Plaster with perlite on wood concrete. How and with what to plaster wood concrete masonry? Finishing of wood concrete products

Do-it-yourself plaster on wood concrete

Wood concrete, “specific” construction material, which strongly absorbs moisture and can gradually collapse under its influence. However, this fact does not mean that walls made of wood concrete cannot be plastered with wet solutions.

You should also know that after building, its walls, at least from the outside, are recommended to be immediately insulated and decorated with finishing materials. Only in this case will their surface be reliably protected from the negative effects of moisture, and accordingly will last much longer.

When wondering how to plaster wood concrete, it is important to know that almost any modern finishing materials can be used for these purposes. Conventional cement plaster can also be used for plastering walls made of arbolite blocks. However, due to the fact that wood concrete absorbs water very strongly, the process of plastering walls itself becomes a little more complicated.


Firstly, it is recommended to apply plaster to wood concrete walls with a thickness of at least 2 centimeters. In the composition of the cement-sand mixture itself, it is recommended to add water-retaining additives or, as a last resort, 0.5-1 part of lime milk.

Plastering itself using wood concrete is not much different from plastering walls made of brick, for example, or cinder block. In a sense, it is even simplified due to the presence of a rough wood concrete surface, with a large number of cracks - the solution sticks to it much better.

Some difficulties may arise with the thickness of plaster on wood concrete, since those people who have encountered this building material for walls know that it is not always distinguished by the evenness of its geometric shapes. And if the differences in the surface of the walls are significant, then sometimes you have to add two or three layers of plaster to completely level them.

In this case, unfortunately, it is impossible to do without the use of guiding beacons. Before placing them, you should carefully mark the surface to be plastered, find the most protruding places on it, etc.


How this is done has already been discussed in previous issues. As for plastering arbolite blocks, the situation here is similar. The only difference is in the number of layers thrown on and their thickness.

The first layer of plaster should not be made too large, but before adding the second layer, you need to wait a while. Fortunately, wood concrete, as mentioned above, absorbs moisture very strongly, which you can see with your own eyes by watching a video about wood concrete blocks.

Video about wood concrete blocks

Wood concrete is a very unique building material and is used for its finishing. various technologies. Plastering wood concrete walls with a plaster mixture is the first and main method of exterior finishing of a house. The principle of finishing is that it is necessary to avoid materials that can harm the wood concrete. Due to the fact that this building material has a large-porous structure, it must be finished to prevent moisture penetration. If moisture gets inside the material, it will begin to deteriorate from the inside. The type of protective and finishing coating is determined in each specific case depending on the purpose of the building, its location, as well as the amount of funds invested in construction.

Since the surface of the wood concrete is rough, the adhesion to the plaster will be as high as possible. In this case, there is no need for preliminary preparation of the material for finishing. Although many experts recommend stuffing metal mesh for better grip. It is also believed that this can significantly extend the life of the finish. It is very easy to secure the mesh using nails and a hammer.

There are two options: either we use only rough plaster, which we cover with a ventilated facade, or we cover the block with rough and finishing mortar. The first layer always plays a protective role, the second (finishing decorative mixture or installation of panels/lining) – aesthetic.

Now that it is clear what solutions we need, let's choose the most suitable one.

Rough plaster

  • Cement-sand mixture. The most common and cheapest type of plaster mortar. For standard width walls made of wood concrete (300 mm) need a layer of 20 mm. It doesn’t “breathe” very well, but it’s suitable for rough cladding (especially when it comes to garages, workshops, and wood concrete bathhouses);
  • Lime plaster. The base is lime. Slightly more expensive than cement plaster, but has greater vapor permeability. It fully retains the properties of wood concrete and protects no worse than cement-sand. After applying a layer of plaster, putty over the primer. After this work, some developers paint the walls with facade paint.

What is typical is that reinforcing mesh is not needed for plastering walls made of wood concrete: the large-porous structure of the block already plays its role. If the wood concrete block is produced using the correct technology (specifically, without lubricating the mold with industrial oil), then there will be no greasy stains, and the plaster will lie smoothly and firmly.

Finish plaster

Finishing solutions are, in any case, those that are applied to the rough layer: in this case, they can play a role decorative covering or intended for painting. Accordingly, they are divided into two large groups– decorative and ordinary. The second type also requires the use of a primer - for adhesion to the paint.

  • Gypsum plaster. The main component is gypsum with various fillers;
  • Decorative plaster. There are lime, acrylic, latex. Acrylic plaster is one of the most convenient. Exists in the form ready-made mixtures. It has very good vapor permeability, which is a great advantage for wood concrete.

So, how can you plaster wood concrete walls?

  1. Rough plaster + lathing + ventilated facade
  2. Water repellent + lathing + ventilated facade
  3. Rough plaster + finishing plaster + primer + painting
  4. Rough plaster + finishing decorative plaster

Some experts add lime paste (about 0.5-1 part) or water-retaining additives to regular cement mortar.

However, it is worth considering that when adding certain additives (expanded polystyrene, foam glass or slag), the walls will “breathe” worse. This occurs due to different vapor permeability parameters of the materials, which results in the formation of a dew point (the walls freeze and become covered with damp spots inside). If you do not want to interfere with the air permeability of wood concrete, then it is recommended to use expanded clay, barite, perlite or vermiculite as additives.

Plastering arbolite walls

The process of applying external plaster to wood concrete differs from the processing of other concrete in its simplicity. Apply protective layer can be done almost immediately after construction; it is not necessary to treat the surface or use reinforcing mesh.

The use of reinforcing mesh in the process of plastering walls made of wood concrete will increase the service life of the finish, but even without it, the plaster composition will firmly “stick” to the surface.

Considering that wood concrete does not require either insulation or reinforcing mesh, in the end it will be more economical material, but the consumption of rough plaster on the wall will be twice as much as, say, on ordinary concrete. This happens because the solution also gets into the cavities between the chips, and not just onto the surface itself. True, due to this there will be better adhesion to the block.

Plastering walls made of wood concrete can be done using only one rules or using auxiliary elements - lighthouses. If you use the rule without resorting to beacons, you can save a lot of time and labor costs. There is no special procedure: spread the mixture in a small layer and level it special tools- the rule.

Rule for plaster

When installing beacons, several points must be observed:

  1. At a distance of 300–400 mm from the corners, marks are made on the wall and lines are drawn perpendicular to the floor;
  2. Other lines are also drawn between them, with equal spaces between them. The optimal lengths are 1.5 meters (in any case, slightly less than the length of the rule);
  3. Pieces of plaster or a specialized mixture for attaching beacons are placed on the drawn lines;
  4. The beacons themselves—pieces of metal profile—are attached to pieces of plaster;
  5. Between the beacons, apply plaster in a layer of no more than 50 mm (in the case of a good wood concrete block that does not need to be leveled, this is 20 mm);
  6. The rule is to level the mixture on the wall: add the missing amount or remove the excess.

Beacons for plaster

After the mixture has completely dried, the beacons are dismantled (which is why they are not permanently fixed), and plastering work is repeated in the place of the torn out beacons. They can be left if the plaster is just a rough finish for installing a curtain wall.

The use of beacons (a kind of “rulers” made of a metal profile on the wall) is a measure for those cases where the surface does not have ideal geometry: this usually applies to old houses. Then they serve as an additional (besides the level) reference point. The problem is this: after the plaster has completely dried, the beacons will need to be removed and the remaining “grooves” will need to be plastered.

If you are finishing a newly built wood concrete house, there is no need for beacons - you have good block ideal geometry, and deviations in the surface do not exceed 3 mm. The rule can handle this indicator quite well.

What are the advantages of plastering walls made of wood concrete?

When applying external plaster, you can significantly improve, since such a coating performs the following functions:

  • Heat-protective. The house remains warm without the “steam room” effect. Thanks to good vapor permeability, external plaster allows the wood concrete to “breathe”;
  • Soundproof. If the plaster is not painted, it will reliably protect you from unwanted noise;
  • Waterproofing. Plastered wood concrete repels water, so rooms with high humidity(but not more than 70%) do not require additional finishing. To enhance the water-repellent properties when applying plaster, it is recommended to use a shotcrete machine;

Also, external plaster for wood concrete is required if the walls of the building are exposed to aggressive acid fumes.

In addition, the plastered facade of the building needs to be updated no more than once every 8-9 years. To do this, it is enough to “walk” the walls with a primer, spending a minimum of money on it.

Arbolite is a unique material, one might say. It combines high strength and low thermal conductivity, which makes it possible to raise houses to two or three floors, taking into account the thermal characteristics of the building elements. But it has one rather serious disadvantage - high water absorption, equal to 75-85%. That is, water that gets on the wood concrete is immediately absorbed, reducing the characteristics of the building material. Therefore, plastering wood concrete from the outside is a mandatory process.

Someone solves the problem of protecting the walls of a house made of wood concrete using other technologies, for example, installing windproof facades, and makes a big mistake. Because this wall block material absorbs not only water, but also moisture. And this will lead to the appearance of mold and fungi, cracking and other unpleasant moments. No one prohibits the use of wind protection in the form of panels, siding and other materials for finishing. But it is necessary to plaster the wood concrete.

Types of plaster

What manufacturers offer today in the category of plasters for external walls. In principle, the list is not very large, so it will be easy to select the required composition.

  1. Plaster dry mixtures based on cement.
  2. Lime based.
  3. Decorative compositions.
  4. Silicone.


Cement

Until recently, cement plasters were made by hand by mixing sifted sand and cement in a 3:1 ratio with the addition of lime milk. Today, mixtures are sold dry in paper bags with precise proportions of ingredients that simply need to be diluted with water. The concentration is indicated on the packaging. Mixing is done by pouring the composition into a container of water, and not vice versa. The mixing process itself is carried out with a construction mixer.

Plastering a house made of wood concrete with cement compositions is a hardening of surfaces that will withstand heavy loads, especially impact loads. The only negative is the reduced vapor permeability. This is not to say that it is very low, but lower than that of other formulations. That is, the walls are made of wood concrete, plastered cement mortar, do not “breathe” well.

Limestone

This type of plaster is made from clean river sand and lime. The ratio can vary from 1:2 to 1:5 depending on the fat content of the lime used. Making such solutions yourself is not a problem. First, the lime is slaked, and then sand is added to it.

Manufacturers of dry plaster mixtures They offer several varieties of this material:

  • with the addition of gypsum to lime;
  • cement;
  • clay.

The first option is not recommended for outdoor use. But the last two are ideal in this regard. As for the last mixture, in its pure form clay and lime do not mix. Either cement or sand is still added to such a composition in small quantities.

Decorative

There is a wide variety of mixtures that differ from each other in the polymer component.

  1. Silicate, the components of which are liquid glass. This is an elastic material with high vapor permeability.
  2. Acrylic. Added to the composition acrylic resins. Elastic solution with low vapor permeability.
  3. Epoxy based on epoxy resins.
  4. Polyurethane.
  5. Polyvinyl acetate.
  6. Acrylic styrene.


All indicated plasters can withstand high temperatures– up to +90° and do not change their characteristics under the influence sun rays.

Silicone

This type of facade plaster is distinguished in separate group, because this is the most expensive material of all the above, but with excellent performance characteristics. The service life of silicone plaster is at least 25 years. It is easy to apply and is sold ready-made.

Now to the question of which plaster is better for wood concrete. Basically, for this wall material it makes no difference what it will be plastered with. After all, the main task of the plaster layer is to protect the wood concrete from moisture. And all the materials described above can easily cope with this. In this case, the choice must be made based on the optimal price-to-price ratio. quality characteristics. Plus, you need to look at which wood concrete structure needs to be plastered. For example, if it is a garage or other outbuilding, then there is no point in using an expensive solution. By the way, today many people use wood concrete plaster with clay. This is the most cheap option. Not the most presentable, but it has its place.

Wood concrete plastering technology

So, the question of how to plaster wood concrete on the outside has been resolved, the composition has been selected, and we can proceed to construction and repair operations. Like all processes in construction, plastering wood concrete walls is divided into two parts: preparation and the main process.

Preparation

There is no need to carry out any complex actions at this stage. There is no need to prime the plane of the walls, because this is unnecessary for wood concrete. Blocks made from it have a porous structure due to wood chips used in concrete as a filler. Therefore any plaster mortar lie on them without preliminary preparation. By the way, there is no need to attach reinforcing mesh to the wall for the same reason. The only thing that needs to be done is to dust the wall with a broom.


Now two points:

  1. If plaster is the final finishing layer (followed by a finishing coating), so to speak, leveling, then a frame of metal profiles is assembled under it.
  2. If the façade of the house is covered with a windproof structure, then there is no need to worry about the evenness of the plaster layer. special requirements. In this case, plastering the walls will simply perform protective functions.

In the second case, applying the plaster will look like this: using a trowel, the solution is applied to the surface of the wall and leveled with a trowel. The layer should be small - up to 5 cm.

IN preparatory work the first case includes the installation of metal profiles. This is done like this:

  1. At the edges of the wall, two vertical profiles are installed, which are aligned exactly vertically and in the same plane with each other. They can be attached to the wall with plaster in the form of several piles.
  2. Then a strong thread is stretched horizontally between the profiles in several rows (4-6).
  3. After that, intermediate vertical profiles are installed every 100-150 cm with fastening to plaster. The installation requirement is to align the profiles exactly along the tensioned threads.


Applying plaster

Now we are plastering the house. The prepared solution is thrown with a trowel between the laid profiles and leveled long rule, pulling the material from bottom to top with moving the tool across the laid beacons. In this case, the profiles laid on the wall serve as supports for the rule.

This technology allows you to interrupt plastering. The main thing is to fill the gap between the two beacons with the mixture. If it is not possible to level all the walls in one day, the process can be postponed to the next. Nobody demands precise evenness and smoothness from the applied plaster. The task is to level big differences walls and fill the porous structure of wood concrete surfaces. By the way, this is why plastered wood concrete is a material that requires a large amount of plaster.

In this form, with the profiles inside, the walls are left for several days so that the plaster layer dries well. Then the profiles are dismantled, and their installation sites are filled with plaster or repair (cement-sand) mortar.


Note that the arbolite plaster inside is produced using exactly the same technology.

Advantages of plastering wood concrete walls

If we talk about the advantages of this method of protecting walls built from wood concrete, then three criteria should be noted.

  1. Waterproofing wall material. Any solution described above has these qualities. And the thicker the applied layer, the higher waterproofing characteristics. They are believed to increase depending on the application technology used protective composition. For example, shotcrete technology using a special machine.
  2. Thermal insulation - there is no doubt here, because the thicker the external walls, the warmer it is in the house. You can increase this characteristic different ways, for example, use plaster with perlite on wood concrete or with the addition of expanded polystyrene chips.
  3. Sound insulation - everything here is the same as with thermal insulation in terms of application thickness. But if you add crumbs to the PP solution, then this characteristic will increase several times.


Conclusion on the topic

So, several questions were considered that touched on the topics - what is the best way to plaster walls, and how to properly plaster a house made of wood concrete. From the information provided, it becomes clear that this process is no different from those associated with leveling brick, block, concrete or stone surfaces. The only difference is the absence of reinforcing mesh. The remaining requirements for the processes being carried out are the same.

Of course, we must take into account that wood concrete is a specific material. But he's easy to work with. The plaster fits well on it; there is no need to prepare the finishing surfaces. And this reduces the time for construction operations and the funds for purchasing additional materials.

Arbolite is becoming increasingly popular among private developers from year to year. This is a building material based on cement and wood chips, which has increased strength, bearing capacity and excellent thermal characteristics. But this material has one serious drawback - high moisture absorption, therefore exterior decoration houses made of wood concrete is a standard approach to solving this problem.

Moisture absorption of wood concrete

So, the water absorption of wood concrete is 85%. Essentially, this characteristic shows how much water or moisture a material can absorb in relation to its own weight. And 85% is a very high figure. If you conduct an experiment by pouring a bucket of water onto a block of wood concrete, then after a few seconds some of it will appear with reverse side stone This only means that finishing the walls with wood concrete from the outside is the only possible variant prevent irreparable consequences of the negative effects of moisture or water (for example, slanting rain).

But here another question arises: how to decorate the house from wood concrete from the outside, because there are certain requirements for finishing.

Finishing a house made of wood concrete should be carried out only with “breathable” materials, that is, with a high rate of vapor permeability. The reason is that if the walls are covered with a dense layer through which air cannot pass, then the atmosphere inside the house will be like in a thermos.

Therefore most often external finishing(outside) of a house made of wood concrete is carried out the following materials and technology.

Plaster


This old-fashioned method of separating walls is ideally suited for wood concrete. In addition, manufacturers of plaster mixtures offer a huge assortment, where you can choose an option with optimal ratio prices and quality. Today, plasters on the market are presented in several compositions:

  • cement-based;
  • gypsum;
  • limestone;
  • decorative.

Cement plasters have minimal vapor permeability, but are suitable for outbuildings such as a barn, bathhouse and garage. Gypsum solutions It is better not to use wood concrete for external cladding of houses. They are well suited for interior decoration.

Decorative ones themselves are not used for exterior decoration. It is necessary to first prepare walls made of arbolite blocks, for example, apply a rough layer of cement-sand mixture, and only then apply decorative solutions. But they are still rarely used.

And the most best option– lime plaster with maximum vapor permeability.

Plaster application technology


In principle, it is used for wood concrete traditional version applying plaster mixtures using meshes. And although the surface of the blocks is quite porous, which ensures high adhesion, when plastering walls large area It is recommended to install metal mesh with cells of 20x20 mm on them.

The reinforcing mesh is attached to the wood concrete blocks using standard fasteners, most often self-tapping screws for dowels or ordinary nails. Fortunately, the wood concrete itself is easy to process, so drilling a hole in it, screwing in a self-tapping screw or driving a nail is not a problem.

If there is a need to achieve maximum evenness of the walls with plaster, then use metal beacons, which are attached to the walls with self-tapping screws. Beacons are installed in increments of a maximum of 1.5 m.

Brick cladding

Facing wood concrete with brick is another frequently used option. This technology has enough a large number of advantages:

Cladding technology

Before you line arbolite walls with bricks, you need to understand that under the brick itself you need to pour a base of durable building material. Therefore, even at the stage of constructing the foundation of the house, it is necessary to take into account its width, where the addition in the form of brick cladding is taken into account. For example, if a special brick with a thickness of 60 mm is used for cladding (this is half of standard size), then to its parameter it is necessary to add 5-10 mm of the thickness of the bonding solution layer. Just for the general given value(65-70 mm) and it will be necessary to fill the width of the foundation structure. That is, this parameter is in addition to the standard width.


The very finishing of the façade of a house made of wood concrete with bricks is no different from standard technology. But it needs to be added.

Between arbolite blocks and brick finishing, it is imperative to leave a gap of 2-3 cm. This is a ventilated layer through which moist air vapors escaping from the rooms of the house will not be removed through the brick, which will affect its service life.

Cladding process:

  1. Waterproofing of the surface of the part of the foundation on which they will be laid is carried out. facing bricks. The simplest option is to cover the surface with bitumen mastic.
  2. Brick laying is done using standard masonry mortar, which is sold as a dry mixture in paper bags. The method of diluting the solution is described on the packaging.
  3. The bricks are laid in rows with an offset of half a brick. Each stone is checked with a level vertically and horizontally. Masonry is made according to installed beacons in the form of stretched cords.

Ventilated facades

Finishing the facades of wood concrete houses using ventilated facades is considered the best option protection. Therefore, when the question is raised, what is the best way to sheathe the outside of a house with wood concrete, then it is better to give preference to this option, where there is sufficient choice facing materials. This category includes:

  • lining;
  • siding: metal, wood, plastic;
  • block house.

This finishing option has many advantages:

  • effective removal of moist air vapors from wood concrete blocks;
  • huge range of material as per plan appearance, and in terms of strength characteristics;
  • effective protection from precipitation, sunlight and wind;
  • such finishing allows the walls to “breathe”;
  • simplicity installation process, incomparable with plastering works and brick cladding, where experience and tool skills are required.

Ventilated façade installation technology


The most difficult thing is to assemble the frame for the cladding. It should be displayed in one vertical plane to ensure evenness of the plane new wall. Used as frame elements metal profiles, which are used for installing drywall. But often today, manufacturers offer a delivery package that takes into account not only finishing elements, but also sheathing.

  1. First, two vertical profiles are installed at the corners of the wall. They are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. The main task of the work manufacturer is to align them vertically, for which a plumb line or level is used, and in the same plane with each other. In the second position it is done like this. Two lines of strong thread are stretched between the corners at the top and bottom. The level checks which corner of the building is located externally; it is more convex than the second. The first profile is installed on it. Then, at this level, using threads and a level, the profile is set on the second corner. To do this, so that it protrudes beyond the corner of the building, you can use linings or direct hangers.
  2. Both profiles are firmly attached to the walls with self-tapping screws in increments of 40-50 cm.
  3. Between the installed elements of the sheathing, 3-6 threads are stretched, which form a vertical plane.
  4. Intermediate sheathing elements are mounted between the corner profiles along tensioned threads.
  5. All that remains is to install the lining, siding or block house.

Installation of facing elements, which are connected to each other with a tongue-and-groove lock, is carried out with the tongue facing upward. This creates the opportunity to cover the joints of two finishing elements with the walls of the groove. That is, moisture or water will not collect between the panels.

And one more point that you need to pay attention to when installing a ventilated facade. This is especially true for siding and block houses. Necessary finishing panels install so that the fasteners are not screwed into the frame completely. They require a certain gap so that the panels can mix freely during temperature changes that create thermal expansion of the material without creating fracture conditions.

Other cladding options

In addition to the above-mentioned options for wood concrete blocks with cladding, you can add others. For example, the use of clinker tiles, the laying technology of which is almost the same as brick cladding. You can use porcelain stoneware or ceramic tiles. If your finances are in order, you can use stone (natural or artificial).

That is, wood concrete options with facade cladding great amount. Each owner decides for himself which one to use, depending on preferences and financial capabilities. But, as practice shows, most often the choice is made in favor of the first three technologies, as the most accessible and uncomplicated.

Almost every individual developer who is familiar with the basic stages of the work can create a high-quality finishing layer from a hardened building composition with his own hands.

If finishing plastering of walls is carried out on uneven surfaces, then special beacons must be installed, however, if there are planes without significant differences profiles may not be installed.

Materials and tools

  • Plaster mixture acts as a basis. Cement products are used for the interior, and gypsum is used inside.
  • Metal guide profiles will serve as a guide when applying coating to the side planes.
  • Hammer with special attachment to prepare the solution will allow for high-quality stirring.
  • Dowels and screws will be needed to fix the beacons. The first of them are needed for attaching elements to a concrete surface.
  • Building level a length of at least two meters will allow alignment of the guide plates.
  • Cutting tool like a grinder or metal scissors is needed for cutting profiles.
  • Hammer required for driving dowels into concrete wall. It is advisable to use a lightweight tool.
  • Aluminum rule 2-2.5 meters long is necessary to level the applied layer.
  • Putty knife 15 centimeters wide will be the main tool for pouring the finished mixture.
  • Wooden grater allows for high-quality rubbing to make the surface smoother.
  • Primer used to improve adhesion between the side planes and the applied layer.
  • A container such as a bucket, basin or trough needed for mixing the solution and delivering it to the work site.
  • Roller or brush required for applying primer. You will also need a small container.
  • The measurement is made using a regular tape measure, the length of which should not be less than 3 meters.

Addition!
When is it carried out? simple plaster walls indoors or with outside, then it is mandatory to use gloves to protect your hands from sticking of the solution.

Basic Process Stages

This instruction is intended to review the main stages of the work, so that it is easier for novice craftsmen to navigate when applying the mixture. According to this scheme, both internal and external plastering of walls is carried out. In this case, the material of the side planes special significance does not, however, there are some subtleties when working with individual species.

Surface priming

The adhesion of the solution to the base can be improved if the vertical edges are treated with a special compound. On smooth surfaces Concrete contact is usually applied. When is plastering done? arbolite walls, as a rule, a primer with deep penetration, after all this material has a porous structure.

Installation of guide profiles

To determine the location, preliminary marking is carried out, after which the elements are attached to the surface.

The main advantage of using guide plates is the possibility of quick installation, with no special skills required.

  1. At first side surface is examined for vertical deviation, for which a two-meter level is applied to it. If there are depressions and bumps, they are marked with a marker.
  2. Next, markings are carried out to determine the location of the metal beacons. Distance between vertical elements depends on the length of the rule used.
  3. Self-tapping screws are fixed along the edges using dowels. If the walls are to be plastered from timber, then the fasteners are screwed directly into the side plane.
  4. Before metal profiles are installed, all screws must be aligned. To do this, the cord is usually pulled diagonally. With this option, it is possible to correctly set the beacons.
  5. After installing the landmarks in the form of self-tapping screws, the profiles are fastened. Small piles of the mixture are made between the fasteners. By pressing through the rule, the beacons are deepened until they stop.

Note!
When plastering walls in Khrushchev, the evenness of the guide profiles is given Special attention, since most often such structures have curved surfaces.

Self-application of the mixture

At this stage, the side surfaces are coated with a special composition, the price of which is usually not very high, unless it is necessary to improve the characteristics of the finishing layer.

To avoid deformation wooden rule, it is advisable to cover it with waterproof paint, then the main tool will serve for a long time.

  1. Immediately after installing the beacons, you can begin applying the solution to side faces premises. To do this, fill the bucket one third with water, and add the dry mixture inside and mix thoroughly with a mixer.
  2. Cape method ready-made composition applied to a vertical surface. A spatula is used as a basic tool. The layer of finishing mortar must be sufficiently dense and protrude beyond the profiles.
  3. Using the mixture, the mixture is evenly distributed between the vertical beacons. The movement is carried out from the bottom up along a zigzag path, and the solution is thrown from above.

Attention!
If you are plastering walls made of shell rock, it is recommended to wet it before applying the mixture, otherwise finishing material It will quickly give up moisture and crack.

Grouting the surface

The final leveling of the finishing layer is carried out after it has hardened. During the work, a wooden grater is used, which is applied to the side plane and moves in a circle, producing high-quality grinding.

  • Any irregularities and bubbles that appear must be repaired without fail, because this is due to the fact that the main composition does not completely reach the side surface.
  • When plastering walls made of wood concrete is carried out, with outside It is recommended to use a vapor-tight mixture with good moisture-resistant characteristics.
  • If differences on one plane exceed 5 cm, then the solution must be applied in two layers. The first of them is thrown on immediately without preliminary leveling, and the second is laid after a couple of days.

Application conditions

The basic requirements for plastering walls are reflected in SNiP III-21-73, and the quality of work is divided into three levels.

  1. For normal finishing, some deviations not exceeding 3 mm per square meter. At the same time, such irregularities should be no more than 15 mm per full height premises.
  2. Improved plaster is subject to more stringent requirements. Vertically, you can leave a slope of less than 2 mm per square meter, but not more than 5 mm relative to the entire height of the room.
  3. The most stringent requirements apply to high-quality side cladding. Deviations should not exceed 1 mm per square meter. As for the height of the room, a skew of no more than 5 mm is allowed.

additional information

The following guide covers the main steps wet finishing premises and facades, as well as requirements for the quality of work performed. To create a high-quality finishing layer yourself, it is enough to study the sequence of basic operations. In addition, there is a video in this article for an object lesson.