Early spring flowers bulbous muscari. Muscari: growing in the garden and storing bulbs

Everyone loves spring in their own way...for its tenderness, warm air, gentle sun rays, first and very modest flowers. Muscari is one of the first to be ready to give people their beauty and charm. How much joy they bring us, emerging from the cold land in early spring, replacing primroses. White, sky blue, dark blue, pink bell-shaped flowers, forming a small pyramid, like porcelain, pressed closely together. This is what cheerful and touching muscari looks like.

Muscari - because it has an alluring, strong aroma of musk. And mouse hyacinth is due to its miniature size, as if for small mice, and its close relationship with real hyacinth. Viper Bow– for the onion, which looks like a real onion and its toxicity. Near the clumps of these flowers you can often meet a whole family of vipers; they bask in warm meadows where muscari often grow.

Birds avoid pecking the viper onion - it is poisonous to them. Its English name means grape hyacinth - for its inflorescences, which in appearance resemble a bunch of grapes. The French call muscari earthen lilac. The variety of affectionate names hints that muscari viper onion has long been loved by many peoples of different countries.

Muscari came to Europe by chance back in the 17th century. In ancient times, off the coast of the Netherlands, during a storm, a merchant ship carrying strange goods from warm countries crashed on the reefs. The ship sank, and the bulbs were washed ashore by the waves and they sprouted. Thus, the inhabitants of Europe learned about the extraordinary flowers that can be grown from a tiny bulb.

These primroses look incredibly beautiful in the awakening garden, following the curves of the paths with cheerful streams. Curtains of muscari, like bouquets of small ones on long branches, like pieces of the sky, appear in flower beds here and there. Arrangers happily use them to compose their compositions.

Muscari is a genus of perennial bulbous plants belonging to the Asparagus family, which includes 44 species. Some are cultivated as ornamental plants, and there are many varieties of muscari with a variety of flower colors. Their bulbs are small, ovoid, up to 2 cm in diameter.

The plant is an ephemeroid; it is in a dormant state for more than half the year, only awakening briefly to decorate the world. During growth, the bulb, covered with light outer scales, accumulates nutrients that it uses when flowering in early spring. In spring, narrow linear leaves appear, collected in a basal rosette and low peduncles. Some species have leaves that appear in the fall and remain overwintered under the snow.

Muscari yellow Golden Fragrance Muscari macrocarpum ‘Golden Fragrance’ photo

Flowers with a barrel-shaped, cylindrical or tubular perianth, consisting of 6 fused petals, are collected in a racemose inflorescence, which has a subtle stimulating aroma. 6 stamens are attached to the perianth in two rows, the fruit is a three-locular capsule with wrinkled, dark seeds, which are used for seed propagation within a year after collection. Distributed throughout Europe, North Africa, Western Asia, and the Mediterranean. Some climb high into the mountains.

Growing conditions How to plant and care for muscari

Muscari multiply very quickly, forming luxurious flower carpets. Over the course of a season, one mother bulb forms an entire nest. One rule for everyone garden species should be observed - they do not tolerate stagnation of melt water and lowlands. Otherwise, muscari grows without problems in any area. Has nothing to do with the sun's rays of great importance, since the period of their active growing season occurs at a time when the rest of the green fellows in the neighborhood are just about to wake up from hibernation and in no way interfere with our upstarts.

When planting, you should expect that mouse hyacinth will grow without replanting for several years in one place, and it is good to fill the soil with organic matter and compost.
Add a little sand to the bottom of the planting holes.
The bulbs are buried to a height equal to three of their diameters.
Watering is not relevant for viper onions - there is enough moisture in the ground after the snow melts.
If the plants have not been replanted for several years, they should be fed with complex fertilizer during the flowering period, after thoroughly moistening the soil.

Why don't muscari bloom?

If there is a deterioration in flowering or its complete cessation– the plant is just putting out leaves, this is the impetus that it’s time to replant and divide the clump.

It should be borne in mind that the place in muscari may already be empty at the beginning of summer; it can be occupied by annual representatives of the natural kingdom or combined planting with other perennial plants that bloom much later.

Do I need to dig up the muscari? How mouse hyacinth overwinters

Winter-hardy ones do not require special treatment when preparing for wintering. If you are not sure that the planted variety is winter-hardy, it is enough to cover the planting site with spruce branches, fallen leaves or any covering material. There is no need to dig up viper onions, unless you are going to force flowers at home.

Mouse hyacinth at home

Muscari flowers planting and care at home photo Muscari at home in a pot

Muscari is actively used for distillation. Only the healthiest, largest bulbs are suitable for this. They are dug up after the leaves have disappeared from the surface of the earth, cleaned of soil residues, sorted, dried at room temperature and stored until September. Purchased bulbs do not need to be processed - they are already ready for planting.

The main condition when growing mouse hyacinth on windowsills is the correct temperature.
First, they are stored in dry sawdust or wrapped in paper or cotton wool.
Muscari are kept at low temperatures for 3-4 months.
They are kept in cool conditions with a temperature of 9 degrees for 35 days, then the temperature is reduced to 5 degrees.
Two weeks before the end of the cold period, dense planting is placed in pots with a regular earthen substrate, deepening the bulbs by 2 cm, so that the top of the head sees the light.
After the allotted time, the pots are transferred to a warm, bright windowsill.
The soil is watered moderately. Flowering will occur in 15 days– the lower the temperature in the room where the muscari are located, the longer the flowering will continue.
After forcing the plants, they can be buried in the garden.

When to replant muscari? Reproduction by children

Muscari is very simple. Usually this operation is combined with a transplant. First of all, you should use pegs to mark the place from where you will transplant the plants. Since by the time of transplantation there will be no traces of them on the ground, the plants are dormant. When to plant muscari? They've been doing this since mid-summer so that the bulbs have time to take root before wintering.

Carefully dig up a lump of earth with a shovel in the noticed place and break it, separating the bulbs. They are carefully sorted, removing diseased and dry ones.
The bulbs are sorted by size; large ones can be left for forcing; the smaller the bulb, the closer they are located to each other.
Very small ones can be placed next to each other, several at a time.
Planting muscari looks more attractive if the plants are arranged in groups. To do this, you can make grooves in the shape of a circle, or lay out the bulbs in flocks, for example, 3 pieces side by side, 10 cm 3 more, etc.

Plant in prepared soil to which humus is added. They make grooves, pour a 2 cm layer of sand onto the bottom and spill it with water. The bulbs are laid out along the furrow, covered with compost on top. The more nutritious the soil at the planting site, the faster the muscari will grow and the more colorful the flowering will be.

Planting muscari in spring

Sometimes you have to replant muscari at the wrong time - during flowering, in the spring. They sometimes actively grow and interfere with other crops. Carefully dig up a flock of muscari with a shovel and transfer it to a more convenient place, which is prepared in advance by adding organic fertilizers. A hole is made according to the size of an earthen lump with muscari, which is carefully transferred directly on a shovel, sprinkled with soil around the circumference. After this, water the plants thoroughly. Usually, with this method of transplantation, muscari bloom again next spring without problems.

The video will tell you how to plant muscari in the spring:

For all unplanned transplants, so that the plants suffer less, it is better to replant them in the evening, watering them abundantly. If possible, it is better to shade the planting in the first week.

Growing muscari from seeds

Most muscari species reproduce by self-sowing. When kept under cultivation, this type of propagation is rarely used - flowering will occur only after 4 years.

You can use your own seed material.
The seeds are allowed to ripen and in the fall, after harvesting, they are sown in the garden.
At seedling method stratification is used (keep the seeds in the refrigerator for about 3-4 months before planting, be sure to moisten them and wrap them in wet cloth, placing it in a bag). good time to start stratification - October. In February, carefully plant the seeds in containers.
Seeds are planted to a depth of 1 cm.
Caring for seedlings requires careful attention - weeds, soil crust, and poor soil are unacceptable. All this negatively affects their development.
Watering is moderate to prevent root rot.
At the end of March, hardening is carried out, leaving the seedlings outside to get used to normal conditions. In early to mid-April, when the soil is ripe, the seedlings are planted in a permanent place.

Diseases and pests

Sometimes they can be affected by diseases and pests. Aphids are familiar to all gardeners. The primary source of aphids are garden ants, which spread them throughout the area and create entire colonies of these pests. Fighting ants is the key to the absence of aphids. To combat aphids, use a soap solution. It forms and adheres to plants, forming protective film which prevents the spread of aphids.

The soap solution can be used as prophylactic against any pests. For this piece laundry soap rub on a fine grater, dry, pour the resulting powder into a container and use it as needed. It is added to water 1 tbsp. spoon onto a bucket, stir thoroughly and irrigate any plants from a watering can after watering. For greater effect, you can use tar soap or add birch tar to the composition. If you use this product constantly, the pests will forget the way to your site.

Spider mites leave a thin network of cobwebs on the leaves. An insecticide is used to combat it.

Field mice love to eat mouse hyacinth bulbs. To deter them, you can plant strong-smelling or thorny plants nearby.

Aphids and spider mite can carry diseases. The most dangerous diseases are mosaic or onion yellow dwarf virus. The leaves of such plants turn yellow without time, have a depressed appearance, and have whitish stripes and specks. Affected flowers cannot be treated. They are dug up and destroyed so that the disease does not spread further.

Application

Muscari is not used in official medicine. They have many beneficial properties, but due to their toxicity they are used in traditional medicine only externally. In some Asian countries they are used as a wound-healing, analgesic, and rejuvenating agent. Essential oil is used in cosmetology as an antiseptic, bactericidal, anti-inflammatory, and disinfectant. Effective as an aphrodisiac.

With the arrival of spring, these tiny plants fill our gardens and plots, delighting with graceful inflorescences that repeat the azure of the spring sky. Muscari are great in mass plantings in flower beds. Incredibly combined with beautiful flowering shrubs in mixborders. They should be planted under large trees to revitalize the tree trunks. Their blue color makes a wonderful addition to daffodils, tulips, primroses, and irises in miniature flower arrangements.

Muscari in vases look elegant and bright. For the New Year holidays they are used for forcing. Blue tassels of earthen lilac fit perfectly between large plants, they are very impressive in multi-tiered compositions. Many people consider muscari a shabby plant that does not deserve any attention. But there are a great many such plants in our gardens, and with good care they serve as better decorations than many newfangled flowers that still need to be accustomed to our conditions. And muscari bloom and delight the eye every spring, without causing any problems to their owners.

Types and varieties of muscari with photos and descriptions

Armenian Muscari Muscari armeniacum

Grows on the plains of Transcaucasia and Turkey. The bulb is 2.5 cm in diameter and produces linear leaves, narrowed at the top. The peduncle is 20 cm long and bears a multi-flowered, almost spherical inflorescence with several sterile flowers at the top. The perianth with a constriction at the throat is bright blue with white teeth. The upper sterile flowers are lighter. Blooms in spring, overwinters without foliage, winter-hardy without shelter. Most common among amateur gardeners. Breeders worked for several centuries to create many varieties with different flower shapes and colors - their efforts were crowned with success.

Variety Blue Spike– bred in Holland at the end of the last century. The cluster-shaped inflorescences contain 150 – 180 blue fragrant flowers. Blooms two weeks later than usual, does not bear fruit. When emerging from the ground it looks like a dark lump. Propagated by daughter bulbs. An unusually beautiful and unpretentious plant, used both for decorative decoration gardens, and for making compositions from cut flowers. If the weather is cool, then you can enjoy the blooming of terry bouquets for about three weeks. Suitable for . Winters well.

Variety Cantab- miniature form with bright blue flowers. A wintering variety that is very popular among gardeners.

Christmas Pearl variety– garden mouse hyacinth with dark purple flowers. An amazing fresh musky scent accompanies long-lasting flowering.

Armenicum muscari fantasy creation muscari fantasy creation photo in a flower bed

Fantasy Creation variety– is distinguished by the segmented color of the perianth, smoothly changing from green to blue. Flowering continues for a long time. The flowers are double and fragrant.

Variety Dark Eyes– amazingly dark, cornflower blue color with white splashes. Looks great mixed with lighter types.

Muscari Oshe or Tubergen Muscari aucheri = Muscari tubergenianum

It grows in the North-West of Iran. Blue flower stalks with a pale jagged edge are collected in inflorescences up to 18 cm high. Overwinters without shelter. Does not tolerate stagnation of melt water. The 'Tubergenianum' variety is distinguished by crescent-shaped leaves and lighter buds at the top.

Muscari botryoides

Muscari flowers perennial variety Muscari botryoides ‘Album’ photo

Known since 1576. Small sky blue, blue-violet or white flowers are collected in large inflorescences with a delicate aroma. On loose, rich soils it develops into lush bushes. Variation Album resembles a scattering of pearls, Corneum is a pink cloud swaying on a stem.

Muscari crested Muscari comosum

Original from Southern Europe, North Africa, is considered a weed in the places where it grows. The peduncle arrow appears in June from a rosette with 3-4 strap-shaped leaves. The flowers are collected in a loose cluster with a tuft, which is a bunch of sterile bright purple bells on long stalks. Fruiting pitcher-shaped flowers are light brown with a cream edging. The height of the plant at full flowering is about 70 cm. Daughter bulbs are formed weakly - it reproduces due to abundant fruiting and self-seeding.

This type of muscari looks great on lawns, in flower beds with perennial flowers, against the background of a lawn. A popular variety is ‘Plumosum’, which is distinguished by purple inflorescences on highly branched stems.

Muscari latifolium latifolium

Inhabitant of forest edges of Asia Minor. An oval bulb with lanceolate leaves and a peduncle about 22 cm long. Multi-flowered inflorescence with purple flowers below and blue flowers at the top of a dense cluster. This heat-loving species blooms at the beginning of May. The leaves of this specimen look like tulips.

Long-flowered Muscari Muscari dolichanthum

It blooms at the end of April with azure flowers. The ovoid bulb bears 4-6 ribbon-like leaves and a flower arrow 14-16 cm high. The perianth has white cylindrical teeth. Originally from the mountain belt of Western Transcaucasia.

A native of the low-lying areas of the Black Sea region and Iran. It blooms in April with an inflorescence consisting of 40 ultramarine flowers edged with whitish teeth.

Muscari macrocarpum

The species is distinguished by its rather large flowers. There are blue, yellow, brown varieties. He is originally from Greece and Western Turkey. In our latitude, it is recommended for growing in pots, brought into living quarters for the winter.

Muscari pale Muscari paiitns

The most elegant and miniature muscaricus comes from the subalpine meadows of the Caucasus. A pale blue perianth with white teeth adorns the plant. It winters well even in the northwestern territories of our country. The white-flowered variety ‘White-rose Beautu’ with white-pink flowers is known in cultivation. In Latvia, the ‘Sky Blue’ variety was developed with a sky-blue bottom and a white top of the inflorescence.

Muscari racemosum or unnoticed Muscari Rasemosum = Muscari neglectum

Primroses muscari blue growing and care When to plant Viper onion unnoticed photo

It differs little from its other brethren, except that its flowers are slightly larger and tightly pressed to the peduncle. Propagated by self-sowing and children.

Summer has flown by, which means it’s time to think about spring garden decoration. "Is not it too early?" - you might think. It's time! After a long, monochrome winter, the human eye craves color diversity and finds it in the spring flowering of delicate bulbous plants, among which muscari occupy a special place. These graceful blue “mice” exude a subtle signature musky aroma, as they are popularly called – viper onion, mouse hyacinth, and even grape hyacinth. But their botanical name has remained unchanged for centuries - muscari (lat. Muscári). They paint rocky hills, edges of flower beds, borders and potted areas with rich shades of blue. Simple agricultural cultivation techniques, undemanding soil conditions and high decorative properties allow muscari to become a constant spring guest in all our gardens.

Muscari are small-bulbous plants belonging to the asparagus family (Asparagaceae), although in earlier botanical reference books they were classified as hyacinths (Hyacinthaceae) or lilies (Liliaceae). IN wildlife they can be found in mountainous regions of Europe, Asia, Africa, Crimea, and the Caucasus. Muscari belongs to the perennial ephemeroids, since after a short growing season the above-ground parts of the plant die, and the bulb, having accumulated the necessary reserve nutrients, enters a period of rest.

The height of the plants does not exceed 25 cm, the bulbs are small, ovoid, with a diameter of no more than 2 cm. The basal rosette consists of 7–9 thin, straight leaves. The bare peduncle is crowned with small flowers collected in a dense spike-shaped raceme. The blue-violet palette of muscari has recently been diluted with created varieties of white, pink and pale yellow specimens.

Popular types and varieties of muscari

More than 40 types of muscari are known, and almost all of them are used in landscaping.

Varietal diversity allows you to create multi-colored clumps, extending the flowering period from April until June. We present some types of muscari that are most often used.

Armenian muscari (m.armeniacum)– a popular late-blooming species. Long flowering in May, mostly 3–4 weeks.

The most decorative varieties:

– a variety that does not form seed pods. Awarded in 1963. Double blue flowers are collected in a lush, very fragrant inflorescence, consisting of 150–170 flowers with branched pedicels. Plant height is up to 20 cm. During the season, the bulb forms up to 3 children.
– double flowers are green at the beginning of flowering, gradually becoming bright Blue colour, plant height up to 20 cm.
– pink-flowering variety up to 15 cm high.

Sapphire– dark blue flowers with a white border are collected in dense pyramidal inflorescences; they do not form seeds. Flowering is long, height is 15 cm. The variety has been repeatedly awarded.
Aes Duck– dense inflorescence of blue bells, height up to 20 cm.
Azerum– a variety of sky blue color, height up to 20 cm.
Superstar– numerous dark blue flowers with a white border form a long inflorescence. Height 25 cm.

– an unopened inflorescence resembles a green grape cluster. The flowers are variegated, blue with a white border along the edge, height no more than 15 cm. A very fragrant modern variety.
– a variety suitable for forcing, flowers are violet-blue, barrel-shaped, awarded an international award.
Peppermint– pyramidal inflorescences, pale blue with a white edge, height 15 cm. Modern variety, grows well.

Except popular type Armenian muscari and other species of this genus are widely used.

A striking representative of the European species is botryodes muscari and him popular variety with white lily-of-the-valley fragrant inflorescences that open at the end of April and bloom for more than 2 weeks. The height of this bush is 15 cm.

Muscari neglectum– the species is listed in the Red Book and has no varietal representatives. It differs from other species in its belt-shaped leaves and dark blue flowers with a light edge, similar in shape to lilies of the valley. Flowering in April, bush height up to 20 cm.

Large-fruited Muscari (Muscari makrokarpum)- a thermophilic species from the shores of the Aegean Sea and the adjacent coast of Turkey.

Popular variety:

Аurea Fregrans– purple unopened inflorescences turn into fragrant yellow flowers with brown border. Height up to 30 cm. In our latitudes it is grown only in greenhouses for forcing.

Broadleaf Muscari (Muscari latifolium)– the leaves resemble tulips. The inflorescence shows a surprisingly bright gradation from violet to sky blue. Several flower stalks can emerge from one bulb. Blooms in April, bush height 15 cm.

Muscari Oshe/Tubergenianum (Muscari aucheri/Tubergenianum)– blue and blue inflorescences have a sweet aroma, the height of the bush is up to 25 cm. Heat-loving, should be mulched for the winter.

Popular varieties:

Blue Magic- modern aromatic variety has sky blue flowers with a white tuft. It is very decorative - when forced, one bulb forms up to 7 peduncles. Flowering at the end of April, height 20 cm.
Magicae album– a popular white-flowering variety, ovoid inflorescences, plant height 20 cm.
Oceanus Magic– a modern two-color variety, the lower flowers are blue and the upper ones are white. Flowering late April – May. Suitable for forcing. Height 20 cm.

Agricultural technology for growing muscari

We choose a place. The main condition for planting muscari is the absence of stagnant water! Muscari grows on any soil and feels equally good in open sunny areas and in the shade, like an ephemeroid. Muscari do not need constant watering; the bulb itself already has enough moisture for the plant to live. But during a dry period or snowless winters, during a dry and windy spring, moderate watering promotes normal vegetation and the laying of a sufficient amount of nutrients for flowering.

Planting and care. The proposed planting site should be enriched with compost or complex mineral fertilizers for bulbous plants. Muscari, like all small-bulb bulbs, should be planted in groups of 10–30 pieces, planting depth no more than 7 cm. Muscari will look more beautiful in extensive plantings, so the more bulbs you plant, the brighter the effect will be.

Muscari will look more beautiful in extensive plantings.

If you doubt the accuracy of deepening the planting material, remember the general rule for all bulbous plants: the planting depth should correspond to three sizes of the bulb.

The bulbs can be placed at a distance of 5 cm from each other, but for decorative purposes it is better to stick to “natural plantings”. To do this, take a handful of muscari and simply throw them on the ground, as if you were sowing grain. Bury the scattered bulbs into the soil where they fell. You will appreciate the “random effect” in subsequent years of growth of these graceful flowers.

The worst enemy of muscari is mice, for whom this plant is a favorite delicacy. To protect your plantings from mouse attacks, plant garlic, prickly rosehip branches or onions between the bulbs; its pungent smell repels rodents. In the spring, sprouted garlic can be carefully pulled out of the curtain, and the imperial hazel grouse will not spoil the overall composition.
After flowering, watering should be stopped and faded peduncle heads should be cut off to prevent self-seeding.

To protect your plantings from mouse attacks, plant garlic, thorny branches of rose hips or imperial hazel grouse bulbs between the bulbs; its pungent smell repels rodents.

How to easily propagate muscari? Muscari can grow in one place for a very long time, but to preserve its decorative properties, plantings should be thinned out once every 5 years. You can replant muscari during flowering, but then it is important to ensure the integrity of the root system without destroying the lump. The overgrown nests of bulbs dug out after flowering are disassembled into separate sections and transplanted to another place.

Sorted healthy bulbs are stored in a cool, dry room until planting time, which occurs from late September to mid-November.

Muscari also reproduce well by seeds, however, in this case they will bloom only in the third year of the growing season. Freshly harvested seeds are immediately sown in the ground or prepared containers with light, fertile soil. Seedlings can only be replanted in the spring of next year.

Untimely flowering, or how to grow muscari on a windowsill

Muscari is great for forcing. To do this, in September, the largest bulbs are placed in containers with fertile, loose soil, moistened and left to take root in a cool, shaded place, for example, on a closed loggia or in the basement. If you are a city dweller, then you can plant muscari bulbs in a pot and cover the top with opaque film or a second empty pot, then store it in the refrigerator. Pawning flower bud occurs during the cooling period of the bulb, which averages 13–16 weeks. By this time you should add another two weeks for forcing. In this way, you can force the plant to bloom on the scheduled day.

If you want to New Year To surprise your loved ones with a bouquet of spring flowers, muscari bulbs should be planted in pots in August, left in a shaded greenhouse for rooting, and in early September transferred to the basement or put in the refrigerator. In early December, the pots can be placed on a cool windowsill.

muscari bulbs

For a gift bouquet on March 8, muscari is sent to a dark and cool place no later than November 10. They are set for forcing in early February. Remember that watering with warm water and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers speeds up the forcing process.

Using muscari in landscape design

Due to their unpretentiousness and endurance, muscari are indispensable companions in the design of spring rockeries, rock gardens, ridges, they are used as borders and dividing strips between the flowerbed and the lawn. Mouse hyacinth is planted as a free-standing monoclump, as well as in mixed plantings with other plants. They combine effectively not only with (tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, hazel grouse), but also with primroses such as primroses, forget-me-nots, pansies, horned violets. In order not to lose the decorative effect of the flowerbed after the muscari has faded, it is worth planting them together with lilies, astilbe, and ferns, which will cover them with their beautiful leaves vacant seats.

Finally - little advice. Even though November seems a long way off, oh planting material It's better to take care now. At the beginning of the seasonal sale, the varietal selection of bulbs is much wider than at a later date. Plan in advance and clear the future planting site of weeds, enrich the soil with compost, and then autumn bad weather will not be able to interfere with the timely planting of muscari. Experiment with color, purchase, in addition to the usual blue muscari,. Remember that winter is just around the corner, and you need to prepare for it mentally and physically by adding “spring” to your garden in the form of delicate bulbous flowers in the fall!

Muscari (Armenian viper onion) is a flower from the Asparagus family (formerly Liliaceae). They call it snake onion, grape hyacinth. It is found near bushes, on plains, forest edges, and mountain slopes. Distribution area: Caucasus, Crimea, Europe, Western Asia, Mediterranean. Cultivated as decorative flower, grown on lawns, alpine hills, borders. The plant is classified as an ephemerophyte with a short growing season.

This perennial flower with cylindrical, oblong or barrel-shaped perianths. Blooms in April - May - 20 days. Flowers with six fused petals, collected in a brush, which is located on a high stem, in blue, white, light blue, azure, and cornflower blue shades. They have a subtle pleasant aroma. Basal, pointed leaves with parallel veining form rosettes up to 17 cm. Oval bulbs with light outer scales, 20 mm in diameter, 15-25 cm long.

Types, varieties of muscari

The most common of the 60 species:

Armenian (Colchis) - distinguished by two-color fragrant petals on a spherical inflorescence. Above they are dark blue with a white border, below they are lighter. The leaves are linear, narrowed, blooms at the end of May for 20 days. Grows in Transcaucasia, found in Turkey. An unpretentious winter-hardy variety.

Its varieties:

Terry Blue Spike - a cornflower blue inflorescence in the form of a cluster with up to 180 flowers. Blooms 2 weeks later than the others, does not bear fruit. They enjoy its appearance for three weeks, grow it in gardens, and make flower arrangements.
Christmas Pearl - dark purple flowers with a musky scent.
Fantasy Creation - characterized by changing colors from green to blue.
Venus is a new variety, translated as Venus, it has white flowers with a purple tint.
Cluster-shaped - sky blue, blue-violet, white small flowers. It has two varieties: Album - similar to pearls, Corneum - like a pink cloud. Grows in Central and Southern Europe.
Broadleaf - leaves similar to a tulip are wider than the others. Inflorescences are cylindrical, dark blue. Several flower stalks appear from one bulb. Found in Asia Minor.
Pale - low light blue flowers, similar to a bell. Grows in Caucasian meadows. From it came the popular White Rose (pink).
Crested - distinguished by bright purple flowers collected in a tuft, plant height up to 70 cm. The most famous of this species is Plumosum, which grows in Europe and North Africa.
Tubergena (Oshe) - sickle-shaped leaves, azure flowers, jagged along the edges up to 18 cm, white buds on top. Found in Iran.
Large-fruited - blue, yellow, brown flowers are larger than other varieties. Homeland - Greece, Western Türkiye.
Neglectum (unnoticed) - purple petals with a white border at the base and sky blue at the top.
Belozevny is an inflorescence of ultramarine color (includes forty flowers), the petals are edged with white teeth. A native of the Black Sea region, Iran.

Planting muscari in open ground

It consists of choosing a location, preparing the soil and applying fertilizers. The plant prefers sunlit areas, but also grows in the shade; it is not covered for the winter. The flower is not picky about the soil, it needs light or medium slightly acidic soil, and very attractive flowers grow on it.

Planted in the autumn (September - October), the plant takes root before flowering. Before planting, inspect each bulb and remove any rotten or damaged ones. They are treated with Fitosporin (or a solution of 2% karbofos, then with manganese). Large ones are placed to a depth of 8 cm, small ones are placed at a depth of 3 cm, and 5 to 10 cm are left between them. First, the soil is dug up, watered abundantly, and sand is poured into the holes.

If it was not possible to plant a flower in the fall, do it in the spring. When the snow melts, the purchased bulbs are divided and planted in a similar way. It will bloom next year.

Features of caring for muscari in open ground

Viper onions need moist soil; if there is no rainfall, water them in the morning. It is not planted in an open area where there is direct sunlight, in this case it is shaded by taller neighbors. Fertilize with humus in the spring (5 kg is required per 1 sq.m.), even when sprouts appear and buds form. When grown on a lawn, it is not cut until the flower leaves dry out.

Flowering and replanting

In early spring, during flowering, the soil is constantly loosened and weeded. Its duration is 3-4 weeks. Replanting is needed every 3-5 years or if the flowers lose their appearance.

After flowering

When the mouse hyacinth fades, remove the flower stalks and feed liquid mixtures containing potassium and phosphorus at the roots. In autumn they hardly water. Before winter, peat is used as mulch.

Preparing for winter, storing muscari bulbs

By winter, the bulbs are usually not dug up, only humus is added, the clusters are cut off, and the leaves are not torn off.

If the bulbs need to be dug up, only after the leaves have dried and stored under certain conditions:

Dry it.
Buried in peat or sand.
Rotten ones are regularly inspected and removed.
Store at +17 °C and humidity 70%.

Reproduction of muscari

Muscari reproduces by bulbs (about 30 children are formed) - they are carefully separated from the mother along with the soil, planted in the usual way. Flowering begins in the second year.

By seeds (this is what breeders do) - they collect the seeds at the bottom of the shoots, sow them in the fall, and the bulbs are formed in the spring. Flowers will appear after 3 years. Some varieties are sterile and cannot be propagated this way.

Diseases and pests affecting muscari

Muscari sometimes affects viral mosaics:

Onion - the leaves are narrowed, growth slows down.
Cucumber - pale green stripes and spots on the leaves, they are deformed.

When a mosaic is discovered, the affected hyacinths are dug up and immediately destroyed.

The flower is rarely attacked by pests:

Spider mites - use chemicals: Vermitek, Akorin.
The carrier of the mosaic is aphids; when they appear, they are immediately sprayed soap solution flowers.
Rust - brown spots on the leaves on both sides, sprayed with preparations: Ditan, Bayleton.

Mice can cause damage to the flower; they are fought with repellents.

Growing muscari at home

Muscari is often grown indoors. Prepare the bulbs:

They are stored for three months at +5 °C degrees.
Then at +9 °C for more than 30 days.
Planted in a container with drainage (soil made of sand, peat, compost) at a depth of 2 cm.
Keep at +5 °C for two weeks.
Then they put it in the light, where it is + 10 °C.
After three days, increase to +15 °C.

High temperatures shorten the flowering period. Watered with moderately soft water, it blooms after 14 days.

Loves bright lighting, high humidity, placed on eastern and western window sills.

Muscari in landscape design

The flower is widely used landscape designers, form alpine coaster, bright flower beds with different colors, borders, flower beds, fences, placed along paths, under ornamental shrubs, trees. They place flower pots on terraces and verandas.

Medicinal properties

Muscari petals have beneficial properties - they contain esters, flavonoids, organic acids, and ascorbic acid.

The plant is used as a wound-healing, bactericidal and aphrodisiac. ethnoscience Asian countries applies essential oil for the treatment of bronchitis, massage, aromatherapy, colds, insomnia.

The perfume industry also did not ignore this fragrant flower; its notes create the aroma of perfumes and are used in cosmetology.

At home, bouquets of mouse hyacinths are placed not only for beauty: the plant repels flies, mosquitoes, and midges. Cannot be used internally, the plant is poisonous.

Bulbous plants can be “forced” to bloom at almost any time of the year. To do this, you must create suitable conditions for them that imitate natural ones.

Most often, tulips, daffodils, crocuses and muscari are removed by a certain date. You need to select the bulbs and prepare them for forcing in the fall; only large and healthy ones will do.

General rules for setting up bulbs for forcing

Container for forcing

You can plant bulbs in any container - from pots to wicker baskets, plastic bags and glass vases:

the container should be low (but not lower than three times the height of the onion) and wide;
Place a layer of drainage (gravel, expanded clay) on the bottom of the pot, and then a substrate;
When planting bulbs in a basket, cover the bottom with film to prevent water from leaking out.

Planting bulbs for forcing

Before planting, the bulbs are freed from dry covering scales and planted in pots filled with loose soil (half earth and half sand). The bulbs should “sit” tightly in the soil, but not touch one another (distance up to 2 cm between the bulbs), the thickness of the substrate under them should be at least 5-8 cm.

In order for plants to look most decorative when in bloom (this mainly applies to tulips), the flat side of the bulb should be turned toward the wall of the pot, and not inward. Then the first one bottom sheet will be facing outwards. After planting, cover the bulbs with substrate (2.5 cm layer) and water. There is no need to add additional nutrients.

Place the planted bulbs in a cool place, such as a refrigerator or basement. Keep the substrate slightly moist. To do this, after watering, you can cover the container with a plastic bag and sometimes remove it to ventilate.

Forcing

Store planted plants in a cool, dark room with a temperature of +4...+9 °C and high humidity air for 10-16 weeks depending on the type.

When the bulbs take root and the sprouts extend 2.5-5 cm, remove the container from the refrigerator and place it in the light. If you rush and take the plant out of the dark when the leaves are just emerging, there may be no flowers.

setting up tulip bulbs for forcing for New Years

For the first few days, cover the sprouts with paper caps so that the stems grow a little taller. Then the daylight hours can be extended by 3-5 hours using a fluorescent lamp. Don't forget to water regularly.

About 2-5 weeks after you move the pots with forcing bulbs to a bright place, the first buds in the inflorescence will open.

5 secrets to success in forcing bulbs in winter

1. As large and healthy bulbs as possible.

For forcing, select the largest and heaviest bulbs.

Tulips- bulbs with a diameter of 3.5-4 cm (12+), weighing 25-30 g and correct form. For forcing, it is better to choose varieties with early and mid-flowering periods. The most suitable varieties are the following classes: simple early, Terry early, triumph tulips and Darwin hybrids.
Hyacinths- bulbs with a diameter of 5-5.7 cm or size 18/19, weighing 60-80 g. It is easier to grow bulbs of varieties with simple flowers.
Daffodils- bulbs with a diameter of more than 5 cm, you can use bulbs with a diameter of 4 cm or more:
- for large-flowered plants - 16/18;
- for miniature daffodils - 12/14.
Lilies- for Asian hybrids these are bulbs with a diameter of 3-6 cm and more (10/12 or 12/14 cm, less often 14/16), for Tubular hybrids - 3.5-7 cm in diameter and more, for Oriental hybrids - 2, 6-5 cm and more (14/16, 16/18).
Muscari, or mouse hyacinth,- bulbs with a diameter of 2 cm or more.
Scilla or scylla, - bulbs with a diameter of 2-2.5 cm. Three types of varieties are suitable for forcing:
two-leaved scilla, Siberian p. and Tubergena p.
Pushkinia scylloides- bulbs with a diameter of 2-2.5 cm.
Chionodoxa- bulbs with a diameter of 2-3 cm.
Snowdrop- bulbs with a diameter of 2-3 cm.

2. Cooling times are different for each crop.

Cooling at a temperature of about +4...+5 °C (this is the temperature maintained in the vegetable compartment in a regular refrigerator):

tulip- 11-18 weeks;
hyacinth- 10 weeks;
narcissus- 14-16 weeks;
muscari- 12-14 weeks;
snowdrop- 13-14 weeks;
scilla, or scylla, - 8-10 weeks;
Pushkinia- 10-12 weeks;
Chionodoxa- 8-10 weeks.

In autumn in flower shops and garden centers You can purchase special bulbs that have already undergone a cooling period under industrial conditions. You just need to plant them in a pot and wait for them to bloom.

3. The timing of forcing can be calculated

When calculating, do not forget to take into account the timing of foliage growth, and you will get the flowering time.

Time for foliage to grow in the light:

tulip- 3-4 weeks;
hyacinth- 1-2 weeks;
narcissus- 2-3 weeks;
muscari, snowdrop- 10-12 days;
Scilla, Pushkinia, Chionodoxa- 7-10 days.

For example, the forcing period for hyacinths is approximately 10 weeks of cooling + 1-2 weeks of regrowth =
11-12 weeks, or 2.5-3 months. This means that if you want to grow hyacinth by January 1, then the bulb must be planted in the first half of October.

4. Flowering lasts longer in cooler conditions.

To prolong the flowering of plants (up to 2 weeks), you should place the pot in a cool (+10...+12 °C) place at least at night.

5. Bulbs for forcing can only be used once

After forcing, the bulbs become smaller and are no longer suitable for recycling. The bulbs will be suitable for new forcing no earlier than after 2 years.

After flowering, remove the faded inflorescence so that the plant does not waste energy trying to form seeds.
Gradually reduce watering, stimulating yellowing of the leaves and the flow of nutrients into the bulb. When
the leaves turn completely yellow, the bulb is removed, dried at room temperature, and cleaned of old roots and covering scales.

Crocuses and daffodils can be planted in the ground as early as May, after the soil has thawed. The plants will not bloom this season; it is unlikely that they will produce full blooms next season.
year, but there is hope.

Bulbs of hyacinths and tulips will have to be stored until the beginning of September (at a temperature of about +25 ° C).

flowering forced crocuses on the windowsill in winter

Possible problems when forcing bulbs:

yellow or wilted leaves- drafts, improper watering or insufficient lighting;
slow growth of leaves and peduncles- insufficient rest period or low watering;
buds do not open- improper watering, possibly water getting on the buds;
deformed flowers of tulips and daffodils- unnecessarily heat during the rest period;
non-simultaneous flowering of bulbs- most often the reason for this is the incorrect selection of bulbs different sizes. If the bulbs were selected correctly, then the reason may be that the pot with the plants was not turned during the growing season (plant growth and budding period).