How to make railings for an external staircase. External and internal stair railings for home and garden

Railings are an indispensable attribute staircase design. They perform the function of a protective element that ensures the safety of movement along the span. Railings come in a variety of shapes and materials; they can be simple in appearance or made in an unusual, original style. This enclosing element can be a striking design addition to the interior and become a chic decoration for any home.

Having studied various photos railings for stairs, you can see the variability of these structural elements and choose the option that is most suitable for your case.


It's easy to make handrails for stairs with your own hands. We’ll try to figure out how to make fencing elements for a staircase structure ourselves, what material is best to use, and where to start the installation process.

Material selection

First you need to understand what materials the railings are made from. flight of stairs. The following fencing elements are the most popular.

Aluminum. If you prefer railings made of aluminum, then making them yourself will be difficult. Basically, such products are sold ready-made, and all you have to do is make them correct calculations, buy required amount fencing elements, assemble them with your own hands and familiarize yourself step-by-step installation railing for stairs.

Chrome plated. They, just like the previous ones, are sold in construction stores in ready-made form, so to install them yourself you need to perform the steps listed above.

Forged. Such fences look incredibly beautiful and interesting, but making forged railings at home is a rather difficult task.

Hot forging can only be carried out in a specially equipped room, as regards cold forging– you can do it at home, but you need to know the basics of this process and have everything in your arsenal necessary tools.


Made from of stainless steel. Such railings are very wear-resistant, strong and reliable, but in order to install them yourself you will need welding and metal cutting skills.

Wooden. This is the most popular material used in the manufacture and installation of handrails on your own. Let us dwell in more detail on wooden fencing elements and provide the reader with brief instructions on how to make wooden railings.

Wooden stair railings

Wood has long been used to create railings; the main advantages of this material: wood allows you to create a fence of any stylistic orientation, shape, with interesting carvings and ornaments. In addition, there are many options for decorating wooden fences; they can be painted, varnished, etc.

For novice craftsmen, it is better to start with just such a railing; if you have no experience in carpentry, you can choose a simple design; due to its texture, wood will in any case look interesting and aesthetically pleasing in the interior.

Let's try to figure out how to properly make a railing for a staircase made of wood. First, decide on the type of tree, whether it will be beech, pine, oak, birch or something else. The costs incurred for manufacturing, the quality of the railings, their resistance to sudden temperature changes, susceptibility to rotting, and ease of processing will depend on the selected species.

Secondly, familiarize yourself with the main parts stair railings. Any railing will contain the following elements: handrails, posts, balusters, cabinets.

Particular attention should be paid to balusters, because it will depend on them appearance flight of stairs. You can make them in the form of neat columns, if you can use metalworking equipment - carve various patterns and ornaments on the surface.


Hand cutting can turn these structural elements into a real work of art; the scope for creativity is incredibly wide; craftsmen carve figures of people, animals and other incredible compositions from bars.

After preparing all the necessary elements, the question arises of how to install the railings on the stairs. Wooden figured posts can be attached directly to the steps, using grooves or metal pins, while flat balusters (presented in the form of thin boards) are best mounted on a special beam located 10 centimeters above the bowstring.

In this case, the handrail, beams and pedestals will form a frame, where it is necessary to place flat balusters. The distance between the crossbars in both cases should be no more than 15 centimeters.

This is, in general terms, the process of adding enclosing elements to a flight of stairs. Having decided to install the railings, evaluate your strengths, choose a suitable project, calculate how many materials you will need for the work, prepare the necessary tools and begin this interesting activity.

Photo of railings for stairs

Fences for balconies and terraces are not always provided during their construction. Sometimes, the need for a fence on the terrace arises later.

For example, you have small children, you need to protect open terrace from the wind or you just decided to change the color of the recreation area and area near the house or in the country.

Terrace fencing options

To begin with, you should understand what types of fencing are available for terraces and balconies in general and for wooden terraces in particular:

1. By appearance

  • closed, designed to protect the veranda from the wind or prying eyes.
  • open - bearing a decorative rather than functional load.

2. By material

The choice of material depends on the overall design of the estate.

Synthetic materials

Valued for their ability to withstand temperature changes. They have increased strength and also require minimal maintenance requirements.

  • Fencing for terraces made of wood-polymer composite (WPC). This modern combined material is visually similar to painted white or Brown color tree. At the same time, it is more durable and is not subject to swelling and fading. This means it requires minimal maintenance. Today, WPC terrace fencing is gradually winning over its consumers.

  • . Polyvinyl chloride has found its application here too. The main attractive feature of such fencing is its low cost. However, they are quite fragile, which prevents their widespread distribution.

Natural materials

  • . Such fences must be very elegant so as not to overload the structure and not increase the load on the foundation. Example in the photo

  • . Metal/steel is rarely used on its own, more often it acts integral part metal fencing. However, such options also exist.

  • . Here the main element is tempered or laminated glass. Suitable for those who want to prevent dust from entering the terrace, protect themselves from the wind, and at the same time not limit their view.

  • . It is not advisable to use such material for wooden terraces, because it puts a strong load on the foundation. However, it is quite suitable for balconies.

  • Fences for terraces made of cellular or monolithic polycarbonate. Lightweight and transparent are becoming more common. This is facilitated by low weight, low cost and ease of manufacture.

  • – a stainless steel cable or rope stretched along the perimeter of the terrace performs the function of a fence.

  • - look beautiful and unusual.

  • Wooden fencing for terraces. Wooden fencing has not lost its popularity, despite its difficulty in maintenance. This was facilitated by several factors: availability, relative cheapness of the material, the ability to make it yourself, ease of installation and replacement of individual sections, and the ability to give the fence any configuration. In addition, no type can be compared in the number of variations with wooden fences for terraces.

3. By type of execution

Each material has its own approach to execution.

A fencing for a wooden terrace can be made in one of three variations:

  • Horizontal (i.e. horizontal arrangement of lintels, supports, balusters)



  • Vertical (i.e. vertical arrangement of lintels, supports, balusters)



  • Cross (i.e. cross/intersecting arrangement of lintels, supports, balusters)



Despite the wide variety of varieties, the photo of wooden terrace fencing shows that they all fit into these three types.

When choosing the type and materials for fencing, you should consider:

  • material compatibility with overall design plot;
  • weight of the future structure;
  • requirements for operation and maintenance;
  • availability of material;
  • material cost;
  • the ability to replace damaged structural elements;
  • the opportunity to carry out work on arranging and replacing the fence with your own hands.

How to make a wooden deck fencing

The device will require the following components:

  1. supports;
  2. balusters;
  3. railings for wooden terrace.

If supports and railings carry a functional load, then balusters, among other things, also serve as decorative decorations.

Balusters for the terrace - photos with varieties


If the terrace is located more than 30 cm above the ground surface, it is necessary to provide one or more steps.

If it is more than a meter, you will need railings for a wooden terrace made of wood.

DIY fencing for a wooden terrace

  1. The height of the fence is determined; for a terrace, the optimal size is about one meter.
  2. supports are installed. For horizontally located wooden elements, this is the place where they are fixed. The distance between the supports should not exceed 120 cm. The gap depends on the type of structure and the weight of the individual elements, as well as on the wind load in the region. The supports can protrude beyond the railing and act as elements that support the roof.
  3. install balusters. The frequency depends on the size of the baluster. It is generally accepted that the distance between balusters on a terrace should be no less than their width.
  4. install railings.

How to make a staircase to a terrace with railings and fencing

  • Calculation of the angle of inclination of the stairs and the location of individual elements


If the angle is too large, the stairs will be inconvenient to use. If it’s small, it will take up a lot of space in front of the terrace. The optimal angle of inclination of the stairs is 45 degrees.

  • Making a stringer - a base for attaching steps.

  • Installation of stringers. The stability of the entire structure depends on the reliability of the stringer fastening.

  • Installing steps for a terrace. The installation process is shown in the picture.

  • Finally, the installation of balusters and railings is carried out.

Fencing for the terrace - photo



Conclusion

We hope that from this article you have learned useful information about the construction of railings and fencing for wooden terraces.

The assembly of the staircase railings is completed by installing the handrail. Not everyone knows how to fasten a handrail, how to do it correctly, reliably and discreetly. We will describe some common methods for wooden and metal stairs here.

Attaching a handrail to the balusters of a wooden staircase

It turns out that wooden railings are the most difficult to make. This is because there are many different ways and techniques for working with wood and almost no ready-made solutions, since each staircase is individual and has its own characteristics. For example, attaching a handrail to balusters can be done using dowels, self-tapping screws, nails, bolts, special ties (zipbolts), and glue. In addition, you can “mount” the railing directly on the balusters and posts, but there are options with an additional strip, which is sometimes called a “rail rail.” And all of these are the “correct” ways to connect the posts to the handrail. We will talk about how to do this in this section.

First of all, cut a piece of the handrail to the required length. This can be a fragment from one support pillar to another, a piece for the entire span - from the upper/lower pillar until the moment of turning. It all depends on the design of the staircase. If there are joints between two fragments, they must be processed well, achieving a perfect match. Then the handrails for the street need to be covered protective impregnations, and then paint/varnish. Afterwards you can deal with the issues of attaching the handrail to the stairs.

How to trim balusters for installing handrails

After installing the balusters on the steps, their tops are at different levels, and without trimming the handrail cannot be installed on them - it does not fit like that. To install the support handrail on the stairs, it is necessary to cut the upper part of the racks at a certain angle. This angle is determined by the steepness of the flight of stairs and does not need to be calculated. It is determined “on the spot”.

To find the cutting angle of the balusters, you can use the tension between support pillars thread. We tie it at the same distance from the tops of the pillars, which are installed at the top and bottom of the span. Where, according to the plan, the lower border of the handrail will pass. Using this stretched thread, we draw a line with a pencil onto the tops of the posts. You can use a thread instead of a thread, or you can also temporarily secure a guide (any flat strip).

This is how it should turn out - the staircase railings are ready for installing handrails

We got the line, now we saw off the tops of the columns on the stairs strictly along it. Next, you can continue attaching the handrail to balusters or posts.

Allow me one piece of advice: if for the subsequent installation of the railing you need to drill holes for dowels or studs, it is better to do this before trimming. This makes it easier to find the center, easier to hold the drill perpendicular. After the holes are made, you can take a saw/jigsaw and file along the intended markings of the rack.

Connecting balusters and railings with dowels and threaded rods

Let's consider one of traditional ways: fastening the handrail using dowels or pins. For this type of connection, it is necessary to make matching holes in the handrail and staircase railing posts. If you install studs, you can screw them into the holes made in the center of the balusters and install the handrail in the position in which it should stand. After checking that everything is in place correctly, walk along the handrail, tapping each baluster with your fist. The protruding ends of the metal pins will leave a mark on the back of the handrail. Remove the handrail and mark the resulting marks with a marker/pencil for reliability. Now you can drill the holes. With this method of marking the handrail, there are almost no problems with its “fitting” into place.

The second option for marking the handrail for installing pins and dowels is carried out before they are installed in the balusters. First of all, we put the cut piece of the handrail in place. Then, with a pencil, mark on both sides where the balusters are installed. Before making marks, check the distance between adjacent posts below and near the handrail. If they match, everything is fine, we put marks; if not, we adjust the position of the rack and only then make marks. Adjustments are needed to ensure that all the staircase supports are vertical. This will make the railing more secure.

After all the balusters are marked, remove the handrail. WITH reverse side The marks we made are worth it. We draw diagonals between the pairs of lines that outline the baluster. We put a mark at the place where they intersect. Here you will need to drill a hole for a dowel or pin. We find the centers on the balusters in the same way (if there are no holes in them yet). As you understand, with this method of marking the handrail for the railing, problems can arise - the slightest inaccuracy and the handrail does not fit into the post. Good news The point is that the baluster can be moved within certain limits. As long as it is not fixed, there is a certain freedom, and this can be used when installing the railing. Just move it so that the tenon fits into the groove. In general, you know how to attach handrails to dowels.

To make the installation of the railing more reliable, in addition to dowels or studs, you can coat the connection with glue. This will make the structure more rigid and extend its service life without backlash.

With an auxiliary bar - support rail

Agree that the most easy installation handrails on balusters - through screws or nails. What stops you from making such a decision? An overly unsightly result in the form of fastener caps that spoil the whole look. But there is a very similar method that guarantees a good appearance of the stair railings. An auxiliary bar is used, which is also called a bolster.

The auxiliary strip is cut with a tenon, which mirror image repeats the shape of the groove at the bottom of the handrail. The flat side is placed on sawn balusters and fastened through (screws or nails - your choice). Don't forget to check the distances between adjacent posts.

Then the upper part of the support is coated with glue and the handrail is “planted”. All. There are no traces of fasteners on the front of the handrail, everything is holding together. The only thing that needs to be taken into account is that the height of the handrail turns out to be slightly larger, since the thickness of the auxiliary plank is added (if the plank is wooden, this is at least 2-3 cm).

There is another way to attach the handrail to the support rail - with small nails or self-tapping screws from below, at an angle. But with this fastening, the caps are visible. They can be disguised using one of the known methods, but it will take a long time...

The easiest way is to screw it with self-tapping screws

As you know, over time, wooden railings become “loose” due to the fact that under load they wobble, the wood fibers become crushed, and play appears. To reduce the possibility of play, when fastening through a plank, two or more screws/nails can be used for each baluster. This will make the handrail mount more rigid.

Also, for greater reliability, the bar can be made of metal. Any thin metal will do. Be it steel or aluminum. But then it will be necessary to either cut the bar to fit the size of the recess in the handrail, or modify the groove so that the handrail fits well on the structure. And one more thing: if the plank is metal, you need to find a universal glue that glues wood and metal well. This handrail mount for stairs is simple, beautiful, and reliable. Suitable for those who decided to make a stair railing with their own hands for the first time.

For spikes of different shapes

It is possible to install a wooden handrail without metal fasteners: with spikes and glue. Spikes are cut at the top of the balusters. Under them, recesses of the same shape are formed in the handrail. Tenon/groove shape - any. It can be a rhombus, a rectangle, a circle, an oval. The main thing is that the tenon and groove match perfectly. This can be achieved by making a template and repeating it exactly on each fragment. The minimum tenon height is 2.5 cm, so the height of the handrail cannot be less than 4.5 cm.

After a tenon is formed on each baluster and a groove is cut in the corresponding place on the handrail, they are glued. When installing the handrail on the balusters, they can be shifted slightly to align the holes. You can use the installed handrail after the glue has dried (the time is on the package).

Connection between handrail and support post

Often the handrail does not go on top of the post, but is connected to its side edge. How to connect the handrail and the post in this case? The easiest way is to, after cutting the handrail at the desired angle, secure it with screws or nails driven in at an angle. The disadvantages are obvious - the fastener heads are visible.

There is another way - to use a zip bolt, which consists of two movably connected studs and a gearbox. For its installation, a technological hole is required, which is made in the lower part of the handrail. It is then covered with a plug to match the wood and it becomes almost invisible. The second advantage of such a connection: it can be tightened (to a certain extent) if suddenly a backlash appears.

You also need to drill holes for the studs under the zipbolt - one in the post and one in the handrail. The technological hole is usually made in the handrail. It is positioned so that it is possible to tighten the thread under the gearbox (the length of this thread is usually 10 mm). The depth of the holes is the size of the studs (from the joint to the edge), the diameter is 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the stud.

IN drilled holes studs are installed. It is screwed into the post and simply inserted into the handrail. A gearbox is installed in the prepared technological hole, in which there is a hole for a hex key (6 mm). We rotate the gearbox so that it is convenient to use the key. Turn the key and tighten the thread, pulling the handrail to the post. This must be done after the balusters are connected to the handrail. By attaching the handrail to the post, you can assume that the railing is installed.

Installing handrails on prefabricated metal fencing

In general, assembling handrails from metal (stainless, nickel-plated, chrome-plated) pipes is similar to a construction set. There are pipes of different diameters, decorative elements to them, and a whole set of different fastenings. The railings are assembled from all these parts. That’s why they are called “prefabricated”. When deciding how to attach handrails to metal balusters/posts/racks, your task is to choose those elements that suit your task better than others or that you like more than others.

To connect metal posts/balusters to the handrail, there are special ends that are attached to a round/square/rectangular pipe on one side and to the handrail on the other. There are different types of models. You just need to find the most suitable one, choose the one you need: according to the size of the racks and the type of handrail.

In metal prefabricated fences, handrails can be different:

  • round metal pipe;
  • profile (rectangular, square) metal pipe;
  • plastic handrail (round, oval or original shape);
  • wooden of any profile.

Under each of these handrails there is a fastening, and usually more than one. Choose what you like. They are easy to fasten with clamping bolts. But, for reliability, and if the thickness of the metal allows, you can weld all the connections of the two metal parts. - it’s not an easy thing, but if you know how to handle a welding machine, nothing is impossible. Welding takes more time, but such fastening of the handrail will be very reliable.

When connecting elements metal stairs with plastic or wood, you must use the fasteners recommended by the manufacturers. Additionally, you can glue the joints with universal glue. True, in the case of stainless steel, there is no particular point in this: the adhesion will be very low. But still…

Attaching a handrail to a welded or forged stair railing

A wooden handrail is usually placed on a forged or welded fence. In its lower part, a cut is made according to the dimensions of the upper lintel of the finished fence. The seating depth of the handrail is about 2 cm. More or less is possible - it depends on your desire. The railings are connected to the handrail with self-tapping screws, which are screwed through the holes in the upper lintel. It is important to choose the length of the fastener: it should be slightly (at least 5 mm) less than the height of the handrail so that the screw does not stick out on the surface.

In this case, installing a handrail on the stairs is simple:


There is also the possibility of gluing a wooden handrail to welded or forged metal railings. When choosing a glue, you need to make sure that it can connect wood and metal. For external stairs (on, for example), you must also pay attention to the range of operating temperatures. Otherwise there are no difficulties:

  • apply glue according to instructions;
  • press the parts, secure with clamps;
  • leave until the glue dries;
  • remove the clamps.

To securely attach a handrail to a steel staircase, you can use both of these methods. One does not interfere with the other.

Methods for attaching a stair handrail to a wall

A handrail is attached to the wall if the width of the steps on the stairs exceeds 120 cm. The second handrail is made of the same material and the same shape as on the balusters, but it is attached to the wall.

To install a handrail on a wall, there is a whole range of fastenings - brackets - for different profiles (round, oval, shaped). On one side of the fastener there is a round or square fragment with a flat surface and holes made in it. We install this part on the wall. We select fasteners depending on the material from which the wall is made. We use self-tapping screws if the walls are wooden, dowels for walls made of concrete and brick, and special dowels for fastening to lightweight concrete.

The number and size of fasteners for installing a stair handrail on a wall are selected based on reliability considerations. Manufacturers make at least four holes on each bracket. Here are four self-tapping screws/dowels/nails for each and we install them. When choosing a length, it is better to proceed from the considerations “the longer, the better.” Still, the wall handrail can bear a significant load, so it’s better to be safe than to fly down...

The second part for wall mounting of stair railings - where the handrail itself is attached - can be different. Under round pipes there may be a ring of a certain diameter; there is usually a flat platform under rectangular or square handrails. This part of the stair handrail bracket also has holes so that the railing can be secured. And in this case, the number of fasteners should be equal to the number of holes (for the same reasons).

There are brackets for wall mounting of handrails with different angles of inclination. They are chosen based on their own ideas about convenience and the planned height of the support. There are also telescopic models that allow you to set the distance to the wall and/or the angle of inclination. There are also end wall brackets, which, while fixing the edges of the handrail, also decorate them.

The number of brackets depends on the length of the handrail. Usually one element is placed at the edges, and between them the calculated number, with a distance of 40-60 cm. The smaller load bearing capacity walls, the more often we install wall holders for railings.

Railings are an important part of the stairs, providing safety. On the other hand, they decorate the structure and make it complete and harmonious. You can make wooden railings for the stairs yourself. For this you will need a basic wood material, fasteners, several important tools, as well as knowledge.

What wood is suitable for construction

By building regulations safety stair railings must withstand a load of 100 kg/m. p. This means that all parts must be securely fastened, and the material must be durable.

The railings are made from hard deciduous trees - beech, ash, oak. Spruce, pine, and larch are also used. It is permissible to use other soft wood, but it must be taken into account that it will shrink more and wear out faster. It is advisable to make all parts from the same type of wood.

Note! The humidity of the wood should not be more than 18% so that the railing parts do not subsequently become deformed.

The appearance of wooden railings varies. But since we are talking about making it yourself, you need to choose a design that you can make.

Design elements and requirements

To do something, you need to imagine in detail what it looks like. The main parts of the railing are:

  • balusters. These are durable racks fixed to the steps. They are installed at an equal distance from each other;
  • handrails They consist of a top element, which is held by hand, and include a bolster, which is installed on top of the supports;
  • a cabinet or pillar is a massive stand to which handrails are attached.

The height of wooden railings, like any other, should be 90–100 cm. It is recommended to keep the distance between supports in the range of 14–21 cm. The exact distance can be calculated based on the width of the steps. If there are small children in the house, then the distance should be chosen smaller so that no one can stick their head between the balusters and fall down or get stuck.

There are also requirements for handrails for wooden stairs. They should be smooth so that no one hurts their hand. The thickness of the railing should be comfortable to hold on to.

Note! The simplest option for making wooden railings is with flat balusters 100 x 30 mm. They are easy to process; you can cut out a pattern, chamfer, or sand them.

If you have experience working on a lathe, you can turn beautiful balusters round shape. If a lathe is not available, then there is an option - to order individual elements from a carpenter, and then assemble them into a single structure.

What tool will you need?

Preparation of the tool will depend on which parts of the wooden railings will be made by hand. If you order all the parts from specialists, providing them with drawings, this will significantly speed up and simplify the work. All you need is a screwdriver, self-tapping screws, bolts, wood glue, clamps, and a hacksaw. And, of course, a pencil, ruler, corner or level.

It is more convenient to use a modern power tool, which allows you to cut or sand something as quickly as possible. But sometimes it becomes useful hand tools. So, the edges of the cuts are often polished sandpaper. Correct the shape of the parts with a chisel or cutter.

If you want to make all the details with your own hands, then you need a surface planer and a jointer to trim the bars, slats, and boards. You will need a miter saw, router and lathe woodworking tool or jigsaw (if balusters are cut from thin boards), sanding machine.

General procedure

To make smooth and durable railings with your own hands, you need to draw a drawing with dimensions and calculate the required amount of material. We need to think about how the balusters will be installed. If you are planning a tenon connection, then to grind it you will need to increase the size of the baluster board.

If there are two balusters on one step, then the length of one of them will have to be reduced (since the staircase rises continuously). Exactly how many centimeters the support needs to be reduced depends on the inclination of the stairs.

The manufacturing process can be divided into the following stages:

  • taking measurements on the stairs, measuring the width of the tread of the steps (where the foot steps), calculating the number of balusters and the distance between them, the length of the railing;
  • drawing up a sketch. On it, each part is numbered and the dimensions of all the main elements are indicated;
  • sawing bars to fit balusters;
  • turning parts manually and on a machine to give them the desired shape, polish them;
  • production of handrails;
  • production of pedestals (support pillars);
  • installation of parts on the stairs.

The cabinets are cut from thick bars. They are often decorated with balls at the end or decorative carvings. A regular pole with a cap on top will also look good. They are secured to the floor with thick screws.

Installation of balusters

When constructing a wooden staircase railing, the pedestals are installed first and the balusters are already aligned along them, on top of which the railings are attached.

Bolt-on mounting

The issue of securing balusters on steps deserves special attention. It is best to use bolts for this. First, a hole is drilled in the step and a bolt is screwed in from below.

Balusters are installed along a guide that connects the pillars at the beginning and end of the stairs (as the railings go). You can take a board as a guide and attach supports to it with clamps to make it easier to mark for drilling holes for bolts. For leveling, stretched string or a metal profile is also used.

Each support is numbered, a line for the passage of the railing is drawn on it, and the place where it will stand is marked with a pencil. What is it for? The fact is that after preliminary installation, the balusters will need to be removed and cut at an angle, just like the railings. After this, they are installed in accordance with the numbering. The installation is perfectly smooth and correct.

Advice! All parts can additionally be glued with glue so that the stairs do not creak.

Mounting on chopsticks

Another way to install balusters is using wooden choppers. They are installed in holes drilled in the steps and glued. Holes are drilled in the balusters in accordance with the size of the chop and placed on top, coated with glue. In this case, exclusively wooden fasteners are used.

If there are no strict requirements for appearance, for example, the staircase is located on the street, in a country house, then you can use open fasteners - metal corners.

Through the bar

You can make flat balusters from boards 100 mm wide and 30 mm thick. A pattern is cut out on them using a cutter or jigsaw, sanded, the sections are cleaned with sandpaper, and polished. It is recommended to attach thin flat balusters not directly to the step, but through a block. This will give the structure greater strength.

A railing strip is installed on top of the balusters and the railings are secured. All fastenings can be made with self-tapping screws, tightening them with a screwdriver. If marked correctly, this method will take a minimum of time.

Handrails

The handrail can be made from one board if its length does not exceed 1.5 m. Otherwise, you will need to join the parts. This is due to the fact that the structure must be rigid.

To make wooden railings, use a block with a cross-section of at least 60 mm. Its upper part must be rounded. The section itself after processing can have any shape.

Wider railings are made of three parts - a central bar and side slats, which are glued together and clamped with clamps. The resulting box is planed with a plane and milled into shape.

Handmade wooden staircase railings are varnished or treated with stain. You can paint them, but in this case the wood texture will not be visible.

Advice! If the wooden staircase is outdoor, then the railings can be made in an antique style. To do this they are burned blowtorch, pass a layer of stain on top.

There is also the option of curved handrails. The result is more elegant railings, but the work of making them is very difficult. They make bent handrails from sectors, folding them into an arc, carefully adjusting them and connecting them with dowels.

Variety of railings

Stair railings can be combined with other materials, and they are made by ourselves different configurations. Wooden handrails look especially beautiful in combination with forged metal fencing. Perhaps someone will come up with their own railings that best suit the layout of the existing room.

If the staircase is adjacent to the wall, then the railing is usually made on one side, but sometimes a double-sided design is used. In this case, it is better not to glue the balusters, but only screw them in so that you can remove them and wash the wall or carry out any repair work.

In the very simple version The railings are posts on which a level handrail is placed on top. Perhaps this is where we need to start mastering the manufacturing process. If you manage to make a small, narrow railing for the porch garden house, then you can confidently begin building a wooden fence in a cottage or apartment.

Almost your entire home can be furnished if you have the skills to use tools. It’s also not particularly difficult to do if you have a welding machine and some experience working with it. But before starting any work, it is worth deciding on the material, as well as the assembly scheme of the products, in order to complete all the work correctly. How difficult is it to make metal railings for stairs at home?

Selection of quality materials

  • welding machine;
  • electrodes;

Conclusion on the topic

DIY metal staircase railings: design elements


Almost your entire home can be furnished if you have the skills to use tools. Making metal staircase railings with your own hands is also not particularly difficult if you have a welding machine and some experience working with it.

Installing metal railings on the stairs with your own hands

Metal railings are one of the most common types of fencing installed on stairs outside and inside buildings. Due to the strength of the material, such handrails meet all safety requirements for flights of stairs. And although metal is more difficult to process than wood, products made from it are no less popular. New ones have appeared technical solutions, allowing homeowners to install such railings with their own hands.

Black metal railing on the stairs

Why metal?

In addition to strength and safety, metal railings attract many other advantages:

  • long service life in various conditions;
  • products do not require constant maintenance;
  • variety of design and construction options;
  • metal stair railings look great in any interior or exterior of a building;
  • go well with other building materials - wood, plastic, glass.

Among the disadvantages of metal fences, it is worth noting their significant weight and susceptibility to corrosion. And then, the last minus appears when wrong choice handrails for location on the street or in production premises, where operating conditions are more severe.

Types of metal railings (chrome-plated, anodized, stainless steel)

According to the method of installation, staircase enclosing structures are conventionally divided into 2 groups:

  • installed using electric welding;
  • assembled from individual parts using threaded connections and self-tapping screws.

The first group includes metal fencing, welded from forged elements or steel profiles rectangular and round section. Products artistic forging They are distinguished by both original design and high cost. A more affordable design option made with your own hands from profile pipes different sizes using PVC and wood handrails.

Wrought iron staircase railings with wooden balusters and handrails Railings made of profile pipes with wooden handrails

Parts of assembly kits are made of different metals with coatings designed for certain operating conditions. There are such railing options:

Anodized aluminum products are also quite expensive, but they are very light, comfortable and attractive. They are usually installed inside residential and office buildings, since the coating on the outside quickly fades. Stainless steel and chrome-plated fences can be installed anywhere as they are resistant to corrosion.

Chrome stair railings

The cheapest fences for staircases are made from round ones steel pipes with chromium-nickel coating. They are so wear-resistant and practical that they are often used as handrails in city minibuses. At the same time, chrome-plated pipes are massively counterfeited, and the coating of such products crumbles after 1-2 years.

Preparation for installation

Regardless of the chosen railing option, to purchase and procure materials you need to measure the length of the staircase enclosing structure and determine the height and number of racks (balusters). Here it is necessary to take into account the following regulatory requirements regarding safe operation flight of stairs:

  1. The minimum height of the fence above the level of the steps is 0.9 m.
  2. The racks should be attached to the surface of the steps or to the side of the string to make the passage wider.
  3. The maximum clearance between filling elements should not exceed 15 cm.
  4. The optimal diameter of a round handrail is 5 cm. A rectangular one should be selected that is close in cross-section.

To do the work yourself, you need to prepare the following set of tools:

  • electric welding machine (if you plan to assemble a welded structure);
  • grinder equipped with a metal circle;
  • electric drill with perforation function;
  • a regular set of plumbing tools;
  • measuring devices - tape measure, square, ruler, building level.

Stainless steel and chrome pipes are sold standard sizes– 50, 38 and 16 mm and are used for handrails, balusters and crossbars, respectively. Some manufacturers sell ready-made installation kits made of metal parts that can be quickly assembled on site.

Installation of handrails

Before installation, the metal must be cut into pieces of the required length. Moreover, the length of the stainless steel posts is taken into account the height of the adjustable tips and supports. To assemble a welded structure, fastening flanges with 3-4 holes for anchors must be welded to the racks. It is better to do this using tacks so that the position of the balusters can be adjusted during the assembly process. It is advisable to make the handrail from one solid pipe.

Do-it-yourself installation work on installing a stair railing is divided into the following stages:

  1. Marking steps for attaching balusters.
  2. Drilling holes and installing racks.
  3. Handrail fastening.
  4. Filling gaps between balusters.
  5. Installation of decorative shaped elements.

Marking is done by stretching the cord between the two outer posts, whose position is precisely adjusted. A line is marked on the steps, and mounting flanges with holes are attached to it, through which marks are placed on the treads. After marking, blind holes for anchors are drilled in the steps.

The balusters are placed in place and pre-fixed. They should be clearly aligned vertically in two planes, only then can they be finally secured. The order of further work depends on the type of structure:

  1. Before welding, the height of all racks must be adjusted to the laid handrail so that the gap is minimal. Then connect the elements on the tacks and check their position again, after which you can fill the openings and make the final welding.
  2. Metal stainless steel railings are mounted using the same algorithm, only without welding. The height of the intermediate balusters is adjusted using adjustable tips along the handrail pipe attached to the outer posts. Next, fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws, then longitudinal crossbars are installed on the supports, passed through special fastenings in the form of barrels.

A fence welded from “black” pipes must be cleaned and painted over a layer of GF-021 primer. In prefabricated structures, the ends of the pipes are closed with plugs fixed with glue.

DIY metal stair railings


How to make a railing for a staircase from metal - choice of material (chrome-plated, anodized, stainless steel), features of installation with your own hands + video, photo.

DIY metal stair railings

DIY handrail

In modern projects country houses intricate staircases and decorative parapets are often used. Making a building envelope is not an easy task, requiring the performer to have certain skills and the availability of construction tools.

The article describes the technologies for creating wooden and metal handrails, and also provides recommendations on the choice of material for the manufacture of handrails.

Requirements for stair railings

The main function of the parapet is the safety of movement along the stairs. Moreover, the structural elements are an excellent decorative element to decorate the interior or exterior of the house. Railings and handrails must be manufactured in compliance with SNiP standards:


Parapet structural elements

Any parapet installed in a house or on a porch consists of the following structural elements.

Racks (balusters)– the main assembly of the railing, which takes most of the load when supported. Racks are fixed to the bowstring or steps. Balusters are placed on the stairs at a certain distance.

Handrails– the top bar located above the balusters. It is on the handrail that your hand rests when moving on the stairs. This element must be abrasion resistant. Therefore, when making a handrail for a staircase with your own hands, you need to carefully consider the choice of material. It is not advisable to use spruce, fir and larch - during operation, gaps and sharp peeling may appear. It is also advisable to avoid pine, poplar, aspen and linden, since these species are very soft and wear out quickly. Birch is not suitable for arranging stairs in a damp room - the wood can bend under the influence of moisture.

Cabinet– a powerful stand installed at the base of the stairs. The ends of the handrails are attached to the cabinet.

To make the structure attractive, artistic content is often used - these are elements located between the racks.

Important! There are also wall options railings fixed directly to the wall. This design does not provide for the use of balusters and cabinets.

Types of handrails for stairs

Before you start creating handrails and railings, you need to choose the most suitable option. All types of parapet can be classified according to the following criteria:

Most often, the following materials are used for the manufacture of railings:

  • tree;
  • metal (wrought iron, aluminum, nickel-plated or chrome-plated pipes);
  • plastic and glass;
  • concrete.

Traditional material is wood. Excellent for arranging staircase structures inside the house. Wood has a unique texture and fills the room with comfort and warmth. The material is easy to process, so even a non-professional can make wooden handrails for handrails with his own hands. Additional benefits include:

  • high structural strength with proper calculation and installation;
  • environmental friendliness of the material - natural wood does not have a harmful effect on the human body;
  • comfort and safety.

Important! Unlike metal, wood does not heat up in the sun, and in frosty weather you cannot stick to it. This point is especially relevant for families with children.

No less popular are metal handrails and railings, which are characterized by increased reliability and durability. Such products look good both individually and in combination with other materials (wood, concrete). Optimally suitable for arranging street fencing.

Important! To make a street handrail, you should only use stainless metal– this will eliminate the possibility of corrosion damage and preserve the original appearance of the structure.

Among metal handrails, wrought iron handrails for stairs are considered the most valuable and beautiful. They give the interior and exterior of the building solidity and status. A staircase with forged elements will decorate any facade of the house. The only disadvantage of forging is the complexity of manufacturing. It is unlikely that you will be able to create a masterpiece on your own, and the finished product will be expensive.

Today, PVC parapets are being used more and more often. This material is available in a wide selection of textures and has an affordable price. The advantages of plastic fencing include:

  • increased wear resistance - service life is estimated at tens of years, provided that high-quality material is used;
  • ease of installation – suitable for DIY production and installation of handrails; polyvinyl chloride is easy to bend and process;
  • A large assortment of colors and textures allows you to bring to life bold design ideas when designing the exterior of a building.

Important! Considering the chemical component of the material, PVC is not recommended for creating handrails indoors.

When decorating a country cottage, concrete fences are often used. Durability, strength and capitality, combined with a respectable appearance, emphasize the status of the owner of the house. The plasticity of concrete allows you to experiment and create different shapes. However, working with such material, compared to wood and plastic, is more difficult. The technology for creating a concrete parapet requires certain knowledge and skills.

DIY porch railings and handrails: video

Making your own handrail from wood

Let's take a closer look at an example of creating a wooden handrail from boards. To work you will need the following tools:

  • flat grinder;
  • grinder and milling machine with an attachment for cutting a plane in the shape of a semicircle;
  • jigsaw;
  • screwdriver;
  • miter saw;
  • pipes;
  • narrow brush;
  • construction knife;
  • calipers;
  • square/ruler and a simple pencil.

Necessary materials to create a handrail with your own hands:

  • wooden boards with a thickness of 2.5-4 mm, optimally 3.5 mm; It is better to give preference to oak or ash;
  • wooden beams with a cross section of 20*20 mm;
  • sandpaper;
  • self-tapping screws for woodworking, 110 mm long;
  • PVA glue with a high content of adhesives;
  • masking tape;
  • paper.

The technology consists of sequential gluing wooden planks. The number of layers will be 12. Taking into account the fact that boards with a width of 4.2 cm and a thickness of 3.5 mm are used, the finished product will have dimensions of about 42 * 42 mm. If you need to make a larger handrail, then you should proportionally increase the width of the board and the number of layers.

Work order:


  • The boards are compressed until the glue comes out of the joint.
  • Leave each layer to dry for at least 12 hours. After setting, cut off the excess boards with a milling cutter and sand the board joints.
  • Each subsequent layer is performed by analogy. As the work progresses, it is necessary to control the thickness and width of the handrail with a caliper. The bumps need to be sanded down.

Important! Each layer of wooden boards must be processed with a milling machine. As a template, a starting layer of plywood and underlying cut boards.

The final stage is processing the handrail on both sides using a milling cutter with a rounding attachment. After this, the product will acquire round section. Upon completion, the plywood must be removed and the finished handrail secured.

Cosmetic work includes:

  • wood putty – color matched to the tone of the wood;
  • sanding with sandpaper;
  • painting and opening with varnish.

How to make a metal stair railing

Make simple railings for country staircase possible from a metal profile. You will need the following tools and materials:

  • welding machine;
  • electrodes;
  • protective mask and suit;
  • angle grinder, wheels for polishing and cutting metal;
  • level;
  • rolled metal and metal profiles.

  1. Determine the height of the railing and the location of the balusters.
  2. Calculate the height of the fence. The recommended value is 95 cm. However, it must be taken into account that the railing frame is located above the steps at a distance of 10 cm, and the thickness of the handrail will be 5 cm. Therefore, the size of the balusters will be: 95 – 10 – 5 = 80 cm.
  3. Cut the metal profile into balusters and cabinets.
  4. Prepare the upper and lower profiles on which the balusters will be installed.
  5. Lay out the frame from the sections of the profile and secure them by welding. Weld the balusters to the profiles.
  6. Check the levelness of the parapet and compliance required dimensions. If there are no distortions, then perform final welding.
  7. Weld metal posts with plates to the lower profile, the length of the posts is 10 cm.
  8. Make holes in the plates and fix the railings on the steps.

How to make handrails for stairs with your own hands from metal. Expert advice: video.

Self-installation of grab bars in the bathroom

It is not advisable to make a bathroom handrail yourself. Any plumbing store has a lot of them and at a reasonable price. The main thing is to do right choice and perform proper installation. Buying this device The following selection criteria must be taken into account.

Handrail type. It is important to pay attention to the size of the device and the degree of transformation. Using a small handle may not be very convenient. It is better to give preference to curved or angular handrails, which are used when entering or exiting the bathroom.

Installation location and method. If there are several screws on the back of the handle, it means that such a handrail is mounted into the side of the bathtub. If there is a rectangular or round flange, then the device is installed on the wall.

Important! Fasteners must be supplied with the handle, otherwise it will be difficult to pick them up separately in the store.

Handrail material. As a rule, bathroom handles are made of metal or polyurethane. Products made from polished stainless steel will last the longest.

It is necessary to embed the handle into the side of the bath before installing the plumbing. Sequence of work:

  1. Apply markings for the holes on the enamel side of the bathtub.
  2. Drill holes. To avoid damaging the enamel, drilling should be performed at low speeds.
  3. Treat the holes with enamel or primer - this will protect the bathtub from premature corrosion.
  4. Install screws from the outer side of the bath and put silicone or rubber seals on them.
  5. Attach and screw the bathtub grab bar.

To install a wall handrail you will have to drill tiles. This can be done with a hammer drill or a drill by turning off the “impact” option. You need to insert a plastic plug into the resulting hole and fix the handle using self-tapping screws.

Articles on the topic

How to make a metal staircase railing with your own hands?

Elements and purpose of the design

Metal railings are used more often in in public places than in private homes. They are a support and at the same time and partially perform the function of protection. For public places, railings are a must. The main structural elements are handrails, posts (balusters), intermediate parts. They have the following purpose:

  • the handrails perform the main function of the structure - they provide the opportunity to comfortably lean on the stair railings, they are smooth and easy to grip;
  • the posts give the railing structure stability and rigidity;
  • other details, which are optionally placed in different parts railings, are a decorative addition or perform additional protective functions.

You can even make metal railings yourself if you choose good materials and tools. In addition, armed with a few additional instructions, it is quite possible to independently make not only reliable, but also beautiful railings for stairs.

Selection of quality materials

Drawing of a metal railing.

Before you start making railings, you need to choose the material:

  1. Aluminum is a type of metal that is often used to assemble fences and railings in public places. Its cheapness is explained by low performance indicators, so its use is not recommended.
  2. Chromed steel. Dear, beautiful, but not entirely practical. It is difficult to process chrome plated workpieces at home.
  3. Steel and iron. Conventional profiles are quite suitable for forging and home welding. Their advantages are affordable price and the opportunity to work without fear for the appearance of products.
  4. Cast iron is cheap, but at home it is almost impossible to make something beautiful and elegant out of it.
  5. Stainless steel - good option for assembly metal structures. Has good performance characteristics and attractive appearance. Products made from such material are not only beautiful, but also reliable.

It is worth focusing on steel and iron, factory profiles and various forged products. Buying parts or making them yourself is a personal matter for each craftsman.

Home making process

First of all, to make metal railings with your own hands, you should acquire metal tools and a workbench. It is best to use the following as the main working devices:

Tools for the manufacture and installation of metal railings.

  • welding machine;
  • electrodes;
  • mask and overalls for working with welding for a long time;
  • grinder with metal-look wheels;
  • building level, ruler, corners.

Before starting work, you need to choose the style of future products. The most suitable scheme and the process begins step-by-step assembly. In the example of step-by-step assembly, a metal profile will be used as the main material. The assembly sequence is as follows:

  1. The height of standard metal railings is 900-1000 mm. Of this height, approximately 40-50 mm are handrails. The approximate length of the racks should be about 1200 mm.
  2. The first and last posts must be made 2 times thicker than the others, since they are load-bearing in the structure.
  3. The frame is assembled first. Its assembly is carried out according to the drawing. If it does not have curved elements, you can lay it out on a flat surface and carry out partial welding of the main elements.
  4. The pitch between balusters is 100-150 mm.
  5. After reinforcement, a check is carried out for defects, distortions and defects. Using a level and an angle, measure all parts of the railing and only then finish welding the parts.
  6. Seams are made on both sides to increase the strength of the joints.
  7. The last to be welded metal parts, in which holes for anchors will be made.

This video shows the process of making forged metal railings:

Design and decorative works

After welding work, one or more rough spans are available. All that remains is to decorate them with your own hands. First of all, armed with a sander, remove all angularities, roughness, drops and defects. This work is painstaking and exhausting, but doing everything with your own hands is always very difficult. Once sanding and polishing is complete, you can start decorating.

In stores you can buy many forged elements that can be placed on racks or between them. Having chosen the most suitable ones, weld them to the main parts. Then clean everything again with a sanding machine. Handrails are best made of wood. To attach them, you need to make holes in the frame. You can buy ready-made products, but this may be more expensive. Very wide handrails are uncomfortable, so it is better to make them small and as smooth to the touch as possible. To work with handrails, you should use wood tools. For painting you will need a primer and metal paint. The color is chosen depending on the design style of the room where the railings will be. The profiles and decorative elements are primed and then painted.

This video talks about the elements of metal railings:

Conclusion on the topic

Assembling a metal staircase railing at home is quite a difficult task and not every craftsman can do it. To assemble all the parts correctly, you must have skills in metal processing. Of course, you can try to do everything without prior preparation. In this case, the number of alterations and shortcomings due to inexperience will be very large. The best option- find not only high-quality schemes execution, but also ask for help from a friend who has experience in handling metal.

For safety and comfort - metal railings

To ensure the safety of climbing stairs on a porch or in a building, stairs are equipped with metal railings. Metal stainless steel railings, either made of ferrous metal or lightweight aluminum, are one of the most popular and reliable ways to limit staircase space and are available in a wide variety of prices. Combining the aesthetics of an original decorative item and the functionality of an auxiliary structure, staircase supports made of stainless steel, cast iron or aluminum enjoy well-deserved love among both consumers and craftsmen.

You can make similar simple fences yourself

Is it possible to make such railings yourself?

Even a novice homeowner can make simple structures from metal. Having a simple tool at your disposal, you can create an original and reliable design. If you have a household or professional welding machine, profiled round and square stainless steel pipes, then you can easily make simple metal railings for the stairs (photo above) with your own hands. Such steel products are good for a minimalist interior or an outdoor porch.

Luxurious forging makes the interior elegant

To decorate a house or porch, more refined metal parts made by forging or casting are selected. But what prevents you from creating a masterpiece with your own hands? So what types of designs exist today?

Welded structure of straight and shaped elements

Types and forms of railings

The range of metal railings for stairs pleasantly pleases with variety. Among those presented on the market and offered for custom production, the following can be distinguished:

  • Forged. The elegance and beauty of these metal stair railings and railings is amazing. Modern equipment and the skill of professionals allow us to create complex ornate patterns and natural ornaments that will look great on the porch and in the house. Look at the photos to see what masterpieces come out of the hands of talented craftsmen! The cost of such solutions is high.
  • Cast. Such railings are made from brass, bronze, cast iron by casting elements and then polishing them. Creating stair railings of this type requires a lot of effort and time, and therefore they are distinguished by a high price.
  • Reinforcement profile or welded. Perhaps the most affordable metal railings for stairs, which anyone can make with their own hands. To make them, you need pipes made of steel or aluminum, a welding machine or metal fasteners, and a grinder.
  • Prefabricated. Such railings are made from ready-made block structures, which, when connected to each other, form a single surface of the staircase railing. Notable are the original stainless steel railings trademark"MetlCon" shown in the photo.

The price of iron or cast iron railings for stairs largely depends on the complexity of the pattern and the amount of work. But they make the perfect addition to your front porch or front staircase in your home!

Combination of brass and wood in railings

It is worth noting that combined variations are widespread. They are fences that combine not only different technologies, but also materials - wood, stainless metal, glass, plastic. They are actively used in street construction, as well as for arranging staircases in administrative buildings. This is largely due to their versatility and affordable price.

What elements do the railings consist of?

Any metal railing has a standard design, consisting of basic elements in different variations. The photo shows classic metal railings. They basically contain:

  • Balusters. These are transverse posts that are fixed on steps or special clamps and hold the handrails. Made from stainless steel, iron, cast iron according to the sketch. Simple solutions You can make it yourself from pipes.
  • Handrails. These are smooth parts located along the descent from the stairs. Made from metal, wood or plastic.

A beautiful creation made of forged black metal with coating

  • Filling. A variety of transverse and longitudinal crossbars, ornate forging patterns, glass and plastic inserts. In the presented photos you can see spectacular elements. A metal cable that you can stretch between the balusters with your own hands is laconic and affordable, giving the span a finished look.

All parts perform their function, creating a reliable and safe fencing for the staircase space. Handrails for stairs can be made with your own hands or ordered from craftsmen, but it is worth remembering that their dimensions and design are regulated by safety requirements. No matter how beautiful the proposed staircase and its fencing solutions may look in the photo in the catalog, always pay attention to the practical side of the issue - protection against falls and ease of use.

DIY metal stair railings - All about stairs


Handrails for metal stairs with your own hands Handrails with your own hands In the projects of modern country houses, intricate stairs and decorative parapets are often used. Manufacturing

How to make a metal staircase railing with your own hands

Currently, there are many types of railings: plastic, wood, metal and others. Many owners of private houses and summer cottages, planning to build step railings in their house/porch, are wondering which railings are best?

Despite the complexity of installation, many people prefer metal products. Since they do not rot and have a high level of strength and reliability. In addition, they are installed on both metal, concrete and wooden stairs.

Before moving directly to the technology of making metal railings at home, you need to decide what kind of fencing will be stainless, steel or aluminum, and you should also find out what their advantages are.

Metal fence

Advantages of steel structures. Material selection

The following advantages of use are highlighted:

  • high strength index;
  • long service life;
  • atmospheric phenomena do not affect the reliability of the product in any way;
  • resistance to mechanical damage.

Features and advantages of stainless steel products:

  • goes well with wood/glass;
  • will serve for more than half a century;
  • handrails can be either steel or wood (steel is great for screw structures);
  • lack of decorative layer.

Made from stainless steel

Features and Benefits steel structures:

  • Thanks to powder coating, steel products can have different color and shade;
  • low price;
  • need painting;
  • good decorative qualities;
  • if the shape of the product is complex and several parts are required for connection, then they are fastened by welding (in the future, to avoid rust, you will have to grind and treat the welding areas).

Aluminum - features and benefits:

  • light weight;
  • high wear resistance;
  • high level of plasticity;
  • Products of almost any shape and color can be made from such material;
  • the strength indicator is low, so structures made of such material are most often installed in rooms where they are not subject to frequent loads;
  • scratches easily.

Features and advantages of wooden fences:

  • low cost;
  • simple installation;
  • attractive appearance;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • but in order for such a product to last for decades, it must be treated with special antiseptic agents to prevent the appearance of rodent pests, mold and the proliferation of microorganisms.

After you have decided on the main material, you should find out and clearly imagine what the railing will look like. Will there be patterns ( forged elements), what kind of stands there will be (unusual or classic).

Types of assembly

Prefabricated structures consist of aluminum/steel components. After installation is completed, aluminum products are coated with a protective substance, and steel products can simply be painted with the chosen paint. As a rule, such handrails will cost much less than all others. Installation of prefabricated railings is simple and quick (even a novice master can handle it).

Complex products are mainly manufactured by welding. The latter can be argon-arc (no sparks during the welding process) and semi-automatic. Most often, railings are made of ferrous metal or steel in this way. This design is durable and strong. To give the structure a shape, the method of “cold” bending of metal is used.

Handrails using forged elements

However, the disadvantage of such products is that they are susceptible to corrosion and periodically require painting.

Railings can also be made by forging. This type of assembly is considered the most expensive. However, such a fence looks more interesting than all of the above options. Making them yourself will not be easy.

In order to make such products, you will first need to create a template from which the component elements will be made. This type of design has a huge selection of shapes.

Also found combined options. For example, a combination of glass with steel posts and handrails.

GOST requirements

  • The height of the fence should not exceed one meter ( best option 80-90 millimeters);
  • it is necessary to fill the space between the balusters;
  • if the fence is attached to the wall, then the distance between them should be about ten centimeters;
  • the end of the handrail should be rounded and protrude thirty centimeters beyond the step line;
  • the load that the railing must withstand is one hundred kilograms per square meter;
  • no defects;
  • the gap between the posts should be 60-70 centimeters.

Wall mount

If the staircase is located near a wall, then the handrail is attached directly to the wall. In case of this, stands will not be needed. For mounting you will need brackets (cast or hinged).

If there is a need to adjust the tilt of the handrail, then choose hinged brackets. This design is easy to assemble and disassemble.

Designed for simplified installation

Attachment to stairs

Three mounting methods:

  • flanged (the flange is fixed using self-tapping screws);
  • single - the simplest and at the same time the most unreliable method (the stand is fixed to a dowel);
  • anti-vandal - the most reliable method (holes are made with a drill in the steps).

And this is how it is attached to the stairs

Fastening to a step

  • Place marks on the steps under the racks. It is necessary to retreat about eight centimeters from the edges of the steps. It is worth remembering that the pillars should be located at a distance of half a meter from each other.
  • Install the outer supports. If the fixation is single, then holes are made in the steps (diameter 16 millimeters and depth 12 centimeters). Then anchors are inserted into them, onto which balusters are placed. If fixation is carried out using the flange method, then three holes are made (depth - eight centimeters, and diameter 1.2 centimeters). Then dowels are inserted into them. Secure with self-tapping screws and install poles.
  • Pull the thread from the outer pillars. The baluster is installed, focusing on the thread.
  • Check the verticality of the racks.

Important! Stainless steel railings can be mounted either on top of the balusters or on the side using flanges.

  • The handrail is cut at a right angle. Then holes are made in the required places. Installation on hinges. Fastening.
  • Filling space. If the gap between the racks is filled with crossbars, then they are cut into segments and fastened, having previously drilled holes for the fasteners. If the space is filled with glass panels, then holders are installed on the posts, with which the panels should be fixed.

Attachment to the end of the step

Important! This fastening method is only possible if the gap between the marches is at least seventy centimeters. Using anchors, mount the baluster on the end.

  1. Fastening on two expansion anchors through a sleeve. This method is relevant in cases where it is necessary to install a pole near a step.
  2. Side mount.
  3. Fixation with liquid nails.
  4. On two expansion anchors.

End attachment diagram

  1. In places where there is a difference in the height of the handrail, under no circumstances should you install supports.
  2. In places where there is a difference in height, it is necessary to adjust the joint as accurately as possible.
  3. It is better if the joints of the crossbars are closed.

Installation on concrete stairs

  1. Under the racks are made in concrete surface holes.
  2. Then remove all dirt and dust after drilling.
  3. Glue is poured into the hole made. Then install the threaded rods.
  4. Fix the plates with a nut. The posts are attached to the plate by welding/bolting. At the same time, we must not forget about controlling the verticality of the rack.
  5. The handrail is secured to the post using welding/bolting.
  6. All seams are cleaned and sanded.

Railings on a concrete staircase

How to paint metal handrails

In order for iron railings to last a long time and not rust, they must be painted. For black iron, alkyd acrylic or oil paints are suitable. Acrylic paints are most suitable because they have high elasticity.

Alkyd enamels create a film that serves as protection against temperature changes. However, the level of toxicity of such enamels is high.

Preparing for painting

  1. Clean the product from dust and dirt.
  2. Then a metal primer is applied in two layers.
  3. It is best to paint a metal structure on a calm day.
  4. Iron products are painted with a spray or roller.

This is how painting works

Finally

Before installing metal railings, you need to carefully study the fastening methods, understand their features and nuances. In order for the product to serve for decades, it must be installed taking into account all requirements and standards.

It is more advisable to purchase a ready-made structure, which includes all the necessary drawings and fasteners.

Most users highlight many wonderful advantages in the work. Marina: I decided to order a gate like this for the garden. I can say that never.

Denis, 33: When they installed automatic sectional doors, reviews and comments from neighbors were different. Then we played with the remote control - it was great.

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DIY metal stair railings - manufacturing instructions


Currently, there are many types of railings: plastic, wood, metal and others. Many owners of private houses and summer cottages, planning to build step railings in their house/porch, are wondering which railings are best? Despite the complexity of installation, many people prefer