DIY two-level ceiling. How to make a round wall from plasterboard - detailed instructions Installing the top-level frame

Various niches (with decorative lighting or simply highlighted in color), ledges and shelves formed by wall elements and having both regular and fancy shapes– diversify and complement the design of the room, hide technological communications, brighten up the possible nondescript contours of the original layout of the room. Non-standard solutions allow you to add individuality, set the “mood” of the whole room or part of it: create a cozy corner in the room or, on the contrary, emphasize the business aspect of the room.

Protrusions and niches, of course, can be made from brick and various blocks, bent elements can be sculpted from papier-mâché or cast from plaster, but in 99% of cases the task at hand can be solved easier and more economically - with the help of plasterboard structures. Mounting plasterboard structures on the wall with your own hands is not difficult; you will need a little patience and perseverance.

To create plasterboard structures on the wall you will need the following materials:

• UD profile (so-called “guide”);
• 9mm thick plasterboard sheets (“ceiling”);
• corner protection profile;
• a box of screws for the profile (the so-called “bugs”);
• a box of screws for attaching drywall to the profile;
• fine-grained gypsum putty for final finishing (“finish”);
• It is possible to pack sets of dowels for fastening to a concrete/brick wall, if required.

From the tool you must have:

• metal scissors for working with profiles;
• screwdriver;
• an extended screwdriver blade (can be made from an inexpensive suitable screwdriver by breaking the handle);
• long metal ruler;
• construction knife (with replaceable break-off blades);
• wide roller with long pile (for wetting drywall).

The possibilities for the shapes of plasterboard structures are wide, but not limitless. Our future structure must be mentally divided into its component parts - individual elements that will have their own separate profile frame. Individual elements can have the shape of a parallelepiped, a truncated pyramid, a sector, an arc - it all depends on your imagination.

The edges of the elements can be smooth or arched. Moreover, an arc can be two faces at once, and an arc can have several bends. Minimum thickness such an element is limited by the width of the base (or edge) of the UD profile + the thickness of the plasterboard sheet. The maximum dimensions are limited by imagination and the size of the room.

I will describe the step-by-step procedure for installing plasterboard wall structures of varying complexity using the example of the wall of an apartment in a monolithic building, in which the builders protrude from the wall by 250 mm, forming not very attractive rectangular niches.

In the area of ​​the left niche in the room, a place was designed for family relaxation and communication - which means the place for the TV is in this niche. Around the TV we design simple rectangular shelves in 2 rows. Our shelves will be illuminated. We decorate the top of the niche with an arch.

Photo of niches and shelves made of plasterboard for example -

The niche will be two shades darker, and the color a little cooler than the rest of the walls, which will visually make the niche deeper and the room larger. Before starting work, we lay out the wiring for future lighting, power supply for the TV and related devices, speaker system wiring, Internet and TV cables. In the area of ​​the right niche in the room, a work corner with a table, space for a laptop, shelves with office equipment and books above the table is designed. It turns out to be a corner office.

We decorate the right niche with a wide narrow arc with narrow decorative shelves, leaving space for a bookshelf. Although the “rest area” and “office” are planned to be separated by a narrow long aquarium, the design of the two niches harmoniously overlaps, forming one whole.

This is achieved by maintaining the same level for the key points of the two structures. For example, the top edge of the bottom shelf on the left is located on the same level as the bottom edge of the arc on the right, and the top edge of the bottom shelf on the right coincides with the top edge of the top shelf on the left, and so on.

This is not noticeable to the naked eye, but our subconscious records this fact, unmistakably capturing the orderly in the seemingly disordered. Without a drawing it will not be possible to maintain such proportions - every millimeter is important, especially for curved surfaces.

Thus, we get 3 types of structures, different in manufacturing complexity, by combining and modifying which you can get almost any conceived design:

• rectangular shelf;
• arch;
• thin decorative arc.

Rectangular shelf

A rectangular shelf is the simplest design on a plasterboard wall. The installation technology is the same as during manufacture plasterboard box: a frame is made from a UD profile directly on the wall. To do this, first screw the rectangle of the contour of our future shelf to the wall. We make the frame parallel to the wall, screw the edges of the frame perpendicular to the wall. The frame is ready.

There is no need to overdo it with additional partitions in the frame; it is enough to make only the ribs. The frame itself may not be rigid enough, but by covering the edges of the shelf with plasterboard, we will give the structure the necessary rigidity.

Use a level when installing. Lapped and skewed edges look terrible, unless of course this is provided for by the design. So you will have to work hard with precision, both with making the frame and with cutting and screwing the drywall. Minor defects will be hidden with putty, but it is much easier to avoid these defects than to then apply layer after layer of putty in an attempt to correct the situation.

Cutting drywall evenly couldn't be easier. You will need a long metal ruler and a construction knife. We draw a knife along the ruler from the edge of the plate to the next edge, cutting the layer of cardboard. We break the plaster slab on the edge of the table - the break will be along the cut line. We cut the cardboard from the opposite edge along the break. The corner perforated profile protecting the corners does not need to be screwed. It is glued to the putty and closed with it.

Arch

An arch is a little more difficult to make than a rectangular shelf, but the principle is the same, with the exception of the bent edge. It should be noted that for shaped structures there is a special sheet of plasterboard with notches and an elastic backing. However, such material is much more expensive, and you can’t buy it everywhere. We'll get by ceiling slab 9mm thick.

We will need a template for drawing the curve outline on the wall and a sheet of drywall. To make a template, we print our drawing in natural sizes, glue the sheets together and cut out the template. We make the frame for the bent edge from the same UD profile, but we cut the side ribs of the profile symmetrically to the base with a step of ~40mm. It turns out to be a kind of flexible “lizard spine with spikes” from the base of the profile and protruding rectangles - the ribs.

Using these same rectangles, we screw the profile to the wall, orienting the base of the profile along the contour previously drawn on the wall. We assemble the edge of the structure parallel to the wall directly on a sheet of drywall along the marked contour of the bend, and cut off the excess material at the bend directly along the frame. We assemble the box, leaving only the bent edge at the end.

We will bend the sheet of drywall using ordinary water– simply moisten the side of the sheet with a roller, which will have a large radius. Before starting to install the bent edge, you need to install a stop for the sheet from the edge from which you will start bending - a wooden block or piece of profile will do. The screwdriver is loaded, are the screws conveniently at hand? Begin!

Everything needs to be done quickly and the first time. Only the cardboard and the layer of plaster closest to it should get wet. If the sheet is over-moistened, the gypsum will become loose and crumble, and the screws will press the sheet with their heads and go right through. After all, the sheet, like a spring, will try to take an even position. A sheet that is too dry will break. So we go over it with a roller, generously moistened with water (so that it flows), quickly apply the sheet to the stop and, pressing it to the frame, quickly screw the sheet in small increments, bending the sheet more and more step by step. We walk parallel on both sides to prevent skewing. If everything is done correctly, and the bending radius is not extremely small, then there should be no problems. We can also perform an S-shaped bend using this method, if your design requires it.

Thin decorative arc

The arc differs in installation from the arch in that it has two curved edges. It’s just as much more difficult to make an arc than an arch. The design assumed an arc thickness of 60 mm. Therefore, a profile with a 40mm base was chosen, and cuts on the profile were made along one of the ribs and the base. That is, load-bearing element the profile remained the second profile rib.

Otherwise, the procedure remains the same with the installation of the arch. In our case, the edge of the arc with a large radius of extreme points comes close to the wall. This means that it will not be possible to mount the structure directly on the wall. The wall will not allow you to tighten the screws at the edges of the arc. We mount the arc on a temporary base, for example on wooden shield or an old door. Let the drywall dry thoroughly. We unscrew the edge parallel to the shield, unscrew the structure from the temporary base and move it finished design on the wall.

Decorative coating

Matte paint perfectly emphasizes the elegance of plasterboard structures on the wall and is the easiest to apply decorative coating. It is also easy to choose a dark and cool tone of the main color to highlight or emphasize the design. However, wall paint also highlights all defects well, especially holes when puttying.

Decorative plaster is an excellent alternative in this case, it hides minor defects, you can flexibly select the color, but it costs more and is more difficult to apply. Wallpaper can also be used, but provided that the plasterboard structure does not have a very complex shape, otherwise this process threatens to become a very difficult task.

Express your individuality! I hope this article helps you.

Economical and easy to install, LED strip is widely used for lighting decoration of ceilings. And in most cases, such decor involves constructing a niche made of plasterboard under LED backlight– a special ledge on which the lighting elements will be placed.

In our article we will describe the technology for manufacturing such parts. suspended ceiling, and also in just a few words we will tell you about the features of connecting LED lighting.

Materials and tools

A plasterboard niche for LED lighting is a specially shaped cornice that runs along the perimeter of the room or along the edge of the elements of a multi-level ceiling.

You can see examples of such design solutions in the photo in this article.

It is also possible to manufacture recesses in the wall with decorative lamps. True, in this case, LED strips are rarely used; spotlights are more often used.

To build such a structure we will need:

• Drywall (regular or moisture resistant).
• Profile (starting and main).
• Ceiling direct suspensions.
• Fastening elements (dowels for fixing the frame to the ceiling, self-tapping screws for profiles and plasterboard).

Among the tools with which we will create a design for plasterboard lighting, we will need:

• Hammer or hammer drill with a pobedit drill.
• Screwdriver.
• Screwdriver attachment for working with plasterboard.
• Metal scissors.
• Pliers.
• Assembly knife.
• Screwdrivers.
• A set of tools for puttying and finishing gypsum boards.

All these tools should be at hand - only then can we start working.

Installation of a cornice for LED strip

Frame assembly

Cornice made of gypsum plasterboards for installation LED strip mounted on a special frame. To make the frame we use galvanized metal profiles, used to assemble the lathing of a suspended plasterboard ceiling.

Note! The structure can be mounted either on a permanent ceiling or on a single-level plasterboard ceiling.

We assemble the lathing according to the following scheme:

• Using a level, draw a horizontal baseline on the walls. The line distance from the ceiling should be 7–10 cm.
• Along the perimeter of the room along the base line we attach the starting profile for the gypsum board.
• Having retreated 150-200 mm from the wall, we attach the same starting profile to the ceiling, forming an internal perimeter.
• We attach sections of the main profile to the starting profile on the ceiling every 40-50 cm. The length of the segments should be equal to the distance from the ceiling base to the base line.
• We connect the wall starting profile with hangers from the main profile using 300 mm long panel sections. The projections are 150 mm and will be the main one for the load-bearing cornice.
• Frames of large dimensions can be further strengthened with panels of the main profile, securing them to the bottom side.

Note! At this stage, it is necessary to lay the wiring to connect electrical appliances. We lay the wiring in plastic corrugated pipes, fixing them to the vertical posts using clamps.

Profile covering

When the frame is assembled, you can begin covering it with gypsum board sheets.

You are most likely already familiar with the technology of sheathing from numerous videos on our website, so here are only general instructions:

• We cut a narrow strip from a sheet of plasterboard and sheathe the vertical part of the frame, hiding the laid wiring behind the sheet.
• If it is necessary to sheathe a curved surface, we roll the gypsum board with a needle roller and bend it after preliminary moistening.
• We sew a gypsum board strip onto the lower part, forming the base of our structure.

Exist different types plasterboard niches for hidden lighting.

With an open one, you can immediately install electrical appliances on the ledge, but with a closed one, everything is somewhat more complicated:

• Closed niches made of plasterboard with lighting are equipped with a special side that directs the light to the ceiling (see also the article about).
• To form it, we attach a starting profile to the edge of the gypsum board protrusion and fix a strip of gypsum board up to 50 mm high to it.
• On outside corner we glue a special plastic or metal overlay, which should protect the plasterboard sheathing from damage.

After the frame is formed and sheathed with gypsum board, it can be puttyed and finished (painted, plastered, wallpapered). After finishing, we proceed to the final stage - installing the LED strip with our own hands.

Connecting the backlight

Before installing LEDs in a plasterboard niche, the tape must be prepared:

• From the coil of tape we cut off a fragment of the length we need. You only need to cut the tape in places that have special markings.
• If necessary, we connect several tapes into one using special connectors. You can also simply solder the contacts using a soldering iron.

Advice! It is better to connect sections longer than 5-7 m in parallel, so the glow will be uniform along the entire length.

• We connect the LED lamps to the power supply, observing the polarity. When choosing a power supply, it is better to buy a model whose power is 25-30% greater than the total power of the LEDs connected to it.
  Of course, the price of such a power supply will be slightly higher, but there will be a guarantee that it will not burn out after several months of operation.

• To connect color lighting we use a special RGB controller.
• Checking functionality assembled system. If everything lights up the way we want, we can stick the tape on the cornice.
  
• We lay the connected tape behind the side, making sure that the wires or lamps do not come into contact with the metal elements of the sheathing.

Summarizing

A properly equipped plasterboard niche for lighting can radically transform appearance premises. So if you are interested in lighting decor, we hope this article will be useful to you!

Photo gallery

With sheets of plasterboard you can:

• cover any surface;
• hide those places that spoil your interior, especially for toilets and baths;
• make shelves from plasterboard and place various objects on them;
• install partitions, thereby creating a full-fledged room;
• mount niches for a TV or other structural elements.

For craftsmen who like to make things with their own hands and create comfort in their homes on their own, drywall in combination with a metal profile has become simply an irreplaceable material, as it has amazing qualities:

1. Ecologically pure.
2. Makes it possible to change the space without using “wet” processes and quite quickly.
3. Durable.
4. Mounted on a frame made of wood or metal.
5. Frameless installation is possible.
6. Suitable for any facing material.
7. Easily cuts.
8. The design of plasterboard walls provides the opportunity to use various configurations in the interior.
9. The cost of the material is low.

So, if you have a passionate desire to create a cozy atmosphere in your home, then you will certainly find it useful step-by-step instruction for the installation of certain structural elements.

Construction of a box made of plasterboard and metal profile

Many of us want to close the pipes in the bathroom, hide the sewer in the toilet, or get rid of risers, which spoil the interior of the room with their appearance. A plasterboard structure called a box will cope well with this task.

This element makes it possible to get rid of the unattractive appearance of communication systems. No one sees a boner with a hot or cold water, and he continues to perform his direct functions.

Depending on the wishes, potential and location of the highways, the riser can be closed:

1. The entire wall.
2. Only pipes.

In the first case, by sewing up the entire plane, we reduce the usable area, although you can install shelves or niches for storing various objects and things. In the second, we close only those areas where the pipes pass. This option is the most acceptable, since installation is quite quick and makes it possible to save money on the purchase of material.

When thinking about how to visually remove the communications maintenance system, you must remember that if it breaks, you will have to break, if not the entire structure, then at least a part. And this will ruin the decoration of the room and you will have to do the repairs again.

You can build a collapsible box in the toilet, this option is not used very often, or install small doors (hatches) for access to communication elements (valves, meters, fittings).

Remember that most often problems occur at the joints - the smaller their number, the easier it is to operate the pipeline. Before starting work, conduct a thorough inspection of the line. If there are defects, eliminate them, get rid of rust (if any).

You can not be afraid of leaks and can safely close soldered or welded connections. A threaded connections should be left open.

Materials and tools

If you need to close unattractive places yourself, you need to know how to make a box for pipes in the bathroom and choose the right material. Since there is always high humidity in the bathroom, not all materials are suitable for the job. They must meet the established requirements:

• be resistant to moisture;
• have little weight;
• made from environmentally friendly components.

Let's say paper wallpaper in the bathroom you will have to change it in a couple of months, which means that tiles are best suited for tiling. Where to attach it if there is no foundation. It is best to use a metal profile rather than wooden blocks. The latter will begin to deteriorate over time, especially if they are in a humid environment. In this option, you need to choose a species that is resistant to rotting and treat the surface with an antiseptic.

But nothing will happen to the metal. It will last a long time. More details about the technical characteristics of the profiles can be found in the article “”. Select fasteners according to the article “”, they are produced according to GOST 11652-80, 10619-80.

To work you will need the products shown in the figure.

Prepare from tools and equipment.

Determining the dimensions of the structure

It is necessary to determine in the room where the pipe box will be installed. All measurements are made using a tape measure. First, we will make a drawing on paper, which will depict the future structure with all the elements and technological hatches. You need to know that in the places where they adjoin, you need to make reinforcements from profiles. The future structure must be reliable and strong.

Box drawing

If you have to close pipes that are located in the corner part of the room, then the box will have two sides, and if the riser is sewn up in the middle of the wall, it will have three.

On the drawing, mark all types of connections, indicate the installation diagram of the profiles. Now you can definitely purchase the necessary elements and correctly calculate the material for the job.

The distance between the pipe and the box should not be less than 30 mm.

Marking

Before making a box from plasterboard, you need to find the most protruding places of the riser, which will set the boundary of the future structure, and mark them. From the base point on the ceiling, using a square, we draw perpendiculars to the walls. The resulting rectangle should cover all the protrusions of the riser. Next, we lower the plumb line from the point and the contact mark shows the base mark on the floor. From it we will draw perpendiculars to the walls.

Now let's connect the lines along the wall and get a straight line on which we will install the rack profile.

Frame installation

Profiles must be mounted to the wall taking into account the finishing materials so that they do not adhere closely to the pipes.

Using a drill, we drill holes into which we then hammer in plastic dowels. We attach the rack profile (27x28) to the wall with screws, and the guide (27x60) to the ceiling and floor. Install the front edge of the box. It is obtained at the intersection of guide profiles along the ceiling and floor. This is done using a cutter or self-tapping screws.

If the width of the box is more than 250 mm or its height is more than 1500 mm, it is necessary to install transverse jumpers between the vertical posts. They are installed at a distance of no more than 1000 mm and serve as stiffening ribs for the structure. In addition, sheets of plasterboard are then mounted on them.

All fastening points should be placed on the same straight line to form a solid continuous plane for the edges of the structure, otherwise distortions are likely to occur.

The plasterboard box in the bathroom and toilet is assembled according to the same principle. Its installation is quick, the structure is compact, the distance from the profile to the pipe is no less than 50-60 mm.

Drywall installation

Before covering the pipes with plasterboard, it is necessary to cut the sheet so that the box is covered with strips and not pieces. Pre-cut side faces, their width is equal to the width of the frame. The sheet cannot protrude beyond the border of the rack. To do this, you can use a roughing plane.

Now we measure the exact size of the remaining edge and cut a strip of drywall so that it fits the edges of the side strips. We fasten the plasterboard to the profile with self-tapping screws (35-45 mm) every 150-250 mm to the main posts. Just don't forget about the inspection hatches. You can buy them in the store; manufacturers offer a large selection various sizes. You will learn how to cut holes in drywall in another section of this article. This completes the installation of the box.

After you have made a plasterboard box with your own hands, you can begin to putty it. And what Decoration Materials you use to create a pleasant interior - tiles, paint or plaster – the choice is yours.

Making shelves from plasterboard

When working with plasterboard sheets, it is not always possible to avoid waste: you made a mistake in calculating volumes or changed the design during the renovation. There may be various reasons. Some stores are ready to accept large pieces, but not everyone is so lucky; this is rather an exception to the rule.

If you are a craftsman, do not rush to take the leftovers to the garage, but decorate the interior of your home. Make the environment more comfortable and get rid of old furniture. Believe me, a plasterboard shelf will definitely find its application in the living room, bedroom or hallway and can:

• be an element of decor in the room;
• a place to store things, books, interior accessories;
• pedestal for collectibles;

A plasterboard TV shelf is not a dream, but a reality. You just need to choose the right profile and use a sheet in two layers. However, modern televisions not so heavy, and beautiful shelf can be ideal place for plasma panel.

We will tell you how to make plasterboard shelves with your own hands in this section. The whole process consists of certain stages.

We need tools.

Materials you will need:

1. Drywall, preferably 12.5 mm thick. If you are planning to install a shelf in a room with high humidity, then you should take a moisture-resistant one - GKLV (moisture-resistant plasterboard).
2. Metal profiles – guides and racks.
3. Fasteners – screws, self-tapping screws, dowels, wedge anchors, special fasteners.

Drawing

Before starting work, you need to know exactly what functions the shelf will perform, whether it should be reinforced with additional jumpers or not. If heavy objects will stand on it, the frame must be strong enough. Next, imagine what it will look like and transfer your wishes to paper. Don't forget about the exact dimensions.

The calculation of the volume of material used depends on this.

You need to start with simpler designs - by making straight shelves. And in the future, experiment with more complex configurations and projects.

Marking

Having determined the place where the plasterboard shelf should be, we begin marking. In your work, use a tape measure and a square. Do not forget about the thickness of the cladding of the finished product.

Unfortunately, modern apartments cannot boast of smooth wall surfaces, horizontal floors and ceilings, or ideal angles. Therefore, the building level should be with you at all times.

We set aside the dimensions strictly according to the drawing. The quality of the future structure, its appearance and strength depend on how correctly the horizontal and vertical lines are drawn.

Shelf installation

You can now install profiles using the intended marking grid. The process itself depends on the design configuration. First, install horizontal or vertical parts. According to the plan, which is shown in the “Drawing” subsection, we begin to work with the vertical stand.

To do this, we drill a hole for the dowels, with their help we will attach the rack profile (27x28) to the wall. There should be three or more of them per part. We check the position with a level and hammer in the part using a 6x40 wedge anchor. We combine them with each other using self-tapping screws or a cutter with a guide profile (27x60). WITH right side screw the strip of drywall in increments of 150-250 mm. The second sidewall, like all subsequent ones, is assembled in exactly the same way.

Next, we mount the frame between the vertical posts; to do this, we fasten the rack profile along the marked lines, and fix the guide, which is adjacent to the plasterboard sheet, with self-tapping screws along the edges, turning the plaster and the back profile through to the profile. In this case, in the frame of the part on which the sheet is attached (namely, to which these screws are twisted), the profile must be laid in a horizontal position - just like on the partition, but in this case it is used as the main part of the load-bearing structure of the shelf. This way the shelves will hold securely and firmly, this will be facilitated by plasterboard blanks screwed to the frame on the other side.

Ultimately, the process of installing a plasterboard shelf will end with a design that you can see in the photo, or another one that you come up with yourself.

Next, you can putty the seams, seal the holes from the heads of the screws, prime the surface and veneer the shelf. If desired, it is ennobled with mirror panels, other materials are used, or simply covered with paint to match color range premises.

You need to screw profiles to brick, concrete and plastered surfaces using dowel nails or anchor wedges if it is a hard surface. If the wall is made of aerated concrete, then you need to use special fasteners, and if the surface is made of plasterboard, use other hardware, which you can read about in the article “”. When you have a wooden base, then to work you need to take wood screws.

You can install plasterboard shelves in a room where renovations have already been done. True, in this case you have to work more carefully, especially with markings, because corrections may result in the marks being visible on the cladding. The work is performed in the same order, only it is better to cut drywall and profiles not in a renovated room. The installation process will be much easier if the work is carried out during the repair. In this option, you can follow all the design rules, and the new element will fit harmoniously and effectively into the interior.

How and with what to cut drywall

1. Gypsum core

2. Cardboard shell

As you can see in the picture, this is a sandwich consisting of a gypsum core and two layers of cardboard. Gypsum itself is a fragile material. But thanks to special additives and reinforcement on both sides with cardboard, which is impregnated with a special composition, the sheet is able to withstand sufficient loads. It is produced according to GOST 6266-97, with its characteristics and technical indicators can be found in the article "".

Working with this material is easy and interesting. Can:

• make your own shelf or niche for a TV from plasterboard;
• install a figured partition;
• hide what you don’t really want to see;
• Put things you are proud of on display for everyone to see.

To create masterpieces that will decorate any home, you just need to have imagination, manufacturing information and know how to handle drywall. As for the latter, the skill lies in knowing how and with what to cut it. After all, during the repair process you need to cut out broken lines, cut the sheet in a straight line or make holes.

To cut drywall, you need:

• pencil,
• roulette,
• corner ruler,
• preferably a racer,
• if there is a large amount of work to be done, use a roughing plane.

When working with this material, it is better to use not a marker or a pen, but a pencil; traces of it are not visible after putty, which cannot be said about the listed items. A plane is needed to straighten the curved edges of gypsum boards. The surface for working with plasterboard sheets must be flat - most often it is a stack of sheets, the floor, and ideally a large table.

Now about the tools. The blades must be sharp, they must be held perpendicular to the sheet, only in this case you will get an even and smooth cut.

In a straight line

For this purpose, a special knife for drywall or a regular construction knife (clerical knife) will be useful. The good thing about these tools is that the length of the blade is adjustable. And this is required in order not to cut through the second layer of cardboard.

Before cutting the sheet, we carefully take measurements using a tape measure or ruler. We put marks on the sheet with a pencil and connect them common line. Immediately, without removing the ruler, draw a knife along the intended line. The depth of the cut should be such that the knife blade does not reach the second layer of cardboard.

It is enough to cut only the cardboard, and the plaster will break effortlessly along the cut line.

Now we move the sheet to the edge of the table and lightly tap the cut line with our fist. We carefully bend it, it breaks along the cut line, and the halves of the sheet are held in place by a whole layer of cardboard. We cut the sheet from the back side with a knife, and clean the cut with a roughing plane.

Curvilinear shapes

The most practical tool for this work can be called a jigsaw. True, you can use a hacksaw or knife, but the cuts will be rough and you will have to spend a lot of time getting them in order. The jigsaw can handle any curved shapes.

We first lay the sheet in such a way that the cut-out area is located suspended or between two objects at a slight distance from each other.

When working, nothing should interfere with the tool blade.

We draw the outline of the figure with a pencil and, after putting on personal protective equipment, since there will be a lot of dust in the process, we begin cutting the sheet. The cut lines are high quality, even and smooth.

Round shapes

Often you have to cut a circle in drywall. Of course, they can be cut using a jigsaw or a construction knife. But the end result is unlikely to please you, and a lot of time and nerves will be spent on the work. It is more convenient to make holes for sockets or light bulbs using a crown that is attached to the chuck of an electric drill. Such sets are sold at any hardware store and have different diameters.

First, we make the necessary markings on the sheet - the location of the future hole - and outline the center. We select a bit according to size and secure it in the drill chuck. Place the drill in the center of the hole and begin drilling.

To get quality work, you should cut to average speed, taking your time, smoothly pressing the drill. If you apply too much pressure, the attachment will get stuck in the plaster.

Rectangular shapes

Often, when working with drywall, you have to cut rectangular holes in the sheet (for sockets, technical hatches). This is especially often necessary when making boxes that cover risers and pipes. A hacksaw is useful for this.

Please note that to work with sheets of drywall you need to use a metal blade. It has smaller teeth, so the work will be done faster and better.

Place the sheet on a support and make necessary measurements and along the marked line where it is necessary to cut the drywall, we make cuts with a hacksaw. We start work from any angle and then cut out the desired shape.

No matter how hard we try, it is not always possible to make the edges of drywall smooth. This defect affects not only the aesthetic appearance, but also the quality of the work performed. The parts do not fit tightly together, compromising the integrity of the structure.

For working with drywall, a roughing plane is useful. This professional tool Worth purchasing for anyone who works with this material. It is inexpensive and needed for high-quality processing cut edges. It is carried out according to GOST 21445-84.

They are quite simple to work with. It is necessary to place the sheet so that it is convenient to process its edge - with the end up, or you can lay it on its side. Place the plane on the cut of the sheet and run it along the entire length. You shouldn’t press the handle too hard, since with strong pressure the tool will go deeper into the drywall and you will have to remove a large cut or you will end up with an uneven end.

Movements should be as light as possible, in two or three passes. The surface of the plane must be frequently cleaned of plaster - turn the tool over and lightly tap the body with your palm.

Making a niche in the wall from plasterboard

Well-designed and high-quality installed niches in a plasterboard wall can replace furniture set. They are performed:

• in horizontal or vertical design;
• V floor-standing version, where it is possible to place a decorative fireplace, a vase of flowers, decorative details more than 1 m high;
• on the entire wall or just a small area;
• with and without backlight;
• closed or open.

This structural element can be different, its configuration depends on your imagination and wishes, and the design can be complemented by plastic or mirror material with decorative lamps.

In addition, a plasterboard niche is not only a decorative element, but also makes it possible to hide electrical wiring, utility lines, or remove items that others do not need to know about from prying eyes. Sometimes owners use this privilege so skillfully that they can easily go on vacation without worrying about their jewelry. Or they skillfully disguise technical systems life support at home.

Tools

In order to build a niche, you need to have the following tools for work.

Drawing

It is clear that not everyone has graduated from a construction university or has experience working with drawings. But any plasterboard structures that you plan to make with your own hands mean that they will be made strictly to size. This means you definitely need a drawing to scale. No need to master computer programs or call a draftsman from an architectural bureau. It is enough to sketch out the diagram by hand, indicate all the dimensions and design features. It is impossible to make a niche without a diagram. Let it be a simple drawing, but the size of the wall, the location of heating radiators, furniture, electrical outlets will be indicated here, if this is necessary for the planned project. With a correctly drawn up drawing, all cases of alteration of the structure are excluded.

Sketching thoughts on paper or “drawing”

Without effective lighting, the niche will give the impression of a dark hole. This means you need to create a special background around it (mirrors, glossy ceramics) or install lighting that will visually expand the space of the niche.

Consider your locations lighting fixtures. All this must be taken into account in the drawing and when calculating the volume of materials. Check the dimensions and depth of the niche. Be sure to consider the location of the furniture so that it does not block the opening.

When drawing up a drawing, be sure to take into account the thickness of the profile. After all, its dimensions are an integral part of the dimensions of the future structure in height and width.

If you plan to install household appliances in a niche, pay attention to the dimensions of the structure. Design the space of such a niche a little more sizes devices - for cooling equipment with air and access to communications.

Marking

It is carried out strictly according to size and using building level. We mark the middle on the wall with a pencil and from there we draw symmetrically the entire drawing with the length and width of the structure.

If you want to place a niche in the center of the wall, then strictly ensure that there is an equal distance along the edges. If the symmetry is broken, the niche will not fit into the interior of the room.

Having outlined the contours of the structure being built on the wall, you already know along which lines you need to mount the profile guides.

The most detailed markings should be provided. On the wall, indicate all the marks for attaching the metal profile frame.

At this stage, consider wiring electrical cables and installing sockets. If you are planning illuminated shelves, consider additional equipment.

Frame installation

Having cut the profiles to size, we begin to assemble the frame.

We check each installed profile with a level, because the slightest discrepancy will ruin the entire structure.

We fasten the guide profile with dowels along the perimeter of the drawing transferred to the wall, along the depth of our niche, on the floor and ceiling - 300-400 mm, strictly perpendicular to the wall. The pitch is 400-600 mm.

with self-tapping screws or a cutter. In the places of future shelves we install jumpers from the rack profile. Our DIY plasterboard niche should have wide shelves that can easily accommodate the additional and main equipment that we plan to place there. The frame is quite strong and the profile is reliable.

Drywall installation

Now you need to attach the sheets to the profile. We do this using self-tapping screws (35-45 mm) in increments of 250 mm. We recess the head of the fastener into the sheet by 1 mm. Less is not possible, because it will interfere with puttying, and more is also not recommended - the sheet may crack. edge plasterboard sheet should be flush with the profile, excess is removed.

The result was a niche made of plasterboard with lighting. Spending on beauty and comfort is always worth it, because they are a long-term investment Money. Therefore, we spare no expense. After covering the frame with plasterboard, puttying and priming, the surface is ready for further finishing work.

A multi-level plasterboard ceiling is modern solution, which will give the room style and make it interesting. This ceiling has its undeniable advantages. It hides all slab differences and irregularities, making the ceiling perfectly smooth. All communications can be hidden under the slabs, so there is no need to make grooves in the walls for electrical wiring and air-discharging elements of air conditioners. And if you place modern, light ones under the ceiling insulating materials, this will additionally insulate the room and improve sound insulation. This ceiling can be given the most sophisticated and elegant shapes. You can easily install a variety of lamps - spotlights and pendants.

Materials for work

Drywall is environmentally friendly and non-flammable material. Consists of a gypsum board covered with a layer of cardboard. Ceiling plasterboard 8 mm thick, quite flexible and lightweight, easy to cut with a construction knife. Install two-level ceiling Even beginners can do it with their own hands.

To work, you will need metal profiles onto which plasterboard slabs are attached. They come in two types - guide profiles and with stiffeners. You should also purchase special screws.

Choosing a form

The plasterboard construction will “eat” the height of the ceilings. The first level lowers the surface by 3-5 cm, and the second by 10 cm.

If the ceilings are relatively flat, then they can serve as the first level to which shaped plasterboard projections can be attached.

Smooth and rounded elements look very good on the ceiling, but strict geometric lines will also fit quite harmoniously, for example, a protruding threshold along the entire perimeter of the ceiling, which even a beginner can handle making. Drywall is quite easy to work with, so even a simple protrusion can be rounded in the corners, thereby making it more attractive. You can hide a cornice behind such a threshold, and then the illusion of curtains falling from the ceiling will be created. It is possible to hide electrical wiring and install a series of spotlights over certain areas or along the entire perimeter.

The desired shape of the ceiling is first born on paper, in the form of a sketch. On which, in addition to the geometric figure, you need to note the location of the vertical posts, at a distance of 30-40 cm. In rounded corners, the posts should be located more tightly. Afterwards the drawing is transferred to the ceiling.

Installation of the frame begins with more low level. The contours of the future ceiling are made from guide profiles. Rounded and smooth lines are obtained by cutting the profile at the bending points with metal scissors and bending it around the circumference. The guide profiles that define the shape are connected by uprights with stiffening ribs of such length that the second level of the ceiling should be lowered. It is better to immediately prepare all the rounded corners so that they are the same.

The frame is attached to the surface along a given contour using special “crab” plasterboard hangers, with which you can adjust the height. The hangers are placed at a distance of 40 cm. In the corners the structure is fixed rigidly; additional supports can be added. The frame must be measured with a level during installation. After attaching the main structure, which defines the contour of our future ceiling, rack profiles are installed at a distance of 60 cm, which are fastened with transverse jumpers, also observing a step of 60 cm.

Sometimes the crossbars are not secured so that they can be moved, adjusted to fit the drywall joints.

The suspensions are attached to the ceiling using two dowels with an 8*80 screw. The profiles are connected to each other with metal screws 3.5*11.

Installation of sheets

Once the frame is assembled and leveled, the cavities can be filled with insulating material, fiberglass, or foam sheets and electrical wiring installed. Then the ceiling is installed. The sheets should be pre-cut on the floor. It is convenient to immediately cut holes for spotlights. It is advisable to leave allowances of a few centimeters along the rounding line.

It is better to cut and remove excess on the spot than to get an unwanted gap between the slabs. To make it easier to bend drywall covering smooth and rounded elements during installation, the part can be trimmed with reverse side transverse slits and break the material along them. Some people recommend simply moistening the sheets a little beforehand for this purpose.

Let's start installing the slabs using self-tapping screws with fine threads, you can take sizes 3.5*25 and 3.5*32. The operation is best performed with a screwdriver. The self-tapping screw is screwed in, slightly recessing the head into the surface.

It is unacceptable for it to go through the sheet completely; if this happens, you need to step back a few centimeters and redo the fastening.

The fastening pitch is 15 cm. The sheet can be released by securing it with at least two self-tapping screws along each side. It is advisable to use whole sheets to get neat joints and cut less material. If two cut slabs fall on the joint, their edge from the front part needs to be cleaned off a little diagonally with a knife in order to perfectly align the seam with plaster in the future. After the main mass of the ceiling is fixed, they begin covering the threshold. First, the elements of the side part are attached and only then the lower plates.

When all the slabs are installed, the ceiling is primed with a universal primer. After complete drying, all seams are glued with serpyanka mounting tape, and all outer corners are secured and leveled with special corners. For straight lines use metal corners, and for smooth and rounded ones - a special flexible plastic corner. The technique for attaching it is simple: a layer of plaster is smeared on the corner of the structure, the corner is sunk into it, and the excess mortar protruding through the holes is removed with a spatula. After the second layer of plaster has dried, the corner is finally removed. You should also putty all the screw heads. Check first to see if there are any protrusions and tighten them manually.

Plaster all seams flush with the slab. After all the leveling elements of the plaster have dried, the entire surface of the ceiling is puttied, you can immediately use the finishing solution. The surfaces are allowed to dry and cleaned of unevenness and sagging plaster using a fine-grained construction sanding float. If the holes for spotlights were not previously made in the slabs, they can be cut with a special glass drill required diameter, electrical wiring wires are pulled into the holes.

At this stage they glue ceiling molding with special glue or plaster. After which the entire surface is primed, preparing for painting. Painting different ceiling levels in different colors, it is advisable to glue the joints with special paper adhesive tape, which will prevent paint smudges. First the ceiling is painted, and then the baguettes. After finishing the work, spotlights are installed, and pendant lights are installed using special dowels or plasterboard fasteners.

Video

This video will demonstrate the installation of a complex two-level ceiling.

If you need to build a wall, partition, arch or niche from plasterboard, then it is extremely important to know not only technical aspects installation, but also the characteristics of the material itself.

Peculiarities

Drywall sheet is lightweight and flexible material, with which you can quickly and easily transform an office, home or apartment. From this material you can either build a wall or build an ornate interior structure.

The structure of plasterboard sheet (GKL) fully corresponds to the name: its core is made of gypsum with mineral pigments, to which the surface layer of cardboard is attached using glue.

The advantages of the material are well known to professional finishers. They are as follows:

• allow you to create perfectly smooth surfaces vertically and horizontally;
• allow the construction of curved structures, as well as individual elements of various shapes and complexity;
• have good breathability, promote air circulation and maintain a healthy indoor microclimate;
• differ in sound insulation;
• characterized by high thermal insulation;
• made from environmentally friendly materials, do not cause allergies;
• fire-resistant, not prone to spontaneous combustion, do not support combustion and protect walls in case of fire;

• are light in weight;
• easy to install, do not require professional skills or special equipment for cladding;
• the price of gypsum board and its consumables is affordable;
• a coating made from this fiber is optimal for any type of finishing (painting, plastering, wallpapering);
• leave little waste.

The use of gypsum plasterboard can significantly reduce the time spent on finishing work; for example, a partition made of plasterboard can be built in a few hours, while the construction of a similar structure made of brick will require two or more days.

Like any building material, plasterboard has some disadvantages that significantly limit the scope of its use - the panels are not durable, they are destroyed by mechanical damage, and in addition, they absorb moisture.

And attaching anything to such a covering is quite problematic - only dowels and screws can hold a picture or a bulky shelf on it. But even in this case, it is undesirable to place anything heavy; this will cause the wall to collapse at any moment.

Types of structures

Using plasterboard, you can build structures that are diverse in appearance and functionality, namely:

• walls that divide the room;
• partitions of any shape;
• complex interior installations.

A plasterboard wall or partition has practical functionality or performs a purely decorative function. Using sheets, you can divide the space into zones, build niches, change the location and shape of the doorway, create a false wall, and achieve increased heat and sound insulation.

Partitions made from gypsum plasterboard are considered to be more appropriate than similar installations made from other materials: brick, wood and foam blocks. Partitions made from plasterboard fiber are produced in short time, their cost is much lower than options made of brick or wood. The false wall remains hollow inside, which makes it possible to lay the necessary utilities and provide additional insulation.

The material is light in weight and small in size, it is easy to cut, so installation can be carried out even by a person with minimal experience using the usual tools found in every home.

There are a great many options for gypsum plasterboard partitions. The following are distinguished:

• by profile type: regular and arched;
• By functional purpose: temporary or capital;
• by design type: solid or with an opening for a door or window;
• by type of installation: sliding or stationary.

In addition, partitions and interior walls from gypsum boards differ in thickness and some other criteria.

Decorative plasterboard partitions, as a rule, are installed in order to hide flaws in the room and cover heating radiators. They do not require serious fasteners, and are often complemented with stylish elements: lighting, mosaics, inserts from other types of materials. Usually the same elements are fixed with glue or installed on a frame. Models that have a practical purpose are mounted during internal repair work. They modify general form premises, contribute to its division into different zones and add additional functionality to finishing elements. Such walls and partitions are installed using a frame method and are attached to all walls in the room.

Regardless of the type of partitions, each has the same structure, namely:

• the frame is made of wood or metal profiles;
• cladding made from gypsum plasterboard sheets is used for walls or partitions;
• The wall filling is glass wool or mineral wool, which contributes to additional noise and heat insulation.

Depending on the technical characteristics There are several types of drywall:

• Wall gypsum board It is characterized by a thickness of 12.5 mm, a width of 1.2 m, and the length of the sheet can be 2.3 or 2.5 m. It does not contain any additives and is used for the installation of walls and partitions.
• Ceiling gypsum board has a thickness of 9.5 mm, width is 1.2 m, length - 2 or 2.5 m. This lightweight modification is widely used in the construction of niches and door arches, as well as in ceiling cladding. It differs from the first option only in thickness.

• GKLV– This is a moisture-resistant material. Its thickness is the same as that of wall option, the width is also standard (1.2 m), and the length can be 2 or 2.3 m. A distinctive feature of the material is the introduction of moisture-resistant pigments and antifungal impregnations into the structure. Thanks to them, the material becomes hygroscopic, resists moisture and is used in rooms with high humidity (bathrooms and showers).
• GKLO- This is a sheet of plasterboard with fire-resistant parameters. It has standard parameters: thickness 12.5 mm, width 1.2 m, length 2.3 or 2.5 meters. The core of this type of fiber contains active components that are resistant to high temperatures and combustion, all this is enhanced by special fire-prevention impregnations. The material is widely used in areas where high demands are placed. fire safety, as well as for lining fireplaces and chimneys.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that the cardboard covering of all types of gypsum boards is fire resistant. This material does not burn, and at most only chars. But the core resists flame only in GKLO.

• GKLVO is a moisture- and fire-resistant material that combines all the advantages of gypsum boards and gypsum boards.
• Arched gypsum board used to create exquisite wave-like designs and rounded interior elements. Its width complies with the standards of 1.2 m, the length is presented in one version - 3 m. But the thickness of the sheet is small - only 6.5 mm. The small thickness, as well as the introduction of fiberglass threads into the composition, results in increased flexibility and ductility of the material. Such sheets have a fairly high price, and the fact that they have to be mounted in several layers makes finishing work more expensive.

Design

Drywall has found application in covering surfaces and creating decorative elements indoors.

Ceiling

Today, plasterboard is one of the most popular materials for cladding ceilings and constructing multi-level suspended structures. Drywall is necessary for design in the following situations:

• when the ceiling is uneven;
• if necessary, hide utility lines laid on top - pipes, massive ventilation ducts, unsightly cables and others;
• for the implementation of original interior solutions.

Ceiling finishing using gypsum plasterboard can be carried out in rooms of any type and purpose.

Walls

Almost any interior finishing work involves the installation of drywall. It is used to create a perfectly even coating, arranging all kinds of niches and shelves, as well as constructing other elements designer design. In addition to its decorative function, gypsum boards also have a practical purpose - creates enhanced sound absorption and room insulation. Gypsum fiber sheets are mounted directly on the wall using glue or pre-installed assembled frame As a rule, sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm are used for this. Sometimes, to ensure greater structural strength, gypsum boards are laid in two or three layers.

Plasterboard lining is carried out in any room; it is most effective for cold walls facing the street, which freeze in the winter.

A plasterboard wall with thermal insulation helps to insulate the room, preventing the accumulation of dangerous condensation and the appearance of fungus. Finishing plasterboard wall could be anyone.

Floor

Drywall can also be used to finish the floor using the dry method. Of course, for this purpose, exclusively especially durable sheets with increased abrasion resistance and resistance to mechanical damage are used. This coating is applied in two layers, then covered with any standard topcoat - parquet, linoleum, carpet, tile or laminate. The advantages of this method are obvious - the high speed of work and its cost-effectiveness.

In design, gypsum boards are often used to construct multi-level compositions, for example, podiums and ledges, which effectively mask unaesthetic pipes and other communications.

Partitions

When creating partitions, plasterboard is the number 1 material. It is most often used to divide a room and create a stylish and functional zoning space. Some structures can be built on the basis of a metal profile frame, which is fixed to the walls and ceiling, and then sheathed directly with gypsum fiber plates.

Built-in niches

Shelves with drawers look very impressive in the interior. plasterboard structures, and in houses with small children they are simply irreplaceable, because the baby will not be able to hit the sharp edges of the hanging elements. Niches are used to place small decorative elements in them that make the room cozy. These could be photographs, small souvenirs or books. The shape of such niches can be very different. As a rule, they are equipped with lighting, which makes the interior unusual and spectacular.

Tip: when installing niches, special attention should be paid to the weight of the products that are stored in the niche. Drywall can only support lightweight objects.

Frame

Most often, work on covering the surface with plasterboard is carried out using a frame method; for this purpose, wooden or metal sheathing is installed. It is very important to apply the correct markings, since the strength and evenness of the future false wall largely depends on the accuracy of the calculations.

To do this, first mark the place on the floor where the mounting of the supporting panel will begin, the resulting indicator is projected onto the ceiling - this is the length of the frame. The distance between the wall and the marking is its width. Markings for rack-mount metal profiles are applied perpendicular to the floor on a nearby wall. The markings are presented in the form of vertical lines with a pitch of 50–60 cm; in the future, when attaching drywall to the plank, the edges of the sheet will be located along them.

When facing walls, it is important to remember that one wall is finished first, starting with the installation of guides and ending with the installation of gypsum boards, and only then does the transition to the next surface take place.

The work is carried out in several stages, namely:

• the marks on the floor and walls need to be connected, and then guides are mounted along them;
• the installation of hangers is carried out at a distance of 60–70 cm, their center must certainly be located along the line;
• Rack-mount metal profiles are fixed into the guides so that their middle groove coincides with the upper and lower marks, and then they are connected to each other;
• The building level controls the verticality of the base and shelves, after which you need to make the final fixation with self-tapping screws.

Application area

Drywall is used for various options performances such as:

• ceiling finishing;
• installation of partitions;
• giving the walls perfect evenness;
• construction of interior compositions of various arches, shelves, plinths;
• masking unaesthetic and damaged surfaces;
• repair of old coatings;
• giving surfaces relief;
• creating multi-level structures;
• insulation, soundproofing of cavities and openings.

Drywall with increased moisture resistance is usually used for finishing bathrooms and kitchens. Fire-resistant modifications are widespread when lining communication shafts and air ducts, when telephone and Internet cables, plumbing systems and heating pipes, as well as ventilation devices are required inside. Drywall is used in both wooden and brick houses.

Drywall installation

The installation technology is quite simple. First, the sheet is cut. To do this, use a regular construction knife with a spare block of replaceable blades. The sequence of actions is described by instructions according to which the following actions must be performed:

• the sheet is laid on a clean, flat surface;
• markings are applied with a pencil;
• using a knife, cut cardboard with outside;

• The gypsum board is installed on the edge of the support, the sheet is carefully broken along the cut line;
• the plasterboard panel is returned to its original position, placed on its edge and bent;
• the cardboard from the inside is also cut through, but the blade should not pass through;
• the sheet turns over inner side, is again placed on the support and finally breaks.

After the sheet has been prepared, you should begin directly assembling the installation with your own hands in accordance with the step-by-step instructions.

You need to do the following:

• Guides are attached along the lines drawn on the ceiling and floor; self-tapping screws are used for this;
• a sealing tape is placed under the fixed profile;
• Planks are mounted to the profile along vertical markers, all work starts from the corners and leads to the center;
• The stiffening ribs are fixed to self-tapping screws;

• then communications, wires and cables are carried into the cavity, and they are also filled with mineral wool;
• a sheet of drywall is attached directly to the frame;

• the edges of the sheets are covered with putty or a reinforcing mesh is applied, then sanded;
• A primer is applied over the panels and the finishing is carried out.

It is worth paying attention to the following points when installing gypsum boards:

• the sheet is attached to metal profiles using 3.5x35 mm self-tapping screws;
• First of all, the edges of the panel are attached, and then central part. Self-tapping screws are placed in increments of 10–25 cm;
• the self-tapping screw is screwed in so that the caps slightly “sink” into the drywall; under no circumstances should they stick out above the surface;
• If possible, before starting cladding, you should watch a master class on how to install drywall.

Drywall is a very popular material, so it is widely available in construction stores. At the same time, it absorbs moisture well, so if it is stored improperly in a warehouse, its consumer parameters can be significantly damaged. To avoid problems and purchase the highest quality product, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

• try to purchase the product only in large stores that have established themselves as a reliable and stable seller, avoid dubious points of sale;
• evaluate the conditions in which the plasterboard was stored, the cleanliness of the room and the level of humidity in it;

• Personally inspect each purchased sheet of plasterboard; there should be no chips or deformations on it. On the product of proper quality No crooked bends, dents or scratches are allowed. Any violation of integrity will entail the breaking of the entire sheet in the damaged area;
• You need to carefully monitor loading and unloading operations. Even if a sheet of drywall was purchased in perfect condition, this does not guarantee that it will arrive in the same condition. If the product was purchased and paid for, but defects were discovered later, then the warranty will not apply to it;
• If possible, you should not purchase the entire batch with the required quantity at once. To start, you should buy one sheet to test it. For example, you can cut a sheet into strips; a high-quality sheet should have a strictly uniform core, a cut without inclusions, and the knife should move evenly and smoothly when cutting;
• If you decide to buy a product from a dubious supplier, but at a very attractive price, then it is worth remembering that the stingy always pays twice. Handicraft products can not only crumble and break, but also be unsafe for health.

To protect yourself from counterfeits and defects, you should give preference to products from well-known brands.

About 70% of the Russian construction market is occupied by products of the German concern Knauf. This giant has production facilities all over the world. In Russia alone there are about 10 production plants building materials. The Knauf company is associated by many with high quality, reliability and practicality. About 10% of the market is accounted for by other European brands – Lafarge, Gyproc, Rigips.

Gyproc is a Scandinavian brand that has successfully established itself as one of the leaders in the global plasterboard market. In terms of production volumes in 2002, it took first place, leaving all its main competitors far behind. Distinctive feature GCR of this brand is highly environmentally safe, confirmed by the “Leaf of Life” and “Ecomaterial” certificates. In addition, Gyproc has released drywall that is 20% lighter than products from other manufacturers. However, its price is slightly higher than the cost of Knauf products.

Lafarge is a Polish manufacturer that has established production of drywall throughout the world. Even Knauf is inferior to this concern in terms of quantity production workshops. This allows you to reduce the cost of production, which is why Lafarge plasterboard has a fairly affordable price. It was this company that, at the beginning of this century, made a real revolution in the production of drywall, bringing to the market semicircular sheets, all edges of which were covered with cardboard. This processing of panels has become a kind of calling card of the company.

About 20% of the market belongs to domestic companies. From the leading Russian manufacturers the following can be distinguished:

• "Gypsum" (Volgograd)– produces drywall under the famous Volma brand. The products of this brand are distinguished by excellent performance characteristics and reasonable prices.
• Gifas (Sverdlovsk)– produces products of exceptionally high quality, which in terms of performance parameters are not inferior even to popular European brands.

• Abdullingips (Kazan)– has established the production of conventional gypsum boards and gypsum boards, which are distinguished by their low price compared to other Russian analogues.
• "Golden Group Gips" (Tolyatti)– produces sheets of plasterboard using equipment from the French concern Lafarge. The products are distinguished by exceptional quality and competitive prices.