Independent installation and connection of a bathtub is a job for a skilled craftsman. Recommendations for installing a steel bathtub with your own hands: step-by-step instructions How to install a bathtub in the bathroom

1. The upper plane is not level

The design of any bathtub implies its own slope of the bottom. That is, the upper edge is leveled, while the bottom has its own slope towards the drain. An additional tilt is not only unnecessary, but also harmful - in such a bathtub the chances of slipping increase.

2. The sewer slope is too small

Height difference sewer pipes according to SNiPs - for Ф50mm - 3 cm per meter, for Ф110mm - 1.5 cm per meter. If you are really stressed about the height, then even the fiftieth pipe can be laid 1.5 cm per meter - the drainage will be normal. Verified by the author.

If you make the slope smaller, the water will drain away slowly. In this case, you will have to wait a long time to rinse the bathtub after washing. And also foam and dirt will be deposited on the walls of the bathtub and pipes, which are then more difficult to wash off, and the pipes may generally become completely clogged and will have to be cleaned.

3. Corrugation is used to connect the siphon to the sewer system

Only rigid pipes, avoiding right angles.

4. U steel bath the screws securing the legs to the bathtub are overtightened

It is no coincidence that the nuts for such screws are made in the form of wings. They can only be tightened by hand. If you use keys or pliers, then The enamel of the bathtub in the place where the screw is attached is easily peeled off and it will be impossible to fix it! So, many years ago, I had to replace one bathtub with a new one.

5. Spring pads are used

Under no circumstances should rubber or similar pads be placed under the legs of the bathtub, as well as under the bottom of the bathtub. If the bathtub springs against them during operation, a crack will definitely appear between the bathtub and the wall. And water will begin to flow there.

Steel bathtubs are supplied with self-adhesive gaskets between the bathtub and the legs. It is permissible to leave them. Additional spring pads should be avoided.

6. There is no bath grounding

According to SNiP standards, the bathtub must be grounded (connected) by an electric wire with a cross-section no less than that of the phase wire, with water pipes and an electrical panel.

To ensure reliable contact for cast iron bathtubs, it is enough to wrap the wire around the adjusting screw of the leg and tighten it on both sides with nuts and washers and one locking washer.

This option is not suitable for a steel bathtub, since self-adhesive gaskets isolate the bathtub from the legs. For grounding purposes, the steel bath has special petals with holes for bolts.

But, almost always, these petals are painted with enamel, like the entire bath. Since enamel does not conduct electric current, it must be carefully removed from the required area before grounding.

This can be done using an angle grinder (grinder), removing the paint at the point of contact. You can also use pliers to slightly bend the petal at the point of contact of the wire, the enamel in this place will “shoot off”. Therefore, the work must be carried out wearing safety glasses. Then, the joint can be coated with lithol or any other lubricant, or painted to prevent oxidation.

7. Using silicone and flexible corners to form a junction between the bathtub and the tiles

Plastic flexible corners installed on a bathtub quickly lose their appearance. The same applies to silicone. According to statistics, on average they will need to be changed once a year. It is better to abandon them completely in favor of joining the tiles on top and grouting. But, if the silicone is good and made in such a way that water does not stagnate on it, then it may well last for a long time.

8. Bath stands are not moisture-resistant and not rigid enough.

In 9 cases out of 10, the bathtub has to be raised higher than what is provided by the factory adjusting screws. If you use wooden or rubber stands for these purposes, then in the first case they may dry out, and in the second, as mentioned above, the bathtub will “breathe” and a crack will inevitably form where the bathtub adjoins the wall.

9. The tile shelf is made not at the head, but at the feet

If the shelf between the bathtub and the wall (lengthwise) is made not at the head, but “at the feet” (the feet are where the drain is), then when taking a shower, the main flow of water will flow onto this shelf, and possibly from it onto the floor. If the slope of the shelf is small, then the water will stagnate on it. If it’s big, then you won’t be able to put anything on it.

Conclusion - a shelf at the head is more convenient and practical.

10. The bathtub is recessed too deep into the walls.

If the length of the side of the bathtub is sunk into the wall to a great depth, then it becomes uncomfortable to sit in this bathtub - the wall is too close. It is also inconvenient to place various shelves and seats on the bathtub.

And it doesn't look too pretty.

11. Access to the audit is blocked.

If a homemade screen is installed on the bathtub, then it is necessary to provide access to the bathtub piping. Sometimes you need to clean the siphon or make some other repairs.

You can install plastic or metal hatches with magnets. But this option doesn’t look very good. It is best to use built-in secret hatches under the tiles. It is also possible to install the tile with 4 magnets, as described.

Leave a comment on this article at the bottom of the page and receive a selection of useful tips from Stanislav Plitochkin as a gift:

How to glue broken plastic products so they become stronger than new ones.
The best way drill a hole in the tile.
Refinement of the angle grinder, with a cost of 85 rubles and 1 hour of working time, increases the service life of the angle grinder and the diamond wheel by 2 times.
How to make beautiful and durable bath stands from inexpensive, available materials.
How to tighten a drill chuck without a key.
Pitfall when installing a wall-mounted toilet.

118 comments

Thanks a lot.
Everything is clear and intelligible. I learned a lot of useful things. In particular, about the magnetic hatch, preparing pipes for walling, and about grouting sawn tiles.
Thanks again.

Thank you, Stanislav, for the article!
I agree, silicone often loses its appearance in the first months of use. But here’s the paradox - my sister’s bathroom was renovated more than 10 years ago - the silicone is like new!!! Sorry I didn't remember the manufacturer.

Yes, this is a lucky break. Good silicone plus good ventilation, plus the caring hands of the owner (I’m sure she often wipes dry the remaining water after using the bath) - the result, of course, will please you.

Currently I am preparing material on installing bathtubs. There will be a subsection describing the rules for using and caring for the bathroom.

The gift was sent by mail.

I have been decorating for several years and still find something new for myself on your site. Many came to construction not from special schools but by chance. In many ways, you have to learn on your own or learn from the experience of others. Your sai is a good help to those who still continue to improve their skills and increase their professional abilities.
Regarding the shelf between the wall and the bathtub, it is worth paying attention to the location of the tap. Will the water flow onto the shelf, the height, will it interfere? It is advisable that the bathtub and faucet are already available and on site. This will remove questions and unnecessary pain.

Thanks for the comment! Yes, Alexander, I didn’t study at school either; I had to gain knowledge from books and in communication with other finishers. But the greatest experience was gained by my own bigwigs. Now I realize that this is the wrong approach and I strongly recommend that everyone find the right description and study it before starting work. Moreover, with the Internet it is much easier to do this!
Regarding the mixer above the shelf, this is exactly what is said in the ninth paragraph of this article. But you are right: for me it goes without saying that the mixer should be located “at the feet” (above the bathtub drain), but for an inexperienced reader this may not be so obvious. This point will definitely be covered in the instructions.
Sent bonuses.

Thank you, informative! Right now there is a problem in choosing pads for the legs of the bathtub... the bathtub is cast iron, heavy, legs with adjusting bolts. Can you tell me any way?

- Thank you for the useful tips. As for “like it or not,” I can say the following: I agree with you that laying bricks is unaesthetic; the second method, which involves pouring pipe scraps, is certainly interesting and looks good, although it didn’t suit me, because there is no need to raise the bathtub high; the length of the original bolts was quite enough for a good drainage and for ease of use of the bathtub itself. However, if I ever install a bathtub on “short” legs, I will probably use this method. Personally, I liked and found your advice to use plugs from polypropylene pipes. It’s very simple, cheap and doesn’t scratch the tiles. Just what I need.
  - - Hello! It may be too late to discuss the topic….
      There are two questions.
      1. Does an acrylic bathtub need to be grounded?
      2. We bought an acrylic corner and a frame for it. The legs are so short that any drain does not fit, the legs are suspended, and the bathtub is on the drain pipe. And besides, the legs in the center under the bottom of the bathtub are shorter than those in the corners. Buying high legs is expensive, the frame is expensive... Can you share the method?
      And yet, maybe it’s like this for everyone, the bottom of the bathtub is slightly curved, while the water flows well into the drain, somehow conveniently on the sides. My husband says it takes time for it to settle and level out. But I think that the bathtub should stand rigidly and so that the bottom does not play, which is intended
      
      Hello, Elena!
      There is no need to ground an acrylic bathtub.
      The legs are short - increase their length. To do this, it is enough to purchase a meter-long pin and couplings of the appropriate diameter, as well as locknuts with lock washers or a thread lock in the form of a paste.
      The second option is to make stands, which are described in the bonus. But with an acrylic bathtub it will be more difficult to install them - access to the far legs is too difficult.
      The bottom of the bathtub will not bend over time. If it plays, then it is better to organize a support under it in the form of bricks or bars placed on foam.

Thanks for the advice! I am renovating my bathroom and am very worried about the results, especially after your article. How many dangers! .I have a problem with my legs cast iron bath Rosa. The adjusting bolts included with the legs turned out to be a little short (because of the box with pipes you have to lift it higher to move it close to the wall), we also need spacers for these bolts. Question - You don’t recommend wood and rubber, but what should you choose? Paving slabs, metal spacers? I had already obtained an oak beam, but I began to doubt something. Although Venice stands on oak stilts...

I continue to study the site. Everything's great. Have you ever had to cover a steel bathtub with Shumka? What materials did you use and what did you glue them with? Very relevant, I'm picking up the Roca bathtub tomorrow, I'd like to make some improvements before installing it.
I would like to see how you improved your angle grinder. Thank you!

I covered Kaldevey steel bathtubs with standard sound insulation, see here:
I also insulated it with mounting foam - it takes 3 cylinders per bath. But this is the case when the bathtub is walled up tightly. Tomorrow I will sculpt the usual energyflex on liquid nails. True, this will not be sound insulation, but heat insulation. A good option is car sound insulation. In practice, the more expensive the better...

Please tell me if the tiles on the wall are already laid to the floor
Do I need to make some kind of recess in the hay under the side of the bathtub or can I somehow fix it close to the tile and make a baseboard?

Good advice, not just made up, as is often the case now. In practice, a slope of 3 cm per meter is too much - as a result, the rise is too large. Thank you!

Thank you for the article! I would also like to get advice from a GURU regarding lifting the standard short legs of a Roca cast iron bathtub. What is better to use instead of rubber pads? And what is the best way to ground it if the drain and overflow are copper and all the pipes are polypropylene?

Sent a selection, Olga. The answer to the first question is in it. About grounding a cast iron bathtub: According to SNIPs, the bathtub is grounded with a copper wire with a cross-section of at least 4 mm2, stretched from the electrical panel. The risers with hot and cold water. If the risers are polypropylene, then the wire can be connected to the metal parts of meters or coarse filters using stainless steel clamps. The wire can be connected to the bathtub itself by tightening it with a bolt in a special eyelet, or if one is not provided, then by clamping it between the nuts on one of the legs.

What can you tell me about connecting an acrylic bathtub to a tile? Manufacturers do not recommend attaching tiles on top of an acrylic bathtub; the only option is silicone or plastic corners.

You said everything correctly, Dmitry. Silicone or plastic corners. But personally, three months ago I had the opportunity to install an acrylic bathtub with tiles on top. True, very significant measures were taken to eliminate possible movements of the bath. The junction was sealed with white silicone. I note that replacing the bathtub will also become much more complicated. But, with careful use, an acrylic bathtub will easily last 15 years or more.

Hello, Stanislav. I really like your articles, you talk about those important “little things” that allow you to do repairs with pleasure and with high quality. The advice about the magnetic hatch has already been adopted. Simple, and most importantly, aesthetically pleasing. I’m really looking forward to the selection of articles, and I would also like to gain access to password-protected pages. What needs to be done for this?

Hello Mamtria! Thanks for your feedback! I’ll tell you one secret: For any sane comment on any article, I will send you access to all bonuses and password-protected materials.) If something is missing, write and I’ll add it. Do not hesitate to ask any questions you are interested in, I will try to answer everything.

Good day!
I can't figure it out on point 3. "3. Corrugation is used to connect the siphon to the sewer
Only rigid pipes, avoiding right angles.”
How can this be implemented? Maybe there is a photo?
What kind of rigid pipe can be used and how can this connection be subsequently maintained?
Thank you in advance.

Thank you very much for the advice, it’s good that I found your site. I would like to know on what supports, from what material to install such a bathtub http://es26.ru/products/6518937 And what kind of gaskets to install under the bottom of the bathtub. It’s just that the bathtub was installed a long time ago by other people, and it wasn’t done very well, I would like to do it wisely.
- Hello, Sergey! I don’t understand what kind of legs your bathtub has now. If they are relatives, then you can simply make good stands for them and install them. At the same time, secure the bathtub itself in the manner described in this place: .. How to make linings - sent to you by mail. The plastic pads between the legs and the tub that come with the kit are quite good, you don’t need to do anything with them.
  If the legs are not original, then you need to secure the side of the bathtub as described above, remove the old legs and install stands made of moisture-resistant gypsum block with a gap of 10...15mm. Fill the gap with polyurethane foam, which will hold the bath well. It is advisable to install the gypsum block below with tile adhesive or pearlfix. You can do the same by laying bricks on the “edge”.

Tell me, the renovation was completed 1.5 years ago. They didn’t immediately realize that our repairmen had left a “surprise.” The drain in the bathtub is not working well, the water is constantly standing, I don’t understand how to unscrew everything now to raise the bathtub.

Ksenia, I sympathize with your grief... If you are one hundred percent sure that the problem is a small difference in height, then there is only one way out - to raise the bathtub. I don’t suggest installing a “Sololift” system with forced drainage; it’s complicated and expensive. If it’s relevant, write to me by email and I’ll give you information on the technology for lifting the bathtub.

Good afternoon
Thank you for the article and your conscientious approach to the matter.
Soon we will have to raise the cast-iron bathtub by 6 cm.
They wanted it for paving slabs. From your article did we understand that this is not the best option?
Please advise me on what to put the legs of the bathtub on.

Hello! Bathtub Roca 100×70. The screw legs glide across the porcelain stoneware floor as if on ice. What can you substitute? Plugs from polypropylene pipes also slide! !! What can you think of? Yes, I note that the walls are made of PVC panels, i.e. You cannot attach a bathtub to them. Thank you in advance for your response.

Hello! bought a cast iron bathtub Roca c anti-slip coating, but it comes with very short legs of 8 cm... Please tell me what can I put on it? I thought that rubber or silicone anti-vibration stands could be used for washing machine or wooden squares made from pine floorboards, but from the information on your website, I realized that this is not advisable...
- - Hello! The situation is similar with the Roca bathtub. The “specialists” installed it on scraps of plywood. They turned on the heating and a month later the bathtub sank. Can you please tell me what can replace the plywood stands?
    - The stands are made from scraps of PVC sewer pipe filled with sand concrete. Details in the selection that was sent to you by email.

Hello! To install a bathtub close to the wall, prevent cast iron pipe, the master advised replacing it with metal-plastic, installing it in the floor, thereby completely hiding it. The master suggests changing the pipe only in the bathroom, which is smaller in diameter than the cast iron one. I am concerned about the safety of the heating system and whether the room will be warm enough without damaging the circulation throughout the house. Waiting for your answer. Thank you!

Hello!
I am planning to install a cast iron bathtub on tile, but I am worried that a corner of the tile under the legs may crack or break off due to the legs possibly getting into the voids.
Please advise how best to remove the point load from the legs, preferably by raising the bathtub a little (to allow for better drainage).
Thank you in advance!

Greetings, Alexey! You can remove the point load by using the pads that I talked about in the bonus I sent you. The second option is to place paving slabs under the legs. They are different thicknesses and configurations. But the most important thing is that the voids under the tiles can be easily calculated by simply tapping the tile with a pencil. If there is emptiness, the sound will immediately change. So perhaps your concern is in vain.

Hello! Please advise what to do best: an acrylic bathtub with legs was installed, due to the flexibility of the acrylic, the grout quickly fell out, after which they decided to waterproof it with silicone sealant, but it also did not last long. Is there an option to strengthen the bathtub and remove this flexibility without dismantling the bathtub and what is the best way to seal the seam.

Greetings, Ivan! A familiar problem. The edges of an acrylic bathtub are pressed when pressed, and this is the main disadvantage of these bathtubs. How to defeat him? - IN accessible places The bend of the bathtub side can be drilled to the wall. If it’s inaccessible, I can suggest sliding a stick, or better yet, a duralumin square under the side of the bathtub and spreading it to the floor. This is not easy to do, but it is possible. You can increase the pressure with pads.
You can seal the seam with two-component automotive metal putty. But this is only if you are sure that the wall is strong enough, dry and dust-free. For example, heavy concrete or tiles. But if on the wall gypsum plaster, then it’s better to first coat it with a good acrylic primer and dry it.
The bonus has been sent.

Good afternoon, I have the problem described above. It is necessary to raise the cast iron bathtub by 5 cm. I made a mistake during installation.
wedged the legs to the bathtub, i.e. It will be difficult to get them out. 2 I placed small blocks under the legs, which dried out over time. As a result, the side cracked and the grout cracked.
Now I want to lift the bathtub a little with 2 jacks, pull out the bars and put metal plates under them.
I want to drill the plates and insert 2 bolts so that this structure can be lifted along with the bathtub.
please tell me what is better to put under the head of the bolt so that the tile does not break.
thank you and good luck

Greetings, Timur! Under the heads of the bolts, in your case, you can place circles of a suitable size, cut from a duralumin corner or plate. Any durable waterproof material will do: copper, stainless steel, textolite, getinax, polycarbonate. If I understand correctly, the bathtub leg will rest on a plate into which two bolts are screwed in with their heads facing down. But such a design will be very unstable. Three bolts are required for stability. Apparently, you are a hardworking person. In a good way. But here I would advise you not to complicate the solution of the problem so much. All you have to do is lift the bathtub with a jack and place the stands under the legs, the description of which I have already sent you. Since the grout above the side of the bathtub is already cracked, there is no particular need to return the bathtub to its original position - you will still have to clean out the cracked grout and grout with new one. But the risk of damaging the tile when jacking or squeezing with bolts is quite high. Therefore, it is better not to try to lift the bathtub, but simply support it with a jack to remove the load from the legs. Then do not pull out the bars, but split them using a chisel and hammer. Next, install the manufactured stands under the legs and, if necessary, supports in the form of coins or fragments of a paint knife blade.
- Does the grout just need to be repaired where it is cracked or cleaned out completely? and wipe it over with new one?
  I impregnated it with a water-repellent grout, do you think the new grout will stick? although about 3 years have already passed, this impregnation has probably already washed off)
  - There isn't much difference. If the grout is not too difficult to clean, then it is better, of course, to clean it all out and grout it with new one. But you can also embroider and rub it. It should be taken into account that the new grout and the old one will differ in shade. The grout should adhere normally to impregnation. It’s just always better to lay the grout not in a thin layer, but with a depth of at least 2 mm. This way she will hold on better.

Good day, and I would also really like to get advice from you regarding lifting the standard short legs of a cast-iron Roca bathtub and its reliable fastening in conditions that there are already tiles on the floor and walls everywhere.
The bathtub was installed, but for some reason these legs do not inspire any confidence. Thanks in advance.

Good day! Short legs Roka baths have adjusting screws that can be replaced with longer ones. Or use the stands that are described in the letter sent to you.

Hello. Thanks for your valuable advice. Short and to the point. Learned a lot of new things. I just removed my old bathtub and am now trying to install it back. But there is a problem. The bathroom consists of plaster walls - this is a 9th floor panel. The walls at the junction of the bathtub in separate sections turned into gray powder and as I understand it, this is the reaction of the plaster to water. Now I can’t think of anything to “restore” these sections of the walls in order to give them the original geometry of the walls, in the sense of exactly what materials. Can you recommend how to repair plaster walls of a bathroom, taking into account the possible ingress of water into these areas in the future? Can you also recommend a sanitary sealant against mold, including one on which mold actually does not grow? Many manufacturers write on sealants that they are mold free, but apparently mold cannot be read and grows well on these sealants. Thank you.

Hello Roman! Thanks for the good question. Regarding the plaster. Don't worry too much, this matter can be fixed. First, exfoliate everything that is falling off, and then dry it. Next, walk along the walls liquid glass, directly with a brush or roller so that as much as possible is absorbed. If it seems that it is poorly absorbed, dilute it a little with water. When it dries, you can go through it again. This is the most best primer and waterproofing. Just be careful - after drying, liquid glass cannot be cleaned from tiles and earthenware. Next, plaster the walls with any plaster, dry it, prime it with a regular primer or again with liquid glass. If the tiles are properly laid and grouted, water cannot enter the walls through the tiles. So don't worry about this. But regarding mold, this is a very important point. You correctly said that sealant manufacturers are lying to customers. I personally have not met such a sealant that can completely defeat fungus. Here you need to approach it strategically - eliminate the cause of the fungus. The most popular reason is the tightness of the bathtub room. That is, they will install a door with a threshold or minimal clearance between the door leaf and the floor, and then expect the bath to be ventilated by a fan. But if there is nowhere for air to flow, then the humidity will not go anywhere, and no fan will help here. It is also necessary to check the hood to see if it works well. There is another reason for humidity in the bathroom - condensation on the walls. If the wall borders a street or an entrance, then condensation will also constantly appear on it. To avoid this phenomenon, you need to insulate the wall or provide additional heating.

I can say about sealants that they often turn black over time due to the fact that they are applied with a “failure”, that is, a groove is formed in the corner between the sink and the wall, in which water stagnates. In such cases, mold is, of course, inevitable. In general, the conclusion is simple - the main enemy of mold is dryness, and you should strive to ensure it by all means.
I sent you a selection.

A cast iron bathtub 70 by 170 has very dubious standard legs, does the bathtub need to be further strengthened or insured? Is there a replacement for such legs and can the bolts be replaced with longer ones of a different metal?

Can I have a photo of these standard legs? Until now, only fairly reliable ones have been encountered, except that the thread is not cut all the way through or is crooked. The bathtub is strengthened automatically when walled under the tiles. The screws can, of course, be replaced. But you shouldn’t get carried away with the length, since with a non-coaxially cut thread, you get a large lever arm for breaking this leg. Another metal, meaning more durable and moisture resistant? - Then of course yes!

Good article, thanks. I have a question about the legs of cast iron bathtubs and the linings under them. Novokuznetsk cast iron bathtubs “Universal” have adjustable legs with bolts at the end. Is it possible to install their 70x170 bathtub simply on the heads of these bolts (as is apparently designed by default), these faceted heads are about 13-15 mm in diameter (I don’t remember exactly, maybe 10mm, but somewhere like that), the tiles are not will it crack? Or do I need to put something wider?
Tiles 43x43x9 mm

By and large, you can leave the heads of the bolts - they will not push through the tile if it is well laid and there are no voids under it. There is one small nuance - these bolts are black, not covered with anything and will rust over time - accordingly, the appearance will not be particularly neat. You can place plugs under these caps for polypropylene pipes of suitable diameter. They cost a penny, but are quite durable and waterproof. There is one more point with these bolts: very often the bolts of the front legs (near the drain) have to be unscrewed to the maximum so that the bend of the siphon does not rest on the floor. In this case, the rear bolts turn out to be short, since the bottom has a slope towards the drain hole. In this case, you will have to purchase new bolts, longer ones. So, going to the store, you can kill all the birds with one stone: buy 4 polypropylene plugs, galvanized bolts, nuts with washers for them, and, as a icing on the cake, four lock washers, which will not be superfluous for such a critical connection.
Well, or just use the footrests described in the letter sent to you.

Good afternoon
What is the minimum length gap for installing a steel bathtub?
I plan to install Roca Swing 180×80; after laying the tiles, the “niche” turned out to be exactly 180 cm.
Will I be able to “shove in the unshoveable”?
And is there any real practical sense in looking for rare specimens on the market with a steel thickness of 3.5 mm instead of the usual 2.4 mm, or is it enough to glue vibration insulation to eliminate the sound of water?

Good day, Vladislav! Yes, you are right, it will be difficult to insert such a bathtub. The fact is that its upper edge is not sharp, like that of a cast-iron bathtub, but has the shape of a rectangle, which, when lowered diagonally, will be longer than just the upper edge. For your sizes, we have the length of this diagonal: √(1800²+40²)=1800.44. Let's subtract the length of the bath -1800 from it and get 1800.44-1800 = 0.44 millimeters. Hmm..., probably, such an excess can be neglected; it probably fits into the measurement error. Here you have to hope for luck. Otherwise, you will have to remove a row of tiles from one end of the bathtub or cut a groove in the tiles under the edge of the bathtub, which is a very delicate job, and not every specialist can do it.
I do not observe any fundamental difference in the thickness of the walls of the bathtub. A normal aerator on the mixer plays a much larger role. And yes, vibroisol is a completely appropriate thing.

Good afternoon Very informative article and just in time for me! I'm about to renovate my bathroom! Please tell me how to install an acrylic bathtub correctly: before laying the tiles or after? The biggest concern is the gap between the tiles and the bathtub. I don’t want it to turn yellow, I don’t want the corners either. What should I do? Thank you

Good afternoon, Natalia! It is better to place the tiles on the bathtub; this connection is more technologically advanced. Then this corner can be siliconized or grouted. If you want the corner to not lose its appearance longer, it is better to use a two-component epoxy-based grout.
I warn you that most acrylic bathtubs have negative sloped corners and need to be raised to prevent water from stagnating in them.

Add another error. I brought a 50mm pipe out of the wall under the drain exactly in the center of the bathtub, where the drain hole is near the bathtub. I did not take into account that the siphon drains anywhere but into the wall, because the overflow interferes there. Now I will have to do the outline on the 45 degree corners. Moreover, all the decent siphons that I looked at do not allow you to connect to the drain in a straight line; they imply that the drain will be to the side, and not strictly in the center. And one more question. I have a 50mm 90-degree angle in the wall, followed by a 2.5-meter bed with a slope of 1.5, then a 135-degree tee and a riser. Otherwise it just won't fit. And towards the bathtub from this 90 degree angle I will have 5cm pipes, angle 45, 10cm pipes, angle 45, then a siphon (siphon outlet 50mm). Forecast? How bad will it be for water to drain through this entire structure? To redo it, you need to disassemble the gypsum board on the frame: (

Your slope is normal, the water will flow away well. There are a lot of angles, of course, but that's okay. Still at the U-shaped bathtub siphon throughput worse, and the flow rate will be determined by it. If you have a U-shaped siphon, and you want to maximize the rate of water drainage, then you need to get rid of the 90-degree angles, replacing them with two 45-degree angles.
Regarding the drainage system from the wall along the axis of the bathroom. Quite right, this is the wrong arrangement. The overflow, however, can always be turned a little to the side (the connecting tube allows you to do this), but in a straight line the siphon almost never gets into the sewer pipe and you have to do an equilibration exercise.
The article lists eleven errors, but in reality, of course, there are many more. I tried to write instructions for installing bathtubs - I ended up with more than 120 pages, with photographs and pictures, it’s true, but it’s still a lot. Although twenty years ago such instructions would have been very useful to me...

Hello, Stanislav. It is very fortunate for me that I found your very useful site. I have to install a shower stall with high sides (i.e., an acrylic bathtub below) in the bathroom. But here’s the problem: the height from the floor to the bottom of the sewer pipe (d=50) in the wall is 9.5 cm, and from the floor to the bottom of the bathtub is only 10.5 cm. That is. a very small height difference due to which there will be stagnation of water in the bath! What kind of solid supports should be used for the legs of the bathtub (there are 12 of them, the diameter of each support is 38mm)? What siphon and angles should I use for maximum drainage speed?

Greetings, Igor! Twelve legs is a lot. It is necessary to lift the tray, although there will be a gap between the screen and the floor. But, with a certain amount of intelligence, it can be posted mosaic tiles. The supports in your case can be either those described in the bonus sent to you, or in the form of polypropylene couplings of the appropriate diameter. Or cut a polypropylene pipe to the desired height of the stand. Try to raise the pallet to a height that is a multiple of the whole number of mosaic tiles.
It is best to use a siphon with a smooth curve, but it has a large height, which in your case may be unacceptable. Angles for draining - it is advisable to avoid 90 degrees - it is better to set two to forty-five.

Good afternoon. Thank you for your materials and experience, I highlighted a lot of useful things for myself. In a week I will be installing a Roca cast iron bathtub, which I have already purchased. The entire bathroom is already tiled. So I was wondering how to position it correctly so that it wouldn’t slip. I am considering the option with washers for the adjusting bolts, or brass plugs, as you suggest. It would be interesting to know if there are any other methods besides those indicated. Well, I would also be happy to read a selection of your useful tips.

Sent a selection, Vadim, Good evening!) Let the bathtub slide, no big deal. It is only important, at the moment of alignment, to fix it with wedges between the walls. Then you can safely concrete.

Hello! Please tell me the solution to this problem. There is an acrylic bathtub on a factory frame. The bathroom is already tiled and the distance between the walls is approximately 90mm larger than the bathtub. In this case, the bathtub seems to be deformed by the “screw”. When it’s full, everything is fine, the legs are on the tiles, everything is level. If you drain the water, the bathtub begins to wobble and you can see the difference in its position relative to the seams of the tiles. I plan to close the gap and foam the filled bathtub on both sides. Will it hold?

I wouldn't recommend doing this. On the faucet side, you will then have to make a shelf out of tiles, this is extra work, and not very practical from the point of view of water drainage during a shower. It will be enough to fill the water and tighten the sides of the bathtub to the walls with powerful screws.
- Greetings! Sorry for the delay in response, there were technical reasons... The tap is at the end of the bathtub - no problem, as long as it is convenient for you. Quite beautiful.

Hello, please send me by email possible options for linings for a cast iron bathtub. We are doing renovations, we have laid tiles and put a bathtub on it. But there is a fear that the bathtub will push through the tiles. Are you saying that you can put plugs from polypropylene pipes, and they will not slip on the tiles? Or is the bathtub so heavy that it won’t slide? Help me please!

Hello, Alena! Yes, the plugs will slide. This is convenient for installing a bathtub, but after installation the bathtub needs to be firmly fixed. I hope that you will slightly recess the edge of the bathtub into the wall so that the tiles fit right into the curve of the edge. In this case, after coating the gap the right solution, the bathtub is securely walled up and no additional measures are required. In addition, a properly made shelf between the bathtub and the wall at the head will also additionally secure the bathtub. Just in case, I am sending you a description of the substrates, as well as a number of other useful repair tips. Good luck!

Hello, I'm going to change my cast iron bathtub to acrylic. A thin heating pipe runs under the side of the bathtub. Is it possible to allow the surface of the side of an acrylic bathtub to come into contact with the pipe? If not, what do you recommend? You are a very good source of such information. Great article about 11 mistakes. I haven’t started the repairs, but I already foresaw the problems) Thanks in advance.

Thank you, Sergey, for your kind words! My opinion about the pipe is that it is better to provide a gap of at least 5mm so that the pipe does not touch the acrylic. Still, polymers are under the influence high temperatures age faster. In general, I would like to clarify what kind of pipe this is. I encountered something similar once, but that pipe was behind a false wall, and its role was to warm up the street wall to which the bathtub adjoined. We even considered the option of demolishing the false wall and leaving the pipe under the side of the bathtub, like yours. But then they decided that the wall above the bathtub would no longer be heated by convection, and condensation would very likely appear on it. Therefore, it was decided to leave the false wall.
As thermal insulation, you can wrap a K-flex tape or any other material around the pipe. suitable material. Even a cut electric corrugation of the required diameter will do.
>>>But you are right: for me it goes without saying that the mixer should be located “at the feet” (above the bathtub drain), but for an inexperienced reader this may not be so obvious.

So the shelf should be on the opposite side of the drain?

Arranging a bathroom begins with choosing plumbing fixtures. Most often, when performing repair work, they prefer to install bathtubs from the following materials:

Cast iron- traditional material for baths. Such baths are quite expensive, but durable. They are very difficult to install, which is why cast iron equipment is now losing popularity. Such plumbing is not economical: a bathtub is quite expensive. Other disadvantages are that it takes a long time to warm up and cools down quickly.

Steel baths- inexpensive, easy to install, but they cannot be called durable. Warm up quickly, cool down quickly. Experts advise placing them in small apartments. Earthenware and glass bathtubs are too fragile compared to others.

Acrylic sanitary ware has gained great popularity due to its low price, light weight, efficiency and ease of use (warms up quickly, cools down slowly). The average service life of such baths is fifteen to twenty years.

Bathroom connection diagram

In addition, for bathrooms of different shapes, bathtubs of different geometries are chosen. The traditional shape is oval, but now round bathtubs are gaining popularity. In large apartments and houses, even polygonal bathtubs are installed.

Video on the topic: DIY bathroom renovation. Installing a bathtub, adding a shelf to the bathtub and installing a screen under the bathtub

If the choice is made in favor of acrylic plumbing fixtures, then you can install the equipment yourself. You need to watch a video with step-by-step instructions and read technical information - this way you will become familiar with the stages of the procedure and learn about the difficulties that you may encounter when installing equipment in a bathroom.

Basic rules for storing a bathtub or sink

If, after purchasing acrylic plumbing fixtures, repairs are not started immediately, then you must follow the basic storage rules:

There is no need to remove the packaging material until you begin work.
It is prohibited to place foreign objects into empty plumbing fixtures
the equipment must be securely fastened and not wobble

To prevent the surface of the plumbing from being scratched, it is important to ensure that construction debris does not fall on it.

Preparatory work for self-installation of an acrylic bathtub

Experts advise finishing the walls after installing the bathtub - this will reduce the risk of mold. The floor must be level. Also, if you are installing a cast iron bathtub, remember that the floor must be very durable. Otherwise, it may simply not withstand the weight.

Installation is carried out on special legs, but for better stability it is necessary to install an additional frame made of metal or brick. With some baths additional designs are included in the kit, but if they are not there, then it is best to make a backing made of brick, foam blocks or wooden beams.

Before starting work on installing the substrate, it is necessary to mark a projection on the bathroom floor intended for drainage.

Scheme for installing a bathtub on a brick

Traditional options for a reliable substrate:

A solid backing made of brickwork is installed under the entire acrylic bathtub or sink structure. To calculate the height of the substrate, it is necessary to leave about three centimeters of masonry for the installation of a polyurethane foam cushion
brick supports and cement pad

Step-by-step installation

To install a bathtub with your own hands, you will need cement, bricks, foam, a hammer, a fork wrench, silicone sealant, and electrical tape. You need to do the following:

prepare a waterproofed area of the required height
carry out work on installing a reliable frame
install plumbing equipment, having previously prepared it for installation
carry out the necessary finishing work

If you follow this sequence of actions, the installation of the bathtub will be completed correctly and quickly enough.

How to connect a sink or bathtub to the sewer

Many people are concerned about the bathtub installation procedure, especially the installation of a sewer outlet. If you are afraid that you will not be able to connect the bathtub yourself, contact a specialist. But if you figure out how the water should be discharged correctly, you can connect a sink or bathtub quite quickly. To better understand the process, it is useful to watch training videos on the Internet.

When connecting plumbing equipment to the sewer, you must perform the following steps:

on minimum distance it is necessary to install a water outlet
install a siphon, connecting it to the sewer pipe before installation
place a rubber coupling in the sewer pipe and install the siphon pipe
Before installing the coupling, lubricate it on both sides with silicone sealant
install a sink or bathtub

Photo of installing a bathtub on bricks

Before work, make sure that the pipe and pipe are dry. This is important for high-quality sealing.

Installation method for a corner bathtub

Corner baths are often installed in small apartments. Despite the unusual design, installing a bathtub is a fairly simple process. To independently install a corner bathtub made of acrylic, you must have certain knowledge and skills. The steps of the procedure are not much different from installing a traditional bathtub.

Photos of preparatory work

To install a corner bathtub, you must perform the following steps:

bring down the communication system
align the legs of the bathtub
create a frame
install equipment

Installation of a corner-type bathtub (as opposed to a traditional bathtub) must be done on a combined base of special legs mounted into a brick base.

If your bath has electrical options, you must install a grounded outlet. Often, when installing such plumbing, sound insulation is also carried out. Special material placed between the bathtub and the floor.

Photo of bathtub installation and trim

Often, when replacing plumbing fixtures in a bathroom, you also have to change other equipment. It is best to do this at the same time so as not to damage communications and finishing.

Source: remont.youdo.com

Video on the topic:

Installation of acrylic and steel bathtub

We bring the bathtub into the room vertically on its side, holding the edge of the bathtub with one hand and the previously installed support leg with the other. We install it in a permanent place, moving it close to the walls, adjust it to the level, check the strength and reliability of the fixation so that the bathtub does not “dance.” Next, the siphon is connected to the bathtub and sewerage system, all possible leaks are sealed and treated with sealant. Only after this can you begin covering the walls with ceramic tiles, after which the legs are tightened until they stop.

Sometimes, a problem arises when the sewer hole is located high. This usually happens in old houses, or, in new buildings, with an improperly installed sewage system. Then the bathtub needs to be raised to an additional height, unless it is cast iron, which is quite problematic to lift. Substitute for light baths wooden blocks the desired height, or lay out a backing of red (white) brick, or, more simply, replace threaded rod for a longer one. They are sold at construction markets and plumbing stores.

A cast iron bathtub, known to us for a long time, is heavy, so install it with two people. This bathtub is good because it retains heat inside for a long time, so it is suitable for those who like to soak in aromatic foamy water for a long time, purchased once and for all.

The new bathtub is brought into the room vertically and turned over on its side, placed in its place with its bottom against the wall, and the outlet should be located on the side we need. The supports are fixed from the upper side of the bathtub with a coupling bolt; if there are wedges, they are installed by lightly tapping from the center to the edges until they are securely and firmly fixed.

An adjusting screw with a nut must first be installed on each support.

Next, the bathtub is turned bottom down and the two missing side supports are installed. Now, using a level and an adjusting screw, level the bathtub to an ideal horizontal position, without tilting. If the installation surface of the legs is smooth and slippery, it is fixed with waterproof polymer glue, or decorative plastic plugs are used.

Then connect to the water supply system by making reliable waterproofing all gaps, formed cracks and joints. The final stage of the bathroom installation is the installation of the faucet and shower hose, taking into account all the design features and ease of use in the future.

Photo of corner sealing

Decorative finishing is the final step in bathroom renovations, carried out only on a fully fixed product. You can line the bathtub with tiles, plasterboard, or purchase a special protective screen, everything according to your desire and imagination. In any case, you need to leave windows for access to pipes and drains, if necessary during emergencies. It is strictly forbidden to tightly close these places so that leaks can be eliminated at any time.

Source: remontset.ru

How to fix a bathtub: the correct sequence

Usually a special mount for the bathtub is used, depending on the material from which it is made - steel, cast iron or acrylic:

The advantages of cast iron bathtubs are durability and the ability to retain heat longer, but the disadvantages include the large weight of the bathtub. Therefore, it should be mounted on a sufficiently strong and reliable surface,
A steel bathtub can be mounted on a specially made podium. Bricks can be used to make a podium; as a result, the bathtub will stand on such a podium quite steadily and firmly, without swaying. Steel baths are much cheaper than cast iron; their main disadvantage is noise when filling with water,

Useful: to eliminate noise when filling a steel bathtub with water, you should treat its external surface with putty, which also allows the bathtub to retain heat longer.

Acrylic bathtubs have a range of positive qualities: retain heat well, do not slip, have a pleasant appearance. At the same time, the strength of such baths is inferior to the strength of baths made of cast iron and steel.
Acrylic bathtubs have a flexible bottom that can break under the weight of a heavy person. How to strengthen an acrylic bathtub? To do this, it is necessary to make a durable metal structure that is highly resistant to the shape and size of the bathtub.
In addition to the podium, special iron legs can be used to attach metal bathtubs. This method sometimes turns out to be less reliable - over time, the bath begins to sway a little.

Foaming the corner

Basic principles of fastening

Regardless of whether the question of how to attach an acrylic bathtub or a metal one is being considered, there are several general principles for its attachment:

The easiest way to attach drain pipes to the bathtub is to lay it on its side,
The first step is to connect the drain and only then attach the bathtub to the legs or podium,
Next, you should slowly move the bathtub to the wall, adjust it in height and carefully secure it,
After attaching the bathtub to the wall, you should seal the gaps where the bathtub and the wall come into contact using a special caulking mixture,
Without waiting for the mixture to harden, they also install a plastic side or plinth.

Fastening various types of bathtubs

The fasteners used for the bathtub depend on what material it is made of:

Cast iron bathtubs are usually installed on four cast supports (legs) rigidly fixed to the bathtub body. Fixing the supports depends on the design of the bathtub and is done either by driving in the metal wedges included in the kit, or by tightening the coupling bolts.
Important: if you are installing a cast iron bathtub on a bathroom floor surface with low or medium hardness. Under each support, a metal (not aluminum) lining must be installed, the diameter of which is at least 50 mm and the thickness is at least 5 mm.
Unlike heavy cast iron bathtubs, which can be securely installed even in the middle of the bathtub, lightweight steel bathtubs are securely fixed by abutting three walls of the bathroom. The bathtub is installed before the wall tiles begin to be laid, and ideally the end walls are located from each other at a distance of 3-5 mm greater than the length of the bathtub.

Bathtubs are usually installed on legs, but the main problem is that simply installing a bathtub on the floor will lead to it swaying during water procedures, which causes some discomfort.

Photo of a bathtub installed on legs

In the case of a cast iron bathtub, the most effective way to solve this problem is to build a podium at the site of its installation.

Fastening an acrylic bathtub is done in almost the same way as fastening a steel one. The main difference is that the supports are most often not attached with bolts, but are screwed directly to the bottom of the bathtub with screws. If there are no ready-made holes for complete screws in the mounting locations, you must drill them yourself.

Important: When drilling holes in acrylic, you should only use drill bits with a stop, as drilling in acrylic is very easy.

Instructions for fixing the bathtub

Let's consider the main stages of fixing the bathtub.

The final part of installing a corner bath

Video on the topic: Bath installation. How to install a bathtub with your own hands.

The first step is to figure out what material the bathtub is made of:

Cast iron bathtubs are highly durable and can retain heat for a long time. At the same time, they also have a very high weight, so the best option for securing a cast-iron bathtub is to build a podium.
Steel bathtubs are characterized by lower weight and cost, as well as simplicity. At the same time, their service life is also significantly lower than that of cast iron bathtubs.
In addition, steel bathtubs quickly lose the attractiveness of their appearance, since the enamel comes off quite easily.
Acrylic bathtubs are comfortable, attractive in appearance, and also retain heat well.

At the same time, when thinking about how to secure an acrylic bathtub, one should take into account its low strength, since there are cases when an acrylic bathtub could not withstand the weight of a full person, which resulted in its legs being pressed inside.

The podium should only support the bottom of the bathtub, while its legs should remain on the floor.
The podium is usually made of brick and leveled using a bubble level.
After constructing the podium, a bathtub is installed on it and the height of the legs is adjusted. Leveling the height will be significantly easier due to the fact that the bathtub now rests on the podium and not on the legs.

The bathtub is laid on its side and an overflow pipe is installed outside to prevent the bathtub from overflowing. An outlet is installed at the bottom of the bath.

The floor siphon is connected to the overflow and outlet of the bathtub.
The legs are attached to the bathtub and installed in such a way as to insert the siphon pipe into the sewer pipe.
Move the bathtub close to the walls of the bathroom.
The joint between the drain and the siphon is caulked.
Place small wooden plates under the legs installed bath so that the bath has a slight slope towards the drain, which prevents water from accumulating inside the tank.
After the bathtub is securely fastened and the height of the gap between the walls and sides of the bathtub is adjusted, it is sealed using putty or cement.
After the bathtub is installed, it is covered with drywall. On top of it, tiles are laid in the bathroom or a plastic screen is installed under the bathtub.

Covering an installed bathroom with plasterboard

Source: eto-vannaya.ru

Determining the optimal height of the bathtub from the floor

Bathroom renovations are always accompanied by precise calculations and careful measurements. After all, everything here is interconnected: plumbing fixtures are installed taking into account the location of pipes and drains, cabinets and shelves are in optimal places for use.

Even the height of the bathtub from the floor is very significant, and this parameter should be taken into account when carrying out any repair work.

If plumbing installation and repairs are carried out by professionals, then be sure to expect them to ask: what height of the bathtub from the floor do you need. It is worth thinking in advance what answer to give to the masters. To do this, you will need to analyze the following information:

The height of family members living in the house - it is always difficult for short people to climb over high sides
If there are children and elderly relatives in the house, it will also be difficult for them to cope with great heights due to their age and build.
Do you plan to decorate the walls with tiles, and what size will the elements be?

When the installation height is standard - 60 cm, the ceramic tiles lie exactly two or three rows from the floor. There is no need to cut it and adjust it to size. This is very convenient for installation, more aesthetically pleasing in appearance and reduces the consumption of finishing material.

The tiles lie in perfect rows when there is exactly 60 cm from the floor to the sides of the bathtub

As for the distance from the sides of the sanitary ware to the floor, it can easily be changed during the installation process. Of course, the presence of adjustable legs should be clarified at the purchase stage, so that there are no problems in the future.

It is worth deciding in advance on the distance of the sides from the floor, since after installing cast iron plumbing fixtures it will be difficult to change anything due to the large weight of the product.

Acrylic products are in greatest demand among other types of plumbing fixtures, as they are lightweight, have good thermal conductivity, simple installation and elegant design. However, such equipment is sensitive to improper care and are easily damaged by shock loads. The height of the acrylic bathtub from the floor can be adjusted without problems, thanks to the adjustable legs of the product.

Steel bathtubs are also easy to install, but are less popular than acrylic and cast iron. They are mounted with support on three walls, as they are not very stable. But their main disadvantages are that they quickly cool the water and are quite noisy during operation.

Since most bathtubs offered on the plumbing market have adjustable legs, installation problems usually do not arise.

So, the standard height of the bathtub from the floor is 60 centimeters, but if this figure is somehow inconvenient, then when installing the product you can choose your own option. You shouldn’t experiment too much - it’s better to choose a comfortable height in the range of 50-70 cm from the floor.

Height from the floor determines the comfort when using sanitary products by a person

Laying brick around a corner bath

When choosing a bathtub, you should not confuse two parameters: the depth of the product and the height from the floor. The height is determined by the distance from the horizontal floor to the sides.

The depth is measured on the inside - also from the sides, but only to the bottom. If the installation of the bathtub is already close, and you have not yet decided on its height from the floor, then try to find best option empirically. Or listen to the advice of professional builders who will suggest the best solution based on the interior of the room, the location of the decoration on the walls, and also taking into account the outlet of pipes and sewer drains.

Source: vannaguide.ru

Acrylic bathtubs are popular due to their attractive appearance, variety of designs and colors, affordable price and ease of installation. In addition, acrylic bathtubs are light in weight, non-porous, most of them have an antibacterial coating, and defects can be cleaned with special pastes. But there are also disadvantages - the surface does not withstand mechanical damage, cleaning with abrasive agents, and retains heat less than cast iron bathtubs, and it is not recommended to sit on the sides of acrylic bathtubs.

Preparing to install an acrylic bathtub

The bathtub is installed in the room before it is tiled. Before choosing new bath turn off the central tap, dismantle the old bathtub, cut out or break out the old drain (depending on whether it is metal or plastic), clean the sewer socket, then insert a corrugation (an element of the drain fitting) into it and liberally lubricate the joints with silicone sealant; the floors must be carefully leveled.

After this, they begin measuring, carefully checking all the dimensions of the place where the new bath will be located. When choosing a location, keep in mind that the bathtub should not block access to the pipes, but at the same time fit snugly against the wall.

The last stage of preparing the bathroom is removing construction debris.

Bathroom installation and connection diagram

The shape of the bathtub can be not only rectangular, but also other geometric shapes- round, square, corner and others. At the same time, despite the shape, the walls of the bathtub should not bend under hand pressure, should not be translucent, and there should be no pungent chemical odor.

A sign of quality is the number of supports. A fairly high-quality product has four corner supports, a less durable one has more. Included with your purchase, check the quality certificates, product lot number, availability of installation instructions, fittings, quality and quantity of fasteners.

Options for installing an acrylic bathtub: frame with legs, brickwork and a combination of these two methods. The most correct is the first method, installing the bathtub on a special frame, which should come with the bathtub.

Tools and materials for work

One of the preparatory stages is the preparation of materials and tools for work. You should stock up on the following:

mounting gun for sealant,
building level,
adjustable wrench,
corrugated or rigid tube.

Tiling an installed bathroom

How to install an acrylic bathtub with your own hands

Before you begin assembling and installing the bathtub, you must turn it over.

unpack all the frame fastening parts,
put guide marks with a pencil, one will be located closer to the drain, the other closer to the head of the bathtub,

according to these marks, we drill holes for the screws (it is advisable to mark the drill with a piece of electrical tape so that it does not go through the bathtub, and the hole is not more than six millimeters deep),
We screw the fastening brackets with self-tapping screws, and the legs of the product to them.

Siphon installation

Brickwork for subsequent installation of a bathtub on it

connect the upper drain hole, then the lower one,
we assemble the siphon,

degrease the surfaces with a solvent and apply a layer of plumbing sealant.
turn the bathtub over and, using a level, measure the degree of curvature of the bathtub along and across it and, accordingly, twist the legs in the desired direction.

Bathroom with glued sound insulation

The bathtub is adjusted according to the level

Installing hooks to prevent the bathtub from tipping over

Photo of making a bathroom box

mark the line of the edge of the bathtub on the wall,
drill holes with a hammer drill,
We attach the hooks to the wall with dowels,
We place the bathtub on these hooks.

Drain connection

We connect the siphon to the sewer using a corrugated or rigid tube.

Bathroom installation

We check the bathtub for leaks (fill the bathtub with water and carefully look to see if there is a leak, if one is found, we re-treat it with plumbing sealant, having previously dried and degreased the surfaces).

Bathroom installation process

Source: stroyvopros.net

How to install a bathtub on bricks: lay out the brick base and side

The method of installing a bathtub depends on the type of room (combined with a bathroom or stand-alone) and its area, the size of the bathtub itself, the presence of other plumbing fixtures and household appliances, furniture, etc. Maximum stability is ensured by installing the bathtub on bricks. At the very beginning, we would like to note that ergonomic requirements require maintaining a distance to the side of the bath of about 0.9 m.

Foam as sound insulation

Installing a bathtub on legs does not guarantee its stability: the screw fastening becomes loose over time, reducing static. The most reliable location for a cast iron bowl is on solid brickwork. But simply placing the bowl on such a “pedestal” is not enough.

It is necessary to do the work efficiently, which means slowly, step by step, to carry out the installation so that there is no gap between the side of the bathtub and the wall, where water gets in, and then, over time, mold forms. First, you need to understand that cast iron products are heavy in themselves, and if you take into account the average dimensions of bathtubs 80x160 with a height of 50 cm, then it is clear why installation must be done by at least two people.

A cast iron bathtub must be installed on a base made of brick. Note: despite the seeming archaism of such baths, they are actively used, because... The heat capacity of cast iron is many times greater than all other materials!

Brick base for a cast iron bath

Just a few steps and the bathtub will be installed solid foundation. To do this you need:

Installation of a corner bath

Measure the room and bathtub, consider its location in relation to other household appliances and plumbing equipment.
Prepare the bricks. You need just enough of them to be able to lay a scaffold 2-3 bricks high across the bathhouse. On average, 20 pieces. To create a recess (bed), another half brick is laid along the edges. Depending on the length of the product, the number of rows is calculated, taking into account that the optimal distance between them is 50 cm. The height of a bathtub on bricks from the sides to the floor should not be higher than 0.7 m in order to fit into it comfortably. The height of the front stage is 17 cm, and at the other end it is 2 cm higher.

The masonry is done using a sand-cement mortar: for one part of cement there are 4 parts of sand mixed with water. The edges of the container are attached to the wall with tile adhesive. For greater reliability, the side surfaces of the bathtub adjacent to the wall, and the wall itself, are treated in the same way. This ensures, firstly, a strong “wall-tub” connection; and secondly, the adhesive base creates a sealing of the seams. Ideally, for good adhesion of the mortar to the bricks, you need to give the masonry time to stand for at least a day.

A siphon with an overflow is mounted on a bathtub that has not yet been installed. To do this, turn the bowl on its side and equip the drain hole under the siphon with rubber seals to prevent water leakage. To avoid having to “turn” the container again soon, it is better to immediately take care of a high-quality, reliable siphon. The sewer pipe with drain must be located below the outlet pipe of the siphon.
A bathtub is installed on the prepared surface on a level placed on the bottom, horizontally without a slope. But the outer edge is made literally half a centimeter higher than the inner edge (so that there is no spillage of water over the edge onto the floor).
Correct installation of a cast-iron bathtub on bricks involves connecting the drain to the sewer hose in two ways: a strong and more reliable rigid connection: a plastic pipe and elbow with an angle of 45° and 90° are used, a flexible and movable compensation plastic corrugation is connected tightly using a seal to the sewer inlet.

It is necessary to ensure free supply of hot and cold water supply pipes and drainage systems. It is important to immediately ensure that the installation is correct. To do this, the container is filled with water and the drain is opened. If the liquid does not leave immediately, but with delays, then there is a misalignment.

One more nuance. Before installing the bathtub, calculate the distance from its rear end to the wall. If there is excess space, it also needs to be bricked. An alternative is a support box under the bowl, just below the side.

Brick rim for a steel bathtub

The technology for installing different bathtubs is generally the same. The undoubted advantage of steel sanitary containers - their low weight (about 30 kg) - is one of the reasons for instability.

A steel bathtub can be installed on metal profiles, and then the structure is complemented by brickwork

Installation work is carried out even before the walls are covered. Before installation, the bricks for the bathtub are pre-pasted with rolls of plastic guerlain, and the walls are treated with a moisture-proof compound. The fabric layer at its base serves as a separating element (compensator) between cement mortar and a body that changes its geometric parameters and shape depending on heating or cooling with water. For better adhesion and elimination of air zones between surfaces, tile adhesive is applied to the layer.

Forming a bathroom screen

A “shirt” made of the same guerlain, in which the entire iron bath is packed, not only increases strength, but also serves as an excellent sound insulator, muffling the noise of falling water.

Between the red brick columns, when the bath is filled with water, polyurethane foam is blown from below. When the foam increases in volume as it hardens, it can lift a light container above the racks. The weight of the water holds the bathtub on the bricks. Foam heat insulator is also a good sound absorber. Finishing work is carried out with provided hatches for inspection of plumbing units.

It is important to note that steel plumbing products need to be grounded. The best way to do this is to use an industry tested grounding device.

Installing a bathtub with your own hands is a rather complex process that requires certain skills and abilities. A bathtub is a large item that needs careful handling: it’s easy to ruin the enamel, but it’s almost impossible to restore it. The intricacies of this process will be discussed in the article.

Model selection

If it is expected complete replacement baths, you need to immediately decide on your choice. Only a competent approach will help you buy a plumbing fixture that will fully meet the needs of all apartment residents. Among the options on the market, the most popular products can be identified:

Steel- They are affordable and easy to use. The peculiarity of this option is that, with certain skills, such a bathtub can be installed by one person. The only drawback is that the enamel of such a product deteriorates extremely quickly, so durability is out of the question. A steel bathtub is an ideal solution for small rooms where it is necessary to install the plumbing fixture as close to the wall as possible. This allows you to significantly protect yourself from deformation and the need for replacement in the future.
Cast iron– have a long service life and do not require special treatment. However, such baths are characterized by extremely high cost and complexity of installation, which is caused by their significant weight. It is impossible to install a bathtub on a ready-made siphon, so you have to attach it to it in advance, which is quite difficult in cramped conditions of a small space.
Plastic- have become very popular recently and can boast of their environmental safety, durability and attractive appearance. Acrylic bathtubs are more expensive than steel ones, but they are cheaper than cast iron ones.

You should work with such a plumbing device very carefully, as it is quite easy to damage the surface. According to other characteristics, the acrylic option is considered one of the most suitable for modern bathrooms.

Having decided on the material suitable for manufacturing, you can begin to select the size of the product. During the selection process, you should pay attention to the height of the side, the depth of the bowl, its length and width. Most suitable height Plumbers can be identified by the average height of family members. In addition, you should definitely take into account the presence of children in the apartment. For adults, the optimal height is 60-70 cm. If you have children, it is better to choose smaller products.

Each type of bathtub has its own distinctive features in terms of dimensions:

Cast iron products are presented in two versions: miniature (120x70 cm) and European standard (140x70 cm).
The length of the bowl of a steel bath is 150-180 cm, and the width is 85 cm. Sometimes on the market you can find products made of economy-type steel. The length of this model is 120 cm, which makes it an excellent option for a small room.
Acrylic bathtubs come in a wide variety, so there are a lot of options when choosing. On the market you can find models with long and short bowls. It all depends on the overall configuration of the product.

The bath can be wall-mounted or corner. A distinctive feature of wall-mounted products is that they are mounted as close as possible to one of the walls, while corner products are installed at the corners.

Wall-mounted bathtubs come in the most different forms. The most popular is oval, which looks more stylish and elegant. As for corner baths, they are usually found with regular geometry, less often in asymmetrical shapes.

When choosing a bath for a city apartment, you need to take into account the available space, as well as the minimum set of furniture to be installed.

Finally, you need to decide on the manufacturer of the plumbing equipment:

Cast iron bathtubs on the domestic plumbing market are represented by three major manufacturers: "Universal", Roca and Jacob Delafon.
Among steel options, products of domestic companies are in great demand, and among foreign ones one can highlight the Spanish brand Roca and Portuguese products BLB.
Acrylic bathtubs are presented in the greatest variety. On the market you can find products from European countries, Turkey and China. Among the most famous manufacturers we can highlight a Czech company Ravak, Polish Cersanit and Kolo, Spanish Pool Spa.

On this moment Quaryl baths are produced by only one company - a German brand Villeroy&Boch. The fact is that this company is both the developer of the technology itself and the creator of the material, so the right to produce products belongs only to it. For this reason, you do not need to believe if they try to sell you a quaril product from another manufacturer.

Preparing the bathroom

Before installing this plumbing product, it is necessary to prepare the entire room, which will allow for proper installation and guarantee the durability of the bath. First you need to pay attention to the walls. If the installation of a new bathtub is carried out simultaneously with renovations in the room, then the cladding should be carried out after installation. If repair work is not carried out, then the new plumbing fixture should be at least a few centimeters higher than the old one. Only in this case can you achieve an attractive appearance, and also make sure that there are no gaps.

Particular attention must also be paid to the floor, which must be perfectly flat and reliable, without baseboards, and capable of supporting the weight of the product being installed.

Even an empty cast-iron bathtub weighs quite a lot, so the base for it must be prepared correctly. Not every tile can withstand such a load. The ideal option is if the tiles are laid on solid cement, this ensures maximum strength and reliability. If there is even a minimal void under the tile, then from such pressure it will immediately crack.

If it is not possible to carry out repair work on the floor covering, you can simply lay two strong larch boards, which will reduce the pressure on the floor and tiles.

However, the wood must be pre-treated with fungicides, since the bathroom is a fairly damp room, so all materials should be protected from rotting. Using a plank cushion you can not only get rid of problems with the load on the floor covering, but also solve issues related to the height of the bathtub.

Installation of different types of baths

In the modern market there are a large number of bathtubs that differ from each other in their characteristics, cost, appearance, performance properties and installation features. In order for the installed plumbing fixture to last as long as possible and fully perform its assigned functions, it is necessary to take into account its type during installation.

Acrylic

Before installing such a product, it is necessary to attach to it all the guides for the legs, which will be installed crosswise - on special screws. Each acrylic bathtub comes with special instructions that explain how to mark the fasteners. The supports should be applied perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bathtub, marking all the necessary places with a pencil. The drilling depth cannot exceed 25% of the length of the screw.

It is necessary to install the drain fittings by turning the bathtub on its side. To ensure everything goes as smoothly as possible, you need to adhere to the following recommendations:

each gasket must be lubricated with silicone before installation;
the gasket is installed from the outside;
it is better to choose a conical gasket, which is installed with the tip to the hose, so that during the tightening process it does not damage the spacer;
Threaded connections must be tightened tightly, but not too tight, otherwise they may burst.

photos

When all this is done, you can turn the plumbing fixture over and install the legs. It should be noted that you will not be able to cope with the installation of such a product on your own, so you will definitely need a partner. A more experienced person should be on the drain side to constantly monitor its location and installation.

The acrylic bathtub should be moved as closely as possible to the wall, which will ensure more convenient use and prevent damage to the product. When the model is installed in its place, leveling and sealing against leakage should be carried out. First we use the sealant, and carry out the rest of the work only after it has dried.

After the sealant has hardened, it is necessary to check for leaks, because after finishing the work it will be extremely difficult to return to the previous stage. If there are no leaks, then using silicone it is also necessary to seal the gaps between the sides of the bathtub and the wall.

Metal

Installation of a steel bathtub is carried out in the same way as an acrylic one. The only exception is the installation of legs, which must be inserted into fasteners and secured with bolts and nuts. It is necessary to fix them as firmly as possible, tapping them with a rubber hammer. The legs should not wobble, otherwise the steel bathtub may damage them.

Most plumbers advise installing pieces of rubber under the surfaces of the legs in contact with the bowl of the sanitary ware, which will significantly reduce the ringing when filling the bathtub with water.

The most difficult thing to install is a cast iron bathtub, which is extremely heavy, so moving it is very difficult and dangerous for repairing the room itself. If the size of the room allows, you need to move the product to the bathroom and install it there. First - drain and legs, then leveling is carried out.

If a cast iron model is equipped with decorative legs, this greatly complicates installation. The fact is that the installation of such a product is a rather labor-intensive and responsible process that only an experienced and professional craftsman can handle. It will not be possible to install pads under the legs, since this completely destroys the attractive appearance of the product, and filing is extremely difficult, because precise measurements are required here.

Moreover, each time you will need to turn the bathtub over, move it or move it on its side, which is extremely difficult, given its significant weight. For this reason, to install a cast-iron bathtub, which is equipped with decorative legs, it is necessary to first level the floor surface (using materials of increased strength).

Jacuzzi

Hydromassage baths are quite interesting and useful products for improving people's health. The combination of water and air bubbles provides relaxing and therapeutic effects. The Jacuzzi first appeared in the United States of America, this happened in the middle of the last century. For a long time Only very wealthy people could afford a jacuzzi.

Now manufacturers of sanitary products offer a wide variety of models that are affordable. In the era of high technology, there are many hot tubs on the market today, which are distinguished by their small size, wide range of functions and attractive appearance.

The installation technology of such models has its own nuances and distinctive features, so it is better to entrust the installation to an experienced specialist.

Before starting installation, you should prepare all the diagrams and manufacturer’s recommendations, as well as accurately mark the places where adhesion to the sewer and installation will take place. electrical wiring, and ensure water supply. Due to the need to connect electricity, the installation of such a model must be carried out in strict compliance with fire safety requirements, otherwise everything can lead to dire consequences. In this case, special attention must be paid to the power of the device and the voltage in electrical system apartments or houses.

When installing a jacuzzi, you should also take into account the fact that sockets, switches and other devices must be located at a distance of at least 70 cm from the bath itself. Otherwise, it may lead to oxidation (due to high humidity). This may cause a fire.

Included with any hydromassage bathtub are special legs that allow you to secure the model in the required position and at a certain height so that there are no distortions. If you do not install the Jacuzzi on its legs, then during operation it will vibrate, which will not allow you to get the desired effect from its operation.

Installation of the legs should be carried out as carefully as possible, using a building level, which will allow for accuracy. After leveling, the Jacuzzi can be connected to other communications through a gate.

Built-in option

It will not be possible to install a built-in bathtub into the floor without a pit. Moreover, an ordinary dug hole will not work here. It will also be necessary to concrete the walls and floor, thereby ensuring the space necessary for installation and maintenance of plumbing fixtures. When installing a built-in bathtub, certain nuances should be taken into account:

The contours of the pit must coincide with the contours of the bath and be overlapped by its sides. In other words, the bathtub should be supported by the sides.
The depth should be such that the plumbing product is raised above the base by 50 mm or less.
Access to the pit should be provided so that the connection and installation of the bath can be carried out without problems. All water and sewer lines are located here. The ideal solution All pipes will be hidden in an invisible hatch.

Work order

To understand the general principles of installing a bathtub, you should consider the sequence of work, which will be the same for any model, including acrylic and cast iron options. Of course, each type has its own distinctive features, there are also certain installation subtleties, but first you need to find out the general principles and rules of installation.

So, installing a bathtub includes the following steps:

Assembly and installation of the drain siphon. Most of the models on the market are assembled using union nuts and rubber seals. Beginners often make the mistake of sealing joints, which in the future causes the product to break. The assembly diagram should be used.
Installation of the bathtub on supports. Here you should also be extremely careful. There are quite a few designs of supporting elements for a bathtub. You can find both complex and simple options. Some craftsmen prefer to use foam blocks or bricks rather than factory legs. Steel options look much better when installed this way.
Insulation and sound insulation. This stage applies to all types of bathtubs, except cast iron, which already heat up well and long time keep warm. In addition, they do not make too much noise when filling. Heat and sound insulation should be carried out using polyurethane foam, which is applied not only to the bottom, but also to the sides of the sanitary ware. The amount of foam directly depends on the size of the bath.

Installation. For ease of use, any bathtub should be aligned relative to the horizon. During the installation process there is no need to lay down slopes, since this point is taken into account by the manufacturer when developing the bathtub. The support legs are equipped with screws for adjustment.
Fastening. This stage also applies only to steel and acrylic bathtubs, since the cast iron product’s own weight is quite enough not to sag under the pressure of water and people. Fastening must be done using metal hooks, which are usually used for installing boilers. In addition, you can use special brackets supplied by the manufacturer with the bathtub. This fastening allows you to prevent depressurization during operation of the sanitary ware.
Sealing joints. This stage is the last. This work can be done in several ways. In most cases, it will be advisable to use a white corner, but you can get by with self-adhesive border tape. If the gap between the bathtub and the wall is minimal, you can limit yourself to one bottle of sanitary silicone.

If you are installing a corner bathtub, you need to pay attention to a number of features. Such products are rounded or oval shape, and they must be mounted on a pre-prepared pedestal or wooden frame.

Important nuances

During the installation of the bathtub, you should be extremely careful so that the product can fully perform its functions and last as long as possible. Pay attention to the following points:

the legs are mounted in such a way that the outlet element of the siphon (piping) can be installed into the sewer pipe without any problems;
the bathtub must be installed with a slope;
It is imperative to take into account the parallelism of the sides relative to the floor.

The tightness of the junctions between the bathtub and the sewer must be monitored. When you are planning to start using a plumbing fixture, you should pour 10 liters of cold and hot water.

If a bathtub with hydromassage or other electronic functions is installed, it is necessary to check the correctness of the additional communications.

When installing a bathtub, you should also take into account the main problems associated with the material from which the product is made. Acrylic options have the following disadvantages.

When hot water is added, the walls of the sanitary ware begin to “play.” This is caused by the fact that heated acrylic walls lose their original rigidity.
Legs - another one weak side acrylic sanitary ware. Standard legs don't offer impressive stability. Even if you set everything to the ideal level, you still won’t be able to save the situation.
The bottom of such a bathtub feels great under light loads, but it can sag greatly due to its significant weight.
When water is drawn in, a drumming effect occurs, caused by the thinness of the walls of the acrylic bathtub. This deficiency is noticeable in any bathtub, but in acrylic it is most pronounced.

Cast iron and steel bathtubs boast good thermal insulation, but acrylic options in this regard leave much to be desired. Heated water quickly warms up the walls, but also cools them just as quickly. This problem can be solved using conventional cylinders with polyurethane foam. In addition, this method allows you to solve the problem associated with soundproofing the bathtub.

Foaming is carried out as follows:

the bathtub is turned upside down, and cardboard or other protective material(this insert is needed in order to acrylic surface not scratched);
the surface is cleaned of dust and dirt;
foam is applied and residues are removed from the surface.

It is much more economical and comfortable to use a foam gun, but if you don’t have one, you can limit yourself to a simple cylinder.

To ensure the durability and efficiency of the entire structure, you should choose the material of the drain fittings wisely.

Most of the products on the market are made of polyvinyl chloride or propylene, which are reliable, attractive in appearance and durable. The latter material is much more expensive, but the walls are smoother, which greatly reduces the likelihood of blockages.

The idea of purchasing cheap models of drain fittings should be abandoned immediately. The fact is that budget models are non-separable, so they are not suitable for repair. After just a couple of months of use, the rust grabs the bolt so tightly that it is impossible to unscrew it.

You should not buy a rigid pipe. An excellent solution would be a corrugated hose, which is extremely easy to install and guarantees excellent water permeability. Thanks to this, you can be sure that the bathroom will not flood.

Dismantling

If the bath has expired, the siphons have rusted or become unsuitable for use, it is better to replace the old bowl with a new one.

Initially, it seems that this is quite simple and does not require professional skills, but it is extremely difficult to remove the bathtub correctly so as not to damage the enamel or other parts of the product. You need to proceed as follows:

Make sure the bathtub legs are securely fastened, since during dismantling the plumbing product may fall and damage a person’s fingers. This may well happen if one of the legs is rotten or deformed. To fix the supports, special wedges should be used, which must be secured properly.
Now you can begin to disconnect the siphon and drains. Drain design Usually it can be disassembled quite easily, but there are cases when it is made of the same material as the bathtub. As a result of long-term use, the parts may rust to each other, so dismantling can only be done with the help of an angle grinder.
The perimeter of the bath is secured with a cement-sand mortar. To get rid of the connecting layer, you can use a hammer or hammer drill. The frozen solution must be beaten off as carefully as possible so as not to damage the tiles.
Once the bathtub is detached from the wall, you can begin the next stage of dismantling. The bathtub is moved away from the wall using a pry bar, which is used as a lever.

In this case, the weight of the structure must be taken into account. Do not forget that it greatly exceeds the weight of an acrylic or iron product.

It is much more difficult to dismantle a cast iron bathtub if it is necessary to maintain its integrity and attractive appearance. This type of plumbing is different large sizes and significant weight, so it will not be possible to dismantle it yourself. Over the years of use, the bathtub is so firmly fixed to the wall and floor covering that it is extremely difficult to remove it.

Cast iron bathtubs can last a very long time, which is why they are in great demand. Starting de installation work, determine whether it can be restored protective covering or not. There are many ways to significantly extend the life of a bathtub; one of the most effective and in demand recently is the use of an acrylic liner. The complexity of restoration work depends on a number of factors, including the weight and size of the model.

The above instructions are designed to dismantle the product with minimal deterioration in the appearance of the room itself. This only means replacing plumbing equipment.

If you decide to carry out a major renovation of the bathroom (with the replacement of all communications and plumbing fixtures), then you don’t have to worry about the integrity of the product.

Dismantling without saving the bowl will be faster, since the algorithm of actions is very simple. The only thing you will need to pay attention to is safety precautions, because with the wrong approach you can damage your legs or arms.

To clean the bathtub, you need to carry out the following work:

First, you should disconnect the siphon from the plumbing fixture itself. This can be done using a regular grinder.
Using a hammer drill, you need to disconnect the bathtub from the wall.
Since the bathtub will not be used in the future, you can cut it into several parts. This will not only simplify the dismantling process, but will also allow you to remove it from the premises without any problems.
You can hit the bottom with a sledgehammer. Usually one good blow is enough for the product to split into several parts. You can effectively disassemble a bathtub into several fragments thanks to gas cutting.
If dismantling is carried out by one person, the bath should be divided into many parts. Cast iron models are quite heavy, so each piece will be quite heavy.

When starting work, first of all pay attention to the material from which the sanitary ware is made. This will help you choose the most suitable way dismantling.

So, it can be noted that installing a bathtub is a complex and responsible process that requires a competent approach and care. It is important not only to choose the right plumbing fixture, but also to professionally prepare the room for its installation. In the selection process, you should pay attention to the material, size and shape of the product, as well as its manufacturer.

You should move steel and plastic plumbing products with extreme care, because such coatings can be damaged and deformed. The easiest way to work is with a cast iron bathtub, which is so heavy and durable that it is almost impossible to break. However, improper transportation can cause damage to the wall or door in the bathroom, as well as increased pressure on the floors. All this is also complicated by the fact that the installation of the bath takes place in a small room, where it is extremely difficult for two people to fit.

One of the most important conditions For self-installation bathroom is to have a skilled assistant who can support the plumbing product, provide the necessary tools and provide other necessary assistance. When installing this type of plumbing, you must be careful and careful, because an accidentally dropped bathtub can lead to a crack or breakage. If cast iron models can somehow be revived, then a damaged acrylic product cannot be repaired, so it will have to be replaced.

1. The bath is an important part of any apartment. Every apartment resident spends a significant portion of their room in the bathroom.

However, sooner or later, we are faced with the need to replace the bathroom with a new one. And here that knowledge will come to the rescue,
which we have outlined below. First of all, you need to dismantle the old bathtub. As a rule, this is associated with certain difficulties, since
the old coupling bolts are most likely rusty and it is simply impossible to turn them out with a wrench - the wrench erases the bolt head stops, but the bolt
and does not scroll - in this case it will have to be cut off with a grinder. Also, most likely we will encounter difficulties associated with dismantling the drain and
overflow grate. Previously, they were made of brass - a soft material; when dismantled, such a grille could simply break, and then you would have to
carry out dismantling using non-standard methods. One of them is this: using a hacksaw blade, we cut out the lattice segments, positioning the blade perpendicularly
inner ring.

Cut out the drain hole using a hacksaw or grinder Break the drain grate using a hammer and chisel

We make cuts from the inside and bend the segments inside the funnel. We do the same with the counterpart of the ring under the bathtub.
Now you can easily pull out the drain grate through the hole in the bathroom. We dismantle the overflow grille in the same way if it cannot be removed in the usual way.
When the grates are removed, we dismantle the drain and overflow pipes. If the drain pipe is embedded in the sewer with cement, carefully break the cement, then remove the pipe.
The hole in the sewer pipe must be closed with a plug (this can be a piece of wood adjusted to the diameter of the pipe, or simply a gag made from pieces of rags).

Remove the siphon and overflow from under the bathtub Free the walls of the bathtub

Now is the time to remove the bathtub and free up the room. To do this, break the tiles that secure the edges of the bathtub and remove it from the base.
The bathtub is carried out vertically through the doorway. When the bathroom space is freed up, we begin installing a new bathtub.

2. In this article we consider DIY bathroom installation, without electrical components. If you plan to use baths with electrical components,
We strongly recommend using the services of professionals.
Let's look at the main types of bathtubs in order to choose the most suitable one. Traditionally, bathtubs are made of cast iron, steel and acrylic.

Free standing cast iron clawfoot bathtub

Cast iron bath It keeps warm for a long time, it is not expensive, however, such a bath is very heavy. A cast iron bathtub weighs on average about 100 kg, which makes it very
the non-trivial task of its transportation and installation.
Acrylic bathtub - made from modern material- acrylic. The bathtub is made of acrylic plastic and is reinforced to avoid sagging. She is relatively
lightweight, but more expensive than cast iron.
Steel bath- just as easy, and at the same time - cheap. Its main drawback is that the water in it cools quickly.

Circular bathtub in the bathroom interior

In addition, there are bathtubs made of many other materials - stone, copper and even wood.
Also, bathtubs differ from each other in shape. The most common is a rectangular bathtub. However, there are also round side baths -
which bring additional aesthetics to the bathroom, however, when choosing this type of bathroom, you need to remember that the water in it easily overflows,
therefore, there should be at least 5-10 cm between the bathtub and the walls in order to provide easy access for collecting spilled water.

Round bathtub installed in a frame in the interior of the bathroom

In addition, it is advisable to use special curtains, the edges of which descend into the bathtub on each side.
Before installing the bathtub, you should ensure that the surface on which the bathtub is mounted is perfectly flat. If necessary, apply a screed, or
special leveling solution. It makes sense to combine a bathtub replacement with a bathroom renovation. In this case, the floor is laid with tiles.
After this, it is necessary to allow the surface to dry thoroughly (at least 2-3 days) and only after that proceed to further work.
The next step is to lay the tiles on the walls. We recommend laying tiles completely over the entire wall, including in those places that will be hidden by the bathroom.
It is quite understandable to want to save money by skipping places under the bathtub that are not visible to the eye, but in this case, the next time you install a bathtub, you will have to
also change the tiles.
When installation of a steel bath, first the bathtub is installed, and then the tiles are laid.
In the bathroom, the bathtub is brought vertically; the threshold of the rooms is first laid with something soft. The bath is located 70-80 cm.

Installation of a drain-overflow system for a bathtub

from the installation site, with the drain hole towards the taps, and then the drain system is installed.
Often, the drain works on the principle of a drain-overflow system. Installation begins with the installation of a drain funnel. The funnel is installed in the drain hole
baths (before this, we recommend applying sealant to the inside of the funnel ring), with reverse side put on the rubber sealing ring
and a pressure (usually plastic or metal) ring.

Then the system is secured with a clamping screw - while making sure that the o-ring does not warp.

Then we screw a tee to the external thread of the funnel, so that the side outlet faces the nearest wall. When installing a tee, do not
We forget to seal it with O-rings and clamping rings.

Video: DIY bathroom installation

We install the overflow grid in a similar way, connecting it to the overflow tube, if necessary, reduce its length, cut off the upper part of the overflow
tubes. When the drainage system is ready, we install the supports (legs) of the bathtub and mount the bathtub on them. The installation technology is as follows:

the first support is installed, the bathtub is carefully laid on it, then the opposite edge of the bathtub is raised, and the second supports are placed under it.
Then we connect the drainage system to the sewer system. After this, we move the bathtub to the wall, and using a level and adjusting screws on the legs of the bathtub,
We achieve a horizontal position of the bath. Then we check the tightness of the system.
This is done in two stages: first, pour water into the bathtub and drain it; if there is no leak, fill the bathtub with water and close the plug. If in this
If there is no leak, then the bathtub is installed correctly, you can begin installing the mixer.

Installing a faucet in the bathroom

Choosing and buying a bathtub is only part of the problems in the noble task of updating a bathroom. It is very important to install the bathtub correctly, connect it to the drain and not damage the surrounding interior, especially if some of the finishing work has already been completed.

This task cannot be called simple and easy, but with certain skills, suitable tools and knowledge of important nuances, even a novice master can install a bathtub with his own hands. When installing this bulky plumbing equipment, it is very important to take into account the features of its design and the material from which the bathtub is made.

Before you go to the store and buy a bathtub, you need to do some preparatory work. First you need to dismantle and remove the old bathtub. And if there are no special problems with a steel or acrylic product, then you will have to work hard on an old cast-iron bathtub. Sometimes you just have to cut or break such a bathtub and take it out in parts.

Then you need to prepare the base. As with other types of work, dirt should be removed and uneven areas should be repaired. In most cases, it is recommended to make a new cement-sand screed and wait for it to dry.

Then you need to prepare the tools and purchase the materials that will be needed for installation work:

screwdriver;
hammer;
grinder;
chisel;
cement;
polyurethane foam;
paint;
electrical tape;
sealant, etc.

Depending on the type of bathtub, you may also need brick, timber, plywood or other materials for the frame supporting the device to finish it

It is necessary to purchase a bathtub fitting, drain fittings and other necessary elements. For plastic sewer pipes, a corrugated drain with a diameter of 50 mm is used, and for cast iron pipes, a corrugated drain with a diameter of 40 mm is used.

Another important step is to inspect the sewer drain and eliminate any identified faults. It is imperative to eliminate any possibility of leaks, otherwise you will have to dismantle the already installed device over time, and this is a complex process. At this stage, you should also consider how to connect communications in order to install the bath correctly.

You need to conveniently install a mixer with cold and hot water, and also connect the sewer. To do this, attach an overflow funnel, siphon, tee, pipes, etc.

Along with the strapping kit, the manufacturer usually includes instructions, following which you can easily connect all the components correctly without much difficulty. The assembled harness is carefully coated with sealant at the joints.

How to install a cast iron bathtub on supports?

The large weight of the cast iron bathtub gives it sufficient stability, so you can install it on legs, without additional support. After all the preparatory work has been completed, the bath should be moved to the installation site. Since a cast iron bathtub weighs quite a lot, you will need at least one assistant.

To prevent accidental damage to furniture, trim, openings and other objects when moving a heavy and bulky bathtub, it is recommended to protect it in advance problem areas shock-absorbing material.

The cast iron bathtub has a significant own weight, which allows it to be installed on supports in the form of legs without an additional base

For correct installation, follow these steps:

Place the bathtub on the floor on its side so that the bottom faces the wall and the drain is directed towards the sewer connection. This will make it more convenient to install the siphon.
Securely install the supports on the side facing up.
Carefully turn the bathtub onto the other side.
Install the remaining supports in the same way.
Place the bathtub on legs.
Using a level and adjusting bolts, level the bath so that there is a slight slope towards the drain.
Move the bathtub close to the wall.
Seal the remaining gap with polyurethane foam; you can also use tile adhesive.
Connect the corrugated drain to the installed trim using a special gasket so that its cone is directed towards the trim.
Secure the connection using a special nut.

The force applied to tighten the bolts on the supports should be moderate so as not to damage plastic base this element. After installation is completed, it is necessary to check the quality of the work performed. To do this, close the drain and fill the bath to the brim.

It is necessary to inspect the installation location of the overflow, as well as the connection between the bathtub body and the drain. Leaks at this stage are most often caused by improper installation of the gasket. If leaks are not detected, you should open the plug and observe the condition of the piping.

To quickly and accurately detect leaks, you can place a hygroscopic material on the floor: paper towels, napkins, toilet paper, etc. For small leaks, sometimes simply tightening the union nut is enough to ensure a secure connection.

The junction of the cast-iron bathtub to the wall must be fixed with cement mortar or ceramic tile adhesive, and then carefully sealed

Care should also be taken to ground the device. This step is simple to complete: a piece of wire is attached to the body of the bathtub, and its other end is brought to the nearest metal structures. After this, you can begin finishing work.

Installation of a cast iron bathtub on a brick base

The brick base is used very widely as a frame for a bathtub. It is reliable and affordable way installation, which can be successfully used for both steel and cast iron, as well as acrylic models.

While metal legs can become deformed over time, which has a fatal effect on the position of the bathtub, brick can withstand decades of use.

There are two options for installing a bathtub on a brick base: two supports are made from it, as shown in the figure above, or one large brick base is prepared.

For cast iron bathtubs, it is recommended to use a combined installation method: first, the legs are screwed on, then the structure is mounted on a brick base, in which openings are left for the legs. Given the heaviness of the bathtub itself, the base is most often made large, although sometimes two brick supports can be used.

The length and width of the brick base must correspond to the dimensions of the bottom of the bathtub. To complete brick cladding you will need about 20 bricks, as well as sand-cement mortar in a ratio of 1:4.

A combined method is considered effective when installing cast iron and acrylic bathtubs, in which the bottom of the bathtub is supported by brickwork and the legs are also used as support.

Before starting work, markings are made on the floor indicating the size and configuration of the bathtub. After laying two bricks is completed, another half-brick is added to the sides to form a recess for the bottom.

Sometimes a layer of polyurethane foam is applied to the brick support, on which a cast-iron bathtub is installed. The foam on top takes on the exact shape of the bottom and securely adheres the device to the brick base.

Foam can also be used as a material that enhances the heat and sound insulation of a bathtub. To do this, cover the entire outside bathtubs or only the bottom and sides to the middle of their height.

The bottom and sides of a cast iron or steel bathtub can be treated with polyurethane foam. This allows you to improve the sound insulation of the device, as well as increase its ability to retain heat.

After the bathtub is installed on the foam, you need to connect it to the sewer, close the drain and fill it with water approximately to the middle so that the foam sinks correctly under the weight of the bathtub. At this stage, the position of the bathtub is adjusted horizontally so that it stands level, but with a slight slope towards the drain.

In this case, the external bathtub faucet should be approximately 1 cm higher than the edge located near the wall. This will help prevent water from overflowing onto the floor. After this, you need to open the drain and watch how the water leaves. If this happens quickly, the bathtub is positioned correctly.

If the water drains too slowly, you should increase the layer of foam in the right places to level the structure. As with the installation of a cast-iron bathtub with legs, the edge adjacent to the wall must be treated with tile adhesive and sealant. All other components and connections should also be sealed.

Before finishing work, while there is free access to the bathtub piping, you should fill the bathtub with water and check the quality of sealing of the sewer drain, as well as the correctness of the set slope

Features of installing a steel bath

To understand how to install a steel bathtub, you can use the principles described above for cast iron construction. The main difference between a steel bathtub and its cast iron counterpart is its much lower physical weight, which is both an advantage and a disadvantage.

Unlike a cast iron bathtub steel structure much easier to move in space: carry, turn over, etc. With some skill, this is not difficult to do on your own. However, if a cast iron structure can stand quite confidently in the middle of the bathroom, resting only on its legs, then this option will not work with a lightweight steel device.

Steel baths must be secured on three sides. On the fourth side, it is recommended to strengthen the bathtub with brickwork, which can then be lined with ceramic tiles

During installation, do not forget to leave access to the communications and connections located under the bathroom!

If a cast-iron bathtub can simply be moved close to the tiled wall and the joint can be sealed, then a steel bathtub should be installed before laying the tiles. The optimal gap between the ends of the bathtub and the walls is five centimeters. This will allow you to freely place the device in the designated place.

If the manufacturer includes legs for the bathtub that can be adjusted in height, it is preferable to use short legs equipped with long adjusting bolts. In this case, it is advisable to use legs that are equipped with self-adhesive pads.

They prevent peeling of the enamel from the adjusting bolts, which can occur both during the adjustment process and during operation.

To install the legs of a steel bathtub, the device should be turned upside down. The surfaces to be joined are degreased with acetone or alcohol.

Here is an approximate procedure for installing a steel bathtub:

Place the bathtub bottom up, placing a soft material, for example, packaging cardboard.
Try on paired supports to the installation sites: the first - two centimeters from the outlet, the second - as close as possible to the opposite edge on a flat bottom area.
If necessary, straighten the supporting channel to ensure a tight fit of the support to the bottom of the bath.
Degrease the joints with acetone or alcohol (but not paint thinner!).
Remove the protective films from the overlays, place the supports in the places provided for them and press tightly (before the procedure, the overlay can be slightly warmed up with a hair dryer).
Carefully drive the threaded rods into the plastic ends.
Using fixing nuts, screw the ends to the supports.
Place the bathtub in the designated place with the legs down (do not hold the legs when carrying the bathtub, they may become deformed).
Pre-adjust the position of the bath using the adjusting bolts, observing the required slope.
Connect the faucet and sewer, seal the joints.
Using four narrow wedges driven between the walls and end sides baths, fix the correct position of the device.
Cover the edges of the bathtub adjacent to the walls with paper tape.
Fill the gap between the walls and sides of the bathroom with polyurethane foam.
After the foam has dried, remove the wedges, protective tape and excess foam.
Execute reference brick wall on the fourth side.
Finish brickwork tiles or install a decorative screen.

A steel bathtub reinforced in this way will be secured quite reliably and will last for many years. Sometimes, to give the structure additional stability, it is installed not on legs, but on a sand cushion.

The outer side of the bottom and sides can be treated with polyurethane foam to reduce the noise from water pouring into the bathtub and improve its ability to retain heat.

Rules for installing an acrylic bathtub

One of the advantages of acrylic structures is low weight. This allows you to carry out all installation work alone. However, for such a bathtub it is necessary to make a special frame that will hold the lightweight structure in the correct position.

It is best to purchase an acrylic bathtub, the delivery package of which includes everything necessary for successful installation. This is a set of accessories that allow you to attach the bathtub to the wall: frame frame, drain-overflow, decorative panel, installation kit decorative panel and so on. Various manufacturers They package their products in different ways; this point must be clarified when purchasing.

Practical experience of installing a bathtub on a factory frame is presented in the following video:

Acrylic bathtubs are very popular today non-standard shape, which improves the use of bathroom space or its appearance. However, the more complex the configuration of an acrylic bathtub, the more difficult it will be to install.

The frame frame can be made independently, but novice craftsmen are still recommended to use factory products, as they are more reliable and of higher quality. And the installation time will be significantly reduced by the presence of a ready-made frame.

If there is no frame, the frame is made of brick, sometimes using timber and plywood as additional materials.

The frame of an acrylic bathtub can be made of timber and plywood. At the same time, everything wooden elements must be treated with a moisture-proofing compound

The frame is secured in such a way that it is attached to the wall or other support. You should not simply connect the edge of the frame to the side of the bathtub, since in this case the entire load will fall on the frame, which does not have additional reinforcement and may break. Sometimes a special baseboard is made to secure the bathtub.

When working with wooden frame use galvanized self-tapping screws for concrete and wood, as well as drying oil, which should be used to carefully treat all wooden elements.

Vertical racks are installed in the corners of the bathtub, as well as along its sides at a distance of 50 cm from each other. The height of the vertical racks is determined as follows: measure the height of the side of the bathtub to the floor level, and then subtract the width of the upper and lower base from this indicator.

The bathtub bowl should rise above the floor level at a distance sufficient to properly connect the drain to the sewer.

Acrylic bathtubs of non-standard shape are very popular, but installing such structures is more difficult, since you will have to make a frame that exactly follows the outline of the device

If the bathtub has an uneven bottom, when installing it, it is necessary to make a base in such a way that each part of the bathtub has a reliable support of a suitable height

To install an acrylic bathtub using a homemade frame, the following plan is usually followed:

By concrete base perform brickwork, leaving a hole for drainage.
In accordance with the configuration and dimensions, the base of the frame from beams of the appropriate size and configuration is secured to the floor with self-tapping screws.
100 mm bars are placed in the places where the vertical posts are attached.
Install vertical posts.
Install the upper base.
A sheet of plywood is laid on the top base.
Treat all wooden elements with drying oil and wait until the protective layer dries completely.
After a few days, the brick base is covered with a layer of foam or cement mortar.
Install the bath on the prepared frame.
Using a building level, adjust the position of the bath.
The bath is filled with water so that the cement layer takes the shape of the bottom of the bath.
After the cement has dried, the water is drained.
Install an overflow.
Cover the frame with a decorative screen.

Regardless of the type of structure, the chosen method and the materials used, in order to properly install the bathtub, care should be taken to ensure reliable support and the correct slope of the structure. Second important point - correct connection communications and sealing of joints.

If you follow these principles, you can reliably install your bathtub yourself!