botanists talk about “stagnant waterlogging of the soil.” In such soil, which does not contain air, the root system can no longer function normally and absorb water. When houseplants are overwatered, the supply to the upper part of the plant stops, it dries out, while the lower part “sinks.” You can find out how sensitively plants react to waterlogging and drying out of the soil from the recommendations for caring for individual species. The next section of the article is devoted to how often you need to water indoor flowers, and by what factors you can distribute the level of water consumption.How often should you water indoor flowers: factors for water consumption by house plants
Precisely because for proper watering There are no uniform recipes for home flowers; you should familiarize yourself with some basic rules, which are discussed below. They will help develop the sense of proportion necessary for watering. How often you need to fertilize and when to replant crops can be determined exactly. But the frequency of watering depends on so many reasons that you will only find approximate information in books. You will learn whether the plant should be watered a lot or a little. How often you need to water your indoor plants is determined by the following factors.- Pot material. The same plant in a clay pot requires more water than in a plastic pot, as water evaporates through the porous clay walls.
- . A plant in a large pot needs more water than a plant in a small one.
- Location. On a southern window, plants most often require more water than on less lit eastern, western, and even more so northern ones.
- Temperature. IN warm room plants require more water than in cool conditions.
- Weather. On a hot summer day, the plant needs more water than on a cool and rainy day. In the heat, plant leaves evaporate more water, which means you need to water indoor flowers more often during this period, as experienced plant growers advise.
- Season. During the growing season (for most species, spring and summer), when plants form leaves and flowers, they require more water than during the dormant period (usually winter), when growth stops.
When to water indoor flowers: time to water house plants
To correctly determine the time to water indoor flowers, you need to check the soil moisture. There are all sorts of ways to do this:- Simplest method: Press your thumb into the ground about 1 cm from the surface. If your finger still feels moisture, then you can wait until watering.
- Professional method(clay pots only): Take the pot in your hand and tap the side of the pot. If the clay rings, you need to water it. If the sound is muffled, it means there is still enough moisture in the ground.
- Technical method: specially designed moisture meters are immersed in the ground. They will indicate when the soil is too dry.
Rules for watering indoor plants in winter
It is very important that you change your watering schedule around the end of September. At this time, most plants begin a dormant period when growth almost completely stops. Plants absorb less moisture from the soil. To avoid stagnant waterlogging, water much less frequently. It is best to remember the three main rules for watering indoor plants in winter:- Rule one. The colder the plant is in winter, the less it needs to be watered.
- Rule two. Watering at home those flowers that needed water daily in summer should be done once every three days in winter.
- Rule three. WITH blooming in winter This is not the case with species such as azaleas (Rhododendron). Such plants require slightly more water throughout the flowering period.
The best way to water indoor flowers: what water to use for watering house plants
In those days, when rainwater was ideal for watering indoor plants, this topic could be quickly closed. Today everything looks different. In most areas, what falls from the sky is more to the detriment of houseplants than to the benefit - so much harmful substances contains rain. So what kind of water should you water your indoor flowers so as not to harm your “green pets”?If you still want to use rainwater, you should start collecting it half an hour or even an hour after the rain starts. Then it will contain less unnecessary impurities of foreign substances.In terms of harmful compounds, tap water for watering indoor flowers is considered less problematic, but it also has one major drawback: it contains lime, and most plants cannot tolerate excess calcium. Water hardness is given in German degrees of hardness (°dH). In this case, 10dH means that 1 liter of water contains 1 mg of lime. You can find out the hardness of your tap water at a waterworks or have a water sample analyzed in a laboratory. Water hardness up to 9 °dH does not cause problems for most indoor plants. Hardness between 9° and 12°dH can be reduced by settling or boiling the water. Water hardness above 12 °dH is undesirable for all plants. If you know what kind of water to water your indoor plants, but the tap water in your home is too hard, you should definitely soften it, because not a single plant can tolerate high concentrations of lime. To do this, the following measures should be taken:
- When the hardness is between 10° and 12 0dH, it is enough to boil the water; in this case, lime is deposited in the form of plaque on the walls of the container.
- In stores you can buy jugs with ion exchange filters that soften water. Filters should be changed periodically.
- Liquid or powder water softeners are suitable for softening large volumes of water.
How to water house plants: methods of watering indoor flowers
Regular watering in small doses does not bring anything good to plants. In this case, water penetrates only into the top layer of the earth. The main part of the roots that absorb water is located in the lower third of the pot. You need to water thoroughly. Most plants should be watered thoroughly - until the water comes out of the bottom hole - after about half an hour, drain the water from the pan again so that the plant does not get its feet wet.It is important to monitor the water temperature. Ice water can shock most plants so much that the leaves wilt.Ideal water is at room temperature, which corresponds to the temperature of the earth in flower pot. Reaching such a temperature does not represent big problem: you only need to fill the jug in the evening for watering the next day. Overnight the water temperature will become equal to room temperature. Nice by-effect: excess chlorine will evaporate from the water. Watering time– also an important condition for normal plant growth. Water in the morning if possible. If you water in the evening, the soil and leaves will remain damp for a long time, which often causes fungal diseases. There are two ways to water indoor flowers: from above or from below. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages:
- Watering from below. If you cannot wet the leaves of a plant, for example Saintpaulia ionantha, if the plant does not like cold water If it grows outside the pot like Soleirolia soleirolii, then it is preferable to pour water into the tray of the pot. Together with water, fertilizer salts also rise to the top layer of soil, where they accumulate. Often on the surface of the earth after this appears white coating. In such cases, you should periodically use the method of watering indoor plants from above or remove the top layer of soil substrate.
- Watering from above. With regular watering from above, directly onto the surface of the substrate, the soil is better saturated with moisture, and nutrients are distributed optimally. But at the same time, the water should be evenly distributed over the surface, otherwise depressions will quickly form through which the water flows without saturating the entire lump.
Rules for spraying indoor flowers at home
A type of additional provision of moisture to plants is spraying indoor plants with sprayed water. Spraying does not compensate for the lack of watering, and additional watering does not replace spraying. Water is sprayed onto plants in order to increase humidity in the immediate vicinity of the leaves and thereby reduce evaporation. It is especially necessary to spray home flowers on hot summer days, as well as in winter in apartments with central heating. For spraying indoor flowers, the same rules apply as for watering:- Avoid irrigating plants in the midday heat; drops of water on the leaves turn into magnifying glasses and cause burns.
- When spraying house plants, do not spray ice water.
- If possible, use soft water with a low lime content, otherwise unsightly lime spots will appear on the leaves.
How to water flowers sensitive to lime at home
If you have flowers that are sensitive to lime, they require special watering.
Azalea ( Rhododendron simsii) . During flowering, bathe once every 2 weeks; do not spray flowers; put in a cool place; feed lightly; grow in non-carbonate soil.
Brunfelsia ( Brunfelsia pauciflora) . Blooms in late winter purple flowers; cannot stand the sun; do not forget about the drainage layer; Do not spray the flowers - they become spotty.
(Anthurium). It does not tolerate lime at all and is sensitive to increased concentrations of salts in the soil; take softened, heated water; feed lightly; do not spray the flowers.
(Gardenia jasminoides). Wonderful, fragrant flowers; but a very sensitive plant; It blooms better if it is in a cooler place during the budding period; spray frequently, but not the flowers.
Camellia ( Camellia) . Flowers range from white and pink to bright red, plain or interspersed; avoid temperature changes; in summer he likes to stand outside; Spray daily in winter.
Aglaonema ( Aglaonema). Similar to Dieffenbachia, but requires more care; does not tolerate direct sun; likes to always stay warm; needs high air humidity; plant in wide, low pots.
Calathea ( Calathea). A beautiful single plant with a distinctive leaf pattern; should be warm all year round; high humidity air and heat soil; loose soil; good drainage of the pot.
Usambara violet ( Saintpaulia). Endless variety of colors, including two-tone, smooth or curly leaf edges, beautiful mini plants; do not spray leaves; Water only from below.
Araucaria ( Agaikapa). Requires a lot of space to spread branches; do not place in bright sun; keep in a cooler place in winter; spray frequently; feed only lightly.
Bromeliads ( Bromeliaceae) .These are attractive exotic plants that arrived in our apartments from Brazil.
All plants of this species, such as:
Ekhmeya ( Aechmea)
Neoregelia ( Neoregelia)
Nidularium ( Nidularium)
They have some features that you should consider, and they will help you when caring for these plants. Bromeliads form with their long pointed leaves, which are arranged in a circle, something like a funnel or rosette. It should be filled with water, depending on the type, all year or only during the growth period. It is recommended to update the water in the funnel approximately every two weeks.
Over- or under-watering indoor plants
It often happens every now and then that the plant receives too little or too much water. Before watering your houseplants, learn about what happens when you overwater or underwater. Insufficient watering. If a plant's leaves or flowers fall off, the edges of the leaf blades become brown, and the leaves themselves look dull, then all these symptoms are signs of a lack of water. Rare watering of home flowers usually occurs during the owners' vacation. If you returned quickly and managed to react in time, then the plant can still be saved. A plant can dry out even when it is watered regularly, but never enough. In this case, the earthen lump dries out, a void appears between it and the walls of the pot, through which water flows down without even wetting the soil.What to do? First, carefully loosen the top layer with a fork and press the soil with your hands to the edges of the pot. Then bathe: immerse the pot to the brim in a bucket of water and keep it there until air bubbles stop rising. At the same time, spray the above-ground part of the plant with water mist. After this, the plant is placed in a cool place. After half an hour, empty the pan of water!Excessive watering. The first sign of excess water is the moss that covers the ground. What to do? In such cases, it is often enough not to water the plant for several days and dry it slightly. What to do in serious situations? It becomes difficult when spots appear on the leaves, the ground is thoroughly wet and smells sour - the roots are already rotting. In this case, you can try the following treatment:
- Spread in shady place apartments have a lot of newspapers;
- Remove the plant from the pot and place it on newspapers to dry;
- Only a few days later, after the soil has dried out somewhat, transplant it into the pot again;
- If at the same time you find brown tips of the roots, they should be cut off.
Second pots, no matter what, have one big drawback: water often accumulates in them unnoticed. As a result, up to half of the inner pot is in water, which causes stagnant waterlogging, which is unacceptable for the plant, because the roots rot, and soon the flower can be thrown away.Check for water between the pots some time after watering. Place a layer of pebbles at the bottom of the outer vessel, on which you place the pot.
Indoor plants that love abundant spraying and watering
Now check out how to water flowers at home that love plenty of moisture.
Reed ( Sdrpus cernuus). Light green ornamental grass; white flowers the size of a pinhead; no special requirements regarding location; there should always be water in the pan; spray frequently.
(Hydrangea) . Due to the large soft leaves the plant consumes a lot of water, especially in summer; use only softened water at room temperature; During the dormant period, water less.
Decorative asparagus, asparagus ( Asparagus) . A well-known green element in bouquets; requires constantly moist roots in summer; In winter, water less, especially if the plant is in a cool place.
Indoor bamboo, pogonaterum ( Pogonatherum) . Refers to very thirsty plants; If leaves curl, water immediately; on hot days, spray frequently; There is always water in the pan.
Indoor calla lily ( Zantedeschia). Comes from the swampy areas of Africa; during the period of growth and flowering, it requires a lot of water; from June to early August, water less; Requires a lot of light for flower development.
satiate ( Cyperus) . Looks beautiful in aquariums too; like a marsh plant must always have its roots in the water; It tolerates heat in winter, but needs frequent spraying.
Watering indoor plants in the absence of owners: how to water house flowers during vacation
If you need to leave and there is no neighbor who could occasionally water the flowers, then you need to ensure that the plants are self-maintaining. This is possible, at least for some time. Watering indoor plants in the absence of owners can be done using homemade water supply systems. The following methods have proven themselves well and do not require large expenditures:- Thick threads: arrange pots of flowers around a bucket or large pan of water. Take long lamp wicks or cotton threads and stick one end into the soil of the pots. The second end is lowered into the bucket. If the threads are pre-wetted, the flow of water will improve.
- Greenhouse from a bag for plants who need high humidity air. A greenhouse from a bag will serve as an excellent option for moistening flowers during the holidays.
Plants that are left alone should be moved into the shade. Before leaving, you need to remove not only all withered and faded buds, but also all unopened buds.If you want to save yourself from such problems with watering as too much or too little, today or tomorrow, you can transplant all your plants into pots with automatic water supply. They are containers with a double bottom where a reservoir of water is located. Through a wick or similar device, the plant itself takes in exactly as much water as it needs. Naturally, such a device only works as long as you remember to replenish your water supply. This must be done every 14 days. But for the period of a short vacation, your plant is provided with water. The last section of the article is devoted to how to wash indoor plants.
Methods for washing and cleaning home flowers
Dust and dirt accumulate both on furniture and on plant leaves. As a result, small pores become clogged and the plants can no longer breathe normally. In nature, rain washes plants, but indoors you need to take care of this. At least once a year, and preferably more often, a general cleaning is required. Depending on the size of the plant, you can use different methods:- Shower: It is best to transfer all not too large specimens to the bath. Rinse the leaves thoroughly in the shower (lukewarm water, not a strong stream) from top to bottom. Before washing the flowers, so that the soil does not get completely wet, it should be covered with film.
- Wash dust: from large plants that cannot be transferred to the bath; it is necessary to wipe with a soft sponge dipped in warm water, leaf by leaf (provided that they do not have hair). The leaves should be held on the reverse side with your other hand to prevent them from breaking off.
- Wipe the leaves first, otherwise dust will stick to them.
- Apply the product only to the upper surface of the leaves and never to the lower surface.
- Young shoots and leaves should not be treated.
- Plants with pubescent leaves do not tolerate such drugs, as do ferns, Howeia, and Dracaena.