Self-installation of hinges on doors - a detailed guide. How to cut a recess for door hinges? Make small homemade loops

High-quality fittings - important condition long and stable operation door system. You just need to purchase loops of the appropriate size. If they are not available, they will come to the rescue homemade loops, which are manufactured independently, taking into account the parameters and weight of the sash. To do this, prepare tools and materials.

Self-made loop

Why choose homemade ones?

From manufactured in production conditions Many people refuse accessories in favor of homemade ones for several reasons. Such products:

• Withstands significant loads. What is relevant for garage doors and massive doors;
• Have required size. If the parameters of products manufactured in industrial conditions are standardized, then during production on our own choose the size you require;
• Possess high level reliability, since the fittings produced for ourselves have a high level of strength compared to those produced in factories. You can always choose a material with high mechanical properties and greater thickness.

We make loops with our own hands

The process of making loops is simple. In order for the fittings to turn out to be of high quality, you must be able to make them yourself. different kinds works

Preparing tools and materials

To make high-quality accessories at home, prepare suitable tool, materials and equipment. You must have the following tools and equipment:

• Tape measure or other measuring tool. Sometimes you can get by with a regular ruler, but in this case it must fully meet regulatory requirements;
• A marker that writes on metal. Instead of a marker, you can use chalk;
• A hacksaw with a blade for metal. Those who know how to use a grinder can use this equipment if it is available;
• File;
• Hammer;
• Welding machine with suitable technical characteristics, as well as means personal protection which are necessary to perform welding work.

Preparing the tool

Also prepare:

• Metal plate 2-3 mm thick;
• Pipe section;
• Steel rod. Its diameter is consistent with internal diameter piece of pipe. Select a rod so that it fits inside the pipe with a slight interference fit. From a rod whose size is smaller internal dimensions It’s better to refuse the pipe.

When choosing a material, pay attention to its characteristics. The plate, pipes and rod must withstand the applied operating load.

Manufacturing sequence

Initially, two sections of pipe are sawed off. Total length depends on size door leaf. So if it is 11 cm, you need to prepare the first piece of pipe 5 cm long. Before cutting the pipe the right size, carefully apply the markings. You will also need a piece of pipe whose length is 1 cm longer, i.e. - 6 cm. As a result, the total length is 11 cm.

After sawing off metal surface Burrs often form, which can cause injury during installation work. To prevent this from happening, remove defects with a file. Wear gloves to avoid damaging your hands. Perform processing on both sides.

Once the tubes are ready, the rod is prepared. Its length is total length pipes, that is, 11 cm. To do this, markings are applied to the surface of the rod and sawing is made. The cutting line must be perpendicular to the nominal axis of the rod.

After cutting the rod and pipes to size, they are connected together. To do this, a rod is pressed into the sleeve. Once the sleeves are in place, the plates are prepared. Their size is consistent with the dimensions of the door and the dimensions of the manufactured hinges. There should be two such plates, and they have the same length. On this preparatory stage ends. Moving on to welding work.

After making sure that the rod has taken the desired position inside the sleeve, the ends of both tubes are welded. This prevents the rod from moving inside the pipe during operation.

The plates are then welded to the sleeves. They are positioned perpendicular to the conventional axis of the sleeves. To do this, the plates are first grabbed, and then, after making sure of their correct spatial arrangement, they are finally welded.

Decoration

To make the manufactured hinges look beautiful, they are painted or galvanized. Both of these options allow you to give the surface a beautiful appearance, and also protect from external negative impact. To do this, the thickness of the applied coating must be sufficient for specific operating conditions.

After decoration, the fittings look almost the same as those sold by official manufacturers. In this case, you can always choose the color of the product that you require. So, if you can find fittings on sale, usually black, then hinges made in-house can be painted in any color. suitable color.

Ready-made accessories

Installation of hinges

After the fittings are completely ready, they are installed. To do this, one plate is screwed to the leaf, the second - to the door leaf. Fastening is done so that the plate with the upper sleeve is screwed to the door, and the second part to vertical rack boxes. During the installation process, the manufactured loop is assembled into a complete product.

Installation of hinges

To prevent jamming during operation, lubricant is added between the mating surfaces. The amount of lubricant should be sufficient so that the pin rotates easily inside the sleeves.

Installed fittings

Other options

Not everyone can boast of having welding machine at home. For others, such products turn out to be an expensive option, which is a pity to install on light door. In this case, the necessary fittings are made from scrap materials. Which option is suitable depends on the size of the door leaf and the material of the door leaf.

To do this, prepare a conveyor belt and metal plates. Their thickness can be relatively small. You can take metal whose thickness is not much greater than the thickness of the sheets that are used in the manufacture of cans. To fasten the fittings, prepare nails 4 - 5 cm long.

Installation of hinges is carried out by placing the canvas in doorway. Leave one centimeter between the vertical post and the door leaf on the side where the hinges will be located. Having fixed the position of the door, nail the hinges. To do this, first place a conveyor belt and metal plates on top. In this case, the conveyor belt acts as a flexible element that ensures the opening and closing of the sash.

Such fittings are suitable for lightweight doors that are installed at the entrance to a chicken coop or a place where rabbits are kept. Their distinctive feature there is no creaking during operation, as well as the possibility of operation without lubrication.

Thus, anyone can make loops on their own. Such fittings are suitable for garage doors and entrance doors. If you approach the manufacturing process responsibly, you can make your home a real fortress. High-quality and durable fittings can withstand external loads and at the same time have an aesthetically attractive appearance.

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Who among us has not witnessed how an unlucky buyer in a hardware store painfully tries to figure out which hinges he needs - left or right?

So, when I finally decided to replace the old and not very attractive hinges on the doors to the bathroom and toilet, I did not immediately remember how to distinguish them. But the matter is, in general, simple. Detachable half-hinged hinges (exactly the ones I needed) have a fixed rod in the bottom card (this part of the hinge is installed on the door frame), and the upper part of the hinge, which is attached to the door leaf (top card), has a cap-shaped hinge that fits onto the rod.

It is the half-hinged hinges that are left and right. The left ones are for doors that open in left side, right - for doors opening to the right. Determining which loops are needed is not at all difficult. To do this, you need to stand in front of the door so that it needs to be opened towards you. If the loops are located on the right, then they are called right loops. And if on the left, then, accordingly, to the left.

However, I needed both of them, since the doors of the bathroom and toilet opened in different directions.

There was, however, a doubt: should we change the hinges to one-piece ones? Nowadays most of these are found on sale. But they have a number of disadvantages compared to half-hinged ones. First, hang the door alone one-piece hinges more difficult because you have to hold it suspended and at the same time screw in the fastening screws. Secondly, adjusting the door leaf in height becomes much more difficult. So I settled on new detachable hinges.

Operating procedure

First you need to remove the door from its hinges. Do it without outside help It is possible if you use a block with a cross section of 40 * 40 mm and a piece of not very thick board. The block is placed in front open door as a support, and the board is slipped under the door leaf, placed on a block and used as a lever.

This allows without extra effort Without overloading your back, remove the door alone. Then unscrew the old hinges. It’s good if the screw slots are not damaged and not too covered with paint, as often happens. Otherwise, you need to clean them first. In addition, the blade of the screwdriver must exactly match the slot of the screw.

If you can’t unscrew the screws quickly, you can try soaking them in kerosene (so that it seeps onto the threads) or applying a heated soldering iron to the head of the screw. Sometimes it is possible to move a screw from its place by first turning it slightly clockwise (in the direction of tightening). Car enthusiasts can use the so-called impact screwdriver. If all of the above methods do not help, then the used screws will have to be drilled out.

If the old hinge was too deep into the door frame, you can use a nest-shaped insert cut out of hardboard. Having previously leveled the old nest with a chisel, door frame, install the insert into it and screw the hinge card to the door frame with long self-tapping screws.

To make installation of the door leaf easier, the rod at the bottom hinge can be shortened slightly. To do this, some part of it is sawed off with an ordinary hacksaw for metal and a file is used to chamfer the end of the rod after sawing off.

The next operation is installation upper parts hinges (top cards) onto the door leaf. Perhaps, in this case, you will first have to slightly adjust the sockets on the edge of the door leaf and only then screw the hinges. After the cards are screwed in, all that remains is to hang the door leaf in place. At the same time, it is raised above the floor and held using the lever that was used when removing the door.

The door is installed, but there is one more aspect of the work being done - lubricating the hinges. There are different lubricants for this. For example, the tried-and-true old-fashioned soft pencil lead. You need to lift the door leaf a little and push the stylus through

into the gap between the rubbing surfaces of the hinge, and then lower the door leaf and open and close the door several times. Graphite will grind into powder and eliminate squeaking just as well as any other lubricant.

But there is also modern materials, borrowed from the arsenal of motorists. These are aerosol semi-synthetic lubricants with high degree adhesion agents intended for processing parts in hard to reach places. For example, HHS 2000 lubricant. Such compounds easily penetrate into the smallest gaps of the mechanism and form a sticky film that is resistant to high loads (pressure or vibration).

In addition, they provide the rod with hinges reliable protection from corrosion. Of course, this is not very relevant for a city apartment, but for country house- very important. By the way, almost all modern hinges are sold treated with just such lubricants.

How to change door hinges - progress of work

1. The hinges have served for many years and are obsolete.
2. Left and right hinges of modern manufacture.
3. A simple lever made from scrap materials will help you remove the door.
4. Unscrewing old hinges can sometimes be very difficult.
5. The old socket in the door frame must be adjusted to the size of the new hinge.
6. If the nest is chosen too deep, you can install a hardboard liner in it.
7. The hinge card is screwed to the door frame with long self-tapping screws.
8. To make installation of the door leaf easier, the rod at the bottom hinge can be shortened slightly.
9. After sawing off the rod with a needle file, remove the chamfer.
10. If necessary, the sockets on the edge of the door leaf also need to be corrected.
11. The top hinge card is screwed to the door leaf.
12. The door leaf took its place.

Replacing door hinges - photo

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Another thing I like to do is door hinges, they can be used in many wooden crafts. This is not so much a desire to create something new, but simply a desire to make your own door hinges. Most likely, this is disappointment from the type of loops that are available in the store. The hinges are made from hardwood, mainly maple and oak. An important tool in the manufacture of hinges there is a router and a figured cutter, which sets the ornate shapes. The other important part is having a drill bit with a diameter slightly larger than the hole in the hinge. We’ll look at how to make door hinges for boxes on closet doors in more detail in this article.

DIY door hinges.

There are a lot various styles wooden hinges that can be made. All door hinges are made from hardwood, with the majority of door hardware being made from maple and oak. Important component in my case, to make door hinges it is a router that will give the hinge a rich shape. Another important part, a drill with a bit large diameter than the hinge axis. A hole is drilled in the top of the hinge so that the hinge rotates freely.

Using a router and milling table cut a tenon on both sides of the piece of wood, then cut it in half to make two door hinges.

Do-it-yourself repair is a very labor-intensive process. For a successful result, patience, accuracy and attentiveness are required. Self-installation of entrance or interior door includes several stages, one of which is cutting out a recess for door hinges. The door is held on by door hinges and from them correct installation depends on how it will open and close.

Preparation for installation

Most often there are two hinges, but if the door is very heavy, additional ones may be needed. The upper and lower loops are placed symmetrically, retreating 20-25 cm from the top and bottom, the third loop is made exactly in the middle.

To get started, you need to assemble some tools that you will need to cut out the recesses for the hinges.

1. Pencil.
2. Roulette.
3. Building level.
4. Hammer.
5. Sharpened chisel.
6. A screwdriver (can be replaced with a screwdriver) and screws.
7. Drill.
8. Hinges for the door.

Selection of door hinges

The choice of hinges for a door should be taken very seriously. Please note that there are left-handed, right-handed and universal hinges.

The most reliable and high-quality steel hinges are. Brass is widely used, since the material has good ductility, and brass-plated hinges look more decorative (imitation chrome, gold or bronze). And by choosing hinges with bearings, you can long time use the door and it will not creak.

The method of installing door hinges divides hinges into three types:

• Screw-in (made in the form of threaded pins). Such hinges are two symmetrically located parts in the shape of a cylinder with holes for screws. One part is fixed on the frame, the other on the door leaf.

Attention! Screw-in hinges can only be used for doors with a European door, regular doors You won't be able to attach it to these hinges.

• Invoices. The most common are butterfly hinges, which, due to their design, do not require cutting a recess either in the opening or in the door itself. To install the remaining overhead hinges, you need to make a recess in the doorway and door.
• Canopy of a hidden insert (the fittings are not visible at all if the door is closed). Design door hardware this type is very complex, self installation such loops are not recommended. For installation, a simple chisel is not enough; you must use a router.

Installation

At the first stage, it is necessary to carry out accurate markings. Using a pencil and tape measure, mark the upper and lower boundaries of the door hinges. Let us remind you that the upper and lower distances are 20-25 cm.
Depending on the length and width of the loop, you need to mark the location for the recess. To do this, attach the loop to the box along the first marked line and outline its outline. Act with maximum precision, the lines must be strictly at right angles, use a level to check.

Do the same with the bottom loop, remembering that the line marked below is the bottom edge of the loop. If it is necessary to install a third loop, it must be placed exactly in the middle. Having calculated the distance, mark the boundaries of the third loop. Mark the locations and drill holes for the screws.

The second stage is cutting out the recesses for the hinges. The depth of the recess must exactly match the thickness of the loop. If the recess is larger, the door may become deformed during operation, which will lead to the need to replace the hinges and door. The chisel must be applied to the drawn line and carefully outline the contour, tapping the chisel with a hammer. Remove the first layer of wood. Then go over the outline again. In this way, remove several layers until the desired depth is formed.

The third stage is to similarly mark and make a recess for the hinges on the door.

On the fourth last stage you need to secure the hinges with self-tapping screws to the frame and door. It is difficult to install the door alone; ask for help to support the door.

If all actions are done correctly, installed door will last long years, and the money saved on installation will be a pleasant reward for independent work. As you can see, installing mortise overhead hinges is not very difficult; every man who knows how to handle a simple plumbing tool can handle it. We wish you a successful renovation!

Installing hinges: video

How to install hinges in a door: photo

TRX loops are an excellent training device. TRX is one of the most popular destinations in modern fitness. They are used both in gyms and at home. If you don’t know what it is yet, go to the official website.

One bad thing about TRX hinges is the price. In American stores they cost $200, and in Russian stores they cost even more inhumanely - 8,000-10,000 rubles.

But this problem, as it turned out, is easily solved. Fitness enthusiast Natalie from Gdansk made these loops with her own hands and it cost her only $18.00 and 2 hours of work. Natalie photographed everything in detail and described it - almost anyone can repeat it.

Price: carabiner - $3, 30 mm tape from a hardware store 5 m - $1, 2 slings for securing a load to the car (with a cam self-clamping stopper) 2.5 and 5 m ($3 and $4, respectively), pipe for electrical wiring 1" - $1.5 for 2 meters, thread.

Tools: Sewing machine, scissors, lighter, hacksaw or Dremel for cutting pipes.

What are the original TRX hinges made of:

To be honest, I didn’t understand the meaning of such a sophisticated hinge system from the picture. The lower fastening, the main carabiner, the stabilizing and closing loops were thrown out. I did everything else.

Before the main part of the work: 1) We seal all the cut ends of the slings with fire. 2) If you sew sealed ends in a machine, it will not chew the plastic very well. The needles break with a bang. I myself changed 2 needles No. 14. Therefore, I highly recommend and strongly recommend any glasses. It almost hit me in the eye. Cut 2 pieces of 15.5 cm from the pipe. Or look at the size of your fist.

The pipe is like this:

Slings and cam stopper:

Cut a 2.40 m piece from the black tape, fold it in half, and make marks for the main loop. (Excellent for drawing with soap).

Next, fold the measured pieces of the main loop overlapping. Let's collaborate. Procedure: first zigzag one edge, then we go along the sling from the sewn side with a straight line to the opposite edge, sewing 2 strips together and zigzag the second edge. This will prevent you from calculating in millimeters (otherwise your belly will come out). Afterwards we go over each one back and forth, strengthening the loop with seams (my machine sews in 2 directions, so it was easier). These stitched 2 parts are, in principle, needed for the rigid shape of the loop. It turned out like this:

Take the loop, fold it in half and stitch it at the base. Do not touch the already stitched part - you can break the needle. These protruding ends of the threads, for whom they spoil the aerodynamics, can be scorched with a lighter (since I put a lot of lines there, it was not scary to scorch the seam).

Now - intermediate fastening loops. In principle, it was possible to simply stitch the tape across, but in order not to worry about it in the future (“getting the carabiner into the hole”), let’s change the “cut” a little. Take it and celebrate with inside ribbons are cut into 6 cm sections and adjust, slightly (5 mm) moving the second half of the loop from above. You will get such bellies.

The place for the carbine is based on the residual principle. It should come out something like this:

Second stage: Loops for arms and legs Cut off the clips from the red slings:

We cut 2 pieces of black tape, 115 cm each:

We build the following structure:

We attach clamps to the black slings and sew them together. Then we sew on the second part, we get this kind of loop with a tube:

Oh... sorry about the manicure

Good and strong!

General plan - what should happen:

Leg loops. Here's a small hitch - I had to select the size. I cut 2 pieces of 68 cm each.

I chipped it and started adjusting it (and on the heel too):

It turned out to be about 43 cm, but I think it’s individual. And this needs to be stitched tighter - it won’t hurt for rigidity.

It’s awkward to write:

Result:

Then everything is simple: we take a long piece of sling (about 2.5 m), insert it into the main loop, the ends into the clamps (we look at which side - on one side it is self-fixing, on the other it can easily crawl out under the weight), we process the edges.

Fasteners for the ends can be made from paper clips (shown in the video below) or an ordinary elastic band can be sewn into a ring. 2-3 of these rubber bands are enough and won’t ruin the aesthetics. Since I have given time days, no rubber bands, no paper clips, pinned together.

The handles can be tuned with electrical tape - they will not slip. The set weighs 378 g.

Video on how to make TRX loops with your own hands (about paper clips from 3 minutes):