All types of insulated entrance doors. Insulated wooden entrance doors

IN Lately Metal and plastic entrance doors have gained popularity, but wooden structures still do not go out of fashion. This is easy to explain, since wood not only has high heat and sound insulation characteristics, but also looks beautiful. And if the wooden entrance door is additionally insulated and sheathed, it will perfectly protect against the cold and decorate any home.

Installation of an insulated wooden entrance door

Models designed for installation from the street can withstand temperature changes and retain their original characteristics throughout their entire service life. appearance. In addition to the fact that insulated wooden doors do not allow heat to pass through, modern processing technologies ensure a long service life of such structures.

The entrance insulated wooden door has high performance characteristics and a beautiful appearance

A wooden entrance door has the following advantages:

minimal heat loss - due to the low thermal conductivity of wood and the presence of a layer of insulation, the optimal temperature is maintained in the house, saving money on heating costs;
A door made of wood with internal insulation can be made as a paneled door
absence of condensation - there is no large temperature difference on the surface of the door. And the absence of moisture on the door leaf and on the wall allows you to increase their service life;
good sound insulation;
beautiful appearance.
A wooden front door can become a real decoration for a private home.

Insulated door structure

Modern technologies make it possible to create high-quality and reliable wooden doors. They are installed both at the entrance to the house and to the apartment. An insulated wooden door consists of the following elements:

frame - made of solid wood or wooden blocks;
You can assemble the frame of a wooden door with your own hands if you have experience working with wood materials
insulation - applied to the outside or inside of the finished door, and covered with decorative material on top of it. IN wooden houses The insulation on the door is covered with slats. There are factory options, when a layer of insulation is placed inside the door. If the door is framed independently, then the insulation is spread between sheets of chipboard or MDF;
The presence of different types of insulation for the front door allows you to choose the right way for each specific case
seal - attached around the perimeter of the canvas or box, or in both places at once. This is done with glue, double-sided tape or furniture nails. The thickness of the seal must correspond to the gap between the frame and the door leaf, so it is selected individually in each case.
The seal ensures a tight fit of the leaf to the door frame

A small lunge is made on the door leaves to close the gap between the frame and the leaf.

To insulate a wooden door, different types of thermal insulation materials can be used

Manufacturing of wooden entrance doors with insulation

The ideal option is to buy a ready-made insulated door. However, the cost of such a design is quite high. But you can insulate your old one or make a new insulated entrance door yourself.

Door insulation material

First you need to figure out what kind of insulation is used for wooden doors. Such materials include:

corrugated cardboard (cellular cellulose) - consists of many honeycombs, placed inside the door leaf. To achieve the desired thermal insulation properties of the door, it will have to be laid in at least three layers. Corrugated cardboard does not have high characteristics, so it is not suitable for insulating a street door to a house. But they can be used to insulate the door to the entrance or to an apartment that is not located on the first floor;
Corrugated cardboard - simple and cheap material, having weak insulating qualities
polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) is a lightweight and inexpensive material with good insulating characteristics. Disadvantages: absorbs moisture (condensation accumulates in it, the door freezes), low fire safety, toxic substances are released during its combustion. Over time, gaps appear between individual foam plastic slabs, and heat loss through such a door increases;
If Entrance door is insulated with polystyrene foam, it is better to use large pieces rather than putting together a mosaic of small ones
mineral wool - does not conduct heat well, does not rot or burn. The cost is higher than that of polystyrene foam. Wool is an ideal insulation material for walls, facades or attics, but is not very suitable for doors. Since when using the door, impacts occur, as a result of which the cotton wool settles and crumples;
To protect mineral wool from moisture, it is necessary to additionally use a waterproofing film.
polyurethane - a material in the form of foam fills the voids of the door leaf well and after some time turns into a dense porous mass. Pros: does not burn, is not afraid of moisture and does not settle during the operation of the door. A layer of polyurethane foam 25 mm thick is enough to provide the same thermal protection as Brick wall thickness 650 mm;
Polyurethane foam is an excellent material for insulating a wooden entrance door
foam rubber is a type of polyurethane foam, produced in rolls or slabs. Used for thermal insulation of wooden door from outside. Different types foam rubber differs in thickness and density. For covering the door leaf, sheets with a thickness of at least 30 mm are used. Narrow rollers are also made from this material. They are mounted around the perimeter of the door in the form of seals;
It is convenient to work with foam rubber: it is light, soft and pliable.
Isolon - on one side has a foil coating that reflects heat into the room. The thickness of the isolon may vary;
Izolon is usually used to insulate doors from the outside
batting and felt - these materials have been used before. Nowadays they are practically not used for insulating entrance doors, as they quickly lose their protective characteristics;
Batting and felt are now more often used in the manufacture of furniture, warm clothing and various interior items
natural leather or artificial leather (leatherette) - auxiliary materials with which the door leaf is sheathed on top of the insulation. They also provide an additional layer of thermal insulation;
To upholster the entrance door from the inside of the room, artificial or natural leather is most often used.
rubber is also an auxiliary material, used to create wide seals, with the help of which the gaps between the box and the canvas are closed.

To insulate the door, you can use any of the described materials. You just need to choose the right thickness and perform the installation efficiently. But optimal insulation Currently considered polyurethane.

Video: the process of making an insulated entrance door for a bathhouse yourself

How to insulate a wooden entrance door with your own hands

If you decide to insulate a wooden front door yourself, you first need to determine the condition of the door leaf and frame. They must be of high quality and without damage. It is also necessary to take into account that an insulated door will become heavier. Therefore, it is important that the hinges can withstand the new weight.

Strengthening the door frame

First, the condition of the door frame is assessed. If it dangles, then it should be additionally fixed.

Over time, the foam used to fill the gap between the box and the wall collapses. If this happens, then it must be removed and the gaps filled with new polyurethane foam.

Then the geometry of the door jamb is checked. If in some places the door rubs against the frame, this violation must be eliminated. To do this, either the hinges are tightened more tightly, or the door leaf is adjusted with a plane.

Installation of sealing elements

When choosing them, you need to take into account the size of the gap between the leaf and the door frame. It is important to correctly measure the perimeter of the canvas so as not to make a mistake with the length of the self-adhesive sealant, since it is produced in rolls.

To install the seal, simply remove it from it. protective film and stick it on the door and door frame

Sealing gaps using rollers

Typically, rollers are made from the same material that is used for door upholstery: leather or leatherette.

Leather rollers are nailed either from the inside along the edges of the door jamb, or from the outside along the edges of the door itself: their installation is carried out with additional overlap

The process of insulation using rollers:

For better protection from the cold, the roller should protrude 2–3 cm beyond the door leaf or jamb.

Covering the door with insulation

Although the process of insulating a door requires some effort and knowledge, there is nothing complicated about it; you can do everything yourself. For this you will need:

insulation;
upholstery;
hammer;
measuring instruments;
stationery knife.

For this method of covering a door, any soft insulation is suitable: foam rubber, mineral wool, polyurethane, isolon. The sequence of work is as follows:

The fabric is removed from the loops and placed on a flat surface.
Measure the dimensions of the door leaf.
To determine the size of insulation and upholstery material, you need to correctly measure the door leaf
Determine the size of insulation and upholstery. After measuring the door leaf, the resulting dimensions are transferred to the insulation, subtracting 1 cm from each side. For upholstery material, on the contrary, 3–5 cm are added to the door dimensions.
The fittings are removed from the door so that it does not interfere.
A layer of insulation is placed on the door, securing it. The top is covered with upholstery, its edges are folded under the insulation.
It is important to secure the insulation well so that it does not move during operation and does not form voids.
Using nails, fix the upholstery around the perimeter of the door leaf. During this, you must constantly pull the material tightly, otherwise folds may form. It is better to fasten from the middle of the door to the edges.
To fix the upholstery, decorative nails with wide heads are used so that the leather in these places is not damaged
Carefully make holes for the handles, peephole and lock. After this, all the parts are fastened into place.
The rollers are nailed.
The door is decorated with a decorative pattern, which also serves as an additional fixation of the insulation. To do this, a certain pattern is applied to the upholstery with chalk, and decorative nails are nailed along its contours. You can stretch fishing line or thin copper wire between these nails.
When creating a decorative pattern, you need to ensure uniform tension of the fishing line between the nails
Hang the door on its hinges.

Foam insulation

Here the sequence of work will be slightly different from the previous version. You can insulate a wooden door using polystyrene foam in two ways:

Video: step-by-step DIY production of an insulated door

Features of door installation and operation

Installation of an insulated wooden entrance door into a wall opening is carried out in the same sequence as any other. You can cope with this task yourself, but first you need to prepare the tools and materials:

perforator;
Bulgarian;
electric drill;
hammer;
roulette;
building level;
screwdriver or set of screwdrivers;
anchor bolts;
polyurethane foam;
wooden wedges.

The door installation process consists of the following steps:

Preparing the doorway - if hanging old door, then it must be dismantled together with the box. After this, the opening is cleared of old plaster, polyurethane foam. If voids have formed, they are filled cement mortar. Using a grinder and a hammer drill, the protruding parts of the opening are removed.
The edges of the opening are made smooth: its size should correspond to the size of the door frame
Installation of the frame - the door frame is installed in the prepared opening and, using wooden wedges, is leveled in the horizontal and vertical directions.
The wedges are evenly distributed around the perimeter of the frame, with their help they fix the position of the door frame in the opening
Installation check - the building level checks the correct installation of the box. The size of the diagonals must be controlled: they must be equal.
With help building level check the correct installation of the door frame: it should not be skewed, otherwise the door will not close
Fixing the box - holes are drilled in the box with an electric drill, through which it is attached to the opening with anchor bolts.
The upper parts of the anchor bolts expand inside the opening when tightened, so this fastening becomes more reliable
Installation of the door leaf - the door is hung on the hinges, its free movement is checked. For an insulated entrance door, three hinges are used.
Sealing the structure - the gap between the box and the wall is filled with polyurethane foam, while the canvas must be in a closed state. Then platbands are attached around the box.
The polyurethane foam needs to be squeezed out little by little so that after it swells, large protruding pieces do not stick out

Video: installation of a purchased wooden door with a frame

Features of operation

When buying an entrance door, it is important to pay attention to what materials it is made of and how high quality it is. And if the door is installed correctly, then during its operation it remains to adhere to the following recommendations:

Despite the emergence of a wide variety of construction materials, wood has not gone out of fashion for many centuries. The reasons for such popularity lie in its unique qualities of this material to create comfort in the house and transform its appearance. Important advantages of wood include its environmental friendliness, low thermal conductivity and, with proper processing, enviable durability. Modern technologies and tools provide new opportunities in wood processing, bringing its surface to perfection and simultaneously emphasizing its natural beauty.

Insulated wooden entrance doors of various types different models and design can be found in specialized stores or ordered from specialized companies involved in wood processing and manufacturing door sets from it. However, if you wish and have the basic technological skills to perform carpentry work, it is quite possible to make a wooden door with insulation yourself.

Moreover, it should be noted that if the wood itself has high quality and the necessary pre-treatment, during the door manufacturing process you can do without expensive professional tools. Of course, in this case, the work will take more time and effort, but by doing the assembly yourself, you can save a decent amount.

As you know, during the cold season, heat loss occurs from a house heated from the inside through various elements of the building’s structure, and doors are no exception. This means that the total amount of thermal energy loss directly depends on how well the door and its frame are made and insulated.

Types of entrance doors

Paneled door

Wooden panel doors can be made entirely from natural wood or laminated veneer lumber, but are often used composite materials, for example, MDF - for the manufacture of panels. This model is also suitable for installation at the entrance, but it is still most often used for doorways of apartments or in private houses located in regions with a mild winter climate. Often, in order to use such a structure as an entrance, an insulating material covered with leatherette is placed on it from the inside.

Paneled doors themselves are not a sufficiently “warm” assembly, since the parts from which they are made can be made of different materials, have different thickness, density, thermal conductivity qualities.

If the canvas is assembled from various types of wood, differing in color and textured pattern, then in order to achieve aesthetics and harmony appearance, the parts are covered with natural veneer, which further reduces the thermal conductivity of the material.

The paneled structure is made of solid or laminated timber; it includes an upper, lower, one or more middle horizontal crossbars and a vertical centerpiece (there can also be one or more). Horizontal cross members serve as “stiffening ribs” for the canvas, and the more of these elements are installed, the lower the risk of deformation of the structure.

The structural elements are connected to each other by a tenon joint and then fastened with dowels.

Panels made of MDF or natural boards, processed along the edges with a milling cutter. The thickness of the edges of the panel panels should be approximately ⅓ of the frame timber. The panels are installed in the grooves selected for them in the frame timber or secured with a figured glazing bead.

It should be noted that despite the fact that a paneled door consists of numerous elements glued together, if it is of high quality, it is in no way inferior to a massive one in terms of reliability and strength.

Paneled doors made by real craftsmen sometimes have a cost that exceeds the prices of massive structures, since much in determining this criterion depends on the type of material used and the aesthetic design.

Frame and panel door structures

Frame entrance doors can be called the most common option, since they are generally affordable. There are, of course, quite expensive models - this parameter will depend on the materials from which the structure frame, its filling and finishing are made.

The frames of this type of door are made of solid boards or laminated veneer lumber. For outer skin they use MDF, fiberboard or lining made of natural wood, 10 mm thick, of different widths, which are installed horizontally, vertically, diagonally, or formed from it in various geometric patterns. A variety of materials are used as insulating filler. They are guided by this criterion when choosing a door according to the location of its installation or according to the climatic conditions of the region. Thus, polystyrene foam, mineral wool, shavings, cardboard or paper honeycomb are used as insulation materials.

Sometimes the frame consists only of strapping timber, and the space between the two sheathing panels is filled with low-grade lumber.

Frame or panel door structures can be solid, hollow or small hollow:

They are called shield solid structures doors, that is, a shield is assembled from unedged or low-quality timber, which is sheathed on both sides with fiberboard or MDF. As a rule, wooden lining is not used in this type of door, otherwise the door will turn out to be overly massive. A similar structure can be used as an entrance only for high-rise apartments, since the entrance premises themselves are a certain barrier that blocks the street cold. But even in such conditions of the entrance, good owners sheathe the door with insulating material in combination with leatherette.

A hollow door, which consists of a frame and one or two crossbars, sheathed with fiberboard, MDF or clapboard. The space between the facing sheets remains empty. It follows from this that this door is in no way suitable for installation at the entrance of a house or apartment. Its purpose is to separate the interior spaces.

Small-hollow structures can have different fillings, including thermal insulation material. But if such a door is planned to be installed at the entrance, it makes sense to completely fill its cavity using insulation with low thermal conductivity - polystyrene foam, mineral wool, polyurethane foam, and in combination with them you can also use foil-coated polyethylene foam.

Having figured out what each type of door installed on the entrance door is, you can choose one of them for independent production. First of all, to carry out this process you will need to stock up on tools and materials.

Tools for work

For any carpentry work you must have special tools. Even if it is not possible to purchase expensive modern devices, it is quite possible to get by with a classic manual set.

Despite the advent of modern electrified tools, “classic” hand tools also do not go out of use.

For ease of work, you will need a reliable and stable workbench on which the manufacturing, processing and assembly of structural parts will be carried out.
The work will be extremely simplified if the owner has a router in his set of power tools. It will help you accurately and efficiently process the wood, give the desired shape and size to door parts, select grooves and sockets, and even decorate the canvas with some kind of relief design. If this tool is not available, then you can use milling drills by installing them in a screwdriver or drill. Previously, when such convenient devices did not exist at all, carpenters used chisels and cutters of various configurations for these purposes. So if you can’t purchase a router, stock up on a set of chisels.

A hand plane can also, in certain cases, replace milling machine. They are used to level and adjust parts to size, cut off corners (chamfers) if necessary, and perform other technological operations.
In order for the door elements to be glued together efficiently and firmly, it is impossible to do without clamps that will tighten the parts assembled into the canvas.
To make the blanks you will need hacksaws.
You need hammers - regular and rubber (or wooden - mallet).
The final finish will require an electric sander and sandpaper. The grinder can be replaced with a small piece of block onto which sandpaper is nailed or screwed.
To assemble the structure, install locks and hinges, drill holes for dowels or screws, a screwdriver is required. As a last resort, you can get by with a drill and a set of screwdrivers.
Measuring and marking equipment is required - a tape measure, a ruler, a folding meter, and, of course, a carpenter's corner, a simple pencil or a marker.

Materials for making a door

To make a door you will need materials that need to be prepared in advance:

Wood - according to size, grade and quantity, lumber is selected individually for each type of product.
Special wood glue.
Self-tapping screws of various lengths and wooden dowels. Usually by professional craftsmen They are used to secure wooden parts together. But some manufacturers prefer metal corners and overlays.
Insulation material.

It should be noted that each type of door may require Additional materials– they will be mentioned when describing the order of making models.

How to choose wood?

So that the door lasts for a long time and has not dried out or become deformed, the choice of wood must be approached with all responsibility. Main material designs are selected according to the following criteria:

The type of wood is selected depending on the type of structure and financial capabilities. If a massive door is to be manufactured without additional insulation, then it is worth choosing more expensive types of material that have a high density - this could be oak or cedar, larch or the wood of some fruit trees.
To make a solid or paneled door leaf, commercial wood with a minimum number of knots is purchased. For lining the frame structure, wood of a lower grade can be chosen, but if it is sheathed wooden clapboard, That facing material must be of the highest quality.
It is important to choose lumber that has optimal humidity- it should be 11÷15%. Only in this case will the material be easy to process, and products made from it will serve long time without deforming, swelling or drying out. The most the best option will be wood that has been dried in a special chamber.

When choosing lumber Special attention- their grade, degree of drying and evenness

When purchasing, each of the boards (beams) is checked for evenness. This process is carried out visually, or even better - by laying the purchased parts on a flat surface. So all the shortcomings will be immediately noticeable.
In order for the finished door leaf to have a thickness of 50 mm, you need to choose:

- for a massive door - a board 50 mm thick;

- for a frame door sheathed with five-millimeter fibreboard, a beam or board of 40 mm, and sheathed with ten-millimeter clapboard - 30 mm thick;

- for the strapping and crossbars of the paneled fabric, you will need a board 50 mm thick, and for panels, depending on their design - from 15 ÷ 20 mm.

In order for the structure to have good rigidity, it is better to choose boards for tying or making the entire fabric with a width of 120÷150 mm.

Before installation, all boards and bars must be processed with a grinder, installing fine-grained sandpaper on it, or manually.

What insulation should I use?

Since, basically, all homeowners prefer to insulate their entrance doors, you should also consider which thermal insulation materials are most often used for these purposes.

Prices for Zetta entrance doors

Zetta door

Whichever one is chosen, in order to enhance the insulating effect and prevent drafts from entering the premises, it is necessary to seal the door frame. For this, mounting foams, special foam rubber self-adhesive pads or PSUL tapes (pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tapes) are most often used. Any of these options will do for all types of doors.

The most common insulation materials for thermal insulation of the entrance door leaf:

Material parameters	Izolon (polyethylene foam)	Expanded polystyrene	Mineral wool
Compressive strength at 10% deformation, not less (KPa)	0.031÷0.33	40÷160	-
Density, kg/m³	25÷200	15÷50	11÷50
Thermal conductivity coefficient at 25±5˚С (W/(m×°K)	0.031÷0.037	0.038÷0.041	0.036÷0.043
Water absorption, % by volume, not less	1.0÷1.5	1.8÷4.0	10÷15
Flammability group	G2÷G4	G2÷G4	NG÷G1

Mineral wool has high thermal insulation characteristics and is often used for internal insulation of frame doors. Its disadvantage is that it tends to sag over time, exposing some areas of the space between the sheeting. To prevent this phenomenon, it is advisable to glue mineral wool mats to waterproof glue, distributing it in strips on the insulated surface. Mineral wool mats are produced that are equipped with a foil layer - this version of the material is more expensive, but its thermal insulation characteristics are much higher. In addition, due to the foil layer, the insulation becomes more rigid, therefore reducing the risk of shrinkage.

Foam rubber up to 10 mm thick is used for external insulation doors from the inside of the room, followed by closing it with leatherette or leatherette covering, which is secured with decorative nails.

How to insulate an already finished door?

To do this you can do it decorative upholstery with laying thin insulating material underneath. How to do it correctly - read in a separate publication on our portal.

Izolon, a foil-clad polyethylene foam, shows good insulating qualities.

Izolon or foamed polyethylene has high insulation characteristics, and a version of this material tends to reflect heat into the room, so it is very widely used for thermal insulation. Izolon is somewhat reminiscent of foam rubber, but is more effective, and can be used in combination with other insulating materials. It is used to enhance internal insulation and for fastening to the inner surface of the door under decorative trim.

Most inexpensive option- use polystyrene foam to insulate the door

Expanded polystyrene also has good thermal insulation qualities. In addition, it fits tightly between frame elements and does not change its shape throughout the entire period of operation. However, we should not forget that this material over time begins to emit formaldehyde, which is harmful to human health. In addition, polystyrene foam cannot be called fireproof.

Polyurethane foam is perfect for thermal insulation of the internal space of a frame door, as it completely seals all joints of parts, penetrating into any gap. When using this material, it is not necessary to use complex equipment - you can simply use polyurethane foam, which has an easy-to-use packaging. Excess polyurethane foam rising above the frame can be easily cut off with a sharp knife.

Find out detailed instructions on how to do this from a new article on our portal.

Manufacturing and insulation of paneled doors

This type of door consists of a considerable number of parts, and each of them has a rather complex shape. Therefore, in order for the assembly of elements into a single fabric to be of high quality, all parts must be very carefully manufactured to size and processed with high quality. If all these operations are carried out manually, then the manufacture of the door leaf will take a lot of time. In the case where there is no significant experience in wood processing, but you still decide to make the door yourself, you should not choose complex designs- it would be better to choose a simple one and affordable option frame type.

Illustration
	It will be easier to carry out the work if you draw up a detailed drawing of the product and put dimensions on it. In the presented drawing you can see the simplest version of a paneled door with minimum quantity connecting seams, since the fabric contains only two panels. The individual parts are numbered and named: 1-horizontal upper mullion included in the trim; 2-top panel; 3-vertical strapping bars; 4-middle; 5-bottom panel; 6- horizontal lower mullion, included in the harness. This drawing does not contain dimensions, but from it it becomes clear what parameters need to be calculated when drawing up a project for the manufacture of such a product, putting down the data necessary for a specific doorway.
	To make the trim and mullions, you need to prepare a massive or laminated timber, but if you choose the second option of material, you should take into account that due to the glue it will be more difficult to process. The finished, well-planed timber is processed on one side with a milling cutter. A groove is cut into it for installing panels into it and connecting the parts to each other. In some cases, shaped cuts are made along the edges of the groove - chamfers. They will replace the glazing bead that secures the panel panel. If glazing beads are used, the edges of the timber can be left smooth. In addition, if insulation is attached to the inside of the paneled door, then the wooden parts can be “finished” only from the outer edge.
	Next, you need to work on the connecting elements, since you will have to fasten the horizontal and vertical elements strapping and (for the model shown in the drawing) one mullion. To do this, a tenon of the required size is cut out with a milling cutter in the horizontal elements along the edges, and corresponding grooves are cut in the vertical elements. The tenon and groove should have a thickness of ⅓ the size of the timber used. The connection can be different, and which one to choose based on ease of manufacture is up to the master to decide. The grooves cut in the horizontal beams must fit perfectly with the tenons, and the parts must fit tightly together. In order for this work to be done accurately, precise markings must be made before starting it.
	Panels, as mentioned above, are made of chipboard, boards or MDF. If boards are selected, the panel from them is assembled (glued, tightened with clamps and dried) in advance. Plywood with a thickness of 20 mm can be processed immediately after the groove-tenon joints are made. If the inner side of the canvas is insulated, then the panels can be processed only from the outside.
	Sometimes a panel blank can be assembled in thickness from two or three layers, which allows its middle part to be raised to the level of the thickness of the trim beam. In this option, curly overlays are glued on both sides or only on one side to the middle, flat plywood panel. Such panels are glued together under a press, as they must form one whole panel. The middle layer of the panel must be adjusted to the groove, which is located in the strapping bars and the centerpiece. To ensure that the part fits freely into the groove, its thickness is made 1-2 mm less than the width of the groove.
	After all the door parts have been made, it is advisable to treat them separately with antiseptic and fire-retardant impregnations; if necessary, immediately cover them with stain and dry them.
	After drying the parts, you can begin to assemble them into a single piece. This work should be carried out on a flat, durable table (workbench). To be sure, before “planting” the parts on wood glue, they are assembled dry. If all the tenons fit tightly into the grooves, and the assembly results in a perfectly even door leaf structure, then you can proceed to assembly using glue. The evenness of the door is checked by measuring it along the diagonals and comparing the resulting lengths - they must be the same.
	To ensure that the work goes smoothly, it is carried out in stages: - the first step is to glue a horizontal trim piece into one of the vertical bars; - next, a panel is glued into the resulting right angle and gently tapped with a rubber hammer until the tenons fit tightly into the grooves of the horizontal and vertical bars; - after this, a centerpiece is installed in the middle groove of the vertical beam and the lower side of the panel with glue, and also tapped with a rubber hammer; - then, a second panel is glued into the mullion and vertical beam; - further to the lower part of the panel and the lower groove in vertical beam the second horizontal part of the harness is mounted; - the final and most difficult stage of assembly is the installation of the last vertical side of the trim; you must immediately install the tenons of the crossbars and mullion into it, as well as the unclosed sides of the panels.
	While the glue has not dried, the entire structure can still be adjusted. To do this, you first need to check the dimensions of the diagonals of the structure again - if they are the same length, then this means that the corners of the canvas are right. Additionally, the corners are checked using a construction angle. After making sure that the canvas is glued evenly, it is clamped into clamps until the glue dries completely.
	Only after the canvas has dried, the binding at the corners and at the connection with the center is fastened with dowels. To do this, two diagonally placed through holes the size of which will be larger diameter dowel by 1÷1.5 mm. The dowels are lubricated with glue and carefully driven into the holes. After the glue has dried, the bonding area is cleaned and, if necessary, covered with putty.
	Having completed these steps, the panels are framed with glazing beads. They are also fixed with wood glue, but to be sure, you can also use inconspicuous nails, for example, by biting off their heads.
	Next, the door leaf is marked to create holes and slots into which the fittings will be installed - locks, handles and hinges.
	Using the markings, holes are drilled in the door leaf into which the fittings are fitted, but they will be installed after painting and insulating the door leaf.
	If the door is planned to be painted or varnished, then this process is carried out in the sequence shown in the diagram. To ensure that the painting looks neat, you need to make sure that the paint does not pool in the corners. Even if the paneled door is planned to be insulated from the inside, painting is done on both sides of the door, as this will create an additional layer of protection for the wood. Insulation is carried out after the paint has completely dried.
	If the door has not yet been installed in the opening, it will be easier to insulate and sheathe it finishing material, but it will also not be difficult to insulate a fabric already hung on hinges. For insulation you will need foam rubber; if desired, isolon, leatherette, and decorative nails can be used with it. Foam rubber is laid out on the door leaf, measured right size and cut off the excess. Since the insulation will subsequently be nailed to wooden surface, it can be temporarily fixed to Double-sided tape. After this, holes are marked and cut out in the heat insulator for the peephole and installation of locks and handles.
	If more effective insulation is required, then isolon is laid on top of the foam with the foil side up. If two materials are used in combination, their common layer should not have a thickness of more than 15 mm. In isolon, just like in foam rubber, you will need to cut holes, and then the material is secured to a wooden surface using staples, but not along the very edge of the canvas, but with a distance of 20÷25 mm from it. Leatherette is placed on top of the insulation and is also secured in several places. If the door is sheathed “in weight”, then all materials begin to be attached from above, gradually falling down.
	It should be clarified that the trim on a door that opens outward differs from the trim on a door that opens inward. The photo shows a version of the door that opens inward. To insulate it, in addition to the general sheathing fabric, use leatherette strips 180÷200 mm wide, which should protrude about half beyond the fabric. Then these strips are bent in half, and a foam roller or a piece of foam rubber is placed inside them. Next, the lower part of the bent strip is tucked under the insulation laid over the entire surface, and its upper part is laid on top of the leatherette, bent inward by 10 mm and secured with decorative nails. G The holes are hammered at a distance of 100÷150 mm from each other.
	If the door opens outward, then a strip with a foam roller is nailed to the door frame from inside the apartment. The fixed strip should protrude beyond the frame by 20÷25 mm, since it should tightly cover the gap between the door leaf and the frame elements.
	In this option, leatherette is nailed onto the surface of the door, retreating from its edge by 10÷15 mm - this must be observed in order for the door to fit tightly against the posts and crossbars of the door jamb.
	Locks and handles, as well as a viewing eye, are installed on top of the leatherette upholstery. The cut uneven edges of the material are tucked inside the holes prepared for installing the lock.
	How to correctly install the hardware elements, and what size gaps need to be provided between the door frame and the leaf, can be seen in this diagram. You can also clearly see how the box itself is assembled. Using the marked places on the end of the door, the required grooves are selected and the door hinges are screwed on. Then the door is installed in the door frame, on which the mating parts of the hinged hinges are already marked and screwed.

It can also be noted here that a massive door, if necessary, is insulated in exactly the same way.

Manufacturing and insulation of frame doors

A panel door, just like a paneled or solid one, is insulated from the outside - its internal space is completely filled with low-quality wood - this may not be edged timber or a board assembled into a panel and sheathed on the outside with fiberboard or thin plywood.

A frame door consists of a frame and several crossbars or diagonally installed spacers, between which insulation material is placed - mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, or the space is completely filled with polyurethane foam. The entire structure of the entrance frame door is sheathed on the outside with wooden clapboard. Some craftsmen install a thin metal sheet under the lining, which will make the door more reliable.

If desired, the surface facing the premises can be sheathed with fiberboard, and then additionally insulated with foam rubber, followed by upholstery with leatherette.

This door option can be called the most economical and easiest to manufacture.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	Before making calculations of the material, it is necessary to decide how the lining will be located, with which the door leaf will be sheathed, since this will determine how to install the frame cross members.
	If the entire lining will be fixed vertically, then it is enough to install one or two crossbars. Horizontal lining requires the installation of two vertical bars inside the lining. If the cladding has a more complex pattern, consisting of small elements, then for each of them it is necessary to provide support bars to which each of the pattern elements will be attached on both sides.
	Whatever cladding is planned, the first step is to assemble a reliable frame. Parts from timber of the required length are prepared for it.
	At the corners, the timber may have different connections. Sometimes the “groove-tenon” method is used, but it is easier to use the “half-tree” or “paw” methods shown in the presented diagram. Taking into account the fact that the entire structure will be covered with clapboard, which will give it additional rigidity, such connections are quite suitable for fastening strapping bars. To ensure that the length of the groove is the same and the cut is even, you first need to mark the edges of the timber. The depth of the grooves should be half the thickness of the timber.
	Having prepared the strapping elements, you need to make the internal parts of the frame, according to a pre-drawn drawing. Crossbars or vertical bars can be connected to the harness using the connections mentioned above, or using metal angles. Before installation, all beam connections are coated with glue and aligned along the construction corner. The structure is compressed with clamps and left to dry.
	When the glue is completely dry, two holes are drilled at the joints, into which wooden dowels are carefully driven. The drilled holes should have a diameter of 10-12 mm, respectively, the diameter of the dowel can be 1-1.5 mm less so that it fits into the hole quite freely. Before hammering it in, it is coated with glue. The part of the dowel protruding from above is cut off only after the glue has dried.
	If the strapping beam is not wide enough, then in the area where the lock is installed it is necessary to make an inlay from the timber.
	Next, the side of the frame that will go into the hallway is sheathed with one of the selected materials. Most often, fiberboard or plywood with a thickness of 5–8 mm is chosen, but some craftsmen prefer to cover both sides with clapboard 10 mm thick.
	The lining must be well processed and have a beautiful textured pattern, only in this case the door will look respectable. The lining must be coated with an antiseptic composition and a fire retardant, then allowed to absorb and dry.
	Insulation is carried out after all elements have been dried. To do this, one of the thermal insulation materials is placed between the timber battens. If mineral wool is chosen, it is best to fix it with glue, which is applied to the inside of the sheathing. It is also recommended to attach a rolled isolon - a foamed foil material, 3÷5 mm thick - on top of the cotton wool. The foil should be facing towards the room. Izolon can be secured to frame elements using staples and a stapler.
	When using foam plastic for thermal insulation, it is cut into separate pieces that have the size and shape of the space between the frame beams - the material should fit snugly against it. However, between foam and wooden elements Gaps will still form, and they need to be filled with polyurethane foam - it will additionally fix the insulation in the frame.
	The best and convenient option The insulation of the frame door is foil-lined mineral wool. It is laid with foil towards the room to reflect heat into the room. This material can be cut well with a sharp knife, and the foil gives the material additional rigidity.
	The next step is covering the second side of the door leaf with clapboard. To make the finish look neat and complete, it is recommended to attach a frame made of clapboard around the perimeter of the canvas, and elements according to the selected pattern are already installed inside it. The lining strips are connected to each other using a tongue-and-groove connection and secured to the frame with 20 mm nails or self-tapping screws, which are driven or screwed into the groove of the installed panel. You can use special metal holders - clamps - for fastening. They are installed on the lower “flange” of the groove, and through them the lining is secured to the frame. After covering, such fastening becomes completely invisible.
	Next, the door is installed in the door frame, and the installation locations for the hinges are marked. Then, based on their size at the end of the door panel and on the frame, select desired depth wood, since the hinge plates must be located flush with the surfaces of the parts to which they are attached.
	After hanging the door on its hinges, markings are made for installing the lock and handle. The lock is applied to the canvas, where the depth of its installation is noted, and on the end part - the width and height of the groove to be knocked out. After this, the appropriate “socket” for the lock is selected using chisels and a drill or a router. In the latter case, the canvas will have to be removed and laid in a horizontal position. A lock is inserted and secured into the finished hole. Then grooves for the lock bolts are cut out in the door frame, and the corresponding metal plates are attached.
	An insulating tape made of foam rubber or silicone is glued to the door frame around the perimeter of the door frame. Thanks to this seal, the door will fit tightly to the frame when closed, which will significantly reduce the risk of a draft.

Having become familiar with the nuances of insulation, everyone House master he can choose the method of thermal insulation himself. So, if you plan to insulate an already finished door, you can use foam rubber or polyethylene foam in combination with leatherette. Well, if you plan to make this product yourself, then the frame option will be the most affordable even for a novice craftsman who has not yet gained sufficient experience in carpentry practice. And let the video lesson below help him:

Video: making a simple insulated frame-type door

We invite you to visit the Exhibition " Beautiful houses"from March 12-15 at the Crocus Expo IEC, where we will present:

1. Insulated entrance block "Standard" series. Color of St. wenge, model "Classic+", block size 970*2070mm. opening right

2. Insulated entrance block "Standard" series. Ral 9010 color + brushing, “CUBE” model, block size 970*2070mm. opening right

3. Insulated entrance block, new for 2020, “Ultra” series. 100mm thick, 3 sealing contours, combined coloring, exclusive design

phone/whatsapp/viber for communication +79128266663 Stand D37-1

ps: Sections of all produced series of doors will also be presented

pss: Samples can be purchased at a discount

psss: Any suggestions? let us know!

"Cold" metal? Or “Warm” wood?

Why do you think the trend of installing insulated wooden entrance doors has increased so much over the past couple of years?

Those who built their house 5-7 years ago will give an answer right away, because they themselves were faced with the fact that iron doors cannot cope with the Russian winter.

It doesn’t matter at all what the manufacturer is, what the cost of the door is, one serious problem arises.

With the onset of winter, along the contour metal door, water appears, and in frosty conditions ice builds up, like in an old freezer.

Because of which?

Metal has high thermal conductivity and therefore in winter on the inside of the door, the temperature of the metal near zero or even below, although in the corridor you have +24.

And we don’t sit at home all day long.

Coming from the street, there will be snow on your shoes, which will melt and then evaporate and condense on your front door.

All the water eventually drains onto the floor or flows through the cracks into the door itself.

What's scary about this?

But after 2-4 years, the enamel from your door will fall off due to corrosion.

Rusty doors don't look very nice.

Insulated wooden entrance doors are the only alternative to metal doors

Nothing stands still, technologies and opportunities are always moving forward.

Over the past 3-4 years, there has appeared great amount innovations, many new components have been created, using which we make doors more reliable, more beautiful and easier to use.

In every industry there are cheaper and more expensive products, and finding compromises takes a lot of time. We are ready to offer you three well-designed series of warm, floating entrance doors.

Basic information:

Material - solid pine. It can also be made from valuable species wood (oak, beech, ash), please check the price additionally
Blade thickness - 80mm, 100 and 120mm
Number of seal circuits- 2 and 3 groove seal circuits
Internal filling-PPU or Penoplex
Block size - any. 90% of cases to fit the opening size
The coating is either opaque, with paints according to the RAL catalog, or non-opaque, dye + varnish. All paint and varnish products for outdoor use.
Appearance - any model from the catalog
Production time- from 10 working days

The cost of a door block with the block size (box size finished product) up to 1000mm in width, up to 2100mm in height and with a frame for a wall depth of 105mm

	Series "Standard"	Series "Baguette 80"	Series "Baguette 100"	Series "Baguette 120"
Blade thickness	80mm	80mm	100mm	120mm
Box width	105mm	105mm	120mm	140mm
Number of circuits seals	2 circuits 18mm wide	2 circuits 18mm wide	3 circuits 18mm wide	3 circuits 18mm wide
Canopy type and quantity		3D detachable hinges with adjustments
Accessories	Castle Guardian 10.11, handle, lining	Castle Guardian 10.11, handle, lining	Calais Castle 252RL, handle, lining	Calais Castle 252RL, handle, lining
Insulation inside the canvas	PPU 10-30mm	Penoplex 40mm	Penoplex 40mm	Penoplex 60mm
Installation of double-glazed windows	impossible	possible without extra charge	possible without extra charge	possible without extra charge
Production time	about 20 working days	about 10 working days	about 10 working days	about 20 working days
Cost per block	43,000 rubles	56,000 rubles	66,000 rubles	94500 rubles

Promotion! Happy winter 2020

Delivery as a gift!!!

Free storage!!!

From 2 doors additional bonuses!!!

If the dimensions of the block exceed 1000*2100mm, then there is a surcharge of 10% for the excess in 1 plane (or width or height) and 15% if the excess is in two planes.

Additionally available to order:

- Access to any opening depth(wall thickness), cost 180 rubles for every centimeter over 110/120/140mm. Calculation example: Wall thickness 230mm, 230mm-110mm= 120mm/12cm. 12cm*180 rubles = 2160 rubles cost of addition

- Platband in the following sizes:

70mm - 1000 rubles on one side / 2000 rubles on both sides
90mm - 1250 rubles on one side / 2500 rubles on both sides
120mm - 1500 rubles on one side / 3000 rubles on both sides
140mm - 1750 rubles on one side / 3500 rubles on both sides

- Additional lock for a lever key 1000-1500 rubles or for a cylinder mechanism 1500-2500 rubles

Replace the main lock with a KALE 252 lock(level key) - 2000 rubles

- Installation of 3D hinges with adjustments- 3000 rubles

- Latch night guard- 600 rubles

Complex model from the catalog, or according to a sketch from 1500 rubles

- Painting on both sides V different colors- 1500 rubles

Brushing - 2500 rubles

Oak threshold - 2000 rubles

- Metal threshold protection- 500 rubles

Painting with white enamel - 2000 rubles

- Painting according to RAL catalog- 3000 rubles. Bright and rich colors (yellow, red, blue, etc.) may vary in price.

Details about the series of insulated entrance doors:

The greater the distance between the seal contours, the better protection from freezing

All series of doors are manufactured with overlay

What is "float"?

This is a profiled door element designed to install a sealing contour that lies on the plane of the frame, thereby closing the gap in the rebate.

Why is this “float” needed, and what is the use of it?

Firstly, he completely closes the gap along the perimeter of the door, the wind does not blow there, water or snow does not get in. The entire thickness of the canvas works against freezing. The fittings and coating are completely protected from the environment.

Secondly, it allows you to position sealing contours at maximum distance from each other.

Thirdly, in doors with “floating”, the light opening inside the box does not decrease, due to the additional quarter for the second circuit, as in non-floating options. These are the same centimeter or two that are not enough in width when you need to add a new clearance household appliances or furniture.

You can also indicate in the fourth, fifth, and so on, but there is no point in this anymore.

Series "Standard"

This series is a standard solution not only for us, but also for most other manufacturers, where the door leaf is first assembled and then completely painted.

Pros of this series:

Any model from the catalog

Possibility of manufacturing different models outside and inside

Affordable price

Cons of this series:

Silent performance only

The inner part of the door, as well as the junction points of the elements, remain unpainted

Production time

Example of insulated entrance doors of the "Standard" series:

There are two main differences from the “Standard” series:

The doors are made with a baguette frame, with which the door not only looks more solid and richer, but also allows each element of the door to be painted separately. Baguette frame It is firmly attached after painting using hidden fasteners without damaging the varnish layer.
Element-by-element painting. All elements of the canvas are first painted, and then the canvas is assembled.

Pros of this series:

The design is both solid and with double-glazed windows. Double-glazed windows can be installed up to 60mm thick

All elements of the canvas, as well as the junction points, are painted, the effect of moisture on the wood is minimal.

Production time

Appearance

Cons of this series:

Not every model can be made. There is no possibility of manufacturing different models from different sides.

Price

The following models from our catalog are available for order: “Classic”, “Classic+”, “Dominique”, “Adele”, “Classic”, as well as variations of these models with strict vertical and horizontal lines.

Example of insulated entrance doors of the "Baguette" series

Insulated entrance door without double glazing




Standard lock Guardian 10.11 Latch night guard

Let's talk a little about compaction e Lyakh

I think you noticed that we use 2 types of seal, both grooved and both 18mm wide.

For the outer contour, a thin, 3mm seal is used. Smaller area of interaction with environment, more protection from snow/water/wind/cold

For the internal contour, we specially developed and ordered a silicone tubular groove seal D profile. This seal has a compression of 4 mm, which ensures 100% adherence of the internal contour to the plane of the canvas.

The estimated service life of the seals is 50 years.

What kind of awnings do we offer?

Today, the choice of hinges for overlaid doors leaves much to be desired. And they can be divided into 3 types:

Screw-in. Approximate load 30kg per loop. They have adjustments, but there is no burglary resistance.And after a year or two the canvas sags. Better to put on interior doors
Invoices. These are installed on aluminum and plastic entrance doors. Reliable, adjustable, with a load of up to 50 kg per 1 loop, but very ugly.
Mortise. We install these hinges on our doors and there are only two types. Below is a comparison table:

	Palladium 401, Three loops which installed in the base on the doors with 80mm blade	Hinges 3D hinges, replacement of basic ones loops for 2 data loops +3000 rubles
Color	Gold, chrome, bronze	white, matte chrome, chrome, matte gold, gold, bronze brown
60/90 kg	120/150kg
Adjustments	No	Available in 3 planes +/-2.5mm
Production	Factory China	Europe
Detachable hinges or not	No	Yes
Maximum compaction width from the hinge side	12mm	18mm
Is the seal breaking in place? attaching the loop to the canvas	Yes	No, the seal forms a closed outline around the canvas
Peculiarities		Greater opening angle due to hinge design Gapfrom the side of the castle,betweencanvas and a box,can be increasedby 5mm, by adjusting the hinges

Palladium 401

Summarize. 3D hinges are much more advantageous in relation to basic hinges, but the cost of the hinges themselves is several times higher. On door blocks with a 100mm blade and made of valuable species, these hinges are installed in the base

Loops 3D is required for installation on:

Door block height above 2200mm

Door block wider than 1050mm

Door blocks where the estimated weight of the leaf will exceed 80 kg (for example, installation of forged grilles)

Examples of doors and their elements manufactured by us

Brushed + Oil painting

Brushing + complex color with patina

Brushing + painting RAL 1013

Input groups of various configurations

Brushing + complex color

Lock Kale 252 RL

Lock Kale 257 + armor plate

Hinged entrance insulated door

One and a half insulated entrance door with transom

Series "Standard" color RAL 5018

Series "Baguette 100" RAL color

Series "Baguette 100" RAL color

Model "Quadro", based on the "Baguette 80" series

Outside color RAL 8024, inside white enamel

Series "Standard" External painting according to RAL 8017

Series "Standard" Izrutri painting St. teak

Budget insulated entrance door option

Why do iron doors freeze?

This is a fairly common question and now we will briefly look at it.

Standard version of iron entrance door

In the sketch we see that the box and the canvas in the vestibule are made of iron, which creates a closed circuit that is in contact with both the street and the room at the same time.

Although the thickness of the metal is not particularly large, the difference in thermal conductivity of the insulation inside the door and the metal itself varies in 650 times!

No matter how thick the iron door is, the metal around the perimeter of the door will freeze, this is physics.

Do all iron doors freeze?

From manufacturers iron doors The issue of freezing of the front door is acute and they are looking for a solution.

It’s not difficult to guess that in order to prevent the doors from freezing, you need to make sure that the metal from the street does not come into contact with the metal inside the room. Eliminate any cold bridges and make a thermal break.

Moreover, there should be a thermal break both on the canvas and on the box.

Here is the solution. But the cost of implementing the solution is quite high.

What will increase the service life of your front door?

If you want your front door to last a long time and look presentable all the time, then you need to protect it as much as possible from precipitation and sunlight.

The easiest way is a canopy or canopy.

This is protection not only for the door, but also for you. In the rain, you can safely open the door without fear of getting wet, without fuss and haste.

But more often than not, even the design of the house includes a porch.

If the canopy is more designed for 1-2 people, then a large family can fit on the porch.

Is a cold vestibule necessary or is it overkill?

Why is it needed, because you can install an entrance door made of wood and that will be enough. And this is more acceptable for the southern regions.

But if we ignore the fact that we remove the excess load from the door in the form of heat exchange and humidity, we get the following.

The vestibule makes it possible to save money by eliminating the through flow of air, simply a draft. IN winter period, due to the sequential opening of doors, only a limited amount of cold air enters the house.

You can also leave street clothes and shoes in it, which is especially important in the off-season. You can also store various tools or a child’s stroller and sled there.

What are the disadvantages of insulated solid wood entrance doors?

No matter what you do, wood is no competitor to metal in terms of burglary resistance.

Iron doors were created with this task in mind, to protect your home from thieves and hooligans.

How critical is this in a private home, where glass can easily be broken?

According to statistics, thieves try to do everything quietly. They will not break or make noise, they will check the reliability of your locks.

In general, it is better to entrust the security of your home to an alarm system than to rely on the burglary resistance of one door.

While losing in burglary resistance, we have a mass of wooden doors, like at least 2 times less, iron mass.

Wood is not only lighter, but the thermal conductivity coefficient of dry wood is only 0.15, which is 300 times less than metal.

Low thermal conductivity coefficient eliminates any freezing points each part of the door block.

And at the same time you have many times more options choosing the design and color of your door. You You create the look entirely yourself. your door.

The solid appearance of the front door is excellent will complement the style of your home and at the same time will be in harmony with interior doors.

And all this will happen made from natural material, “living and warm” wood, not “cold” metal.

What is the cost of an insulated entrance door made of natural wood?

Having called about 10 well-known manufacturers of iron doors and found out from them the basic cost of a door with a thermal break, it turned out that the insulated entrance door comes out of solid wood at least 2 times cheaper cost of an iron door.

You can see what your door might look like by looking

The main functionality of external door designs— ensuring home safety and property safety. In Russian conditions this is not enough. In the Russian climate, especially in Siberia, there are cases of freezing. This reduces the service life and leads to inconvenience.

An insulated entrance street door reduces energy costs during the cold period by 30%. Taking into account the average service life of a door - up to 10 years, this provides significant savings over the period of operation.

What an insulated street entrance door should be like will be discussed in this article.

Currently, manufacturers offer three types of entrance doors:

steel metal;
wooden;
plastic doors.

A model is considered insulated if it has a double sealing circuit and insulation. Naturally, this is not enough if you choose insulated entrance doors for a private home. Especially if the place of its operation is Siberia, the Far North or the Far East, and foam rubber or mineral wool is chosen as insulation. There is no uniform GOST for insulated doors of all types. Therefore, many manufacturers use innovative solutions and their own developments, introducing parts and insulation elements into the design.

When choosing an insulated model, you should pay attention to the following characteristics:

number of sealing circuits. They protect against the penetration of cold air and drafts. The more sealing contours a door has, the more airtight it is.
thickness of the canvas. More massive products give off heat more slowly. A massive door is not only additional security, but also a guarantee that it will not freeze in the winter.
Insulation material. Some models of metal doors use foam rubber or mineral wool. The thermal insulation properties of these materials are not great. Naturally, they are not suitable for use as an insulated entrance door for a private home. Although in the characteristics you can find a reference to an insulated design. The price of such an insulated street entrance door is low. IN modern designs polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam are used. Wood fiber is used for expensive and exclusive products.
The thickness of the insulation layer. The thicker the layer, the higher the level of thermal insulation of the room. For massive doors, the thickness of the insulation layer is usually higher than for smaller counterparts.
Number of layers of insulation.
Availability of innovative technologies and design developments: double fabric, use of thermal break technology, absence of contacting metal surfaces etc.

Insulated metal doors

Metal doors can have wood-like interior and exterior panels

Steel doors are manufactured in accordance with GOST 31 173-2003 “Steel door blocks. Specifications" This is the most common segment in the market. A metal door allows you to provide maximum protection to your home from burglary and unauthorized entry. But the material has high heat transfer. Therefore, most innovative technologies have found their application in the creation of outdoor metal insulated entrance doors.

Advantages:

Almost every model has a layer of insulation; you can find designs with a double or even triple layer;
are not exposed to moisture, due to which the insulation retains its properties for a long time;
have no cracks and effectively prevent drafts;
high degree of sealing. Metal models do not warp. This ensures a constant size of the gap between the door frame and the leaf, which is hermetically sealed by two or more sealing contours;
Due to the massiveness and weight of the metal door, the thickness of the filler layer can reach 60 mm or more.
some models have outer and inner fabric, which reduces heat transfer;
The use of thermal break technology allows to reduce the heat transfer rate. In models with two door leaves, the degree of heat transfer is the same as that of wooden counterparts.

Design of a modern insulated door with a thermal break

Wooden insulated doors have low heat transfer. Naturally, this applies to models made of solid wood and treated with special compounds. Some manufacturers make products according to modern technologies from special panels treated mineral compounds and tannins. They do not deform, are not subject to moisture and rotting. A special coating protects against cracks. The service life of such structures reaches twenty years. Becoming the owner of such a door is not a cheap pleasure.

Advantages

Weight and weight are lower than those of metal analogues.
High level of thermal insulation.
The ability to independently correct thermal insulation deficiencies.
Resistance to freezing.

Insulated plastic doors

They are made using Canadian or domestic technology from sandwich panels and have a prefabricated structure. Multilayer structure plastic doors provides sufficient thermal protection of the room. The big disadvantage of such products is the lack of opportunity to introduce innovation. Plastic as a material is not subject to impregnation and exposure to mineral and organic compounds. Has less ability to improve performance than steel with the addition of various alloys. Insulated plastic doors with double sealing contours and polyurethane foam filling are widely used for installation at the entrance to apartments in Central Russia, but are unlikely to replace metal or wooden structures in a private home.

Market Trends

The modern domestic market is moving along the path of improving security and protection against unauthorized entry. Metal street entrance doors have high burglary resistance characteristics. As a result, a large number of insulated models are made of steel.

New insulated models are manufactured taking into account the following trends:

The use of quality and modern materials as insulation.

For example, thermal insulation properties of such material as isolon is ten times higher than that of mineral wool or foam rubber.

The use of several types of insulation and, accordingly, an increase in the number of layers.
Introduction of new technologies. For example, products made using thermal break technology do not have contacting external and internal metal parts. This allows you to achieve the same thermal insulation characteristics, like their wooden counterparts.
Increase in the number of sealing circuits and the use of innovative sealing materials.

Models of foreign and domestic producers. They all position themselves in the market differently.

Stardis doors

Manufacturers such as Zenit and Granit operate in the inexpensive segment of the market and present their consumers with the best offer in terms of price-quality ratio. An insulated door Zenit, Stardis or Granite will have two sealing contours and one layer of inexpensive filler. Insulated metal doors of the Forpost or Condor brands have a higher price. Models from these manufacturers have high-quality insulation and an additional sealing circuit.

Manufacturers such as Gerda, Fortis, Superlock position themselves as manufacturers of burglary-resistant structures. Burglar-resistant models have high-quality materials and components, and several sealing contours.

Door manufacturer Imperial offers products with high-quality finishing from natural materials, paying little attention to the thermal insulation of their products. Excellent results show insulated Thermo and Torex models, made using innovative technologies. With the advent of thermal break technology, Thermo universal doors have become the market leader.

Conclusion

The range of products on the market is quite wide and varied. This allows the consumer to do right choice for all occasions. Universal option for operation in the cold climate of Russia - purchase insulated entrance doors from a domestic manufacturer.

Despite the large selection of materials, wood still remains in demand in many areas. Home improvement is no exception, as this material has many advantages over others. Insulated wooden entrance doors can be various types and designs, made factory, to order or with your own hands. Heat loss will depend on the quality of the insulation of the fabric and lining.

Entrance doors are various designs, each of which is manufactured according to different technologies. There are these types warm doors:

massive;
frame or panel;
paneled.

Array

This type of door is made from boards 5 cm thick or more. They are combined using a tongue and groove connection. External sides decorated with carvings, imitation panels or left smooth. Hardwoods are used for entrance doors:

cedar;
larch;
nut;
alder;
oak, etc.

Since wood has low thermal conductivity, some regions do not require insulation of the door leaf. In other cases, it must be sheathed on the inside or on both sides with leather or leatherette using insulation. This type of wooden doors has the following advantages:

Long term services. Even if the doors are too old, they can be restored to a presentable appearance with the help of restoration work. If you take proper care of wood, it can last for decades.
Good heat and sound insulation. If the fabric manufacturing technology is followed when insulating, use high-quality insulation and sealant, produce correct installation, massive doors are superior in performance to any other analogues.
Ease of processing allows you to produce fabric of any shape.

The disadvantages include:

high hygroscopicity;
susceptibility to combustion;
need in regular care;
can be easily damaged;
complex installation process.

Paneled

This type of warm doors can be made from the following materials:

laminated veneer lumber;
MDF for panels;
wood.

They must be sheathed with leatherette, since the parts can have different thicknesses and be made of different materials, which affects thermal conductivity. Foam rubber, cotton wool, isolon, polystyrene foam, and mineral wool can be used as insulation material. It is undesirable to use cotton wool or mineral fibers, as they easily absorb moisture, which contributes to the rotting of the wooden sheet.

To seal a room, preference should be given to a seal made of the following materials:

thermoplastic elastomer;
silicone;
polyurethane;
rubber;
felt.

It is attached around the perimeter of the canvas or loot using wallpaper nails.

If the canvas consists of wooden parts of various species, it is covered with veneer for aesthetics and to reduce the thermal conductivity of the material. The body of the product is made from laminated veneer lumber, which consists of 3 horizontal crossbars and 2 vertical ones. Panels are inserted into the resulting openings and given the desired shape in advance. They fix everything using a groove connection or special glazing beads.

Frame

This type of wooden products is the most common, since the price is lower than for solid or paneled panels. The cost is affected by:

frame material;
finishing.

The frame is made from solid wood, strapping or laminated veneer lumber. The following can act as insulation:

Styrofoam;
mineral wool;
polyurethane;
shavings;
honeycomb made of cardboard or paper.

The choice of material is influenced by the installation location and climatic conditions. Wooden sheathing MDF frame, chipboard or clapboard with a thickness of at least 1 cm. Frame structures There are the following types:

Solid. A solid sheet of fiberboard or MDF is installed on a frame made of timber, with insulation placed in the space between the plates.
Void or hollow. 1-2 crossbars are additionally installed into the frame and sheathed with fiberboard, MDF or clapboard. The internal space is not filled with anything.
Small hollow. The design provides for the presence large quantity voids that are filled with insulation.

Advantages

The main advantage of choosing a material for entrance doors such as wood is that the insulated wooden structure is environmentally friendly and safe. Advantages also include:

long service life;
low level thermal conductivity;
high strength;
no corrosion.

Even simple models wooden structures covered with leatherette have a more presentable appearance compared to metal ones.

Flaws

The disadvantages of wooden warm entrance doors are:

High risk of fire. The structure must be treated with fire retardants, which reduce the possibility of ignition of the material.
Weak tightness. It is advisable to treat the joints with sealant.
Under the influence of moisture, a wooden door swells and delaminates, which can lead to distortions. Before installation, the material must be treated with special solutions that protect it from moisture.
Susceptibility to rotting. To avoid this, the wood is treated with antiseptics.

Materials used

Wooden structure provides the following sequence: leatherette with foam rubber on the inner side, insulation, outer wall, which, if necessary, is also sheathed. The following is used as a thermal insulator:

isolon or polyethylene foam;
polyurethane foam;
expanded polystyrene or foam;
mineral wool with foil layer;
sawdust;
cotton wool;
foam rubber

The choice depends on climatic conditions and budget. The first 4 materials from the list have the lowest thermal conductivity.

How to insulate a wooden door in a private house?

Wooden entrance door to a private house must be reliably insulated, since heat loss occurs through it. Massive and paneled structures are upholstered with leatherette with foam rubber or other thermal insulator. IN frame insulation placed in the middle of the product. You can do this yourself or order individual wooden entrance doors for a private home. Independent work are appropriate if the dacha is insulated for country house.