Types of textile threads. Textile thread

The basic element of fabric or knitted fabric is thread. According to their structure, textile threads are divided into yarn, filament yarn and monofilament. These threads are called primary(Fig. 6).

Yarn called a textile thread consisting of more or less straightened fibers of limited length, connected by twisting during the spinning process. Yarn happens: simple; shaped having periodically repeating noticeable thinning or thickening in different sections of the length; reinforced, consisting of a core thread entwined along its entire length with fibers or threads of another type.

Complex threads consist of a number of longitudinally folded elementary threads, connected by twisting (chemical threads) or gluing (raw silk).

Monofilament is a single thread that does not divide in the longitudinal direction without destruction, suitable for direct use in the production of textile materials.

Processing of primary threads allows you to significantly change their appearance and properties and obtain twisted and textured threads, which are called secondary threads .

Twisted threads consist of several longitudinally folded primary threads, connected by twisting into one. They have greater strength than primary threads and greater stability of other properties.

Twisted threads include twisted yarn and twisted filament threads.

Twisted yarn can be single-twist, obtained by twisting two, three or more yarns of the same length in one step, and multi-twist, obtained as a result of two or more successive twisting processes. So, to obtain double-twisted yarn, first some of the threads are twisted, and then, after folding them, they are twisted a second time.

In any of these cases you can get:

plain twisted yarn if individual folded threads, fed with the same tension, form a twisted thread of a homogeneous structure along its entire length;

fancy twisted yarn, consisting of a core thread wrapped around a surge (or effective) thread that is longer than the core thread. The latter forms spirals, knots of various shapes and sizes, ring-shaped loops, etc. on the yarn (Fig. 7). Fixing loops, knots and other effects on the core thread is carried out by a fastening thread fed into the torsion zone at the speed of the core thread. The use of shaped twist threads makes it possible to obtain fabrics with a beautiful external effect;

reinforced, having a core (single yarn, twisted yarn, filament thread, etc.), enveloped in different fibers (cotton, wool, flax, various chemical fibers) or threads firmly connected to the core due to twisting.

Twisted filament threads, similar to twisted yarn, can be single-twisted or multi-twisted. In this case, it is possible to obtain simple complex twisted threads, shaped and combined.

According to the degree of twist, twisted threads of weak or flat twist (up to 230 twist/m) are distinguished, used in weaving as weft threads; medium twist threads - muslin (230-900 cr./m), used as the main threads in the production of fabrics; high, or crepe, twist - crepe (up to 2500 cr./m), which is most often produced from raw silk or chemical filament threads. Fabrics made from crepe threads have a beautiful fine-grained matte surface, i.e. have a crepe effect. In addition, such fabrics are stiffer and more elastic, which reduces their wrinkling.

According to the direction of twist, which characterizes the direction of the turns of the twisted thread, a distinction is made between right-hand twist threads (designation Z) and left-hand twist threads (designation S, Fig. 8).

The properties of twisted yarns and filament yarns are greatly influenced by the combination of the twist direction of the primary yarn and the direction of subsequent twists. Best properties have twisted threads in which the directions of the primary twist and subsequent twists do not coincide (Z/S or S/Z). During the final twist in the direction opposite to the primary one, the component threads untwist until they are secured by the retwisted threads. Thanks to this, they form a dense thread of round shape, uniform in thickness. As a result, the twisted thread gains greater strength, and products made from it gain greater wear resistance.

Textured are called threads, the appearance, structure and properties of which are changed by physical-mechanical, physical-chemical and other treatments. The threads have increased volume, loose structure, increased porosity and extensibility. These features are a consequence of the increased tortuosity of the elements of their structure. Textured yarns include textured (high bulk) yarns and textured filament yarns.

High-volume yarn with increased elongation (30% or more) is obtained from synthetic multi-shrink staple fibers. High-shrinkage fibers, highly stretched during manufacturing, are shortened by steaming and, through friction, impart a wave-like crimp to low-shrinkage fibers, increasing the porosity, thickness and volume of the yarn.

However, high-volume yarn finds less use in industry than textured filament yarns. There are three main methods for producing textured yarns.

The first method, thermomechanical, consists in imparting crimp to smooth complex synthetic threads by intensive twisting, fixing the twist using heat treatment, followed by unwinding. In this way, highly tensile threads are obtained. Threads obtained in this way from nylon complex threads are called elastic. The high reversible stretchability of the elastic makes it possible to produce products that should fit the human body well (socks, swimsuits, etc.). Textured yarns made from polyamide filament yarns are called Meron , from polyester - melanoma .

The second method, the method of physical modification, is to impart zigzag crimp and looseness to smooth thermoplastic filament threads by pressing (corrugating) them in special chambers followed by heat treatment. The threads obtained in this way are classified as high-tensile threads.

The textured thread obtained by crimping is called corrugation. It is used in the production of knitted fabrics for outerwear, various dress and suit fabrics.

The third method, aerodynamic, is to impart looseness and fluffiness to chemical threads of any kind by exposing them to a turbulent air flow in a loose state. This is how threads of normal extensibility are obtained. This method can produce combined and shaped textured threads from primary threads. different types. Such threads obtained from polyamide are called aeron. They are used to produce high-quality dress, suit and shirt fabrics.

Based on their fibrous composition, threads are classified into homogeneous, mixed, heterogeneous, mixed-heterogeneous and combined.

Homogeneous are: yarn consisting of fibers of the same type (cotton, flax, wool, silk, chemical fibers); complex threads consisting of elementary threads of the same type; monofilament; twisted threads (twisted cotton yarn, twisted viscose thread, etc.); textured threads (elastic from nylon thread, melan from lavsan thread).

Mixed yarn is a yarn consisting of a mixture of fibers of different origins, evenly distributed over the entire cross-section along the yarn (for example, from a mixture of cotton and lavsan fiber, wool and nylon fiber, etc.).

Twisted threads can be heterogeneous, containing homogeneous threads of different types (for example, wool yarn twisted with nylon filament thread), and mixed-heterogeneous (for example, half-woolen yarn made from a mixture of cotton and wool, twisted with nylon filament thread).

Textured threads are combined, containing different types of textured threads and ordinary chemical filament threads (for example, a combined textured tacon thread consists of a textured acetate thread twisted with a regular nylon filament thread).

According to finishing and coloring, textile threads are: harsh - without finishing; bleached; plain painted; sour; boiled; melange - from a mixture of colored fibers; mulated - from two or more multi-colored fibers; shiny, matte. The finishing and coloring of textile threads depends on their fibrous composition and structure.

End of work -

This topic belongs to the section:

General information about fibers. Classification of fibers. Basic properties of fibers and their dimensional characteristics

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Lecture 1
Introduction. Fibrous materials 1. Goals and objectives of the course “Materials Science of Garment Production”. 2. General information about

Cotton fiber
Cotton is the fiber that covers the seeds. annual plant cotton Cotton is a heat-loving plant that consumes a large number of moisture. Grows in hot areas. Izv

Natural fibers of animal origin
The main substance that makes up natural fibers animal origin (wool and silk), are animal proteins synthesized in nature - keratin and fibroin. Difference in molecular structure

Natural silk
Natural silk is the name given to thin continuous threads secreted by the glands of silkworm caterpillars when curling the cocoon before pupation. The main industrial value is the silk of domesticated mulberry

B. Chemical fibers
The idea of creating chemical fibers was embodied in late XIX V. thanks to the development of chemistry. The prototype for the process of producing chemical fibers was the formation of silkworm thread

Man-made fibers
Artificial fibers include fibers made from cellulose and its derivatives. These are viscose, triacetate, acetate fibers and their modifications. Viscose fiber is produced from celluloses

Synthetic fibers
Polyamide fibers. Nylon fiber, which is most widely used, is obtained from processed products coal and oil. Under a microscope, polyamide fibers are

Inorganic fibers
In addition to those already listed, there are fibers made from natural inorganic compounds. They are divided into natural and chemical. Natural inorganic fibers include asbestos - thin fiber

Basic Spinning Processes
The fibrous mass of natural fibers, after collection and primary processing, enters the spinning mill. Here, relatively short fibers are used to produce a continuous, strong thread - yarn. This p

Weaving production
Fabric is a textile fabric formed by interlacing two mutually perpendicular systems of threads on a loom. The process of creating fabric is called weaving

Fabric finishing
Fabrics removed from the loom are called gray cloth or gray cloth. They contain various impurities and contaminants, have an unsightly appearance and are unsuitable for the manufacture of garments.

Cotton fabrics
During cleaning and preparation, cotton fabrics are subjected to acceptance and sorting, singeing, desizing, bleaching (bleaching), mercerization, and napping. Cleaning and

Linen fabrics
Cleaning and preparation of linen fabrics is usually carried out in the same way as in cotton production, but more carefully, repeating the operations several times. This is due to the fact that flaxseed

Wool fabrics
Wool fabrics They are divided into combed (firestone) and horse-drawn. They differ from each other in appearance. Combed fabrics are thin, with a clear weave pattern. Cloth - more thick

Natural silk
Cleaning and preparation of natural silk is carried out in the following order: acceptance and sorting, singeing, boiling, bleaching, revitalizing bleached fabrics. When when

Chemical fiber fabrics
Fabrics made from artificial and synthetic fibers do not have natural impurities. They may contain mainly easily washable substances, such as dressing, soap, mineral oil, etc. Eye method

Fibrous composition of fabrics
For the manufacture of clothing, fabrics made from natural (wool, silk, cotton, linen), artificial (viscose, polynose, acetate, copper-ammonium, etc.), synthetic (lavsa) are used.

Methods for determining the fiber composition of fabrics
Organoleptic is a method in which the fibrous composition of tissues is determined using the senses - vision, smell, touch. Evaluate the appearance of the fabric, its softness, creaseability

Weaving fabrics
The location of the warp and weft threads relative to each other and their relationship determine the structure of the fabric. It should be emphasized that the structure of fabrics is influenced by: the type and structure of the warp and weft threads

Fabric finishing
The finishing that gives fabrics a marketable appearance affects such properties as thickness, stiffness, drapability, creasing, breathability, water resistance, shine, shrinkage, fire resistance

Fabric density
Density is an essential indicator of tissue structure. Density determines the weight, wear resistance, breathability, heat-shielding properties, rigidity, and drapability of fabrics. Each of

Phases of tissue structure
When weaving, the warp and weft threads mutually bend each other, resulting in a wavy arrangement. the degree of bending of the warp and weft threads depends on their thickness and rigidity, type

Fabric surface structure
Depending on the structure of the front side, fabrics are divided into smooth, pile, fleecy and felted. Smooth fabrics are those that have a clear weave pattern (calico, chintz, satin). In the process of

Properties of fabrics
Plan: Geometric properties Mechanical properties Physical properties Technological properties of fabrics made from threads and yarns of various types

Geometric properties
These include the length of the fabric, its width, thickness and weight. The length of the fabric is determined by measuring it in the direction of the warp threads. When laying fabric before cutting, the length of the piece

Mechanical properties
During the use of clothing, as well as during processing, fabrics are subjected to various mechanical influences. Under these influences, tissues stretch, bend, and experience friction.

Physical properties
The physical properties of fabrics are divided into hygienic, heat-protective, optical and electrical. Hygienic properties are considered to be the properties of fabrics that significantly affect whom

Wear resistance of fabric
The wear resistance of fabrics is characterized by their ability to withstand destructive factors. In the process of using garments, they are affected by light, sun, moisture, stretching, compression, torsion

Technological properties of fabrics
During the production process and during the use of clothing, such properties of fabrics appear that must be taken into account when designing clothing. These properties significantly influence technologically

Padding materials
5. Adhesive materials. 1. RANGE OF FABRICS Based on the type of raw material, the entire range of fabrics is divided into cotton, linen, wool and silk. Silk includes

Adhesive materials
Semi-rigid interlining fabric with dotted polyethylene coating is a cotton fabric (calico or madapolam) coated on one side with high pressure polyethylene powder

Selection of materials for garments
In the production of garments, a variety of materials are used: fabrics, knitted and non-woven fabrics, duplicated, film materials, natural and artificial fur, natural and art

Product quality
In the manufacture of clothing and other garments, fabrics, knitted and non-woven fabrics, film materials, artificial leather and fur are used. The entire collection of these materials is called assortment

Quality of clothing materials
To make good clothes you need to use high quality materials. What is quality? Product quality is understood as a combination of properties that characterize the degree of suitability

Grade of materials
All materials on final stage production is subject to control. At the same time, the quality level of the material is assessed and the grade of each piece is established. A variety is a gradation of product quality

Fabric grade
Determining the grade of fabrics is of great importance. The fabric grade is determined by a comprehensive method for assessing the quality level. At the same time, deviations in indicators physical and mechanical properties from the norms

Defects in the appearance of fabrics
defect Type of defect Description Stage of production at which the defect Zaso occurs

It is a thin, flexible and durable body of considerable length; used for the manufacture of textile products - fabrics, knitwear, nonwovens and so on. directly or after pre-treatment.

There are textile threads original, primary and secondary. The original textile threads include threads that do not divide in the longitudinal direction without breaking: elementary (chemical, natural, including raw silk, and mineral), monofilament (chemical), as well as narrow strips of paper, film, etc.

Unlike filaments, monofilament directly used for the production of products - thin stockings, nets, etc. To primary textile threads include yarn produced from textile fibers, filament threads consisting of a bundle of (two or more) elementary threads connected by twisting or other means, as well as cut textile threads obtained by twisting strips.

The yarn can be plain, shaped, textured (high volume) and reinforced.

Textile threads are called shaped, the structure of which periodically changes through the formation of thickenings, loops, etc. Textured threads are textile threads whose structure is modified to increase volume or stretchability. Secondary textile threads include twisted threads, usually obtained by twisting several primary ones. Recycled textile threads are also produced textured and shaped.

In addition, textile threads can be homogeneous in composition - from one type of material (for example, cotton yarn, wool, viscose, etc.), mixed - from a mixture of fibers (linen-lavsan yarn, etc.) and heterogeneous (twisted acetate-viscose filament threads). Textile threads obtained by twisting yarn and filament threads are called combined.

A wide variety of textile threads is achieved by using additional operations and processes during their production (for example, singeing, dyeing, bleaching). Textile threads are also used for making faux fur, duplicate materials; Some types of textile threads are used to produce sewing threads, filters for the chemical industry, ropes, etc.

Lit. see under Art. Textile fibers. G. N. Kukin
Source: Great Soviet Encyclopedia

Fiber classification

Taking into account classification characteristics fibers are divided into:

natural

chemical.

TO natural fibers include fibers of natural (plant, animal, mineral) origin: cotton, linen, wool and silk. Chemical fibers are fibers manufactured in factories. In this case, chemical fibers are divided into artificial and synthetic.

Man-made fibers obtained from natural high-molecular compounds that are formed during the development and growth of fibers (cellulose, fibroin, keratin). Fabrics made from artificial fibers include: acetate, viscose, staple, modal. These fabrics are highly breathable, remain dry for a very long time and are pleasant to the touch. Today, all these fabrics are actively used by manufacturers of hosiery products, and, thanks to the latest technologies, can replace natural ones.

Synthetic fibers are obtained by synthesis from natural low-molecular compounds (phenol, ethylene, acetylene, methane, etc.) as a result of polymerization or polycondensation reactions, mainly from products of oil, coal and natural gases.

Types of threads

Fibers are the basis for the manufacture of filaments, which, depending on the method of joining, are then produced into many other filaments. Distinguish the following types threads:

single– a thread that does not divide longitudinally without breaking and can be directly used in the production of textiles (often called monofilament). Monofilaments are obtained from synthetic fibers, they usually have round section, and, depending on the thickness, monofilaments can be used in the production of light, thin fabrics for blouses and heavy ones for cushioning materials.

comprehensive- a thread consisting of two or more elementary threads connected to each other by twisting or gluing

twisted- a thread obtained by twisting two or more filament threads, yarn, or both together

yarn- a thread consisting of fibers interconnected by twisting during the spinning process.

Question 1. The concept of textile threads. Classification of textile threads.

Question 2. The essence of the processes for producing yarn and threads.

Question 3. General requirements for textile threads. Structure and properties of textile threads.

Question 1. The concept of textile threads. Classification of textile threads.

Textile thread is a flexible, extended and durable body of unlimited length, with small transverse dimensions in relation to the length, used for the manufacture of textile products.

Recently, in connection with our country’s entry into the World trade organization On the Russian market of the textile and clothing-knitting industry, problems have arisen due to competition between Russian manufacturers and importers. Foreign manufacturers have replaced domestic ones in this sector of the market. The main reason was that in recent decades the range of textile and sewing-knitted materials has practically not been updated.

At the same time, Russian clothing enterprises are placing increasingly high demands on the quality and variety of threads, yarns, and fabrics, which is determined by the wishes of consumers of the final products. In an effort to solve this problem, industry is developing and is already implementing modern market a new range of textile materials based on new types of yarn and threads:

100% made of chemical fibers;

Blended, using natural and chemical fibers of the new generation;

Shaped, with various effects;

Combined.

The range of textile threads used in textile production is wide and varied, and they are classified according to a number of characteristics: composition of raw materials, production method, structure, type of finishing and purpose.

By fiber composition:

Homogeneous threads consist of one type of fiber (cotton, wool, viscose, etc.).

Heterogeneous threads consist of different types of fibers. In the manufacture of heterogeneous threads, different types of fibers can be used in a mixture (for example, wool + lavsan, wool + viscose + nitron, etc.), as well as by combining several threads of different raw materials into one thread (for example, nylon thread and viscose threads are connected into one thread). The name of heterogeneous threads is determined by the name of the most valuable component, usually natural fiber.

According to the production method, textile threads are divided into:

threads obtained during the spinning process (yarn);

threads obtained in other industries (non-spun), which according to their fibrous composition are divided into silk (natural silk), artificial and synthetic.

There are:

An elementary thread is a single thread that does not divide in the longitudinal direction without destruction.

A filament thread is a textile thread consisting of two or more elementary textile threads.

Based on their structure, textile threads are divided intoprimary and secondary

Primary threads are divided into classes:

1. Yarn

- simple: has the same structure along its entire length;

- shaped: has various local effects (yarn with neps, with roving effect, retrace);

- textured: obtained from multi-shrink polyacrylonitrile fibers.

2. Complex threads Depending on the degree of twist, they are divided into:

- flat twist threads: have 100-230 kr./m, used in the production of smooth fabrics;

- medium twist threads: have up to 900 kr./m, are used in the production of low-density, elastic fabrics;

- strong twist threads: have 1500-2000 kr./m, are used for the production of crepe fabrics.

3. Monofilament: They differ in chemical composition, thickness, and cross-sectional type.

4. Split threads: obtained by cutting film materials and foil into narrow strips.

Secondary threads are divided into classes:

1. Wire (consist of several primary threads, folded longitudinally and not twisted; 2. Twisted threads (consist of several longitudinally folded primary threads, connected into one by twisting) are divided into subclasses: - simple(have the same structure along the entire length); - shaped(have local effects on the surface obtained due to different lengths of mutually twisted threads): spiral (winding), knotted, looped, with twists, covered (retraced), combined (knots and spirals, pongee), with roving effect, with external winding , chenille;

- reinforced(consist of a core and an outer shell); - textured threads are divided into highly tensile, tensile, non-extensible and combined: elastic, maron, corrugated; crimped, obtained by dissolving heat-treated knitted fabric; crimped ones obtained by passing them through the teeth of heated gears; with tortuosity of alternating direction (ejilon); looped (single, combined, shaped);

- combined(consist of twisted threads of different types, classes).

Depending on the finishing produce the following types of threads :

1. Cotton yarn : - harsh (unfinished); - singed (to give greater smoothness); - mercerized (treatment with an alkaline solution followed by washing with water to obtain shine and greater strength; - melange (from differently colored fibers); - floss (from threads of different colors);

Painted; - with a printed design. 2. Linen yarn: - harsh; - severely boiled; - severely sour (processed in alkali and acid solutions, respectively) of varying degrees of whiteness; - melange; - floss;

Painted. 3. Wool yarn : - harsh; - melange;

Floss; - painted. 4. Raw silk: - harsh; - boiled. 5. Chemical threads: - harsh (shiny and matte); - painted.

The “Chenier” finishing effect is known, when a bobbin of yarn is dyed from one end and transverse colored strokes are obtained.

The modern range of cotton yarn includes such names as: “Iris”, “Garus”, “Cotton”, “Natural”, etc.

The range of wool yarn is represented by the following names: “Village”, “Malva”, “Argentine wool”, “Premiere”, etc.

Artificial yarn includes: “Natural viscose”.

The range of synthetic yarn on the modern market is represented by such names as: “Acrylic”, “Charm of the Season” and “Spring Thick” (100% acrylic), “April”, “David”, “Luna” from 100% polyamide, “Tarzan” from 100% dralon (special fiber developed by the Bayer concern, ultra-strong and resistant to various types of influences), etc.

The following types are classified as heterogeneous yarn:

1). Cotton blend, which is currently produced from cotton mixed with artificial and synthetic fibers. The most common types of such yarn are: “Inspiration” (cotton 80%, viscose 15%, polyamide 5%); “Cotton with viscose” (cotton 50%, viscose 50%); "Casper" (55% polyamide, 45% cotton), etc.

2). Mixed wool is produced from two or more components, most often from a mixture of wool with viscose and synthetic fibers, and the percentage of chemical fibers in the mixture can vary. The modern range of mixed wool yarn is represented by such names as: “Wool with acrylic” (50% wool, 50% acrylic); “Wool with viscose” (50% wool, 50% viscose); “Nymph” (35% wool, 65% acrylic); “Aelita” (60% wool, 30% cotton, 10% viscose); “Chrysanthemum” (15% mohair, 25% wool, 60% acrylic), etc.

3). Mixed linen yarn is currently produced from flax, artificial and synthetic fibers - these are types such as: “For weaving”, 50% flax, 50% polyester; “Natural” 75% linen, 20% viscose, 5% polyamide.

4). The range of yarn from a mixture of chemical fibers produced at modern enterprises is also quite wide: “Modern” (98% acrylic, 2% polyamide); “Pleasant” (60% acrylic, 40% viscose); “Nadina” (83% viscose, 17% elastane); “Ilona” (26% viscose, 18% dralon, 56% polyamide), etc.

Textile threads are classified according to their purpose:

for weaving production;

for knitting production;

for threads and thread products;

curtain-tulle production;

carpets and carpet products;

bag and rope products.

There are three main spinning methods:

1. Carded;

2. Combed;

3. Hardware.

Yarn carded spinning is the most common. It is made from medium-fiber cotton and chemical fibers. The carded spinning process consists of the operations of opening and scuffing, carding, leveling and drawing, pre-spinning and spinning.

Cotton, arriving at the factory in bales, is transferred to the bale opener to loosen the compressed layers, and then to the loosening-racking unit. Under the impact of beating and ruffling, the cotton is divided into small shreds and cleared of large impurities. Small impurities and dust are removed by mesh drums, to which the cotton is sucked by air draft.

On carding machines, cotton scraps are combed using needle-shaped (carded) surfaces. At the same time, impurities remaining after scuffing, fibers tangled into small shreds, and partially short fibers are released into the noil, and a rope called sliver is formed from the combed cotton. The slivers from the carding machines are transferred to Draw machines. To equalize the thickness of the ribbons, as well as when producing mixed yarn from cotton and chemical fibers, several ribbons are combined into one. In the drawing apparatus, the resulting tape is thinned, the fibers in it are straightened and oriented.

During the process of pre-spinning on roving machines, the slivers are stretched, become thinner, and the fibers in them are even more straightened and oriented. To fasten the fibers together, they are slightly twisted, forming a roving. During final spinning on ring spinning machines, the roving is thinned by a drafting apparatus to the required linear density and, twisted into yarn, is wound in the shape of a cob on a cartridge mounted on a spindle.

The most widespread are spindleless rotor spinning machines (SD). Such a machine works on the principle of mechanical and aerodynamic influence on the fibers. As a result of mechanical action, the fibers supplied in the form of a tape are separated from the total mass by the combing drum set. The air flow carries the fibers along the channel into the spinning chamber rotating at a frequency of 30,000 min -1. By centrifugal force, the fibers are thrown against the walls of the chamber and are grouped in a trough in the form of a fibrous ribbon, which twists and exits the chamber as formed yarn. The yarn is wound onto packages whose weight reaches 1200-1500 g. The speed of yarn production is 2-2.5 times higher than on ring spinning machines.

The card system processes medium- and long-staple cotton, both in pure form and mixed with chemical fibers. The yarn is obtained with a thickness of 83.3-11.8 tex.

Yarn combed spinning It is produced from long-fiber cotton, flax, long, fine and coarse wool, as well as waste from sericulture, cocoon reeling, silk spinning and silk weaving.

Through the combed spinning system, the fibers travel the longest path. After scuffing and carding, the fibers are prepared for combing, followed by the combing process itself and again leveling and drawing, pre-spinning and spinning. The purpose of combing for all fibers is the same: to separate short fibers from the fibrous mass and to straighten and orient long ones well.

Combed yarn has the most regular structure. Fibers, well combed, evenly distributed along the length and cross-section, form a dense thread, uniform in thickness, less fleecy than carded.

Yarn hardware spinning It is produced from short-staple cotton, wool and chemical fibers added to them, as well as spinning waste and regenerated fibers. Mixing fibers of different types is widely used in machine spinning.

The hardware spinning process is the shortest. After loosening, the fibrous mass goes to carding, which is carried out on two or three carding machines connected in series. On the last carding machine, the web is divided into strips, which are rolled (knitted) into roving. Yarn is formed from the roving on spinning machines.

Hardware yarn is the least uniform in thickness; the fibers in it are almost not straightened and are not oriented enough.

By spinning method cotton yarn is divided into carded, combed and hardware; wool - into hardware (fine-wool and coarse-wool), combed (fine-combed and coarse-combed) and half-combed; flax - wet-spun flax, dry- and wet-spun comb.

A technology has been proposed for modifying short flax fiber from flax scuffing waste into a cotton- and wool-like form, based on the use of simplified fiber preparation operations to obtain a fibrous tape and a new method of de-fibering by high-speed double-sided scuffing. When implemented, a cumulative effect is formed that provides sufficient productivity, relatively low cost of the fiber and its quality in terms of geometric properties.

Monofilament is a single-strand thread that does not divide in the longitudinal direction without destruction, suitable for direct use in textiles.

A filament thread consists of two or more elementary threads joined together by twisting or gluing. A filament is a single thread that is integral part complex thread or tow. The filament cannot be used as a monofilament.

Yarn is a thread consisting of fibers connected by twisting or gluing.

Twisted thread is a thread twisted from two or more filament threads, yarns, or both.

Shaped thread - a thread that has periodically repeating local changes in structure (nodules, loops, thickenings, etc.) and color.

Reinforced thread is a special type of non-uniform threads obtained by wrapping a core component with forced threads or fibers.

Textured thread is a thread whose structure has been modified by additional processing to increase specific volume or elongation.

Based on the type of raw material used, yarn is divided into homogeneous and mixed, and threads into homogeneous and heterogeneous. Homogeneous threads and yarn consist of fibers of the same type of raw material, mixed yarn - from a mixture of fibers of different types of raw materials, heterogeneous thread - from threads various types raw materials.

Threads and yarn are made from natural and chemical (artificial and synthetic) fibers. Natural fiber is of natural origin (plant, animal, mineral). Chemical fibers are made from natural or synthetic high molecular weight substances. These include artificial fibers obtained from natural high-molecular substances. Synthetic fibers are made from synthetic high molecular weight substances.

Cotton, linen, wool yarn and natural silk are produced from natural fibers.

Cotton yarn is produced in gray, dyed and melange (obtained from dyed cotton).

Linen yarn is produced using a wet and dry spinning system. Yarn made from flax fiber, depending on the finishing method, can be raw, boiled, bleached and dyed.

Wool yarn is produced using combed and machine spinning systems. Depending on the linear density of the wool fiber, combed yarn is divided into fine-combed, coarse-combed and semi-combed, and hardware yarn is divided into fine-woven and coarse-woven. A significant part wool yarn is twisted in two folds.

Natural silk is obtained by unwinding the cocoons of mulberry and oak silkworms in the form of complexly glued threads (raw silk). In addition, they produce twisted natural silk with a different number of twists: with regular twist - up to 600 kr/m and crepe twist - up to 3200 kr/m. Silk yarn is made from waste obtained from processing natural silk.

Man-made fibers include viscose, acetate, triacetate and copper-ammonia. Artificial fibers are also used in pure form and mixed with natural ones.

Synthetic fibers, depending on the chemical structure, are divided into several types: polyamide (nylon, anide, enanth), polyester (lavsan), polyacrylonitrile (nitrone), polyolefin (polypropylene, polyethylene), etc., from which threads and staple fiber are made to produce homogeneous and mixed yarn. Threads made from synthetic fibers have increased strength, resistance to abrasion and repeated loads.

Polyamide and polyester fibers, which have low thermoplasticity, are more often than other fibers used to make textured threads, which are characterized by increased bulk, fluffiness and softness. The structure of textured threads has been changed mechanically(twisting, pressing, corrugating, knitting) and fixed by heat treatment. Textured threads include: elastic (spirally crimped), corrugated (flat crimped), ajilon (spatially crimped), taslan (looped), as well as melan, maron, etc.

For the production of textile materials, yarn, filament threads and monofilament threads are used.

Yarn called a thread (GOST 13784-94), consisting of fibers of limited length (staple), connected by twisting. Complex thread(multifilament) consists of two or more elementary filaments. Monofilament(monofilament thread) is a filament thread suitable for direct use in textiles. Yarn is formed from fiber mass during the spinning process. There are three main methods of spinning: carded, combed and machine.

Carded yarn (carded yarn) is the most common. It is made from medium-fiber cotton and chemical fibers. The carded spinning process consists of the operations of opening and scuffing, carding, leveling and drawing, pre-spinning and spinning. Cotton arrives at the factory in bales. The compressed fibrous mass is loosened here in special loosening-scraping units into small shreds and cleaned of large impurities. Small impurities and dust are removed by mesh drums, to which the cotton is sucked by air draft. On carding machines, cotton scraps are combed using needle-shaped (carded) surfaces. The combed cotton is formed into a rope called sliver. The tapes are transferred to the draw frames. To equalize the thickness of the ribbons, as well as when producing mixed yarn from cotton and chemical fibers, several ribbons are combined into one. In the drawing apparatus, the resulting tape is thinned, the fibers are straightened and oriented along the tape. During the pre-spinning process on roving frames, the slivers are stretched and become thinner. To fasten the fibers together, they are slightly twisted, and a roving is formed. During final spinning on ring spinning machines, the roving is thinned by a drafting apparatus to the required linear density and, twisted into yarn, is wound in the shape of a cob on a cartridge mounted on a spindle. Carded yarn from ring spinning machines consists of relatively straightened and oriented fibers . Each fiber does not lie in one layer of yarn, but moves from the center to the periphery and back, located along helical lines of variable pitch and radius. The areas of fibers located in the outer layers of the yarn are more stressed than the areas in the center, which creates an imbalance in the structure of the yarn.

Spindleless machines are widespread rotor spinning. Such machines operate on the principle of mechanical and aerodynamic influence on the fibers. Rotor-spun yarn differs in structure from ring-spun yarn. The density of the fibers in the cross-section of such yarn is not the same: the high density of the central layer (core), in which the fibers are compressed by twist, decreases towards the outer layers. Uneven distribution of fibers in the yarn leads to a decrease in its strength.

Combed yarn (combed yarn) It is produced from long-fiber cotton, flax, long thin semi-coarse and coarse wool, as well as from waste from sericulture, cocoon reeling, silk spinning and silk weaving. Through the combed spinning system, the fibers travel the longest path. After scuffing and carding, the fibers are prepared for combing, followed by the combing process itself and again leveling and drawing, pre-spinning and spinning. The purpose of combing for all fibers is the same: to remove short fibers from the fiber mass, straighten and orient long ones. Combed yarn has the most regular structure. Fibers, carefully combed, evenly distributed along the length and cross-section, form a dense thread, uniform in thickness, less fleecy than carded. Since the fibers in combed yarn are longer than in carded yarn, the degree of their fastening is correspondingly greater. Therefore, the strength of combed yarn is higher than carded yarn of the same origin.

Hardware spun yarn (hardware yarn) produced from short-staple cotton, wool and chemical fibers added to them, as well as spinning waste and regenerated fibers (turned into fiber from flaps). Mixing fibers of different types is widespread in machine spinning. The hardware spinning process is the shortest. After loosening, the fibrous mass goes to carding, which is carried out on two or three carding machines connected in series. On the last carding machine, the web is divided into strips, which are rolled (knitted) into roving. Yarn is formed from the roving on spinning machines. Hardware yarn is the least uniform in thickness; the fibers in it are almost not straightened and are not oriented enough. Loose, weakly twisted hardware yarn gives products made from it good heat-shielding properties.

According to the fiber composition, the yarn can be homogeneous and mixed. Homogeneous yarn consists of fibers of the same nature (cotton, wool, linen, chemicals of the same type), mixed yarn - from a mixture of fibers of different natures. When connecting fibers of different types, they are selected in such a way that the negative qualities of one fiber are compensated by the positive qualities of the other.

Yarn is classified according to its structure single-strand, caned and twisted.

Spun yarn consists of two or more strands folded lengthwise and not twisted together. Spun yarn is widely used in knitting production. Single-strand yarn is produced on spinning machines by right- and left-hand twisting of elementary fibers. When the spindle or spinning chamber rotates clockwise, right-twist yarn Z is formed (Fig. 1a), when rotated counterclockwise, left-twist yarn S is formed (Fig. 1, b).

Twisted yarn is produced on twisting machines and, according to the method of twisting, is divided into single-twist, multi-twist, shaped, reinforced, textured And combined.

Single twist yarn obtained by twisting two or more threads of the same length. She has smooth surface. Single twist yarns are often not balanced enough in twist. When unwinding from the package, it can form twists and loops. Twist-balanced yarn is obtained by alternating the directions of spinning and final twists (Z/S or S/Z) at a certain ratio of their values. During the final twist in the direction opposite to the spinning direction, the component threads are untwisted until they are secured by turns of re-twist. Thanks to this, when connecting, they form a dense, round-shaped thread, evenly filled with fibers. Arranged in spiral turns, the constituent threads bend around each other, as a result of which the fibers acquire additional strength, the yarn acquires greater strength, and products made from it acquire greater wear resistance.

Multi-twist yarn is obtained as a result of two or more successive torsion processes. Most often, two single-twist threads are connected by twisting them in the direction opposite to the direction of the pre-twist.

Fancy yarn (fancy yarn) consists of a core thread, which is wrapped around a surge (effective) thread longer length than the core one. The surge thread can form evenly spaced spirals along the length of the core thread (Fig. 3a). The spiral effect can also be obtained by twisting a roving with a linear density of about 1000 tex with single-strand yarn with a linear density of 25...30 tex (Fig. 3, b). The intermittent effect is formed in knotted yarn (Fig. 3, c) with dense, evenly distributed round or oblong single-color or multi-color (with several spun-on threads) knots and in pongee yarn (Fig. 3, d) with uneven loose knots. Fancy yarn from fibers of all types is widely used in the production of dress, suit, coat fabrics and knitted fabrics. It allows you to produce spectacular materials.

Reinforced yarn has a core (most often made of complex chemical threads), entwined on the outside with cotton, wool or staple chemical fibers. The outer layer fibers must be attached to the core and not move along it. The strength of attachment of the outer layer fibers is determined by their length, strength, coefficient of friction and twist.

Textured yarn has increased volume, porosity, fluffiness, softness and high extensibility. Yarn of this structure can be obtained:

· by shortening high-shrinkage fibers;

· an aerodynamic method, in which the yarn enters a pneumatic nozzle, where it is exposed to turbulent air flows, loosening its structure.

Combination yarn can be elastic and fleecy. Elastic yarn is formed by twisting a core complex synthetic thread with a cotton or woolen sliver. During subsequent heat treatment in a heat chamber heated electrically, the core thread shrinks. By twisting two such threads, a combined yarn is obtained.

Fleecy yarn is produced using an aerodynamic method. When exposed to cotton or wool fibers with a jet compressed air they are entangled with filament synthetic threads, resulting in a fluffy yarn with increased bulk.

Comes directly from manufacturers primary filaments. They consist of parallel or loosely twisted filaments, intertwined during the formation process using compressed air. Such threads have a fairly smooth surface and resemble an ordinary thread with a gentle twist.

Secondary twist threads obtained by twisting two or more primary filament threads. When twisting filament threads of different fibrous compositions, a heterogeneous filament thread is formed. When twisting a filament thread with yarn, twisted composite threads are obtained.

Depending on the degree of twist, there are flat twist threads (up to 230 cr./m), used in knitting production, as well as in the production of lining and some types of dress fabrics, medium twist threads - muslin (230...900 cr./m) , used in the production of dress fabrics, and high-twist crepe threads (1500...2500 cr./m). Threads of high (crepe) twist expand the possibility of obtaining structural effects of fabrics; they are characterized by rigidity and elasticity, which reduces the creasing of fabrics.

Twisted threads, like yarn, come with spiral threads, loops, knots and are widely used in silk weaving in the production of dress and costume fabrics. One of the varieties of complex shaped twist threads is mooskrep, which is a crepe twist thread entwined with a flat twist thread that forms small loops. Wool-like fabrics are obtained from mooskrepa.

Textured threads differ from smooth ones in volume, looseness and fluffiness. Due to their crimp, their transverse dimensions compared to the dimensions of their constituent threads are significantly increased. Formed between the threads air gaps improve the heat-shielding properties of products made from them. Textured threads are deformed under the influence of external forces due to the straightening of the curls. Stable crimp causes them to quickly restore their original shape after removing the load. According to the classification proposed by F.Kh. Sadykova, textured filament threads are divided into three types according to their structure: high (100% or more), increased (up to 100%) and normal (up to 30%) elongation.

High-tensile threads include threads obtained by knitting and unraveling and elastic threads. The knitting-unraveling method produces threads with flat crimp. The process of their manufacture consists of the operations of knitting a tubular tape, fixing it in a curved position by heat treatment and unraveling the tape.

Elastic threads are formed from two polyamide thermoplastic threads with high right and left twist. After the spiral arrangement of turns is fixed by heat treatment, the threads are untwisted, spliced and slightly twisted together. A thread with spiral convolutions is formed, some of which twist and loop (Fig. 4, A).

High tensile threads include maron from polyamide threads and melan, belan made of polyester threads having a spiral crimp. They are obtained in the same way as described for elastic threads, but to reduce elongation they are subjected to additional processing in a heat chamber or autoclave. Externally, the threads are maron and belan (Fig. 4, b) differ little from elastic threads.

Aeron, produced by an aerodynamic method, belongs to threads of normal extensibility. A complex thread in an untensioned state is exposed to turbulent flows, which separate it into individual elementary threads. As they bend, they form tiny loops intertwined with each other (Fig. 4, V).

Combined threads consist of filament threads and yarns, or of monofilaments and yarns, or of filament threads, differing in chemical composition or structure, or from yarns of different fibrous composition and structure.

Complex threads from natural silk can be obtained by gluing and twisting. When cocoon threads are glued together with sericin, raw silk is formed when the cocoons are unwound. Twisted natural silk can be obtained by single or double twisting. Like filament yarns made from chemical fibers, twisted natural silk comes in flat twist, medium twist (muslin), high twist (crepe); When twisted twice, a base is formed.

Monofilament can be different thicknesses and have a round, flat or profiled cross-sectional shape. Alunit (Lurex) - ribbons 1...2 mm wide from aluminum foil with multi-colored (usually gold or silver) coatings with polyester film. Alunit is used in fabrics for decorative effect. Its disadvantages include its low strength. Plastilex - ribbons made of polyethylene film, onto which sprayed metal is applied in a vacuum. Plastilex is stronger than alunit and has some elasticity. Metanit - metallized threads rectangular section. They are used to produce dress and decorative fabrics with a shimmering shine.

Main characteristics of the structure and properties of textile threads. The main indicators of the properties of textile threads include linear density, breaking force And elongation at break, number of torsions And twist factor, twist amount. Has also great importance unevenness of indicators according to the listed characteristics.

There are linear densities actual, nominal, nominal-calculated and normal.

Actual linear density threads T f found by weighing them and subsequent calculations using the formula:

Tf = 1000Σm l n,

where 1000 is the coefficient for converting meters to kilometers;

Σm - sum of masses of thread segments, g;

l- length of the thread section, m;

P - number of segments.

The linear density of the thread designed for production is called nominal. According to the nominal linear density of the thread Tn calculate the mass of the material. The deviation of the actual linear density of the thread from the nominal one, %, is determined by the formula:

T=100(T f -T n)/ T n;.

For some calculations it is necessary to know the diameter of the thread. Knowing the linear density of the thread (or its number), you can find the diameter of the thread using the formula:

d = A√T/31.6.

Experimentally found coefficients A are given below.

Raw Material Ratio A

cotton................................................... 1.19. ..1.26

linen........................................................ .......... 1.00... 1.19

wool................................................... ......... 1.26... 1.76

viscose........................................................ ................. 1.26

nylon........................................................ ....... 1.19... 1.46

Complex viscose threads........................ 1.03... 1.26

When twisting threads of the same thickness, the nominal linear density of the thread is determined by the formula:

T r =T o n,

Where T 0 - linear density of a single thread, tex; P - number of twisted threads.

When twisting threads various thicknesses The nominal calculated linear density of the thread is determined by the formula:

T r =T 1 +T 2 +…+T n

Since when twisting the component threads are arranged in spiral turns, twisting occurs, i.e. shortening the length of the original thread. Moreover, from threads length l 1 it turns out a twisted thread of length l 2. The amount of twist U is determined by the formula:

U=100(l 1 -l 2) / l 1

As a result of twisting, the linear density of the thread increases. Taking into account the twist, the linear density of the thread is called normal.

The twist of the threads is determined number of torsions (turns) peripheral layer of the thread per unit of its length. When twisting, fibers or threads are arranged along helical lines with a given angle of twist. The greater the torsion angle b, the more strongly the thread is twisted. At the same angle b, the number of twists per unit length of a thick thread is less than that of a thin thread. This is clearly visible in Fig. 2.16, which schematically shows the unfolded turns of the peripheral layer of the thread with diameters d 1 And d2. The higher the step height h 1, or h 2 those less number torsion K per unit length of thread.

Rice. 4. Scheme of deployment of turns of the peripheral layer of thread

The degree of twisting of threads of different linear densities T is characterized by the twist coefficient. The twist coefficient α is calculated using the formula:

where K is the number of twists per 1 m of thread.

At a constant thread density δH, the twist coefficient α is proportional to the tangent of the torsion angle b. The torsion angle b is a universal characteristic of the twist of threads of any linear density T and thread density δ H. The number of twists K is determined by the formula:

K=8911tg b √ δ N /T.

Depending on the purpose of yarn and filament threads, as well as the properties of their constituent fibers, the twist coefficient changes.

With a gentle twist, the thread turns out to be less strong, but softer; with a high twist, it becomes strong and rigid. Under the influence of radial stresses arising during the twisting process, the fibers are compressed more tightly, the diameter of the thread decreases, the friction between the fibers increases and the strength of the yarn increases. Thus, as the twist ratio and twist angle increase, the strength of the yarn increases. However, this occurs up to a certain limit called critical twist. Further twisting leads to a decrease in the strength of the thread due to overstrain of the fibers stretched by twisting.

The main characteristics of the mechanical properties of threads include breaking force Рр - the greatest force, cN, withstood by the thread at the moment of breaking, and breaking elongation - the increment in the length of the thread at the moment of its breaking, expressed in absolute units or percentages. To compare the strength of threads of different thicknesses, the concept of relative breaking force per unit linear density of the thread is introduced:

The resistance of threads to destructive forces is determined by the structure and properties of their constituent fibers: the molecular and supramolecular structure of polymers, the strength of bonds in and between molecular chains, the shape and length of molecules, the degree of their straightening and orientation relative to the fiber axis, as well as the structure of the threads themselves.

The strength and elongation of filament threads depend mainly on the mechanical properties of their constituent elementary threads. However, if the elementary threads are unequally straightened and oriented, have different strength and elongation, then overstresses occur in certain sections of the threads, a stepwise break occurs, which significantly reduces the strength of the threads.

In yarn, fibers of limited length are held by friction, so the strength of the yarn depends not only on the mechanical properties and uniformity of the fibers, but also on the type of their surface, shape and length, degree of orientation, straightening and twisting of the fibers in the yarn. When the yarn breaks, only part of the fibers are torn, the rest are pulled apart. The fiber strength in carded yarn is used by 40..50%, in hardware yarn – by 20..30%. This largely explains the greater strength of filament threads than yarn. The tensile characteristics of yarn and threads (according to F.Kh. Sadykova) are given in table. 1.

Table 1 - Indicators of tensile characteristics of yarn and threads

Control questions

Give the classification of textile fibers and threads.
What fibers are natural?
What fibers are considered artificial?
What supramolecular structures of fiber-forming polymers do you know?
Name the main characteristics of the properties of fibers and threads.
What units of linear density do you know?
What is conditional humidity?
Name the natural fibers based on cellulose.
Name natural fibers, the basis of which are proteins.
How are wool fibers classified based on their structure?
Name the main stages of obtaining chemical fibers and threads.
What types of hydrated cellulose fibers do you know?
What are the structural features of cellulose acetate fibers?
What polymers are used to produce synthetic fibers?
What spinning methods do you know?
What characterizes the degree of twisting of the threads?
What is relative breaking force?