Installing fittings on the toilet with your own hands. How to install a floor-mounted toilet

When it is necessary to replace an old one or install a new toilet, some people immediately rush to seek the help of a specialist. You should not make hasty decisions, because doing this work yourself is not at all difficult. It is enough to study the instructions of the purchased product in detail, understand the nuances of installation and perform it yourself. Modern connecting elements allow you to quickly and efficiently connect the toilet to the sewer system. By spending a little time, you will save significant money, because the cost of an experienced plumber’s work is almost equal to the cost of the purchased toilet.

Classification of toilets

Many people believe that the toilet is a modern invention, but it is not. Already at the end of the 16th century it was invented for the Queen of England, but due to the lack centralized water supply and sewerage systems are not widely used.

Modern toilets are available in different modifications and differ in the shape of the bowl, installation method and type of drainage system. To do right choice such a device, you first need to familiarize yourself with the existing offer and decide on the toilet parameters that you need.

By mounting method

There is a classification of toilets according to the method of fastening:

• floor They are the most budget-friendly and best suited for spacious toilet rooms. Installation of such a product is carried out on anchor bolts, which allows, if necessary, to dismantle it without damaging the floor covering;

  Floor-standing models are mounted on anchor bolts and, if necessary, can be easily dismantled

• wall-mounted This is one of the varieties floor option, designed for installation in small bathrooms. In terms of the design of the flushing system, such toilets are practically in no way inferior to wall-hung ones. Exist corner models wall-mounted devices, which are great for installation in small toilet rooms;

  A wall-mounted toilet differs from a floor-mounted one only in that it is installed close to the wall

• hanging. Also designed for installation in small areas. Although outwardly such models seem very elegant and fragile, they are designed to weigh up to 400 kg, therefore they are very durable and reliable. Installation suspended structure makes it easier to clean the bathroom and also frees up some free space. This toilet is mounted using a frame or block method.

  A wall-hung toilet saves space

By release design

Depending on the type of drainage of water into the sewer system, there are toilets:

• with vertical outlet. This solution is rare here, but, for example, in America it is very popular. This is due to the fact that in this country communications are often not attached to the wall, but are carried out under the floor, so the toilet can be installed anywhere;

  A toilet with a vertical outlet can be installed in any necessary place; to do this, just connect the sewer pipes there

• with horizontal outlet. The toilet flush and sewer hole are located on the same line. Most modern models have this design;

  A toilet with a horizontal outlet is designed for cases where the sewer hole is located in the wall

• with oblique release. The angle of inclination of the toilet outlet is 40–45°. Such models were popular in the 80s of the last century; they were installed in apartment buildings.

  Toilets with an oblique outlet are installed when the communications fit along the bottom of the wall

By type of tank mounting

If we talk about the type of tank mounting, then toilet bowls can be of the following types:

• with a separate tank. In this case, the tank is mounted under the ceiling, and it is connected to the bowl using a pipeline. This allows for a high flushing speed, but the appearance of this design is not very attractive;

  The tank is located at some distance from the toilet bowl and is connected to it by a pipeline

• with a joint cistern, which is attached directly to the toilet bowl. The design can be detachable, bolted or monolithic;
  

  In most toilet models, the tank is installed directly on the bowl

• with hidden tank. This solution allows you to realize a variety of design ideas. The hidden tank is attached using the frame method;

  Only the bowl remains visible, and the tank is hidden inside the toilet

• without tank. Typically, such models are installed in public toilets, but can also be used at home. In this case, the pressure into the bowl is supplied directly from the water supply, and the water flow is controlled using an electronic or mechanical valve.

  In a toilet without a tank, water is supplied to the bowl directly from the main line.

By flush type

There are differences between toilets in the direction of water flow when flushing:

Most modern toilets have two flush modes - full and economical, which allows you to almost halve water consumption.

On modern market There is a wide selection of both domestic and foreign toilets. Our models are cheaper because the price does not include transportation costs and customs duties. The main parameters to consider when choosing include:

1. The quality of the bowl coating. In order for the toilet to be comfortable to use, it must have good flush. And for this, the bowl must be covered with high-quality glaze - if it is porous, then dirt will constantly accumulate and you will have to use a brush more often.
2. Tank filling speed. The toilet must have modern shut-off valves, then if several people live in the house, there will be no need to wait long for the flush to be restored to functionality after other people use the toilet.
3. Availability of economy mode. Since now almost all apartments are equipped with water meters, in order to reduce its consumption, it is necessary to purchase models with a double button. In this case, it is possible to perform a complete or economical drain.

   Economical flush mode uses half as much water

4. Bowl shape. It can be different: round, oval, squared, so if possible, it is better to sit on the toilet and practically evaluate its comfort.
5. Material type. Typically, porcelain or earthenware is used to make toilets. Porcelain products are of higher quality, but their price is higher. Externally, it is almost impossible to distinguish porcelain from earthenware, so you must definitely study the product documentation. Now you can purchase metal and glass models, toilets made of reinforced plastic, natural or artificial stone.

   Toilets are made not only from traditional porcelain and earthenware, but also from natural stone eg marble

6. Cover quality. It should be rigid, made of duroplast and have an antibacterial coating. You should not buy a foam cover, as it will be a breeding ground for germs. It is convenient when the lid is equipped with a microlift. It ensures its smooth closing, which occurs without noise or impact.

   It is best to purchase toilets with a duroplast lid with a built-in microlift

7. Additional functions. Now many manufacturers equip their products with various options, but keep in mind that this increases the cost of the device. Before purchasing such a model, consider whether you need lighting, music from the toilet, or a heated seat.

When choosing a toilet, you need to optimally combine your desires and financial capabilities. You can either sacrifice some points and choose a more budget model, or buy a device with additional capabilities.

Video: choosing a toilet

Preparing for installation

If you decide to install the toilet yourself, then before doing so you need to do some preparatory work. First you need to determine which model will be optimal in your case and only then purchase it.

Typically, the installation of a toilet is carried out during renovations in the bathroom. If there is a need to replace it in another case, then you must first remove items from the room that will interfere with the work, turn off the water supply and prepare all the necessary tools.

Required tools and materials

In order to install a toilet, you may need the following tools and materials:

If you are replacing a toilet, you must first dismantle the old device. The work process will be as follows:

1. Removing the tank. First you need to disconnect the water hose and then drain the water from it. Then open the lid, unscrew the fasteners and remove the tank.
2. Dismantling the toilet. Unscrew the attachment of the toilet to the floor and disconnect it from the sewer pipe. If this is not immediately possible, you need to shake the bowl a little. For ease of work, you can first cut off the toilet (if it will no longer be used), and then begin dismantling the fasteners.
   

   First remove the tank, and then dismantle the bowl

3. Cleaning the sewer hole. It is necessary to clean the entrance to the sewer hole, and then cover it with a rag so that foreign objects do not get there and toxic fumes do not penetrate into the apartment.

   The sewer pipe opening is cleaned of dirt and sediments

Preparing the surface for installation

The choice of method for preparing the floor surface will depend on how it was installed. old toilet. Previously, to install a toilet, a board (taffeta) was embedded in the floor, after which the bowl was attached to it with screws. If the taffeta is in good condition, then you can leave it. If you decide to remove the board, then the resulting space must be filled with mortar and covered with tiles.

The surface for installing the toilet needs to be cleaned and leveled

If the toilet was installed on a tile, it is enough to simply unscrew it, since flooring it is not damaged. After this, you can mark the locations for installing the new toilet.

Toilet assembly

To ensure the integrity of the plumbing equipment and save space during transportation to the store, it arrives in a disassembled state. Do not be afraid of this, since each product comes with detailed assembly instructions, following which it will not be difficult to cope with this task.

How to connect a toilet to a cistern

The main attention should be paid to the correct installation of the float, since it is it that regulates the filling of the tank with water. The toilet assembly process itself consists of the following steps:

1. Installation of the drain mechanism. Shut-off valves usually come already assembled, so all you have to do is install them in the tank. Pay special attention to the contacting surfaces and make sure there are no burrs. First install sealing gum, Then drain device and secure it with a nut.

   The drainage mechanism assembly is installed on a rubber seal, which protects the water drainage area from leakage.

2. Connection of the tank with the shelf. The assembled tank is applied to the shelf on the toilet bowl and connected using the bolts and nuts included in the kit. Don't forget to install rubber washers to ensure a tight connection.

   The rubber washer ensures a tight connection between the tank and bowl

During installation of shut-off valves into the tank, all nuts are tightened by hand, without applying much force.

Place the toilet in the place where it will stand and level it using plastic or rubber gaskets. Then mark the attachment points, make holes in the floor and fix the toilet using dowels.

Connection to sewerage

After installing the toilet, you need to connect it to the sewerage system. There are some features when connecting models with vertical, horizontal or oblique drainage.

Installing a toilet with a vertical outlet

A toilet with a vertical outlet is connected to the sewer system simultaneously with its installation:

Installation of a toilet with a horizontal pipe

In this case, the outlet is directed backwards and a special cuff is used to connect it to the sewer pipe. Its shape depends on the location of the riser exit. If it is made horizontally, a straight adapter pipe of the appropriate diameter is used. If the drain pipe comes out at an angle, make a corresponding structure from rotary elbows or from a corrugated hose.

To connect a toilet with a horizontal outlet to the sewer system, a transition structure made of rotary elbows or flexible corrugation is used

Installing a toilet with an oblique outlet

Very often, the oblique toilet outlet is located above or below the sewer pipe. There are two ways to install such models:

Switching from cast iron pipes to plastic products

In houses of old construction, there are still cast iron sewer pipes, and if they are in good condition, then they do not necessarily need to be changed, since they can be connected to new plastic products.

There are several installation methods:

1. Using a rubber gasket. This option is good to use if the cast iron socket has a smooth edge. The cuff is lubricated with sealant and inserted into the socket, after which a plastic pipe or adapter is inserted into it. A plastic pipe is inserted 3–8 cm into a cast iron pipe - if everything is done correctly, then such a connection will reliably serve for 6–8 years.

   The sealing of plastic and cast iron pipes can be done using a rubber cuff

2. Using linen winding. If there is no sealant, you can use linen winding. This is a time-tested method: a plastic pipe is wrapped with linen winding, after which it is inserted into a cast iron socket, and the winding is carefully tucked in using a narrow spatula. Then the seam is coated with a solution of PVA glue and dries overnight.

   The gap between the plastic and cast iron pipe is sealed with tow and filled with mortar.

3. Combined method. To obtain the most airtight connection, when the gap between the pipes being connected is large, a combined installation method is used. At the same time, caulking is done using a winding and a rubber gasket is installed, after which the joint is coated with silicone sealant.
4. Using a press fitting. This is a special element that, on one side, has a thread for a cast iron pipe, and on the other, a socket for a plastic element. In this case, the edge of the old pipeline is cut off, after which it is lubricated with grease and a thread is cut. Then they wrap tow or FUM tape, lubricate them with sealant and screw on the press fitting. A plastic pipe is inserted into the socket.

   Using a press fitting, you can reliably connect a plastic pipe to a cast iron pipe

When connecting a cast iron and plastic sewer system, it is important to follow the specified rules for performing the work; this is the only way to obtain a high-quality and airtight connection.

Connection using corrugation

One of the most common ways to connect a toilet to a sewer is to use plastic corrugation. First you need to decide required size this product. It is best to buy corrugation reinforced with wire or mesh - it is more durable and will last longer.

Toilet connection procedure:

You can make the connection using plastic elbows, but unlike corrugations they are not flexible. This solution is convenient to use when sewer system was planned for a specific toilet model.

Rigid outlets are stronger and more durable, but if you replace the toilet or need to move it a little, you will have to change adapters or use a corrugation or eccentric.

To connect the toilet to the sewer, you can use a straight adapter or an element with an eccentric

Installation is carried out in the same way as in the case of corrugation, but horizontally located adapters and right angles must be avoided. Gray adapters are cheaper, but they don’t look nice with a white toilet.

Video: installing a toilet

Connection to water supply

There are several ways to connect cistern toilet to water supply:

To connect to the water supply can be used:

The connection procedure will be the same regardless of the liner:

Video: connecting the toilet to the water supply

Connection features of the “monoblock” and “compact” models

The difference between “compact” and “monoblock” toilets lies in the type of connection to the flush cistern. If in the first case the tank is attached directly to the shelf located on the bowl, then in the second case the bowl and tank are made in a single body.

In a monoblock toilet, the bowl and tank are made in a single body

Both types of toilets are mounted on the floor, and the method of connecting them to the sewer system will depend on the type of flush. Installation is carried out in the same way as shown above. The only difference is that for a “compact” you need to independently install and adjust the shut-off valves, while for a “monoblock” it is already assembled and adjusted by the manufacturer.

Wall-hung toilet: installation features

If the toilet area is small and you want to save space, experts recommend installing a wall-hung toilet model. Installation of such a device is carried out on an installation - a special support frame.

The installation technology for a wall-hung toilet includes the following steps:

1. Installation selection. It is usually supplied with a tank, flush button, necessary pipes and adapters. The bowl can also be included or will have to be purchased separately.

   The installation usually includes a tank, adapters and pipes

2. Determining seat height. Installation of the installation is possible only on a solid wall, which can support a weight of about 400 kg, so it cannot be installed on a plasterboard structure. The toilet seat is usually installed at a height of 40–48 cm, it all depends on the height of the users - you need to make sure that everyone is comfortable.
3. Marking. Mark the central axis of the installation and determine its distance from the adjacent wall. It should provide convenient connection of water supply and sewerage, so it is usually at least 14 cm. The tank is placed at a height of 1 meter from the floor.

   The height of the wall-hung toilet above the floor should be 40–48 cm

4. Drilling holes. In the marked places, holes are made into which dowels are inserted.
5. Installation of the installation housing with a plastic tank. It must be set in a vertical and horizontal plane, so be sure to use a building level. Adjustment is made by changing the height of the legs.

   With help adjustable legs the installation is leveled

6. Installing a drain button. It can be mechanical or pneumatic.
7. Communications liner. Plumbing is usually done using rigid pipes, as they are more durable and reliable. The pipes of the tank are fixed with clamps and the sewer outlet is mounted at an angle of 45 o.
8. Installation of the bowl. It is attached to the studs using a shock-absorbing gasket. Connect the bowl and pipes of the tank. Check the operation of the toilet.

   

   The installation structure is most often finished with moisture-resistant plasterboard

Video: installation of a wall-hung toilet

System health check

Regardless of what type of toilet you installed, before you start using it, you need to check the functionality of the system. This is not difficult to do: you need to turn on the water and wait until the tank is filled. After this, the water is drained and all connections between the toilet and the water supply and sewer system are inspected.

If there are no leaks, then everything is fine. If leaks are found in some connections, it is necessary to check and correct the seals and perform a control drain of water again. It is also necessary to check the reliability of the toilet; it must be firmly secured.

Typical errors and ways to eliminate them

When installing a toilet on their own, home craftsmen may allow typical mistakes, which you can also eliminate with your own hands:

If you do not fasten the toilet tightly, this can soon lead to a violation of the tightness of the connections, as well as to its damage.

Video: editing errors

Almost any DIYer can install a toilet on his own. To do this, you need to choose the right type of toilet and install it accordingly. If you strictly follow the instructions and recommendations of specialists, then a toilet installed by yourself will perform the necessary functions for a long time and reliably.

In cases where there is a desire to save on the services of specialists or simply learn a new construction skill, information on how to properly install a toilet will be useful.

What you need for installation

Before installing a toilet with your own hands, you need to make sure you have a number of tools:

• hammer drill or impact drill;
• a drill with a diameter of 8-10 mm (depending on the diameter of the toilet dowel);
• tile drill (if installation is carried out on a tile or ceramic slab);
• adjustable wrench;
• set of wrenches;
• hammer;
• sealant (either in a special tube or together with a sealant gun);
• screwdrivers (flat or Phillips, depending on the design of the toilet);
• adapter sleeve made of rubber 123×100 (if you need to connect to a cast iron socket);
• a set of fasteners for installing a toilet (if it is not included in the kit);
• rags and a container to drain the remaining water from the old toilet.

Before installing the toilet, you need to do some preparatory work. For example, you need to decide what exactly to connect new toilet with a sewer socket. The following options are possible:

• Pleated cuff. This method is the most economical, but in this case the toilet cannot be attached close to the socket. This matters if the bathroom is small.
• Straight cuff. Firmly and hermetically connects the bowl of the structure with the socket of the sewer system.
• Eccentric cuff. Convenient if the connection centers of the system and the socket are shifted.

Next, it is advisable to replace the old flexible water line. The choice of liner is based on the distance from the connections on the cold water pipe to the connection of the toilet filler mechanism. 15-20 cm should be added to this length.

If necessary, you need to purchase adapters in advance for threads at the connection points made of flax or FUM tape.

In the case where it is preserved under the old toilet wooden stand, it must be removed. A nail puller or hammer drill will help with this. You can fill the resulting void with a cement composition, preferably quick hardening, and a spatula.

Removing an old toilet

• First you need to turn off the water. Disconnect the flexible hose and flush the toilet.
• Then you need to unfasten the drain tank. You can do it carefully, or you can use a hammer (in case the old toilet is no longer needed).
• You can quickly remove the toilet using a hammer and a hammer drill.

Carefully, so that fragments do not fall into the sewer system, use tools at the place where the toilet is attached to the floor and where the device meets the sewer. Then you need to remove the old bowl by pouring out the remaining water.

Removing the wood plank and leveling the floor

• After the old toilet is removed, you need to thoroughly clean the sewer pipe from dirt and rust. Install a rubber adapter sleeve 123×100 into the socket, having previously covered it with sanitary sealant.
• Then plug the hole with a rag so that odors do not interfere with further work.
• Next you need to delete wooden board and fill the resulting void with repair composition.
• Level with the floor using a spatula.

Marking and installation of dowels

• Place the bowl of the new toilet in the planned location. Make markings through the holes in the bowl on the floor so you can see where to drill. The holes in the toilet bowl are located at an angle, in which case you also need to drill at an angle.
• Once the markings have been made, the toilet can be removed. Next, you need to drill holes in the previously marked locations and insert dowels.

Securing the toilet cistern

• In accordance with the instructions supplied with the toilet, you need to install the cistern fittings. There are some peculiarities in this procedure.
• The drain and fill valve nuts must be tightened by hand, while at the same time holding the valve itself, thereby protecting it from turning and possibly damaging the gasket.
• The valves must be installed so that during operation the moving elements do not touch each other or the walls of the tank.
• If you are unsure about the quality of the tank walls and gaskets, sanitary sealant should be used.

The drain mechanism is available in a collapsible type to facilitate the installation process.

Installing a toilet bowl

• The connecting cuff is attached with the petal part to the transition cuff 123x100, inserted into the socket pre-treated with sealant. The outlet of the toilet bowl is inserted into the transition collar until it stops.
• You should turn the cuff so that the toilet bowl is in a level position and all the mounting holes are aligned.
• The bowl is secured to the floor surface with screws and plastic washers. In cases where the floor surface is uneven, you need to use shims made from pieces of plastic to level the toilet before finally tightening it.

Connection between bowl and drain tank

Before installing the drain tank on the bowl of the structure, you need to put a gasket between them. For reliability and to avoid displacement of the gasket, it is better to glue it to the bowl with sealant in advance.

After securing the tank to the bowl, tighten the screws evenly. After this, install the tank lid and the drain button. Then secure the flexible liner.

Checking the functioning of the system

At the end of all work, you need to carry out a check - fill the tank with water and do a test drain. The amount of water drained can be adjusted; how to do this is written in the instructions.

Inspect all elements for any leaks. If they occur, check the tension strength and, if necessary, disassemble the assembly, re-treat it with sealant, then tighten it properly.

If the reason is a faulty part, purchase a new part and replace it.

Install the toilet seat and fill the gaps between the toilet and the floor surface with sealant.

Execute similar work doing it yourself is not particularly difficult if you adhere to the above recommendations and rules. Good luck!

How to install a toilet with your own hands - step-by-step instructions with Video

What is needed to install a toilet. Step-by-step instructions for dismantling the old and installing a new toilet with your own hands

How to properly install a toilet with your own hands

From our article you will learn how to install a toilet with your own hands. This is a fairly simple operation, provided that you are able to turn off the cold water supply, and the supply and sewer pipes do not need major repairs. In this case, we will install a toilet with a bottom-mounted tank. This option is simpler, since most of the weight of the tank in this case falls on the toilet. When installing a toilet with an overhead tank, reliable fasteners will be required to support the weight of the latter (for brick walls This is not a problem, but in the case of walls made of hollow materials you will have to resort to special tricks).

1. If during the renovation of the bathroom the floor height has changed slightly, it is necessary to compensate for the difference using an eccentric cuff - the so-called toilet corrugation (for sewerage) and a flexible hose (for supplying cold water). Large changes in height will require the skills of a professional plumber.

2. If the floor in the bathroom is not level enough, it is better to install the toilet with silicone sealant. You can also use small wooden / plastic wedges, but even here you can’t do without sealant, since it allows you to evenly distribute the weight of the toilet.

3. If the sewer pipes go down through the floor and not through the walls, you will need a rectangular elbow or a flexible corrugated cuff. This is not the only difference, but the main one.

Assembly and installation of the toilet cistern

2. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for assembling the tank interior. The sequence of actions depends on the type of drain system used in the model you choose.

3. Make sure all parts are securely fastened, but do not use excessive force when tightening bolts and screws.

4. In most cases, bolts for attaching it to the toilet are sold complete with the tank. Be sure to install the washers and rubber cones before inserting the bolts into their holes.

Installation of a toilet with an installed tank

6. Insert the bellows (corrugated extension) into sewer pipe, making sure it fits snugly. In our example, a simple straight connecting cuff is required. (When connecting the toilet to a cast iron pipe, you will need an adapter sleeve with a diameter of 110 mm. See photo. It must be generously lubricated with silicone sealant and inserted into a cast iron pipe that has been previously cleaned of dirt, see photo. Only after this can a corrugated plastic sleeve be inserted into it.

7. Move the toilet towards the sewer pipe. Make sure that its outlet is flush with the installed pipe. Most likely, this is the case. But if not and the offset is quite large, then you will need to use an eccentric bellows.

8. Carefully place the toilet in its intended place, placing the cuff over the outlet.

9. Make sure the tank is level using a spirit level along the back wall. Through the back wall of the tank, mark the places on the wall where holes will be made to fix it.

10. Do the same with the toilet itself: check its levelness using a spirit level and mark the locations of the mounting holes on the floor, trying to be as precise as possible.

11. Mark the edges of the toilet base on the floor with a pencil. Knowing the exact position of the “leg” will come in handy when you complete the preparatory work and begin the final installation of the toilet.

12. Move the toilet away from the wall. Drill holes for attaching the tank, focusing on the marks on the wall. Select (taking into account the wall material) and insert dowels.

13. Drill holes in the floor at the points you marked. When drilling ceramic tiles you will need a hammer drill and a concrete drill. At the beginning of drilling, the pressure on the hammer drill should not be too great; after passing through the tile layer, the pressure can be increased. Insert the dowels into the holes. If the floor is wooden, as in our case, they are not needed.

14. Before installing the toilet in place, apply silicone sealant to the floor along the line marked with a pencil, corresponding to the border of the base of the “leg”.

15. Place the toilet in its place. Screw the tank to the wall by inserting washers between the heads of the screws and the wall of the tank. Don't over tighten the screws.

16. Screw the toilet base to the floor. In this case, the same rules apply: firstly, do not forget about the plastic washers, and secondly, do not tighten the screws too tightly.

Connecting water and completing installation

17. Connect the tank to the cold water pipe. You will most likely need a flexible connecting hose for this. The location of the connection depends on the position of the inlet pipe on the new tank.

18. Turn on the water by opening the shut-off valve and make sure there are no leaks at all connections. Also check the tightness of the connection between the toilet and the sewer and coat all connections with silicone sealant.

19. Install the toilet seat as intended by its design. If necessary, adjust the seat to exactly fit the shape of the toilet.

20. Apply silicone caulk around the base of the toilet. Smooth out any unevenness with a damp sponge, achieving a neat look.

How to install a toilet with your own hands - step-by-step instructions Photo

Follow our step by step instructions and you will learn how to install a toilet with your own hands and what is needed for this

DIY toilet installation

If this is your first time thinking about installing a toilet, this article is for you. Moreover, it’s better if you have time to read it before you go to the store for a new “faience friend” or before you start finishing in the toilet room.

The fact is that modern toilets so different that they have very different types of fastening, flushing, sewerage, etc. So, ideally, you should start planning which toilet you will install with your own hands already at the toilet design stage.

DIY toilet installation

What to do if there is an old “throne” in the toilet - how to remove it without global flood? We will also talk about this in the article. Features of the installation process, step by step guide and a few tips from the experts will help you save money and install the toilet yourself without any problems.

Planning the space in the toilet room

It is impossible to plan a comfortable toilet without taking into account the features of the toilet that will be installed there.

To understand what exactly needs to be done, you need to know:

• Is it necessary to dismantle a toilet that has served its purpose and carry out major repairs in the toilet (including cladding, repair and installation of sewer lines and floor screed);
• what are the dimensions new plumbing– will it not clutter up the space and will it allow your door to open quietly;
• what type of mounting does your future toilet have?
• what is the method of flushing the toilet;
• at what height do you want to install the plumbing?

If you know the answers to all these questions, all that remains is to dismantle the old one (if necessary) and install a new toilet.

Let us remind you that floor plumbing is divided into several types. It differs in shape and structure.

The flush cistern can be combined with the toilet bowl or independent (wall-mounted).

Toilet bowls are attached to the floor: at 2 and 4 attachment points, at corners.

Down with the old toilet!

Surely your toilet that needs to be dismantled is not wall-mounted, which means it is attached to the floor. You can remove it from the toilet in just 7 steps.

1. Turn off the water and drain it from the tank in the toilet.

Before breaking the toilet, you must turn off the water supply and unscrew the tank

Removing an old toilet

If the neck is disconnected from the pipe, and the toilet is tightly glued to the floor with mortar, then you need to take a chisel and carefully break off the pedestal from the mortar, you can do it in parts

If there are no plans for the old toilet, and you are seeing it off on its last journey, then after rocking it, you can split it with a sledgehammer so that it is not difficult to take it out. You will have to do the same if the fastenings of old plumbing fixtures are cemented.

After dismantling the toilet, assess the condition of the pipes in the room. Cast iron creates many problems; before installing new plumbing, it is recommended to change them to plastic. Also, plastic pipes greatly facilitate the process of installing a toilet and routing sewer drains (by the way, about installation plastic pipes with your own hands you can also read on our website).

Self-installation of plumbing “step by step”

Toilet for normal operation You need a flat, tiled or specially prepared surface of the walls and floor.

1. First, use a corrugation to connect the toilet flush to the outlet sewer riser pipe. You can also use a rigid pipe. The best option– if the toilet flush enters the riser without extension corrugations, etc. To seal the drain, we use a ring with a rubber border. It is important to take into account that rubber does not tolerate cement and similar coatings on its surface. But the sealant is quite suitable.

Toilet installation - cuff

We take the cuff and apply silicone sealant and install it in the pipe

Then we take the corrugated pipe and also apply silicone sealant

Installing the corrugation in the pipe

Then we carefully move the toilet and install its outlet into the seal of the corrugated pipe

To prevent water from getting under the toilet when washing the floors, this place can be sealed with silicone sealant

We fix it to the floor: 3 types of fasteners

1. First option for floor installation- These are anchors embedded in the screed. While pouring the floor, long anchors are secured at the place where the toilet and its mountings will be located. After the screed has dried and the floor has been finished, the toilet is attached to the anchors. This is the most difficult method of fastening, since it is difficult to install the anchors so evenly that the toilet sits on them without problems. It often happens that inexperienced builders choose anchors that are too short, and then they cannot screw the nuts onto them. The anchor embedded in the floor must be at least 7 cm higher finishing surface to screw the toilet to it. Spacers are required under all nuts to prevent the surface of the toilet from cracking.
2. The second option for securely fixing the toilet to a surface during a toilet overhaul is installation on a wooden base. The main thing is that the board strictly matches the size of the toilet base. When pouring the floor, the board is prepared by driving nails into it. Then it is placed in the solution with the nails down. After the screed has dried and the room has been finished, the toilet, previously placed on a layer of epoxy resin, is screwed to the board using ordinary screws. They also need rubber or polymer gaskets under them.

You can fix a toilet with a wall cistern without screws, just using resin. However, with this method of fastening, you must first clean the surface of the tile so that the glue sticks better. When using epoxy, it is important to allow the newly installed plumbing fixtures to dry thoroughly and adhere to the floor surface.

Mounting the toilet to the wall

How to install the installation

Wall-hung toilets are being used more and more often. Their installation is not much more complicated than usual (by the way, you can read about installing a toilet bowl with your own hands on our website). A wall-mounted toilet, as its name implies, will not have contact with the floor surface. It is suspended using a metal frame that is attached to the load-bearing wall. In this case, the toilet tank and pipes are located behind a false plasterboard wall. If the wall-hung plumbing fixture has an open tank, then you can fix it on the wall itself, but then the sewer pipe must be inside the wall. The structure will be held in place by the same anchors embedded in the wall or supporting frame.

Installing a toilet on a pedestal

After fixing the toilet bowl to the wall or floor, all that remains is to assemble the toilet. A tank is placed on the base, already securely fastened, or a pipe from a tank hung on the wall is connected to it.

Installing a toilet on a pedestal

All that remains is to check if the toilet works and if there are any leaks. Turn on the cold water, wait until the tank is filled, adjusting the filling level. Set up according to instructions locking mechanism. We wash it off and see if there is any leakage from the drain.

The last step is to screw the toilet seat. But here you can probably handle it yourself.

1. Before purchasing plumbing fixtures, first decide on the type of drain that suits you. If you do not plan to change the sewer riser supply, you need to choose the same type as in the used toilet. Remember: no adapters will help to properly connect a toilet with an unsuitable type of outlet.
2. Do not leave the choice and purchase of a toilet until the final stage of the renovation: it is better to prepare a place in the toilet in advance to facilitate the installation of plumbing.
3. Invest in nickel-plated bolts and anchors to secure the toilet to the floor or wall. They do not rust, which means that unsightly drips and sticking of bolts are excluded.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation was successful

Installing a toilet with your own hands - step-by-step instructions!

Find out how to install a toilet yourself. Step-by-step instructions, lessons, photos + videos and the best tips from professionals!

How to install a toilet yourself

Having “straight” hands, you can do most of the housework yourself. This category of work also includes installing a toilet. Knowing the sequence of actions, installation or replacement can be done with your own hands.

Installing a toilet with your own hands is a task of medium complexity

Types of toilets

In this article, we will consider not the features of flushing or the shape of the bowl, but those design features that determine the list of installation work.

By installation method

The toilet itself consists of a plumbing bowl and a flush cistern. The bowl may be floor mounting or hanging. If the bowl is suspended, then the tank is hidden - built into the wall. In the case of a floor-standing bowl, there are three options for mounting the tank: on a special shelf on the bowl (compact), separate, connected using a flexible hose, in an installation (hidden in the wall of the frame).

Typical sizes of toilets of different designs

The advantage of a floor-standing toilet with a conventional flush cistern is ease of installation. It can be installed without starting repairs. The disadvantage is that compared to a suspended one, it takes up more space and looks heavier. Accordingly, installation of wall-hung models is complicated - it is necessary to secure the supporting structure - the installation - in the wall. Perhaps this is only during renovation.

Release to sewer

The choice of toilet for discharge into the sewer depends on the location of the sewer pipe. They happen:

• with horizontal outlet;
• oblique release;
• vertical.

Types of toilet outlets

If the pipe is in the floor, a vertical outlet will be optimal. If the outlet is in the floor, but is close to the wall, it is most convenient to have an oblique toilet. The horizontal version is universal. Using a corrugated pipe, it can be connected to both the wall and the floor.

Installation of a toilet with a compact cistern (floor-standing version)

The store usually delivers the toilet bowl, tank, flush device and float separately. Before installing the toilet, everything except the float must be assembled.

What does a floor-standing toilet with a compact cistern consist of?

The process begins with the installation of a drainage device. It comes assembled, you only need to install it in the hole in the bottom of the tank. A rubber gasket is placed between the drainage device and the tank.

Install drain mechanism inside the tank, having previously placed a rubber gasket

On the reverse side, the plastic washer included in the kit is screwed onto the pipe. It is tightened by hand, then using a key, but very carefully, since it is easy to break the plastic. To prevent the drain device from spinning, it must be held with your hand.

Carefully tighten the nut

The next step is to install the mounting screws on the tank. They are also included as standard. These are long thin screws made of galvanized or stainless steel. They are inserted into two small holes at the bottom of the tank, put on rubber gaskets, then washers, and only then screw on the nuts.

Install the mounting screws on the tank

Before installing the tank on the toilet bowl, a gasket (included) is placed under the tank. To prevent odors from leaking out of the sewer, it must be “seated” with sealant. First we coat it on one side, place it on the toilet, coat it on the other, and place the tank.

Coat the gasket with silicone and place it on the toilet

Coat on the other side

We install the tank on the shelf of the bowl, passing the screws into the corresponding holes. We put washers and nuts on the screws from below and tighten them. At the same time, make sure that the tank is level.

Installing the tank on the bowl

Next, we install a float - a device for controlling the water level in the tank. There are two holes at the top of the tank. Here we insert the device into one of them. It is mounted on the side from which the water supply will be connected.

We put a float in the tank

We wrap a little flax around the outlet pipe, coat it with plumbing paste, and install an angle (brass or stainless steel). Do not overtighten the connection, do not hammer it in; the pipe is made of plastic.

Floor mounting

The toilet is almost assembled, it can be put back in place. The toilet is connected to the sewer using a corrugated adapter. It has rubber seals at the ends that fit tightly into the pipes and onto the toilet outlet.

Corrugation for connecting the toilet to the sewer

If the sewer pipe is plastic, the corrugation is simply inserted until it stops. If the riser is cast iron, and not yet new, so that the smell does not seep through the microcracks, the pipe is cleaned to the metal, washed and dried. A layer of sealant is applied around the circumference of the dry, clean metal (a little more in the lower part), then the corrugation is inserted. To be more sure, you can also apply sealant to the outside of the joint.

To ensure that the installation of a toilet on old cast iron is airtight, a layer of sealant can be laid under the corrugation

In any case, we insert a corrugation into the sewer pipe.

Insert the corrugation until it stops

The second end of the corrugation is put on the toilet outlet. This is the connection of the toilet to the sewer. It's so simple. There is just one caveat. So that it can be removed later, the corrugation outlet and the toilet bowl outlet are lubricated with soap soaked in water, and only then the bell is put on. If this is not done, removing the toilet without damaging the corrugation will be problematic. But you still have to drill holes for fasteners. It will be much more convenient to remove rather than try to move a partially fixed device.

Having put the corrugation on the outlet, we position the toilet the way it will stand. Having installed the lid on the tank, we check that there is room for it. Next, you need to sit down, check the comfort of use, and adjust the position if necessary. Then take a pencil or marker, insert it into the holes in the sole, and mark the places for installing the fasteners.

Mark places for fasteners

After removing the toilet, drill holes for dowels in the marked places. If the kit comes with plastic fasteners, do not use them - they will break in a few days. It is necessary to immediately install powerful dowels.

If the toilet is installed on tiles, to prevent them from cracking, it is better to cover the glazed surface. Take a self-tapping screw, mark it, and hit it with a hammer several times. This is called “kerning”. Then take a drill or hammer drill and drill the tiles, turning off the impact mode. Once the tiles have been passed through, you can turn on the perforation mode.

Drilling holes for fasteners

We put plastic plugs from dowels into the holes. They must be in the same plane with the floor. If there is a thicker edge, cut it off with a sharp knife.

We sweep the floor, removing dust in the area where the toilet is installed. We put it in place, insert dowels into the holes, and tighten them using the appropriate key. The bolts must be tightened alternately, first on one side, then on the other. Tighten until the toilet is secure and free of play.

The final touch is connecting to the water supply. Connect the outlet of the water pipe with the tap installed on it with the corner on the tank that was connected earlier. For this you need flexible hose. There are union nuts (American) at its ends, so there will be no problems with fastening. We tighten well, but without fanaticism.

How to install a wall-hung toilet with installation

To install wall-hung toilets, the outlet of the sewer pipe must be located near the wall. The specific distance from the wall is indicated by the manufacturer, but should be small - about 13-15 cm from the far edge. If the exit is from the floor, there is a solution - a special lining, with the help of which the drain is moved closer to the wall.

Installation of a wall-hung toilet begins with attaching stops to the wall installation frame. They are attached in two at the top and bottom. With their help, the distance to the wall is adjusted, the frame is raised and launched.

Install the top stops

The upper stops have the form of rods and are adjusted using a socket wrench and a screwdriver. The lower stops are more like plates, they are also adjustable socket wrench but with a lateral position of the head.

Bottom stops and height adjustment

The assembled frame is placed against the wall, its center is positioned above the middle of the sewer outlet. The mark on the frame rises or falls to the height required by the manufacturer (there is a mark on the frame, also indicated in the passport, usually 1 meter).

Adjust in height and away from the wall

With help bubble level The horizontal and vertical installation of the installation for a wall-hung toilet is checked.

By adjusting the height of the stops, an equal distance from the wall, specified by the manufacturer, is set. How to conveniently do this, look at the photo.

The specified distance to the wall is set

The exposed frame must be fixed to the wall. Mark them in appropriate places with a pencil or marker and drill holes. Plastic dowel bodies are installed in them. Most of the wall-hung toilets are imported, and they recommend sealing the dowel bodies with sealant. Some of the sealant is squeezed into the drilled hole and a dowel is inserted. Then, before installing the fastener itself, the sealant is applied to the plastic housing.

Connecting elements - pipes, couplings - can be installed in a fixed installation. They all come included and simply snap into place.

Installation of pipes and couplings

Installation of pipes from the tank and sewerage

Next, metal rods are installed on which the toilet bowl will be supported. They are screwed into the corresponding sockets, silicone seals are put on top (on bottom photo these are two rods above the sewer outlet).

Toilet holders are installed, the sewer pipe is fixed

The sewer pipe extends to the required distance and is fixed in the specified position using a bracket. It covers the pipe from above and is inserted into the groove until it clicks.

Next, water is connected to the tank. Open the tank lid (it has latches), remove the plug on the side surface. Right or left - depends on where your water supply is. A corrugated pipe is inserted into the opened hole, a mating part is inserted from the inside, everything is connected using a union nut. It is necessary to tighten without using excessive force - it is plastic.

Connecting the installation to the water supply

A tee is installed inside the tank, and a pipe (usually plastic) is connected to the desired outlet. This is done with the help of an adapter and an American one.

Connecting a water pipe

The hose from the tank is connected to the special inlet of the tee. It is flexible, in a metal braid. Tightened with a union nut.

Connect the hose from the tank

Replace the cover. In principle, the installation for the toilet is installed. Now we need to close it. To do this, make a false wall from moisture-resistant plasterboard. It is recommended to use two sheets, but one is also possible. Drywall is attached to the installation frame and to the mounted profiles.

Attaching the false wall to the installation frame is mandatory

The toilet is placed on pins, its outlet goes into a plastic socket. The connection is sealed, no additional measures are required. This completes the installation of the toilet.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation: floor-standing, wall-hung with installation, instructions with photos, videos

Installing a toilet yourself will save you a significant amount of money. With your own hands, you can install both a floor-standing model and a wall-mounted one, with installation.

Sooner or later the need arises to change the plumbing. Recently, many owners prefer to carry out installation work themselves. Later in the article we will figure out how to properly install a toilet.

general information

Before installing a toilet with your own hands, you need to select it. The main criterion in this matter will be the size of the room. So, for a typical bathroom suitable model toilet "compact" imported or domestic production. Experts recommend purchasing a product similar to the one installed previously or with the same type of fastening system. It must be said that the installation of different types of toilets is different. As a rule, the differences consist in the need to connect special equipment and additional functions. Modern models are equipped with enough detailed instructions in different languages, including Russian.

Important points

Before purchasing a new toilet, you should carefully inspect the old product. You need to pay attention to:

• Release angle. Available today various models. The angle can be oblique, straight or vertical. You should measure the height of the outlet to the floor. If the outlet does not match in the model of the selected product, you can additionally purchase a drain adapter corrugation.
• Water connection. Traditionally, the lower or side eyeliner. A flexible hose is installed. When choosing a new plumbing fixture, you should consider the length of the liner. Before installing the toilet, you should purchase a new hose.
• Mounting method. The old toilet can be fixed to the floor using two bolts. In this case, you need to purchase another set of fasteners. In some bathrooms, the device is cemented into the surface. In this case, you will need to break the floor screed until the wooden insert appears.

Before installing a toilet with your own hands, you should also check the method of shutting off the water supply to the tank - from a common riser or locally. In the first case, you will have to contact local plumbers. It is also necessary to assess the condition of sewerage and water pipes throughout the apartment. You may need to replace some elements before installing the toilet. Before starting work, you should prepare the following tools:

• Drill and drill bit diameter 10.
• Hammer.
• To assemble the tank - 2 wrenches.
• Silicone sealant.

Preparation for dismantling

Before installing the toilet with your own hands, you should remove the old product. Dismantling is carried out in several stages:

Dismantling

The first step is to remove the fastening to the floor. The bolts (if the old toilet is screwed on) are unscrewed. If the toilet is filled with cement, then the screed is broken if possible. If this is difficult to do, you will have to hit the plumbing object in the places where it is fixed. After the toilet is removed, it needs to be tilted back. This is necessary in order to drain the remaining water from the cavities. Next you need to disconnect the bell. The corrugation is simply removed. If a cast iron or plastic socket is installed, then it must be disassembled to the first connection or cut down to size. This is done after the toilet is removed.

Next, a corrugation should be inserted into the sewer socket. On the joint side, the element must be lubricated with sealant. The bell should be cleaned from the inside and also lubricated. The corrugation is inserted all the way. After this, it is better to plug the entrance with an old rag or close it with a special plug to prevent the spread of sewer smell.

Old fastenings

If the floor is flat (screeded or tiled), before installing the toilet on a tile or cement base, the previous fixing elements should be removed. If the new product has similar fasteners, then the parts are installed in the old places. The old plastic dowels are drilled out. New ones are inserted in their place. The holes may be wider than the dowels. In this case, the product will not be secured securely. To prevent this, new holes should be prepared. The toilet assembly is placed at the fixation point. Next, you should mark the fastening areas, taking into account the dimensions of the product, the length of the corrugation and the liner. The dowels must be carefully driven into the prepared holes. Items should fit easily. From proper preparation holes will determine the further stability of the toilet.

Screed

If the plumbing product was filled with mortar, then before installing the toilet, you need to make a new base. After removing the old product, the wooden lining will be visible in the recesses. The floor is leveled with a thick cement mortar, the toilet is placed on top and screwed. After the screed has dried, the bolts are finally tightened. There is one point to consider here. The wooden lining may rot over time. If the installation of the strip is not intended, then pour the screed and allow it to dry for 2-3 days.

We install the toilet ourselves

A new product is placed at the prepared fastening point. The fasteners are tightened alternately - one and the other should be tightened evenly. The product is assembled together with the drain tank. Usually, modern models made in the form of a “compact” design. In this case, the toilet and cistern are already connected to each other. When installing products equipped with an automatic water supply and drainage system, there are usually no difficulties. However, attention should be paid to the assembly and adjustment of the float valve. This element is responsible for the volume and pressure of incoming water. The next step is the fixation of flexible liner. One end is screwed to the water supply. Then you should open the tap a little and drain a little water. This is necessary to flush the pipe from the inside. Next, the water is closed, the second end of the hose is connected to the toilet. Here it is necessary to check the reliability of the rubber pads located under the nuts. Here's how to install a toilet correctly.

System check

After installation is completed, you need to check the work. Water opens in the system. While it is being poured into the tank, you should carefully inspect all connections and check for leaks. Next you need to drain the water several times. This is how you check for leaks in sewer connections. After a few hours, you should carefully inspect everything again. Here's how to install a toilet yourself.

Custom design

Often there is so little space in bathrooms that many owners decide to install wall hung toilet. It should be noted that the installation of this product is somewhat more complicated than that described above. How to install a wall-hung toilet? More on this later.

General information

The product itself and the tank are mounted on the wall. For this, a supporting frame is used - a frame. It is usually mounted in a wall (in a niche) and closed decorative panel. The depth of the niche will depend on the width of the tank. In this case, technical gaps of 1-1.5 cm should also be taken into account. The sewer pipe, which also closes in a niche, must have a horizontal socket. If it is not possible to make a recess in the wall, then the frame is installed close to the surface. The top can be covered with plasterboard and covered with tiles, like walls. The design of the wall-hung toilet allows you to disguise all communications. Outside there will only be the product itself and the flush button.

Frame installation

The height of the assembled frame, as a rule, is 1.3-1.4 m. The lower part of the frame should be equipped with adjusting screws. Brackets are installed on top. With their help, the vertical position of the frame is adjusted. The drain button is located at a height of about a meter from the floor. The toilet seat should be at a level of about 40-42 cm. Partially, the exact dimensions will depend on the preferences of the apartment’s inhabitants, partly on the product model itself and the position of the sewer pipe. As a rule, there is free space under the structure. This is quite convenient when cleaning the room. Support frame installed strictly in a vertical position. Use a level for leveling. The future location of the frame can be determined using plumb lines. After this, holes are drilled in the wall and floor. Dowels are inserted into them. After this, the frame is installed and the horizontal position is adjusted using screws. Vertical alignment is carried out using brackets. After giving the frame the required position, it is fixed with locknuts.

The final stage of frame installation

How to install the tank? In this case, the element is not attached to the toilet. Installation is carried out on the frame. After installation, the tank should be connected using a flexible hose to the water supply pipe. Then you need to adjust the elbow adapter to length. It connects the outlet pipe socket and the toilet outlet. After this, pins are mounted to secure the bowl of the plumbing fixture itself. Corners are installed along the perimeter of the frame. The sheathing will be fixed to them. All the necessary holes are cut out on its front surface - for pins, pipes and a release button.

Completing the toilet installation

The product is attached to the selected location after the frame covering and other materials are completed. Finishing work. In the area where the toilet is installed, the wall must be perfectly flat. A special paste must be applied to this place. As a leveling mixture, you can use white for seams, Portland cement or white cement. The paste should have the consistency of a thick paste. A gasket is put on the pipes and pins (it comes included), then the toilet is hung and pressed tightly against the wall. At the same time, the nuts should be tightened. The protruding paste must be carefully removed. In conclusion, I need to say a few words about how to install a toilet seat. Actually, there is nothing complicated here. The seat is usually secured with two bolts. These fixing elements can be found included with the product.

If you have started a major renovation of your bathroom, or the plumbing has broken down, then you may need to replace the toilet. This process has a number of features that must be taken into account, and the approach to choosing a new toilet must also be correct.

Of course, you can call a plumber from the housing office, or contact private craftsmen who will provide professional installation. But installing a toilet yourself will not only save you money, but will also allow you to understand the whole process, which means choosing the most suitable installation option.

In this article, we'll walk you through everything you need to renovate your toilet to help you do the job yourself.

The first thing you need to decide is which toilet to choose.

Replacing a complete toilet is part of a comprehensive package, so it includes:

• selection of a new toilet, taking into account the mounting and drainage methods;
• dismantling the old toilet;
• renovation of the toilet room, including replacement of pipes, screeds, cladding and other things;
• installation and connection of a new toilet.

You should buy a new toilet in advance, and at the same time you need to consider some features that will help you make the right choice.

Floor-standing toilets are divided into several types according to their design. Their differences are based on the shape of the main nodes.

1. The shape of the outlet drain can be horizontal, vertical or oblique, at an angle of 45 degrees.
2. The toilet bowl can be visor-shaped, plate-shaped or funnel-shaped.
3. The models also differ in the type of cistern: it can be combined with the base of the toilet or installed on the wall, and at different heights.
4. The fixings of the toilet to the floor vary. This may be an option with two or four fastening points, or a design in which the toilet is installed on special corners attached to the floor.

Tip: choose a toilet based on the type of drain. If you are not going to change the sewer pipe, then take a model with the same type of drain as the old toilet. No adapters will provide a high-quality connection to a toilet with a vertical and direct outlet.

The method of connecting the tank will determine the types of further facing work in toilet room. For example, if you choose to mount it to a wall, you will need a prepared place and anchors for installation.

1. First of all, the water supply inside the drain tank is shut off, the water is drained from it and the underwater hose is unscrewed. After this, the fastenings of the tank are unscrewed. If they are rusty or covered with lime deposits, you need to hold the bolt head with a screwdriver and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. Use kerosene or aerosol lubricant - these products significantly soften rust and lime deposits.
2. After the tank is removed, unscrew the fastenings that hold the toilet - dowels or nuts screwed onto the anchors.
3. Now you need to disconnect the drain from the sewer pipe. If your house is still an old building, then most likely the drain will be fixed. In this case, you will need a hammer and chisel. Position the chisel across the caulk and carefully prick the cement in two places. Rock the toilet with force so that the drain rotates and becomes loose. Tilt the toilet without disconnecting it to drain the remaining water.
4. After dismantling the toilet is completed, close the hole in the sewer pipe with a wooden plug or fabric stopper.

Dismantling the toilet does not require special care, because you are unlikely to reuse the product. Therefore, if the cement coating is too strong, you can beat off part of the toilet bowl with a sledgehammer to make the work easier, and then make a transverse hole in the pipe and insert a metal rod there as a lever to make it easier to loosen the drain.

Please note: if you have cast iron drain pipes in your apartment, it is better to immediately replace them with plastic ones. Exploitation PVC pipes much simpler, both for the initial wiring and when connecting all drain points.

DIY toilet installation process

After you have dismantled the old toilet or completed all the finishing work, prepare the surface, level it and begin installing the toilet installation.

1. Attach a rigid pipe or corrugated pipe to the toilet flush to connect to the sewer outlet pipe. The optimal option would be one in which the toilet flush goes directly into the pipe outlet. Use a rubber seal with a border. Do not seal the transition of the drain into the sewer inlet with cement.
2. Prepare water input. A flexible hose that is screwed onto the inlet of the tank and the water supply tap is well suited for this. Please pay Special attention to the diameter of the hose fasteners at both ends.
3. After the connection is made, you can fix the toilet to the wall or floor. Below we will look at this process in more detail.
4. Assemble the toilet. Place the tank on the pre-fixed base. If your tank is suspended, secure it to the wall and run a pipe. Now you can check whether the tank settings are correct and the toilet is operational. Turn on cold water and wait for the tank to fill. While the water is filling, you can adjust its level. You can learn more about this from the instructions for the tank.
5. The last stage is attaching the toilet seat. There are holes on the top of the toilet bowl for mounting it, and the necessary parts are supplied in the kit.

Now we will look in more detail at the methods of attaching the toilet, as well as the features of each of them.

How to install a toilet correctly, taking into account every little detail

There are usually three options for attaching the toilet to the floor:

• installation using anchors embedded in the screed or dowels;
• fixing the toilet with screws to a wooden base previously mounted in the screed;
• installation on epoxy resin.

If you decide to change the toilet due to overhaul, then suitable option will be anchored or prepared wooden base. In this case, the anchors for attaching the toilet are placed on the floor when forming the screed. They should be installed so that they protrude 5-6 cm above the surface. The excess can then be cut off.

Select taffeta (wooden board) to match the size of the toilet base. Drive nails in a checkerboard pattern over its entire surface so that they protrude from the other side. Now turn the taffeta over and install it where the toilet will be located. Fill the screed with concrete along the top edge of the board, install the toilet and secure it carefully with screws.

For mounting the toilet on a tiled surface there are also certain rules. Be sure to wear rubber gaskets under the nuts and on the dowels: they will prevent the toilet from cracking when tightened and will prevent rusty streaks on the ceramics. Use nickel-plated anchors and bolts; they can be easily unscrewed even after their service life has expired.

Advice: when installing the toilet on, to prevent damage to it appearance, use epoxy resin or dowels.

Under the dowels you will need to make holes through the screed and tile into which the screws will be screwed. The holes should not be too deep so as not to touch the waterproofing layer. If the screed is too thin, pour some sealant into the hole before installing the dowel. Be sure to put a rubber gasket on the screw. It would be best to place the toilet on a sealant pad and then press it down with screws.

What other options are there for installing a toilet?

When installing a toilet, you can completely do without such parts as anchors, dowels and screws. Epoxy resin will come to your aid. The main thing is to prepare the base of the toilet and the floor surface according to all the rules. This option is optimal if the tank is mounted on a wall, since it represents half the weight of the complete structure.

1. First, take a walk sandpaper or an abrasive stone on the floor surface so that later the epoxy resin will set and stick well.
2. Apply adhesive to the floor and base of the toilet in an even layer of a few millimeters. Install the structure, level it and wait for the resin to dry completely.

Recently, wall-hung toilets have become popular. They are installed on the wall, without any contact with the floor. For installation, you will need to make a metal frame and attach it to the load-bearing wall, and attach the toilet directly to it if you plan to hide the pipes and tank behind a plasterboard wall.

You can also mount a wall-hung toilet with a cistern open type straight to the wall, but in this case you will need to move the sewer pipe into the thickness of the wall. The structure is secured by using anchors built into the frame or wall.

Video about installing toilets yourself

Having familiarized yourself with the process of installing a toilet yourself, you can easily determine how much money you were able to save without involving a plumber or a private craftsman. We are always happy to help you in any endeavor. In the comments you can leave your questions, comments and examples from your own experience. Comfort to your home!

Most compatriots, in particular skilled craftsmen, often independently take on the task of repairing a house and its various systems. However, due to certain circumstances, they approach the installation of new plumbing with extreme caution and even disbelief in their own abilities. And although often for installing a toilet, for example, you have to pay mercenaries an amount equivalent to the cost of the toilet itself, this fact still does not stop them. But in vain, because installing a toilet with your own hands is a very simple task!

Preparing for installation

Of course, it wouldn’t hurt for you to become familiar with a number of specific nuances associated with the installation procedure, but they are so accessible that you can figure them out without any problems. In fact, it turns out that installation, direct installation and connection to common system sewerage systems of all types of bathrooms are practically no different from each other. The only difference can be identified in the connection of some additional functions, coupled with the installation of an automated system.

Different systems consist of similar elements

Of course, any toilet comes with step-by-step instructions for assembling it. There should not be any difficulties during the installation of the drain and fill system. However, close attention must be paid, since its job is to regulate the pressure and volume of water filling the tank.

Check the complete set of the drain tank

Application deserves special attention. This solution is very convenient to use. We will talk about installation in detail in a separate review.

Toilet installation step by step

Let's look at the main pitfalls in the procedure for installing a brand new toilet. We will talk specifically about new residents, that is, our instructions do not imply dismantling the old bathroom. Therefore, be careful.

So, to install the newly purchased toilet yourself, you need to do the following:

This is all! Self-installation of the bathroom has come to an end. However, you should not immediately use it for its intended purpose: you must allow the silicone to harden. He does this for 6 hours. By the way, don’t skimp on the sealant! There is never too much of it in installation work. But be sure to make sure that the silicone does not end up inside the pipe.

Note: To install a bathroom and its cistern yourself, you do not need professional tools. It is enough to stock up on a set of wrenches and adjustable types.

Bathroom with vertical outlet

This model is especially popular in European countries. Such a toilet is a device in which the siphon located in the bowl and the outlet pipe are directed downwards when installed. This universal design allows you to install the bathroom at any angle to the wall.

For installation you only need to perform a few steps:

• Make floor markings and install a regular screw flange with a locking device;
• Install the sewer pipe in the center of the flange;
• Mount the toilet on the flange and securely fix the outlet pipe.

Bathroom with horizontal outlet

Or in another way with direct release “into the wall”. Most common in Russia. The outlet of such a toilet is invariably directed backwards. The outlet pipe in this design is connected to the sewer pipe using a specific cuff.

In the installation procedure, pay attention to the attachment of the bathroom to the floor. Legs similar type Toilet bowls, as a rule, are equipped with specific holes designed for fixing plumbing fixtures specifically to the floor surface.

Advice: You should begin connecting a bathroom with direct outlet during its installation. Dowels and standard screws are used as fasteners. Fasten the structure with great care, since excessively strong and sharp screw “pulling” is quite capable of damaging the integrity of the bathroom.

Toilet with oblique outlet

Let's look at the main installation points:

Specifics of connection without corrugation

We have already discussed connecting the bathroom to the general sewerage system using corrugated pipes in step-by-step instructions. Is it possible to connect a toilet without using corrugation, and won’t this process be more complicated? Such a connection is, of course, possible, but it is unlikely to raise any questions for you.

If you are finally convinced that the corrugation is unnecessary, then take a closer look at the following specific nuances in the procedure for such a connection:

Mandatory use fan pipe. Taking into account the angle of the toilet, connecting the adapter is carried out using different methods:

bathroom with oblique outlet– installation is carried out in the floor: in modern apartments you will no longer see such a connection, but once upon a time it was relevant;
bathroom with vertical outlet– installation is carried out strictly at right angles to the wall;
bathroom with horizontal outlet– the installation angle is equivalent to 40º, installation is carried out in the wall.

1. If the outlet of the bathroom does not suit the outlet of the sewage system, it is necessary to either purchase a different model of the product, or still use flexible adapter pipes.

Thus, installing a toilet with your own hands should not cause you serious problems. You can easily implement it, guided by certain rules, following the step-by-step instructions and taking into account the specifics of the plumbing installation. This will cost you much less than calling professionals to your home.

In the next article we will tell.