Construction of an interior partition from plasterboard with your own hands. Installation instructions for plasterboard partitions How to build a plasterboard wall with your own

Drywall today is extremely popular among professionals and amateurs, and is increasingly used when installing partitions and cladding walls in apartments and houses. Due to its lightness, the material can be freely used in multi-storey buildings or on the second floor or attic of a private house - this structure will not have a significant load on the floor. Simplicity of installation makes it possible for novice builders to independently install a partition or wall cladding.

A do-it-yourself plasterboard partition can be installed after studying the sequence and rules of the process and becoming familiar with the nuances of working with this material.

It should be noted that plasterboard is used for the installation of both blank walls and partitions with windows various shapes. Its ability to take the desired shape, under correctly created conditions for this, makes it possible to make or arrange windows in partitions of a round or other curvilinear shape.

The ability of plasterboard sheets to undergo planned plastic deformation allows the installation of partitions with voluminous edges and with a device original shelves, which are able to withstand rows of books or the installation of household appliances in them.

Partition with additional functions— shelves for books and household appliances

If previously you had to drag bulky standard furniture into your apartment, today, using plasterboard, you can create exclusive wall options that will immediately perform two functions - a room space divider and a piece of furniture. This results in a double saving of money and space, which is especially important for apartments that are not too spacious.

Materials for installing plasterboard partitions

What do you need to have to create such a partition, besides the basic material - drywall?

All necessary materials- very easy to use and affordable

From additional materials you need very little, and what is very important is that all the necessary components for installing such a wall have a very affordable price.

Another advantage of all materials for creating plasterboard partitions is that they will not pollute the premises of a house or apartment in the way that, for example, concrete mortars can do.

So, if we take into account all the possible options, then to install the partition you will need:

Sobstvobut, GVL themselves. Regular drywall with a thickness of 12 mm - the most optimal option for partitions in rooms with normal humidity. When installing walls that will separate the bathroom, kitchen, or toilet room, you will need moisture resistant drywall, having a soft green color - this is how the manufacturer highlights its functional features. There are other types of drywall from which you can choose the one you need, depending on the location of the partition and its shape.

Drywall brand	Thickness in mm	Size in mm
GKL (regular)	12.5	2500×1200
GKLV (moisture resistant)	12.5	2500×1200
GKLO (fire-resistant)	12.5	2500×1200
GKLO (fire-resistant)	12.5	2600×1200
GKL (straight edge)	12.5	2500×1200
GCR (flexible)	6	2400×1200

Metal profile and wooden bars for the frame, having a width of 75 mm, if between two panels will be installed soundproofing material, and 50 mm if the space between the plasterboard sheets remains hollow or will fit thin insulation. In general, we can say that the width of the profile sets the wall thickness parameter.
Self-tapping screws for metal structures and for wooden parts.
Fiberglass serpyanka mesh for reinforcing joints.
Gypsum-based putty, starting and finishing - for sealing joints and eliminating surface defects.

Can be determined from this table, but experienced builders It is recommended to take it 15% more than calculated.

№	Name of material	Unit	Material consumption rate per 1 sq. m

1.	Drywall	sq.m.	1
2.	Profile CD 60	linear meters	2
3.	Profile UD 27	linear meters	2
4.	U-shaped universal bracket for mounting material on the ceiling	PC.	1.32
5.	Sealing tape	linear m	0.85
6.	Dowel 6/40 mm	PC.	2.2
7.	Self-tapping screw 3.5×9.5 (flea)	PC.	2.7
8.	Self-tapping screw 3.5×25 (for drywall)	PC.	12
9.	Longitudinal connection for CD profile	PC.	0.2
10.	Fiberglass mesh	linear m	1.1
11.	Putty for joints (starter)	kg	0.3
12.	Deep penetration primer	liters	0.1
13.	Putty for the surface of plasterboard sheets (finishing)	kg	1.2

Tools needed for work

When installing a plasterboard partition, you cannot do without some tools, the list of which includes:

A screwdriver is a must, as you will have to tighten a large number of screws, and a regular screwdriver do this work it will be extremely difficult.
A long, preferably metal ruler, for marking and cutting sheets of drywall along it.
A construction square will be needed for marking and for checking the correct installation of parts during installation.
Construction level - to determine the horizontal and vertical planes and frame racks.
A plumb line is necessary to determine the ideal vertical by combining the points marked on the ceiling and floor.
Pencil – for marking.
Metal scissors - used to prepare workpieces of the required length, for cutting notches on a metal profile.
Electric jigsaw - for cutting off the necessary fragments of the bar and cutting plasterboard sheets, especially along curved markings.
Medium width spatula - for sealing joints with putty.
Grater with fine and medium grain sandpaper– for leveling putty on seams and on the surface of gypsum fiber board sheets.
Primer - for processing finished partition before painting.
A knife or hacksaw with a fine tooth for drywall, a construction knife with replaceable blades.
A plane with a beveled blade for cutting chamfers.
It would be nice to have a rivet for fastening metal profile- this will greatly facilitate and speed up the work.
Electric drill with a set of drills.
A needle roller will be needed if you plan to give the drywall curved spatial shapes.
Folding meter and tape measure.
Hammer for driving in dowels, screwdrivers for mounting the frame.

All these tools and devices are readily available for purchase at hardware stores.

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Frame installation

Any construction works begin with measurements of the installation site, calculations and markings, and installing a partition is no exception.

Marking

It is most convenient to start marking on the floor. Using a construction angle, a long ruler (construction level, rules) and a pencil, a perfectly straight line is outlined and drawn.

A metal profile guide will subsequently be attached along this line.

The location of the doorway is immediately marked on this line - the guide will not be attached to this segment. The doorway is positioned in such a way that a certain piece of furniture can be placed on one or both sides - this also needs to be foreseen in advance.
Now you need to project a line from the floor to the ceiling - this process is carried out using a plumb line, and in this case an assistant will be needed.

Transferring a point to the ceiling using a plumb line - top view...

Having climbed the stairs, the assistant lowers the plumb line down, and presses its other end to the ceiling in the approximate area of the line.

... and at the same time - from below

The master marks a point on the floor with a cross, which needs to be projected onto the ceiling, the assistant slowly moves the suspension cord along the beam until the cone of the plumb line perfectly coincides with the point marked on the floor. When the goal is achieved, a mark is made on a point found on the ceiling. Thus, three points are found on the ceiling.

In addition, on the walls, vertical lines are drawn to the ceiling at right angles from the edges of the line on the floor - they will determine the beginning and end of the horizontal projection line.
Having identified points on the ceiling, draw a straight horizontal line along them - a guide will be fixed along it.

These two lines are very important, since the verticality of the future wall will depend on them. Therefore, their markings must be carried out with special care.

Frame installation

The next step is the installation of guide profiles.

First, the profile is fixed along a line on the floor using dowels. As already mentioned, space is left for a doorway.

The holes for the dowels are drilled through the laid guides. Then they are removed, and plastic dowel plugs are driven into the holes.

The hole is ready...

... and a dowel is driven into it

The next step is to install the guides on the walls along the previously marked vertical lines. During the installation process, the position is constantly checked according to the level in order to prevent even the slightest play to the side.

Otherwise - exactly the same, but with constant control of verticality

The bottom of the vertical profile is inserted into a horizontal guide installed on the floor.

If the walls are concrete, then the fastening process takes place in the same way as on the floor. If the walls are wooden, then they will not require dowels. Self-tapping screws are screwed through guides directly into the walls.

Next, the guide is attached to the ceiling in the same way as to the floors. Self-tapping screws are screwed in at a distance of 250 ÷ 300 mm from each other. Connections between the vertical and horizontal profiles on the ceiling are made in the same way as on the floor - using self-tapping screws or using a riveter.

The pitch between dowels is 250-300 mm

The next step is to identify and mark on ceiling profile location of the doorway, based on the lower markings. This is done in the same way as before - using a plumb line.

Height measurements are taken to make guides that will be installed on the sides of the doorway. The required length is marked on standard profiles, and the required blanks are cut out.

Now they need to be installed so that they mark the doorway.

The guides around the doorway are reinforced with wooden blocks, which are inserted directly into them and screwed with self-tapping screws. Or, for the stability of the structure, another reinforcing profile is installed next to the first profile.

After installing and strengthening the vertical profiles, the height of the doorway is measured on them. A horizontal crossbar from the desired section of the profile is screwed along these marks, and then a wooden beam is also inserted into it, to which the vertical racks. Long screws are screwed into the end of the crossbar installed horizontally.

Next, the space between the doorway and the walls is measured, and then the number of vertical posts is calculated, which must be fixed at a distance from each other of approximately 300 ÷ 600 mm.

Then the required number of blanks of the required length is cut. The racks are installed with their ends inward toward the guides on the floor and ceiling, with mandatory leveling. Fasten the profiles at the joints with self-tapping screws with large heads or with rivets.

For greater rigidity, especially when high ceilings, horizontal crossbars are also installed between the vertical posts.

Electrical wiring

After the frame is completely assembled, electrical wiring is installed inside it, if provided.

The wiring can be done after fixing the drywall to one side of the frame, or before that.

Holes are drilled in metal profiles through which wires are pulled, enclosed in insulating corrugated or smooth tubes. The ends of the wires are left outside.

Electric cable prices

Electrical cable

Cutting and fixing drywall

After wiring, drywall is fixed to one side of the frame. It is screwed on with black self-tapping screws specially designed for this purpose. The heads of the screws should go deeper into the gypsum board by 0.5 ÷ 1 mm.

If necessary, this process is carried out as follows:

— measurements are taken of the place that needs to be covered on the frame;

- then the cut can be made with a knife for cutting paper or drywall, as well as a regular hand hacksaw;

Cutting drywall is not difficult at all

- if the cut is made with a knife, then the blade is guided along the established ruler so that it cuts through upper layer cardboard and plaster, but the bottom layer of cardboard remained intact;

- then, the sheet is bent along the intended line, and at the bend point it is cut to the end with a knife.

Ideally, there should be a chamfer at the joints

The edge of the cut will not have a chamfer, and this is undesirable when sealing seams. The chamfer is made using a plane with a beveled knife.

If you plan to install sockets or switches in the partition, after wiring in the drywall using special crowns required diameter holes are cut through which wires are routed to connect sockets after the partition is completely installed. However, you can install boxes for switches on the finished half of the partition right away - this will be even more convenient.

Installation of boxes - socket boxes

Upon completion of installation of the material on one side of the frame, on the open side it is laid between the guides. Typically, mineral wool or isover is used for this process; polystyrene foam can also be used. Leaving the cavity empty is not recommended. It's not even about keeping warm - sometimes such a function is not needed. What is more important is that the hollow wall does not become a sound resonator - the thermal insulation material will rather play a role here.

Next, the second side of the frame is sewn up with plasterboard, in the same way as the first. If sockets and a switch will be installed on this side of the wall, then their position is calculated in advance, holes are cut before the material is fixed to the frame. The wires for them are brought to the place where the hole will be located, and after installing the drywall, they are brought out.

Door frame installation

When the partition is ready, a box is installed in the doorway to hang the door.

Wooden jamb with already installed hinges aligned and secured with powerful self-tapping screws in three or four places to the opening posts. Since wooden blocks were previously installed in them, the jamb will be securely fastened.
The heads of the self-tapping screws must be deepened into the thickness of the wooden posts of the box; for this, holes are pre-drilled in it “for hide it».
Next, on installed box the door is hung. Usually door leaf for such a design, it is selected as light in weight as possible so that it does not pull the partition to one side or the other. If the doorway is properly mounted and strengthened, then there should be no problems with the installation and operation of the door.
If it turns out that the doorway is larger than necessary, then wooden spacers are installed between the partition posts and the jamb. It is advisable that it be thick plywood, as it will not crack when door frame will be screwed to the posts. The remaining gaps between the jamb and the posts in this case are filled polyurethane foam. The foam must be allowed to expand and dry, after which it is cut off with a sharp construction knife.

The gap under the threshold is sealed with sealant.

Sealing joints on the surface of the partition

After installation is complete completed, you can proceed to sealing the joints of the drywall sheets.

For this you will need a sickle mesh. It is advisable to purchase a roll with glue already applied so that the mesh easily adheres to the cardboard surface.

The mesh is glued to all joints, without exception.

Next, using a spatula and starting putty the joints are sealed, if possible, the seams are perfect and all excess sealing material is removed.

When sealing joints between those sheets on which chamfering was carried out independently; before gluing the serpyanka, a primer treatment was done. It should dry well, and only after that you can stick the serpyanka and apply putty.
It is also better to first soak the gaps around the doorway, sealed with polyurethane foam, with a primer, and then seal them, like all other joints.
In addition, it is necessary to fill the holes left by the heads of the screws with putty, otherwise they may appear through the decorative coating as rust. After sealing the screws, the structure is left until completely dry.

After the putty has dried on certain areas of the partition, it should be completely covered. This coating will give the surface better adhesion, and the finishing putty will lie flat on the wall.
Next, the dried surface is completely covered. thin layer finishing putty- this can be done using a wide spatula. The surface is leveled as much as possible so that there are no deep grooves left from moving with a spatula.
Next, after waiting for the putty layer to dry, it must be treated with a float with the installed NotNot with fine-grained sandpaper. Then, if necessary, another layer of putty is applied, which is also dried and processed with fine sandpaper.

Before application decorative covering The leveled walls are once again impregnated with primer. Only after it has dried can you begin to paint the surface of the walls.

Video: installing a light plasterboard partition in the attic

If the time has come to remodel an attic or a large room on the ground floor, you should not doubt the choice of this particular method for constructing a partition. If you act step by step, following all the recommendations, then even the most inexperienced novice builder will be able to cope with this process on their own. Well, with the exception of some stages when it is simply impossible to do without an assistant.

When remodeling a room or even at the stage of basic construction, the need arises to divide the internal space. Simple, fast and effective way The solution to this problem will be the construction of plasterboard walls. In this case, walls mean internal partitions.

Scope of application and main dimensions of drywall

Gypsum plasterboard sheet (gypsum plasterboard) in its structure is a structure consisting of several layers:

outer layers - regular cardboard or impregnated with special additives that impart certain properties to the material (water-repellent or fire-resistant);
the inner layer is made of gypsum-containing material; the thickness of the layer determines the structural strength and purpose of the sheet.

The main area of application of plasterboard is the construction of partitions, suspended ceilings, interior lining walls Sheets of small thickness can be deformed in a certain way and used to create curved planes and structures.

Manufacturers produce material in standard sizes, conveniently combined with the sizes of residential and production premises. The most common sheet size is 1200 x 2500 mm. Depending on the purpose (ceiling or wall), its thickness can vary from 6.5 to 15 mm.

For ease of operation, one or two longitudinal edges of the sheet are formed in the form of a strip, the thickness of which is less than the thickness of the main sheet. The presence of such a chamfer facilitates subsequent work on joining and finishing. The joints of the sheets are glued with sickle tape and covered with a layer of putty.

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Main types of profiles used

The basis (frame) of plasterboard walls is made up of metal profiles and guides.

According to their functional purpose they are distinguished the following types profiles:

C-shaped support profile. Serves to form a rigid spatial frame of the wall and fasten cladding sheets.
U-shaped guide profile. Attached to enclosing surfaces. Serves as a basis for fastening support profiles and plasterboard sheets.

Depending on the overall dimensions There are two main types of profiles:

D-type - used to form the surface for fastening sheets when covering walls and constructing boxes and suspended ceilings;
W-type - used to make a frame when constructing plasterboard walls.

In turn, according to the standard size, the frame profile is distinguished by 50, 75 and 100 mm wide.

Those. The marking of profile molded products used during installation consists of two Latin letters. The first letter describes the area functional purpose. The second characterizes the dimensions of the product.

Additionally, auxiliary fastening and connecting elements can be used:

direct suspension - U-shaped bracket for fixing profiles on the enclosing surface;
crab - to ensure perpendicular connection of individual elements;
connector - for connecting individual sections of the profile along the length.

Basically, during the work you can do without using standard fasteners. They can be successfully replaced by small sections of support and guide profiles, trimmed and properly secured to the supporting frame.

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Tools and materials

In order to build a plasterboard structure, you will need the following tools:

hammer drill – drills holes for fastening guide profiles;
a drill or screwdriver with an appropriate attachment for attaching frame elements to each other using metal screws;
measuring instrument - tape measure, square, level;
metal scissors - for cutting profiles;
construction knife, hacksaw - necessary when cutting sheet material.

For final preparation for finishing the finished wall, you may additionally need:

sickle tape for sealing joints between sheets;
metal corners for decoration external corners plasterboard walls.

The metal frame elements are connected to each other using metal screws with a drill-shaped tip. Masters sometimes call them fleas or seeds.

The gypsum board sheets are attached to the frame using self-tapping screws with a piercing point and a countersunk head, which is screwed into the gypsum mass without pre-drilling.

The construction of the internal partition begins with the manufacture of a frame from metal profiles CW and UW.

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According to the preliminary design, installation lines are marked on the floor surface of the walls and ceiling. If the project provides for the construction of a wall with a doorway, then the preliminary marking should take it into account.

A prerequisite is the mutual perpendicularity of the lines.

Errors at this stage will result in the wall deviating from its vertical position or moving horizontally.

The vertical position of the marking lines is checked with a building level or using a plumb line. The perpendicularity of the horizontal markings relative to the walls is checked with a square.

The guides of the appropriate length are measured and cut. The resulting sections must be secured along the marking lines to create places for attaching support profiles.

The fastening technology will vary slightly depending on the surface material. The simplest material in terms of technology is wood. In this case, it is enough to drill through the base of the profile with a self-tapping screw of the appropriate length.

Plaster or foam concrete blocks In general, direct drilling is also possible. For more durable fastening it is necessary to use dowels and screws. Nowadays, as a more technologically advanced method, fastening using dowel-nails is common.

If necessary, additional mounting holes are drilled at the base of the profile. Then it is placed against the marking line, and the position of the mounting hole is transferred to the wall with a pencil. Using a hammer drill with a drill of the appropriate diameter, holes of the required depth are drilled.

It is very convenient to control the depth of the hole using a strip of paper rolled up in several layers pre-fixed to the surface of the drill masking tape. The length of the drill, limited by tape, should match or be slightly longer dowels This simple device, unlike a standard depth gauge, is more convenient to use and does not cause interference when used in hard-to-reach places.

Dowel-nails are inserted into the mounting holes and, using a hammer and hammer, driven into the holes in the enclosing surfaces. Brick and concrete require the use of dowel-nails for fastening the profile.

When installing, do not forget to stick a special vibration tape on the base of the guide. This will improve the sound insulation properties of a plasterboard wall, preventing sound transmission from solid load-bearing walls.

Redesigning the interior space can make living in a country house or apartment much more convenient. You can also perform this procedure yourself. Partitions in apartments or houses can be erected using different building materials. However, when doing redevelopment with your own hands, in most cases plasterboard is used to assemble such structures.

One of the main advantages of this modern material is its ease of installation. Constructing plasterboard walls is a relatively simple procedure. Assembling such a structure will not be difficult even for a novice home craftsman.

Main stages

Installation of walls and partitions from plasterboard in country houses and apartments usually using the following technology:

markings are made indoors using a level or level;

a partition frame made of a metal profile is mounted;

installed in the frame if necessary soundproofing material;

wiring is being installed;

assembled frame Sheathed with plasterboard on both sides.

On final stage A self-assembled gypsum board wall is primed and plastered or covered, for example, with wallpaper.

What tools will you need?

Before you start assembling a plasterboard wall or partition, of course, you need to prepare everything necessary tools. You will need to install such a structure:

hammer drill with concrete drill;

grinder and metal scissors;

drill or screwdriver;

level or level;

usually plumb.

Choosing drywall

To install plasterboard walls, according to regulations, it is necessary to use sheets with a thickness of at least 12 mm. For ordinary rooms - bedroom, living room, hall - you can purchase a simple cheap material white or light gray. In damp rooms - in the bathroom or in the sauna - it is recommended to install more expensive green plasterboard.

The price of moisture-resistant drywall in construction supermarkets is approximately 240-250 rubles. per sheet 2500 x 1200 x 12.5 mm. A regular gypsum board of the same size costs about 160-200 rubles.

When choosing plasterboard sheets, you should, of course, pay attention to their brand. For example, gypsum boards “Knauf”, “Volma”, and the budget “Decorator” have earned good reviews from consumers.

In addition to simple gypsum board sheets, in most cases simple steel self-tapping screws are purchased. Green moisture-resistant plasterboard on the frame is fixed using galvanized fasteners of this type. Such screws will last as long as possible in conditions of high humidity.

When purchasing gypsum boards, it is therefore important to pay attention to their thickness. And the size of the drywall sheets, however, is also quite an important indicator. It is believed that for standard rooms with a ceiling height of 2.5 m, for example, plasterboard with a length of 2.5-3 m is most suitable.

How to choose a profile for a frame

Thus, we found out which drywall for walls is best suited. But to build reliable structures of this type, it is important to choose the right profile, of course. In construction supermarkets you can, if desired, purchase both metal elements for assembling the supporting structure of a plasterboard wall, or made of timber. The material of the first type is the most popular among consumers.

Metal profiles are no more expensive wooden elements. At the same time, they can last longer. After all, they do not rot over time, do not dry out and do not become infected with fungus. In addition, such elements are easier to install. The profile you should choose for installing plasterboard walls is:

CD - guide parts;

UD - guides for mounting CDs;

CW - filter for frame development;

UW is the guide for CW.

The intermediate elements of the plasterboard wall frame are secured using special connectors and direct hangers.

How to mark up correctly

During construction, plasterboard walls are attached to the main structures of the building through the upper and lower profiles, as well as through racks. It is under these elements in the shared room that markings should be applied. In most cases, this procedure is performed in the following sequence:

draw a line on the ceiling for the top profile;

mark the same line on the floor using plumb lines;

draw lines along the walls on both sides of the future partition, connecting the upper and lower markings.

To carry out markings, in addition to a level and plumb line, it will be very convenient to use a painting cord. The use of this device will allow you to make the most even, uninterrupted lines on the walls, floor and ceiling.

How to assemble the frame correctly

The ceiling and floor guides are installed first in the room. Then they are connected with profiles along the walls. All frame elements are fastened at this stage with dowel nails, placing them in increments of no more than 60 cm.

Next, when assembling the frame, intermediate vertical posts are installed. They are mounted in increments of 60 cm. In some cases, to increase the strength of the wall or partition, the racks are placed at a distance of 40 cm from each other. Used for assembly vertical plane frame profile type PP. Such elements are pre-cut to the required length. Attach the vertical posts to the upper and lower guides using self-tapping screws with a press washer.

Drywall is a material that is known to be quite fragile. Of course, you cannot hang any objects directly on it - a TV, a cabinet, etc. In this case, support for furniture or household appliances should be provided precisely at the stage of frame assembly. For such objects, additional profiles are mounted in the supporting structure of the partition.

If desired, when assembling the frame, a home craftsman can also save on material. When cutting a profile, there are always a lot of scraps left, the length of which is not enough to install the main elements of the supporting structure. Such pieces, however, can still be used. It will be easy to lengthen the trim if necessary using special elements called connectors. Using the same additional elements, the main profiles are also connected if their length is not enough. This is usually done when installing plasterboard wall frames in rooms with very high ceilings.

The frame assembled from a metal profile in most cases turns out to be strong and reliable. However, when installing gypsum board walls and partitions of a large area, it is advisable to further strengthen the supporting structure using wooden blocks. Such elements are placed horizontally over the entire area of the frame. A very good solution would be to use such reinforcement when constructing plasterboard walls in a damp room.

How to install a sound insulator

The following are most often used as a sound-absorbing material when assembling walls and partitions from gypsum plasterboard:

mineral wool;

expanded polystyrene.

In this case, mineral wool is considered the most suitable option for soundproofing material. The advantages of such sheets include, among other things, ease of installation. When assembling a plasterboard partition, such material does not even have to be secured with anything additional. Mineral wool is distinguished, among other things, by its elasticity. Therefore, you can simply install it in the frame by surprise. In addition, this material has earned good reviews for its low price. In any case, the cost of constructing plasterboard walls using mineral wool can be significantly reduced.

Before proceeding with the installation of the sound insulator, electrical wiring must, of course, be carried out in the frame of the future partition. When performing this procedure, first determine the location of sockets and switches. The wires themselves inside the future partition are pulled in a special pipe. When using this technology, it will be extremely easy to replace the cable if necessary in the future. According to safety requirements, the pipe for laying wires inside plasterboard walls must be corrugated.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall: step-by-step instructions for installing sheets

The gypsum boards themselves are attached to the assembled frame using, as already mentioned, self-tapping screws. The drywall is pre-cut depending on the configuration of the supporting structure. Cut the sheets using a construction knife. In this case, the cardboard is pre-cut on both sides along pre-marked lines. Then the sheet is carefully broken along the cut line.

Attach gypsum boards “Knauf”, “Decorator” and any other to the frame profiles, recessing the screws into their body. At the same time, the fastening elements are placed in increments of 20 cm. When recessing the screws, among other things, they try not to tear the cardboard. In any case, the caps of such fasteners should not protrude above the plasterboard surface. Otherwise, in the future it will be impossible to finish the finished wall with tiles or, for example, cover it with wallpaper.

Using this technology, both regular and moisture-resistant drywall are attached. The price for both of these types of sheets is relatively low. However, this rather fragile material must be cut and installed carefully. This will minimize waste, and therefore reduce the cost of building the wall.

The assembled frame should be sheathed slowly, carefully aligning the sheets of drywall. To ensure that the wall subsequently looks as smooth and neat as possible, before installation on the gypsum board, you can apply markings according to the location of the profiles of the supporting structure. The easiest way to make such marks is to use a long ruler and a simple pencil.

What rules should be followed when covering

When constructing plasterboard walls, sheets should be mounted on a frame in compliance with the following recommendations:

each sheet must have at least 3 profiles - one in the middle and two at the edges;

2 adjacent sheets should meet in the middle;

Each plasterboard sheet on the frame must be securely fixed to the profile with self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter.

Before installation, it is advisable not only to cut the sheets, but also to make a small groove along their end. This will make it much easier to seal the seams between the sheets in the future.

Puttying

Walls and partitions made from plasterboard usually have a flat surface. Thick wallpaper or, for example, PVC panels can be attached to such structures without prior puttying. In all other cases, such a procedure is considered necessary.

Putty for drywall is chosen depending on the type finishing are going to use it in the future. For example, today there are compositions of this variety on sale, intended for application to wallpaper, for painting, under tiles, etc.

In any case, the puttying technology itself will look something like this:

coat the holes remaining above the recessed screws with the selected composition;

glue the joints between the sheets with serpyanka;

the joints are covered with putty in such a way as to completely cover the serpyanka;

remove blemishes using sandpaper.

At the next stage, when constructing plasterboard walls with your own hands, they begin to apply the main layer of putty to the plasterboard. At the same time, using a 40 cm long spatula, coat the walls with the selected composition and carefully level it. The entire plasterboard surface of the partition is treated in this way. Next, wait for the applied layer to dry and begin processing it with sandpaper or a paint float. Instead of a grater, if desired, you can use a regular one. wooden block.

As soon as the walls are completely leveled, they begin priming. Using this procedure, you can make the drywall surface not only smoother, but also more durable. In addition, when priming, dust is removed from the gypsum boards mounted on the frame. The composition for performing this procedure, of course, should be chosen for working with gypsum.

Doors and window

Of course, doors are installed in almost any partition installed in a residential area, including plasterboard ones. Sometimes windows are also made in such structures. Of course, openings in plasterboard partitions and walls should be sheathed correctly.

A CW profile is usually installed at the location of the window or door. It should be mounted with the front side inside the opening. In such elements, among other things, you need to insert bars of the appropriate section. Firstly, this will strengthen the frame. And secondly, if there is timber between the profiles, it will be easier to install a frame or box in the future.

Door during assembly interior walls made of plasterboard is mounted as follows:

a box is assembled on the floor;

the box is installed in the opening and fixed with wedges;

using a level or level, check the evenness of the installation of the box;

the box is secured in the opening by screwing self-tapping screws through it and timber-reinforced profiles;

the gap between the racks and the box is filled with polyurethane foam.

At the final stage, the box is hung on hinges interior door. Using approximately the same technology when assembling plasterboard partitions and walls, double-glazed windows are also installed. Sometimes such openings in plasterboard walls indoors are left unglazed. In this case, the profile along the edges of the window is also reinforced with bars. Next, a decorative frame is inserted into the opening. If desired, the last element can not be mounted in the window. In this case, its slopes will simply need to be sealed with strips of drywall.

Instead of a conclusion

This is the step-by-step instructions for assembling gypsum board partitions. A plasterboard wall, built with your own hands according to all the rules, will subsequently serve long years. When assembling such a structure, it is important to observe the spacing between fasteners, carefully, with preliminary markings, cut and install sheets, use suitable putty. In this case, the gypsum board wall or partition will be smooth, beautiful and reliable.

Initial stage overhaul housing stock is redevelopment. Interior walls made of plasterboard are currently the most common type of dividing the area of apartments and houses into separate rooms. trend recent years steel new buildings, which offer apartments with open plan. The total area in such apartments is not divided into separate rooms. Future owners are offered to plan the space themselves, zoning the premises into separate rooms at their discretion. Most often for interior walls.

Interior walls made of plasterboard without plaster

The reasons why this method of building walls is preferred is due to the advantages of such structures. Thanks to them, plasterboard partitions have replaced partitions made of brick and gypsum ridge slabs.
Positive sides installation of plasterboard construction:

speed of assembly, installation of the wall takes little time;
lightweight design;
reliable, durable, stable;
The wiring of electrical points is greatly facilitated; there is no need to trench the walls;
good sound insulation;
environmental friendliness of materials.

With certain skills, you can make a plasterboard wall with your own hands in literally a day.

Planning and calculations

Before you begin, you need to plan the room and calculate the material.

In this situation, they resort to the services of builders, designers, or you can do it yourself. You just need to take into account the main points. There is a technical passport of a house or apartment to scale. It will become the basis of the layout. Using the existing scale, draw the proposed walls on it. But we have to . They are made from, which can withstand increased loads.

Types of profiles

Based on which profile will be chosen, the depth (thickness) of the partition is calculated. The wider the bar, the thicker and more reliable the partition. But quite often they resort to another method of strengthening the structure; a rack profile, for example, 50 mm, is paired. They are installed with the base (wide part) facing each other and secured with press washers. Thus, an I-beam with 2 additional stiffeners is formed.

Such a frame is not inferior in strength to a 100 mm profile, but is narrower in thickness. In order to calculate the interior wall, you need to add 2 thicknesses of the gypsum plasterboard sheet (12.5 mm) to the width of the profile: let’s say a profile of 50 mm + (12.5x2 mm gypsum plasterboard) = 50 + 25 = 75 mm - wall thickness.

Quite often, then you need to add another 25 mm.

The layout of the door in the partition has important When planning the partition, it is tedious to take into account the dimensions of the door. Depending on the purpose of the premises. Thus, doors with a width of 700 mm are installed in bathrooms, and interior doors are 800 mm wide. The average height is 2,000 mm. If desired, the width indicators can be shifted to a smaller or larger direction.

Material calculation

perimeter of the structure;
square;
step between racks;
doorway dimensions.

The calculation of guide profiles (PN) is done based on the perimeter. They are attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls. The total perimeter is divided by the length of the purchased guide profile, and the number of strips needed for the partition is obtained.
An example of calculating the rate of material consumption for a wall. The rack profile is calculated based on the length, height and pitch between the racks. Recommended pitch 600 mm. Thus, a sheet of plasterboard, the width of which is 1200 mm, will be attached to three racks. One in the center of the sheet, and 2 along the edges. To calculate the racks, you need to divide the length of the partition by 600 mm, you get the number of racks.

Then the height of the wall is multiplied by the number of racks. As a result, we will determine how much linear meters rack profile is needed. This molding is divided into 3.4 m (the length of the planks), and the required quantity is obtained, which must be purchased for installing the wall. In addition to the horizontal posts, transverse jumpers are installed in the frame partitions. They are made from a rack profile, cutting the edges at an angle of 45⁰.

The net width of the jumpers (direct hangers) is 600 mm (step pitch), additionally you need to take into account the margin for the wings that will be trimmed. The recommended pitch between straight hangers is also 600 mm. Divide the height of the partition by 600 mm. We get the number of pieces, then multiply by the number of sections (one section - two racks).

This way we will find out how many linear meters of the rack profile will go into the racks. Next, we divide this molding into 3.4 meters. As a result, we find out the number of slats. We add to them the calculated strips on the horizontal racks, and we get the total sum of the PS profiles. It is more accurate to calculate the doorway, but it is still necessary to purchase the material with a 10-15% reserve, since some always goes to waste.

Partition installation

How to make an interior wall from plasterboard.
Before you begin installing interior walls, you need to make markings.
But first you need to prepare the materials.
Materials:

guide profile (PN/UW);
rackmount (PS/CW;
deep penetration;
spatula;
grout mesh.

Peculiarities

A home is a real fortress for everyone, which is why it is so important to equip it in such a way as to feel confident, comfortable and good in it. Buying a new home or changing the number of occupants of an old one may require redevelopment of the space so that everyone can feel comfortable in it. In an old house, additional space may be needed if there is a new addition to the family or one of the relatives needs personal closed space where you can be alone.

The issue of layout becomes especially acute in new buildings of free type., where there are no clear boundaries of the room, and each resident can make the design that he likes. It is possible to build brick walls, this has its advantages, because such a structure will last a long time and nothing will happen to it. But building such walls is not at all easy, and most importantly, it requires large quantity materials. For those who have never laid brick, it will not be easy to cope with this task and make a high-quality and durable partition.

In view of all these circumstances, one of the simplest and convenient options is the construction of plasterboard walls. Such designs are easy to make yourself and even non-professionals can do this process. In this matter, it is important to know what is needed to build a wall and what difficulties will be encountered.

A plasterboard wall has a number of important advantages Compared to brick, it is easy to install and does not create a lot of weight on the floor due to the frame made of thin profiles and simple sheets, the thickness of which does not exceed a centimeter.

Another factor that can be considered an advantage of such structures is the possibility of erecting partitions, walls and piers without obtaining the appropriate permission for redevelopment, which will speed up the process and eliminate unnecessary procedures. To work on creating new boundaries of the premises, you need to determine what will change and where, mark the territory and calculate how much materials will be needed.

Drywall sheets are quite compact in thickness and when stacked one on top of the other, a lot of material can be brought in at once. Its weight is also light.

In order for the new walls to be warm and not allow sound to pass through, insulation and sound insulation are placed inside the structure. You can run wiring in it, install a switch and socket so that the functionality of the room does not suffer from its redevelopment.

When planning the remodeling of large-scale objects, it is important to understand how justified the use of this or that material will be, therefore you simply need to clearly understand what the pros and cons of drywall and what exactly it will allow you to create in a residential area.

Advantages and disadvantages

The use of plasterboard has made it possible to obtain fantastic possibilities that were previously extremely difficult, if not impossible, to achieve using brick as the main material and constructing walls, partitions and partitions from it.

From this material indoors you can make:

a wall that will divide the room;
a partition that will allow you to zone the space or give decorative effect due to its intricate design;
complex decorative design and achieve original shapes and textures in the room.

A special feature of drywall is the ease of working with it. In order to build a wall, you need to form a frame and cover it with sheets. Frame construction can be made of either metal profiles or wood. The resulting structure is sheathed with plasterboard on both sides.

Sheets can be regular, waterproof and fireproof, their choice will be dictated by the place where the new wall or partition is created. When one wall is sheathed, you need to place glass or mineral wool so that the partitions not only help divide the room into two parts, but also serve as heating and sound protection.

Among the advantages of this material are:

ease of installation of structures of any type and complexity;
ability to erect structures of any shape and type;
when carrying out work on the construction of walls or partitions, you do not need to have any special or expensive tools;
Inside the wall you can place wiring, telephone cable, air duct, which makes it also functional;

the resulting wall will be absolutely flat and smooth, therefore the work on leveling it will be reduced to grouting the seams between the slabs and puttying the entire surface for further decorative work;
after all preparatory work the finished wall can be painted in any color, covered with wallpaper or even tiled.

This material also has its disadvantages, which include:

changes in the properties of the material upon contact with water, which can cause drywall to swell;
any load must be thought out in advance and the place where the picture, sconce, lamp or lamp is attached must be initially reinforced;
Too heavy objects cannot be installed on this surface, which should initially be taken into account when planning and determining the location of each decorative element.

So, using drywall you can make a wall of any shape and appearance, which you can only imagine, while the sound insulation and heat in the room will be at a high level, because for this purpose the appropriate filling is placed inside the structure. Sockets with switches will allow you not to limit the possibilities of the new space.

Materials and tools

When planning to build a plasterboard wall, you need to choose the right materials and have all the necessary tools with you so that the work process takes as little time as possible and does not take a lot of effort and energy. In order for the wall to be strong enough, a frame made of a metal profile is erected for it. For for various purposes There are also different profiles.

Most often, two options are used for such structures:

A profile, but which will be attached directly to the drywall itself. It is smaller and conventionally designated as “D”.
The profile with which the main frame of the wall will be erected. It should be more powerful and larger, conventionally designated as “W”.

For each of the above profiles there are two more options, one of which is a support one and is designated “C”, and the second is a guide and is designated “U”. The guide profile is simpler; it has a U-shaped structure and smooth walls. The support profile is inserted into it end-to-end. It also has an additional difference from the guide in the form of ribbing, which gives greater strength to the material and does not allow it to bend spontaneously.

As the main load-bearing element frame, you need to use a supporting and smaller profile, to which the sheet of drywall will be attached. Its size is 60 by 27 millimeters. As guides to secure such a structure, you need to use a narrow guide profile with dimensions of 28 by 27 millimeters. In order to form a wall frame, you need to take a supporting and large profile with dimensions of 50 by 50, 50 by 75 or 50 by 100 millimeters. A large guide profile with dimensions 50 by 40, 75 by 40, 100 by 40 is used as a guide for this design.

There is another profile option, which is a thicker and reinforced version of the large support profile. For construction simple walls only wide profiles are used, but for more complex structures, in which it is planned to lay any communications, it is necessary to use thin profile options.

In order for the profile to be connected into a frame, you need to have a direct suspension or use a universal connector. The twisting process is carried out using small flea screws, which have a drill at the end. In addition, special metal screws are used that have a countersunk head. To secure the frame to the wall, you cannot do without plastic dowels and impact screws.

The optimal thickness of plasterboard sheets for a wall is considered to be 12.5 millimeters. A mandatory element must be a wide chamfer on the side of the sheet. Depending on the room, you need to choose the appropriate material - for the kitchen and bathroom you need a moisture-resistant sheet, and for ordinary room will suit and ordinary. Distinctive feature The color will serve - for moisture-resistant sheets it is green, for ordinary sheets it is gray.

Thus, the sheathing of a plasterboard structure is most often made from a metal profile, but in some cases wood can also be used. Depending on the type of structure, you can choose one or another material and select its thickness.

Tools that will be needed during the construction of walls made of plasterboard sheets:

tape measure at least 3 meters long;
level at 80 or 120 centimeters;
plumb lines;
fishing line with rope;

network or cordless screwdriver, hammer drill with attachments for self-tapping screws;
perforator;
scissors that can be used to cut metal;
construction knife for cutting drywall sheets;
plasterboard float.

Frame

In order to make high-quality and flat wall made of plasterboard, first of all you will need to build a metal frame on which the sheets will be attached. In order for the installation to be carried out correctly, certain patterns must be taken into account. The first step will be marking the territory where the construction of the structure is planned. The next step is to check the evenness of the corners.

Due to the fact that the walls in a room are often not very even, when building a new wall you need to focus not only on one wall, but also take into account two opposite sides. If the walls are too uneven corners, the easiest way is to cover each of them with plasterboard, which will allow them to be leveled. Only after this should you approach the installation of a new profile.

To level the posts, a laser level is best., but if it is not there, you can use a simple plumb line. Before installing the profile for the walls, ceiling and floor, you need to paste it over using a special sealing tape. It will help with shock absorption and sound insulation. Before you start attaching the profiles, you need to clearly mark the places on the floor, wall and shelf where the base for the frame will be attached.

When everything is ready, you can begin to secure the guide profile, taking steps of up to one meter. If the fastening goes to wooden surface, then the distance is 50 centimeters and the clutch is made using self-tapping screws. If work is done with concrete surface, then the frame is screwed using dowels in increments of 75 centimeters. In this case, it is important to make the holes in advance.

You can attach both a load-bearing and a rack profile to the wall, but it is important that it be solid. If the height of the ceilings is more than three meters, then longer materials will have to be used for the structure. In the event that a door is planned new wall, it is important for her to leave an opening of the required width on the floor. In the case of standard dimensions It is important to make a door with an 80-centimeter opening 8 centimeters wider in order to be able to install a door frame.

The rack profile is installed from the doorway and determines its width. The first place where the profile is fixed is the floor, then the level of the entire structure is checked and it is attached to the ceiling. The racks can be installed at any pitch, it depends on the sheets of drywall. Most often they are installed as fastening tool for sheets at the edge and in the middle of the entire structure. The junction of the two sheets should lie clearly in the middle of the profile.

If racks are installed frequently, the strength of the wall increases, it will withstand a lot, but the cost of the work also increases. As for the profile framing the doorway, for greater rigidity you can place a wooden block or a load-bearing profile in it. You can also use transverse struts, which are also reinforced with timber and installed where there is a horizontal drywall joint.

The doorway on top is additionally equipped with a lintel. The installation height depends on the door dimensions. If it is two meters, then the jumper needs to be installed at a height of two meters and five centimeters. It is made from a rack profile, which needs to be cut longer - not 20, or even 30 centimeters. Stepping back 10 or 15 centimeters from each side of the profile, you need to make a cut at 45 degrees. The bevel should face outward.

The sides that were cut need to be folded down and the structure given a U-shape. The vertical parts must be put on the racks and secured with metal screws. When working with sheets of drywall, it is important to use only special screws that have a press washer. It is this that helps to easily pass through the canvas without damaging the cardboard and allows the cap to go deeper to the required distance.

Step-by-step installation instructions

If you need to create a plasterboard structure with your own hands, you need to properly organize the work. The first thing that is necessary is to level the floor and walls to which the structure of the future wall will be attached. Only after this can you make markings on the floor, taking into account both parallel walls for removal correct angle for construction. If the adjacent walls will also be covered with plasterboard, then initially a sheathing is erected for them, and only after that the installation of the frame for the new wall begins.

According to the markings applied to the floor and walls, only the profile needs to be leveled, and the width of the entire wall will increase after installing the gypsum board and putty. It is definitely worth noting the location of the doorway, if provided. After the markings on the floor are completed, next step There will be a mark on the wall and ceiling. To do everything perfectly accurately, it is better to use a laser level. If you don’t have one, a simple plumb line will do.

When everything is ready, the metal frame is erected. The first profile is attached to the floor using dowels. The second stage is the construction of part of the structure on the ceiling. When both parts are ready, they are connected into general design with help support posts C.W. If there is a door or window, you need to use the same racks for them. Installation occurs from the bottom up, the front side should be directed inside the window or door opening.

The next step is installation vertical supports from the same CW profile with a distance of 55 and 60 centimeters from each other. When everything is ready, all supports are checked with a level. After this, work begins on installing horizontal edges with the UW profile. When all this work has been completed, you can begin fastening the drywall sheets.

Based on the fact that this material It has standard sizes 2 at 1.20 m, 2.50 at 1.20 m and 3 at 1.20 m, for different ceilings different dimensions will be needed. If the room is not high, then the sheet will most likely have to be cut; the same principle is used for ceilings of more than three meters, when the length will have to be increased.

To cut the sheet, use a construction knife.

The cutting process consists of the following stages:

laying the sheet on a surface that should be as flat and hard as possible;
you need to draw a line along which the cut will go using a pencil;
You need to cut carefully and only the cardboard itself;

the sheet is shifted to the edge of a flat support up to the drawn line; by applying pressure, you need to make a break along it;
turn the drywall over and draw the same line with reverse side, along which to make the same cut;
move along the cut line, press and completely break the gypsum board.

The next step will be attaching the plasterboard sheets to the finished frame.

To do this you need:

On the first sheet, the side chamfer is removed, for which a strip of 55 millimeters is cut off.
The sheets are fastened from the lower corner of the wall. It is important to make a small indentation from the floor of 10 or 15 millimeters.
Attaching the sheet to the sheathing using 3.5 by 35 mm self-tapping screws. The edges are attached first, and then they move to the middle. The width from screw to screw should not exceed 25 centimeters. The caps need to be slightly deeper into the surface of the sheet.

After installing the first drywall element, you need to measure the distance that remains to the ceiling and cut the corresponding piece.
Forming a chamfer on a sheet.
Install it on the frame.
It is important to fasten the following sheets in a checkerboard pattern, but there is no need to cut the chamfer. This is how the whole sheet is attached, without trimming. The fastening goes from the ceiling to the floor. In this way, the entire side of the future wall is sheathed.

Once one side has been completed, it is important to consider whether wiring and telephone cable will be needed in the new premises. If yes, then the next step will be to install them. For wiring, you need to prepare corrugated pipes and insert wires into them. After this, you need to make holes in the profile with a diameter of 3.5 cm and thread pipes with wires into them. It is important to decide on the holes for sockets and switches and make them in advance.

To build a quality wall, you need to complement it inner part relevant materials, which will have sound insulation and will make you feel confident and comfortable, as if behind a stone wall. This must be done correctly, using rolled mineral wool 6 or 12 centimeters thick. The cotton wool is placed tightly between the profiles, this will be enough for good fastening. After everything is done, you can put up the second wall.

The technology for covering it is the same. As soon as all installation work is completed, the new stage, where the finished wall is subjected to the processing process:

joints between plasterboard sheets are glued using sickle tape;
treating the wall with starting putty;
wall treatment finishing putty, leveling the places where the screws are located;
grouting putty with sandpaper;
decorative wall decoration.

A false wall can be ready quite quickly, it all depends on the skill of the master and his experience. Even a beginner can assemble such a structure, it will just take him more time.

Interior walls will serve for a long time, the main thing is to monitor the conditions of their use. You can use paint, wallpaper or tiles as decoration for such elements; it all depends on the room, interior and the desires of the owners themselves.

Design

Drywall is very comfortable material for work, especially for creating interesting and unusual images in the interior. This becomes possible due to the fact that the sheets can take on a wide variety of shapes; they can not only be cut, but also bent, for which it is enough to simply wet the sheet and give it the desired shape.

You can use this material anywhere– both in a private house and in an apartment, and in each case the design can be completely different. Options for exactly how a particular space may look may differ in style, shape, and texture. You can build structures with gypsum plasterboard in the bathroom, bedroom, corridor and any other room; only the finishing material will differ. For rooms with high humidity levels, moisture-resistant sheets are used.

A false wall is completely similar to a regular one; moreover, it can be equipped with a door and fully serve its owners to separate certain areas of the room. To fulfill this idea, when designing, leave space for an opening and later place doors in it.

To zone a space, it is not necessary to build entire walls; you can limit yourself to a small partition that will look impressive with lighting from above and decorative boxes. Making the partition not a continuous sheet allows you to give the structure lightness. Equipping with shelves will help add coziness and hide small things in a secluded place. This option is best suited for the living room, but you can also use it in the hall.

A distinctive characteristic of drywall is the ability to apply any decoration methods to it. For creating cozy atmosphere in living rooms, you can glue wallpaper on the finished wall or paint it in any color and even cover it with natural or artificial stone. The latter option is especially suitable for a fireplace, which can also be made from plasterboard. Also in the kitchen or bathroom suitable option painting, but you can also lay tiles to definitely protect the walls from excess moisture and create the full feeling of a real brick wall.

When planning the construction of a plasterboard wall, you first need to prepare the room. There should not be anything superfluous in it, because it will not be easy to place a sheet 2 or 3 meters long in it. The room should be clean enough so that the plasterboard sheets do not get dirty, because then you will need to get rid of the stains so that they do not appear on the surface of the wallpaper or paint.

It is important to plan the room correctly, take into account the heating system, and if necessary, install batteries in the new living space. It is necessary to take into account the light that will be blocked new design. If the windows are located only on one side, it is important not to completely block access to them.

If it is not a wall that is being formed, but a partition, it is better to make it with shelves rather than a solid structure, which will allow you to divide the space, create a storage area, and provide light access to the second part of the room.

Examples in the interior

A plasterboard wall can become a real highlight in the interior; the main thing is to approach the process of its design correctly and choose the right materials that will help decorate the room and highlight its features.

In the bedroom, using drywall you can create an original and unique design. The wall next to the bed is designed using ornate lines; soft shapes give coziness and promote good rest. The presence of shelves allows you to store small things there and use them as a place for lamps.

For the living room, especially when it borders the kitchen and is not separated by walls, you can use an original semicircular structure that rises from the wall to the ceiling. The space is divided into two zones. In this case, use white best helps to increase the space of both zones.

A plasterboard wall can be designed immediately with a doorway to divide the space between two rooms. Doors can be single or double-leaf, with glass or solid, it depends on the design of the room.

To learn how to make a partition from plasterboard, see the following video.

Construction of an interior partition from plasterboard with your own hands. Installation instructions for plasterboard partitions How to build a plasterboard wall with your own

Materials for installing plasterboard partitions

Tools needed for work

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Frame installation

Marking

Frame installation

Electrical wiring

Electric cable prices

Cutting and fixing drywall

Door frame installation

Sealing joints on the surface of the partition

Scope of application and main dimensions of drywall

Main types of profiles used

Tools and materials

Main stages

What tools will you need?

Choosing drywall

How to choose a profile for a frame

How to mark up correctly

How to assemble the frame correctly

How to install a sound insulator

Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall: step-by-step instructions for installing sheets

What rules should be followed when covering

Puttying

Doors and window

Instead of a conclusion

Planning and calculations

Types of profiles

Material calculation

Partition installation

Peculiarities

Advantages and disadvantages

Materials and tools

Frame

Step-by-step installation instructions

Design

Examples in the interior

Latest

You need to know this