What to do to prevent the leaves from drying out. Crafts from leaves: new photo ideas, tips, instructions

Who, if not mothers, knows that our children like to remember at 21-22 o’clock in the evening that tomorrow they need to bring a craft from natural materials, a bouquet of dried leaves and flowers, a herbarium and so on. So what should I do? We get ready and go with a flashlight to collect “reserves”, and then spend the whole night sculpting, gluing, painting, most often without the child. And sometimes in the garden they give you a task, it seems like it’s still light, but it’s raining outside. How to assemble required material? In order to at least partially protect myself from this (it won’t be possible completely, unfortunately), I began to collect a “collection” of natural materials, selecting for this a small shoe box and various smaller boxes and boxes, which I put in this same shoe box. shoes Well, plus various books help. So what can we prepare?

1. Dry various leaves. On the way home you pick up a few leaves different trees. You can also have different colors, whatever you come across: yellow, green, red... The main thing is to select the most beautiful ones, and not try to get more. After all, we still have many fine days ahead and we will have time to collect quite a large number of leaves. But let them be the most, most beautiful.

At home, we review the “loot” again; if there are spoiled ones (we accidentally didn’t finish checking them) or you simply don’t like them, feel free to throw them in the trash. Rinse the rest under running water, put it on a surface covered with paper or cloth (I cover it with disposable rags from a roll), let the moisture dry and then put it in a book, and the book can be put back on the shelf. Or you can lay it out between sheets of plain paper and press it down with something heavy. And let them dry, they will come in handy later.

By the way, if you need to dry the leaves very urgently, then place them between two sheets of white paper and iron them several times with a hot iron.

2. “Airplanes” or “pinwheels” from maple. On the way home after the maple seeds ripen, my child and I cut off a few clusters. At home, we carefully remove them from the branches, leaving them in pairs, sort them out, and remove the spoiled ones. Then we wash and dry for several days on any surface covered with paper: on a table, on a windowsill, on the floor. As soon as they are dry, pour them into a box and place them in a large box or cabinet with craft materials.

3. Chestnuts and acorns. Perhaps the most popular material for crafts. And they are not always found on trees growing near the house. Therefore, it’s better to stock up on them in advance, you don’t need a lot, but a dozen or two won’t hurt. By the way, I sometimes find acorns without caps and caps separately. I also collect this, sometimes I need caps, then acorns, and sometimes whole acorns with caps.

After collecting acorns and chestnuts, I wash them well under running water, then dry them for several days in a cool, well-ventilated room (for me this is usually a small barn). After the fruits have dried, I put them in a box, always placing them with crumpled paper (you can also store them in bulk, but with paper they dry out and “shrink” less). Then I put them in a box with the rest of the natural materials.

4. Cones. The principle is the same as with acorns: I collect, wash, dry. Except for some nuances. More often I collect still closed cones, they are easier to wash. And they open later, during the drying process, from the heat. Then I remove some of them in this form, and bleach some of them. They don't turn out perfect whites, of course, but they do lighten up. I do not bleach in bleach, under any circumstances! (For some reason there is a lot of information on the Internet about bleaching in bleach, I tried it, the “petals” of the pine cone changed their structure and became soft). How I bleach: wash well, dry. Then I put it in “mole” or similar products for a while. I take it out, wash it and dry it until the cones open (they close when wet), wash it again and dry it again. Then I place it in a special solution for bleaching wood (I buy it in hardware stores), periodically drying it if the lump is closed. After a few days I take it out, wash it, dry it, wash it again and dry it. That's all. They say that solutions containing acidity also bleach well. But I haven’t tried it, so I can’t say for sure.

5. Various twigs and sticks. Completely “different sizes”: both in length and thickness, even and not so even. They are also a must in my box of natural materials. Well washed and dried.

6. If it is possible to get it, then be sure to put a bag of hay or straw. Might come in handy too.

What else is in the box: rose hips, dried flowers, reeds, some dried flowers, pumpkin seeds, nuts, sunflower seeds. And, of course, interesting pebbles, including flat pebbles. She is so fun to color. And you can add anything you find interesting to the box; the larger the supply, the easier it is to make crafts!

Unfortunately, I can’t show you my box yet, last year’s supplies have run out, and this year’s supplies have just begun to be collected.

How to dry autumn leaves and dry flowers for appliques, read our material.

Rainy autumn days and long winter evenings are simply made for creativity. But the material for it needs to be prepared in advance. Today we will tell you how to properly dry paintings and herbariums.

Almost any flower - from fragile wildflower to luxurious garden rose, any leaf and blade of grass can become not only part of a school herbarium, but also turn into an ikebana, a postcard for your beloved grandmother, material for decoupage, scrapbooking and a real painting that will become an excellent decor for your home. But to do this you need to know how to properly dry leaves and flowers.

There are dozens of ways to dry leaves and flowers. You may be surprised, but the herbarium does not have to be flat at all - if you dry the leaves and flowers correctly, you can preserve their original shape and color. There is even a way to instantly prepare raw materials for crafts from natural materials, which will help you out a lot if you learned that your child needs to bring a herbarium to school tomorrow before bedtime.

How to dry leaves and flowers: Cold drying

The simplest one for everyone known method- dry autumn leaves under pressure, that is, in books and magazines. Leaves and flowers are simply transferred with sheets of paper or paper towels on both sides and placed under a press.

The paper must be changed every day to remove absorbed moisture. Flowers and leaves will be ready to use after a week. If the workpieces have become too brittle, dip them in a solution of water and PVA glue (4 parts water to 1 part glue), and then dry.

Leaves and flowers that you want to use not for herbariums and paintings, but to create garlands or other crafts, can be dried without a press. To dry the plants, lay them out on paper and straighten them carefully.

Tie the flowers in bunches and hang them with the inflorescences down. The room should have good air circulation and relative dryness.

Some plants can be dried horizontally on a wire rack (for example, ivy). Some are best not turned upside down (physalis).

There are also plants that wither faster than they can dry (hydrangea, bulbous plants, heather, chicory). They need air drying by immersing the stems in water: cut the lower part of the stem at an angle of 45 degrees and place it in a vessel with water to a height of 7.5 cm.

How to dry leaves and flowers: Hot drying

Hot drying, that is, iron drying perfect option when to dry the leaves for the herbarium for tomorrow. Also, hot drying can preserve the original color of cornflowers.

Place the leaves and flowers on paper, cover them with another layer of paper and iron them until the moisture evaporates from the plants.

Single large flowers whose petals are rich in liquid, such as roses or tulips, can be dried in the oven at low temperature. Watch the process carefully: the flowers should not turn brown.

How to dry flowers and leaves: Powder drying

This method of drying flowers and leaves is not quick or easy. It will require bulk substances with hygroscopic properties: sifted river sand, semolina or corn grits, salt or crushed chalk.

Powder drying also has its advantage: it completely preserves the shape and vibrant color of plants or inflorescences.

Heat the sand in a frying pan so that no moisture remains and let it cool. Pour 2 cm of sand into a cardboard box and place flowers on it.

Gently sprinkle sand on top until the plants are completely covered.

After two to three weeks, you need to make holes in the bottom of the box so that the sand can spill out.

Shake the dried flowers slightly to remove any remaining sand. Such flowers can be used for three-dimensional paintings or making floral arrangements.

The time has come for autumn preparations. We are not talking about canning tomatoes or cucumbers now. Who has preschool and preschool children in the family? younger age, they will understand what we are talking about. Ahead academic year and time for regular crafts.

We will prepare autumn leaves.

There are many ways: you can press the leaves (remember school herbariums?), preserve them using wax paper, laminate them, use silica gel, and even dry them in the microwave.

In our opinion, the best way preserving leaves - with glycerin. Not the fastest, but the leaves remain soft to the touch, are stored for several years, and are suitable for crafts and room decoration.

You will need:

  • Glycerin (available at any pharmacy, cheap)
  • Containers or trays
  • Autumn leaves
  • Absorbent paper (napkins will do).

1. Choose beautiful leaves. It is better that they are free of stains, bulges and not curled. Place them in a plastic container.

2. Mix 1 part glycerin and 2 parts water by volume.

3. Pour the mixture onto the leaves. To prevent the leaves from floating, you can press them down with something, for example, placing a smaller container on top.

4. Leave for 2-3 days. After that, check. If the leaves are still dry to the touch, leave for a couple more days. The leaves should be soft and elastic to the touch.

You just want to catch the bright colors of autumn and hold on to them longer. Leaves are simply a miracle of shades that should be used to decorate an apartment as part of color therapy. 🙂 But how often, after bringing home some beautiful leaf, we notice that it quickly loses color and shape, and it is useless to use it in decoration.

Today the most successful ways, get water, soda, books :))

Water and bouquets

The easiest way to preserve leaves longer is to pick them directly from the branches. Not to say that the autumn leaves on the branches hold on very tightly, but still this is a great chance to preserve the bouquet in its original form. Before placing the arrangement in a vase, trim the branches with a sharp knife and lightly split them. You can add a few tablespoons of glycerin or a teaspoon of sugar and an aspirin tablet to the water. Periodically sprinkling the leaves with water from a spray bottle will help the bouquet retain its fresh charm.

Skeletonization and decoration

A skeleton in decoration is a somewhat strange combination, unless we are talking about leaves and flowers. This technique allows you to make things so delicate that you can’t believe they are of natural origin.

Need to cook soda solution(about 3 tablespoons per 1 liter of water) and carefully place the leaves in the solution. Boil them over low heat for an hour to two, until the leaves darken, periodically adding baking soda. Then we lay the leaves on paper and hit them with the bristles of a toothbrush. The pulp of the leaf crumbles and a cute skeleton remains. 😉 Then the sheet needs to be dried, you can paint it or leave the resulting natural shades.

Some florists prefer the dry skeletonization method: you can peel the pulp from the leaf without first soaking it. In this case, it is better to use a natural bristle brush, and the stiffer the bristles, the better.

To prevent the sheet from being too brittle after cleaning, you can spray it with hairspray.

Acrylic varnish and garlands

Simple and stylish garlands greatly decorate the veranda and the house, but only if the leaves remain in their original form, without losing their shape and color. Special floral sprays or acrylic lacquer, which is also sold in spray - in construction stores.

Leaves sprinkled with this varnish look shiny and fresh, are protected from damage and do not fade. The varnish is intended for wooden furniture, plastic, glass, but it will also protect leaves perfectly :)

You can also use a special floral varnish for the leaves to make the flowers shine. Another remedy is the usual one vegetable oil, which can be applied to the leaves with a silicone brush.

Drying in a book and vertical decoration

For that type of decor where smooth and clear lines are needed, the leaves can be dried using the old proven method. Place them between the pages of the book, and then move them to a new page every day. The moisture from the leaves will be completely absorbed in about a week; to strengthen it, you should dip them in a solution of water and PVA glue 4:1 and dry well. And then you can use the leaves in their original form, or paint them.

Pictures made from leaves sandwiched between two glasses look very stylish, and this decor lasts for a very long time, the colors do not fade.

From leaves preserved in this way, you can make a panel that looks like it was painted with oil paint.

The beauty of autumn leaves can be enjoyed not only in autumn. Some drying methods may cause leaves to lose or change color. However, there are numerous ways to help maintain color and shape. for a long time. After reading this article, you will learn how to dry autumn leaves so that they delight you in the cold season, when the trees outside are bare and unsightly.

Steps

Decoupage

    Choose bright leaves. Collect freshly fallen, bright and sufficient soft leaves. The leaves may be slightly dry, but not to the point where they break or curl at the sides. Choose whole leaves. Avoid torn or slightly damaged leaves.

    Cover the leaves with adhesive on both sides. For decoupage, a white adhesive is used, which becomes invisible when dried. You can purchase the adhesive at a store that sells art and craft supplies. Use a sponge brush to apply the adhesive. Place the leaves on a sheet of newspaper to dry.

  • In most cases, decoupage should be done on the same day that the leaves were collected. If you put it off, the leaves will dry out, turn brown and become brittle.
  • If the leaves are very wet or if you picked them straight from the tree without waiting for them to fall, they should be dried for a few days. To do this, place the leaves inside a large book.

Wait until the adhesive is completely dry. It should not stick to your fingers. It should also become completely transparent on the leaves.

Repeat on the other side. Turn the leaves over to the other side and apply adhesive to them. When the second side is dry, the leaves are ready to use. This method allows the color and shape of the leaves to be preserved for a long period of time.

Using paraffin wax

  1. Take fresh leaves. Collect freshly fallen bright leaves. Coating with paraffin wax will give the leaves a beautiful shine. Dry each sheet by wiping it with a paper towel before moving on to the next step.

    Melt paraffin wax in a disposable container. 450 g of paraffin wax should be melted in a disposable container, heating it over low heat.

    • To melt paraffin wax faster, cut it into large pieces and distribute them evenly across the bottom of a disposable container.
    • If you don't have a disposable container for melting paraffin wax, use a cake pan that you don't plan to use anymore for cooking. Wax can ruin the shape, so don't use the same pan you cook in.
  2. Remove the melted wax from the stove. Be very careful as the melted wax is very hot. Place it carefully on your desktop. Be careful not to tip the wax container over. This is especially important to consider if you have animals or children in the house.

    Dip each leaf into the melted wax. Hold the leaf by the stem and dip it in wax several times. Make sure that both sides of the sheet are completely covered with wax. Do not put your fingers close to the hot wax to avoid getting burned. Repeat the above steps with the remaining leaves.

    Lay the leaves out to dry. Place each wax-coated sheet on wax paper and leave until the wax hardens. Let the leaves dry for several hours in a draft-free room. After the leaves are dry, they should be special effort removed from paper. Thanks to this method, the shape and color of the leaves are preserved for a very long time.

    • To be safe, cover your work table with newspaper before adding wax paper. This will prevent wax from getting on your workbench. If wax gets on the table, it will be very difficult to remove.

Use of glycerin

  1. Select fresh leaves or a small sprig with leaves. If you want to dry a whole twig with autumn leaves, give preference to this method. Select a branch with leaves that are firmly attached to it.

    • This method may slightly change the color of the leaves. Yellows will become more saturated, reds and oranges will become more vibrant.
    • If possible, look for already fallen twigs instead of plucking them from trees. Remember that such actions can harm the tree.
    • Do not take branches with diseased or frostbitten leaves. This method will not bring the desired result if the leaves have been caught by frost.
  2. Cut off the end of each branch. Hammer the end of each branch to reveal fresh wood. This should be done so that the branch absorbs glycerin better. Otherwise it will not reach the leaves.

    • If you want to dry only the leaves, without the twig, you can skip this step.
  3. Dilute the glycerin solution. It can be purchased at the store. To prepare the solution, mix 530 ml of liquid vegetable glycerin with 2 liters of water in a large container.

    • Glycerin is a natural substance obtained from plants. This leaf storage process is environmentally friendly.
    • If you want to dry the twigs with leaves, add four to five drops of dishwashing liquid. This will make it easier for glycerin to penetrate the wood. For the most best result Use colorless and odorless dishwashing liquid. Alternatively, you can use a liquid surfactant, which can be purchased at a hardware store.
  4. Place the branches with leaves in the solution for three to five days. The twigs and leaves will need to absorb the glycerin for three to five days. Place the container with the solution and twigs in a dark place.

    Remove the twigs and leaves from the solution. The color of the leaves will become brighter. In addition, they will become more elastic. You can use the whole twig or individual leaves to make various fakes.

Using a microwave oven

    Place fresh leaves between two paper towels. This good way dry leaves for fakes. However, be prepared for the leaf color to become duller. Place fresh leaves on a double layer of paper towel. Cover them with a single layer of towel.

  • Use freshly fallen leaves that still bend well. Avoid leaves that have curled ends, are torn, or have stains.
  • For best results, leave small space between the leaves to prevent them from sticking together.
  • Dry the leaves in microwave oven. Place the leaves in the microwave and heat them for 30 seconds. After this, continue heating for 5 seconds.

    • Fall leaves usually need to be heated for 30 to 180 seconds before they become completely dry.
    • Be very careful when placing leaves in the microwave. If you leave them in the microwave for too long, they may catch fire.
    • If the leaves look burnt, you most likely microwaved them. If the leaves are curling at the edges, then in all likelihood they have not been in the microwave long enough.
  • Leave the leaves overnight. Place the leaves in a dark, draft-free place and leave them for at least overnight and up to 2 days. If you notice that the leaves are starting to fade, they urgently need to be treated.

    Spray the leaves with acrylic spray. The leaves need to be processed on both sides. Wait for the leaves to dry. After this, they can be used to make fakes.

    Using the book

      Place the leaves between two sheets of paper. Unfortunately, you will not be able to preserve the color of the leaves using this method. Place the leaves between two sheets of construction paper.

    • Use thick printing paper rather than thin tracing paper. Otherwise, the leaves may leave stains.
    • Lay out the leaves in one layer. Do not stack leaves on top of each other, otherwise they may stick together.
    • Choose leaves from good condition. They should be freshly fallen and moist. Cuttings should not be dried out or twisted.
  • Place a heavy book on the paper. To prevent stains on the book and work surface, place paper napkins or toilet paper between a sheet of paper and a book. They will absorb moisture from the leaves.

    You can also dry the leaves directly in a book, but in this case you should only use an old book, which you won’t mind, as stains may remain. Place the leaves between the pages of the book. For best results, place each sheet at least 20 pages apart.

    • Use a telephone directory if you have one.
    • Place a heavy object on the book. This will cause the leaves to become flat and dry. You can use other books, bricks or any other heavy object.
  • Check the condition of the leaves after a week. They must be dry. If they are still not dry, continue drying for several days.

    Using Wax Paper

      Choose fresh leaves. Use moist, bright and freshly fallen leaves. After the procedure, the leaves will become shiny.

    1. Dry the leaves. Place dry leaves between two paper towels. Place the leaves in a single layer, leaving some space between them. Iron each side with paper towels. Iron each side for 3-5 minutes.

      • Drying the leaves ahead of time will help them maintain their color and quality after covering the leaves with wax paper.
      • Do not use the steam function on the iron when drying leaves. The steam will return moisture to the leaves. Use the dry ironing function.
      • Feel the leaves after ironing them for 3 to 5 minutes. If the sheet is still not dry enough, iron it for a few more minutes on each side.
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    Autumn leaves are the culmination of the season. Colorful leaves can be even more attractive than flowers. However, in order to decorate your home with fall foliage, you will first have to compress or preserve them. Luckily, it's extremely easy and there are 4 main ways to preserve and preserve the colors of fall leaves.

    Selecting Leaves to Preserve

    Whichever method you choose, your leaves will show their best qualities, if you follow the following recommendations when choosing them:

    1. Choose leaves that are relatively flat and not curling.
    2. Look for leaves that don't have spots or bumps.
    3. Don't be afraid to use leaves in different stages of color change.
    4. Leaves with low moisture content are best dried under pressure. More flexible leaves, like those of magnolia or rhododendron, are good candidates for glycerin or silica gel.
    Selecting leaves to preserve is a fun activity for children. And since they are closer to the ground, they often best review for selection.

    Weight pressing is the easiest method for preserving autumn leaves.

    Pressing fall leaves under weight is the easiest way to preserve them, but these leaves will not last as long as preserved leaves. To dry leaves using a press:

    1. Select leaves that are relatively flat and thin, with low moisture content.
    2. Place leaves between sheets of newspaper or wax paper.
    Then pick up a few of your heaviest books and begin step two...

    Weigh down the leaves with weight

    To prevent the leaves from curling, you need to apply significant weight.

    1. Place the paper with leaves inside a thick book. You can also add some books or a rock on top for added weight.
    2. Keep the book in a dry place and check after about a week. Make sure the leaves are dry and not rotten. You will probably need to weight the leaves inside the book for another 1-2 weeks before they are completely dry and ready to use.

    Tip: If you have thicker leaves, soak them in a diluted fabric softening solution before drying. Or try to cover the surface thin layer Vaseline.

    Design ideas:
    . Scatter the pressed leaves on shelves or tablecloths.
    . Make an ikebana display by filling a basket with your pressed leaves.
    . Pressed leaves can be used for table decoration. Make a composition of leaves on a table or tablecloth and cover the top with a transparent cloth or cellophane.

    Preserving leaves in wax paper is a great activity for kids

    Perhaps this is one of the few activities when children will be happy to pick up an iron.

    1. Select thin leaves with low moisture content that have not yet begun to curl.
    2. Make a “sandwich”: Place the leaves between two sheets of wax paper.
    3. Cover your ironing area with a piece of old cloth so that you do not stain it with wax.
    4. Place your sandwich on top of the old cloth.
    5. Cover your sandwich with another piece of old cloth.
    6. Heat the iron to maximum BUT do not use the steam setting.
    7. Slowly move the iron back and forth over the fabric. Don't press too hard at first or you may move the leaves. Once the paper begins to seal, use total weight iron and hold it for 4-5 seconds in each place.
    8. Lift the rag to check if the wax paper has melted and sealed. The leaves will be much more visible as the wax grows.
    9. Allow the sandwich to cool, then cut out individual leaves. Leave a slight edge around the leaves to ensure the wax paper stays sealed.
    These leaves can last for several months.

    Design ideas:
    . Waxed leaves are great for children to play with and can be used to make collages for hanging.
    . Pin individual castings to curtains or glue to lampshades for an autumnal feel.

    Drying leaves in the microwave

    Microwaves - excellent quick way save anything. You can use only the microwave, or speed up the process using silica gel, which will be discussed below.
    1. Select leaves that still have freshness and moisture. DO NOT use dry fallen leaves.
    2. Make a sandwich by placing individual sprigs or flat sprigs with leaves between two paper towels.
    3. Place the sandwich on a tray and place in the oven.
    4. Microwave for 30 seconds and then check the leaves. The thicker or more moisture-rich the leaves, the longer this will take you.
    5. If the leaves are not yet dry, continue drying them at 30 second intervals and checking until the leaves are dry.

    Warning: Leaves can catch fire, just like anything else that has been left in the microwave for long time. So keep watching. DO NOT wait for the leaves to crumble or curl. They can retain heat and continue to dry for a few seconds outside the microwave if you don't want to dry them out.

    Using silica gel to preserve autumn leaves

    Silica gel is White powder, resembling salt, which you can find in small packets in shoes. Silica gel perfectly absorbs moisture and significantly speeds up the drying process. You can buy a package of silica gel at any craft store, or you can collect and save small packages you see around.

    1. Select leaves that are still moist and flexible. Silica gel allows you to dry thicker leaves too.
    2. Spread about 2-3 cm of silica gel on the bottom of a microwave-safe dish.
    3. Place the leaves on top of the silica gel layer, leaving space between them and up to the edges of the dish.
    4. Completely cover the leaves with another layer of silica gel.
    5. Place the uncovered dish in the microwave and turn it on medium power for about 2 minutes. It is very difficult to determine a specific drying time, as it depends on the size of the dish, the number of leaves, the amount of silica gel and the power of your oven. It is better to periodically check the condition of the leaves at short intervals.
    In my experience, 3-4 sheets on an 8 x 8 dish with 3-4 cups of silica gel takes about 2 minutes on medium power.
    6. Let cool and remove the leaves.

    Tip: Leaves will last longer if they are coated with an additional layer of acrylic resin.

    Ideas for Use: These leaves are the same as press dried leaves and can be strung or arranged for fall arrangements.

    Using Glycerin to Preserve Leaves

    Preservation of leaves using glycerin - the best way to maintain their elasticity, and they can remain in this state for several years. You can save individual leaves or even entire small branches this way.

    The most difficult part of the process is purchasing glycerin. Glycerin is very hard to find these days. Sometimes it is found in stores on the shelves next to hand lotion. You'll have to search. You can also ask pharmacies.

    To save individual leaves

    1. On a flat tray, make a solution of one part glycerin and two parts water.
    2. Place your leaves in the solution.
    3. Cover your leaves with another dish so that they are completely submerged in the solution, as shown next.

    Leaves in glycerin solution

    Placing a smaller dish on top of the leaves will help them submerge well in the solution. And this also means that you can use less solution.

    Start checking in 2-3 days. The leaves should become soft and pliable. If the leaves still feel dry to the touch, leave them in the solution for another 2-3 days.

    When they are saturated, remove them from the solution and wipe away any stains.

    Preservation of small twigs in glycerin solution:

    1. Cut off small branches with leaves and immediately immerse the stems in a container with warm water. Let them sit there for about 2 hours, away from direct sunlight.
    2. Make a solution of 1 part glycerin with 2 parts water and bring it to a boil. Then reduce the heat and simmer it over low heat for 5-10 minutes.
    3. Allow the solution to cool completely.
    4. Remove the branches from the container with water, and break their ends with a hammer so that a larger surface can absorb the solution.
    5. Place the branches in a solution with glycerin. Keep away from straight lines sun rays and other heat sources until small drops of dew appear on the leaves. This means that the leaves have absorbed everything they can.
    6. Remove the twigs and dry the leaves.
    7. Hang the branches with their leaves down to dry.

    Design ideas: Glycerin leaves can be used in all kinds of creativity. They are especially suitable for wreaths and garlands, as well as table decorations, napkin rings and large dishes.

    Preservation of pressed and preserved leaves

    No method will allow you to use the leaves forever. Even leaves sealed in wax paper will dry out and crumble over time. If you want to extend the life of your masterpieces for a slightly longer period, use a variety of floral preservatives.

    And of course, on next year there will be different leaves, and every year your skill and creativity will only develop.


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    Particularly presentable to bouquets of dried flowers will be the leaves and fruits, which have retained their color and texture thanks to processing using a special technology. Fresh fruits and freshly cut leaves create beautiful compositions. But these components can also be used as an addition to bouquets of dried flowers, from which they are so different in texture, shape, and color. Leaves and fruits are especially good in golden age when the fading sad beauty of flowers is replaced by the bright colors of autumn.

    Glycerin assistant

    Processing technology based on the use of glycerin helps preserve the beauty of autumn leaves: their colors will become brighter and richer, and a glossy shine will appear. After this treatment, the leaves can retain their color for several years.

    Preparing the leaves

    If there is on the stem lower leaves, delete them. Cut the bark from woody stems (5 cm). Lightly break the ends with a hammer or split them crosswise with a sharp knife so that the solution is absorbed faster.

    Making a solution

    Stirring constantly, dilute 1 part glycerin in 2 parts boiling water, then bring to a boil over medium heat and cool slightly. Pour into a heatproof container, cover and shake to mix the solution well. (If there is any leftover amount of diluted glycerin, it can be refrigerated and stored for later use in an airtight container.) Slowly, slowly, dip the plant stems into the hot solution: it should cover them by at least 8 cm. Place the container with the plants in a cool place, protect from direct sunlight and leave until the solution is completely absorbed. The appearance of droplets of moisture on the leaves indicates that all the glycerin has been absorbed. (The absorption process may take about three weeks.) Check the preparations regularly because the stems of some plants absorb the glycerin solution more quickly. If the liquid has dried up, but droplets do not appear on all the leaves, add an additional portion of the solution into the container (it should be hot, but not boiling). When the leaves have completely absorbed the glycerin, remove them from the container and wipe with a dry cloth. Before using the blanks, dry them for two weeks by hanging them on a rope. Blanks coated with waterproof varnish can be used to make bouquets of fresh flowers. (Such mixed bouquets are placed in water without danger.)

    Preserving large leaves

    Large leaves of some plants such as fig tree and Japanese aralia (Fatsia), cannot be completely saturated with a glycerin solution, so their edges become brittle. These leaves

    preserved differently: separated from the stem, then placed 2-3 leaves at a time in a shallow container with a solution. When they change color and the edges are not brittle, the process can be considered complete (this will take approximately one to three weeks). The leaves are removed from the solution and laid out on blotting paper to dry.

    Leaves garden trees collected in dry weather. Damaged or diseased leaves are not suitable for preservation.

    The leaves of evergreen plants are harvested at any time of the year, and the remaining plants - at the end of summer.

    Philodendron leaves are very beautiful, but they cannot be preserved: they may change color during processing.

    Do not use young spring leaves: they will wither if they cannot withstand the treatment.

    Preserved autumn leaves are stored between the pages of a book, but they are handled with care because many of them become fragile.

    Corn leaves tolerate preservation in a glycerin solution well, which can then be wound onto a stick (once dry, they will take on an unusual shape).

    Attaching leaves

    Place each sheet on a thin wire, masking it with a matching color of electrical tape.

    When can fruits be preserved? Fruit processing takes much less time. It is best to preserve them in late summer - early autumn, although this can be done at any time of the year. Such canned food, which looks very impressive, will serve as a wonderful addition to any composition.

    Quick glitter

    Apply clear varnish to the skin of the apples. Pass a piece of wire through the tail of the apple and connect its ends: this fruit is successfully used in making compositions. Select several apples of different colors.

    Bright pumpkin family

    Members of the pumpkin family are usually grown from seeds in open ground, in a well-lit place. Original fruits appear in autumn various shapes(round, oval), which can be small (up to 5 cm in diameter) and the size of a plate (up to 30 cm). The skin of pumpkins is ribbed and smooth. The colors are extremely varied: creamy white or orange, green and greenish white; There are also striped fruits. Fully ripe pumpkins are harvested in late autumn, on the eve of the first frost. The fruits are picked, keeping a small stem, peeled, dried in the sun for a couple of days, and then stored in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area. Ripe pumpkins are varnished, but they look more impressive in their natural form, so you can limit yourself to polishing the peel. Under trees and bushes you can find leaves devoid of green tissue (that is, their skeletons). They resemble lace and can become an indispensable element of a future composition.

    Raw material

    Particularly picturesque are the skeletons of magnolia leaves, which are bleached or tinted if necessary. Specialized stores will offer you ready-made lace, but you can make it yourself from ivy, laurel or holly leaves.

    We weave lace

    Pour in 225 grams of any detergent in 1 liter of boiling water. Place the leaves in this solution and, stirring with a wooden spoon, boil them for 30 minutes. Rinse the leaves under cold running water and lay them out on paper to dry. Remove green leaf tissues with a brush in the direction from the central vein to the side ones. Rinse the leaves again, pat dry and place between sheets of blotting paper to dry.

    Only the autumn season is rich bright colors the leaves have not yet flown, and if you and your child collect these wonderful gifts of autumn on a walk and prepare them correctly, you will be able to engage in creativity in the winter.

    But before you start collecting natural materials, please note that they should not be collected near roads where the foliage has managed to absorb a lot of exhaust. The implication is that a natural material is an environmentally friendly material.

    How to dry leaves and prepare natural materials

    There are several ways:

    1. Cold drying
    2. Hot drying
    3. Powder drying

    Let's look at each of them in more detail.

    Cold drying

    This is old traditional method, which we all used as children. Leaves and flowers need to be placed under a press. A thick book or a stack of magazines can be used as a press. In order for the plants to dry correctly, you need to place 2 sheets of paper between the pages of the book and only place a leaf or flower between them. Sheets of paper must be changed every day. After a week, the natural material is ready for use.

    If after drying the plants have become too fragile and you are afraid of breaking them, you can dip them in a solution of water and PVA glue and then dry them. The solution is prepared simply: 4 parts water to 1 part glue.

    You can dry plants without a press by simply laying them out on paper. Then the leaves will curl and become deformed. These leaves are suitable for voluminous crafts.

    Hot drying

    How to dry leaves and flowers using a hot method? Using an iron is good for drying leaves and not very voluminous flowers. We place a leaf between sheets of paper and iron it until the moisture evaporates from it. As a result, we will get flat materials.

    For voluminous flowers, such as roses, the oven is suitable. The temperature should not be high. In addition, you will have to constantly monitor the process.

    Powder drying

    In this case, powders mean bulk materials. Dry sand or salt are best suited. In a cardboard box, fill the bottom with sand, place the plant and carefully sprinkle sand on top. In the picture semolina is used as a bulk material.

    If you have a voluminous flower, it is important that there are no empty, unfilled spaces between the petals.

    To remove the plant from the sand, we make holes in the bottom of the box and wait until the sand spills out.

    Drying in this way will take 2-3 weeks, but the plant will retain its shape and color.

    To ensure that voluminous flowers retain their shape even after drying, they can be sprayed with hairspray.

    Only fresh flowers and green leaves are suitable for this method. As a result, the shape of the plants is preserved and they remain resilient. But the color of the plants, unfortunately, is lost. But it doesn’t matter, because the plants can be painted later.

    Making a three-part solution hot water and one part glycerin. Cool the resulting solution and place the plant in it for a period of several days to several weeks. It all depends on the size and volume of the plant.

    A little more beauty:

    It should be noted that these are not all the ways to preserve leaves and flowers.

    How to preserve prepared plants

    Empty cardboard boxes are ideal for storage and should be placed in a dry, dark place. In a dry place so that they do not start to rot, in a dark place so that they are not exposed to sunlight and do not dry out.

    If the plants still dry out and become too fragile, they can be sprayed with water from a spray bottle and left for several hours.

    Such methods of preparing natural materials not only keep children busy, but also develop patience and accuracy. And of course, nothing can replace the atmosphere for a child home warmth and comfort, like a family evening spent doing something creative together.

    Now you know how to dry leaves and prepare flowers. It's time to move on to autumn crafts made from natural materials.

    From dried leaves, flowers and herbs you can create unique paintings - both exquisitely complex and completely simple, which even small children can make. There are several techniques for making paintings, and perhaps you yourself will come up with something new.

    Collect and dry beautiful plants and enjoy creativity with your children, develop imagination, neatness and a sense of beauty.

    Collect leaves, flowers and herbs for future paintings it is possible from spring to autumn.

    Dry They are better in old heavy reference books or magazines. Thick plant stems do not dry well, so it is recommended to cut them in half lengthwise. Leave the plant in the book for 10-14 days.

    Glue take it thick enough so that drops do not form.

    If according to your intention colorful but transparent petals must be superimposed on a dark background and retain their original color, then first you need stick them on thin white paper , cut along the contour, and then include it in the composition.

    So, on a fine autumn day you went out to the park or forest and collected a large collection of beautiful bright leaves and plants.

    Applications can be made as from freshly picked leaves and dried. If you want to preserve the leaves, two drying methods can be recommended.

    The first, well-known, method - putting leaves between the pages of an old unnecessary book. It is better to lay each leaf on both sides with a paper napkin.

    The second method is express drying of leaves using an iron. Just remember that the leaves are not sterile, so it’s better to iron them on a surface that you don’t mind throwing away later, for example, on large sheets paper You also need to place a sheet of newsprint or a paper napkin on top of the sheet before ironing. And now more details.

    Powder drying

    This method of drying flowers and leaves is not quick or easy. It will require bulk substances with hygroscopic properties: sifted river sand, semolina or corn grits, salt or crushed chalk.

    Powder drying also has its advantage: it completely preserves the shape and vibrant color of plants or inflorescences.

    Heat the sand in a frying pan so that no moisture remains and let it cool. Pour 2 cm of sand into a cardboard box and place flowers on it.

    Gently sprinkle sand on top until the plants are completely covered.

    After two to three weeks, you need to make holes in the bottom of the box so that the sand can spill out.

    Shake the dried flowers slightly to remove any remaining sand.

    Such flowers can be used for three-dimensional paintings or making floral arrangements.

    Drying fast-withering plants

    There are also plants that wither faster than they can dry (hydrangea, bulbous plants, heather, chicory). They require air drying and immersion of the stems in water.

    Cut the lower part of the stem at an angle of 45 degrees and place it in a vessel with water to a height of 7.5 cm.

    Drying plants using a hot method (express drying)

    Hot drying, that is, drying with an iron, is an ideal option when you need to dry the leaves for the herbarium for tomorrow. Also, hot drying can preserve the original color of cornflowers.

    Wipe the leaves with a damp cloth or cotton pad to remove dirt and dust. There is no need to wet or rub too much so as not to damage the fragile surface.

    Line your ironing board with clean paper and place the leaves on it.

    If you use newspapers, be careful, as printing ink can print on both the leaves and the surface of the ironing board.

    Cover the top with another sheet of paper.

    Switch the iron to minimum temperature and check that there is no water in it. If your iron does not have very high power, then you can set the temperature closer to average, but not maximum, because an iron that is too hot will ruin the leaves.

    Iron the leaves several times, then remove the paper and turn them over to the other side. Cover with paper again and iron.

    Repeat the procedure until the leaves are completely dry.

    Drying plants for garlands and crafts

    Leaves and flowers that you want to use not for herbariums and paintings, but to create garlands or other crafts, need to be dried without a press.

    To dry, place the plants on paper and straighten them carefully.

    Tie the flowers in bunches and hang them with the inflorescences down. The room should have good air circulation and relative dryness

    Drying plants and leaves under pressure

    Drying leaves under a press is the most famous and simplest method.

    Leaves and flowers are simply transferred with sheets of paper or paper towels on both sides and placed under a press, or in books and magazines.

    The paper must be changed every day to remove absorbed moisture.

    Flowers and leaves will be ready to use after a week.

    If the workpieces have become too brittle, dip them in a solution of water and PVA glue (4 parts water to 1 part glue), and then dry.

    Leaves dried and processed in this way are ideal exhibits for a herbarium.

    Drying plants on a wire rack

    Some plants can be dried horizontally on a wire rack (for example, ivy). Some are best not turned upside down (physalis).

    Drying flowers in the oven

    Single large flowers whose petals are rich in liquid, such as roses or tulips, can be dried in the oven at low temperature.

    Watch the process carefully: the flowers should not turn brown.

    Before you start work, cover the table with oilcloth so as not to stain it with glue. Prepare the base - a sheet of cardboard, collected or dried leaves, scissors, glue (preferably PVA), tweezers.

    First you need come up with a future picture . Then arrange it on a separate sheet of paper. And only then start gluing the individual leaf parts to the base. It is best to apply the glue in droplets along the edges. If you apply glue to the entire surface of the sheet, it may warp when drying the application.

    Need a finished picture put under a press for one or two days. Don't forget to do it for her frame!

    Types of applications

    Overlay applique.

    Try to start by coming up with pictures that do not require cutting out any details from the leaves, but are created by overlaying the leaves. You can come up with a lot of such pictures: butterflies, mushrooms, chickens and other birds... The missing elements can be drawn in with a felt-tip pen or made from other natural materials.

    Having mastered simple pictures, children can begin to come up with multi-tiered images. In this technique, leaves are glued on top of each other in layers. The application will turn out bright and cheerful if the leaves are different in color.

    Silhouette applique.

    In this type of appliqué, excess parts of the leaf are cut off so that the result is exactly what the little artist intended.

    Modular application (mosaic).

    Using this technique, a picture is created by gluing many leaves of the same or similar shape and size (or, for example, maple seeds). This way you can make the scales of a fish, the tail of a cockerel or a firebird.

    Symmetrical applique.

    It is used to create individual images or entire paintings with a symmetrical structure, as well as to obtain two completely identical images (for example, reflection in water). To do this, you need to select similar leaves to get an image with its “reflection” or symmetrical in itself (“Butterfly”, “Dragonfly”, “Landscape with a lake”, “Boat on the river”).

    Ribbon applique.

    A type of symmetrical appliqué. Its difference is that it allows you to get not one or two, but many identical images - ornaments. You get a whole “round dance” of trees, flowers, mushrooms, butterflies, etc.