Hydrangea paniculata: description of the best varieties. Secrets of growing paniculata hydrangea

Planting paniculata hydrangea will decorate problem areas of the garden. Caring for crops certainly requires certain skills and effort. However, you just have to look at the photo of this beauty to be convinced that the game is worth the candle!

Description of hydrangea paniculata

Hydrangea paniculata is a genus of shrubs and trees from the Saxifraga family. Originally from Far East. The height of the paniculata hydrangea bush reaches 3 meters (some varieties up to 10 m). Shoots are upright, spreading. From the second year of growing season, the stems become woody. The leaves are opposite, large, finely toothed.

Hydrangea pleases gardeners with a long flowering period

Hydrangea paniculata differs from other species in the shape of its inflorescence. Many small graceful flowers are collected in pyramidal panicles. Spike-shaped inflorescences reach up to 30 cm in length and 20 cm in width. It blooms very profusely, forming a luxurious crown, from June to October. The first flowering occurs in the 3-4th year of growth. The color of the flowers is chameleon: by autumn the white color will be replaced by pink.

An adult paniculata hydrangea bush is completely winter-hardy. It grows on acidic and polluted soils, in shaded areas, and is very moisture-loving. Long-lived - grows up to 60 years. Hydrangea paniculata is an excellent honey plant and will decorate any, even the most specific area of ​​the garden.

Popular varieties of paniculata hydrangea

1. Grandiflora(“Grandiflora”) – common popular variety. Fast-growing bush with large inflorescences. During the flowering period, it changes color four times: when the inflorescences bloom - cream; full bloom - white, turning into pink; in autumn – red-green. Blooms slightly later than other varieties.

   

   Variety "Grandiflora"

2. "Kyushu"(“Kyushu”) - reaches a height of three meters, distinguished by a spreading fan-shaped crown. The flowers have a pleasant aroma.

   

   Variety "Kyushu"

3. "Mathilda"(“Matilda”) - a bush up to two meters in height. The crown of the bush reaches 3 m in diameter. The flowers change color from cream to red-green.

   

   Variety "Mathilda"

4. "Pink Diamond"(“Pink Diamond”) - is distinguished by very large inflorescences, which over time acquire an almost red color.

   

   Variety "Pink Diamond"

5. "Brussels Lace"(“Brussels Lace”) is a rare variety. Forms many inflorescences with fruiting flowers. She looks tender, like a bride.

   

   Variety "Brussels Lace"

6. "Tardiva"(“Tardiva”) - characterized by late flowering (August - October). The height of the bush is up to three meters, the inflorescences are located at the ends of the shoots. Used for group plantings.

   

   Variety "Tardiva"

A variety of varieties of paniculata hydrangea will help you choose the one that is right for you.

Planting paniculata hydrangea

Before planting hydrangea paniculata, you need to choose the right place.

Illumination. Hydrangea is planted in semi-shaded areas. On open areas hydrangea will grow poorly and the inflorescences will become smaller.

Hydrangea should be planted in partial shade. Where other shrubs grow poorly, it will feel great

The soil. The plant prefers fertile clay or loamy soil. Does not develop in sandy soil. The soil for growing hydrangea should be acidic, so the flowering will be abundant and the color of the flowers will be brighter. You can acidify the soil by first adding half-rotted pine needles, sawdust, and brown peat to it.

Important! Do not apply deoxidizers to hydrangea - lime, dolomite flour, ash.

Humidity. Hydrangea is a very moisture-loving plant and may not tolerate proximity to the same “drinkers.” To maintain moisture under the crown, it is recommended to plant ground cover flowers: saxifrage and sedum.

Planting hydrangeas is very easy

Hydrangea paniculata is planted in early spring and autumn. The planting hole should be wide, up to 70 cm in diameter, to evenly distribute the roots. The recess is filled with a portion of mineral or organic fertilizers and moisturizes. When planting a hydrangea seedling, the root collar should not be buried. The planting hole, filled with soil and compacted, needs to be watered generously.

Advice. In autumn, planting paniculata hydrangea can only be done in the southern regions. In all others - only in the spring.

The distance between planted bushes is at least one and a half meters. In group plantings of hydrangeas, to achieve rapid closure of the crowns, seedlings can be planted at a shorter distance from each other. As they grow, such plantings are thinned out.

Care for hydrangea paniculata

Hydrangea paniculata - quite demanding and capricious plant. Proper care will help you achieve bright abundant flowering on a powerful healthy bush.

Watering. Abundant and regular (during drought at least twice a week). After watering, the soil must be loosened, avoiding cracking of the top layer. The solution to the problem will be mulching with pine needles or peat.

Mulching hydrangeas

Feeding. Hydrangea is very responsive to fertilization. At the beginning of growth, it will be useful to add a diluted infusion of nettle. Mineral fertilizing is applied carefully, without excess, but regularly (every 10 days). It is preferable to use water-soluble fertilizers and apply them along with watering. From organic matter, slurry and diluted bird droppings are excellent.

Important! The interval for fertilizing hydrangea should not exceed 15 days. Otherwise, flowering will be sparse and faded.

Trimming. Every year, hydrangea bushes need to be pruned short. This way they will retain their attractiveness for a long time and bloom profusely.

In autumn, all remaining inflorescences, old and weak shoots, and branches growing inside the bush are cut off from the bush. It is recommended to leave 10-12 strong shoots in winter.

Pruning hydrangea

Spring pruning is carried out before the buds open. The shoots of an adult bush are cut to 2-3 buds, young ones - to 3-5. This pruning will allow the bush to gain strength over the summer and meet the winter fully armed. Flowering becomes more luxuriant.

Important! Pruning is required for paniculata hydrangea. Otherwise, the bush develops poorly and does not bloom.

Old bushes need to be rejuvenated from time to time. To do this, the shoots are cut under the stump. The bush is completely restored in two years. Standard methods of growing paniculata hydrangea require more gentle pruning.

Shelter. Young seedlings require winter cover with spruce branches or other materials. In regions with harsh climates, mature bushes also need to be covered.

Do not neglect covering the bushes for the winter

A photo of paniculata hydrangea in the garden conveys all its beauty and inspires to overcome difficulties when growing.

Hydrangea propagation

Hydrangea paniculata reproduces in the following ways:

1. Seeds.
2. By cuttings.
3. By layering.

It is immediately worth noting that propagating hydrangea by seeds is not justified. The seeds are very small, they produce unfriendly shoots, the quality is lost, and a flowering bush can only be obtained after four years.

Hydrangea seeds

The most common method of propagation is cuttings. Cuttings are taken from one-year-old mature shoots. Typically, ripening occurs in June, when hydrangea produces buds.

Important! Cuttings cut in spring and autumn do not root well.

Rules for cutting cuttings:

• the cutting must have at least three pairs of buds;
• the lower section under the kidney at a distance of 2 cm;
• the upper cut above the bud at a distance of 5 cm (if the shoot is small, the upper cut can be omitted);
• the lower leaves are removed, leaving 1-2 leaves at the top;
• the remaining sheets are cut in half.

The chopped shoots need to be soaked in water for several days. Hydrangea is very capricious when propagating, so to achieve the desired result, it is recommended to treat the cuttings with a growth stimulator.

Cutting hydrangea cuttings

The cuttings are rooted in containers with a sand-peat mixture (1:2). Is buried planting material by 2/3. The soil mixture is covered with a layer of sand on top so that the bottom of the cutting does not reach the peat mixture. The seedlings are covered with jars and placed in the shade.

It is very important to maintain constant humidity in the containers, otherwise the cuttings will not take root. Spraying and watering should be done every day. The first roots will appear after three weeks. Now you can remove the jars and continue to water the seedlings regularly.

For the winter, containers should be placed in a cool but frost-free place. During this period, you need to monitor the condition of the plant and prevent the appearance of fungus.

Using the cutting method you will get young plant by next year

IN open ground seedlings are planted in August next year. By this time, the cuttings will already have young shoots. If flower buds appear during this period, they need to be cut off so that the plant can gain strength. A young seedling needs to be covered for the winter, and only after the first flowering is the bush considered winter-hardy.

Obtaining layering of paniculata hydrangea is quite simple. One-year-old mature shoots are bent into a dug ditch 20-25 cm deep. Shallow cuts are first made on the stem at the intended location of root germination. In the ditch, the layer is pinned or fixed with a stone. Top part the shoot must be above the ground, always in a vertical position. The ditch is filled with earth and moistened.

Hydrangea is easily propagated by layering

Already next spring, the layering will produce young shoots. There is no need to rush to separate them from the mother bush. This can be done in a year, when the young animals have gained enough strength. All varietal properties the mother bush is preserved.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea in the garden is affected by many diseases and pests. To the very dangerous diseases relate:

The fight against diseases must be carried out in a timely manner with special preparations and not to forget about preventive measures.

Snails can cause significant damage to hydrangea leaves.

Pests of hydrangea paniculata:

• snails - feed on leaves;
• aphids and spider mites - located on the underside of the leaf, they feed on the sap of the plant;
• pennies and bedbugs are larger sucking pests;
• leaf beetle, leaf roller, weevil - gnaw and twist leaves;
• nematodes - live in root tissues.

Important! During the flowering of paniculata hydrangea, spraying with chemicals is not recommended.

Weak plants cannot resist diseases. Cultivation of zoned varieties, compliance with agricultural technology, preventive spring spraying Bordeaux mixture, removing dried branches - these are the measures that will help avoid the scourge of most diseases.

Weevil

Plants damaged by nematodes and viral infections must be removed.

Hydrangea paniculata is a very capricious beauty. Growing it involves many difficulties. But when the first huge inflorescences appear, all the difficulties are forgotten, and you just want to enjoy this incredible miracle of nature.

Blooming hydrangea paniculata: video

Varieties and types of hydrangea: photos

Most summer residents prefer to grow not only fruit or vegetable plants, but also decorate their plots with a variety of flowers. Most often the choice falls on various varieties tulips, daffodils, petunias, lilies and other beautiful flowering plants. You can decorate your garden not only with the above plants, but also with such lush flowering attractive plant, like paniculata hydrangea.

Description and varieties of paniculata hydrangea

In nature Hydrangea paniculata is found on the territory of Sakhalin, Japan and China, reaching a height of 10 meters. In Russia and other countries, hydrangea reaches only 2-3 meters in height, but at the same time adapts perfectly to any climatic conditions. In a harsh winter, a small part of the shoots may be damaged, but the hydrangea will quickly recover. If you follow all the rules for growing, hydrangea can gain about 25 cm in height every year.

This plant looks very attractive in summer and autumn time of the year. It is in the middle of summer that the plants begin to gradually open in inflorescences beautiful small flowers, which, in turn, are divided into 2 types:

• sterile (approximately 3 centimeters);
• bisexual (their size is slightly smaller, and the petals fall off much faster than those of the sterile ones).

This representative of the hydrangea family begins to bloom after reaching 3 years of age. At the same time, most varieties of hydrangea paniculata During the flowering period, the color of the petals may change. Initially they are cream-colored, then they become pink, and then red or greenish. Sometimes there are a lot of flowers a large number of, as a result of which the branches of the plant begin to bend and/or break under their weight. In this case, the plant definitely needs support.

Hydrangea paniculata leaves have quite bright and large(about 15 cm in length). They have a velvety texture with slight pubescence. Paniculata hydrangea is propagated by seeds, cuttings, layering and dividing the bush.

Types of paniculata hydrangeas

Varieties of this beautiful plant quite a lot, but most of them use especially popular from gardeners. So, the following types are most often grown:

Some varieties of paniculata are used hydrangeas in landscape design . Landscape design masters prefer to combine paniculate hydrangea with tree hydrangea, creating unique and attractive compositions. This plant is also quite often planted next to roses, peonies, mountain weeds, irises, and conifers. In park areas and squares, paniculata hydrangea is planted near birch trees, maples and willows.

Mostly landscape designers They prefer to decorate the façade of a building with hydrangea. The following types are most often used in landscape design:

In addition to all the above types of this plant, there is still quite many different varieties. Some of them require a lot of moisture and ultraviolet rays, others prefer acidic soil and shady places, and still others bloom much more abundantly and luxuriantly. In any case, whichever of these varieties the gardener chooses, paniculata hydrangea will decorate the area and give it a special chic.

Planting and care features of paniculata hydrangea

Initially, before you start planting a plant, it is very important to choose the right place. Some types of hydrangea grow better on shadow side, while others prefer constant direct exposure sun rays. In this case, the soil must certainly be fertile, since sandy soil absolutely not suitable for hydrangea.

Big some varieties of hydrangea survives better in an acidic environment. The brightness of the flowers and the number of “panicles” depend on this factor. You can acidify the soil with brown peat or sawdust. There is no need to add dolomite flour, ash and lime.

Paniculata hydrangea can be planted in open ground in March or early autumn. At the same time, it is better to purchase a plant in the spring season, since it is during this period that it will take root faster and begin to grow more actively.

It is better to make the hole for planting wider, at least 75 centimeters, and deeper – about 55 centimeters. You need to add mineral or organic fertilizers to it, add fertile soil and lightly moisten it. As soon as the liquid is completely absorbed, you need to fill in the remaining soil, being careful not to bury the root collar, which must remain flush with the surface. If it is planned plant several seedlings at once, then the distance between them should be at least 1.5 meters for tall bushes and 75 centimeters for dwarf ones.

Hydrangea paniculata is unpretentious in care and it is enough to follow a series of simple rules to care for her. When caring for this plant, you will need to follow the following recommendations:

Hydrangea paniculata diseases

There is also a number of specific diseases, which can affect paniculate hydrangea. Most often, the plant begins to hurt if it is not properly cared for or if it is grown on the shady side, where the sun's rays never penetrate. Typical diseases include the following:

You can fight the above diseases with the help of special drugs called fungicides. You need to fight the disease when the first symptoms are noticed.

Paniculata hydrangea also can be affected by pests. For example, snails, leaf beetles and weevils can feed on leaves; aphids and bugs - suck the juice out of them; bugs, nematodes - eat the roots. Various folk and specialized remedies will help rid the plant of such pests.

Hydrangea flower

Ecology of consumption. Estate: Paniculata hydrangea is popular and in great demand among amateur gardeners...

Paniculata hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) is a low (about one and a half meters) shrub native to the Far East.Wild hydrangea paniculata can be found in Japan and China, as well as in the Kuril Islands and Sakhalin.

Her garden forms resistant to adverse conditions environment, are readily used by gardeners and designers to decorate their plots.

Appearance of hydrangea paniculata

Hydrangea paniculata forms large (up to 30 cm long) inflorescences consisting of two types of flowers. Bisexual flowers are small, and after pollination they lose their petals. The size of sterile flowers can reach 3 centimeters in diameter, and they remain on the bushes for a very long time, gradually changing color from cream or greenish-white to soft pink and greenish-red.

Hydrangea grows quite quickly. Large, oppositely planted leaves are located on straight, spreading branches, and inflorescences are formed on the shoots of the current year.

Hydrangea paniculata: planting and care

Hydrangea paniculata is a moisture-loving plant; it even tolerates waterlogged soils.

To get a strong, abundantly flowering bush, it is necessary to keep the soil under it moist within a radius of up to one and a half meters. In dry weather, the plant needs regular watering.

Hydrangea grows best in clayey, acidic soils; on soil that has an alkaline reaction, it may develop leaf chlorosis. If the acidity level is insufficient, use it for acidification inkstone and ammonium sulfate, pine litter or peat.

It is preferable to plant hydrangea near hedges or various structures that provide protection from the wind. Select areas with good lighting and fertile soil.

Hydrangea paniculata can grow in conditions of increased gas pollution, so it can be planted along the road or grown in urban environments.

It should be borne in mind that in regions with a harsh climate, it is advisable to provide hydrangeas with light shelter for the winter. However, shoots damaged by frost in summer are usually easily restored, and in general the plant has good winter hardiness.

In early spring or even winter period It is recommended to prune hydrangea; if pruning is done too late, when the plant's dormant period has ended, it can weaken it, leading to disease and lack of flowers. By adjusting the degree of pruning, you can achieve abundant flowering (for this you need to trim last year's shoots very short) or increased stem growth (in this case, choose gentle pruning).

The shrub requires regular feeding. Liquid mineral fertilizers are applied every two weeks; organic fertilizers - once a month, a week after mineral fertilizing. In August, fertilization is stopped. To strengthen the shoots, water the hydrangea once a month with a solution of potassium permanganate (0.5 g per bucket of water is required).

Hydrangea paniculata: methods of propagation

Hydrangea paniculata is propagated layering And cuttings; To achieve success, it is advisable to use growth stimulants (for example, heteroauxin), since this plant is quite difficult to propagate.

Propagation of hydrangea by layering

To get a layer, bend a branch of a bush and pin it to the ground. It is recommended to first make a small depression in the soil and cover the top of the shoot generously with soil. The top of the branch is fixed in a vertical position, tied to a support.

This procedure is performed in spring or late summer. It will be possible to separate the seedling from the mother plant after a year, when it forms its own roots.

Hydrangea cuttings

From the shoots removed during pruning of the plant, lignified cuttings are prepared for propagation of hydrangea. The selected branches are kept in water for two to three days, after which the cuttings are cut. Each cutting should have from three to five internodes.

After treating the lower sections of the cuttings with a growth stimulant, they are planted, buried approximately 2/3 into the soil.

The soil for planting is prepared from a mixture of sand and high peat in equal parts; The container with the planted cuttings is covered with film.

Green cuttings are cut at the end of June from well-developed shoots and rooted in pots, covered with film or glass jars.

To plant green cuttings, river sand is mixed with peat in a ratio of 1: 2; in a pot, the peat mixture is covered with a thick layer of sand so that the buried cutting does not reach peat soil. In pots with cuttings, keep the soil moist at all times; store them in the basement until spring.

Sometimes cuttings are left in pots until the young shoots have matured; This usually happens by August of the following year, and then the seedlings are moved into open ground.

Despite some growing difficulties associated with the harsh climate of central Russia, paniculata hydrangea is popular and in great demand among amateur gardeners. published

Join us on

We describe planting and caring for hydrangea in spring and autumn (tree-like, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Let's consider the location, soil, planting rules and step-by-step instructions, as well as watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparation for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Urals, Siberia and southern regions).

Planting hydrangea in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth

The plant is heat-loving, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and sufficient moisture.

We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, tree-like, petiolate, Sargent and others.

Landing location

Hydrangea (all types) is a light-loving plant; it grows well in a sunny and open place, but bright sun and strong wind should be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary; she really loves diffused light.

At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light partial shade; in this case, it blooms later with fewer flowers. The presence of sunlight in the morning, in the first half of the day, is very important. Therefore, the eastern side is better suited than the western side.

Soil and acidity

Hydrangea grows well on fertile, humus-rich soils. clay soils. It develops worse on red soils, and sandy soils are contraindicated.

The optimal acidity level is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on neutral soil they develop slowly and are pale in color.

Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of leaves). When a bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by light and pale color of the leaves.

Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron objects (nails, a jar, a horseshoe).

When planting, prepare a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers.

Soil mixture

Compound: humus, turf soil, leaf soil and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil (chernozem), peat and sand - 2:2:1:1. And also nutrients: 20-25 g (tablespoon + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 g of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 g of superphosphate (150-250 g of bone meal).

If spruce and pine trees grow nearby, then you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil under them. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without applying fertilizers during planting.

Complete ban on lime, chalk and wood ash.

Landing distance

Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate - 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm. If you want to plant hydrangea in a row ( hedge, “mixborder”), then you can dig a trench 90-110 cm wide.

If you want to achieve earlier flowering, then when planting, dig holes closer to each other (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years, thin out the bushes if necessary.

Planting pit

Depth – 36-45, width – 51-65 cm. The roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.

Planting depth

The root collar should be located at soil level, a maximum of 2-3 cm lower, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.

Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas

1. Dig a hole the right size 15-30 days before planting.
2. Prepare the soil mixture and fill the planting hole.
3. Dig a hole and taper soil mixture place the seedling on required depth and spread out the roots. Gradually fill the hole and compact the soil.
4. Water the bush with 8-12 liters of water and sprinkle with bark, sawdust or peat - 6-8 cm thick and 16-20 cm in diameter.
5. Cover the flower from direct sunlight during the day and strong winds.

When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or autumn?

The best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period To plant hydrangea in cold climates - only in spring, but in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.

Caring for hydrangea after planting

Preparing for flowering

For the first two years, cut off the inflorescences at the bud (pea) stage. And then the plant will direct all its forces to the development of the root system and above-ground parts, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.

• Watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.

Caring for garden hydrangea: growing secrets

Caring for a flower consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to add mulch to the tree trunk for greater moisture retention. Spread sawdust, peat, pine needles or wood chips in a 7-8 cm layer, with a diameter of 24-30 cm.

Top dressing

When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you do not need to feed them for the first two years. General rule fertilize until July with acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (bone meal, superphosphate).

The plant's need for nutrients oh so tall, how quickly it grows and blooms powerfully.

1. Complex nutrition for growth. In early - mid-May, feed with complex mineral fertilizer - 25-35 grams per 10 liters of water. Or separately a tablespoon (15 g) of urea + 25-30 g of superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and a tablespoon (15 g) of potassium sulfate.
   Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic fertilizers: infusion of mullein or bird droppings - 1:10. Repeat feeding after 13-16 days.
2. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizer for flowering. 12-16 days before flowering (beginning - mid-June), liquid fertilizing is carried out: dissolve 65-75 g of superphosphate and 41-49 g of potassium sulfate in water and water the bush.
3. During flowering. Repeat the previous feeding at the time of mass flowering to prolong it and ensure the formation of new flower buds.

• It is not recommended to use wood ash for feeding. Fertilizers are well suited for heather species and rhododendron.
• Avoid excess nitrogen, which leads to reduced winter hardiness, poor flowering and promotes the development of rot. Apply only in April - May.
• Important! An excess of fertilizers, especially organic ones (mullein, manure), will do more harm than a deficiency.

Watering hydrangea

The flower is moisture-loving and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated; lack of sufficient moisture leads to impaired development.

In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is 15-25 liters of water every 13-16 days, and if there is a rainy summer, then 4-5 times per season.

Lack of moisture in the fall reduces the winter hardiness of the plant, so if there is little rain in the fall, additional watering is required.

Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. Soft water is best for irrigation.

It is better to water in the morning or evening near the tree trunk, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.

Proper pruning of hydrangea: spring and autumn

All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in spring can only be done from 3-4 years of age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens are divided into two groups according to the type of pruning.

Group No. 1 (large-leaved (garden), prickly, serrated, oak-leaved, Sargent and petiolate hydrangea)

These species bloom on last year's shoots and require sanitary and cosmetic pruning. Optimal time prunings - as soon as the buds have swollen a little, there is no active movement of juices, plus such pruned shoots can be rooted. Let's use the example of garden hydrangea.

Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophila) cannot be pruned, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, prune every fourth branch older than 3 years, especially those growing inward, so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems at the root. This pruning, in addition to giving a more decorative shape, improves flowering.

Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)

Exception: modern varieties from the “Forever and ever”, “You&Me” series, as well as the “MiniPenny” varieties, which bloom on the shoots of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past winter.

• Petiolate hydrangea is lightly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.

Group No. 2 (tree-like and paniculate)

These species, which bloom on young shoots (current season), are pruned every year before the buds open. Best time: mid-late March (as soon as the snow has melted). Annual formative pruning is required, since if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.

1. Hydrangea tree is the first to wake up. The shoots are cut to 2-3 buds from the ground. On a powerful and mature bush, sometimes only one pair of buds is left. To form a decorative shape of the bush, shoots that are weak and growing inward are pruned.
2. Hydrangea paniculata needs more gentle pruning. Last year's shoots are shortened by a third.

Adviсe

• To thin out the bush, remove completely every year old, weak and inward-growing shoots.
• Trim frozen stems to the first living bud.

Bush rejuvenation

It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush using special pruning: cut all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from ground level (“under the stump”) or to the level of perennial wood. Next spring, young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative appearance of the bush will be restored.

Should I prune my hydrangea for the winter?

In the fall, faded inflorescences of hydrangeas must be cut off so that the branches do not break under the weight of snow.

Standard form

Hydrangea paniculata can be grown as a tree - a low standard. Select one of the most developed shoots on a two-year-old plant grown from an apical cutting, and cut off the rest. Then prune this shoot to the strongest bud every year in the spring until it reaches 100 cm in height.

To form a crown in subsequent years, pinch the top of the shoot, and new shoots are removed completely. In the future, weak shoots are cut off annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.

An example of the standard form of paniculata hydrangea

Caring for hydrangea in autumn and preparing for winter

After flowering, caring for hydrangea in the fall consists of removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.

• Tree hydrangea does not need to be covered for the winter; mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
• In the conditions of the Middle Zone, the Moscow region, the North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig up large-leaved hydrangea, replant it in pots and bring it into the house.
  Since this species can be grown in areas where the temperature in winter is not lower than -23.5 °C. The exception is some modern winter-hardy varieties, mentioned in the “trimming” section.
• In more southern and warmer areas, you can get by with hilling and mulching.

Preparing for winter and covering hydrangeas

Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and damping off.

Because leaves and flowers large leaf hydrangea die from light frosts at night; preparations for winter begin in mid-late October (after the first frost).

• Garden paniculata and large-leaved hydrangea must be covered for the winter.

1. To do this, the bush is covered with earth, and the tree trunk circle is mulched with rotted manure, pine needles or peat.
2. Then the stems are bent to the soil and covered with sawdust, spruce branches or dry leaves. And a box (box) is placed on top of the bush.
3. After graduation spring frosts(April) the winter shelter is dismantled and pruning is done.
4. It is better to carefully tie a large bush and make a frame shelter over it (“hut”) 8-12 cm higher than it and pour dry leaves inside it.

Preparing hydrangea for winter Sheltering hydrangeas for the winter Top layer of winter cover for hydrangeas

During short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or double layer films.

Shelter for large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region

1. In the fall, before night frosts arrive, cut off all the leaves from the bush. If you leave them, the flower will begin to rot. Leave only flower buds at the tips of the branches, a maximum of two leaves protecting them.
2. Tie all the branches on the bush, 3-4 pieces of approximately the same size, into separate bundles with elastic material (elastic band, tights, strips of fabric).
3. Bend the bundles as low as possible to the soil and secure with metal brackets (electrodes, thick wire). You need to bend the hydrangea to the ground carefully so as not to damage the shoots. In some varieties they become very lignified and it is better to bend them down gradually, starting with a slight slope.
4. Before the start of cold weather (mid-November), cover the hydrangea with any non-woven material(burlap, agrofibre).
5. Before the onset of severe frosts, remove the cover and cover the flower with dry peat, compost or leaf soil. The base of the bush is less afraid of frost than the fragile tips of the shoots, so it is sprinkled with very little.
6. Place arcs over the plant and pull the covering material again, and place a piece of film on top so that the ends remain open and there is no high humidity inside the winter shelter.

Shelter for the winter of young hydrangea

Young seedlings are not pruned, but are simply brought into the house for the winter in pots or covered with earth and additionally covered for the winter with an 11-16 cm layer of peat, dry leaves, pine needles or sawdust.

When can you open hydrangeas after winter?

In spring, you need to remove the winter cover from the hydrangea at the appropriate time to prevent the shoots from damping off.

1. In mid-March, remove the film and covering material, rake out the peat or soil and cover again with burlap.
2. In early April, when the night frosts end and stable warmth sets in, remove the cover from the large-leaved hydrangea completely.

Approximate dates for the Moscow region are indicated.

Winter hardiness of hydrangea

Now large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in central Russia and in the Moscow region, the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to different microclimates.

The plant can withstand temperatures down to -23 °C, and the most winter-hardy are tree, paniculate and ground cover hydrangeas.

The plant's winter hardiness increases if it receives a sufficient amount of water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes it is still affected powdery mildew, spider mites and aphids (usually in closed ground).

1. HOW TO FIGHT Powdery Mildew? INSTRUCTIONS, PRODUCTS AND FUNGICIDES.
2. HOW TO FIGHT APHIS? RULES OF FIGHT AND THE BEST DRUGS!

Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What to do?

We will list the most common reasons for the lack of flowering.

1. Deficiency or excess of nutrients, especially nitrogen. With excessive feeding, especially with organic fertilizers, flowering is very difficult to achieve. Apply nitrogen only during the active growing season (April - May).
2. Improper pruning or winterization. The plant blooms on last year's shoots (upper buds). They often suffer from winter cold and are sometimes removed if over-pruned. If you have a large-leaved hydrangea, then read how to prune it correctly - the “Pruning” section.
3. Excessive direct sunlight. Diffused light is ideal for hydrangea, but if it grows in a sunny place without shading in the midday heat, flowering deteriorates and is shortened.

How to speed up hydrangea flowering?

To make the bush bloom faster, spray it as soon as the inflorescences become 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg/liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more widespread and decorative flowering.

How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?

The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil and the ability to accumulate aluminum.

Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g/10 liters of water). To change color, you need to carry out 3-4 waterings every 12-15 days. Therefore, they begin to water 50-70 days before flowering.

After this, white or pink flowers(slightly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to use it carefully. The price of 100 grams of alum is about 30-50 rubles.

• If you want to dry hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, cut them off immediately after all the flowers bloom. Tie into small bundles and hang with flowers down in a dark place to dry.
• Hydrangea can be grown at home as a potted plant. In the fall it sheds its leaves, for the winter it is cut off and moved to a cool place (+4-6), and in late February - early March it is placed in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out open air and leave until September.
• Experts advise planting ground cover species in the tree trunk: sedum, mossy saxifrage and others.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

1. PROPAGATION OF GARDEN HYDRENSA: ALL WAYS!

2. TYPES AND BEST VARIETIES OF HYDRENSA WITH PHOTOS AND NAMES!

We wish that flowers lift your spirits and make you a little happier!

Common name "hydrangea" these plants were received 300 years ago in honor of the princess who bore that name. The “princess” species with paniculate inflorescences produces a wonderful fragrance during the flowering season.

They smell exactly the same paniculate hydrangeas at home, in Japan, China and Sakhalin, where they grow as perennial deciduous bushes and trees up to three meters high.

Thanks to painstaking and lengthy selection, frost-resistant plants with luxurious, white and pink, flowering.

Varieties that can withstand thirty-degree cold weather develop successfully and bloom profusely in the open ground of the middle zone.

Outdoor care

Selecting a location

Adult plants of this species do not tolerate transplantation well, so the place in which the seedling will grow and develop must be permanent.

The landing site must be protected from strong winds And well lit; light shading possible.

The landing site should not be in danger of layers of snow falling off the roof: fragile wood will not withstand the additional load.

Priming

The soil should be slightly acidic, moderately loose and sufficiently nutritious.

Its composition can be as follows: peat, humus, turf, leaf soil and sand in equal quantities.

They also use an “equal” mixture of peat, humus and garden soil.

Landing

The best time for planting in open ground is spring. Bushes that have overwintered in the ground can be planted immediately after the soil has thawed, while greenhouse bushes that have leaves can only be planted in late spring, after the frosts have ended.

The size of the planting hole should provide sufficient space for the growth of the root system of the seedling. Typical sizes are from 0.5 to 0.8 meters in length and width. The depth may be slightly shallower, since the roots of paniculate hydrangeas grow wider rather than deeper.

If the soil is clayey, a drainage layer of pebbles, expanded clay, brick or ceramic scrap is laid on the bottom.

Sandy soils, on the contrary, are compacted with a layer of clay at the bottom of the planting hole.

If groundwater stand high, landing on a hill is required.

A layer of soil mixture and a carefully straightened, moistened root system are placed in the prepared planting hole.

Add soil, carefully compacting it. As a result the root collar should be flush with the soil surface– but not deeper.

Water then the surface of the earth is mulched peat chips or crushed bark. This last operation is necessary to ensure that the soil under the bush retains moisture longer.

Watering

Optimal irrigation the water should be soft, the ideal option is to water with rainwater.

Water from the water supply network should be well settled and warmed up, and from time to time it is useful to add a small amount lemon juice or vinegar.

Paniculate hydrangea, unlike many other species of this plant, is relatively drought-resistant, but in dry summers systematic, abundant watering is required.

Top dressing

The plant responds well to mineral fertilizing complex for heathers, rhododendrons and azaleas. The best option – special mixtures designed specifically for hydrangeas. They can be used from time to time supplement with organic compounds.

The timing of fertilizer application takes into account the main phases of growth and development:

• spring feeding promotes the formation of young shoots;
• June promotes abundant formation of buds;
• summer, during the heyday, prolongs flowering and is carried out twice a month. Potassium and phosphorus components should be added to these fertilizers, and the nitrogen component should be reduced.
• Autumn, before the dormant period, consists of superphosphate and potassium sulfate.

Trimming

These fast growing bushes can and should prune in both autumn and spring, since flower buds open on the shoots of the current year.

Moreover, heavy pruning up to the level of four to six or even up to two or three kidneys stimulates the mass formation of powerful shoots with large inflorescences.

Thoughtful pruning also helps form this hydrangea as attractive trees.

In this case, a vertical leading shoot and 4-5 lateral shoots are selected on a young plant, the remaining shoots are cut out, the remaining lateral shoots are pinched and the “leader” is allowed to grow 1-1.5 meters.

After this, its top is cut off, stimulating the formation of skeletal branches of the crown, and the lateral “support” is removed.

How to cover for the winter?

Adult panicle hydrangeas do not need winter shelter, but young plants better bend to the ground And cover with spruce branches.

For mature bushes having fragile wood, heavy snowfalls are dangerous.

To prevent the branches from breaking off, they are tied together and attached to a reliable support.

Bloom

The abundant flowering of fragrant “panicles” begins in mid-summer and continues until autumn

Coloring inflorescences depend on their age (the older, the pinker) and on the acidity of the soil: Flowers that are white in neutral soil take on pink hues in acidic soil..

This property is widely used, especially since acidified, soft the water is flowing for the benefit of plants.

Some varieties do not form at a young age lush inflorescences , however, with age, flowering intensifies and reaches the proper forms.

Blooming “panicles” last a long time when cut. Even when dried, they retain their shape, color and partly their aroma.

Mandatory pruning all inflorescences before the first heavy snowfalls, since heavy snow caps on these “brooms” will create a load that may become unbearable for fragile branches.

Reproduction

Paniculata hydrangea seeds often do not ripen in middle lane, and their germination lasts no longer than a month. That's why they reproduce it vegetatively: layerings and cuttings.

Reproduction by layering. In spring or late summer, bend a suitable branch to the ground, fix it in the middle, slightly deepen it and dig it in this place. The top of the branch is tied to a support to give it a vertical position. Within a year, the buried part forms a sufficient root system, after which the new plant can be separated from the mother plant.

Propagation by cuttings And. This method has two optimal periods: spring, in which cuttings are prepared from waste after pruning, and summer, June.

• Spring cuttings 3-5 internodes are cut from selected branches, previously kept in water for two to three days. The lower sections are treated with a root formation stimulator and planted in a mixture of sand and peat, buried to about two-thirds of the length. The planting is covered with plastic film, moistened, ventilated and kept at a temperature of 14-17 degrees. Rooting usually occurs within a month.
• Summer cuttings- a riskier material for rooting, since at this time the plant tissues contain much less moisture. However, the period from June 10 to June 15 is considered the most successful for this type of breeding. The material for ten-centimeter cuttings is young shoots without flower buds in the lower part of the bush. They are broken out with a “heel” and the core at the fracture is treated with a root formation stimulator. Save 3-4 top sheets, and the lower ones are removed. Planted in the ground and covered; maintain humidity, ventilate and, until the first new shoots form, protect from direct sunlight. Rooting usually takes 20-30 days.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea in a site with optimal conditions for it is resistant to diseases.

If the soil is limed or oversaturated with humus, the plant may develop chlorosis, in which the leaves, with the exception of the central vein, become yellowish-light.

In this case, watering is carried out potassium nitrate solution with a concentration of 4 g/l, and after 3 days - ferrous sulfate solution the same concentration.

Downy mildew, in which dark, oily, gradually spreading spots form on the leaves and stems, affects hydrangea at a temperature of 18-20 degrees in combination with high atmospheric humidity.

An effective remedy for this disease is spraying with copper-soap solution: 15 g of copper sulfate and 150 g of green soap per bucket of water.

Gray rot, which also develops in summer at high air humidity, requires removal of affected leaves and shoots and treatment of the bush fungicides.

If air humidity is low, they can settle on the plant. aphids and spider mites , which can be removed with soapy water.

However, the most effective way in such cases is to use systemic insecticides.

As a preventive measure, you should get rid of weeds that serve as a haven and breeding ground for these pests.

Paniculata hydrangea is one of the most unpretentious and hardy “princesses” of open ground. She withstands not only winter cold, but also significant atmospheric pollution.

Suitable landing place easy care and sufficient watering will ensure long-term, perennial, fragrant flowering of these bushes and trees in open ground conditions in the middle zone.

Photo

See photos of paniculata hydrangea below:

Useful video

Watch a video about planting and care:

Hydrangea, planting and care are of no small importance when growing, since a poorly chosen place and soil composition soil can lead to disease and poor development, in some cases death. In addition, you need to properly care for the shrub after planting in order to achieve lush flowering and healthy growth...

Site selection and soil preparation

When to plant hydrangea? The best time for planting is spring, when the ground thaws, the buds have not yet bloomed, and autumn - in September. When choosing a place for an ornamental foliage plant, keep in mind that it is better to plant hydrangea in the shade or partial shade, since bright sun causes slow growth, as a result of which the inflorescences become smaller.

Some types of hydrangea can be grown in open, sunny areas, but require plenty of watering. It is advisable to protect young shrubs from bright sun and high winds. It is not recommended to place under trees that absorb water strongly.

The soil for hydrangea should be well-drained and moist, consist of a balanced mixture of humus, leaf soil, peat crumbs, river sand(2:2:1:1). Regardless of the type and variety of hydrangea, remember that lime in the soil negatively affects development. The soil should have a Ph level of approximately 5.0.

Planting hydrangeas in open ground

In the northern regions of the country, it is preferable to plant hydrangea in open ground in the spring; in the southern regions, including Kuban, the procedure is carried out in the fall. It is recommended to arrange a landing hole for beautiful bush, the dimensions of which are 0.4 m in diameter and 0.4-0.5 m in depth. When planting, be guided by the size of the root system; if it is too large, increase the volume of the hole. It is worth noting that the roots of hydrangea are quite branched.

choosing a location and planting hydrangeas with a closed root system - pictured

It is necessary to add the prepared soil mixture into the hole and make a small mound, on which the seedling is then carefully placed and the roots are straightened, backfilled without deepening the root collar, which should be flush with the soil. A slight deepening is acceptable, but not more than 20-30 mm; too deep a planting can subsequently lead to rotting of the neck.

The soil in the tree trunk area must be compacted well. Watering hydrangeas after planting is mandatory; it is necessary that the water penetrates well to a root depth of 30-40 cm. It is better to water in a hole next to the plant.

Fertilizing and mulching as the basis of care

To retain moisture after planting permanent place, the hydrangea is mulched in the tree trunk circle. Mulch also inhibits the growth of weeds and protects the roots from overheating. Peat chips, wood chips or bark are used as mulching material, placing a uniform layer of 8-10 cm.

The mulch will decompose over time and become part of the soil, slightly acidifying it. It is best to lay mulch late spring, at a time when the earth has already warmed up well, but is still wet.

watering hydrangeas - pictured

In order for the shrub to grow well and delight with abundant flowering, garden hydrangea is fertilized when planting, then in the spring in the third decade of May or in early summer - early June. Use a solution of mullein or chicken manure diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Don’t forget to fertilize with a complex of mineral fertilizers or add at least the most basic components - 20 grams of superphosphate, 10 grams of potassium nitrate and urea. Subsequent feeding of hydrangea is carried out at intervals of 17-20 days and ends at the end of July, so that the young shoots have time to become lignified by the winter period.

For strong and flexible shoots ornamental shrub watered with a solution of weak potassium permanganate Pink colour. Besides, in garden stores Special fertilizers for hydrangea are sold, which contain magnesium and iron necessary for the plant.

mulching hydrangeas wood chips- on the picture

Paniculate hydrangea, large-leaved and ground cover mostly have pinkish, cream colors, which can be changed if desired. The color of hydrangea is directly determined by the acidity of the soil. If the soil has a slightly alkaline reaction, the flowering will be pink and crimson; on acidic soils, hydrangea blooms with blue flowers.

To obtain blue flowers in alkaline soil, the bush is watered with solutions of iron salts. To get a more intense blue color under the hydrangea, you should bury rusty metal cans.

Pruning hydrangea - continue to care

Do I need to prune hydrangeas and how to do it? In order for the care to be correct, it is necessary to remember that pruning of large-leaved, serrated, prickly, Sargent, liana-shaped, oak-leaved hydrangeas is carried out taking into account the fact that flowers appear on the shoots of the second year, which means that you need to cut off old branches and weak ones to strong buds.

Pruning paniculata and tree hydrangea involves removing old and faded shoots, which are also weak. At the same time, experienced gardeners do not recommend removing a large number of shoots at the same time; it is better to spread out the procedure for a year or two so that the plant does not lose strength and does not die from excessive cutting operations. As a rule, the main branches are not touched; only those that are bad and grow inside the bush are cut off.

autumn pruning hydrangeas - in the photo

Hydrangea can be trimmed in spring and autumn, but it is preferable to autumn period, since sap flow slows down, and cutting will help lush flowering in the spring. During the spring months, improper pruning can slow down growth and delay flowering. In addition, in the spring, processes in the bush begin to actively start; juice is released when pruned, so be careful not to harm the plant. In spring, pruning is best done as early as possible, before the buds swell and constant warmth sets in.

Pruning hydrangeas for the winter is carried out as usual, with only one difference - it is better not to touch young shrubs and let them overwinter without surgical intervention, otherwise you risk ruining the plant. Hydrangea, planting and caring for which is not at all difficult, will certainly delight you with its lush flowering if you suddenly decide to grow unpretentious plant in your garden.

Gotensias: photos on the topic

Large-leaved hydrangea, planting and care

Hydrangea is a lush blooming shrub with unusually delicate and beautiful flowers, reigning in the garden from spring to late autumn. That is why it is very popular among gardeners. In order for hydrangea to become a real decoration of the site and delight the eye with its flowering for as long as possible, it should be provided with proper care at all stages of development: from planting to shelter for the winter.

Common types of hydrangeas and their characteristics

Hydrangea belongs to the genus of flowering plants (lat. Hydrangea), allocated to a separate family Hydrangeaceae (lat. Hydrangeaceae). The genus consists of more than seventy species, most of which are ornamental shrubs and small trees, less often - lianas.

Garden hydrangea - a wonderful ornamental shrub

They mainly grow in East Asia and Europe. Only a few varieties have adapted to the climatic conditions of our country:

• tree-like;
• large-leaved or garden;
• paniculata.

Tree hydrangea (lat. Hydrangea arborescens)

One of the most popular types among flower growers of Russia. This is due to its abundant flowering, relative cold resistance and unpretentiousness. Mostly there are shrubs from 1 to 3 m in height, with a rounded crown and slightly drooping stems. The flowering period lasts from mid-summer to the end of October. On annual shoots, white or cream-colored flowers are formed, collected in spherical inflorescences with a diameter of 15-25 cm.

Hydrangea tree variety Pink Anabel

Looks great both in single and group plantings: compositions of ornamental shrubs, perennial flowers and trees, hedges. Combines effectively with lilies and daylilies, clematis, roses.

Paniculate hydrangea (lat. Hydrangea paniculata)

Hydrangea paniculata is quite frost-resistant; planting and caring for it is quite simple. This is a fairly large shrub or tree, reaching 3-5 m in height. The shoots manage to become woody in one season, so the plant tolerates negative air temperatures of up to 30°C well and does not need shelter for the winter.

Hydrangea paniculata Limelight

Paniculate hydrangea blooms for a long time - from July to the end of September. The inflorescences are quite large - up to 50 cm, shaped like a pyramid. During flowering, the flowers change color - after the buds open they are green or white, and by autumn they become purple or red.

Large-leaved hydrangea (lat. Hydrangea macrophylla)

A beautiful flowering ornamental shrub, up to 2 meters high. This species does not tolerate low temperatures well, so caring for garden hydrangea is somewhat difficult. Most gardeners do not risk growing it in open ground. But thanks to the efforts of breeders, it was possible to develop varieties that can withstand frosts down to 25 ° C without shelter for the winter, and even lower temperatures when under covering material. These include all varieties of the Forever & Ever and Endless Summer series.

Hydrangea macrophylla Papillon

The peculiarity of this species is that the formation of flower buds occurs both on old shoots and on the current year’s growths, which allows them to bloom almost continuously. The inflorescences of these varieties are medium in size - 20-25 cm, but the flowers are quite large - up to 3.5 cm in diameter, capable of changing color depending on the level of soil acidity.

Rules and place for planting hydrangeas

Delicate hydrangea, which is easy to plant and care for in the open ground, can dilute the palette of flowers blooming in the summer-autumn period and add a touch of aristocracy to any garden. Provided you purchase high-quality seedlings, choose the right location and follow all stages of planting, within 1-2 years the young plant will delight you with its abundant flowering.

Selection of seedlings

From the right choice seedling depends on the plant’s adaptability to the climatic conditions of the area, growth, development, splendor and duration of flowering.

Optimal time to plant hydrangeas

It is believed that best time for planting shrubs - late May or early September. Seedlings purchased and planted in the spring will have time to take root and strengthen before the onset of cold weather, which means they can easily overwinter. But if you want to decorate your palisade with plants with a certain color of inflorescences, then it is best to buy them in summer or autumn - during abundant flowering.

The most convenient time to buy hydrangea seedlings is during flowering.

In spring, seedlings arrive on store shelves with an open root system, in containers. The first thing you need to pay attention to when purchasing is the condition of the roots. Carefully remove the plant from the container along with the soil, and inspect the roots. It is necessary that they are damp, but without mold or rot. It is equally important that the seedling has no signs of disease in appearance, looks healthy and has several shoots growing symmetrically relative to the trunk.

When purchasing planting material in the summer, in June - July, choose plants with bright green, elastic leaves. If they are brown or slightly wilted, then most likely the seedling is infected with bacteriosis. It’s not worth buying it, even if the inflorescences look healthy and fresh.

Selecting a location

The planting area should be well lit or slightly darkened. It must also be reliably protected from exposure to sunlight, wind and drafts. Hydrangea is very moisture-loving, so it is not advisable to plant it next to trees and bushes that require abundant watering.

The crop prefers soil that is light, well-absorbent and retains moisture, nutritious with a significant humus content and with a slightly acidic reaction. Loamy, podzolic or sandy soil is perfect.

Change the color of hydrangea as desired

This plant is capable of changing the color of flowers depending on the acidity of the soil: if it is high, the inflorescences become blue, and if, on the contrary, it is low, they turn pink. The optimal acidity level is 5-6 pH. It can be increased with the help of peat additives or potassium chloride, and reduced with the help of liming.

Hydrangea paniculata planting and care

Regardless of what type of root system - open or closed - the hydrangea was purchased, planting and caring for it in spring and autumn is carried out as follows.

Planting paniculata hydrangea in open ground

• Dig a hole measuring 50*50 cm and the same depth. If there are several seedlings, then the distance between the holes is 1-1.5 m.
• Organize drainage from gravel, crushed stone, broken brick.
• They pour on top fertile soil, consisting of turf soil and sand, peat and humus, mixed in a ratio of 2:1:1:2.
• The bush is planted so that the root collar is at ground level and carefully covered.
• After completing the planting, water and mulch with a layer of peat, at least 6-8 cm.

Features of summer planting

If seedlings are purchased during flowering, it is not necessary to wait until autumn to plant them in open ground. They will quickly take root and adapt to new conditions even in July. Carefully transfer the plant from the pot into the previously prepared planting hole. After that, be sure to create shade for the bush so that the young leaves do not suffer from the scorching summer sun, and water it generously.

Care and cultivation after planting

Caring for hydrangea after planting involves organizing regular watering, timely application of fertilizers, and mulching the soil. Also great importance have pruning and preparation for winter, since it depends on them how profusely and long the bush will bloom.

Hydrangea, care after planting

Watering

Hydrangea loves water very much, so the soil around the bush should never dry out. The plant should be watered weekly; during dry periods you will need 25-30 liters of water per 1 square meter. m. area. After watering, the soil is loosened, weeds are removed and periodically mulched with dry leaves or sawdust; they retain moisture well. It is also recommended to water the bush several times a season with a solution of 1% potassium permanganate or 2% iodine to increase elasticity and reduce the fragility of shoots.

Top dressing

Young plants begin to be fed the next year after planting.

Preparing fertilizers for summer feeding of hydrangea

• In the spring, during the period of strengthening and development of the seedling, per 1 sq. m of planting, apply a mixture of fertilizers consisting of urea (20-25 g), superphosphate (30-40 g) and potassium sulfate (30-35 g).
• During the budding period, another feeding is carried out, adding superphosphate (60-80 g) and potassium sulfate (40-45 g);
• The next two supporting feedings are carried out in the summer: a month after the start of flowering, and another two weeks later. Organic matter is used as fertilizer - a solution of chicken droppings or cow manure (1 kg per 10 liters of water).

Trimming

To get a large and lushly flowering bush, be sure to prune it. But since large-leaved hydrangea lays flower buds on two-year-old shoots, and paniculate and tree-like hydrangeas lay flower buds on annual shoots, they should be pruned somewhat differently.

Removing last year's hydrangea inflorescences

Garden hydrangeas, planted and cared for in the same way as other species, are recommended to be pruned in the spring. In this period:

• healthy inflorescences are shortened by the first strong buds without signs of damage or disease;
• they also trim off the frostbitten tops during the winter;
• completely remove weak and poorly located, protruding and loosely lying branches.

Paniculate and tree-like varieties are pruned according to the classical scheme: last year's shoots are completely removed, leaving one pair of buds. In late autumn, faded inflorescences and non-lignified parts of shoots, which definitely will not overwinter, are cut off from shrubs.

Pruning hydrangea before sheltering for the winter

Hydrangea care and shelter for the winter

It is recommended to cover only the large-leaved species, as it has reduced cold resistance. Tree hydrangea, planting and caring for which is quite simple, as well as paniculate hydrangea - do not require shelter. They can only be lightly covered with garden soil.

First, be sure to remove all thin and intersecting shoots and collect unfallen leaves. Next, the bush is divided into parts, tied, bent to the ground and secured. Covering material (lutrasil, agrospan) is thrown on top and laid thick layer dry leaves.

Hydrangea - planting and care in Siberia and the Urals

Climatic conditions of Siberia and the Urals, where winter temperatures often fall below 35-40 °C and are not suitable for all varieties of hydrangeas. In these regions, only paniculate and tree-like bushes are widespread. But they also require careful handling and careful adherence to all rules when planting and growing.

Hayes Starburst hydrangea tree planting and care in Siberia and the Urals

In order for hydrangea to take root and bloom profusely in Siberia, planting and caring for it must be well organized.

• You should only buy seedlings that have been zoned and grown in specialized nurseries. Required condition- so that the roots of the plant are not overdried, otherwise this will lead to its death after transplantation into the ground.
• The garden area chosen for planting should be well protected from the winds. Building walls, a fence or a hedge can serve this purpose.
• Planting of seedlings should be done only in late spring, when the threat of frost has passed.
• Rooted plants need to be watered generously, especially in summer, which is often dry in these regions. If there is insufficient moisture, hydrangea in the Urals, the cultivation of which will require a lot of effort, can freeze in winter.
• Pruning should be done in early spring. U low-growing varieties For paniculate hydrangeas, the height of the shoots after shortening should be about 10 cm, and for tall and tree-like hydrangeas - 20-30 cm.
• After the onset of frost, the plants should be carefully covered: first, cover the root part with dry leaves, and then cover the bushes with agrofibre.

Bottom line

Thanks to its magnificent appearance With unusually bright and lush flowering, hydrangea can decorate your favorite garden, even if the site is located in the climatic conditions of Siberia and the Urals. The main thing is to properly organize planting and care throughout the growing season.

- a plant of amazing beauty, numbering many species, each of which finds its admirers.

Hydrangea is grown in pots on balconies and used to decorate home and city flower beds.

If you have a space in your home or garden that you want to transform, take a look at this beautiful flowering plant.

Hydrangea paniculata: plant features

Hydrangea paniculata can hardly be called a flower; it is more of a shrub or tree, reaching a height of up to 10 m. It has unusual pyramidal inflorescences about 25-30 cm in length, similar to fluffy panicles.

Hydrangea flowers are sterile, that is, they do not bear fruit. The plant blooms from June to October, changing the color of the inflorescences throughout the season. At first the flowers are creamy white, then pure white, gradually turning into pink. And by the end of flowering, in October, paniculata hydrangea changes its color to reddish with green splashes.

The plant has more than 25 varieties, of which the most common are “Matilda”, “Kiushu”, “Unique” and “Grandiflora”. These varieties have the largest, brightest and most fragrant flowers.

The plant can rightfully be called oriental beauty, since the homeland of paniculata hydrangea is China, Japan and the south of Sakhalin. The flower also takes root well in temperate climate zones, calmly enduring winter cold and summer heat.

Did you know? Hydrangea inflorescences can be used as dried flowers in crafts, ikebana and home decorative compositions. For this inflorescence, you just need to cut it at the stage of flowering when you like the shade of the flowers, and dry them in a suspended state with the cone down. After drying, the inflorescences can be used in winter bouquets.

How to plant hydrangea in open ground

Fans of paniculata hydrangea claim that growing this plant in their own area is quite simple; planting and caring for it do not require special skills. The plant grows quite quickly, inflorescences are born on the shoots already in the year of planting.

Lighting for panicle hydrangea

To plant paniculate hydrangea, you need to choose areas with good light, but it blooms best in partial shade. She also loves the bright sun and grows well under its rays, but then hydrangea flowers lose their unique “chameleon” color, fade and turn pale.

Soil for growing a flower

For good, lush color, planting paniculate hydrangea is recommended on fertile, loamy, red soils. It does not like sandy, calcareous soils and does not do well in neutral ones - the color of the inflorescences fades, and the plant as a whole will be weak.

On acidic soils, hydrangea blooms brightest and best, therefore, if the soil is not acidic enough, you need to add brown peat, sawdust, coniferous land(spruce or pine compost) when planting the plant. A possible option is to plant hydrangeas in tree trunks. ground cover plants: mossy saxifrage, various sedums.

Important! Ash, lime and chalk are contraindicated for all hydrangeas. Alkaline soil can cause leaf chlorosis in the plant.

What should the humidity be for successful growth?

Hydrangea paniculata loves moisture very much, it can even live in marshy soil. Therefore for good growth For abundant flowering and normal functioning of the plant, it needs to provide moist soil within a radius of about 1.5 meters.

Planting paniculata hydrangea in open ground: description of the process

Planting time determines in what year paniculate hydrangea blooms. If climatic conditions allow, you can plant it in early spring (March), then the plant will delight you with its lush color already in the year of planting. In northern regions, it is better to plant when the soil has already warmed up enough (April) so that it takes root well and takes root. It is also possible to plant hydrangea in autumn, but then it will need to be insulated for the winter, and it will bloom the next year.

Hydrangea paniculata seedlings are planted in a permanent place at four to five years of age. Root system the plant grows in width much more than the crown, that is, the place for planting must be prepared based on the size of the root and seedling.

Experienced gardeners who know how to plant paniculate hydrangea correctly , It is recommended to make holes measuring 50x50 cm. But sometimes, with highly developed roots, the depth of the planting hole can reach up to 80 cm. The distance between plants is about 2-2.5 m.

Then up to 3 buckets of water are poured into the hole and left overnight so that the moisture is absorbed into the ground. The next morning you need to fill the hole with substrate from fertile soil, peat, humus and sand in the ratio: 2:2:1:1, and also add a mixture of mineral and organic fertilizers (65 g superphosphate + 25 g urea + 25 g potassium sulfate).

Before planting, you need to slightly trim the roots and annual shoots, leaving only 3-5 pairs of buds. Then the seedling is placed in a hole, pressed down with soil, and mulched with a compost layer and peat.

Tips for caring for paniculate hydrangea in open ground

Hydrangea paniculata is completely unpretentious and can grow even in harsh conditions, such as polluted areas near highways. But in order to get a healthy hydrangea in the garden with large flowering pyramids of different shades, you still need to provide the plant with proper care.

Features of watering paniculate hydrangea

The plant loves an abundance of moisture, therefore, the soil around the bush must be constantly moistened. Especially during hot, dry summers, the soil under the hydrangea should not be allowed to dry out.

The plant needs to be watered once a week, very generously, spending up to 30 liters of water per square meter of soil around the bush. During rainy periods, watering is reduced. It is recommended to add potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) to the water when watering. Also, to preserve moisture in the soil, you need to regularly mulch the soil under the bush.

Did you know? The fact that hydrangea is a very moisture-loving plant is indicated by its name alone. Latin name hydrangea hydrangea translated as “water vessel”: hydor – water and aggeion – vessel.

Plant nutrition

Fertilizer for paniculata hydrangea is applied quite often. Such a fast-flowering shrub requires a lot nutritional components. In autumn - mineral fertilizers, in spring - urea solution (20 g per bucket of water, 2 buckets per plant).

At the beginning of the growing season, the plant will benefit from green fertilizer (for example, from young nettles), diluted with water 1:10. For a two-meter hydrangea you need 1 bucket of solution.

In addition, once every two weeks, when watering, add mullein infusion (3 liters of water are poured into a bucket of manure and infused for three days). Before use, 1 liter of infusion must be diluted in a bucket of water.

During the formation of inflorescences, mineral fertilizer is applied completely twice with an interval of 14-15 days.

How to prune a hydrangea bush

Caring for paniculate hydrangea requires regular pruning of the plant. Inflorescences that survive until late autumn are cut off so that the branches do not break under the snow. Regular pruning in the spring, before flowering, also has a beneficial effect on the lush and long-lasting color of hydrangeas.

Weak shoots and those that hinder the growth of the plant as a whole are removed completely. Shoots that have frozen over the winter are pruned back to healthy wood, and they bloom the same year. Select annual shoots, about ten of the strongest ones, cut them down to 3-5 pairs of buds to form a beautiful bush shape. If pruning is late, the plant develops poorly and may not bloom.

Old bushes can also be rejuvenated by pruning them to the stump. This will make it possible to restore the decorative appearance of the bush in the second year and maintain the possibility further reproduction hydrangeas.

How to preserve hydrangea in winter

Although paniculata hydrangea has good resistance to temperature changes and cold, it is better to take care of its successful wintering in advance. To do this, the roots - the most vulnerable part of the plant - should be carefully covered.