Drawing of a gate from a corner. Do-it-yourself gates: drawings, photos and videos of different types

Fencing an industrial zone, public areas or private property is unthinkable without installing a fence. An indispensable component is the entrance gate. You can save money by making such an object yourself.

Swing gate designs, types and designs

Swing gates have a simple design and are the easiest to automate. This is especially important for gates installed on production sites with large traffic volumes.

The design of a gate without a mechanism for opening and closing it is inconvenient, since in this case you will have to get out of the car, open and lock the doors one by one, drive into the yard, and then perform all the steps in reverse order. This takes a lot of time, and it is especially unpleasant to do it in bad weather.

Photo gallery: different types of gate designs

Swing gates made of picket fence are easy to make and require few materials Sheet metal swing gates are reliable and durable Lightweight swing gates made of forged lattice are not only protection of the site, but also its decoration A solid wooden leaf makes the gate more reliable

Selecting the direction of opening the doors

Gate leaves can open in two directions: outward or inward.

The first option is preferable when the yard has a small area. The disadvantage of this solution is the need to install the gate opening/closing mechanism in a hidden position. To do this, it is placed in a pit. This solution requires additional costs for sealing and entails the need to lengthen the axes of the valves to install the drive lever. When opening inward, the mechanism is installed directly on the gate post, and the levers are attached to the door leaf.

Choice of fabric design

At this design stage, errors most often occur, the cause of which is the direction and strength of the wind at the location where the gate is installed that is not taken into account. If the area is characterized by strong, stable winds, it is preferable to choose a lattice structure, since it has less windage compared to a solid canvas. Under the influence of wind loads, the mechanisms for moving the sashes are overloaded and fail faster.

General design features

On any gate there are a number of elements that you need to pay attention to:

1. Hinges are parts that secure the doors to supporting poles. Their number and power should ensure smooth movement of the valves for a long time.
2. The central lock is an element necessary for installing the sashes in the closed position.
3. Extreme clamps are parts for temporarily fixing the leaves when the gate is wide open.
4. The lock is a massive latch, a hasp with hinges, or simply hinges for a lock, attached to the doors 1–1.2 m from the bottom edge.

Preparatory work for the installation of gates

The result of all work on assembling and installing the gate depends on the thoroughness of the preparation. Preparatory work includes the following:

• development of a preliminary design of the entrance with details and drawing up a bill of materials;
• revision of the remaining building materials from previous construction and inclusion of suitable parts in the project;
• acquisition of materials in accordance with the material list;
• production of parts, purchase of related materials and missing tools.

Based on the sketch above, all that remains is to count the number of elements for each position in order to obtain a material statement. It is also necessary to consider the methods of execution (welding, riveting), the material for the protective coating, the dimensions of the concrete foundations and other structural elements. These items in the required quantities are also included in the bill of materials.

Selection of materials for swing gates

This is perhaps the most important point. Even a perfectly executed gate may look completely out of place on the property if it does not harmonize with the fence of the property or the color of the roof of the house. A unified design style is important.

The most common are metal products in various combinations.

In this case, the combination of brick, wooden picket fence and brown corrugated board seems doubtful. This solution can only be in harmony with a wooden house on the site.

The photo below shows an example of a more successful combination of gates and fencing in color and style. This option is made from almost the same materials. Elements of the simplest forging from a rod are available for self-production.

The use of a relatively new material in combination with metal - cellular and monolithic polycarbonate - must be considered successful.

The advantages of this material are its high strength, ease of processing and a large selection of tints and degrees of transparency.

It is impossible to list or show all the variety of combinations of different materials for the manufacture of swing gates. A successful solution with minimal costs depends only on the performer.

Materials and tools for making swing gates

Everything necessary for the manufacture of gates has already been calculated at the design stage and drawing up a bill of materials. This applies not only to basic, but also to auxiliary materials. You only need to add wooden beams to make the slipway, which is necessary to ensure the flatness of the sash during the assembly process.

When installing a slipway, you need to pay attention to the flatness of its load-bearing elements. Since this is only an auxiliary structure, there is no need to saw off the protruding ends during the assembly process, and the material can later be used for other purposes.

Tools, accessories and materials

Considering the need for these products, we will stipulate the initial conditions. Let's assume that you need to make gate leaves of a combined design using metal profiles in the form of a rectangular pipe 80x40 mm for the main frame, the same material 40x40 mm in size for the jibs and stiffeners, as well as a wooden board - lining for filling the leaf of the leaves.

To work you will need:

1. A hand-held grinder (grinder) for cutting metal profiles and processing the cutting area in order to grind sharp edges and remove burrs.
2. Abrasive discs for grinders.
3. Bench square - for marking the cutting area.
4. Three-meter tape measure - for taking measurements.
5. Clamps for fixing parts before welding.
6. Household welding machine.
7. Electrodes corresponding to the material of the valves.
8. Hammer for removing scale from welds.
9. Wood hacksaw for working with lining.
10. Screwdriver - for attaching wooden parts to the frame of the doors.
11. Self-tapping screws - for the same purposes.
12. Electric drill - for drilling holes for self-tapping screws of the appropriate size.
13. Bench vice - for securing rods in the manufacture of clamps.
14. Construction plumb line - to control verticality when installing sashes on support pillars.
15. Construction level for adjusting the position of the load-bearing structures of the slipway.
16. Metal primer and corresponding paint - for applying a protective coating to metal parts.
17. Compositions for antiseptic treatment of wooden parts and fire-resistant impregnation for wood.

During the work, other tools and equipment may be needed.

Photo gallery: tools and equipment necessary for work

A grinder is needed for cutting metal profiles A screwdriver is used to attach wooden elements to the frame of the doors Using a drill, drill holes for self-tapping screws A welding machine is necessary to perform basic work on assembling the structure A vice is used to secure rods in the manufacture of clamps A clamp is used to secure parts Use a square to mark cutting areas

Installation of swing gates, step-by-step instructions

Gate installation must begin with the installation of support posts.

Installation of support pillars

For support pillars, rectangular pipes measuring 100x100 mm are used, preferably galvanized. If the pipe is electric welded, then the longitudinal seam should be located on the opposite side from the installation site of the canopies.

Pits for poles are best made using a garden auger with a diameter of 250 mm.

It is convenient to drill holes for support posts using a garden auger

The depth of the pit depends on the depth of soil freezing in the area where the work is being carried out. For the Moscow region, this value is 180 cm, therefore, the pit should be 15 cm deeper. If this requirement is not met, in winter, as a result of soil movement, the support pillars may become skewed.

At the bottom of the hole you need to arrange drainage. To do this, sand is poured onto the bottom (layer height 10 cm), then medium-fraction gravel (layer height 5 cm).

Concreting is carried out in the following order:

Simultaneously with concreting the support posts, it is necessary to make a central support with the installation of a metal embedded part on it. It is more convenient to make holes for the locking pins later - when hanging the sashes with markings in place.

Manufacturing of sashes

While the concrete is curing, you can install the slipway and begin manufacturing swing gate leaves. To do this you need:

• measure the distance between the support pillars and, if necessary, make adjustments to the longitudinal dimensions;
• install a slipway;
• prepare the sash parts for assembly;
• lay the structural elements on the slipway, secure them with clamps;
• check the correctness of the diagonal layout and dimensions, correct if necessary;
• weld the structure;

• after completing all welded joints, remove the slag with a hammer, inspect each seam, and re-weld if necessary;
• paint the surface with primer and dry;
• apply a final protective coating (paint);
• Install the inner leaf of the sashes and secure them using the chosen method.

Installation of sashes

The sashes must be installed in the “closed” position on a temporary fastening, while:

1. Provide gaps between the support posts and the doors equal to the size of the gate hinges. It is convenient to use wooden spacers for this. The gap between the sashes should be from 10 to 50 mm.
2. The distance from the bottom edge of the sashes to the ground must be at least 50 mm.
3. The height of the sashes is installed on temporary linings.
4. Check the freedom of movement of the valves when opening them. To do this, you need to install a bar on the lower edge of the gate perpendicular to the wings. The length of the strip should be equal to the width of the sash. Align the bar horizontally with a level. The far end of the plank should not be in contact with the ground. Otherwise, the sash will hit the ground when opening.
5. After taking all the necessary measurements, you can install the awnings. To do this, they are placed in the provided gap and welded to the support pillars and sashes.

   Swing gate canopies are welded to the support pillars

6. If galvanized pipes were used for the pillars, the welds must be thoroughly cleaned and painted over with special paint, which consists of 95% zinc powder. Otherwise, the metal will actively corrode and the poles will quickly fail.
7. Mark and drill holes for the fixing pins and install them in place.
8. A plate of suitable size must be welded to the top of the support post to plug the hole.

   Fixing pins are needed only during long periods of absence of the owners or in strong winds to avoid damage to the mechanism from wind load

Choosing automation for swing gates

The most commonly used devices for opening/closing gates are linear and lever drives with electric traction, as well as hydraulic drives.

Linear drives

The popularity of linear mechanisms is due to their lower cost compared to lever mechanisms and their higher power and stability in operation. Their market share is about 95%.

The design feature of such mechanisms is the use of a worm screw, which allows them to withstand increased loads. An important factor determining the popularity of linear actuators is also the ability to use them to open gates both inward and outward. An additional advantage is the ability to install them on narrow poles.

Lever gate drives

The main feature of such mechanisms is smooth operation when opening and closing, which is due to the design features.

The gear motor drives the levers connected to the shutters through a worm gear. Opening/closing can be done in any direction at an angle of up to 110°.

Automatic gate control

Mechanization of gate operation does not provide any advantages if used without automatic control. It is convenient to open them by simply pressing a button on the control panel.

Designations in the figure:

1. Left leaf drive.
2. Right leaf drive.
3. Control Panel.
4. Signal receiving device.
5. Photocells for safety.
6. Signal lamp.
7. Receiving antenna.
8. Racks for installing photocells.

Here is a minimum set of control devices to ensure the operation of swing gates.

Additional devices on swing gates

Automated swing gates do not require any additional structural elements.

But situations are possible when the entire structure is subject to critical loads. This primarily applies to solid doors in strong winds. Therefore, traditional bolts and pins at the bottom of the sashes are used for insurance. The material for their manufacture is usually the remains of the main structure of the valves, bent steel rods with a diameter of 12–16 mm. A metal strip 4 mm thick is used for locking loops.

All these additional elements are used during the long absence of the owners or in the event of unfavorable weather conditions.

Video: making automatic swing gates with your own hands

Beautiful, properly made automated gates are not only a decoration for a country house, but also a reliable security device. Most developers can do it themselves.

Do-it-yourself swing gates are one of the most common types of gates, which are chosen when improving small private plots and large private areas. The choice of these particular gates is justified by the fact that they are easy to install and reliable during active use. By installing such gates on your site, you can not only protect your property, but also save money. Below we will look at the features of such structures and figure out how to install them yourself.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like every design, such gates have their own advantages and disadvantages; we will consider them in more detail below:

1. Advantages:

• relatively low cost, which will be a pleasant bonus to the installed gates;
• ease of installation;
• long service life of the installed structure;
• installation can be done on your own;
• installation can be done with your own design modifications;
• if there are no restrictions in volume, then accordingly there will be no restrictions on passing transport;
• you have the opportunity to choose on your own what material you will make the structure from, respectively, from suitable options.

1. Flaws:

• for durable installation, it will be necessary to bury the pillars quite deeply, and this is not always easy to do with your own hands;
• concreting these pillars takes a lot of time, and if concreted incorrectly, the pillars may warp over time;
• a very large space will be required to install such a barrier;
• it is unsafe to use such structures in strong winds, because it will be almost impossible to control the doors;
• When installing an electric drive, you must purchase several wires to close/open the gate, which will increase the cost of your purchase.

As you can see, the advantages of such structures outweigh the disadvantages, and if you live in a region where strong gusty winds are not the norm, feel free to proceed with the installation of swing gates on your site.

Types of metal structures

Before you start assembling your new gate, it will be important to decide on its design. The choice should be made taking into account a number of features, the main one of which is the frequency of operation. Using metal you can make various variations, we will consider each of them separately.

Single leaf

Iron gates of this type are not very popular. This is a solid canvas that is not particularly practical to use. In order for them to work perfectly, it is important to reliably strengthen the supports; a lot of money will have to be spent on this. When you decide to install the structure in a garage, take care of constructing a powerful and reliable metal frame, and also do not forget to attach the hinges. The disadvantages include the need for space for the sash to function.

Bivalve

The most popular and practical to use. You can install them yourself on your site without any difficulties. The structure is made of 2 canvases that are the same in size, therefore, you will need to make a frame from two frames and cover them with sheet material.

Double doors with gate

They are very practical for daily use. They are manufactured like the previous design, the only difference is the presence of a special gate on one leaf. If you plan to install this type of structure in a garage, you must choose a mortise type of gate.

How to make swing gates with your own hands

By following the guide given in this article, you can make swing gates yourself. To do this, you will need to strictly adhere to the drawing, because the work requires a precise approach. If it is difficult for you to draw up a drawing yourself, then diagrams and sketches of such structures will not be difficult to find on the Internet, which can be taken as a basis.

Create a sequence of actions:

• foundation and pillars;
• frame work;
• sheathing

Let's look at each step in more detail below.

The basis of the structure will be a metal frame; its fastening must be done in the entrance opening. It will also be necessary to install strong supports. When creating a drawing, mark the markings on it, as well as the locations of the main objects of the future structure. The optimal parameters will be the following: height 2 m, and the length of each leaf is also 2 m. The leaves can be made with 1 or 2 horizontal crossbars, which act as stiffeners.

For additional reinforcement, you can make 2 diagonal and 1 transverse crossbars.

Installation of pillars

Work on installing swing gates should begin with the installation of support pillars. You can choose a concrete or brick pillar, a wooden beam, but as practice shows, it is better to give preference to metal structures. If you choose brick pillars, then you need to lay pipes or channels inside them, and you will need to remove the embedded corners from the steel corner or their reinforcement in order to subsequently attach the racks with hinges.

Metal pillars must be concreted to a depth of at least one meter. This indicator should be equal to the depth of soil freezing. A reinforced foundation is also laid under the brick pillar to a depth of one meter.

Algorithm for installing support pillars from pipes:

• clean the pipes from rust and then degrease them with a suitable substance;
• prime the surface of the prepared pipe, then paint it to match the selected profiled sheet;
• measure the width of the future doors, in which dig two holes 1-1.5 m deep;
• Place sand and crushed stone at the bottom of the dug holes. You should get a pillow 20-30 cm thick;
• the support post is installed in the prepared pit and secured with reinforcement;
• Using a building level, level the position of the pillars;
• Fill the hole with concrete, which you prepare from fine crushed stone, river sand and cement.

The resulting foundation should be left to harden for at least a week. If the doors are heavy, with forged elements, then the drying period for the foundation should be increased to two weeks. While the concrete dries, you can start making canvases and frames.

Installation of the foundation and pillars should be carried out in the warm season.

Manufacturing

Now you can start making the frame for the swing gates. To do this, prepare the site where you will work. You have to follow the following instructions:

• the pipe that you will use for the frame must be cleaned and degreased, then primed and painted;
• in most cases, the doors are rectangular in shape, but there are exceptions. It is worth understanding that if the upper edge of the gate has a rounded shape, then the pipe will need to be bent; for this it is better to contact professional craftsmen;
• cut the pipe according to the dimensions according to the drawing, cut angle 45C;
• Place the prepared pipes on the work surface, check the evenness of the diagonals using a tape measure;
• Now you can grab the frame by welding;
• again check the evenness of the corners and diagonals, if necessary, trim them and finally weld the pipes;
• it is necessary to weld a corner on the inside of the frame, keep the angle between the joints at 45C;
• Weld the so-called “kerchiefs” at the corners of the frame, this is necessary to give additional strength to the frame;
• Now you need to weld the crossbars to the frame. Experts recommend placing horizontal crossbars at a distance of 40-50 cm from the bottom and top edges;
• If you plan to install a lock, now is the time to make a box for it from sheet iron. It will provide reliable protection for the mechanism from the effects of precipitation;
• the plumb lines must be moved from the support pillars to the side posts of the frame being manufactured;
• attach the awning counterparts;
• sand the areas where welding was done, treat them with a primer and paint.

The algorithm for installing swing gates with your own hands is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance; follow the instructions given and you will certainly succeed.

At the next stage, it’s worth thinking about how to cover the swing gates. In this case, corrugated sheeting would be the best choice. Seam the fabric in accordance with the following recommendations:

• Place the corrugated sheet on top of the prepared frame and attach it with steel rivets and self-tapping screws. Decorative rivets will look aesthetically pleasing, but if repairs are necessary, it will be difficult to dismantle the canvas.
• The corrugated sheeting should be fastened only in recessed areas, these are the so-called “waves”.
• The number of screws per 1 m2 is 8-10 pieces. This is the optimal indicator.

Once you have finished covering the frame, the finished sashes can be hung on the hinges on the support posts. In this form, the gate can be used quite well, but if desired, you can improve it by adding an automatic system for opening the doors.

Installation of automation

The automatic system for swing gates is quite practical and you can easily install it yourself. To make the gate automatic, you will need to install at least a couple of drives, then connect the control unit and buy at least one device to control this system. In order to achieve greater safety when opening the gate, you can also install a warning lamp and photocells.

Please note that different drives should be selected if the sashes open inwards and if the sashes open outwards.

Schemes and drawings

In this video I will show you how to convert regular gates into automatic swing gates with your own hands. I've had the idea of ​​replacing the gate with an automatic one for a long time. And at some point a scheme was born that I put into practice. The gate is controlled by a remote control from the alarm system. This light serves as an indication that the drives are turned on and off.

I opened the gate inwards. All electrical is housed in a sealed box and the wiring is underground. The electric motors of the drives are powered by a voltage of 12 volts. I have tested the opening speed so far only in winter, and it ranges from 40 seconds to 1 minute. Each of the two drives is made according to the same design. The movable drive rod is attached to a special lug on the gate. The drive itself is attached via a welded bracket to the pole. All wiring is made in a sealed corrugation.

As you can see, I protected the internal parts of the drive with a suitable plastic box and a gray sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 millimeters. This solution completely protects the electric motor and limit switches from moisture.

Features of work

I have different buttons on the remote control for closing and opening the gate, and this is very convenient when I need to open or close the gate. Another point that I wanted to implement: when closing, the gate is blocked due to the original design. Neither on the ground nor above the gate are there any jumpers or stops that fix the gate in its extreme position. The gate simply closes and then remains in a slightly wedged state. This design does not provide for the order of closing the left or right wing; a gap of several millimeters is left between the gates. This approach, it seems to me, simplifies the gate control circuit. When the gate is closed, the drives are automatically switched off.

I manufactured and installed my gate drives in the winter. And this is a good test for the reliability and durability of the device. Therefore, I used proven automotive components and parts. It so happened that this winter I calmly operated my automatic gates at this temperature.

What changes in the cold? The automation works flawlessly, only the gate opening/closing time increases. I think it has to do with lubrication. In cold weather it becomes thicker. The next question that you are probably interested in is: what to do when there is no electricity? I simply pull out the pin that secures the drive rod to the gate, and then simply open the gate with my hands and lower the stops down.

I am not a fan of using a battery as a backup power supply, as I consider this scheme to be expensive and require constant maintenance and charging. In addition, the frequency of power outages in your area is an individual issue. Over several months of operation, I opened the gate only once. To close the gate without electricity, you need to perform the opposite operations: move the axes of the drive rod and the gate, and insert the pin. That's all, and it seems to me that it is not difficult.

The design of the gate has its own peculiarity. To reduce windage, the lower part is made in the form of a mesh.

How to lock gates without using drives? There is a rotating bolt for this purpose. So it is open, and so it is closed.

When the automation is connected, the bolt is always in the open position. I show you the frame of the gate itself. This is the simplest design possible. In my opinion, there are no unnecessary parts in it and at the same time the gate is quite rigid.

How do drives block gates? Let's look at this in more detail. The whole trick is in the special installation of the gate hinges. If you look closely, you will see that the hinges are welded in such a way that they prevent the gate from opening outward.

When closing, the vertical pipe of the gate rests against the post and gusts of wind blowing outward will not be able to pull out the drive. And the screw design of the drive will not allow the gate to be pressed inward.

conclusions

In conclusion, let's look at the features of this project:

• the budget for two drives and a control unit was about 5,000 rubles;
• to make the drives, I used jacks and gear motors for windshield wipers from a “penny”;
• I came up with the control unit circuit myself and implemented it using a relay;
• For added security, I used two levels of gate closing and opening control. These are ordinary limit switches and time relays;
• I used control panels from a budget car alarm system;
• and finally, I have implemented separate buttons for opening and closing the gate, which allows you to open or close the gate. Which in practice turned out to be very useful.

Part 2

This is the second part of the video about do-it-yourself automatic swing gates. In the last issue I reviewed these gates, and today I will tell you in great detail about the electrical circuit.

I would like to warn you right away that this unit is assembled to perform specific tasks on the gate. These are the tasks. This is the ability to open/close gates under wind and snow loads, when the operating time of the drives can be increased. The second is the ability to open the gate, using it as a gate for guests, for example. Third, the drives are completely turned off after opening or closing the gate. It also turns off after a certain time, which you can adjust yourself. Adjustment of the drive shutdown time is provided separately for opening and closing.

If these tasks suit you, then you can safely look at this detailed description of the circuit further.

What does the diagram consist of?

The scheme is based on available elements that can be bought in auto stores or ordered cheaply on Ali Express. The basis of the circuit is two pulse relays, which are triggered when a short negative pulse is received from the remote control unit. The automation unit is in front of you. Let's look at the main elements.

The first is the control unit. Regular car alarm. The cheapest Chinese one. I ordered it on Ali Express. It cost about 300 rubles.

The next large elements are two pulse relays. This is what these relays look like. This is their number. This is the rear fog light relay. Used in VAZs and Chevrolet Niva. It is easy to find and sold in stores. Costs about 240 rubles. In my circuit there are two of these relays: the first and the second.

The following elements are a regular five-pin relay. One, two, three, four and one four-pin relay. This relay is necessary to provide an intermittent signal to the lamp so that others can see that the gate is currently opening or closing.

Also in the diagram there are two time relay modules - one and two. They are absolutely the same. These modules ensure that my circuit is turned off using a timer.

Here are all the main elements that are present in my scheme. And now I will try to schematically draw the operating principle of this device. How does this scheme work?

Scheme of work

First we draw all the large blocks. This will be the control unit for the car alarm. We use only two signals from this control unit. Both signals are pulsed and have negative polarity. That is, this is a minus. Our first signal will be responsible for opening the gate, and the second will be responsible for closing the gate. Naturally, on the alarm remote control it will be these two buttons. The closed lock button is what we use to close the gate. And an open lock is the opening of a gate.

Go ahead. The most important thing in my circuit is the two pulse relays that I talked about earlier. Here they are. Therefore, we place them in the center. First and second. This will be P1 - opening, and this will be P2 - closing. As I already said, we use this impulse relay with this number. They are easy to find in automotive stores and are quite inexpensive. The relay data connection diagram is very simple. I'll show you schematically what it looks like. There are only 6 contacts. Contacts I use. I apply a constant plus to the first contact, and a constant minus to the third contact. The fifth contact is the control one, the minus should come to it. Moreover, this minus can be impulsive. This is exactly what we need. We have a pulse signal with negative polarity coming from the control unit.

Therefore we will do the following. We connect the control unit to the first opening relay. This is our discovery. This is where the control minus comes from the control unit. And the second relay is controlled by a second signal from the control unit. This is our closure and this is also a minus.

Further, according to this diagram for connecting a pulse relay, I use the fourth contact - this is a constant plus at the output. The moment when a pulse of negative polarity arrives at the fifth contact. So here on the fourth pin there will be a signal. This will be a plus. I'll draw it like this.

Electric motors in the circuit

Go ahead. In our diagram, of course, there are electric motors for gate drives, there are two of them. I'll refer to them as M1 and M2. In the simplest version, for this circuit to work, we only need to apply a minus signal from the power supply to these motors. Do this and take any plus from any of these relays. Now how can this scheme work? Very simple. Let's say I need to open the gate - I press the first opening button. On the control unit, a pulse of negative polarity appears on the first contact, and it starts this relay (the first). This relay is triggered and a constant plus appears at the fourth output of the relay. This plus goes to each of the electric motors. And we already got the minus by connecting through the power supply. Thus, they begin to rotate in one direction. The circuit starts to work, both engines spin - our gate opens.

In order to stop this scheme, I press the same button again - the gate open button. What's happening? Again, a control pulse signal of negative polarity appears in the control unit. So it comes here and again it goes to the pulse relay. Since the relay is pulsed, each pulse changes the state of the relay. Thus, if it was turned on, then it turns off, and this plus from the fourth contact disappears. And both engines stop because the plus for both engines disappears.

If we connect the plus from the second relay, which is responsible for closing, then we will use the closing button. Here it is - a lock, we press it, and the signal that goes along this wire is triggered in the control unit. That is, here we have a pulse minus coming through this wire to the second relay, which is responsible for closing. A positive appears on the fourth contact of this relay. We have this plus connected to both motors and now they begin to rotate again, but they rotate in the same direction.

In order to stop closing, we must press the same button again. Then the control minus from the control unit goes through this wire again to the closing relay. The pulse relay changes its state, and the plus of the fourth contact goes away, and again the engines stop.

In order to make the gate drive motors rotate in the other direction and ensure closing, we need some kind of circuit that will change the polarity. Since each relay produces a positive control signal. To do this, I will use a regular five-pin relay, here I have one and two.

They will work in conjunction and provide a change in polarity on these two contacts. How will it look like? When I apply an opening or closing control signal, one or another pulse relay will be triggered, and here the polarity will change on these two contacts. Let's say it was a plus here, and a minus here, and then it will become a minus here, and a plus here. This way I will reverse the engine.

We draw a diagram of the polarity change. As I already said, these are two five-pin relays. Here it is first, and here it is second. Let's designate the contacts. Here we have contact 88, sometimes it is also called 87A. This is not important. On this side we have 30 power contacts. Then these two contacts are 87. And two contacts for controlling the relay coil.

These are 86 and 85. And here are 86 and 85, respectively. Now how will we connect these contacts? Let's do the following. We set 88 contacts to minus. That is, we have a minus here and a minus here.

We connect the 86 and 85 relay contacts to each other and also turn them to minus. We must apply plus to contacts 87 of both relays. Here we will have a plus, I will label it here. To make it clear, I’ll even draw with a red felt-tip pen. So, we have a plus here. And we have a minus here.

We must connect contact 85 of the first relay to contact 4 of the pulse relay for opening. And we must connect pin 86 of the second polarity change relay to pin 4 of the pulse relay to close. There remain 30 contacts of the polarity change relay. We will connect our electric motor in parallel to these contacts.

Now let's see how this scheme will work. Let's say we don't have impulse relays. I'll close them now. What will happen? In the unconnected state, both polarity reversals will operate according to the following principle. Contact 87 will be normally closed, here and here. Therefore, the plus will be removed from this contact and sent to pin 30. I'm drawing a plus here and I'm also drawing a plus here because 30 and 87 will be shorted here too. So we have plus and plus. As you understand, electric motors will not work with this connection.

What happens if we give them a signal? So, we wanted to open the gate, we press the gate open button, a pulse signal appears in the control unit. About this line, he comes here and opens pulse relay number 1. On the 4th contact of this relay, we have a permanent plus, which comes to the 85th contact of the first polarity change relay and changes the state of the normally closed 87th contact to a normally open one. Thus, contact 888 or 87A, as it is also called, closes. And at pin 30 we get not a plus, but a minus. I'm drawing a minus here. And here we have a plus.

Since the motors are connected in parallel, they begin to rotate in one specific direction. When I press the same “open” button again, an impulse from the control unit arrives at the same first relay, it changes its state and disappears from contact 4 plus. Thus, the signal disappears at contact 85 of the polarity change relay, the coil no longer magnetizes the contact and contact 88 goes into the “normally open” state. And contact 87 is “normally closed”. That is, we get a plus here again. And we have a plus here again and a plus here. Therefore, the electric drive motors stop again.

If I press the “close” button, then the same operation occurs only with the second impulse relay. That is, the signal comes here - this is a pulse minus signal, it goes to the second relay. On this relay we have a plus on pin 4. This plus goes to pin 86 of the polarity change relay, and on this side we will have not a plus, but a minus. Both engines start, but they turn in the other direction. This is how I solved the issue of changing the polarity. Using just two five-pin relays.

An interesting question you might ask is what happens if, when the first opening relay is turned on, that is, when I press the “open gate” button, I immediately press the “close gate” button. Then the following will happen: both relays will be in the “on” state and then the plus will be present both here and here. And these polarity change relays will change their state. Electric drive motors will stop because there will be both negatives on the contacts. But this situation does not suit me, because both impulse relays will be constantly turned on and there will be a plus at their outputs. To prevent this from happening, I use two more relays. In my diagram they are right here at the top.

Interlock relay

I call them Open Interlock Relay and Close Interlock Relay respectively. What are they needed for? They are needed so that when I open the gate and my opening relay is activated, I cannot press the “close” button to turn on the second relay, which is responsible for closing the gate. On the diagram it will look like this. These are again two five-pin relays. The contacts will be located like this. These are 30, 87, 88, 86, 85. I will apply a negative signal to these contacts immediately from the power supply. This will be “P opening block”, and this will be “P closing block”. Now both of our pulse relays will be connected to the control unit not directly, but through the corresponding opening and closing blocking relays.

Therefore, I erase this connection. We take the signal that is responsible for opening and apply it to the first relay to pin 87. Accordingly, to connect a pulse relay for opening. We must take the signal from pin 30 of the blocking relay.

And now, through the closing blocking relay, we will connect a signal to close the gate. We connect it to pin 87 again. I'll highlight them in color to make it clear. A negative pulse is removed from contact 30 of the closing blocking relay, and we apply it to the corresponding contact of the closing pulse relay.

How will this scheme work now? When we press the “gate open” button, a pulse signal appears in the control unit and along this line it first goes to the opening blocking relay at pin 87. We have this contact in a state where the relay is not connected - it is always closed, so we remove this impulse from contact 30 and it goes to our pulse relay for opening the gate. And further according to the scheme.

When I need to close the gate, I press another button, a signal appears in this branch. It goes to pin 87 of the closing blocking relay. This relay is not turned on yet. Therefore, from contact 30 we remove the minus, which goes to the second pulse relay, which is responsible for closing the gate.

Now let's do a trick. We will connect the positive signal from the opening pulse relay to pin 86 of the closing blocking relay. What will happen in this case?

So, when we open the gate and our impulse passes through this circuit, through the opening blocking relay, it is not turned on in any way. Contact 87 is closed to 30. Therefore, the opening pulse relay turns on, a plus appears at its output, and the circuit begins to work. But this plus along this branch goes to the closing blocking relay. And here the state of the relay changes. If earlier contact 87 was normally closed, now it opens and contact 30 closes to 88, which is not connected to anything. And even if now, I press the close button, and I will receive a signal from the control unit along this branch, and it will go to pin 87. Then the signal from this contact will not reach 30, because this relay has changed state. And contact 30 is closed to 88.

Therefore, pulse relay number 2, which closes the gate, will not be able to operate. We will make the same tricky connection for the opening blocking relay. We remove the positive signal from the second pulse relay. And we feed it here to contact 86 of the opening blocking relay.

As you may have guessed, the same principle of operation will be here. When I press the gate closing button, the negative signal along this branch passes through the blocking relay and goes to the second closing pulse relay. It is triggered, and the positive signal from pin 4 goes to pin 86 of the opening blocking relay.

The relay changes its state and contact 87 will no longer be connected to 30. 30 switches to 87. And now even if I press the button to open the gate, and I have a signal already in this branch, then it in no way passes further, and does not turns on the gate opening pulse relay. This piece of the circuit allows you to eliminate unnecessary operation of both pulse relays at the same time. I will try to show you what I just talked about in a more visual form.

Here they are impulse relays, here they are, these contacts, 6 contacts. And here they are, the blocking relays. This is how they are connected. In red I have wires that are connected to their corresponding pulse relays.

How does a light bulb work?

Go ahead. Let's consider the question of how we can make this circuit signal when one of these relays is turned on. That is, when our engines are running. For this we have some kind of light bulb. And it should glow for us. I use a turn relay in my circuit. This is a turn signal relay for Lada cars. Powering it is not difficult, the circuit is simple. I'll show you where I get the signals from in order to make this light bulb blink. So, we connect the light bulb directly to the relay. And in addition to the negative input, we must provide a positive signal to the relay. Where will we get it? We'll take it here. We take one of the signals from the first pulse relay. And we take the second signal at this point from the second pulse relay.

If I did this and connected the positive contact directly to the relay and brought these two contacts together, I would close the outputs of the first impulse relay and the second impulse relay, then I would be violating the circuit. They would not work correctly. Therefore, for this purpose it is necessary to use two ordinary diodes and place them like this. The first diode and the second diode.

It turned out a little clumsily, but I think you will understand the principle. Now what will happen? When we have the first or second relay open, then from their corresponding 4 contacts the plus will flow here. This plus passes through the diode, but it cannot get to the other branch due to the fact that there is another diode here. Accordingly, this plus goes further and comes to the turn relay and the light begins to blink.

If I press the gate open button and the first open relay is activated, then the positive is removed from pin 4 here. It also follows this circuit here, passes through the diode, but cannot get into this branch. And it goes below here to the turn signal relay and the light flashes again. Accordingly, when I press the close or open buttons a second time, these relays stop working. The positive signal from 4 contacts no longer comes here and the turn relay stops powering the light bulb, and the light bulb no longer blinks. The relay that makes the light blink is located here. This is a four-pin relay. I even took it with a block. It's quite inexpensive. But through these two contacts, I connect the light bulb already in place directly next to the gate.

Time relay

What do we have left? We have one last interesting task left. We need to ensure that after a certain time, each of these relays turns off. In order not to press the same button several times. For this purpose I will use two time relay modules. These are simple modules, they cost about 135 rubles each and are located here.

So here I have the time relay modules located. And their designation is FC-32. I also ordered them on Ali Express. Let this be time relay 1, and this will be time relay 2. Accordingly, our first time relay will be responsible for turning off the gate after opening. And the second relay will be responsible for turning off the drives after closing. In the diagram they look like this, in this place. First and second relays. There are contact groups here. There are two contacts here and two contacts here. And here, respectively, are three, and here are three.

I also want to draw your attention to the fact that the modules themselves have these variable resistors, which are responsible for point-by-point time adjustment. And the corresponding jumpers, which are installed in a certain way, are responsible for the time switching ranges. By setting them in the desired mode, I ensure that each of these relays operates exactly after a certain period of time. Well, in this case, I have the maximum set here to 1 minute here, and 1 minute here. That is, the time after which power will no longer be supplied to the drives in any case is equal to one minute. This time can be set to any time, both for opening and closing.

How I connected them. Here we have a negative signal coming from the power supply - minus. I'm connecting it. The front contact group has two contacts - plus and minus. Accordingly, here is the first minus and for the second - here.

In addition, the minus must be applied to the second contact group, which is located on the other side. Here we have three contacts. And the second relay also has three contacts. Therefore, we apply a minus to the extreme contact here, and to the extreme contact here.

As you probably already guessed, these modules will be powered from the corresponding pulse relays. Let's diagram this. So, when we turn on the first relay responsible for opening, then this positive signal from contact 4 should also go to the input of the pulse relay responsible for opening. Therefore, we bifurcate it like this and apply this positive signal to the left contact of the front contact group. Accordingly, for the second time relay we take the control signal from here. We take this plus from the relay, which is responsible for closing. Like this.

So here we have a plus, here we also have a plus. The contact groups on this side of the time relay have three groups: first, second and third. The first and second, when power is not supplied to this relay, they are normally closed. It’s the same here, a normal closed state. But when the power is already supplied, when the timer is triggered, the second and third are closed. That is, the situation here is now normally open. And here it’s the same thing – normally open.

What else should we connect? We must connect the second contacts in each time relay to the corresponding relay inputs, which are responsible for blocking. This is 87 contacts. That is, we will now take the second contact of the time relay output and connect it to the 87th contact of the opening blocking relay. And we will connect the second contact of the second time relay to contact 87 of the closing blocking relay. This is how I'll draw it.

How does the circuit work with these two time relays? So, we launch the first mode - press the button and open the gate. The gates are opened and the first impulse relay is triggered. At the 4th output of this relay we have a permanent plus. Along this branch, it comes to the time relay, which is again responsible for opening and this relay starts. It starts and counts down the time in one minute.

You can adjust the time to your liking as you like. I experimentally came to the conclusion that the maximum time that I need for the gate to fully open or close, especially in winter, is exactly one minute. In one minute the following will happen. Normally closed contacts 1 and 2 in the first relay open, and 2 and 3 close. On contact 3 we have a minus. This minus will go according to the diagram and will come to contact 87 of the opening blocking relay. This contact in the free state is closed to pin 30. The signal will go further and the negative signal will arrive at the opening pulse relay, thereby stopping its operation.

At the output, we will again get two pluses and the electric motors will stop. And at the same time, the voltage will be removed from these relays. The same goes for closing. We click on the “close” button. Our signal comes to the closing impulse relay. We remove the plus from the 4th contact of this relay, it goes to the corresponding second time relay and starts the timer. Our timer is again set to 1 minute. After a minute, contacts 1 and 2 open, and contacts 2 and 3 close. Accordingly, this minus goes to this branch, which is connected to contact 87 of the closing blocking relay. Through contact 30, closed with 87, the signal is sent to the pulse relay responsible for closing, and this pulse relay stops working. The plus disappears here again. And the polarity change circuit again has the same sign - two pluses, and again these two electric motors stop working. This is the logic of work provided by my scheme.

I hope you are not too tired of my detailed story.

Part 3

This is the third part of a video about do-it-yourself automatic swing gates. In the previous two parts, I reviewed and looked at the circuit diagram in detail. In this part you will find the device of drives and limit switches.

To open the gate, the mechanism of an ordinary VAZ jack is used, costing 500 rubles. The movable rod of this jack moves along a long screw when the handle is rotated.

Depending on the direction of rotation, the rod will move up or down. The intensity of movement determines the speed of movement of the rod. Now I will open the lid to show in detail the structure of this jack. As you can see, there is a gear inside. For our purposes, the handle and gears must be removed. To replace the lower gear with a screw, it is advisable to install a bearing of a suitable diameter. And on this side, after the screw, we will install an adapter on the gearbox shaft.

Features of gear motor

To drive the jack screw, I used the most common, simplest and cheapest windshield wiper motor gearbox from VAZ. I only use two wires - plus and minus. When the polarity changes, the gear motor changes direction of rotation.

Here is the axis of this gear motor, which we must attach to the screw.

Its shaft makes about 60 revolutions per minute. You can use other, more expensive gear motors with higher speeds. It is in this plane that these two nodes need to be joined.

For double-leaf swing gates, we will need two identical gear motors at once. I would like to warn you right away that in the domestic automotive industry, gear motors even from the same batch can have different rotation speeds. I have not yet been able to explain this paradox to myself. Please note that on this motor I have already installed two nuts.

They will somewhat strengthen the axis of this gear motor. And through them I will transfer the forces through the adapter to the top of the jack. As a result, we should have a design like this. Now I will explain how it works. I already inserted a profile square pipe with a side of 20 millimeters into the jack; a hole was drilled at the end for connection to the gate leaves. The square pipe itself is connected to the jack screw and, as it rotates, moves inward or outward.

On the other side you see a platform for mounting the gear motor. It is made in the form of a plate with holes. This is where the gear motor is attached using bolts. Its axle with nuts fits exactly into the adapter, which I made from a suitable socket wrench.

When the gear motor is turned on, rotation is transmitted through the adapter to the jack screw. The jack screw rotates and moves the square pipe I inserted outward or inward. Accordingly, this entire structure either lengthens or shortens during operation, which ensures the opening and closing of the valves. And at the same time, this design is quite rigid and strong, which is necessary for working in harsh wind conditions.

I also installed several corners on the drive housing, to which I will attach a decorative cover to protect it from atmospheric precipitation. There is a large hole drilled into the back of the drive for a pin or bolt that will secure the drive to the post.

For this design, it is better to make a small plastic cover to protect it from precipitation. The second drive is made in exactly the same way.

Features of the limit switches

And now I will tell you how the limit switches will work. These limit switches are connected to these two motors. Here you see the alarm.

Please note that here we have a plus and a minus. This minus goes right here and immediately goes to one motor, and to the second motor. That is, from here, he immediately goes at them. The second contact goes here, and goes for the first motor - here are two limit switches (connected via a diode), and for the second motor (also two diodes). They are connected differently and connected through two terminals. And it goes to the second motor, that is, this is one motor, and this one goes to the second motor. That is, they work separately.

Let's take a look now. So, we have everything on, zero voltage. Turn it on and open the gate. Now our engines are working. Our voltage is 12 volts. Now let's look. And so we look after the engines. I close the first contact - the limit switch closes only one motor. Now we look at the bottom one. I close it - it doesn't work. Now we close both - here and here. That's it, they both don't work because I shorted them both. Now I let go here, and then I let go - and they work again.

If I close the other limit switches, then nothing happens. What's here, what's here. Notice that nothing happens. Because they are spinning counterclockwise now. Now I'm stopping the scheme. I have zero here. And now I'm starting to close. They now spin clockwise. And now, in order for me to stop them, I have to close these lower ones. Closed and opened. Same thing below. We close both now - I close here, and I close here, and they both stop working.

I closed them all. Now I open them and they work again. We check the first limit switches. We close - nothing, no effect. Because there are diodes here and these diodes only pass current in one direction. Therefore, this limit switch is only for closing, and this one is only for opening. Here's the diagram.

Current limits

Now let's see how much current this circuit has. Ammeter here. We're turning it all on now. Now the engines are working, everything is blinking. And there are two and a half amps here. This whole circuit is for two and a half amperes.

Now I am stopping one contact. That is, we only have one motor spinning. The current here is 1.2 amperes.

Now I want to show the principle by which the limit switches will work. As you can see, they are installed here, here is the one limit switch, and here is the second limit switch installed.

That is, this plank – it moves. Moves here and will turn off here.

Let's see. So she went and freed this limit switch.

He freed himself. Now she is heading in this direction towards this end stop. The motor is still running. Here she is approaching the end point. That's it, the engine is stopped, it doesn't turn over. And even if I press this button now, the motor does not work, does not start. Here I am, there is no effect.

Now let's try to close it. Now it is not working - we are closing it. So he went the other way. That's it, the engine no longer turns, everything has stopped. On this drive, the limit switches are located here, like this.

Here she is walking slowly. The second limit switch is here and here. Everything ends with a special fork. With a sealed fork, we can open it. Here it is completely sealed so that if anything happens, we can remove the drive completely.

This concludes my story about the miraculous transformation of ordinary gates into automatic ones with a budget of 5 thousand rubles.

All rights to the video belong to: DoHow

Reliable, easy to use and easy to manufacture, metal gates are perfect for installation in suburban areas, summer cottages and any other objects. The assembly and installation of the structure in question can be done with your own hands. It’s quite simple and much more profitable than entrusting the same work to professionals. Most often, swing metal gates are installed on individual plots. This is the easiest system to assemble, the device of which can be handled with your own hands without any problems.

Before starting work on installing metal gates, it is necessary to prepare a detailed, competent design of the structure being built. The most important thing is to determine the optimal dimensions.

So, if trucks will pass through the gate, the width of the structure should be 350-400 cm. For passenger cars, a width of 250 cm will be sufficient.

As for the height, for gates in private areas, 200-250 cm is usually sufficient. Everything, again, depends on the size of the car.

Additionally, provide in the design some gap between the ground surface and the gate frame. This gap will allow you to open the gate in snowy weather.

Gate design features

The design of metal gates is based on a frame. To assemble the frame, an ordinary pipe with a diameter of 2-4 cm is usually used. The frame can also be made from a profile with a square cross-section.

Each gate leaf must be equipped with 1-2 horizontal veins, thanks to which a higher rigidity of the system will be ensured. Instead of a horizontal arrangement of veins, you can choose other options, for example, placing one transverse horizontal vein and two diagonal ones.

To assemble the gate yourself, you need to have skills in handling an angle grinder, basic measuring instruments, a welding machine, a screwdriver, and a drill. If you do not have the proper skills, you will have to spend some time learning.

You can use self-tapping screws to secure the sashes, but it is best to use standard fastening using hinges. For one sash, a pair of hinges with a diameter of 2 or 3 cm is enough.

Support posts are made of profiled pipe 2x4 cm or round pipe with a diameter of 7-7.6 cm.

The supports can be erected directly from pipes dug into the ground and secured with concrete mortar. There is also an option according to which the pipes are installed in brick pillars. There must be a couple of embedded parts in the brickwork. Hinged posts of homemade gates will be welded to them.

The locking mechanism of metal gates is usually shaped like the letter “L” and is made of an iron pin. Elements of the mechanism are installed at the bottom of each gate leaf.

In the place where the shutters are fixed, special mounting holes are created in the ground. It is convenient to use metal pipes for their installation. Select pipes such that their internal diameter is approximately 1 cm greater than the thickness of the locking mechanism. It is advisable that the length of these pipes does not exceed 500 mm.

For covering a metal frame, it is most convenient to use profiled sheets. Modern corrugated board fits perfectly into the design of any site. Choose a material that matches well with the fence. The profiled sheet is usually fixed at a height of about 50-70 mm from the base.

What you need for work: list of tools and materials

Prepare in advance everything you will need in the process of performing the work in question.

Kit for self-assembly of metal gates

1. Pipes of the previously mentioned sizes.

2. Brick.

3. Cement grade not lower than M400.

5. Metal profile.

7. Hammer.

8. Rivets.

9. Self-tapping screws.

10. Pencil.

11. Measuring tools (protractor, tape measure).

12. Emery.

13. Bulgarian.

14. Brush and paint (if you plan to paint the gate after installation).

Step-by-step instructions for assembling and installing the gate

The first stage is the manufacture of supports

Prepare materials for assembling gate supports and assemble them into a single structure. You can use pipes and metal profiles as a base. You will also need a channel. It is important that the width of the channel shelf is at least 10 cm. The stronger the support, the longer the entire structure will last.

Stage two – installation of supports

Gate support pillars will be subject to increased load, especially when closing and opening the structure. Therefore, at the stage of installing supports, you will be required to take much more responsibility than when installing an adjacent fence.

The supports are dug into the ground and filled with concrete mortar or covered with a brick base. There is also the option of installing supports directly on brick foundations, but for a beginner it is very difficult to perform such installation correctly.

Make canopies from garage hinges. Select the number of hinges in accordance with the size and weight of the sashes. In most cases, two hinges per sash are sufficient. If the sashes are very massive, increase the total number of hinges to six.

Weld steel plates about 5 mm thick to both sides of each hinge. The plates should be welded over the entire contact area.

The third stage is the installation of support pillars

Make these racks from square metal profiles. Cut a couple of pieces the same length. The immediate length of these parts should be approximately 20-30 cm less than the height of the gate leaves.

Weld the hinge plates to the finished posts. You should end up with two structures that are identical in size and spatial orientation.

Secure the finished structures to the installed supports. Carry out the fastening in such a way that there is a gap of no more than 3-4 mm wide between the supporting pillar and the supporting structure.

Cut the upper part of the metal profile to a suitable length and secure the cut to the top points of the support posts.

Completely fasten all structural elements using a welding machine. Perform spot welding.

The fourth stage is the final one

Install two central posts in the center of the metal gate. Carry out the installation so that there is a gap of about 1 cm between the mentioned elements. The central pillars must be “grooved” by welding. The steel plates are thoroughly welded to the support posts.

To strengthen a homemade gate, take a sheet of steel about 50 mm thick and cut it into 8 parts. Secure the resulting parts to the corners of the gate leaves. Finally, you need to divide the structure into 2 parts using an ordinary grinder to get two identical sashes.

If possible, make gaps of a couple of millimeters in the hinges. These gaps will prevent the gate leaves from moving in the future.

Finally, you can finish the finished gate with your preferred material, for example, paint it.

There are many tools and devices available on the modern market that allow you to automate homemade metal gates. If you are already tired of moving the shutters manually, buy an ordinary linear electric drive, and the problem will be solved!

The automation tool under consideration consists of two linear electric drives and a control unit. The design also includes an electromagnetic lock, a special antenna and a signal lamp.

An ordinary household power supply of 200 W is suitable for powering the automation equipment.

Gate automation can be performed according to three different methods. The specific method is selected taking into account the direction in which the gate leaves open. They can open inward, outward, or inward with modifications to the support pillars. For beginners, it is best to give preference to the option with the doors opening outward.

The control unit can be installed on the right or left. Specific installation recommendations are provided in the accompanying instructions. The instructions also indicate the requirements for wire cross-section. Check all these points before starting automation work.

The installation process itself varies for different models of automation systems. Consider a specific scheme on an individual basis. You will find it in the instructions for your device.

It is important to know one common installation feature for all systems - the drive must be placed at a certain distance from the support pole. You can also find information about the optimal distance in the instructions for your device.

After installing the control unit, using the gate will become much more convenient. You can control the position of the shutters from a special stationary remote control or a portable device in the form of a miniature key fob. There are also designs that automatically open when a car approaches them, but this option is more suitable for sliding gates.

Thus, there is absolutely nothing complicated in building metal gates yourself. You only need to determine the optimal dimensions of the structure, assemble the base, secure all the necessary elements, and finally, if such a desire arises, perform simple work to automate the system. Follow the instructions and everything will definitely work out.

Good luck!

Video - DIY metal gates

Do-it-yourself sliding gates - drawings, diagrams, installation and design details. We have made 100% free sliding gate drawings for you.
You no longer need to scour the Internet in search of sensible drawings, stumbling upon ancient drawings that are devoid of practical meaning, you don’t need to give your Viber or other messenger so that sectarian managers will call you for months. There is no need to buy components at exorbitant prices from companies that promise a “free” drawing when you purchase their product, etc.

"HOW TO MAKE SLIDING GATES WITH YOUR OWN HANDS"

We tried to create a database of sliding gate drawings so that every user who decides to make a sliding gate with their own hands can easily find useful information for themselves. You can find out the general theory about the design of sliding gates in the article sliding gate diagram. It is better to view the drawings on a large-diagonal tablet, desktop computer, or print it out.

BUY SLIDING GATE ACCESSORIES.

A few words on how to use the database. Let's say you have a classic opening 4 m wide. Find a drawing in the range that your opening falls into and feel free to make a gate along it. The fact is that sliding gates must cover the opening in each direction by 100-200mm. Firstly, the gaps are closed, and secondly, such overlap is necessary for proper fixation of the gate with catchers and an upper limiter. In the drawings, the covering of the opening with a sash is indicated - D, there is never too much of it, there is only a little. This is another important advantage of sliding gates - it’s harder to “mess up”
That is, for an opening of 3.9 m and 4.1 m, the sash will be the same, only parameter D will differ, 200 mm and 100 mm, respectively, which is within normal limits. For the required opening of 4 m, the covering will be 150 mm in each direction, which is excellent.
If your opening is, say, 4.15 m, then do it either like 4.1 or like 4.2, it will still work out correctly.

BUY AUTOMATION FOR SLIDING GATES PRICE

Regarding the height of the gate. The database contains drawings for an opening 2 m high from the level of the finished floor; if you have more or less than 2 m, then add or subtract the desired distance from the frame heights and that’s it.
Example: let’s say the height of your gate from zero (in the drawings - H) is not 2m, but 2.5m.
Add 500mm to all heights. and we get: H=2500mm, H2=2430mm, H1=2370, h3=2310mm, h4=2230mm. All.
The same thing applies to the direction of opening - the database contains gates that open to the left, when viewed from the yard; with a right opening, everything will be the opposite without any design changes.

HOW TO CHOOSE THE CORRECT ACCESSORIES FOR SLIDING GATES.

The recommended fittings for sliding gates with a width of 3-5.4 m are SP PREMIER STANDART-500. Your gate will move easily, smoothly and silently. That's how it is in the video.
With fittings from another manufacturer, such a smooth and quiet gate operation may not be possible.

As they say, feel the difference. Gates with fittings from one brand widely advertised on the Internet:

FREE DRAWINGS OF SLIDING GATES:
Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 3.0-3.2 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 3.3-3.5 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 3.6-3.8 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 3.9-4.1 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 4.2-4.4 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 4.5-4.7 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 4.8-5.0 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 5.2-5.4 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 5.5-5.7 m (click to enlarge)
Please note that from this gate size onwards a large guide 94x85x5 is used.
Recommended fittings for gates with a width of 5.4-10 m are STRONG-800 or Roll Grand #1 up to 800 kg.

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 5.8-6.0 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 6.0-10.0 m (click to enlarge)

For such gates, fitting kits for 800 kg with a guide 94x85 and a wall thickness of 5 mm are also used. We recommend STRONG-800 or Roll Grand #1 up to 800 kg.
The technology and methodology remain the same. We calculate the length of the gate structure using the formula: Lopening*1.5+200mm. Where Lopening is the clear width of the opening, the length of the counterweight is 0.5 from Lopening, 200mm is covering the opening with a canvas of 100mm on each side. For such large gates, it is highly advisable to make the counterweight part equal to half the opening. That's all the nuances.

In this article we will tell you about the main secrets and nuances of manufacturing sliding gates. Sliding gates are the best solution for organizing entry into a yard or enterprise territory. Let's consider their advantages: simple kinematics - sliding gates move (roll away) along the fence, requiring less labor to opening and closing are easily and cheaply automated, do not require fixation in the open position - they will not be closed unexpectedly, for example, by the wind, as happens with swing gates. To manufacture sliding gates, special components are required - the so-called fittings for sliding gates or otherwise sliding gate mechanism.
In addition, sliding gates, unlike classic swing gates, require space for rolling back the door leaf and a special foundation. See fig.

To calculate how much space is needed to roll back the gate, you need to multiply the clear width of the opening by 1.4. In other words, the space for sliding should be 40% greater than the width of the opening, since sliding gates consist of a door leaf and a counterweight, the length of which is 40% of the door leaf.

If your site meets these conditions, then you can get down to business. If there is a shortage of space, then the minimum possible length of the counterweight for normal operation of the gate will be 33% less; it is no longer possible - the gate will peck and it will be difficult to “walk”; if there is no space at all, then we must admit that sliding gates cannot be installed and it is worth considering other types, for example, swing, roller, etc. Sliding gates with a wicket - these nuances are described.

So, if everything is in order with the place for the sliding gate, then we proceed to constructing the opening for the sliding gate. First, you need to install pillars enclosing the opening, we will not dwell on this in detail because everything is clear here, we will only note that the pillars should not wobble, be concreted taking into account the depth of soil freezing, and also mortgages (3 pieces each) should be placed on the surface of the pillar facing the courtyard, the strips will subsequently be attached to these mortgages, we will come to this later. The optimal size of each mortgage is 60x60mm. The mortgage must be flush with the brick or protrude slightly; connection with the central pipe in the column is required. If the pillars are metal, then mortgages are not needed - the strips will be welded directly to them. An example of a well-prepared opening:

Scheme of concreting the foundation of sliding gates with electrical wiring: Clickable. More information about the foundation -

After installing the pillars, we proceed to pouring the foundation. You need to dig a hole half the width of the opening. We start from the edge of the opening and move towards the rollback of the gate. The width of the pit is 400-500 mm, the depth is 1000-1500 mm, depending on the soil. For quicksand, swamps, and quicksand, we study construction documentation for foundations. The foundation should not sag, be subject to seasonal sinking, pushing, etc.
After our pit is ready, we make a “banquette”, see fig. higher. We take a channel 10-16 cm wide and also half the width of the opening, weld reinforcement with a diameter of 10-14 mm to the shelves and form an adequate spatial grid from the reinforcement. Next, we fix the bench in the hole, set the surface of the channel to the level of the “finished floor” (final asphalt or tiles), in addition, the surface of the channel must lie exactly at the horizontal level, this is important. We lay the channel close to the post. After this, we fill the pit with solution and wait a week or two.
As a result, after this we will get the following foundation:

The photo above shows the foundation for the sliding gates laid out in the “clean zero” of the yard, but the area will still be filled up. Therefore, it is also important to determine the level of the finished floor of your site before pouring; you may have to install formwork. Now let's move on to manufacturing the supporting frame of the sliding gate.
As a rule, profiled pipes 60x30 and 60x40 with a 2mm wall are used for the external frame, but 50x50, 60x60 are also possible. First, we fence our pipes - remove rust, degrease and prime. In Fig. these pipes are shown in green. We form an external frame from a 60*30 pipe, make sure that all the necessary angles are right, the canvas is in the same plane, and we do not make the common mistake when the frame, usually in the area of ​​the counterweight, lifts up a little along with the guide - everything should be smooth and neat. Welding seams must be continuous, without holes. To weld the gate frame, it is also convenient to use a specialized T-profile, this will significantly reduce the amount of welding work, since in itself it is already the desired combination of pipes 60x40 and 40x20.

Drawing diagram of a sliding gate device in the general case. External frame (green), internal sheathing (red), guide from the hardware kit (black).

The principle of forming a frame for sliding gates:

FREE DRAWINGS OF SLIDING GATES.

And this is a cross-sectional drawing of a sliding gate to help you understand the components of the gate height:

An example of a drawing of a gate frame for an opening of 4 meters and a height of 2 meters.

After this, you need to weld the internal frame (sheathing), which serves to ensure the rigidity of the structure, and also serves to fasten the lining - corrugated sheets, boards, polycarbonate, block house, etc.). The internal frame is made from a 20*20mm, 20*40mm pipe; it is easier to get into a 20*40 pipe with a rivet or a self-tapping screw. The internal frame is shown in Fig. above in red.
Distance “a” is equal to the width of the corrugated sheet used (often 1150mm); the joints of the sheets must pass along the vertical pipe of the sheathing. Distance "b" is equal to the distance remaining after sewing with solid sheets. The outermost sheet is usually always carefully cut to width using a grinder
It should look like this:

If the gate is sewn up on one side, then the inner sheathing can be moved to the edge of the outer frame towards the yard; this is true if the sheathing material is thick, for example corrugated sheeting with a “high wave”, sandwich panels, boards, etc. Welding work, as I already said, is carried out competently so that the pipes do not “lead”, we follow the principle of “chessboard order”. When the outer frame is ready and the sheathing is welded, we weld the guide from the fitting kit to the frame from below along the entire length. It is advisable to fix them with clamps. The guide rail must also be welded in a “checkerboard pattern”, otherwise the gate frame and guide may “lead” from welding and it will resemble a propeller. After this, we clean the weld seams, prime and paint the damaged areas. Sliding gate frame before covering with corrugated sheets:

When the paint is completely dry, we move on to sewing the fabric. We attach the lining material to the internal frame (sheathing) using rivets or self-tapping screws. Sliding gate frame after covering with corrugated sheet:

Please note that this section of the sliding gate counterweight is level and not “lifted up” and this is correct.

Let's consider some of the features of large openings, more than 5 meters. The figure below shows a drawing of a sliding gate for an opening 6 m wide and 2 m high. Please note the design of the counterweight part here is not triangular, but in the form of a rectangle with two diagonals. In addition, with a large opening length of more than 5.5 m, the counterweight should be made at 45-50% of the opening.

Well, the time has come to install the gate. The entire process of installing sliding gates with your own hands is perfectly illustrated in this video.

To begin with, we place the carriages on the foundation and spread them as far as possible within the limits of our counterweight (triangle). See fig.

but we mean that the end roller has a size of about 110 mm, so we place the carriage closest to the opening from the opening, taking into account this distance, and we place the carriage farthest from the opening so that it does not knock out the plug when closed. The wider between the carriages the better, but without fanaticism.

After that, we “roll” our sliding gate frame onto the carriages, set the sliding gates to the level and “grab” the heels of the carriages to the channel by welding, if everything is good, then we scald the heels, if we don’t like something, we set it up again, we achieve the desired result (the position of the gate in level, absence of distortions, etc.) and then scald. Then we weld the upper support rollers, install the end roller, and weld the upper and lower catchers. The rolling roller must roll onto the lower catcher and unload the gate in the closed position.
If your poles are made of metal pipes or channels, then the catchers and upper limiter can be welded directly to the pole. If brick, concrete or stone pillars are used, they need to be attached to a profile pipe-plate (usually 60*30, which is attached to the pillar using mortgages, and in their absence, to dowels, anchors, fittings, etc.

Installation of the upper limiter (upper rollers)

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If you have peaks or a semicircular arch of peaks on your gate, then a so-called portal is used - a U-shaped structure is welded near the pillar, allowing your peaks to pass through in height. The upper limiter is cut in two and welded to the portal so that the rollers “clasp” the gate on both sides. To do this, you need to provide a pipe (flat surface) along which the rollers of the upper limiter will roll. See pic:

Or using a remote pipe (60x40), if it is not possible to implement it as in the photo above, i.e. this way: More details.

Attaching catchers to the strip.

To mount the carriages, you can use a special accessory - adjustment platforms, with their help you can adjust the gate height and eliminate distortions, within some reasonable limits. And also “get out of the situation” in case of any miscalculation. But if all the levels are set correctly and the foundation level is not “filled up,” then your gate will stand correctly and without any adjustments.

The supports are welded to the channel and the carriage is secured with nuts. Do-it-yourself sliding gates will cost you significantly less than ordering "turnkey" from companies. To do this you will need We are always ready to provide you with a wide selection of components for sliding gates and affordable prices. This material will certainly help you make your own sliding gates easily, quickly and without unnecessary overpayments! Assemble the sliding gates yourself - save your money.

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