Electric floors. DIY electric heated floor

Man's desire to create for himself comfortable conditions for living led to the development various systems heating Among them, structures built into the floor and powered by electricity have recently become increasingly popular.

Types of electric heated floors

Manufacturers produce various modifications, which can be roughly grouped according to the type of heating element:

1. cable heating;

2. heating mats;

3. film infrared emitter;

4. liquid-electric structures.

Physical principles underlying the operation of electric heated floors

Cable heating with resistive conductors

When transmitting electricity based on the Joule-Lenz law, heat is released. This pattern is the basis of the work heating elements.

If in ordinary wires metals and their cross-section are selected in order to reduce heat losses at maximum load, then in a heated floor system, structures are created that are capable of releasing the maximum amount of thermal energy long time without compromising performance characteristics.

For this purpose, heating elements are created in the form of cable structures consisting of:

    resistive type conductive thread that generates heat;

    a layer of Teflon insulation made of heat-resistant PVC plastic.

Such cables can be manufactured with one internal conductor or two. They are used for different ways installation and connection. Manufacturers give them a guarantee of 20 years or more, subject to operating rules.

The two-core cable has an additional layer of insulation located between a thin screen braid copper wire and dielectric heat-resistant coating of the cores. One of the cores has the function of a heating element, and the second, as a simple conductor, is placed parallel to the first. This arrangement significantly reduces the radiation level electromagnetic field and its effect on the environment.

A typical resistive cable design is shown in the picture.

When operating these structures, a balance of heat generated from passing through the conductors must be maintained. electric current and discharging it into the heated floor. To do this, all areas of the floor adjacent to the cable are created with a homogeneous structure, ensuring uniform thermal and mechanical loads.

The resistive cable is filled with a cement-sand screed of a certain thickness, which can be additionally covered with a layer of ceramic tiles, laminate or other floor materials.

Cables with self-regulating heating conductors

Self-regulating designs can be used in a heated floor system. heating cable. They have ordinary conductive, rather than heating, cores, between which there is a semiconductor matrix with a huge number of elements independent from each other. Its dielectric properties are determined precisely by these semiconductors, which respond to changes in the temperature surrounding them.

When some section of the self-regulating cable is cooled, a structure with a large number of tracks is created inside the matrix due to semiconductors for the passage of current through them, which heats the cable and the surrounding layers.

At average temperatures, the structure of semiconductors increases electrical resistance, reducing the conditions for current flow through them and, thereby, somewhat reducing the heat generation.

If some section of the cable is very hot, then the number of paths for the passage of current in it is sharply limited, reducing its electrical conductivity.

In this way, the ambient heating temperature is regulated even without a thermostat and temperature sensors. Self-regulating cables are more convenient to use because they do not need to create a homogeneous structure for heat transfer, like their resistive counterparts. Their individual sections can be subjected to different temperature loads.

Cable mats

At first, when installing a heated floor, resistive cables were simply laid out on the floor in the form of a snake, and then fixed with fasteners. This technology is still used for single-core and double-core structures.

However, manufacturers began to produce cable mats. An example of such a design is shown in the picture, where the cable itself is already woven into a soft dielectric mesh in a certain way. It no longer needs to be carefully laid out. It is enough to simply roll out the folded roll along the length of the room for subsequent fixation with a solution.

Cold leads for connecting the cable mat to the electrical circuit are included in the delivery package. They are connected through special coupling adapters. Direct connection is prohibited by the installation technology.

If there is a need to rotate the direction of the layout, then the fastening mesh can be easily cut with ordinary scissors without touching the cable, which then simply turns in the desired direction at any angle.

This method makes it easier to lay out the mat in an even layer in any room. In this case, it is easier to avoid overlapping individual cable sections with each other.

Film infrared floor heating

This technology is based on the use of heat emanating from thin heating elements through which an electric current is passed.

They are made with carbon strips located between two layers of a special film. Carbon fiber (carbon fiber) is applied using nano-spraying methods with a layer thickness measured to one micron, and is insulated on both sides with a thin but very durable polymer film with high dielectric properties.

Carbon strips are connected to copper bars, which serve as conductors for supplying voltage.

Heating carried out by infrared rays from a heated floor is, by its nature, no different from natural heating by the light of the sun. Only the floor temperature is brought to 30÷35 degrees and directed from bottom to top.

Fluid-electric designs

Electric-water heated floor developments combine electric heating threads with subsequent heat transfer through a coolant - water, located in a sealed tube made of plastic with high-strength mechanical characteristics.

The entire structure is assembled in the form of a seven-core cable using chromium-nickel alloys for filaments and a sheath coated with silicone and Teflon.

The silicone layer can withstand temperatures up to 280 degrees, having high dielectric properties. The Teflon coating prevents water penetration and is highly resistant to chemicals.

The liquid filling the cable successfully withstands even twenty-degree frost without freezing, but it quickly boils when electric current passes through the threads. When it boils, heat is transferred faster environment. This provides .

The transfer of heat from the heating filaments into the boiling liquid and further into the warm floor environment protects the chromium-nickel alloy from overheating, protects it from burnout, and allows it to be used for a long time.

Since when a liquid boils inside a sealed shell, increased gas pressure is created, a special absorption system is used to reduce it, reducing this effect and ensuring safe operation.

Tubular cable housings made of structured mesh polyethylene have:

    resistance to cooling at low temperatures;

    resistance to cracking;

    high impact strength.

Design and composition of electric heated floors

The room that will be heated must be protected from constant drafts and heat leaks. For this purpose, all heating elements are mounted only on a layer of thermal insulation, which prevents energy loss from heating the floor slabs and escaping into the atmosphere.

A heating cable, made according to one of the listed schemes, is located on a heat-insulating layer and secured with mounting tape. Inside its snake, at the same distance between the turns, a corrugated tube is laid out with a temperature sensor placed in it, which will control the degree of heating of the floor.

This tube is sealed at one end. It is designed not only to accommodate the temperature sensor, but also to allow it to be conveniently replaced in case of breakdown.

All laid heating elements together with this tube will be filled with cement-sand screed. Its thickness depends on the cable design and must be carefully applied in an even layer. Voids are not allowed. Stick on top ceramic tile or another floor covering is installed.

At a convenient height for working on the wall of the room there is located, which controls the operation of the heated floor automatically. When connecting it, you will need to connect wires from:

    power cable; electrical panel;

    heating elements;

    temperature sensor.

To perform hidden wiring, it is necessary to provide cable channels or carry out gating of walls.

Connection diagrams for underfloor heating elements to electrical wiring

It is important to remember that the installation and assembly of the circuit must be completed by checking the operation of electrical equipment under voltage before filling the heating cables with a fixing solution. At this stage it is easier to troubleshoot any problems that have arisen.

Restarting the work will be carried out after the solution has completely hardened in a month. Previously, the screed will not harden and the cable will be damaged.

An example of connecting a heated floor, which includes two sets of heating cables and one thermostat with a sensor, is shown in the picture.

In the electrical panel from circuit breaker RCD is connected. It protects the entire circuit from possible leakage currents through electrical equipment housings that are connected.

The temperature sensor is connected by a cable to a temperature regulator, which is connected to the power circuits via an RCD and, at the same time, controls the operation of the contactor through a separate cable. Contactor output circuits using distribution box connected to heating elements.

Including a contactor in the circuit allows you to simultaneously control the operation of several heating sections and reduce the load on the electrical circuits of the thermostat.

The simplest thermostats of a mechanical or electrical type allow you to set only the temperature limits for regulating the heating of the floor covering.

More sophisticated electronically controlled models have the ability to use a time-based weekly schedule to operate the heaters at user-defined times of day. Due to this, electricity consumption for floor heating is reduced when the owners are absent from the apartment.

Choosing a floor covering

    a natural stone;

    ceramic tiles;

    porcelain stoneware

They best transfer heat into the room through themselves. The use of wood, parquet, laminate and other materials is also allowed. However, they have poorer heat transfer and can reduce the heating effect.

Coating deformation

Heating elements create temperature changes at which the floor covering slightly changes its size. To avoid its deformation, small gaps should be created for the laminate elements. You cannot press it tightly against the walls and attach it to the baseboard. At thermal effects the floor should expand freely and remain completely level.

Floor insulation

The choice of material for it allows for rational use of electricity, since it affects heat losses. In order to create comfortable heating, foil insulation consisting of foamed polymer materials with a layer thickness from 3 to 10 mm. Its use saves electricity from 10 to 20%.

Usage durum varieties expanded polystyrene with a layer thickness of 3 cm and foil coated with polymer can reduce losses by up to 30%.

Electricity consumption

The operating efficiency of any electrical structure is determined by the amount of electricity spent on it. In order for the underfloor heating system to satisfy your needs, define tasks for it, which can be:

    constant heating of the room;

    floor heating only in the morning and evening, when the owner is at home;

    maintaining a stabilized temperature during the daytime for a comfortable stay on the floor for small children;

    any other conditions.

Determine the area of ​​the room and calculate the approximate energy costs for 1 hour of operation or a day, a week, a month. To do this, you can use average operating data of a resistive heating cable to create comfortable conditions:

    in dry rooms 120 W per 1 m2 is consumed;

    in damp rooms— 140 W per 1m2.

For example, a room 2 by 3 meters will consume 2x3x0.12=0.72 kW in one hour of operation of the heated floor. With continuous operation for 10 hours, the electricity consumption will be 7.2 kW.

The electricity consumption of film infrared floors and water-electric floors is slightly more economical.

Maintainability

Although manufacturers guarantee the operation of heated floors for a long time, it is best to foresee the occurrence of breakdowns of individual parts and eliminate them by replacing them at the project stage. To do this, the method of connecting a temperature sensor with a thermostat should prevent the opening of a dried cement-sand floor screed when the need arises for their repair.

Replacing the film on an infrared floor should not create unsolvable issues with difficult disassembly of the floor covering.

For liquid-electric modules, replacement of the liquid and heating element can be done through a special mounting box. It is mounted on the finishing floor screed line. And if the integrity of the pipe is damaged, a small volume of leaked liquid will indicate the location of the damage. It is simply cut out after opening. Then apply the couplings and connect the double-sided fitting.

Electric heated floors are popular due to their ease of installation and durability. It also does not require any additional communications other than electricity, so it is successfully used in private construction. It is not difficult to make an electric heated floor; its installation does not require special knowledge and takes a little time. Let's look at the main steps and important nuances things you need to know when installing heated floors.

Electric heated floors are successfully used in absolutely any type of premises. These can be apartment or private houses, garages, bathhouses or loggias. It is only important to correctly select the power of the system and ensure sufficient thermal insulation. This method can be used as the only source of heating the room. But energy costs can add up significantly.

Types of electric heated floors (ETF)

All options for organizing such systems are divided into three groups.

  1. ETP based on heating wire. The entire system consists of a thermostat, a temperature sensor and a long double-insulated wire that produces heating. This is the cheapest, but also the most labor-intensive option. The wire needs to be laid out base floor and secure it in a special mounting tape. It is important to maintain the same distance between the turns of the wire and to avoid kinks and overlaps of the wire.
  2. ETP based on heating mats. This option is more convenient to install, since the wire is factory laid in special reinforcing mats and rigidly fixed to them. You don't need to worry about laying out the wire, just lay out the mats of the required power on the base and connect them. This saves significant time and reduces the risk of error.
  3. ETP based on infrared film. This option is fundamentally different from the previous two. Heating occurs due to infrared healing of the carbon material deposited on the film base. This option is not required cement screed, the topcoat can be laid directly on top of the film. However, this is the least reliable and uneconomical option for ETP.

Comparative characteristics of cable and film heated floors

SignsFilm heatingCable heating
Utility roomNo needNo need
Floor thickness with screed5-10 mm50-100 mm
Installation time1 day1 day
Ready for useStraightaway28 days
Installation optionsFloor, ceiling, walls, any surfacesFloor. Installation on other surfaces is possible, but difficult
ReliabilityIf even a significant part of the system is damaged, undamaged segments continue to operateIf the cable is damaged in any way, it completely fails.
Repair costsMinimumHighs, 100%
ServiceNot requiredNot required
Freezing in winterAbsentAbsent
Health effectsPositive healingNeutral subject to high-quality two-core cable
Heat distribution and impact on coatingsUniform heatingUneven temperature distribution, there are zones of increased temperature
ZoningPossibility of organizing separate spot zones
ExpensesRelatively low initially. Energy savingRelatively low initial, operational - according to the meter

Operating principle of ETP

In the case of heating wire and mats, the conductor is heated under the influence of the electric current flowing in it. The wire heats the screed, which in turn heats the finish coating. Heating occurs by convection.

In the case of using infrared film, heating occurs by thermal radiation of the carbon layer, which occurs under the influence of electric current. This radiation heats the finish coating and objects located close enough to the floor. They heat the air in the room by convection.

Temperature regulation is carried out using a temperature sensor and a thermostat through which the heated floor is connected.

How to choose the required power of a heated floor

Before calculating the power, you need to know whether the room will be heated only with the help of an EHP or whether it will complement the main heating system, creating additional comfort. Each ETP manufacturer indicates in the technical data sheet of its product what power must be selected in each case.

For most rooms, a value of 120-140 W/m2 is selected as a comfortable ETP based on a heating wire or heating mat. If the ETP is made on the basis of infrared film, then comfortable value is 150 W/m2.

If the room will be heated only by ETP, then the value 160-180 W/m2 is selected for the heating wire or mat, and for infrared film the power should be 220 W/m2.

If you are using a heating mat or infrared film, then the power square meter is known in advance and you just need to choose suitable option. If a heating cable is used, the power will depend on the distance between its turns. You need to know in advance the area and shape of the heating surface, after which you will determine the required distance using the tables in the technical data sheet or instructions. Usually it is 10-30 cm depending on the power of the cable.

It is important to take into account the maximum possible load on the building's electrical network, and also to use switching equipment designed for the appropriate load current.

What consequences can result from errors during the installation of ETP?

A common mistake is laying ETP under massive furniture and household appliances. Insufficient cooling of the floor surface can cause the wire to overheat and fail.

Never turn on heating wires or mats until the screed is completely dry. Even short-term activation can damage the heater. Checking the integrity of the laid cable and correct connection is only possible by measuring the resistance. This does not apply to infrared film flooring; it can and should be connected to the network for testing.

Do not bend the wire, do not step on it, and avoid pulling on the wire. All this can lead to damage to the conductor or insulation and breakdown of the entire system. Also avoid damaging the heating film if you are installing an infrared ETP.

Do not forget to monitor the insulation resistance at all stages of work, especially before pouring the screed. The value should not differ from that declared by the manufacturer by more than 10%. If you see a large discrepancy in the values, stop work and locate the area of ​​damaged insulation. If this rule is neglected, then after the screed has dried, a very unpleasant surprise may await you in the form of a non-working ETP.

Do not pour the temperature sensor directly into the screed. Place it in the corrugation, which will be filled with screed. Sensors often fail and if you pour it into the screed, replacing it will require considerable effort.

When installing an infrared ETP, do not forget to insulate the current-carrying parts at the places where the film is cut. Otherwise, the protective equipment will constantly detect the leakage current and turn off the power to your ETP.

Advantages and disadvantages of ETP

The advantages of ETP are:

  • ease of installation of the structure. This is especially true for heating mats and infrared film. They simply need to be laid out on the base and connected according to the instructions; this does not require any special knowledge;
  • high reliability and durability. Provided the insulation is intact, the heating wire or mats embedded in the screed have an almost unlimited service life;
  • high autonomy. ETP does not require connecting the house to the water supply and even works from an electric generator. This allows it to be used in village houses and dachas.

The disadvantages of this heating method include:

  • relatively high cost of heating a room. EHP consumes quite a lot of power, especially if it is the only heating method;
  • Due to the relatively low temperature of the floor surface, the air in the room warms up rather slowly. This is relevant if the EHP is the only source of heat and does not operate constantly. For example, in country house in winter;
  • Since heating elements are prohibited from being placed under massive furniture, global rearrangement of the furniture will not be possible after the work is completed.

Step-by-step instructions for installing ETP

Preparing the base

ETP flooring must be laid on a clean, dry base. It is necessary to cut a groove in the wall for the temperature regulator and wires. Carefully sweep away any accumulated debris.

After this, you need to put a layer of thermal insulation on the base, for example, penofol or expanded polystyrene. If there is a heated room on the floor below, then it will be enough to lay a layer of penofol 5 mm thick. If there is an unheated room or ground under the heated floor, then it is necessary to use polystyrene foam with a thickness of 20 mm to 50 mm, depending on the severity of winters in your area. Thermal insulation is fixed using any adhesive material.

Laying heating elements

Before installation, mark the floor. It is important to highlight those areas that should not warm up. It is important to remember that a distance of 0.5 m must be maintained from walls and large furniture, and a distance of at least 0.3 m from heating appliances, stoves and fireplaces.

If you are installing a heated floor based on a heating wire, then first you need to install the mounting tape. It will fix the turns of the wire and prevent them from moving. Lay the tape over the thermal insulation and secure with dowels.

Attaching the mounting tape

Carefully unwind the heating wire and lay it on top of the thermal insulation and mounting tape, strictly observing the parallelism of the turns and the spaces between them. Secure each turn using fixing tendrils on the mounting tape. The turns of the wire should not overlap under any circumstances. After installation, measure the insulation resistance; it should not differ from the standard by more than 10%.

If you are using infrared film, carefully unwind it along the base, then connect the sheets of film together in parallel. Connect the wires to the location where the thermostat is installed.

Installing a Temperature Sensor

If you are installing an ETP based on a heating wire or mat, then the temperature sensor should be located in a corrugated tube. Make a small depression in the thermal insulation layer and place a tube with a diameter of 20 mm in it. Plug one end of the tube tightly with insulation, and bring the other end above the floor level in the same place where the wires will come out.

Place the temperature sensor at the end of the tube and make sure it can be easily pulled back out. This is important for the possibility of replacing the sensor after the floor has been screeded.

If you are using an infrared ETP, you can check it by turning it on, the floor should be warm to the touch.

Filling a heated floor with screed

If you use an infrared ETP, then filling is not required, you can immediately begin installing the finishing coating.

If you use a heating wire or mat, then filling the screed is strictly necessary. It is necessary to fill the cement to a thickness of 30-50 mm. After the screed has hardened, you can begin installing the finishing coating, for example, tiles, laminate or linoleum. The first switching on of the heated floor can be carried out only after the screed has completely dried. Most manufacturers set a complete drying period of 28 days. This ensures that there are no voids around the wire, which will eventually cause the wire to burn out.

Video - Installation of heating mats

Video - Warm floor under tiles

Video - Installation of Electrolux heated floor, cable

Video - Installation of film heated floors

How to properly install a heated floor? Most often, do-it-yourself electric heated floors are installed inside bathroom to heat ceramic tiles in a short period of time.

In addition, this design is used to heat a veranda, bathhouse or sauna, and so on. Electric underfloor heating can also be a complement to radiator heating. Electricity will be saved. To do this, you will need a regulator for the heated floor and a temperature sensor for the heated floor.

This design can be used not only in ordinary houses, but also inside apartments, because it is impossible to install the most efficient water heating in them. Ease of installation and complete availability on the construction market make it possible to carry out all the work yourself. An electric heated floor is installed under laminate, linoleum, and marble. But not all electric floors are installed under laminate.

How to choose electric heated floors? Which heated floor is better? How to properly connect a heated floor? How to connect a heated floor to a thermostat? Where to install and connect the sensor for a heated floor? Let's answer.

What are heated electric floors? This is a wired heating system with increased durability. This electric floor heating system can simply perform a comfort function and become the main heating system. The heating sections consist of two layers of insulation, single- and double-core cables and durable connection devices (couplings).

Electric underfloor heating has a number of advantages that distinguish it from other heating systems. Let's look at them:

  • Part of the heating system is hidden in the design of the floor itself. This makes it possible to make the usable space larger. It also helps make the design of the room more varied. Floor covering may vary. It just cannot be used as a floor covering.
  • The air inside the room is not dried out because this heating system is not in direct contact with the atmosphere.
  • Due to the fact that the structure has double insulation and the wires have a shielding braid, this makes it possible to use an electric floor in absolutely any place, regardless of the level of humidity.

These are the main advantages of electric heated floors.

Methods for installing underfloor heating

How to make an electric heated floor? How to lay heated floors? What are the methods?

There are three main methods for installing this structure:

  • The first method involves installing electric floors into a screed layer. After this procedure, the floor covering is installed.
  • How to put with next method? The second method is to install the electric floor from the top of the screed under the ceramic tiles.
  • The latter method involves laying the flooring material under it.

The first method is most suitable for the bathroom, kitchen and loggia (balcony) to connect the electric floor. This is the installation of a cable floor. And under the system, moisture-proofing and insulating layers are laid. It is necessary to form a layer of screed from the top.

Let's say you live in an apartment building, if the apartment located on the floor below you is already insulated, then there is no need to mount and install an additional thermal insulation layer. In this case, ceramic will be the main protection for the heating elements.

If you need to install an electric floor yourself, running it under laminate or linoleum, then the best option in this situation is an infrared floor. In addition, a heat insulator is installed. The insulation is foamed polyethylene, which has a foil coating. Then there are the electrical components. If necessary, a waterproofing layer is laid, and then the floor laminate itself.

It is prohibited to use an infrared electric floor under ceramic tiles, just as it is prohibited to install it into the screed itself.

Required components and materials for the process

What does it take to connect a floor to electricity? To complete the job efficiently you will need the following:

  • Heating cable. It can go together with the grid.
  • Wires intended for connection.
  • Fastening products.
  • The device is a regulator (thermostat) for a heated floor and heated floor temperature sensors. The installed device is intended to further regulate the temperature.
  • Residual current devices (RCDs).
  • A copper cable intended for grounding.
  • Heated floor temperature sensor.

How to carry out calculations and distribution of these elements and materials. Let's take a closer look.

Distribution of heating elements

At the very beginning, you need to create a plan for installing the electric floor. It must be taken into account that the heating wire is not installed in areas where furniture is located big size or other items. In areas where heating pipes or other sources of heat are located, it is also necessary to eliminate heating elements. It may happen that your furniture may simply become damaged due to overheating.

By following these rules, you will get a drawing that shows an irregular figure - it shows the space that allows the installation of an electric floor. Once installed, furniture cannot be rearranged.

When the plan has already been drawn up, you can immediately proceed to work.

On a section of the wall, wherever you like, a position is determined indicating the location of the regulator. Next, a hole is made in this area for the floor heating regulator, after which the fine is lowered all the way to the floor. After completion of the preparation work, it is necessary to carry out calculations of materials.

Carrying out calculations

How to calculate a heated floor? How is the power of underfloor heating calculated? Calculation of electric heated floors can be carried out using already prepared tables offered by the manufacturer. The calculation of the power of the heated floor is the same. And according to calculations of heat loss in each room, it is selected the right step wire installation. It also calculates its length.

If you plan to install an infrared floor under a laminate laid by yourself, then the calculations in this case become even easier. You just need to select the required number of components that can cover the expected area.

Don’t forget to include in your calculations the cable that will be used to connect the thermostat to the heated floor. A connection diagram for the heated floor thermostat is also drawn up, which should reflect this procedure. Then the heated floor is connected to electricity.

This is what the thermostat circuit looks like, connection diagram

It is prohibited to connect a laminated floor to an electrical outlet.

Surface preparation. Distinctive features of base thermal insulation.

At the very beginning, if necessary, destroy the screed that is already outdated. The entire coating must be thoroughly cleaned.

Now you need to prepare the groove for the temperature sensor. Afterwards, the heated floor sensor is installed.

We lay a layer of moisture insulation extending onto the wall. The length of the approach should be ten centimeters. A polyethylene foam film (damper tape) must be attached to the wall over the entire area. This element is necessary to compensate for thermal expansion during heating. Thanks to this, trim the waterproofing layer and foam polyethylene tape (damper).

To thermal energy does not disappear into the lower part, the base of the floor should be insulated. How to choose a heated floor? Which electric floor heating is better? The location of the room, the type of surface and the direction of the heating design influence the required insulation.

Thermal insulation for heated floors:

  • If you need to lay a heated floor as an addition to an existing heating system, then you should use a damper tape that has a reflective foil coating. This material represents a substrate for an electric floor.
  • In an apartment under which there is another heated room, it is necessary to use sheets made of gas-filled material (expanded polystyrene). The average thickness of such a sheet is 30 millimeters. As a replacement, you can use another element, which is the same durable heat insulator.
  • If the installation of an electric heated floor takes place on the veranda and in the loggia, where there has never been heating before, a thermal insulation layer for the floor is applied, the thickness of which should be one hundred millimeters. The insulation element is mineral wool.

Reinforcing mesh is laid from the top of the heat insulator. You can add plasticizer and microfiber to the mixture.

Carrying out the installation procedure

Take a look at what the installation diagram looks like - laying a warm electric floor, reflecting the work. Warm floor connection diagram:

How to install a heated floor? How to set up an electric underfloor heating connection? A diagram for connecting the heated floor is drawn up. Before installation, it is necessary to check the cables for resistance. After this, the value must be checked against the passport.

Warm electric floors can be fixed to a reinforcing mesh. Screeds will help you perform this procedure, thanks to which the fastening occurs. Specially designed tapes that are needed for fastening can act as a replacement for ties.

If the heating floor is installed in a sauna or bathroom, then it is necessary to ground the reinforcing mesh. Next, you need to connect the ground to the temperature control device. For this procedure a good one will do tinned copper wire.

The film floor (infrared) is installed from the top of the heat-insulating layer. According to the manufacturer's instructions, fastening is carried out using specially designed adhesive tape.

In areas where the cable is located above the separation boundary of both floor slabs, it should be hidden in a piece of pipe with a variable cross-section (corrugated pipe). The length of the pipe is 15 centimeters. This will help reduce the likelihood of wire breakage. The cable may break due to thermal expansion of the plates.

The area where the heating cable and cable are connected should be located at a distance of 17 centimeters from the screed so that the components to be connected are completely immersed in the screed.

It is necessary to mark the position of the connecting section on the floor plan. This procedure is necessary, as it may be useful during forced repairs of the electric floor.

When all components are positioned correctly, the cable resistance test must be performed again.

Next, the corrugated pipe from the regulator is installed along the fine. The other end of this pipe must be placed in the middle part between the nearest strips of wire for heating. In inner part pipes with a variable cross-section (hydraulic pipe) connect the heated floor to the thermostat. Thanks to the temperature sensor, the operation of the electric floor is adjusted. Check if you can easily remove the plug-in floor temperature sensor, because you may have to replace it in the future.

If everything is done correctly, the system must be de-energized, and the connected floor heating regulator must be removed before the work is completed. Installation is carried out without connecting the heated floor to the thermostat. Then the screed is formed. As soon as drying takes place, the heating system must be checked again for functionality.

If everything works fine, it is necessary to install the floor covering (tiled, laminated). If a screed is not needed, it is possible to lay the flooring - laminate or linoleum.

Description of ultra-thin floor

Which heated floor to choose? Which is better? Let's consider this option. What are ultra-thin heating mats used for? They are intended for rooms with cement-sand screed. The mats represent an electrical wire with a reduced diameter of three millimeters. It is attached at regular intervals of five centimeters to a fiberglass mesh.

Ultra-thin heating mats do not include the installation of a heating cable, therefore, the installation of this system is easy. You can cut the mat - this makes it possible to lay it in a room with absolutely any shape. Installation can be done even on tiles that are old. Which heated floor is better? Double-core mats are the most high-tech and environmentally friendly heated electric floors. These are ideal warm floors for laminate.

Choosing a floor covering

What is the best flooring to choose for this heating system? Let's consider each material separately.

Laminate

Interestingly, the manufacturers of this flooring prohibit the use of their material in conjunction with heated floors. Manufacturers of this heating design even recommend laminate flooring.

Laminates must have a special sign. Its structure consists of many pores, and the impregnation is not resistant to regular increases or decreases in temperature and is not suitable for a heating system. After some time it will become completely unusable.

It is worth buying a substrate (special), the material class should be 32, and the heating temperature should not be higher than thirty degrees Celsius.

Do not purchase laminate flooring that has a low cost on the construction market, otherwise it is hazardous to health. You can get poisoned. Absolutely every laminate emits formaldehyde, albeit in small quantities. But when heated, the value only increases. Therefore, this flooring must have a special label that allows use in conjunction with electric floors.

Wood

It can only be heated to just above 25 degrees Celsius. If the temperature is higher, it will simply destroy the tree. Therefore, temperature regulation must be carried out in advance. Heating should be carried out only 2/3 of the total possible power.

Soft fiberboard is sold on the territory of the Russian Federation. She has low level thermal conductivity, therefore it is an ideal substrate. Also, this product is absolutely environmentally friendly.

Parquet

This flooring is the most unsuitable for heating. Engineered parquet is best suited for this procedure. Heating can occur, but everything must be done correctly, observing the nuances. Installation must be done using the floating method. Also, the parquet board must be coated with oil. Varnish won't work.

Ceramic tile

This is the best floor covering for warm electric floors. Ceramics is an environmentally friendly material. Tolerates cold and heat very well. There is also a drawback: very noticeable heating is not very favorable for human feet. If you get sick from just one contact with a cold surface, then best option for you. For children it is better to leave the same conditions. Because in more warm conditions, children are more prone to colds.

While ceramic tiles are great for heated floors, wood can also be used. There is no need to strive for a temperature of 30 degrees Celsius. It can be lower, the main thing is to maintain comfort in the room.

Bottom line

Let's summarize. How to lay it? Installing an electric heated floor can be done independently, but with some knowledge and experience. We must strictly adhere to the step-by-step scheme. It is recommended to trust specialists who have suitable education. They will do the job correctly and be able to maintain the small details that exist.

During work, it is imperative to follow safety precautions. Professional workers will be able to attach mats, regulators and their own heating floor sensor. Which heated floor is better? The best heated floors - you need to choose ultra-thin heating ones. average cost for 1 m2 equals 500 rubles.

Which regulator is better to choose? It is better to choose the first digital thermostat for underfloor heating, designed to be fully controlled. Electric heated floors under tiles are perfect for a bathroom. Heated floor sensor and regulator; it is better to entrust their installation to a specialist.

Electric underfloor heating has become an excellent complement to radiator heating. It gives a feeling of a warm and smooth surface and creates comfort. Now it is very popular, because in addition to comfort, it is also quite economical thanks to modern intelligent systems. It is easy to operate and install, and allows you to create an energy-saving room heating scheme. This flooring is used in bathrooms, on balconies and even in bathhouses.


The diagram shows the types of systems, installation methods and recommendations for choosing a coating

Depending on the type heating device There are three types of floors:

IN cable floor The main heat source is the wire, due to which heating occurs. This type of heating system is the most labor-intensive to install due to the complexity of laying the cable itself and pouring the floor. The height of the ceilings is significantly reduced, since the thickness of the screed is usually 50 mm.

Do not forget that the cable cannot be laid under plumbing fixtures and furniture.


Layed floor heating cable

The cable version of the floor goes on sale in the form of a coil or sections that are made of elastic materials. The thinnest cable is considered to be in the form of mats. Only a cable electric floor can be convection, while the system has film and rod options specifications heat exchange similar to infrared heaters.

Heating of underfloor heating involves resistive and more complex species self-regulation. A two-core resistive cable is used for heating much more often, since this type of cable reduces the strength of electromagnetic radiation. Sophisticated self-regulating underfloor heating bases are designed in such a way that the system itself looks for areas of overheating and either reduces the temperature in that area or turns off the power completely. The undeniable advantage of such a floor is that it can be laid in any shape, which is very important for heating non-standard floors. In addition to floors, the cable can be used to heat drains and roofs.

Mats are considered a type of cable floor and are installed under the tiles. Heating occurs using a cable with a smaller cross-section. Floors of this type are purchased ready-made: the heating elements are attached to a special mesh. And the thickness of the mat is only 2.8 mm. Since there is a thin layer of adhesive on the underside of the material, the use of adhesive mounting tape is eliminated. In this case, installing heated electric floors is very simple, since the wires are already laid and secured to the base.

Cable flooring on mesh is best suited for laying under tiles due to its small thickness. If such a base is laid under laminate or linoleum, the floor must be screeded. The thickness of the screed is less than that of a conventional cable floor and is 30 mm.

Infrared flooring is considered the safest for health. It can be laid under any covering without fear of a large amount of furniture and plumbing fixtures. The core floor requires the use of glue and screed. The infrared floor is based on carbon rods that withstand overheating of the surface well due to self-regulation.

To install such a floor, no preliminary work is required. The flooring is carried out evenly over the entire surface. Infrared mats can be cut into pieces of desired shapes and sizes.

To enhance the heating of all elements, a heat-reflecting substrate is laid under the electric floor.

The only drawback of this floor is its high price.

Electric floor installation

The process of installing heated floors is similar for all types of heating elements. There are several options for installing a heated floor system:

  1. Installation ;
  2. Installation on top of screed;
  3. Laying under tiles (film flooring).

Installation in the base of the screed is suitable for the bathroom, kitchen and balcony. Waterproofing and an additional insulating layer are laid under the heating structure. A thin layer of screed is applied to it.

If or will be used as floor coverings, then it is advisable to use a film electric floor. In this case, foamed polyethylene with foil is placed on the screed. Next, all electrical elements, additional waterproofing and flooring are installed.

In the case of installing a cable floor, you first need to draw a diagram of the floor, taking into account the location of the furniture in the room, heating devices and other heat sources, and distribute the heating elements and components.

Electric heated floors differ from water heated floors in that all areas of the heating system receive the same heating. Water, passing through the contours of the pipes, enters the premises already cooled, which leads to uneven heating.

To calculate heating materials, you can use the table of heated floor manufacturers. The main thing is to take into account the heat loss of the room and the total length of the wire.

It is also necessary to check the electrical input for power withstand. If the power is insufficient, then automatic fuses are installed.

If there is any on the floor old screed, it must be removed and the surface thoroughly cleaned. Waterproofing should be laid with a start of about 10 cm on the wall.

A tape is attached around the perimeter of the room to compensate for the deformation of the floor during heating. Using a foil backing, the floor is insulated to retain heat and limit the downward movement of heat flow.

If it is an additional source of heating, then only foamed polyethylene is used as a substrate. If we are talking about a balcony or veranda, then the heated floor must be solid. A layer of polystyrene foam or mineral wool reaches 100 mm.

Then a mesh is laid to fill the screed. The mesh can also be replaced with microfiber, since the screed layer is quite thin.

Before laying the cable, you should determine its resistance and check the data with the data sheet. These technical specifications may differ by no more than 10%.

Care must be taken to ensure that the wires do not cross. When installing a floor in a bathroom or bathhouse, you will need grounding using a copper wire connected to the regulator.

The area of ​​the wire between the plates is hidden in corrugated pipes 10-15 cm long. This reduces the likelihood that the cable will break due to thermal expansion of the plates.

To ensure that subsequent repairs to the heated floor are carried out without errors, the connection points are marked on the apartment plan. The wire resistance is checked again after all the elements are in place according to the previously determined pattern. If there is a slight difference, you can turn on electric heated floors. A corrugated pipe is laid between the regulator and the cable strips, inside which the temperature sensor is placed. It regulates the heating level and can be replaced if necessary.

After laying all the heating elements, the finishing screed is poured. After the screed has completely dried (and this will not happen earlier than after 28 days), you should again check the functionality of the entire heating system. And only then the finishing floor covering is laid. If we are talking about a film floor, then the floor covering is laid without a screed.

Thermostat – control of heated floors

Using a thermostat, you can set any floor temperature. It is installed on a wall with a height of 30 cm and above. When turned on, the indicator lights up and floor heating begins.
You can set a certain temperature, upon reaching which the system turns off and the floor begins to cool down a little. There are more complex programs in which a whole scheme is created for increasing and decreasing heat in the room depending on the time of day and day of the week, which allows you to heat the floor without human intervention, for example, by the time he arrives home. In system " smart House» You can control the heated electric floor remotely, via the Internet or mobile phone. With such a system, costs are quickly recouped through rational use.

Electric heated floor has great amount positive aspects. In addition to additional heating in winter, it is indispensable in spring and autumn, when it is cold outside and central heating does not function. Warm floors are used in the rooms, on the balcony, ground floors, V wooden house. But it is most advisable to install such a floor in the bathroom. A warm floor will not only allow you to walk barefoot, but will also eliminate excess humidity in the room, thereby preventing the occurrence of fungi and mold.

Publication date: 03/15/2015

Nowadays, you can often find heated floors in various living spaces. The installation of heated floors is divided in such cases into two categories: electric and water heated floors.

Each of these types of warm floor coverings has its own characteristics. To figure out which ones, you need to understand the structure of these types of floors.

Electrical cable equipped with a clamp

Laying damper tape

IN warm floors, operating on electricity, a concept such as convection is used. The same characteristic is common to all radiator systems heating. It consists in the fact that hot air heats up and rises to the ceiling level.

Its approximate temperature ranges from twenty-five to twenty-seven degrees Celsius. This air then cools and settles closer to the floor level.

At this stage, its temperature is already only sixteen to eighteen degrees Celsius.

At floor level, the cooled air is again heated by the radiator unit and rises upward. Such a heating system, of course, provides an overall level of heat in the room, but the floor remains much cooler than, for example, the ceiling.

It is not always pleasant to walk on such a floor with bare feet, especially if the heating power is insufficient. winter time of the year.

It is the cold or coolness of the floor surface that the warm floor system is designed to cope with. When this technology operates, such inconvenient convection is not observed.

The floor is heated evenly and continuously. Only part required heat is located under the ceiling.

Thanks to the warm floor system, the feet are in contact with the floor surface, which has a constant temperature of 20-24 degrees Celsius. This allows any resident of the house to feel as comfortable as possible without wearing slippers or socks.

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Principle of operation

Room temperature distribution

To understand the principle of operation of a heated floor, you will need to disassemble its structure in more detail. To do this, you will need to distinguish two main types of heated floors:

  • Electric;
  • Water.

The structure of these floors is almost the same. It consists in the fact that a special cable or pipeline is laid on sexual base. Then a finishing screed is applied on top, which masks these elements, at the same time leveling the floor.

The electric cable will operate using electricity, heating up, thereby heating the floor, and the pipeline will begin to function with the help of the circulating air in it. hot water, which will flow into it and thereby heat the flooring.

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Electric heated floor

The main working element of an electric-type heated floor is the cable. He is the one who does the main work. This element has a certain resistance.

When an electric current passes through it, it heats up, transferring its high temperature to the concrete screed.

The very first modifications of heating cables were not approved by environmentalists. The reasons for this negative attitude are the magnetic field that was created by these elements. Currently, two-core cables are used to create electric heated floors.

These elements also create a magnetic field, but its effect on the human body is negligible. The principle of operation of two-core cables is that one main electrical flow continues to flow through the first core, and a counter flow flows through the second core.

It is this that dampens the radiation of the oncoming magnetic flux. This “meeting” occurs due to the fact that neighboring coils in the heating mat are located quite close. Their step is five centimeters.

To regulate the temperature in the room and thereby create comfortable conditions in the electrical system of heated floors, there are special thermostats. With their help, if necessary, you can save a decent amount of electricity, which is often spent on unnecessary temperature increases.

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Disadvantages of electric heated floors

Electrical cable with clamp

  • You can turn on the heated floor only after the screed has completely dried. To do this you will have to wait about thirty days.
  • If a malfunction is detected or the electrical circuit is damaged, you will have to destroy the screed layer and reapply it after repairing the heating system.
  • A warm electric floor consumes an incredible amount of electricity. It takes from 120 to 150 watts to heat 1 m². This indicator will be correct under the most unfavorable conditions. In less severe conditions, 60 to 100 watts are spent heating a square meter of floor.

As a result, according to the most minimal calculations, provided that the temperature is constantly regulated in order to heat the floor electrical method, you will need to spend at least 30 to 60 watts per 1 m². This figure may not be affordable for everyone. Therefore use this system It is better in rooms with a small area or in buildings where hot water supply is not provided.

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Water type

It is worth noting right away that a water heated floor is significantly different from an electric floor in terms of efficiency. In this case, the payment for electricity will not increase to incredible heights.

I would like to note that connecting a heated water floor to the system central heating apartment building Absolutely forbidden.

This will greatly increase the overall load on the system. Also, such an unauthorized connection can leave neighbors without the proper amount of heat, since the water passing through the floor quickly cools down.

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Choice of coverage

To install a water-type underfloor heating system in ordinary apartment You will need to certify a whole bunch of documents and obtain a number of approvals. In addition, paperwork for installing heated floors can take a lot of money.

Laying scheme for heated floors

For this reason water heating floor coverings are mainly used in private homes and apartment buildings new type. The latter have special risers to drain water in case of leakage of heating systems.

If the water heating system is assembled from copper or steel pipes, then sooner or later leaks will appear at the joints. The resulting leaks can easily flood the neighbors below.

For this reason, it is best to use metal-plastic pipes for water floor heating. They will help avoid this problem and will last much longer than steel structures.

If we consider the installation of water floor heating from an economic point of view, it can be noted that this is a rather expensive undertaking.

This installation costs much more than electric underfloor heating. Is it true, cash The money spent on installation will pay off over time. While electric flooring will require significant funds constantly.

Considering all the arguments presented, we can confidently say that choosing a type is worth taking into account a number of factors:

  • Type of heating (not the main or primary heating system);
  • Heating area;
  • Possibility of connection to centralized heating.

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Installation of water floor heating

Installation of water heating for the floor is carried out in several stages. First, the base level is determined.

The surface on which the heating system will be installed must be absolutely flat. Otherwise, the flooring will heat up unevenly.

In total, there are two main lines of pipes in a water floor heating system. The first goes from the heating boiler to the heating system located in the floor.

The second one returns cooled water for reheating. Both pipes must have shut-off valves, and the ends of the pipes themselves must have collectors. To ensure good water circulation, a pump is installed in the system.

Laying flooring on a heated floor

Thanks to it, the water in the system will warm up faster.

The manifolds to which the pipes are connected are pieces of pipe that have holes on both sides. There are two collectors in the heating system. One of them serves for the return pipe, the second for the supply pipe.

A supply pipe is attached to one end of the collector, and a metal-plastic pipe of the heating system is attached to the other using a fitting. The return pipe is connected to the heating system in a similar way. The result should be a closed system.

It is worth noting that manifolds and valves must be located in the cabinet. This will allow you to more conveniently monitor the functionality of the system and, if necessary, close the valves against children.

Before putting the system out heating pipes for the floor, you should first cover it with a layer of waterproofing. A heat insulator is placed on top of the waterproofing layer. It will help not to unnecessarily heat the base, the temperature of which, in general, is of no interest to anyone.

Thanks to thermal insulation, all the heat will go directly to the screed. If this stage of work is not carried out, then you can lose from 20 to 30 percent of useful heat every day.

If the coating is planned to be done on the ground floor of the building, then the thermal insulation layer should be quite decent. Its thickness must be twenty centimeters.

On the second and subsequent floors, several layers of thermal insulation will be sufficient. As thermal insulation materials glass wool, extruded foam concrete, expanded polystyrene, etc. can be used.

To prevent the screed from simply cracking, you will need to lay a reinforced mesh over the thermal insulation layer. For greater strength of the entire structure, the heating pipes will need to be attached to this element.

For fixation, ordinary knitting wire is used. There is no need to attach the pipes directly to the mesh. There must be a gap between these elements for thermal expansion. In addition to wire, special tapes or clips are suitable for fastening.

The fastener pitch should be approximately one meter. In order for the coating to heat up evenly, the length of the pipe should not exceed one hundred meters. If this value is not enough, then you will have to use two or three or more circuits.

Two methods can be used for laying pipes:

Functionality check

  • Bifilar. Other names: spiral or snail;
  • Meander. Other names: zigzag or snake.

When laying meander, the first turn should be located at the front door or at the window. This option is more suitable for small spaces.

When laying a pipeline using the bifilar method, the return and supply pipes are parallel to each other. The final design is similar to a labyrinth in the center, which has connections between the return and supply pipes.

The pipe laying pitch can vary from 10 to 30 centimeters. The exception is areas near entrance doors, external walls and windows. In such places the step should be at least 15 centimeters.

After installation, a test run of water is carried out. The pressure in the system should be one and a half times higher than planned for future operation. The check should last at least two hours. During this time, the temperature and pressure of the water should under no circumstances change.

Only after checking the functionality of the heating system can screeding be carried out. To carry out this type of work, it is better to buy ready-made construction mixture. As a rule, there are instructions on how to lay it on the material packaging itself.

It is worth noting that the screed should only be carried out when the heating system is running. There must be pressure in the pipes, since if you fill the pipes without the required pressure, cracks will appear in the screed when starting the heating system.

This will happen because the pipes will expand and require more space.