What to make a floor screed from. DIY concrete floor screed

No one major renovation not without installation floor coverings. In this regard, a reasonable question arises: “What is the best way to make a floor screed?”, because the choice of building materials is quite large. We decided to consider the most practical and popular options for mixtures and materials for the construction of screeds.

Floor screed

Functions

Before you make a floor screed, you need to understand why it is actually needed.

To do this, let's list the main functions, using an example of which it will become clear how important and even necessary it is:

• Monolithic reinforced concrete slab, which is obtained by pouring cement-sand mortar onto the reinforcing mesh, is excellent solid foundation for subsequent layers of the floor cake;
• Thanks to the reinforcement, the slab acts as one solid piece monolithic design, which takes the entire load and distributes it evenly over the entire area of ​​the room, and then transfers the force to the load-bearing building structures of the building;
• Often, without a full-fledged concrete floor screed, it is not possible to level the floor surface, and this is a necessary condition for the installation of most modern floor structures and coating laying technologies;
• The screed allows the installation of structures such as heated floors;
• Only with the help of a screed is it possible to create a sufficiently durable and even coating for production and storage facilities with increased floor loads, wheeled vehicles and powerful heavy equipment.

Important! The functions of cement floor screed are so diverse and fundamental that such an important and functional element cannot be neglected. Therefore, concrete and polymer-cement bases are found in almost all modern building structures regardless of their purpose and intended operating mode.

Peculiarities

In order for the one you built building regulations and rules, and also served correctly and for a long time, it is necessary to understand what features are characteristic of this structural element. These features are dictated by the physical processes occurring in the materials that make up this structure.

For convenience, we have compiled a list of the most important and defining characteristics and processes:

• Like any material, concrete stone susceptible to thermal expansion. Due to the unique geometry of the part (flat plate large area), volume changes may occur unevenly, as a result of which cracks and other damage to the product are often observed. For this reason, it is sometimes necessary to perform expansion joints and damping gaps during screed construction;
• The slab has very high compressive strength, but does not tolerate strong bending loads, which can easily break an inelastic product. Therefore, the base under the slab must be well compacted and compacted to avoid shrinkage and other movements that could disrupt uniform support;
• The stone structure that appears after concrete has matured is quite fragile, especially when exposed to inevitable vibrations and uneven forces. Therefore, it must include steel reinforcement, which binds the entire structure and prevents it from falling apart;
• Concrete does not like excess moisture. Moreover, the reinforcement, which is located in the thickness of the concrete slab, will corrode for quite a long time. short term will become completely unusable, which will lead to a decrease in the load-bearing capacity of the entire structure, a decrease in its quality and service life. Therefore, it is necessary to remember about waterproofing measures.

Important! For successful construction, you must remember all of the above features. reinforced concrete structures for gender, since neglect of any of them inevitably leads to serious problems and destruction.

Types of screed materials

Cement-sand mixture

The most popular method of constructing screeds is to form a slab from a mixture of sand and cement with the addition of crushed stone or gravel. Cause– the most reasonable price of materials and repeatedly tested and proven installation technology.

The most commonly used recipe is: to one part of M400 cement add three parts of sifted river sand middle fraction. If the screed is made on a concrete base, then adding gravel is not necessary.

If a critical base is needed (when working on soil or other moving bases), then gravel is added to the solution in an amount equal to equal amount sand.

Advice! A mixture of sand and cement can be bought ready-made, but there is little point in this. Therefore, it is better to cook it yourself, it is not too difficult.

When preparing the solution manually, a sheet of metal or other lining is laid on the floor, onto which a bag of sand and a third of a bag of cement are poured. Then add a bag of sand and cement again, and finally a third bag of sand and the rest of the bag of cement. The resulting pile is mixed with a shovel until the composition is homogeneous.

Then a “crater” is made in the pile of material, into which water is poured. After waiting 10 - 15 minutes, the mixture is stirred, adding water to the consistency of thick sour cream. Now the solution can be used for its intended purpose.

Advice! Better for similar works use a small concrete mixer, it will reduce the labor intensity of the work and increase its speed and productivity. There is no need to buy this tool, as it can now be rented from a large supermarket.

Ready-mixed concrete

If you do not want to prepare the solution yourself, then you should consider using a ready-made mixture. To do this, just order delivery required quantity ready-mixed concrete. This method is relevant for working with large volumes and areas, as well as when working on soil and unstable foundations where a high-strength slab is required.

Important! The advantage of ready-mixed concrete is that this material is prepared at a factory, where it is possible to maintain the recipe as accurately as possible in accordance with SNiP, and it is also possible to add all kinds of additives and plasticizers that improve the quality of the solution and its plasticity, and this makes working with the material easier.

In addition, you can order a concrete pump that is capable of delivering the solution to a fairly large height and pouring it from a hose directly onto the floor surface, which is very, very convenient. This approach greatly simplifies the work and speeds up the screed installation process.

Naturally, this will cost additional money, but often the result justifies such an expense due to shorter deadlines and less labor costs.

Self-leveling mixtures

This technology has many names: self-leveling floor, self-leveling screed, etc. Many people do not understand the difference between a self-leveling floor and a screed based on ordinary cement and sand.

In fact, everything is very simple: the composition of self-leveling floors includes very fine powders and special plasticizers, due to which the solution turns out to be almost liquid and is able to smooth out on its own under the influence of gravity.

These compositions can only be used if concrete base, and this basis must be carefully prepared. Their main advantage is a perfectly flat surface. In addition, the use of self-leveling floors makes it possible to significantly reduce the thickness of the screed, which is very important in apartments and houses with low ceilings, of which there are not so few in our country.

Important! It should be remembered that the load-bearing capacity of such screeds is limited, so they are used as a finishing floor covering. If it is necessary to level out serious differences in level or organize a reliable foundation, then you should not use self-leveling mixtures.

The composition of materials for self-leveling floors varies greatly. Some consist of sand and cement, some include various additives and additives, some - polymer materials. There are mixtures based on epoxy resins, polyurethane and other polymers, and cement and sand are not included in their composition.

Advice! The instructions for installing polymer self-leveling floors with artistic effects are quite complex for untrained installers to do independently, so it is better to invite professionals for such work.

When working on the ground, drainage bedding is used: gravel, crushed stone, sand or broken brick.

Conclusion

Today, for the installation of screeds, you can use various flooring mixtures, which differ in characteristics, cost and scope. We have considered the main options, the study of which will help you choose the right material and construction technology.

In this article on the website we will look at how to properly make a floor screed with your own hands in an apartment, you can see step by step video pouring the screed, respectively, when independent execution Using all the instructions, you can reduce the cost of the work performed in general.

Let's find out what a screed is - it is nothing more than a floor layer (base) on which the finishing floor covering is laid: laminate, linoleum, tiles, etc. The type and further operation of your floor covering will depend on the quality of the screed.

ARTICLES ON THE TOPIC:

Types of screeds

Floor screed in an apartment can be of two types:

1. Monolithic is cement-sand, gypsum (anhydride), self-leveling, etc.
2. Dry or prefabricated from building boards.

The screed must be selected depending on the room. In rooms with high humidity(bathrooms and kitchens) you cannot use gypsum and prefabricated screeds.

Preparatory work

After you have decided what kind of floor screed you will make, you need to prepare the base for pouring. To do this, you need to remove the old floor covering and all loose parts of the base and preferably vacuum it to remove dust from the surface.

Then we cover the base with a primer for better adhesion (Betokontakt is ideal, but a cheaper one is also possible).

For further work you need to find the zero level. To do this you will need a water level or a laser level.

We find the zero level for all rooms of the apartment at once. To do this, place a mark in an arbitrary place at a height of about 1-1.5 m from the floor and then transfer the marks to all the walls in the apartment using a water level.

You should have marks on all walls in all rooms. These marks must be connected with straight lines.

Now we measure the distance from the drawn level to the floor. This measurement must be taken in several places on each wall. The smallest value will indicate that in this place the floor height is maximum.

From the smallest value we subtract the thickness of the screed and measure the resulting length down from the previously drawn level. After connecting all the newly marked marks, a zero level will be obtained for all rooms. This is the level to which the future screed will be poured.

Please note that the thickness of the floor screed cannot be less than 30 mm (exception is leveling with self-leveling mixtures or levelers).

Cement screed is made from one part cement and three parts sand. But now there are many ready-made dry mixtures that just need to be diluted with water and can be used.

Video: do-it-yourself floor screed step-by-step instructions:

Do-it-yourself floor screed technology

The technology for screeding floors in an apartment includes several stages. Ruberoid tape is glued to the walls below so that its upper edge is 15 cm higher than your future screed.

Also upon detection through holes and cracks in the floor, they must be sealed with non-shrink cement (BCC) so that later, when pouring the solution, it does not leak to the neighbors below.

The next stage of pouring is the installation of beacons. All further work depends on the quality and correct installation of the beacons. We use metal T-shaped guides as beacons.

We attach them to the same solution from which we will make the screed. Laying it out in piles. The first beacon should be at a distance of 20cm from the wall. Subsequent beacons are installed parallel to each other, at a distance of 30-40 cm less than the length of the rule.

How longer rule, the smoother the screed will be.

After laying the beacons on piles of mortar, they must be leveled using a level. Alignment should be along the length of the beacon, as well as between all beacons. As a result, the level in all positions should be at zero.

After leveling, wait for the solution to completely harden.

After installing the beacons and the solution has hardened, you can proceed directly to pouring the solution. To do this, mix the solution and pour it between the two beacons, starting from the far edge.

Then, using the rule, we tighten (level) it along the beacons towards ourselves. And so on until the entire floor screed is filled. It is better to do the filling together, since while one is leveling, the other is mixing the next portion of the solution.

And now you have finished pouring the floor screed, but it’s still too early to relax. Now you need to create conditions under which it will harden properly.

It takes 24-28 days for the cement to completely harden and gain strength. To prevent the screed from drying out too early, it must be moistened 2-3 times a day. This should last about two weeks.

You can also cover it with film, then you can moisturize it as needed.

After 5-8 days you will be able to walk on the screed, but it will be completely ready in a month. Speeding up in such matters will not lead to anything good, but on the contrary, you can only ruin all the work done.

Quality checking

After the required time has passed, you can check the quality of the floor screed.

1. Let's look visually - it should be a uniform gray color.
2. Next we look at the evenness of the surface. Using the two-meter rule placed on the floor, we check the size of the gap. According to our standards, the gap should not exceed 4 mm.
3. The third point will be checking for hardness. If the screed has not been withstood much, then, as already mentioned, it may simply crack. We check for hardness by hitting the hammer tangentially.

That's all the main points when pouring a floor screed with your own hands. By following these rules, you will be able to avoid many mistakes, waste of time, and as a result, save your nerves and reduce the cost of apartment renovation.

By the way, information to think about the scale of the work - for a screed with an area of ​​80 m2 you will need about 100 bags of dry mix.

Video instructions on how to make a floor screed:

If you have any questions, complaints or want to leave your positive feedback, you can do so below! Leave your feedback and suggestions in the comments!

If planned big renovation in the apartment, instructions about how to make a floor screed with your own hands with a video on the topic will be extremely useful. Leveling the floor is the most serious and critical step in finishing it. Durability and durability depend on the quality of the work performed. appearance finishing coating.

What type of screed should I choose?

The choice of base for a covering made of any material should be made taking into account the load on the floor, the strength of the floors and the characteristics of the premises where leveling is required. Depending on this, choose one of the types of screed:

1. The base connected to the floor is suitable for leveling the floor in the garage and in rooms with high loads.
2. The screed on the separating layer, or floating, provides for the presence insulating material between it and the ceiling. This type is chosen for rooms where waterproofing, insulation or installation of underfloor heating systems are needed.
3. Compared to concrete mortar, the mixture for semi-dry screed has minimal shrinkage. It can be used under the same conditions as concrete mortar.
4. Dry screed is performed on the principle of using loose and fairly light materials (expanded clay, Knauf loose floor, etc.). The only drawback of this leveling is the impossibility of using it in rooms with high humidity.

Before you start repairs do-it-yourself flooring in an apartment, you need to take care to clean the base from construction waste, dismantle the old screed. When remodeling, it is best to first install gypsum plasterboard partitions, electric installation work, complete the rough finishing of the walls and ceiling. Only after the room has been prepared can you proceed to installing the screed using one of the selected methods.

How to make a screed yourself?

If one of the “wet” methods is chosen (tied, floating), then it should be noted that it takes about three weeks for concrete or a cement-sand mixture to acquire full strength. Only after this will it be possible to continue work related to the installation of flooring. When choosing a semi-dry screed, the time to gain strength is reduced to two weeks, and you can walk on the new subfloor in 2-3 days.

Deciding how to make a floor screed in an apartment, many choose the dry method: leveling the bulk layer and laying the slabs is done with less effort. The technology allows you to use such a screed immediately after installation. Applying the topcoat to the base can begin after completion finishing works indoors without waiting for the moment when the full strength of the concrete solution is achieved.

Installation of screed made of DSP and concrete

Before how to make a concrete floor screed, with a connected method of performing work, the surface of the ceiling should be primed to improve the adhesion of the solution. When making a floating screed, this step is optional, but a number of other works are performed instead:

• laying a waterproofing membrane (polyethylene film);
• installation of damper tape around the perimeter of the room;
• laying a layer of thermal insulation (expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, isolon, etc.);
• reinforcement.

Only after the base is prepared does the process of pouring the screed begin. In order for the floor to be level, you need to install beacons. Are these long slats or special hardware, which need to be laid on mortar supports. Check the horizontalness of each slats using a level. Check that the height of the adjacent beacon matches the height by placing the spirit level on both slats at the same time. If necessary, lower the beacon by pressing it into the solution.

While the solution with installed beacons is setting, you can prepare equipment and materials for pouring the screed:

• cement, sand and crushed stone for concrete;
• rule for stretching the solution;
• shovel;
• concrete mixer or container for manual mixing.

If the overlap is fairly even, then there is nothing easier, how to do cement screed gender. To make it, you need to take 1 part of cement grade M400-M500 and 3 parts of seeded river sand. Add water as needed until you obtain a mass that will not spread on its own.

The concrete mixture is used to fill the base with height differences of more than 5 cm. To obtain concrete, you need to take 3 parts sand and 4 parts crushed stone to 1 part cement. Water is added in a proportion of approximately 0.5 parts to 1 part of the mixture of dry ingredients.

The thoroughly mixed solution should be placed in the far corner of the room and distributed using a rule that should be based on 2 adjacent beacons. You need to stretch a portion of the solution until it forms a layer whose thickness is equal to the height installed beacons. If they were placed correctly and accurately, then the surface of the screed will be perfect. After the solution has hardened for 2-3 days, the wooden slats must be removed and the grooves covered with the same substance, leveling it with a trowel. Metal beacons remain in the body of the screed.

Semi-dry screed

In, how to make a semi-dry floor screed with your own hands, there are practically no differences from the traditional wet method. The difference lies in the amount of water. According to the recommended method, the finished mixture should, when squeezed in your hand, stick together into a lump that retains its shape. No water is released from it.

The proportions of the components are the same as for the DSP. The dry ingredients need to be mixed and placed on a plywood sheet in the form of a slide with a recess on top. Gradually add water to the well and stir the mixture until a sticky lump is obtained. You can also use a concrete mixer for this work.

The setting time for this mixture is about 45-50 minutes. Therefore, you need to quickly distribute part of the solution between the beacons to approximately 2/3 of the height of their installation and compact it. Apply the next layer, which needs to be stretched according to the rule along the beacons, as when installing a concrete screed or DSP. While stretching the mixture, it is compacted.

The laid screed must be sanded immediately, rubbing with a more liquid solution. Close finished floor plastic film and dry for 7-10 days. During this time, the semi-dry mixture will become stronger and stronger, reaching the hardness of ordinary CPS.

Dry floor screed

Despite the use of rather fragile materials in installation (gypsum plasterboard, chipboard, gypsum fiber board, plywood, etc.), the strength of such a base is practically not inferior to concrete. Dry screed can be successfully used to repair floors in a garage or hallway public building. The only limitation is the impossibility of using the dry installation method for installing floors in wet rooms.

A dry screed is constructed according to the floating principle, that is, using a layer of material that insulates the backfill from the walls and ceiling. If it is necessary to insulate the room, you can use various porous layers, which are also used for traditional ways screed installation: mineral wool, EPPS, penoizol, etc. Foam mats are also used for laying water heated floors. The dry screed cake is formed as follows:

• waterproofing;
• damper tape;
• insulation or backfill;
• compensating layer of gypsum fiber board (only for floors with heavy load);
• substrate;
• actual screed of 2 layers sheet material(gypsum board, plywood, etc.).

Before how to make a dry floor screed, the plastic film must be spread on the rough base. Glue edge tape to the walls around the perimeter of the room (it can be replaced by raised moisture insulation edges on the wall). Install beacons in increments of no more than 1.5 m, starting from the walls. Check the horizontal level of the entire floor. After this, you can do different things:

1. Spread mineral wool or other porous material between the beacons. In this case, the lighthouse batten performs the functions of a log, so it must be made of a block required thickness. After laying the insulation, lay sheets of chipboard or other material on the joists, securing them with self-tapping screws. The next layer of sheet material should be oriented so that the slab overlaps the junction of the lower floor elements.
2. Dry screed with backfill is carried out along the beacons. They need to be laid on the poured material and set horizontally to a level. The loose floor from the Knauf company, expanded clay, perlite, slag or other backfill should be stretched as a rule. Remove the beacons and begin laying the leveling sheets, starting from the entrance to the room. You cannot step on the backfill. To move, you need to place islands of GVL debris on it. Lay the sheets as described in point 1. Video instructions from Knauf will tell you how to do this work yourself.
3. If necessary, you can lay 1 layer of gypsum fiber board on the backfill, cover it with porous material and make a screed according to general principles.
4. If the subfloor is not on the ground, then you can pour perlite or vermiculite directly onto the floor. Lay the screed on top in 2 layers.

After the dry screed is completely installed, proceed to laying the floor covering (carpet, laminate, parquet or your own version).

If the type of installation of screeds is chosen correctly, they are successfully purchased necessary materials and the installation technology is followed, the base for the floor in a garage or apartment will be durable and very smooth. It is very easy to lay any floor material on a well-made screed.

Screeding a floor with your own hands is a task that may confront you if you decide to make major repairs in an apartment or private house. It can be fine and rough, for wet and dry rooms, hard and floating, dry, semi-dry and traditional wet. A rough screed is understood as a leveling layer of cement-sand mortar on top of the floor slab; minor unevenness is allowed, since it involves additional leveling in the next step.

A clean screed is finishing layer floor finishing must be perfectly smooth and can serve as an independent covering or as a basis for laying floor coverings (linoleum, laminate, carpet, etc.), as a rule, self-leveling mixtures are used to create it. The main functions of screeds are to level the surface, if necessary, create slopes, impart strength and rigidity to the surface, as well as heat and sound insulating properties. In this article we will tell you how to properly make a floor screed and what its features are for rooms for various purposes.

Types of screeds

Screeds are classified depending on the main material included in their composition. Do-it-yourself floor screed can be concrete, magnesite, anhydrite, asphalt, mosaic, based on gypsum and epoxy resins. Currently, the building materials market offers many various types ready-made dry mixtures with which you can make a floor screed with your own hands.

Screed for wet rooms

For wet rooms, the composition of the screed will be slightly different. Let's look at how to make a floor screed in a bathroom. A necessary condition is to create waterproofing. It is recommended to use as a waterproofing layer modern material– euroruberoid. This roll material laid in 2 layers dry with overlapping joints.

Important! Place the edges of the waterproofing on the wall to a height of 5-7 cm. This will protect the joints of the walls and floor from leaking.

After this, beacons are laid from metal profiles onto the concrete solution strictly according to the level. Mortar for wet rooms is made from three components: sand, cement and a dry waterproofing mixture, which is sold in bags. (for example, the manufacturer Ceresit). The video shows in detail the process of making a concrete screed in a bathroom:

Screed for heated floors

To install a heated floor, a cable or pipes (in the case of a water heated floor) are laid out on the surface, and then filled with a 1:3 cement-sand mortar with the addition of reinforcing additives.

The video shows how to properly make a floor screed for water heating:

Floating screed

This type occurs if the floor slab requires additional heat and sound insulation. The solution is laid on top of the thermal insulation and sound insulation on a special layer (you can use polyethylene film 0.1-0.15 mm thick). The layer performs the function of separating the solution and insulation. For floating screeds, a cement-sand or calcium sulfate solution is used.

It is recommended to use damper tape, which is glued at the junction of walls and floor along the entire perimeter of the room, taking into account protrusions and columns. It protects the surface from cracking during concrete shrinkage, and also increases the sound insulation of the room. The height of the overlap of the tape on the wall is taken in accordance with the total thickness of all layers of the future floor.

Video. Floating floor. Types of solutions, filling methods, nuances, subtleties:

Dry and semi-dry screeds

In the case when it is necessary to carry out repairs in an accelerated time and there is no time for complete drying of traditional wet screed, can be done rough screed semi-dry method. To do this in cement-sand mixture add a small amount of water, sufficient to obtain a loose concrete mass after mixing. It is also necessary to perform reinforcement with the addition of fiber fiber to the solution. After this, the mixture is applied to the base, leveled using the beacon rule, and then the surface is polished. Most quickly and efficiently this technology performed using a mechanized method.

A dry screed is a backfill of dry filler - quartz sand or expanded clay, on top of which plywood is mounted, or chipboard, gypsum fiber board. This technology provides good sound insulation, light weight of the structure, no wet work in the room, and therefore no dirt and no risk of liquid leaking from the mortar into the ceiling. This type of screed is easy to do with your own hands, because... it is easy to manufacture, does not require machine mechanisms, special equipment and special care, however, it is afraid of moisture, and if it gets into the structure, swelling of the floor, deformation of the surface and the formation of unevenness can occur.

Video. Dry floor screed technology. This method is suitable if you need to meet a tight deadline and don’t want to bother with a liquid solution:

Finishing screeds

To install a finishing screed, factory-produced finishing self-leveling mixtures are often used. They come on cement and polymer based. Self-leveling floors are easy to maintain, they form a strong, even and smooth surface, which is easy to clean. Self-leveling floors are divided into types depending on the binder used in their composition. There are methyl methacrylic (MMA), polyurethane, polyurethane-cement, acrylic-cement and epoxy compounds.

Advice! The strength grade of the finishing coating should not be higher than the grade of the rough screed solution on which it is laid. Otherwise, deformation and delamination will occur over time.

Video. Applying a finishing screed using a self-leveling mixture:

Screed laying technology

Let's take a closer look at the design of a traditional wet screed using concrete as an example. Do-it-yourself floor screeding is done using the following tools:

• building level;
• rule;
• beacons (guides);
• drill with a nozzle for mixing the solution;
• putty knife.

Depending on the purpose of the room and the materials used, the technology will vary. Let's look at the stages of this process:

• preparation of the base, primer;
• thermal insulation (if necessary);
• waterproofing (if necessary);
• reinforcement (if necessary);
• placement of beacons (guides) with leveling;
• mixing the solution;
• fill;
• care of the finished surface.

The first step is preparing the base. It must be dedusted, debris removed; if there is dirt and stains of oil, bitumen, they must be removed. If there is an old dilapidated screed, it must be dismantled. After this, you need to treat the surface of the floor slab with a primer using a roller or brush and let it dry for 5 hours. If the premises will have running water and sewer pipes, then you need to route them along the floor.

To insulate a room, you can use expanded clay or expanded polystyrene, the main thing is that the surface of the insulation is rigid. If you do a floor screed with your own hands on a soil base, then first you need to lay a layer of expanded clay, and then a layer of sand, with the obligatory compaction of each layer. For greater effect, it is recommended to moisten with water.

Waterproofing is usually carried out in wet areas (where there are connection points for water and sewer systems). To protect against dampness, waterproofing is also sometimes installed in ground floor rooms and basements.

After this, reinforcement is performed. It is used if the surface is planned to be subjected to heavy loads. For this purpose, reinforcing bars are used, the cross-section of which is selected depending on the planned load (diameter value ranging from 8 to 20 mm), or reinforcing mesh(rod diameter 6 mm). Sometimes plastic reinforcing mesh is used instead of metal ones. Reinforcing mesh will also help to avoid deformation of the concrete layer and cracking in the event of shrinkage of the building. Concrete is a brittle material and does not work well in bending and tension; reinforcement allows you to eliminate these shortcomings and protect the surface from cracks.

After this, the placement of beacons (guides) is carried out. They should be displayed clearly in accordance with building level, because The subsequent evenness of the surface depends on this.

The next step is pouring the solution. When the screed is ready, it is left for some time until it dries completely. During this time, do not forget to take care of the screed by periodically spraying it with water. Concrete slowly gains its strength (within 27 days), it should harden gradually. If it dries too quickly, cracks may form. Therefore, as care, you need to moisten the finished screed with water 2 times a day for a week, and then cover it with plastic wrap and leave for 2 weeks.

Forming screeds on a floor base is, as many believe, a simple matter. What they are very wrong about. Like any construction process, this requires certain knowledge and experience in carrying out this type of work. Therefore, in this article we will understand the question of how to make a floor screed with your own hands step by step.

Source beton-house.com

What is a screed layer

Let's start with this question, because the screed performs several functions. Firstly, the layer of screed mortar is intermediate, that is, it is located between the base of the floor and the finishing coating. Further:

• It helps in leveling floor base horizontally, and in some cases, pouring is done with a slope in the required direction. For example, in showers, washing baths towards the floor drain.
• The screed increases the strength and rigidity of the floor. This is especially important if the latter will be subjected to serious loads.
• Some screed mortars have thermal insulation properties, therefore we can assume that the screed increases the thermal insulation of the floor.
• If a “warm floor” heating system is installed inside the screed, then such a layer begins to work like a large radiator. That is, it collects heat and distributes it over the entire area of ​​the floor base.
• Today, utilities are often laid in the screed layer: electrical cables, pipes for sewerage, cold and hot water supply, as well as heating.
• If the floors are thermally insulated, the screed serves as protection for the insulation from mechanical loads.

Source plitkahelp.com

In some rooms, for example, in garages, screed is the finishing coating. This is where it is laid in one layer. But more often it is a two-layer coating:

• This base layer, which performs both leveling and strengthening functions. This type of screed is called a rough screed, because in the future it will additionally have to be leveled finishing materials: ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware. It is made from concrete mortar made according to the classic recipe.
• Finishing screed. With its help, the floor is made almost 100% flat. Such surfaces are prepared for finishing with laminate, linoleum, parquet or carpet. Here, so-called self-leveling mixtures are used, after application of which the floor base becomes perfectly level.

Self-leveling floor screed Source tirichiamo.it

Types of screeds

Before making floor screeds, you need to understand their varieties. And the separation is carried out whenever possible, the screeds are attached to the bottom layer. The latter is a reinforced concrete floor slab, wooden floors, compacted soil. And more about the types:

• Tied tie. They differ from other varieties in that they are firmly attached to the lower base. This is usually how concrete is poured onto a concrete slab. Here the main role is played by the homogeneity of the two materials, plus their high adhesion relative to each other. In total, a flat base with high strength characteristics is obtained. Important - the bound variety is usually poured onto a dry surface, so it is more often used on the upper floors of buildings and structures.
• With a separating layer. The name itself suggests that a material separating them is placed between the base and the screed. Typically, roofing felt and polymer rolls are used for this. waterproofing materials or bitumen-based mastics. This type is used if the screed mortar is applied to the ground or wooden floor. If the substrate humidity is very high. Or at concrete base gypsum screed is laid. In any case, the screed layer will be separate design, therefore experts recommend reinforcing it first, and secondly pouring it with a thickness of at least 3 cm.

Source ko.decorexpro.com

• Floating floor. This is practically a continuation of the previous version, but in addition to the fact that a separating layer is laid between the two materials, the screed is additionally separated from the walls of the room. For this purpose, damper tape is often used. By the way, when installing heated floors, it is the floating type that is installed, because the temperature effect from the heating system either expands the poured layer or narrows it. Let us add that such a screed is made with a thickness of at least 5 mm and always includes a reinforcing frame.
• Dry. This variety has been used recently in Russia. Essentially, this is a layer of expanded clay that acts as thermal insulation, on which gypsum fiber sheets are laid. The latter are fastened together adhesive composition. The main advantage of such a screed is the quick construction process, plus - no wet construction processes. And two requirements - the load on such a structure should not be large, it can only be laid in dry rooms.

Source zen.yandex.ru

Another classification based on a survey on how to fill a screed. There are also four positions:

• A continuous layer, poured using a wet method. This is a classic that uses a cement-based mortar. It is poured onto the prepared base and leveled, usually along the beacons. The biggest drawback of this method is that you have to wait 28 days after application for the concrete solution to gain its brand strength.
• Semi-dry method. What is needed for this type of floor screed. Everything is the same as in the classic recipe, only as much water is poured into the mixture as is necessary to mix the cement. This applied layer dries quickly - one day is enough. And you can load it in a week. The only negative is that you need the exact amount of water that is added to the dry mixture. This is not so easy to do.

Source brestbelar.flagma.by

• Continuous from self-leveling mixtures. This technology is also “wet”. It has already been mentioned above. In essence, this is a finishing leveling layer no more than 2 cm thick. How to make a floor screed from self-leveling mixtures will be discussed below in a separate section.
• Dry technology. We will also talk about it.

And one more point that is included in the classification section. All screed mortars are divided into two types, which are based on two binding materials: cement and gypsum. There are other varieties, for example, bitumen or magnesium, but they are housing construction do not apply.

Cement screeds are highly durable and easy to handle. negative impact water, have a high service life. Cons - long drying process, during which they shrink.

Gypsum is not inferior to cement in strength and durability. When dry, they do not shrink, but they are afraid of water. But, as practice shows, both builders and home craftsmen give their preference to cement. It's easier to work with them, they high strength, which is very important for floor structures.

Source feniks-arenda.ru

Screed construction technology

So, having understood the concept of what a screed layer is, and also having examined its varieties, we move directly to the question of how to make a floor screed with your own hands. The whole process is divided into four main stages:

1. Preparing the base.
2. Installation of beacons.
3. Preparation of the solution.
4. Filling the screed.

Preparing the base

Complexity preparatory process depends on what kind of foundation needs to be prepared. For example, soil:

• soil is removed;
• a layer of coarse sand is poured in, which is leveled and compacted;
• the thickness of the compacted sand is 30 cm minimum, if the layer is thick, then compaction is carried out thin layers separately;
• coarse crushed stone with a minimum thickness of 10 cm is poured in, which is also leveled and compacted.

If the base is a reinforced concrete floor slab, then:

• The gaps between the slabs are sealed repair solutions: cement-sand;
• after drying, it is necessary to clean the concrete floor;
• then apply primer deep penetration, which will not only increase the adhesive properties of the base, but also strengthen its outer layer;
• the primer must be applied in two layers: the first must dry before applying the second;
• if necessary, the floor is covered with waterproofing material.

Source it.decorexpro.com

If the floor is wooden. This is a rare situation, because it is easier and cheaper to level wooden floors with plywood, chipboards or OSB. But if the need arises, then:

• repairs are being made wooden floors: rallying, sealing cracks, fastening loose floorboards to joists, etc.;
• spreads over wooden base waterproofing roll material;
• waterproofing strips are laid overlapping each other with an offset of at least 15 cm, the ends of the material are placed on the walls to a height of 10 cm;
• Sometimes double waterproofing is required, in which strips of material are laid perpendicular to each other.

Sometimes there are situations when the floor is already old screed present. Experts advise that regardless of its quality condition, it is better to dismantle the old screed layer.

Source ro.decorexpro.com

Installation of beacons

Before pouring the floor screed, the dowels are placed. For a garage, the use of beacons is not necessary, but for residential premises where finishing will be applied, this is necessary stage. The thing is that deviations of the floor plane from the horizon in the amount of 3 mm per 1 m of length are not noticeable within the same room. And this is the norm. But on the scale of a whole house, this can grow into several centimeters, which is no longer acceptable.

That is, if you are faced with the task of how to properly make a floor screed in a private house or apartment, then you need to fill it taking into account the evenness not only in each room separately, but taking into account the evenness of the entire area of ​​the house. It is clear that if the floors in all rooms are leveled.

Source tehnikaportal.ru

How to do it exactly right. This will require laser level, he is also a plane builder, which today has ceased to be a luxury. It is installed on a tripod so that the laser beam hits all or most of the rooms. At the required level, notes are made on the walls with a marker and marked with a laser. Then the device is brought into each room, where it is placed according to the already applied marks. A perimeter of rays is formed on the walls along which the screed will have to be poured. To avoid using the laser level later, the applied beams are used to mark lines on the walls, which are called basic lines.

Now, as for the lighthouses. Exists great amount application of this technology, the end result of which is always one hundred percent. In this article we will consider one of the simplest options.

To do this, you will have to purchase a PM-10 brand beacon profile, which is used for applying plaster, but is also successfully used for pouring screed. The lighthouse is made of galvanized steel and has a durable structure.

Source vektorsnabrb.ru

How to install beacons:

• The first thing you need to know is that leveling the screed mortar is done according to the rule. Therefore, the beacons are placed at a distance of the length of the leveling tool. But more often this distance is 1 m. It is important here that the rule applies to at least two beacon profiles.
• The beacons are fastened using gypsum or cement mortar, which is distributed in rows at the place where the beacons are installed. Gypsum hardens quickly, but inside the screed layer it will act as a foreign material, which will reduce the strength of the screed material being poured. Cement will take a couple of days to dry, but it's better than plaster.
• The profile is laid on the slides cement mortar and is leveled by recessing them to the level of the applied perimeter of the base lines. First, one end of the profile is set in this way, then along the entire length on the slides. In this case, a construction corner and a laser level are used.

Source betontransstroy.ru

In fact, this method of placing beacons has several subtle points that affect the quality of the final result.

Screed reinforcement

How necessary is a reinforced frame, because this structure inside the screed layer does not increase it bearing capacity. The main task of the frame is to increase the tensile strength of the screed. That is, so that it does not crack during operation. The only option when reinforcement is not required is if a fastening type is used to level the floor base.

In all other cases, the reinforced frame is necessary element screeds. Namely:

• if the latter is installed on heated floors;
• if floating screeds form;
• if the concrete solution is poured over the ground;
• if the thickness of the poured layer exceeds 5 cm;
• if heavy objects are installed in the room.

As for the reinforcing frame itself, it is a mesh made of wire or reinforcement. The latter are used in rooms where heavy loads will be applied to the floor. For example, in garages.

Today, nets are a huge assortment. For ties, products made from 2.5-6 mm wire, grade VR-1, are used. Grids can have square or rectangular shape with side dimensions of 50-200 mm.

Attention! The thicker the wire and smaller size cells, the greater the load the reinforced frame will withstand. It is recommended to choose meshes with notches on the wires.

Source kayabaparts.ru

And one more point regarding the location of the reinforcing frame. If the screed is thin (up to 5 cm), then the mesh product is laid so that it is in the middle of the screed layer in thickness. If the screed is thick, then the mesh is placed in the lower third of the layer.

As for laying the reinforcing frame, previously they used pieces of broken bricks or concrete, broken glass and others hard materials. Today, special ones are used for this plastic clips. They are presented on the market in a huge range of sizes and shapes. So choosing the required type for the mounting height and wire diameter is not difficult.

Plastic stands for reinforcing frame Source dompodrobno.ru

And one moment. You cannot lay the reinforced frame on the floor and then attach heated floor pipes to it. We must do everything the other way around. That is, the pipes were laid on the floor, secured to it, then a reinforcing mesh was laid on top of the clamps. And only then the screed is poured.

Video description

The video shows alternative way raising the reinforced frame above the base floor:

Fiber concrete

This construction material today it is often used to form screeds. It is laid without constructing a reinforcing frame, because elements have already been added inside it, which provide strength, impact resistance, and cracking resistance. This is a regular screed mixture containing fibers from different materials. Eg:

steel fiber is pieces of wire with a diameter of 0.2-1.2 m and a length of up to 6 cm;

• fiberglass;
• basalt;
• polypropylene.

Video description

In the video, a specialist talks about what fiber-reinforced concrete is:

Preparation of the solution

The next stage on the topic of how to make a floor screed with your own hands in a private house or apartment is mixing the screed mortar. Until recently, it was made from individual ingredients, which were also purchased separately. Today everything has been simplified, that is, you can purchase a ready-made dry mixture, dilute it with water to a homogeneous consistency and start pouring. The whole process is described on the packaging.

Self-preparation is sometimes also used if it is necessary to pour a thick concrete screed over the ground. For this purpose it is used classic recipe mixtures that include:

• 1 part cement M500;
• 2 parts sand;
• 3 parts crushed stone;
• 0.5 parts water.

Do not mix the solution with shovels. This is no longer modern, and the quality of such a solution may not meet the requirements. The best option– mixing in a concrete mixer with the addition of plasticizers, which increase the strength of the solution by 20-40% and frost resistance by 50%.

Video description

The video shows how to mix a floor screed solution with your own hands:

Laying the screed

So, let's move on to the main question of the article - how to properly make a floor screed. This stage takes the least time when compared to preparation. The process itself is not that complicated, although there are subtleties:

• The finished solution is poured onto the floor between the mounted beacons.
• Spread evenly with a trowel.
• Next, the mixture draws on itself as a rule. In this case, the instrument must be placed on two or more beacons. The rule is that when pulling the solution, it moves from side to side.
• If a hole or depression has formed on the leveled surface, then a solution is added to it with a trowel, which is also drawn out at this place using the rule.

Source zen.yandex.ru

The process must be continuous and start from far corner, moving to the front door. If the screed is laid in two layers, the first one should give maximum evenness without gloss. It forms after applying the second layer.

If pouring is carried out on a heated floor heating system, then several nuances must be taken into account:

• heating pipes must be firmly attached to the base floor;
• the latter must be cleared of debris and primed;
• the heating system will be filled with cold water;
• the beacons can not be dismantled, but left inside the screed;
• if there is such a need, then they are removed after 3-5 days and the seams are sealed with the same solution as the screed.

Video description

The video shows how to make a screed warm floor:

Dry screed technology

Briefly about how to properly make a dry screed:

1. Damper tape is installed along the walls.
2. A layer of expanded clay is poured. It is leveled and compacted.
3. Special gypsum fiber boards are laid. They are two-layer with special grooves along the edges, which serve as elements of the locking connection.
4. The planes of the locking connection are treated with an adhesive composition, which acts as a fastener.
5. The main task of the work manufacturer is to install the slabs in a horizontal plane, for which each element being laid must be checked for horizontal position. For this, a regular building level is used.

Today this technology is often used, but instead of GVL, our domestic craftsmen give their preference to OSB boards, moisture-resistant plywood or chipboard, as well as thin asbestos-cement boards.

Video description

The video shows how to construct a dry screed from the Knauf company:

Briefly about the main thing

You know what you should know House master, who decided to make a floor screed with his own hands. The poured layer should last as long as the house itself. Or until next repair, least. Because repairing screeds is not easy and very expensive. Therefore, perhaps it is worth shifting this simple process onto the shoulders of the masters.