Installation of a drainage system around the house. Drainage around the house: basic technology, types of drainage systems and their cost

There are several options for how to make drainage around the house. However, upon closer examination, the optimal solution is a closed drainage system, the arrangement of which has many secrets.

Drainage system around the house - why is it needed?

Typical construction fallacy(typical of people without experience, but with money) is the substitution of fundamental concepts. Drainage does not replace foundation waterproofing! A foundation that is perfectly insulated from moisture still needs a drainage system! The reason lies deep in your site - in alternating layers of clay and loam, in seasonal changes groundwater level.

The relative height of the site on the ground is no less important - the lower it is, the more relevant it is to install drainage around the house with your own hands. The amount of precipitation and external permeability of the soil also contribute to the need for drainage. There are many factors, and not all of them can be taken into account before building a house. And they manifest themselves quite tangibly - in the form basement mold, fungi on load-bearing beams and in other unpleasant forms.

Therefore, the drainage system is laid at the excavation stage, when digging a pit for a house. All other drainage schemes for melt and groundwater, precipitation, etc. should be recognized as patching holes in a unraveling shirt, although for the sake of objectivity we will consider them too.

How to make drainage around the house - installation options

There are only three of these, and the first two are carried out with great reservations. They pose a potential danger to the life and health of residents and are more relevant for those houses in which there are no children:

Open option. A ditch is dug around the house, and its depth should exceed the depth of the foundation. The width of the ditch can be narrow, plus it is necessary to make a slope for the natural flow of water. As a result, a slit-like trench appears on your own site, which fatally affects the impressiveness appearance. It can be decorated with external ceilings, but the danger of children and animals falling into such a ditch remains;
Backfill option. The same open ditch, but covered on top with rubble stone, cinder blocks, crushed stone and decorated with turf. No one will fall into it, but technical operation filling system is fundamentally impossible. In the event of an emergency blockage of the drainage, the entire ditch will have to be opened, and the problem area will have to be localized on a whim. That is, you will need to dig through the entire area as if you were looking for treasure;
Closed option. Performed by drainage pipes, safe and effective, allows Maintenance and various arrangement methods. We will consider this in more detail: how to make drainage on a site with your own hands using buried pipes. And let's start with their choice.

How to make drainage on a site - we choose pipes with our own hands

Drainage pipes are produced by our (and not our) industry in the following varieties:

Asbestos-cement, the strongest, most durable... and heaviest. Additional joy comes from the need to make through cuts in them, in a checkerboard pattern and quite long - every 15-20 cm with a size of at least 5 mm. Manufacturers emphasize the service life of such pipes, which reaches 50 years, and asbestos cement itself is not afraid of aggressive environments;
Ceramic - that is, simply clay. This means they are fragile and can be damaged during transportation and storage. However, some varieties ceramic pipes good for the presence of additional surface grooves, they contribute to enhanced moisture collection. Perforation of ceramic pipes is similar to asbestos-cement, that is, it is performed independently, on site. Installation is difficult due to the low strength of the ceramic drainage material;
Porous pipes are made of plastic concrete, expanded clay glass and other modern building materials. They do not require perforation at all due to their porous structure - moisture collects through capillary channels in the walls. Financially expensive, effective drainage is ensured with a significant pipe diameter;
Polymer pipes - made of polypropylene, polyethylene and other plastics. Lightweight, economical, easy to install and effective over a long service life - 90% of drainage work in private homes is carried out by them.

Installing drainage around the house - do it yourself and step by step

Step by step instructions with practical advice How to make drainage around a house consists of the following steps for its arrangement:

Do-it-yourself drainage around the house - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Surveyor

We determine the lowest point of our site - yes, yes, the trench will have to be pulled to it, there will be a drainage well there. Because avoiding mold in your basement is important, but preventing waterlogged soil is also a good idea. Given the flat nature of the site, the presence tall grass and other external complications, the theodolite will help determine the lower point. This tool can be rented or asked from friends - it cannot be classified as a permanent construction necessity.

The ditches around the house must have a slope of at least 1 centimeter per linear meter. Water will flow even with a slope of 3 mm per meter, but dirty moisture will flow through our drainage, with fine sand and loam, and the inner surface of the pipes will be covered with plaque over time. So you will have to lay a slope of at least 10 mm per 1 meter. This will lead to an increase in the volume of excavation work, but will benefit the durability of the drainage system.

Step 2: Digger

Dig, Shura, they are golden... The depth of the ditch around the house itself must exceed the lowest point of the foundation by at least 30 cm. This is also why drainage work is carried out at the foundation pit stage, because... they still dig it out “with a reserve” sufficient for laying pipes. For the excavation stage of the work, a sharp bayonet shovel is required, and a shovel assistant will also be useful for lifting the soil upward.

The top point of the ditch is located on the opposite side of the drainage well in the lower part of the site, the width of the ditch is about 50 cm. Each linear meter must be checked with a bubble level to ensure compliance with the required slope.

Step 3: filling and covering

Crushed stone of 10-15 mm fractions is poured onto the bottom of our trench - that is, quite large. A layer of sand is placed on top and compacted. The total thickness of the sand and gravel layer is approximately 15 cm. The slope profile must be accurately maintained - 1 cm per meter is visually difficult to recognize, especially in a narrow trench. Again we use a level; uniformity of slope is important for long-term gravity flow of water in drainage pipes Oh.

The bottom of the trench, extending onto the walls at least 60-70 cm on each side, is covered with geotextile; this material will not allow moisture to go down to the gravel-sand layer. At the junction of geotextile strips we make a wide overlap. We again pour crushed stone on top, this time of a small thickness - 5-7 mm, repeating the slope line.

Step 4: Finally Drainage

Drainage pipes are laid along the second crushed stone surface. Their joints are insulated with special tape. Inspection wells with covers are laid in at least two opposite corners of the house - their height must immediately correspond to the level of the turf on the garden plot.

The pipe line is pulled to inspection and drainage wells and checked by pouring water from the top point, at least several buckets. As long as the drainage communications are open, any error can be easily corrected. When there is no doubt about the accuracy of the slope and the tightness of the joints, the pipes can be backfilled.

Drainage system around the house with your own hands - design instructions

Are you designing a house and thinking about simultaneously installing a drainage system around it? Or maybe the house has been ready for a long time, but dampness in the basement disrupts the harmony and comfort in your home? In both cases - necessary measure, which should not be forgotten. a bunch of. Let's take a closer look at how to lay communications to remove moisture around the house with your own hands.

How to make a foundation with your own hands

Drainage is a system of pipes laid at an angle in special trenches and equipped with inspection wells. Excess moisture from the soil, accumulating in perforated pipes, flows by gravity into the storage well.

We design a drainage system

The effectiveness of the entire system depends on the accuracy of its design. Therefore, it is worth paying due attention to this stage of preparation.

The design of a drainage system begins with geological studies: determining the type of soil, the maximum groundwater level, the highest and lowest point of the site. The entire site is plotted on the plan, indicating trees, structures, and the building itself to scale. You can use checkered paper or a graphic editor. Drains will be laid around the perimeter of the house (at a distance of no more than 1 meter and at a depth just below the foundation level, optimal slope trenches - 3 cm per 1 linear meter), and should be located at the lowest point of the site. Following this rule, we indicate on the drawing the laying of pipes, places for installing inspection/rotary wells and the discharge point (rotary wells should be located at every turn of the pipes, inspection wells - every 30-40 meters on straight sections of the pipeline).

Selecting drainage pipes and preparing for excavation work

So, the plan has been drawn up, it’s time to start purchasing materials for installing a drainage system around the house.

Pipes for drainage systems are made from: plastic (with a smooth wall or corrugated), “Perfokor” (plastic pipes with mineral additives), asbestos cement, ceramics. Pipes have different diameters and stiffness classes; additional filters can be built-in to prevent clogging of the perforation. Pipes Ø100-110 mm are suitable for drainage, and the lower the level of drainage, the stronger the material should be.

Flexible plastic pipes It is not recommended to use it for drainage due to the difficulty of maintaining an exact slope and possible silt deposits in places of minor bends during operation. You can make your own drains from smooth-walled orange plastic sewer pipes by simply drilling a sufficient number of holes in the walls.

Do not forget to purchase other materials for arranging the drainage system: fittings (tees, adapters, couplings, plugs), material for constructing the walls of inspection wells (for example, plastic rings or plastic pipes), manhole covers for inspection wells, silicone sealant, crushed stone, sand, cement, geotextiles (non-woven material capable of transmitting water and retaining sand and soil particles), shovels, building level and tape measure, nylon cord. You will also need waterproofing composition to cover the foundation.

Excavation and waterproofing works

Excavation work, which can be done manually or with an excavator, begins with digging a trench around the perimeter of the building, which should be located at a distance of half a meter from the foundation and lie 30 cm below it (at the highest point of the site). From this highest point on the site, the trenches should slope towards the catchment point by at least 1 cm/m.

The walls of the trench can be made rectangular or trapezoidal. The second option is more convenient on loose, crumbling soils. The width of the trenches is assumed to be equal to the diameter of the drainage pipes with a margin of 40-50 cm (for pipes with a diameter of 100 cm, the trench width will be about one and a half meters). Check the accuracy of excavation work using beacons or a level stretched along the bottom of the trench.

At each turn of the trench and every 30-50 meters of straight sections it is necessary to dig small pits for inspection wells. During the digging process, do not forget to remove sharp stones, large clods of earth and foreign objects from the soil that could damage the drains.

Laying the filter layer and assembling drains

When the trench around the perimeter has been dug with the proper slope, the pits for the wells are ready, you can proceed to further actions.

If you have enough geotextiles, lay this material to the bottom of the trench (with allowance for the walls). If you saved money and did not purchase geotextiles, then the bottom of the trench should be covered with a ten-centimeter layer of compacted sand. Next, a layer of fine gravel about 10 cm thick should be poured onto the geotextile or sand. You can begin assembling the drains.

If your pipes do not have filters to protect drainage holes from clogging, wrap them in one layer of geotextile and secure it with polymer twine.

Pipes must be laid in the center of the trenches, connecting them into a single closed loop with fittings and couplings (during assembly, it is advisable to use 2 fittings with 45° angles at turns, avoiding installing fittings with right angles to avoid possible blockages). It is advisable to coat all joints with silicone sealant. If the holes on the drainage pipes are located only on one side, then the pipes are laid with these holes down. Do not forget to install rotary and inspection wells, providing them with covers and plugs at the bottom. Install a drain into which all water collected in the drains will be discharged. The height of the wells (including the receiving well) is selected based on the depth of the trench and the need for easy access to the hatch after completion. landscape works near the house.

After installation work, the pipes should be covered with a layer of crushed stone, after which this filtering layer of backfill should be covered with the edges of the geotextile laid on the bottom at the very beginning (the crushed stone is filled just above the lower level of the grillage).

Video - Do-it-yourself drainage system around the house

Ring drainage system around the house

Ring drainage is installed in cases where the house has already been erected and the blind area has been laid. There are no main technological differences between ring and wall, except for the following points:

the trench must be laid along the perimeter of the house at a distance of up to three meters from the foundation, while all the rules of earthworks, including slope and depth, remain unchanged;
after laying drains and installing wells, you should fill in a ten-centimeter layer of crushed stone, wrap it with the free edges of geotextile, and then fill the soil to zero level;
instead of constructing a blind area, backfilled ring drainage trenches are backfilled thin layer gravel (or turf) and decorated as a ring path leading to the spillway point.

How to make linear foundation drainage with your own hands

Linear drainage involves laying drainage trays in the area adjacent to the house, and can also be installed around the perimeter of the building (including near the front door) for collection and drainage surface waters. The system of communicating gutters (trays) can be supplemented with point rainwater inlets for collecting rainwater from the roof and sand traps with connected drainage pipes through which water will be drained into a collector well. The system protects the building foundation and blind area from the harmful effects of excess moisture.

Preparing a linear drainage plan

In a graphics editor or on checkered paper, we draw a plan of the buildings on the site (top view). Next, we mark the line for laying linear drainage around the perimeter, designate places for installing point rainwater inlets, a door grille, and a water discharge point ( drainage well should be located at the lowest point of the site).

We purchase materials

For work you will need: trowels, shovels, cement, sand, roofing felt or roofing felt, sealant, trays with grates, sand traps, plugs, drainage pipes, nylon cord, building level, grinder.

Excavation and installation work

You can only step on drainage trays after the cement has dried. During operation, the trays should be periodically cleaned with a jet, removing the waste collection baskets.

You can learn more about the intricacies of installing a surface drainage system from the video tutorial.

Sand trap prices

sand trap

Video - Surface drainage around the house

Drainage tray installation diagram

Drainage of the house is needed so that puddles do not accumulate on the site after rain, and those living in the house do not have to suffer from dampness. High-quality drainage extends the life of construction, and therefore it is necessary to equip it, despite the fact that the work on its installation is quite labor-intensive.
It is necessary to protect the foundation of a building from moisture as much as possible, since the destructive effects of water on building support structures are well known.
Some homeowners believe that foundation waterproofing can handle moisture and do not take any additional measures to protect their home from water. In fact, this state of affairs is justified only for those buildings that are located on sandy soils. Houses standing on alumina or loam have every reason to be flooded with water during the spring melting of snow, since the groundwater level on these types of soils rises quite high to the surface of the earth. Therefore, it will not be possible to cope with drainage using waterproofing alone. It is necessary to provide more serious protection against water. In this case, it is necessary to arrange drainage around the house.

Drainage: three types of systems

Drainage systems:

Location of drainage layers.

Open. They involve the use of open ditches up to 50 cm wide and about 0.5-0.7 m deep. Advantages: technically simple. But they are rarely used anywhere, since from an aesthetic point of view, the appearance of open ditches is not particularly attractive to the eye and does not decorate the landscape.
Closed. These are engineering communications, which are a prefabricated network of perforated pipes (mainly from polymer materials), laid on a gravel bed. A drainage system of this type is considered the most effective, but also the most labor-intensive.
Backfill. There is some similarity with open type, but the pit is not empty, it is filled with permeable material: coarse crushed stone, broken brick etc. From above, the ditch with all its contents is filled with cut turf. Such drainage has its advantages, they are expressed in its durability, especially if the hole is covered with geotextiles before filling. The drainage system also has its drawback - the impossibility of cleaning it when it silts up.

Drainage system for the home: classic version of the scheme

Trenches are dug along the perimeter of the building for laying drains; a slope of up to 1% must be observed in them. The discharge point (collector well) is located at the bottom of the system.
A drainage pump is included in the system if it is not possible to provide an appropriate slope.
Drains are made from perforated pipes.
Inspection wells are an indispensable component of the scheme. They are installed in the corners of the building.

DIY drainage: tools for construction

hacksaw for metal;
shovel;
hydraulic level;
wheelbarrow for transporting crushed stone and removing soil;
tamper

Drainage device

Wall foundation drainage.

The drainage system can be installed independently, without the help of specialists.

Preparation of trenches involves drainage of groundwater. The sequence of excavation work is characterized next steps construction:

Trenches are cut so that their width accommodates the pipe and there is still a free space of 10 cm on each side. Their depth depends on the depth of the foundation of the house. The pipes are placed 0.5 m lower than the lowest point of the foundation.
It is necessary to regularly measure the slope when preparing trenches.
The bottom of the ditches is carefully compacted, then sand about 10 cm thick is poured in and also compacted.
Cover the trench with geotextile so that its edges overlap the edges of the ditch.
Make another layer of backfill - gravel or expanded clay. The material is poured to a thickness of 20 cm, while the slope is constantly monitored.
The next stage is to lay the pipes in the ditches, and install inspection wells in the corners of the house.
Gravel is again poured on top of the pipes, the height of which should reach 20 cm.
The edges of the geotextile material are aligned over the gravel backfill. Geotextiles will serve as protection for the gravel, preventing soil from getting into it, and will not allow silting. The material is secured with polypropylene tape or twine.
Since stormwater and drainage are built at the same time, storm sewer pipes are laid on top of the geotextile.
Non-perforated polymer pipes are used to drain rainwater.
Stormwater drainage pipes are connected to stormwater inlets installed under the roof drainpipes.
The network of pipes that make up the drainage system and storm water sewer network, is connected to a drainage well, from which it is taken out into a reservoir located nearby or into a roadside ditch.
Then the trench is covered with sand 10 cm thick and compacted on the sides.
The last backfill layer is the soil that was removed during the excavation stage. The top of the trench is covered with turf cut off before work begins.

Wall drainage

Mandatory conditions for installing wall drainage are the presence of a basement or ground floor. Its installation is carried out at the same time as the foundation is being built. In this way, it will be possible to avoid unnecessary labor costs, since there is no need to dig additional trenches. Drains can be laid in a pit dug under the foundation.

Scheme of closed drainage systems.

Calculation of wall drainage is carried out by calculating the length of the trenches and the optimal slope (at least 1% of the length) for the location of the pipes.

Important: for example, if the total length of the trenches is 25 m, then the distance between the highest and lowest points of the system will be 25 cm.

The problem of flooding and increased waterlogging of the soil is familiar to owners of plots located in central region Russia. Dampness and stagnation of water after snow melts do not allow proper preparation of the summer cottage for the summer season, and waterlogging of the soil with constant precipitation is detrimental to many plants. There are several ways to solve these problems, but the most effective is the arrangement of drainage.

In what cases is a drainage system necessary?

Drainage is a technology for collecting and discharging groundwater, melt and storm water from a site, technical and residential buildings. The drainage system prevents leaching, heaving and waterlogging of the soil, which occurs due to oversaturation with moisture.

Arrangement of a drainage system is not necessary at every site. In order to determine how much your area needs drainage, you will need to conduct a visual inspection. Pay attention to whether the area is flooded after the snow melts, how quickly water is absorbed after watering the plants, whether there are puddles after heavy rain and downpour. If you have observed these signs more than once, then drainage is required.

The drainage system helps remove stagnant water from the site

If visual confirmation is not enough, then you can conduct a simple experiment - using hand drill or a regular shovel, you should dig a hole 70–100 cm deep. It is better to do this in several places on the site. If after 24–36 hours water accumulates at the bottom of the hole and does not leave, then this is direct evidence of oversaturation of the soil with moisture.

Soil drainage is carried out under the following conditions:

high groundwater table;
the site is located in an area with clay soil;
the site is located in a lowland or vice versa - on a slope;
The location of the site receives a large amount of precipitation.

The presence of drainage helps preserve finishing and facing materials used for styling garden paths, finishing of the basement and facade of the building.

Types of dehumidification systems

Dehumidification systems land plots there is a great variety. At the same time, in various sources their classification may differ greatly from each other. In the case of drainage systems for suburban and summer cottages It is recommended to use the simplest and most proven solutions.

Surface type drainage

Surface drainage is the simplest and most efficient system. The main task is to drain the soil by draining water formed as a result of rainfall and uneven melting of snow.

Grids protect the open drainage system from large debris

A surface drainage system is constructed across the area of the site, around the house and adjacent buildings, near garage structures, warehouses and the courtyard. Surface drainage is divided into two subtypes:

Point - in some sources referred to as local drainage. Used to collect and drain water from a certain place on the site. The main area of application is drainage of areas under drains, approx. entrance doors and gates, in the area where containers and watering taps are located. Often used as emergency system, if another type of drainage is overloaded.
Linear - used to drain the entire area. It is a system consisting of receiving trays and channels arranged at a certain angle, ensuring a constant flow of water. The drainage system is equipped with filter grids and sand traps. Trays and drains are made of PVC, polypropylene, HDPE or polymer concrete.

When installing a surface drainage system, it is recommended to combine point and linear drainage. This will provide the most effective work systems. If necessary, point and linear drainage can be combined with the system described below.

Deep drainage

Deep drainage is carried out in the form of a pipeline laid in places where constant drainage of the soil or lowering of the groundwater level is necessary. Drains are laid with a slope in the direction of water flow, which enters a collector, well or reservoir located outside the site.

The process of constructing deep drainage in a suburban area

To lower the groundwater level, pipes are laid along the perimeter of the site to a depth of 80–150 cm. In cases where it is necessary to drain water from the foundation of a building, pipes must be laid below its depth. And also drainage pipes can be laid over the entire area of the site with a certain pitch. The distance between drains depends on the depth of their placement and the mechanical composition of the soil.

For example, when installing a drainage system, when drains are laid to a depth of 0.9–1 m, the recommended distance between them is at least 9–11 m. On loamy soil under the same conditions, the step between drains is reduced to 7–9 m, and on clayey up to 4–5.5 m. More detailed data for different laying depths can be seen in the table below. Information taken from the book “Draining land for gardens” by A.M. Dumblyauskas.

Depth of drains, m	Distance between drains, m
Depth of drains, m	Sandy soil	Loamy soil	Clay soil
0,45	4,5–5,5	4–5	2–3
0,6	6,5–7,5	5–6,5	3–4
0,9	9–11	7–9	4–5,5
1,2	12–15	10–12	4,5–7
1,5	15,5–18	12–15	6,5–9
1,8	18–22	15–18	7–11

When laying the pipe, the features of the terrain are observed. According to the technology, drains are laid from the highest to the lowest point on the site. If the area is relatively flat, then to impart a slope, a slope is formed along the bottom of the trench. The minimum slope level is 2 cm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe when constructing drainage in clay and loamy soil. For sandy soil a slope of 3 cm per 1 m is maintained.

When installing long drainage, you should follow minimum slope along the entire length of the drainage route. For example, for a drainage system 15 m long, the minimum level difference between the starting and ending points of the route will be at least 30 cm.

If possible, it is recommended to exceed the stated slope standards. This will ensure faster drainage and reduce the risk of silting and clogging of the drain. In addition, digging a trench with a large slope is much easier than measuring 1–2 cm.

Drainage in a summer cottage - the simplest methods with instructions

To carry out drying yourself land plot through the drainage system, you will need to familiarize yourself with the technology of work, calculate and purchase necessary materials, prepare tools and a place to perform work.

Surface drainage of a summer cottage

Open surface drainage is a universal solution for draining summer cottages without large area. For example, for typical plots of 6 acres. You can take the diagram below as a basis. It shows a herringbone-shaped drainage route. The distance between the drains, as stated above, is selected based on the type of soil (see table).

An example of the location of the drainage system in a summer cottage

To carry out the work you will need a shovel and a bayonet shovel, a tape measure, bubble level, hammer and sharp construction knife. The materials you will need to prepare are gravel of fraction 20–40, geotextiles, edged bars or boards 2–3 m long.

To construct surface drainage on a summer cottage, you will need to do the following:

Sometimes, the base of the trench is concreted along the entire length of the drainage route. This allows you not to worry that over time the earthen walls will begin to crumble, water flow will deteriorate, etc. But this approach is more labor-intensive and requires the ability to work with concrete mixture.

Draining the area using deep drainage

Deep drainage is a standard solution for draining suburban and suburban areas. A deep drainage system can be installed even when there is a protective blind area, concrete or slab paths around the building. If necessary, they can be partially dismantled, but the overall structure will not be damaged.

An example of a drainage system project in a suburban area

Work on the construction of deep drainage includes the following:

According to the design plan of the site, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the location of drainage pipes and determine the water discharge point, that is, the place from where the collected water will be drained into sewer pipes leading to the drainage well. The depth of the pipeline must be below the freezing level of the soil. For the North-Western region this value is about 60–80 cm.
Preparation of trenches for the construction of deep drainage
Taking into account the plan, a trench is dug along the perimeter and area of the site with a depth of up to 1 m. The width of the trench is at least 30 cm. All horizontal sections of the trenches are combined into a single system, which is brought to the water discharge point. After this, trenches are dug maintaining a slope of 2–4 cm per 1 m of surface. To check the quality of the drainage, the trenches are spilled with a large volume of water. If necessary, the slope towards the drainage well increases.
The pit for the drainage well must be dug at the lowest point on the site
At the lowest point of the site, a place is created for the installation of a water intake or filter drainage well. For large areas located on loamy and clayey soil types, it is better to install storage type wells with a volume of up to 1000 liters. For small areas, you can use both storage and filter wells. The type of tank is selected based on the type of soil.
A wide sheet of geotextile is laid on top of the gravel layer.
Fine gravel is poured into the bottom of the trench. The thickness of the layer is 10 cm. A geofabric is laid on the gravel with an overlap on the walls of the trench. To fix the canvas to the walls, wooden or plastic pegs are used, which are driven into the ground. After this, a 10 cm layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 50–60 is poured onto the laid geotextile and carefully leveled in compliance with the slope. A drainage pipe from Ø 110 mm is laid on the crushed stone.
Modular inspection wells are installed at the drain turning points. The diameter and height of the well depend on the expected volume of wastewater. To connect the pipe to the mounting hole, a coupling is used, which is coated with a waterproof sealant before joining. Similar actions are carried out to connect the drainage pipe to the well pipe.
An inspection drainage well is installed in places where the drainage pipe turns
Before backfilling, the drainage system is checked for functionality. To do this, it is drained through drains large volume water. If the water quickly drains and enters the well, then everything is done correctly and you can move on to the final stage. In other cases, you need to find and fix the problem.
A 20–30 cm layer of gravel of fraction 20–40 is poured over the drainage pipes and carefully leveled. After this, the drains with laid crushed stone are covered with geotextiles. A 10–15 cm layer of quarry sand is poured on top of the geofabric and thoroughly compacted. The remaining space in the trench can be filled with fertile soil or regular soil from the site.

Methods for drying an area without drainage

Excessive moisture in the soil and stagnation of water on the site are not always associated with high level groundwater. Sometimes this occurs due to abnormally low temperatures and heavy precipitation. The combination of these factors leads to the fact that moisture does not have time to evaporate, and puddles and mold form on the soil surface.

Sanding clay soil is one of the ways to drain an area without drainage

If, due to some circumstances, it is impossible to install a drainage system, then there are several effective ways to drain the land:

Of the above methods for drying an area, the most effective are adding sufficient quantity fertile soil and arrangement of trenches around the perimeter. On average, 1 m 3 of soil will cost 550–600 rubles. For a plot of 6 acres, 10–12 m3 of soil is sufficient.

The easiest way to drain the soil on a site

Construction of shallow trenches filled with crushed stone is the most in a simple way drainage of a summer cottage. Despite its overall simplicity, this method is very effective and can cope with large amounts of water formed during snow melting.

Work on arrangement of trenches around the perimeter and area of the site includes the following:

If desired, the second layer of crushed stone can be reduced, and the remaining space can be covered with soil from the site. This will hide the drainage under a layer of turf. On top drainage trench It is not recommended to plant flowers and herbs. This is fraught with their death due to high humidity in this place.

How to clear a clogged drain pipe

Failure to comply with the technology for laying drainage pipes is the main reason for stagnation and poor drainage of water from distribution wells. In addition, very often stagnation of water is not associated with a blockage at all. Insufficient slope does not ensure constant and uniform drainage of accumulated water towards the drainage pit.

To clear small blockages, use a steel cable or a hose with strong water pressure.

The easiest way to unclog drain pipes is to use a steel cable drain cleaner. At one end of the cable there is a spiral-shaped nozzle, at the other there is a handle with which you can rotate the cable, creating a mechanical load at the site of the blockage.

To clean pipes Ø110 mm or more, it is recommended to use a cable with a steel brush of the appropriate size. During the cleaning process, it is necessary to lower the cable into the drainage pipe until its end reaches the blockage. Next, by rotating the cable clockwise, you need to try to break through the blockage or move it towards draining the water. Usually, small accumulations of silt and leaves can be pushed through without much difficulty.

If it was not possible to remove the blockage, then you will need to call specialists who, using a pneumatic installation and other equipment, will not only clear the blockage, but also carry out preventive cleaning of the entire surface of the drainage pipes.

Video: do-it-yourself site drainage

Oversaturation of the soil with moisture and stagnation of water on the site are big problem, which affects not only the growth of fruit-bearing crops, but also reduces the service life of a residential building. But it is worth remembering that excess water can be dealt with using a drainage system. It's much worse if fresh water and it will pick up moisture, and constructing a well is impossible due to certain circumstances.

Drainage work is intended to ensure organized drainage of water on the site, the implementation of which is planned at the design stage.

As a result, ground flows, underground inflow of groundwater, falling or melted precipitation fall into a specially equipped channel and are directed outside the courtyard of a country house.

Protect deep foundations, basements and basements, the channels of supply communications from flooding will be able to ring drainage of the house, working together with waterproofing and concrete pavement.

Design principles

Loamy soils they do not allow water to pass through well, and it penetrates into the cavities around the building supports

To figure out how to properly make drainage around a house, one begins by studying the conditions of the location of the site and the results of its geological surveys.

You should not rely on the protective properties of waterproofing layers alone, since in the long term there is no ideal materials, in which, with a large number of exposure cycles, there are no weak points.

Factors influencing the choice of design and combination various types drainage systems for a private house:

location on the ground, the possibility of the formation of storm flows from areas located higher on the slope;
seasonal fluctuations in groundwater level (at high levels, drainage around the house is necessary, including to prevent siltation of the sand and gravel cushion and, as a consequence, increase the heaving of the base);
soil composition (clays and loams do not allow water to pass through well, and it is directed into looser cavities near the load-bearing supports of the building; filling such spaces with clay increases heaving forces aimed at squeezing the foundation out of the ground);
position relative to reservoirs, flood rise of water;
average annual and maximum precipitation typical for the area;
building density on the site, depth of adjacent foundations;
coatings that prevent water from seeping into the soil, collecting it in streams along the surface (asphalt, concrete paths, awnings and roofs);
Discharge from a drainage system installed in a private house must also be directed to a ring drainage system (storm drain).

The design of a house's drainage system is the creation of a calculated engineering system that takes into account the possible combination of various factors in their maximum values.

Types of drainage

Surface drainage consists of point receivers and an outlet system

You can visually imagine what a drainage system around a house is with your own hands by examining the main types of such structures, designed for specific drainage tasks.

They consist of a system of pipes (channels) for collecting water, located both on the surface and at the level of the foundation support.

Surface (storm) drainage of the site combines linear (trays) and point (grids) receivers of incoming water into a system.
Surface execution is also used in cases of diverting transit flows from adjacent territories beyond the boundaries of property.
Wall (foundation) closed drainage for a house is needed to drain groundwater and seeping water from the supporting structural parts of buildings and the foundations of courtyard structures.

It is equipped after completion of the main construction work on the site, before installing lawns and hard surfaces.

This system of perforated pipes receives water from the surrounding soil and is removed through collection wells, a storage manifold, and subsequent discharge into a nearby natural reservoir or general sewer system.

Methods drainage device can be:

An open type in the form of a ditch with a cross-section of 0.5×0.5 m is chosen for large areas (significant flows) in places where they do not interfere with movement. The main advantage is the simplicity and speed of work at low cost. In landscape areas, such channels drain the top layer of soil.
The closed-type drainage around the site is covered with plastic or metal gratings, which reduce the throughput, so the drainage tray is taken with a smaller cross-section. It is safe for pedestrians; installation of drainage channels is carried out in an intensively used small part of the yard. An example of what a closed drainage system looks like is shown in the figure.
The backfill drainage of the site is a channel filled with solid filler (small stone). A perforated pipe can be installed to speed up the drainage of liquid from the bottom of a concrete tray. To prevent siltation of the stone fraction, it is recommended to cover the bulk bulk material geotextile, leaving a small upper layer 5 – 10 cm to protect the canvas from mechanical damage. Periodically, retained dirt is removed by washing the crushed stone.
Deep drainage is used during construction on clay soils and areas with a high level of water content (in lowlands, next to a reservoir). The laid drainage depth around the house is 0.5 m below the base of the foundation. The beginning of drainage work coincides with the construction of the foundation - the drainage pattern around the house is taken into account in the marking of trenches/pits and excavation of the required amount of soil.

Each type of drainage work is different in labor intensity, but has its own characteristics, role in protecting buildings, bandwidth the types are not interchangeable options.

Components

Ditches must be dug at a slope

Correct installation drainage system around the house will require the presence of all components, calculation of the drainage system and compliance with installation rules.

The trenches are dug so that the ring drainage is formed with the required slope using laser level(rangefinder).

The size of the slope may vary depending on the pipe capacity:

You can check the presence of a slope in the trench during the next heavy rain - streams of flowing water should be directed towards the well.

Geotextiles

Textile is a water filter that prevents large fractions from entering drainage pipes

The role of this material in installing drainage is to filter water from small impurities that clog the perforation holes of the pipes and litter the crushed stone.

Reducing the gaps reduces the possibility quick removal water from the area for which the ring drainage is designed.

The throughput of 1 layer of geotextile is given in technical specifications product, depends on the brand and is inversely proportional to strength:

It is placed under the pipes at the bottom of the trench and protects the entire bulk part so that the flow of water into the ring drainage outlet is not reduced. In dry sandy soils protection with drainage pipes may not be used.

Pipe

Corrugated pipes are the most popular

The drainage system can be constructed from pipes that differ not only in Ø, but also in material.

When installing a drainage system, choose products that are not prone to corrosion, since repairing or replacing them is quite difficult.

For drainage installation around the site, choose pipes from the following range:

ceramic (fired clay);
asbestos-cement;
porous;
polymer (corrugated).

The most durable of them include asbestos-cement pipes; in other cases, polymer pipes are usually chosen for the device:

Perforation of drainage pipes is done during factory production or holes and cuts are made when installing the drainage of a private house with your own hands. The gravel fraction should be larger size holes.

Well

Wells are installed at a distance of 12 m from each other

The drainage calculation must include inspection wells for monitoring and cleaning the system.

They are located along the drainage system in increments of about 12 m.

Structurally, production can be made from stacked rings, the Ø of which allows you to clean silt deposits, or products industrial production presented in the table:

You can assemble the ring drainage of the foundation of a private house from pipes various sizes with an increase in the Ø of the passage in the direction of movement of the collected flows. Several drainage pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm can be connected to the well. To learn how a deep drainage well works, watch this video:

Functionally, the well into which water flows from drainage pipes can be accumulating (with a sealed bottom) or absorbing (water gradually goes into the soil through a layer of crushed stone protected from silting by geotextiles).

Pricing

The approach to prices of a specialized company and the scope of work for the construction of wall drainage is divided into the categories “economy”, “standard”, “capital”, the total amount depends on the footage of the system.

In large companies (for example, United Company), services and prices for proper drainage around the house can have a wider range:

verified;
economical;
rational;
premium For more information on how to arrange drainage around the house, watch this video:

Qualified calculation of characteristics of all necessary elements, the ability to carry out installation in compliance with technical specifications, in a short time frame, the first time, implies not only rational use financial resources (with a guarantee from the company for 24 months), but also the service life of the selected system is up to 50 years.