Installation of floors for country baths. How to make a floor in a bathhouse: device, varieties, installation technologies

Despite high temperatures in the steam room, below it rarely exceeds 30 degrees, but on the floor there is constantly high humidity. Therefore, when arranging a floor in such conditions, there are some peculiarities.

In this article we will tell you about how to make a floor in a bathhouse on the ground, the preparation process and laying schemes for a wooden floor.

Types of bath floors

In most cases, a wooden floor is chosen: it is not slippery, costs less, and is easy to install.

Concrete types are usually chosen for public saunas, since intensive use would require replacing the wood every 2-3 years.

Leaking wooden floor is done in cases where it is necessary for moisture to pass freely through the gaps between the boards and be removed from the underground to the outside. Compared to other types, this design has simple technology the buildings. Such option will do only for warm regions, as it has no thermal insulation.
Leak-proof wooden floors are made from tongue-and-groove boards tightly joined together. The slope of the floor in the bathhouse is made towards the drain ladder, which will ensure the removal of moisture into the sewer system or drainage pit.
This kind of floor pie in a bathhouse allows you to make waterproofing, vapor barrier and insulation, which sets it apart from the previous option.
It makes no sense to make a leak-proof floor in the steam room, since the price of the structure increases greatly, and there will not be a lot of water there. For ease of cleaning, you can make the floor slope on both sides.
Concrete floor screed has an advantage over wooden types in high durability. The screed will serve you for 30-50 years, and the tree for less than 10 years.
Although the costs for its installation are higher, operational characteristics concrete beats wood a lot.

Floor design

As a rule, installation of the floor in a bathhouse in a steam room is done at an elevation relative to the zero level of the finished floor. It is enough to raise it by 7-10 cm and the heat will be better retained in the steam room.

In the washing department, on the contrary, the height of the floor in the bathhouse is made lower so that water does not penetrate into other rooms.

Basic materials

It is believed that in the question of which floor is better in a bathhouse, larch is out of competition. In terms of hardness and wear resistance, it is comparable to oak, and moisture only makes it stronger. The only disadvantage of using it is its high cost.

Similar boards made of pine or spruce will cost 2-3 times less. If it is possible to use larch for reasonable money, then it is better to choose it. If not, then you can buy tongue-and-groove boards of birch, pine, spruce, fir, and alder. The subfloor in the bathhouse can be made of pine to save money.

An important rule to follow is to lay only dry boards. Raw wood will greatly change its size and shape during use.

The thicker the board, the more it will deform. Boards 21-25mm thick will change the least in size, but they will sag. To correct this, you can lay the joists more frequently. The best option are 35 mm boards with a width of 12 cm.

For insulation, mineral wool and expanded polystyrene are most often used.

Hydro- and vapor barrier is made from a vapor barrier membrane, such as Izospan. Its advantage is that it allows moisture to pass through only in one direction. Thanks to this, on the one hand, moisture does not pass inside, and on the other hand, excess condensation and steam are removed. This allows you to keep the insulation always dry and it does not lose its characteristics.

Also in this case we will use:

Beam 70*100 mm;
Logs 50*180 mm;
Skull bars 40*40 mm;
Plywood or cutting boards 20-25 mm thick to make a double floor.

Removing the old floor

If you are re-laying the old covering, then first of all you need to dismantle the old floor of the frame bath.

Will need to be removed upper layer soil, about 25 centimeters, to get rid of the fungus that has got into the ground. Old boards should be burned immediately.

Advice!
Concrete walls can be heated by construction gas gun to destroy all the fungus.
Additionally, it needs to be treated with Anti-Mold to remove the remaining pores of the fungus.

Below the floor level, elastic coating waterproofing is made.
A layer of sand backfill is laid on the ground, leveled, and carefully compacted.
Then fiberglass and Izospan vapor barrier are laid on the sand. They need to be sprinkled with another layer of sand on top. This is necessary in order to protect the lower part of the floorboards from moisture, fungus and rot. The insulation sheets must be glued together with tape.

Advice!
If a rat hole is found in the foundation, it must be sealed with concrete with the addition of liquid and broken glass.

Pie and gender features

In this example, floors in a bathhouse are used on the ground. To obtain the desired level of elevation, 70*100 beams are mounted on the posts before laying the logs.

They will take on part of the load, distribute it evenly, increase strength and simplify leveling of the base.

First of all, waterproofing consisting of two layers of roofing material is laid on the foundation and brick pillars.
Then the supporting beams are laid. Their edges will lie on the foundation, and in the center they will be supported by 1-3 columns.
Logs are attached to the corners on top of the beams. They should be cut on both sides along the length to the center by 2 cm to create a slope.
Skull blocks are nailed to the bottom of the joist, forming an inverted "T". They are needed to secure the subfloor, so there is no need for special strength; any screws or nails will do.
The subfloor boards are laid, and a vapor barrier membrane with an overlap of 20-30 cm. Then it will need to be glued together with the waterproofing of the walls.

On the subfloor and covered with a vapor barrier. It is attached to the joists using a stapler. The joints are taped with tape.
Finally, the finished flooring is made from tongue-and-groove boards. To hide the mounting points, they are fastened with self-tapping screws into a groove at an angle of 45 degrees.

Note!
A ventilation gap of 2-3 cm must be provided under the finished floor.
To do this, you can use higher logs, or stuff additional counter-lattice bars on them after attaching the vapor barrier to the insulation.

Manufacturing of supporting posts

To prevent deflection of the support beams from high loads, you need to make additional supports (chairs) in weak spots. Naturally, the most weak points there will be the center of the beams and the place under the stove. Chairs can be made of wood, brick, concrete.

Instructions on how to make concrete pillars with your own hands:

To make concrete pillars, mark their installation locations and dig holes 40 cm deep.
At the bottom of the pit you need to pour a 25 cm layer of sand and crushed stone for the substrate and compact them well.
From the boards, make a formwork approximately 25*25 cm (the size of 1 brick) and a height of up to . Place roofing felt on the inner walls of the formwork.

Advice!
You can do permanent formwork asbestos-cement columns, sewer PVC pipes or twisted roofing felt.

Tie with wire reinforcement cage in each column of rods with a diameter of 10 mm.

Prepare a solution of cement, sand and fine gravel (in proportions 1:3:5).
Before pouring, make an embed in the center of the column for convenient fastening of the beams. It is best made from a threaded pin.
Fill the columns to the same level and leave them to dry for at least a few days. They will gain full strength only in a month.

Installation of subfloor

Advice!
Process everything wooden elements antiseptic before starting work.

Lay and secure the support beams to the foundation. Please ensure that a temperature gap of 1 cm is maintained at the edges of the joists and beams at the junction with the wall. They are attached to the foundation using anchor bolts 12*140 mm.
To make it easier to cut the remaining joists at the same angle for drainage, use one of them as a template.

When laying the subfloor, you can use almost any boards, since it is only needed for laying thermal insulation. However, be sure to treat them with an antiseptic and remove the bark before laying.
We fasten the waterproofing to the joists with a stapler every 10-15 cm with an overlap and overlap on the walls.
The insulation is laid close to each other, with the joints offset. Mineral wool should not be crushed, but cut exactly to the size of the cells.

Then we attach another layer of vapor-waterproofing to the joists in the same way.

Finished floor installation

We fasten the first sheathing board with a self-tapping screw at a distance of 1-2 cm from the wall. Try to do this as close to the wall as possible to hide the cap with the baseboard.
We fasten subsequent boards into the groove to the previous one. To fit them tightly together, make a hammer with a spike. Through it you can knock the boards with a hammer without fear of damaging the joining elements.
If an even stronger connection is required, then make pegs with a spike. By nailing metal staples to the joists, you can use them to wedge the boards, as shown in the photo.

To hide the heads of the screws, all subsequent boards are fastened from the side of the groove, screwing the screws into the joists at an angle. To ensure that the boards are pressed tightly and do not crack, you need to drill holes before doing this.
When installing the last board, it will need to be cut to width. circular saw. It must be secured in the same way as the first one, with self-tapping screws on top.

Conclusion

Having made a wooden floor in frame bath, you can be sure that it will last for at least 10 years of active use. If you want to make a heated floor system, lay a tiled floor in a bathhouse, or make a drain, then you need to make a screed.

The video in this article shows how to install the floor in a bathhouse yourself.

The technology and process of arranging floors in a steam bath and washing department differ significantly from the principles of constructing floors in residential and commercial buildings.

To provide effective system drainage, ventilation, hydro- and thermal insulation, it is necessary to adhere to the basic installation rules. A properly equipped bathhouse floor ensures rapid removal of wastewater and maintains the microclimate in the room.

Often the floor for a bathhouse is made of wood or concrete. It is difficult to determine which floor is better, since each type of base has its own operational features and characteristics that should be taken into account when arranging a private bath.

Concrete floor

Wooden floor

A wooden floor is simpler and more accessible to install, but less durable than its concrete counterpart. After only 10 years of active operation, individual elements of such a structure are subject to reconstruction or replacement.

Plank floors can be made from coniferous and deciduous wood, resistant to moisture and temperature changes. The wooden base comes in two types: leaking and non-leaking.

Leaky type floor

This is a budget design option, presented in the form of a wooden lattice, the individual elements of which are installed in compliance with the gaps for the free discharge of wastewater into the ground.

A leaky floor does not require complex installation drainage system And additional insulation. For this reason, a bathhouse with a similar floor is recommended to be used in summer period or in regions with warm climates.

Such a foundation is available for independent arrangement, in addition, renovation work will not cause technical difficulties. In this design, the floorboards are not attached to the joists, so if necessary, they can be dismantled for drying or replacement.

Non-leakage floor

The leak-proof floor has solid structure, installed on, which are built into the ground or concrete base. For efficient drainage, it is performed at a slight slope towards the drain hole.

To install a solid floor, a tongue-and-groove board made of larch or pine, installed on supports, is used. Quality boards for the floor should not have deformations or defects.

The top flooring is laid on the subfloor, which is pre-insulated with moisture-resistant material.

A bathhouse with this type of floor can be used throughout the year at any temperature.

Selection of consumables and basic calculations

The construction of the floor in the bathhouse involves the use of construction and thermal insulation materials, waste pipes made of metal and plastic, and galvanized fasteners.

What is the best material to make the floor from in the steam room and sink? Quantity and type Supplies depend on the type of floor structure and the method of its installation.

Calculations for a concrete floor

For installation work you need to prepare:

Fine sand for filling a layer 12 cm thick. Volume of material (O) = (3 × 3) × 0.12 cm = 1.08 cubic meters. m.
Expanded clay for backfilling before thermal insulation with a layer thickness of 30 cm. Volume of material (O) = (3 × 3) × 0.30 = 2.7 cubic meters. m.
Expanded polystyrene sheets extruded for thermal insulation. The thickness of the insulating layer is 10 cm. The number of sheets for a room of 9 square meters. m – 2.5 packs.
A mixture based on cement and sand (ready-made or homemade). The thickness of the screed is from 6 to 12 cm. The consumption of the dry mixture is on average 18 kg/sq.m. m. Concrete layer of 1 cm = (3 × 3) × 18 kg/sq. m = 162 kg. For a 6 cm layer: 162 × 7 = 1134 kg or 63 bags of ready-made mixture.
Reinforcement mesh for fixing a concrete layer measuring 5 × 5 cm.
Rolled roofing felt for waterproofing the sand cushion from the expanded clay layer.
Metal profile for beacons under screed. For a steam room with an area of 9 sq. m. 18 meters of profile will be required.
Plastic pipe for drainage up to 5 meters long, with a cross-section up to 3.2 cm, siphon and swivel elbow.

Calculations for wooden floors

As a working example, the calculation of materials for installing a wooden floor in a steam room with an area of 9 square meters is given. m.

To build a simple leaky floor, you will need:

A block for the subfloor measuring 3 × 3 or 4 × 4 cm along the length of the beam. The distance between the beams is 0.5 meters, total material - 30 meters.
Unplaned board for a base up to 25 cm wide and 2.5 cm thick. For one section you need: (300/25) × 0.5 = 6 meters. To design 5 floor sections: 5 × 6 = 30 meters.
Guide bar for creating a drain slope with a cross-section of 2 × 3 or 3 × 3 cm.
A block for fixing joists for a finished base with a section of 6 × 6 cm.
Rolled or sheet roofing felt for waterproofing. For the steam room you need 16 meters of material, taking into account allowances.
Rolled basalt wool 8 cm thick for thermal insulation.
Galvanized steel sheets up to 0.6 mm thick – 11 sq. m. material.
Polymer pipe, elbow and drain for installation in a drain hole. For organization proper drainage The installation of the elbow with the connected pipe must be performed at a right angle.

Concrete floor installation technology

The arrangement of the floor begins with preparing the soil inside the foundation - clearing it of debris and dirt.

The layout of the monolithic base is as follows:

The soil is carefully compacted and leveled. The inner walls of the foundation are treated with bitumen in several layers.
On preparatory stage The sewer pipe is being laid through the foundation. To do this, it is enough to make an inlet hole in the base and install a metal adapter for supplying a plastic pipe.
The drain pipe is brought to the place where the drain hole is provided. The end of the pipe is plugged to prevent clogging.
A sand cushion up to 12 cm high is poured onto the ground, moistened and compacted.
Next, you need to put roofing felt on the internal walls of the base with an overlap of 15 cm. Additionally, the joints are treated with bitumen-based mastic.
Expanded clay up to 35 cm thick is laid, leveled and compacted. There is 8 cm left to the edge of the base.
Expanded clay is covered with a film 200 microns thick, and the joints are taped with construction tape. Thermal insulation is installed on top of the waterproofing.
After the foundation is insulated, guides are installed for pouring concrete in increments of 55 to 95 cm. The beacons are laid on a mixture of cement and sand.
When installing guides, it is important to maintain the required slope for proper water drainage. In this case, the beacons are set strictly according to level.
At the bottom of the walls along the perimeter of the room, a damper tape up to 12 cm high is fixed. After pouring and drying concrete screed Remaining tape can be removed.
The concrete is poured with the prepared mixture and left until completely dry.

Important! 5 days after pouring, the beacons are dismantled, and the existing voids are filled with the mixture. For the first 10 days, the floor is thoroughly moistened with water up to 3 times a day.

Laying technology for leaking wooden floors

A step-by-step guide to installing a leaking floor includes: phased implementation works: preparation of the underground, installation of logs and wooden flooring.

Preparation of the underground

In order for water entering the underground to be discharged into the ground, it is necessary to properly prepare the base - for this, the top layer of soil is cut off and a waterproofing cushion made of small crushed stone up to 26 cm thick is backfilled.

For soils with low level moisture absorption, the soil is removed at a slight angle, and the drainage is organized into a 30-centimeter pit through sewer pipe. The soil is covered with clay and leveled.

Important! Before filling the pillows, install supports under wooden joists, and also build a foundation for heating equipment.

Installation of support beams

How to install logs correctly? They are mounted on concrete supports equipped with a brick stand. The height of the log bookmark is determined by the height of the pillars ( columnar foundation) or tapes ( strip foundation).

The installation of the logs is carried out opposite the short wall of the building. To avoid deformation of the joists or their swelling, the supports are closed double layer waterproofing made from roofing felt treated with hot bitumen.

To ensure natural ventilation when laying logs to the walls, a minimum technological gap of 4 cm should be observed.

Wood flooring

To lay the floor, use boards that are fixed perpendicular to the installed joists. In this case, it is necessary to maintain space between individual floor elements - 5 mm, between boards and walls - 2.5 cm. Fixation wooden shield to the joists is done using metal nails.

Technology for laying leak-proof wooden floors

The installation of a wooden floor in a bathhouse involves the installation of support beams similar to the previous option, with the formation inclined surface for efficient drainage of wastewater.

Installation of the floor in the bathhouse is carried out in the following order:

Organization of water intake system. The first stage of installing a non-leaky floor is the organization of a water intake measuring 45 × 45 cm, located between the supports and thermally insulated with a solution of clay or cement. The depth of the water intake is 35 cm. At a height of 3 cm from the bottom of the receiver, at a slight slope, a pipe is installed to discharge wastewater into a drainage well or pit.
Installation of subfloor. After installing the log on support pillars The subfloor is fixed - a sheet of cheap material, for example, a second-grade board. Hydro-, heat- and vapor barrier is laid on the boards in layers to protect against moisture.
Fixation of the finishing coating. On installed logs fix the finishing coating from tongue-and-groove boards with a low moisture absorption coefficient. Along the perimeter of the room, a gap of 2 cm is maintained from the walls for natural ventilation. The boards are fixed with nails at an angle of 50 degrees. Finally, decorative plinth is installed.

Important! Wall surfaces are covered over the installed baseboard to prevent condensation from collecting under the baseboard.

Effective protection of joists and floor coverings from rotting

To prevent the bathhouse floor from rotting, experts recommend treating it with heat-resistant water-based varnish. Such a coating can withstand heating temperatures of over 100 degrees, providing surfaces reliable protection from high humidity, hot steam and dirt.

Protective varnish is applied to wooden base brush in several layers. Work is carried out in a well-ventilated room at an air temperature of 4 to 28 degrees.

If you are installing a wooden floor in a leaky bathhouse, then protective composition applied to the topcoat and support joists.

Laying floors in a bathhouse is a complex procedure that depends on design features building, its size and type of foundation. But, despite the technical difficulties, any owner of a private bathhouse can master the technology of laying floors with his own hands.

The installation of floors in a bathhouse is one of the most critical stages of construction. The floors in the bathhouse can be wooden or concrete. In this article we will look at how to make a floor in a bathhouse with your own hands. The article describes in stages the construction of a wooden floor in a bathhouse of two types: leaking and non-leaking, as well as the construction of a concrete floor.

Wooden floor installation

As already written in the first part, laying a wooden floor in a bathhouse will require 25 pcs. boards 50 mm thick and 150 mm wide. To lay floorboards, it is necessary to lay logs from timber 150x150 mm (200x200 mm) or logs with a diameter of 14-18 mm.

Wooden floors can be of two types - leaking and non-leaking.

Leaky bath floors

Leaking floors- these are floors when water flows into the cracks between the boards and goes into the ground under the bathhouse.

Advantages of leaky floors over non-leaky floors:

the installation of such floors is less expensive in financial terms;

low labor intensity of installation of such floors.

The disadvantage of a leaky floor over a non-leaky one is that it is a cold floor. It is advisable to install a cold floor in a bathhouse in the southern regions of the CIS.

Leak-proof bath floors

Non-leakage floors- this is when water flows down the floor into a specially made hole and is collected in a water collector and flows out of the bathhouse through a drainage pipe. Such floors have a so-called “subfloor” and their installation is currently more common than the installation of leaking floors.

The advantage of non-leaking floors over leaking floors is that such a floor is warm, since it has a “subfloor” and a layer of insulation. The disadvantages include the fact that the installation of such floors is more labor intensive compared to the installation of leaking floors - you need to make a floor slope, a “subfloor”, drainage, etc.

Preparing the base for a wooden floor

The construction of a wooden floor in a bathhouse begins with the laying of floor joists made of solid pine or larch, onto which the boards are attached. It is also better to choose floor boards from the same wood as the logs. The floors in the bathhouse must be sloped so that the water flows in a certain direction. To do this, it is necessary to lay the logs not at the same level, but with a difference that forms the angle of inclination of the floor in the bathhouse.

Note: For leaking floors, a floor slope is not necessary.

The logs should be laid at the shortest distance from one wall of the bathhouse to the other. If the bathhouse, as in our case, has equilateral walls - 4x4 m, then the logs can be laid without taking into account the distance between the walls.

Logs laid transversely to the water drain in the bathhouse floor

The only thing you need to do is determine the direction of water flow if the floors in the bathhouse are not leaking. The logs must be laid in a transverse direction relative to the water drainage.

In order for the logs to have sufficient rigidity and not bend under the load placed on them, support chairs must be made in the center of each log. Support chairs can be made of wood, brick or concrete (monolith).

If the support chairs are made of brick or wood, then you need to make a concrete support platform for them, the thickness of the platform must be at least 20 cm, and must be reinforced with at least a chain-link mesh. The platform should protrude from the support by a distance of about 5 cm on each side.

Design of the support platform for the joist

Under the base of the site, you need to dig holes 40 cm deep, compact the bottom and edges. Pour sand into a 10 cm layer at the bottom of the holes and compact it thoroughly, spilling with water. Place a layer of about 15 cm of coarse crushed stone or broken brick on top and compact it just as thoroughly.

Composition and dimensions of the layers of the support platform for the log

Make formwork from edged boards and install it in the pit - the edges of the formwork should protrude at least 5 cm above the ground level, and make waterproofing around the edges from roofing felt or roofing felt.

After the formwork is installed, you can begin preparing the concrete. To prepare the concrete mixture you will need sand, fine crushed stone or gravel, cement and water. The preparation of the concrete mixture can be done in the following proportions:

1 part cement;

3 parts sand;

5 parts fine crushed stone or gravel.

When cement mixture ready, it should have a consistency that allows the concrete to be compacted - i.e. concrete mixture should be thick. Having laid the first layer of concrete in the formwork - about 12-14 cm, it must be thoroughly compacted and a piece of mesh, pre-cut to the size of the formwork, must be placed. Place a second layer of concrete on top, level with the edges of the formwork, and compact it.

Note: Concrete platforms should be left until the concrete has completely dried for one day.

Before installing a support on the site - wooden or brick - you need to make a layer of waterproofing. To do this, you need to apply a layer of molten bitumen to the surface of the site and lay roofing material on it. The height of the supports should correspond to the height of the places on which the ends of the floor joists will rest

Waterproofing of support platforms

If the bathhouse has a strip foundation, then the top of the support and the top of the foundation should be at the same level.

Supports for logs at the same level as the grillage

If the foundation is columnar (as in the described version of building a bathhouse) and the ends of the logs rest on the beams of the embedded crown, then the top of the supports should be flush with the top of the embedded beam.

When the supports are installed, you can begin to prepare the so-called underground, or rather the surface of the soil in the underground.

Filling subfloors for juice water in a bathhouse

If the floors in the bathhouse are leaky, and the soil allows water to pass through well ( sandy soil), then in this case you need to make a backfill of crushed stone, approximately 25 cm thick. Water, flowing through the cracks in the floor, will pass through the crushed stone and be absorbed into the sand. The crushed stone will serve as something of a filter, and the surface of the soil in the underground will not silt, the humidity will be moderate, and the underground will dry out well.

If there is soil under the bathhouse that does not absorb water well, then in this case you need to make a tray in the ground for the water to flow into a drainage pit, from which the water will flow outside the bathhouse.

Tray for draining water into a catch basin

To do this, you need to make a clay castle under leaking floors with a slope towards a pit to collect water. The castle can also be made of concrete, but this is not a necessary financial investment; a castle made of clay is quite sufficient.

For device clay castle it is necessary to pour a layer of crushed stone, 10 cm thick, onto the surface of the soil of the bathhouse underground and compact it tightly, then pour a 15 cm thick layer of clay on top of the crushed stone and level it so that the soil surface has a slope on both sides towards the drainage tray relative to the horizon line.

Clay castle in the underground bathhouse

For floors in the bathhouse that do not leak, the surface of the underground can be insulated with expanded clay, but you should pay attention that there is a distance of at least 15 cm between the layer of expanded clay and the joists, which is necessary for ventilation of the underground.

Near the wall, in the washing compartment, you need to make a pit and compact its walls, strengthening them with clay. From the pit, bring out a pipe through which water will flow from the pit (water intake). The pipe must have inner diameter at least 150 mm so that water flows out of the underground as quickly as possible.

Laying lags

Laying logs in the floor for a bath

For a non-leakage floor, laying the joists should begin from the walls to the water collection pit. The outermost joists have the highest point in relation to the other floor joists. There is no need to make cuts in the outer joists.

Size of cutting in logs

For subsequent joists, you need to make notches with a slight bevel - about 2-3 mm, the same notch needs to be made in the joist in the place that comes into contact with the support (notch to the width of the support). The floor slope will be approximately 10 degrees. The depth of the notch depends on the number of logs - if there are four logs on the entire floor, then the depth of the notches will be deeper than in the logs, the number of which is six.

For leaking floors, the joists can be laid from any wall and without a slope; the joists for leaking floors can be at the same level relative to each other.

Joists in a leaking floor at the same level relative to each other

At the beginning, the beams for the floor joists need to be cut to the size of the bathhouse, so that on both sides the joists do not reach the walls by about 3-4 cm. This distance is necessary for ventilation between the joists and the walls of the bathhouse.

Structural elements when laying joists

The logs must be laid on the embedded timber and support pillars only through waterproofing - through roofing felt, glassine, etc. Each lag must also be treated with an antiseptic.

Checking the horizontality of the joists using building level

The horizontal position of the logs is checked using a building level. If the air bubble is not located in the center, as shown in the figure, then it is necessary to trim the places on the joist that rest on the support or on the embedded beam; it is necessary to trim until the level shows that the joist is laid exactly relative to the horizon line.

Leveling floor joists for a bathhouse

The uniformity of laying the lags relative to each other is also checked by level. To do this, you can place one board on the logs, which have a flat surface, and place a level on it. Checking the uniformity of the laying of the lags is checked at three points near the walls and in the center. If necessary, the logs must be leveled using pads or the logs must be cut to the required level.

Distance from joist to foundation

Attention! Near the foundation, the logs should be located directly along the edges of the foundation at a distance of 10-15 cm from each edge, as shown in the figure.

After the logs are laid and you begin laying the floorboards, you need to finish the stove foundation to the level of the flooring.

Finishing the foundation with bricks

To do this, on a site made in advance, you can lay the foundation for the stove from refractory or red baked bricks, or you can also make the foundation for the stove concrete (monolithic).

To build a brick foundation you will need following materials- the brick itself and the cement-sand mixture for laying bricks.

The foundation can be laid entirely out of brick. In this case, approximately 104 pieces will be required. bricks, but the middle can be filled with broken used bricks. If you build a concrete monolithic foundation, you will need to make formwork, reinforcing strapping, and this will increase the labor intensity of constructing the foundation. So an easier way is to build a brick foundation.

Laying a leaking floor

Laying the boards of a leaking floor is carried out from unedged boards, which must be pre-planed; you especially need to pay attention to the fact that the ends of the boards must have a flat surface.

Installation diagram of the joists relative to the walls

The first step is to cut the boards to the size of the bathhouse, taking into account the fact that there must be a ventilation gap of at least 2 cm between the boards and the walls. You can start laying the floor from any wall located parallel to the laying of the boards.

Scheme for installing joists in a leaking floor

When the boards are cut, it is necessary to lay the first board, retreating from the wall about 2 cm and nail it (for example: the board is 40 mm thick, which means the length of the nail is at least 80 mm).

Scheme of hammering a nail for fastening a log

Nails are driven into the board along each edge, at a distance of approximately 15 mm; it is also necessary to take into account that the nails should be driven in at an angle from the center of the board - an inclination angle of approximately 40 degrees. The board is attached to each joist with at least two nails.

Scheme of laying lags relative to each other

After the first board is nailed, the next board is laid, the gap between them should be at least 3 mm; you can use a piece of fiberboard sheet as a template for the gaps and insert it between the boards.

Note: The floor in the dressing room can be laid without gaps.

After the floors are laid, the boards need to be covered with two layers of drying oil. Usually the boards are not painted so that the floors dry better.

Non-leakage flooring

Tongue and groove board for non-leaking floor

Non-leakage flooring is made from tongue and groove boards coniferous species wood.

The boards must be laid with the groove inside the bathhouse, since when adjusting the boards it will be necessary to tap with a mallet on the end on which the groove is made, since the tongue may break off because it is half the thickness of the board.

Subfloor for a non-leaking bath floor

But before you start laying the floor, you need to make a “sub-floor”. To do this, you need to attach bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm along the edges of the logs from below. Lay a “black” floor from scrap boards on these bars between the joists, you can use unedged board, board of the second or third grade, as well as slab.

Waterproofing non-leaking floor

When the “subfloor” is laid, waterproofing (roofing felt, glassine or waterproofing films) is laid on top.

"Pie" between the joists near the non-leaking floor of the bathhouse

As insulation, you can use expanded clay, which needs to be filled between the joists. After filling the expanded clay, you also need to do waterproofing.

Scheme for laying the finished bath floor

When the installation of the “sub-floor” is completed, you can lay the finished floor boards from tongue-and-groove boards. The boards in the washing compartment and steam room do not need to be fastened with nails so that they can be removed for drying. You can fasten such a floor like this: from the edges, the boards are fastened using bars with a cross-section of 20x30 mm. The bars are attached to the joists using wood grouse screws, and when it is necessary to remove the floor, the bars can be easily removed.

But the installation of a so-called removable floor in a bathhouse is not very popular among builders; basically, the floor panel is made of tightly fitted boards and the floor will not be removable (see)

Ventilation of the space between the subfloor and the main floor

Simple ventilation diagram

In this case you can do the simplest system ventilation of the space between the “subfloor” and the panel flooring of the main floor.

There is another technology for installing a wooden floor - multi-level floors. This is when the floors in the bathhouse are not at the same level relative to the horizon line.

Layout diagram of multi-level floors for a bathhouse

So the floor level in the dressing room is 3 cm higher than the floor level in the wash room, and the floor level in the steam room is 15 cm higher.

This floor serves:

to reduce the volume of the steam room, which will save time on warming up the air and reduce fuel consumption for the bath, and also the floors in the steam room can be insulated with a thicker layer thermal insulation material, which will make the floors in the steam room even warmer;

the difference in floor level between the wash compartment and the dressing room serves as waterproofing; dampness does not washing compartment will take place directly underground.

Note: Based on the experience of building baths and looking at examples of other builders who are engaged in the construction of baths, I can say the following: floors can only be raised in a steam room, this gives an effective effect. But the floors in the wash room and in the dressing room can be made at the same level, since the penetration of moisture from the wash room into the dressing room is prevented by a partition with vapor-waterproofing and the threshold of the doorway. But there is always a choice - and everyone decides for themselves how best to make the floor in the bathhouse, I gave only examples of the device, and the choice is yours, dear readers.

Types of pipes for ventilation in the bathhouse

To install such ventilation, it is necessary to leave holes in the floor in the corners of the bathhouse in the washing compartment for subsequent installation of asbestos-cement, PVC pipes or metal pipes made of galvanized steel. The diameter of the pipes can vary from 50 to 100 mm.

Note: if the ventilation pipe will pass in a steam compartment, then in this case it is best to use a galvanized iron pipe, since in a steam compartment the temperature can reach more than 90 degrees and a specific unpleasant odor can emanate from PVC pipes.

Fasteners for ventilation pipes in the bathhouse

Installation of pipes is carried out after finishing the internal walls of the bathhouse. If pipes are used with a small diameter of up to 50 mm, then they can be hidden under the cladding of the walls of the bathhouse. Ventilation from pipes of larger diameter is installed in the corners of the washing compartment and attached to the walls using clamps (see photo). Usually pipes with large diameter installed in bathhouses in which the so-called bathing day takes place not once a week, but three or more times a week. This increases the degree of humidity in the bathhouse, in the underground and requires more functional ventilation, and pipes with a large diameter remove evaporation vapors much more effectively than pipes with a small diameter.

Construction of a concrete bath floor

In addition to a wooden floor, you can also make a concrete floor in the bathhouse. The advantage of a concrete floor over a wooden floor is the fact that a concrete floor has a longer service life (wooden up to 6-10 years, and concrete at least 30 years).

The disadvantages of a concrete floor include the fact that the installation of such a floor is more labor-intensive in relation to wooden floor(preparation of concrete mixture, laying and compacting concrete, floor reinforcement, installation of thermal insulation between layers of concrete).

Do-it-yourself concrete floor installation diagram for a bathhouse

Before installing a concrete floor, you need to make a pit that will serve as a drainage basin, and make a drainage system - lay a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm and lead it outside into the drainage ditch. The walls of the pit can be concreted - the thickness of the walls must be at least 5 cm. The dimensions of the pit for a 4x4 m bathhouse can be 40x40x30 cm.

To lay concrete, you must first prepare the base. This will require crushed stone or gravel, as well as broken bricks or natural stone. On the leveled ground it is necessary to lay a layer of broken brick 15 cm thick, pour a layer of crushed stone 10 cm thick on top and compact it thoroughly.

When the base is prepared, the first layer of concrete can be laid - the layer thickness is 5 cm, and the floor should have a slope towards the pit. The slope of the floor can be controlled using a building level.

When the first layer of concrete has hardened, you can pour a layer of expanded clay 5-8 cm thick and put a second layer of concrete on top, which must be reinforced with at least a chain-link mesh. After thoroughly compacting the concrete with a specially made simple device or it is best to use a battery vibrator for compacting concrete, the floor surface must be leveled by applying a cement-sand mortar and smooth the surface, for example with a trim edged boards having straight ends.

Cement-sand mortar is best prepared with the addition of expanded sand - perlite. This material will not only provide a reliable cement floor covering, but will also improve the thermal insulation of the concrete floor. Perlite is a specific material, and working with it can be difficult for beginners in terms of preparing a properly mixed solution of the desired consistency.

Take two buckets of perlite and carefully pour it into a concrete mixer or a special container in which you will prepare cement mortar. Next, you need to pour a 10-liter bucket of water into a container with perlite and knead thoroughly.

Note: since perlite is expanded sand, after adding water and kneading, the volume of the solution will decrease by about 1/3.

If the perlite is well mixed with water, you need to add cement - about half the volume of a 10 liter bucket and resume mixing the components. After 5-8 minutes of mixing, you need to add 5 liters of water and continue kneading.

When the mixture of components has reached a homogeneous mass, you need to add another bucket of perlite and about 2 liters of water (no more!) and continue mixing the cement mortar. Kneading must be continued until an almost free-flowing mixture is obtained. This is what you should pay attention to - even though the mixture has become free-flowing, you cannot add water. You need to let the cement mixture stand for about 10 minutes and continue mixing; during the mixing process, the cement mortar will become plastic, and water will come out of the mixture, standing out as a separate element - this is excess water.

When the cement mixture has become plastic, you can lay it on the floor and make a cement screed. The hardening time for this mixture is 4-5 days. The top of the floor in the bathhouse can be covered with tiles, but not tiled ones, otherwise the floors in the bathhouse will be slippery, which greatly increases the risk of injury when washing in a bathhouse with such floors.

Note: The floors in the dressing room can be made of wood.

The main task of the floor in the bathhouse is not just to ensure safety and ease of movement, but also to play the role of quality sewer device, capable of removing water, but not rotting or deteriorating. The most important thing is to familiarize yourself with the basic principles of installing a floor in a bathhouse.

Types of floor

When choosing the materials used, it is worth remembering that there are only two options: either wooden boards, or concrete. Concrete option It will turn out to be more durable, it will last more than 50 years, but it will also take longer to work on its creation.

As for wooden boards, they are laid on logs, and little time and effort is required. However, the service life of the boards is about 7 years, and then the floor will have to be replaced.

The wooden type of masonry for bath flooring can be divided into two types:

Leaking floor. It is rightfully considered the most simple type, which installs quite easily. A distance of at least 3 mm must be maintained between the main boards, but it can be increased to 2 cm. The photo shows an example of such a floor.

Tip: Don't nail down your wood floor. This is necessary so that the entire structure can be taken outside in warm weather to dry. This maneuver will help preserve the service life of the product.

The main feature of a leaky type of floor is that water easily gets under the boards, and special gaps are provided in the bottom covering for drainage. But such a floor requires an internal drainage structure.

Non-leakage floor. The design of this bath floor is quite complex. It is installed on the so-called subfloor, which is built together with insulation, if necessary. There should be at least two centimeters between the wall and the boards, and the nails used to secure the floor are quite large - the average size is 8 cm.

To lay such a floor, you need to take strong boards, made from deciduous trees, and install them in two rows.

Important: the boards must be perfectly flat, without gaps. When installing, they should be pressed tightly against each other, since water should not seep into the coating.

The leak-proof floor is installed on joists secured to supports. The supports are made of concrete, and their height should be strictly controlled so that it is at the same level. Concrete must be poured under the board supports. A suitable concrete mixture made from M100 cement, formed by wooden structures, which are removed after the mixture dries. Concrete is laid out on the cleaned surface, after which the appropriate amount of time is waited (depending on the characteristics of the concrete used).

When constructing a non-leaking floor, it is necessary to create a gap that will differ in height from the main part of the floor. It should also consist of wooden planks, clearly cut from the tree and firmly pressed together. A siphon is inserted into the thickness of the gap, which transports the accumulated water into the septic tank or sewer ditch.

Instead of a siphon, you can use a special tray that will match the depth of the boards. It should be installed at a slight angle to make it easier for water to drain out of the bath.

How to make a concrete floor

The subfloor for a suitable bathhouse flooring design is made primarily of concrete. However, it is better to alternate the components, and it is better to do this in the correct sequence:

We strengthen and compact the soil well. It must be in a dry state, otherwise, when dried, it may shrink in volume, and this will jeopardize the durability of the structure. Soil thickness – 5 cm;

Strengthening layer. It consists of a gravel-crushed stone mixture, which should be laid with a thickness of 10 cm;

We lay concrete - the first 5 cm;

If insulation is needed, and it is practically necessary to install it in a non-leaky field, felt or expanded clay can be used as a basis. The main thing is to withstand the necessary drying time. It is better to make the layer small, since the material may lose strength;

A layer of concrete with a chain-link mesh is laid for maximum reliability and durability;

A layer of concrete that will level the surface. Concrete is applied thin layer, and the main task when applying it is to create the most even surface possible, removing all the depressions and gaps;

Coating.

Important: a flat floor surface must be achieved taking into account the slope of the entire floor of 10 degrees. This is done to ensure that the water flows as quickly as possible to the right place and is discharged into the sewer.

Selection of materials

The wood for a bath floor can be different, but larch is the best option However, it will be more expensive in price than pine, fir, alder and birch. Larch is comparable in its qualities to oak, which outperforms all other types of finished flooring materials in terms of wear resistance and service life.

It is best to use boards with a thickness of 30-35 mm and a width of 12 cm.

If you buy insulation in a store, such as cotton wool, it should be about 8 cm thick.

Important: the boards must be dried well after processing. If this is not done, the material will curl during operation, cracks will appear and the service life of the floor will be significantly reduced.

The support beams should have dimensions of 70x100x2960 mm. Logs – 5x18x24.6 cm. Skull block– 4x4 cm. The subfloor is covered with boards of any size, but the thickness should be about 20-25 cm.

Floor assembly procedure

One of the options for assembling a durable and durable bath floor is shown in the image:

The procedure is as follows:

Backing beams are laid on the strip foundation;

On top of the backing beams there are two layers of rolled roofing felt;

Tip: the support beams are installed clearly from wall to wall so that there are no gaps. The ideal option is to install the beams on support pillars, which are made of cement. Two such pillars are enough for the reliability of the structure, however, if the bathhouse is large, you can make three.

Logs are installed. They need to be nailed down. You need to install one log at each wall and one every 10 centimeters from the previous one. The next one is mounted in the center, and from it you can calculate the distance to the next ones (about 20 cm);

Beams for the subfloor are installed, which are fastened firmly on both sides of the joists with nails;

A moisture-proof membrane is laid on the damn floor, secured with nails;

A layer is installed on top of the membrane basalt wool. It should be divided into segments that will correspond to the size of the areas between the logs;

Next, the finishing floor is laid, consisting of prepared boards. It is important to maintain a gap of 2 cm between the finished floor and the thermal insulation membrane. It is not recommended to leave a larger gap, as the floor may begin to sag.

Important: the finished floor must be securely fastened. For this, nails 8 cm thick are used.

How to attach different floor structural elements

The backing beam must be attached directly to the foundation. Anchor bolts with a diameter of 1.2 cm and a length of 14 cm are excellent for this. The bolt must be fastened from above, since all other placement methods will be risky and unreliable. Even if you choose the method of fastening from above, you need to ensure that the concrete does not crack. Therefore, the work is carried out carefully and slowly.

Tip: Each subfloor beam must be secured with four bolts.

The support beam is attached to the support post using galvanized corners measuring 6x6 centimeters. It must be attached to the beam using self-tapping screws. There must be a different fastening to the supporting pillars - screws 0.5x5 cm. One of each fastening will be enough for each structure, on each side. One to the beam, one to the support post.

Support beams and logs should also be fastened to each other using corners according to a similar principle.

The cranial bars are connected to the previous layer quite simply. The number of nails used for fastening does not matter. It also does not matter at what distance the connections occur.

The tongue and groove boards are fastened at clearly defined 45 degree angles. You can attach them to a groove or a tenon - at the discretion of the master. The main thing is to make the fastenings reliable and correct.

Waterproofing should be secured to each other and to the joists only with staples. An equal distance must be maintained between the fasteners, which should not exceed 15 centimeters. It is also not recommended to fasten at a distance of less than 10 cm, otherwise the material may begin to sag a little. You can take any stapler to get the job done, both small and large will do. It is important to test the stapler before starting to work on rough material. If gaps are created, it is necessary to adjust the width of its fastening. First of all, it all depends on the quality and origin of the purchased thermal insulation material.

The thermal insulation material, when all actions on the fastenings have already been completed, must be covered with a special self-adhesive tape. For example, excellent option will be the Isofix brand.

Features of laying the finished floor

First, take a lath, the thickness of which can be ideal 2 cm. It is installed along the shortest wall using self-tapping screws. This design will help make a support on which the entire finished floor will rest.

The very first board needs to be installed with a distance of about 2 cm from the wall. Fastening can take place using a tenon or groove to the wall.

Boards in places where they intersect with joists, and each board intersects in several places, must be fastened with self-tapping screws. It is important to take into account that wooden boards can burst from sudden and careless impact, creating cracks, so you should work gradually. For high-quality fastening, one self-tapping screw in the area of each intersection with the joists is sufficient.

In this way we connect all the boards, fastening them only with the joists. The boards are not attached to each other; this is simply not necessary. In this case, each board must be inserted into a tenon or groove, depending on the chosen fastening method.

Tip: to prevent the board from bursting when screwing in the screw, you need to work at an angle of 45 degrees - besides, this is very convenient.

If it is necessary to cut a board, it should be done with a circular saw, which will help ensure that the work is as accurate as possible and looks neat.

What tools may be useful:

Screwdriver;

Plane;

Hacksaw (for wood);

Self-tapping screws, dowels, bolts;

Drills for hard alloys;

Hammer;

Level;

Stapler;

Wooden materials of appropriate sizes

Advice: it is best to lay the finished floor so that the angle of inclination is in the direction that is directed along the length of the boards, and not across the width. This will help extend the life of the products, since the direction of water also plays a role in rotting processes.

And the last thing to consider: if you cut the boards, be sure to treat the cut areas with an antiseptic.

Bath floors have several significant functions that justify their differences from “residential” standards. In addition to guaranteeing safe movement in conditions of constant moisture, they play the role of a component of the sewer system. A properly constructed floor in a bathhouse will ensure proper drainage of water and will not rot or wear out ahead of time. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the specifics different technologies construction of bath floors and choose the most acceptable scheme. A separate project with mathematically accurate calculations is being developed for the floor of the fundamental bath structure. But for the majority of compatriots who have bought a ready-made log house for a bathhouse and are engaged in arranging the bathhouse personally, it is enough to receive general concepts about the difference in construction principles. Any of the proposed schemes House master will be able to independently modernize it to the needs and requirements of its own construction.

Guidelines for choosing a future design

The owner of a country bathhouse must initially decide on the type of drainage of water constantly pouring onto the floor and the material for constructing the floor. Basically, in buildings recognized as a mandatory component of suburban areas, the floor is poured with concrete or boards are laid on logs.

A concrete foundation will require more labor effort, money and time, but it will serve without any complaints for more than half a century.
It is easiest and cheapest to build a floor in a bathhouse with your own hands using lumber, but after 7-8 years its wooden elements will need to be replaced.

Wood structures, based on the type of drainage and the associated complexity of the structure, are divided into leaking and “non-leaking” subcategories.

Pros and cons of leaking floors

A leaky floor is the simplest and extremely cheap. It is a boardwalk, between the elements of which gaps are left for direct discharge of wastewater into the ground. It does not have any additional sewer “delights” except for the drainage hole located in the underground, and there is no insulation either. Therefore, a leaky floor is suitable for bathhouses in the southern regions and for temporary summer cottage use.

Building such a floor for a bathhouse with your own hands is as easy as shelling pears. It will not be difficult to replace damaged elements and complete repairs. The boards are not nailed to the joists at all; they can and should be removed and taken outside for ventilation and drying. If desired, instead of a drainage pit, you can install a pan, the drainage from which will be discharged into a sewerage facility.

Specifics of leak-proof design

A non-leaking system is much more complex. It is constructed from two rows of boards. The top flooring, going on top of the logs, is made of tongue-and-groove pine or larch boards without the slightest gaps. A subfloor is installed below. A non-leaking floor is classified as “dry” and can be equipped with insulation.

The floorboards of the finishing flooring are placed with a slope towards the place where wastewater is collected and subsequently discharged into a sewer ditch or septic tank. A hole is made at the lowest point of the plank surface, to which a siphon is connected to drain the waste. The hole can be replaced with a full-length tray. The tray is installed with a slope towards the collection point of contaminated water.

What should the concrete floor pie be like?

Concrete floors in bathhouses are poured in three technological stages. The exaggerated “sandwich” of the design consists of six components, these are:

compacted and strengthened soil base prepared for pouring;
first layer of concrete 5 cm;
insulation, most often expanded clay or felt;
reinforcing concrete layer with chain-link mesh;
leveling layer;
coating.

Tamping the soil and the reinforcing gravel-crushed stone mixture of 15 cm laid on top of it, as well as pouring each of the “sandwich” layers, is carried out with a slope towards the drainage pit. As a result, the design should turn out normal . The slope is standard, like wooden structures, 10º.

We decided on a scheme according to which the installation of floors in the bathhouse would be carried out. Do not forget that if the floor has to support the weight of the capital and not the portable sauna stove, you need to take care of creating a foundation for it in advance.

Features of the construction of wood floors

The main element of the structures wooden floors for a bathhouse there are logs resting on the foundation beam of a columnar type foundation or on the edge of a strip foundation.

All points of contact between the logs and the foundation elements must be insulated with two or three layers of roofing material coated with heated bitumen or dissolved in the solarium. Instead of this budget option You can use eurobitumen or other effective waterproofing material.

Boards are laid on the joists. In the case of leaking floors, the boards are laid with equal empty spaces between them of 3-4 mm; a technological two-centimeter gap should remain along the perimeter between the flooring and the walls of the bathhouse. Owners of small buildings who want to know “how to make a floor in a bathhouse” can lay logs on the frame beam without erecting additional devices, if the log between the support points is less than 3 meters.

The direction of the lag during the construction of a leaking floor determines shortest distance between the walls. When constructing a non-leakage structure, the direction of installation of the joists should be perpendicular to the direction of drainage.

Construction of support chair-pillars

Construction of floors in large bath buildings will require the preliminary installation of support posts-chairs with a cross-section of 25 cm. Craftsmen planning to lay boards with a thickness of 19 mm will need to build support posts every 70 cm. For a board marked 22 - after 80 cm, for a board with a size 29 - after 90 cm .

Under the pillars, small foundations of 20 cm in thickness are made or sandy soil is compacted. A foundation poured into formwork made from low-grade boards is more reliable. Craftsmen studying the construction of a floor in a bathhouse should know that the edge of the base for the supports should “protrude” at least 5 cm on each side of the column.

The supports above the foundation can be made of brick, made of logs, or cast monolithic from cement. You can cheaply and quickly make a support column from an asbestos pipe with suitable diameter. A section of pipe is buried in the ground, the soil around it is compacted, then cement mortar is poured into the finished formwork.

Before laying the logs, the support pillars must be leveled. The level of their upper plane should coincide with the level of the upper plane of the elements on which the edges of the logs will rest.

Arrangement of the underground bathhouse

The owner constructing a leaking wooden floor needs to find out what filtration properties the soil on his site has. If there is an excellent natural filter under the bathhouse - sand, to arrange the underground you will only need to fill in a 25-centimeter layer of gravel. It will serve as a purifier for wastewater passing through it before transiting into the ground. There should be a distance of min 10 cm between the logs and the upper plane of the backfill.

If there is soil under the bathhouse with low filtration properties (loam, clay, sandy loam), you will have to work hard. You will need to make a tray for transporting wastewater into a pit, from which dirty water will be taken outside the building. For this purpose, a clay castle is installed in the underground of the leaking structure with a slope towards the drainage pit. Clay can be replaced with concrete, but it is too expensive.

An underground floor that does not leak can be filled with expanded clay insulation. There should be a 15-centimeter ventilation gap between the expanded clay and the logs. In the washing compartment, a pit is made near the wall. The walls and bottom of this water intake are compacted and coated with clay. From the pit, the waste collected in it must be discharged outside, for which a pipe with a cross-section of at least 15 cm in size is laid.

Installation of the log system

Constructing leaky floors in wooden bath, the logs are laid horizontally on prepared places protected by waterproofing. For floors that do not leak, it is necessary to form a slope, for the purpose of which the cutting in the joist on the side directed to the place of waste collection is increased by 2-3mm. The result is the required slope of 10º.

The level of the foundation under the sauna stove is brought to the level of the future floor after installing the logs before laying the flooring.

The boards of the leaking floor are laid on the installed joists without nailing them. Floorboards of a non-leaking design are nailed with two nails at an angle of 45º, but first a subfloor is laid from low-grade boards and equipped with insulation. The groove of the tongue-and-groove flooring board is directed inside the bathhouse.

Initially, it is better not to nail the floorboards of a non-leaking floor to the joists, but only to “bait” them. After finishing all the work on finishing the bathhouse, you need to dry it, and then adjust and finally nail the boards.

Along the perimeter, the bath floor is finished with a plinth. It must be installed so that moisture flowing from the walls does not get under the slats. That is, the wall cladding should “lie” on the baseboard and rest tightly against it without gaps.

The nuances of installing concrete floors

According to tradition, before pouring, you need to make a pit and equip it with a pipe communicating with the drain. Then the concrete floor in the bathhouse is arranged according to the above scheme, in the description of which some specific features of the construction of floors in a concrete bathhouse were not mentioned:

If sewer system monolithic floor discharges wastewater into the ground under the bathhouse, it is necessary to make vents from asbestos pipes in the base of the bathhouse. These holes are necessary to remove the negative odor that will inevitably appear over time.
If wastewater will be discharged through a pipe to a sewerage facility, the receiving edge of the pipe must be equipped with a shutter. An ingenious folk shutter is a rubber ball that floats up and falls onto a pipe; factory-made devices are also suitable.

IN brief description waterproofing was not mentioned in the construction of a monolithic floor. You need to protect it from moisture with an insulating layer on all sides. Bitumen, polyethylene film, roofing felt, etc. can be used as an insulator.

Concrete floors belong to the category of “cold” structures. To the feet of lovers bath procedures not to freeze, they knock together portable wooden gratings. They are taken outside to dry and brought in before the next visit.

The described common schemes generally introduce how to make floors in a bathhouse. This is not a strict guide, but just a design principle - general recommendations that the owner of the building must refine and improve in relation to his property. Even if you don’t want to build the floor yourself, design differences and each owner needs to know the specifics so that the bathhouse brings only spiritual pleasure, and does not “strain” with endless problems.