How and with what to level a concrete floor: modern technologies and materials. Your neighbor won’t tell you about this - how to level a concrete floor Leveling the floor with a cement screed

Flooring materials, for example, linoleum or ceramic tiles, require a completely flat base. Surface defects and unevenness usually have a negative impact on the performance characteristics of the coating and its durability. Therefore, many are interested in how to level a concrete floor.

How to level concrete floors

There are quite a lot of floor leveling technologies. However, all of them can be divided into two main groups:

• wet method, which includes the use cement-sand mortar or self-leveling mixture;
• dry - on logs, which involves the use of plywood, chipboard, etc.

When choosing how to level a concrete floor, consider:

• what condition is the floor in?
• maximum height difference of the base;
• type of decorative coating.

• Self-leveling floors will become ideal solution when the floor surface has slight unevenness. The height difference should not exceed 3.5 cm.
• When leveling with a large layer of screed, the option of leveling using beacons is more suitable. This is the approximate height level of the new concrete base. It is also used if it is intended to lay some communications through the floor and hide them under the leveling solution.
• Alignment with joists is ideal for cold floors, in particular, in your own home or on the first floor in apartment building, since the space remaining between the floor and the slab is effectively used for thermal insulation. Ventilation, drainage, and other dimensional communications can be carried out through it.

Preparing the base for leveling

At the first stage it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. The large rate of heat loss through the cement screed is the main disadvantage of this type of floor. Therefore, they first do the insulation, and only then choose how to properly level the concrete floor.

The type of insulation is pre-selected and installed according to the technological diagram. For this you can use basalt wool, polystyrene foam or expanded clay. However, the work does not end there. After pouring the subfloor and its final cooling, a number of defects form.

• Regardless of the technology chosen, the base must be thoroughly cleaned of old coating, baseboards, etc., and, of course, any debris that has formed.
• Available at old screed defects: bumps, chips, depressions or other irregularities need to be leveled. For pouring, use a concrete mixture, various mastics or grouts.
• As already noted, one of the important points To level the concrete base, the amount of height difference is considered, which is quite simple to calculate. Existing surface irregularities are determined using two levels: long and small.
• The floor surface is primed to increase the adhesion of the screed to the floor. This is especially true for self-leveling floor technology. In this way, you can reduce the likelihood of cracks forming in the layer of the future screed, as well as waterproof the floor. If the surface strongly absorbs moisture, it is advisable to repeat the priming procedure.

Preparation procedure:

• Removing cracks. Visually determine their location. Then you need to widen them using a hammer and chisel. To fill the resulting cavity, you can use cement mortar or special construction compounds;
• High mounds. It is recommended to remove them using cutting tool– hammer drill or angular grinding machine. In the latter case, a disc for concrete is required;
• Pits. To remove them, you do not need to make a completely new screed. After treating the floor with a grinder, the resulting containers are filled with fine, dry crushed stone. Then a solution of two-component epoxy concrete is prepared. Height repair screed usually ranges from 2 to 6 mm. Final drying time is about 50 minutes.

In these ways, defects can be locally corrected. But how to level concrete floors if the level of height difference is significant? There are several effective ways that will help solve this problem.

All work must be carried out only after the concrete screed has completely dried. This process can take from 20 to 60 days depending on its thickness and volume of water.

How to level a concrete floor in an apartment

For significant unevenness that exceeds 10 mm per 1 m.p. It is recommended to make a new screed. But you need to be prepared that this process will take a lot of time. This method is used for leveling floors in utility rooms: garages, private boiler rooms, and filling on the first floors of buildings is also possible.

Let's look at step by step how to level a concrete floor for linoleum, laminate and other popular floor coverings.

Cement-sand screed

Beacons are placed along the premises, which represent metal slats, perforated corners or other similar material. They actually divide the floor into strips. The distance between them depends on the area and configuration of the room. As a rule, the step is about 1 m. The DSP mixture is poured between the strips and “pulled apart”. Next, the solution is leveled using the rule. They move it in four directions: to the sides, towards themselves and away from themselves, leaning on the beacons. Each leveled area should be less than a meter long. It will take at least three days for such a floor to dry.

The main disadvantage is the increase in the mass of the interfloor ceiling. The weight of the screed is first calculated and the possibility of pouring it is checked. The technology is no different from the standard one. Since the concrete floor in the garage needs to be leveled as correctly as possible, preparatory work is being carried out. The premises are completely vacated and the above-described preparatory work is carried out.

Execution stages.

1. Setting the fill level. This is done using a building level. The best option– use of a laser tool.
2. Installation of reinforcing mesh.
3. Using a galvanized profile for drywall, poles are installed. They are fixed at the required height with a cement mixture.
4. Preparing and pouring the solution. It should evenly fill the entire volume without going beyond the profile.

After completing the work, you need to moisten the surface with water for 2-3 days. This will prevent cracks from appearing. Final drying time is usually around 25 days.

Self-leveling solution

The above method will not always be relevant. This is especially true for apartments, where additional loads on the interfloor ceilings. Alternative way consists of pouring self-leveling mixtures. This is one of modern methods leveling the base for floor finishing materials. Leveling mixtures are supplied in the form of dry powder. They may differ in composition: base, additives or fillers. It is important to choose the right type and composition. If the difference is more than 3 mm, you will need to use two types of mixtures. The first to be formed is a rough surface, which will eliminate obvious defects. The second, finishing, is intended for final processing. For this reason, the preparation of the mixture for use may differ and is carried out in full accordance with the instructions on the package. However, they share common points:

• The mixture is prepared immediately before use, as the solution dries out after about 30 minutes. To dilute it you need a container. Experienced craftsmen They recommend a plastic bucket, since it is much more convenient to pour the mixture.
• The solution is poured under certain conditions. In particular, the door and windows in the room must be tightly closed to prevent possible drafts. The temperature regime also has some limitations, above 10°, which must be maintained not only while working with the mixture, but also when the self-leveling floor dries.

• If necessary, additional heating in the room can be arranged.
• Although manufacturers claim that self-leveling floor you can walk in a couple of hours, however, practical experience shows that it would be safer to wait two or three days.

Manufacturers offer two main types of self-leveling mixtures. Under a laminate or other coating, use the option for rough leveling. If we are talking about how to level a concrete floor in a garage or other similar premises, then they are additionally coated with a mixture for finishing leveling, on which paint, varnish, etc. can be applied.

How to level a concrete floor with expanded clay concrete, plywood without joists and other leveling methods

Another technology for leveling the subfloor is dry screed, which simultaneously serves as thermal and sound insulation. This perfect option for surfaces with significant differences heights After preparing the base, polyethylene is spread over it and log profiles are installed. Granular material is poured between the guides, the excess of which is shifted in the direction of exit.

Special sheets of Superfloor are laid on the backfill material, secured to the guides using self-tapping screws. The joints are taped.

Expanded clay concrete floors

Using the same technology, the floor is leveled with expanded clay concrete. The difference lies in the composition of the solution. During its preparation, fine expanded clay (up to 5 mm) is additionally added. As a result specific gravity decreases, since the solution will contain hollow components - expanded clay granules. At the same time, the pressure on the rough surface is reduced.

The disadvantage of this method is its low mechanical strength. It can only be used for private houses or apartments. If the critical pressure value is exceeded, local destruction of the floor will occur.

Screed with expanded clay can be done in other ways:

• The entire surface of the base is covered with a layer of expanded clay 80–100 mm high, leveled and filled with a layer of PCB.
• Expanded clay is scattered over the floor surface, leveled and watered with laitance. Give time to “set” and pour sand cement screed, which is then leveled.
• Initially, an expanded clay-sand-cement layer of the required thickness is laid on the concrete base. After about a day, the hardened layer is filled with leveling PCB.

Attention

You cannot fill when negative temperatures. The water will crystallize, which will lead to the destruction of the leveling layer.

Using plywood

A special feature of this method is the increased requirements for the foundation. The level of height difference should not exceed 1.5 cm. However, unlike the methods described above, plywood has several positive qualities.

The main one is good level thermal insulation. Together with the previously installed insulation, they will reduce heat loss in the room; plywood also has soundproofing properties. After its installation, the noise level in the room should decrease.

Before leveling a concrete floor with plywood without joists, you need to select the appropriate material. It must have moisture resistance and sufficient mechanical strength.

To protect against moisture, the cement base is covered with plastic film. The floor is first dried. Then you need to do the following.

1. Prepare a diagram for the arrangement of plywood sheets. According to the received plan, the material is purchased.
2. Installation of sheets is carried out butt-butt. You can use construction tape to seal the seams.
3. Fastening to the base is done using dowels. Installation with glue is not recommended, since cement floors and plywood have different meaning thermal expansion.

After final installation, it is necessary to check the level of the plane again. If the height difference remains the same, a different leveling technology should be used. It consists of installing joists onto which sheets of plywood will later be attached.

After installing the leveling coating, it is necessary to reduce the likelihood of moisture entering the concrete surface. To do this, plywood panels must be sealed as much as possible.

In practice, there are many ways to level a concrete floor. But the above are the most effective and less labor-intensive.

Watch how to properly level a concrete floor video.

Whatever covering you choose for the floor in your apartment, you need to level the base underneath it. Then linoleum, laminate or ceramic tiles will lay beautifully and last a long time. Different types finishes also have different requirements for surface quality, so leveling the floor with your own hands can be done in several ways. The main materials are plywood, concrete, and sometimes gypsum fiber board. But before laying them, preparation will be needed in any case.

Correction of rough surfaces using any of the schemes listed below requires assessment and measurement of irregularities. This will help to accurately calculate the degree of leveling that a concrete floor needs, and select for this the best way and determine the amount of building materials.

Unevenness in an apartment can be easily measured using a long rod. A two-meter plank is laid on the concrete base in different directions, and the detected vertical gaps are determined with a ruler. In panel-type houses there is no need for such difficulties - the floors themselves are quite smooth. Problems arise only if the slabs were initially laid incorrectly.

Before leveling begins, the concrete floor should be thoroughly cleaned. After this, the base must be repaired if its condition is unsatisfactory. All cracks and chips must be puttied or covered with ordinary tile adhesive. It is better to knock off the bumps with a chisel to reduce the consumption of leveling agents. concrete mixtures or not damage the plywood.

Log system

Leveling the floor with the help of logs is required when there is a large difference in levels in the neighboring rooms of the apartment - about 8-10 cm. Most often, such work needs to be done when redeveloping the premises and attaching a loggia, the floor of which is located lower than in living rooms Oh. Beams 50x70 or 50x50 mm are suitable as logs, on which it is convenient to attach sheets of plywood.

Leveling the floor with joists. Instructions:

1. Prepare sockets for anchors under cross beams in increments of 60-70 cm.

2. Wooden sheathing Protect from contact with concrete with a layer of waterproofing.

3. Place beams on the floor every 50 cm, press tightly and secure with anchor bolts.

4. Place the first longitudinal beam at the highest point of the transverse row and level it, checking the level. If the block needs to be raised, use mounting wedges.

5. At the same time, the second beam is laid at the opposite wall.

6. Lay intermediate logs in 50 cm increments, level them, checking their level.

7. The final stage– laying sheets of plywood on the floor. Instead of plywood, you can use cheaper chipboard under the laminate or cover the base with boards.

If the apartment is cold, thermal insulation (mineral wool or polystyrene foam boards) should be laid under the covering between the joists of the bottom row.

Dry screed

Fast and easy way level the concrete floor with height differences from 3 to 5 cm. For work you will need finely ground bulk material: expanded clay, sand or slag, sheets of plywood or gypsum fiber board. The next technology is simple:

1. Place glassine or waterproofing film no thinner than 200 microns on the base. The sheets should be laid overlapping and with a bend of about 8 cm on the walls.

2. Glue edge tape around the perimeter of the room.

3. Install leveling beacons on the concrete floor in accordance with the zero mark determined during measurements. If everything is fine with your eye, you can skip this step.

4. Fill the gaps between the slats with loose mass. Use any available tool to compact and level the sand.

5. Lay plywood, chipboard or any other on top sheet material. Plywood for the floor should be at least 1 cm thick.

Such a budget option leveling, however, is quite reliable under linoleum, carpet or laminate. It is not advisable to use it only for laying tiles. If there is a relatively small difference in height, it is easier to make a traditional screed for it.

Leveling the floor with plywood without joists can be done without removing the furniture from the room, but doing everything in parts. But the main thing is that dry screed has good thermal insulation properties and does not require other insulation of the floor under the coating.

Self-leveling floor

Quite an expensive way to level a concrete floor yourself. Due to the high cost of self-leveling mixtures and their high consumption for square meter area, it is advisable to use this technology only for small irregularities up to 3 cm.

At the same time, cheaper cement-containing compositions (Osnovit T-45, Bepors) after hardening form a perfectly flat surface for any coating - be it hard laminate boards or thin linoleum without a backing. And polymer self-leveling floors ( liquid linoleum) and are an excellent finishing touch in themselves.

When the concrete floor is ready for leveling, it must be covered with soil and allowed to dry for about a day. When working with the leveling mixture, the apartment should be warm enough, but not hot. Optimal temperature– +10-30°С.

We level the floor under linoleum with our own hands:

1. Dilute the leveling mixture with water according to the instructions and mix thoroughly with a drill and a mixer attachment. Leave for a couple of minutes until the solution is well absorbed.

2. While the composition is settling in the first container, start preparing the second portion.

3. The finished solution is mixed again and poured onto the concrete floor in a narrow strip of about 30-40 cm - so that it is convenient to level each portion with a spatula.

4. Roll the mixture on the floor with a long-handled needle roller and release air bubbles. Particular care must be taken to roll out the boundaries of adjacent batches.

5. After filling the entire area, use a roller to smooth out the fresh compound again. Everything needs to be done within half an hour, until the solution has time to set.

6. A couple of hours after pouring, cover the entire area with film. This way, the new concrete floor will not dry out too quickly and the coating will not crack.

In the case when finishing was chosen tile, its laying can be done within 3 days after the concrete floor has hardened. And when leveling it under laminate or linoleum, you will have to wait about a week.

Advice: if the concrete coating was not carefully rolled with a needle roller, and small bumps appeared, they can be smoothed out with a grindstone.

Concrete screed

In old-built apartments, this leveling method is not applicable, as it significantly increases the load on dilapidated load-bearing structures. But in a private house, and even on the ground floor, a concrete floor screed is quite acceptable and inexpensive option. Conventional pouring of concrete allows leveling differences in heights of up to 6 cm. Although this process, of course, is labor-intensive and time-consuming.

Before pouring the solution, the base must be covered with two layers of soil, each completely dry. For this, traditional Concrete Contact (TM Lakra) is used. Expansion joints are left along the contour of the future screed, so damper tape will need to be glued at the junction of the floor and walls.

You can combine floor leveling with insulation. To do this, lay on the rough base heat insulating material(expanded clay or expanded polystyrene) and waterproofing. After all preparatory work has been carried out, leveling cement-sand screed is performed according to this scheme:

1. Installation of beacons (metal or cement) in increments of 1 to 3 m.

2. Preparation of the leveling solution. It will require 1 part cement and 3-4 parts sand. To make the screed easier and reduce the thermal conductivity of concrete, sand can be partially replaced with small expanded clay granules.

3. Laying on the floor ready-made composition in the spaces between the beacons and its leveling with a broad rule.

4. Re-priming.

5. Applying a thin layer of leveling mixture if the floor needs to be perfectly leveled before finishing. From use finishing fill The screed can be abandoned, replacing it with a more labor-intensive, but completely free grout.

It will be difficult to carry out all the “wet” leveling processes yourself - the cement mortar hardens quite quickly, so it’s worth inviting a partner or finding a way to level the floor under the laminate without a screed.

When choosing a method for leveling concrete surfaces, you first need to focus on the thickness of the required layer. Naturally, the smaller it is, the cheaper and faster it is possible to correct the builders’ mistakes. In any case, it will be easier to level a concrete floor than to regularly replace linoleum that has broken through on bumps or cracked laminate.

It is equally relevant for owners of apartments in old buildings and for residents of new buildings. The first ones are looking for an answer because the base coating in their living quarters is in a deplorable state due to already quite long periods of use (and, perhaps, it was never good, even in the years of its “youth”), but the second ones need to know this by the reason is that, despite the use of new technologies, the quality of finishing, even in newly commissioned buildings, is still far from ideal. While modern floor coverings sometimes require an almost flat surface. How to create acceptable conditions for them? What to do? How to level a concrete floor and what is the best way to do it? You will find the answer to all these questions in our review.

We evaluate the existing surface and select a new floor covering

It is worth noting that the alignment procedure can sometimes be quite expensive and quite lengthy. That is why, in order to reduce material and time costs, you need to be able to correctly assess the situation. That is, carefully examine the existing base and decide what kind of flooring will be used. As for the first one. The base surface may be different. Sometimes it is in quite good condition with the exception of some places covered with cracks. Or there are only small protrusions and depressions on it. In such cases, you can get by with little damage by leveling the floor locally, as they say, according to indications. If there are significant defects on the base coating, as well as huge differences in height, you will naturally have to level it from corner to corner. Now as for finishing materials. Some floor coverings are very demanding on the base. Take the same laminate. Even a slight difference of just five millimeters can nullify all finishing work. A laminate laid on such a base can simply become deformed and crack at the seams after a year. While linoleum is not afraid of such minor defects. So it depends on the choice of the final flooring and directly the state of the base foundation itself, and you need to start, looking for an answer to the question of how and with what to level the concrete floor.

Variants of irregularities that require elimination

So, what kind of concrete floor needs to be leveled? It is necessary to put in order the basis that has:

• Roughness, chips, various cracks.
• All kinds of protrusions or holes that are noticeable upon visual inspection.
• Sloping or differences in height.

Depending on the existing defects, the leveling method and the material needed for the work are selected.

Types of alignment

If the floor does not have any significant differences in height, but has some defects such as cracks, then they are repaired using a self-made composition or epoxy concrete, having carried out some preliminary work to prepare the base. Local protrusions and holes are sealed in the same way. Height differences are eliminated by dry screed, leveling with beacons or using a self-leveling compound.

Getting rid of cracks

Such defects can appear both on an old foundation and on a recently poured one if the stages or requirements were violated technological process. Therefore, every master needs to know how to get rid of cracks on a concrete floor. So, you can’t just cover them up from above. Firstly, you need to carefully tap the entire surface of the crack, and in a very unique way - you need to drive the chisel as deep as possible into the defect using a hammer. Thanks to this procedure, firstly, you will be able to detect chips hidden under the defect, and secondly, you will create the necessary gap for the mixture. After the preparatory work has been carried out, you need to carefully remove all pieces of concrete, clean the cavities from dirt and dust, and fill them with water. After drying, the entire surface must be primed. The Grund composition is ideal for these purposes. Then you need to mix M400 cement with water. The solution should have the consistency of liquid sour cream. And then you should add to it liquid glass or PVA glue. The amount of additional ingredient must be equal to the volume of the prepared mixture. Then you need to fill the cracks with the resulting solution, wait until it dries and sand the surface. You don’t have to widen very small cracks, but simply seal them with any brand of tile adhesive, not forgetting to prime them first.

Filling up the holes

If the floor surface is fairly flat, then screeding is not necessary. All you have to do is get rid of the holes. To do this, their walls and bottom need to be treated with a grinder to remove chips and weak layers. After this, the pit must be cleaned of pieces of concrete, dirt and dust, filled with water, and primed after drying. You need to pour dry fine crushed stone into a fairly thin layer at the bottom, and then seal the defect with epoxy concrete. The domestic composition “Kleypol” is perfect for these purposes. Fill the hole with it so that the solution does not reach the top by two centimeters. After drying (after about an hour), we compare the surface using a special concrete putty. Experts recommend paying attention to the Elakor-ED brand.

As for the bumps, it is enough to grind them down with a grinding machine, clean them, prime them, and then level the surface using the same Elakor.

Dry screed

How and with what can you level a concrete floor if you have little time and don’t really want to tinker with solutions? Make a dry screed. This procedure is quite simple, so almost any home craftsman can handle it. The principle is the following. The base base is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust. Then a waterproofing film is laid on it (you can use regular thick polyethylene). Then a dry leveling mixture is poured over the entire surface in a layer five centimeters thick. It can be made of expanded clay, granulate, quartz sand or even expanded polystyrene. And on top they are already laid on the logs and secured with self-tapping screws either plywood or fiberboard sheets, or moisture resistant drywall. But it is best to use a special sheet material called “Superfloor” for these purposes. After dry screeding, you can almost immediately lay the finishing floor covering. Experts recommend that home craftsmen first consider this method, since you can level a concrete floor with your own hands using this method without any problems.

Beacon screed

Since it is sometimes almost impossible to level floors using less expensive methods, you will have to consider a method such as pouring a new floor using beacons. Concerning financial side question, then it is not so scary, but the procedure will require significant time expenditure. In addition, in this case you need to have at least minimal skills in working with beacons and cement mortar. What should be done? First of all, clean and prime the base. Then mark up, preferably using laser level, and stretch guide threads for beacons between the walls in the direction from the window to the door. And after that, install perforated guides along them on the floor, using cement (possibly gypsum) mortar for fastening. The step between each beacon should not be more than one meter. After which you need to prepare a solution of M400 cement (the amount of water will be indicated on the packaging), pour it between installed profiles and align with the rule, moving backwards in the direction from the window to the door. This screed takes quite a long time to dry; in addition, it must be moistened with water for the first three days. However, this particular method is quite inexpensive and allows you to get a really smooth and durable coating. Therefore, if you have enough time and do not know, for example, how to level a concrete floor under a laminate, adopt this method.

As for lighthouses, some craftsmen leave them inside. However, experts recommend that you still take out the profile and fill the voids with tile adhesive. A budget-friendly one is perfect for these purposes, but no less durable composition"Lux".

Self-leveling floor

If the height difference is no more than five centimeters, and free funds are available, a leveling mixture for a concrete floor is ideal for arranging the base surface. It is quite expensive, but it is easy to work with, and the alignment procedure does not take much time. As for technology, you need to start, as always, with preparation. The base needs to be cleaned and primed. Then you need to mark using a laser level, drawing lines on the walls along which the upper boundaries of the new floor will pass. After this, you need to mix the solution according to the instructions on the package. The best mixtures for leveling, according to experts, these are self-levelers Ceresit CN 69 and Ceresit CN 68, Vetonit 3000, EK FT03 FINISH. Many masters also praise the more budget-friendly domestic mixtures produced under the “Starateli” brand. So, we start the alignment with far corner, pouring the solution onto the floor and leveling the coating (according to the applied markings), first with a rule, and then with a special roller with needles.

How to level a concrete floor under laminate

Laminate is perhaps the most capricious floor covering, requiring an almost perfectly flat base. What is the best way to level a concrete floor for it? By and large, in this case, any of the three methods described above will do. However, there is another option. You can try leveling the concrete floor with plywood. Unlike the same tiles, laminate does not require the use of mortar when laying, so the presence under this coating wooden sheets will not affect the quality of the base in any way. But the alignment method itself is quite simple and fast. The concrete base is cleaned of dirt, primed, after which sheets of moisture-resistant plywood are laid on it without any fastenings (a thickness of 10 mm will be sufficient), and according to the same principle as laminate (so that the seams of the elements do not coincide, but are staggered) . After this, another layer is laid, but so that its joints do not coincide with those of the lower layer. This plywood is already attached to bottom sheets self-tapping screws. After installation, you need to go over the seams with a sander in order to finally level the subfloor.

A few words about the loggia

On the loggia you can also use all the methods described above. However, many experts consider it very attractive to level the concrete floor in this room using the same plywood, but on joists. How do they base their choice? Because thanks to this method, you can additionally insulate the floor of the loggia by laying appropriate material between the joists. Let's say foam plastic, mineral wool. Or professional, but more expensive TechnoNIKOL insulation.

... about the garage

It is quite clear that no one is laying laminate or parquet in this room. The floor here is usually made of concrete. The main requirements for the base are that it be level. And, of course, durable. How to level It is best to do it and then cover it with a special layer of hardener - the so-called topping - which will protect the surface from damage. The best compositions mixtures of Caparol-Disbon, Neodur (Korodur), MasterTop (BASF) and domestic “Herkulit” and “Reflor” are considered.

...and about ceramics

If you plan to lay ceramic tiles on concrete and the base itself is not particularly crooked, you can level the floor during the process by adding more or less tile adhesive under level control. True, this method is applicable only if the differences are no more than three centimeters. In addition, if you decide to resort to this method, you need to buy only high-quality, with improved characteristics, for example, intended for Ceresite, which is ideal for these purposes.

Conclusion

We tried to talk in sufficient detail about how and what is the best way to level a concrete floor in a given case. In addition, we touched upon issues of leveling technology and named brands the best materials used when carrying out this type of work. We hope you can now easily select suitable option for your specific case. After all, you already know as well as any professional how and with what to level a concrete floor.

In this article I want to tell you and show you how to level a concrete floor quickly, efficiently and without large financial costs in almost any room. And anyone can do all this on their own.

Preparation of concrete surface and materials

Our floor looked like this

Let's start turning it into something suitable for . (or other covering at your discretion).

We clean the floor from dust and dirt in advance. We fill large chips and cracks with putty. We treat the entire surface of the concrete floor with a primer deep penetration. 24 hours after priming, you can begin leveling the concrete floor. It is recommended to glue the bottom of the walls with a special tape, but this is not necessary.

To level the existing one, we will use the self-leveling, quick-hardening Osnovit T-45 Skorline mixture.

Available in 20 kg packages. The cost of one package is approximately 250 rubles. In order to level the concrete floor, we needed to level and raise the floor by about 1 cm. The area of ​​the room is 12 square meters. The consumption of this mixture is small compared to other manufacturers - 13 kilograms of mixture per 1 square meter, with a layer of 1 cm. To level the concrete base in our case, you will need 156 kg of the mixture, which means 8 bags. Just in case, we bought another bag of mixture, but it was not useful. At a cost of 250 rubles per bag, we will spend 2000 rubles on a room. Agree, this is not much.

In addition, we will need a needle roller with a long handle. Its cost is about 250 rubles.

Drill with an attachment (attachment 250 rubles) for mixing the solution.

And containers for preparing the solution. We bought 2 containers of 20 liters each costing 130 rubles. We will also need so-called paint shoes. But, since the nearest stores did not have them, I made them with my own hands. To do this, you will need two planks the length and width of your foot, and 12 screws each. for each and regular tape. We screw the screws into the board; when needed, we tape it to the legs. The main thing is not to do this ahead of time, so as not to spoil it in the other rooms.

Procedure for leveling a concrete floor

So let's get started. You need to prepare the water in advance, as the mixture begins to thicken quite quickly. Water consumption is 7 liters per 1 bag.
The work will require at least 2 people; it is difficult to do it alone. To level the concrete floor, carefully pour the contents of one bag into a bucket with clean water at the rate of 1 kilogram of dry mixture per 350-370 ml clean water(for 1 bag – 7 liters of water). At the same time, stir the mixture with a mixer.
Mix until a homogeneous mass is formed. We wait 1-2 minutes.

At this time, pour the second bag into another container and mix, allowing the solution to settle in the first container. After 2-3 minutes, mix the solution in the first container again, and if there are no lumps, the solution is ready for use.

It is advisable to use the solution within 40 minutes. Be sure to stir immediately before use.

While one person prepares the concrete floor, the second person pours the finished mixture onto the floor, starting from the far end of the room, wearing paint shoes so that they can walk on the poured solution without leaving marks. Each portion of the poured solution must be rolled with a needle roller for better spreading and removal of possible air bubbles. And we do this with the entire quantity.

The entire filling took us 40-50 minutes. When the entire area of ​​the room is filled, roll it over several times with a needle roller. Removing air bubbles from the mixture to prevent further cracking of the floor. This mixture is good because you can walk on it in just 2!!! hours. And the thickness of the mixture is from 2 mm to 100 mm.

If the room is very hot, after 2-3 hours you need to cover the entire area of ​​the room with plastic wrap. This procedure is necessary in order to protect the surface from drying out too quickly. If this is not done, cracks may form.

Final works

After we have leveled the concrete floor:

Ceramic tiles can be laid after 3 days.

Parquet, laminate, carpet, linoleum, cork covering in 7 days.

The mixture finally dries out after 28 days. So, ours. This is what it looks like a few minutes after pouring is complete. Almost like a mirror.

And this is what it looks like after 2 hours.

You can already walk on it. This is especially true for walk-through rooms. A total of 12 square meters per room. m. we spent approximately 3,000 rubles and 2 hours of our time. Economical and very high quality.

In some places there were small bumps. This is a consequence of the fact that they were rolled poorly with a roller. But this defect can be easily removed with a large sandpaper or a stone.

A level floor is not only an indicator quality repairs, but ensures a long service life of all types of coatings. Final installation flooring should be carried out exclusively on level and smooth surface. In apartments, houses, offices and garages, the base for flooring is presented in the form of concrete slabs, which are not smooth in structure, they may have defects and are often located on a slope. Therefore everything construction works They begin with leveling the concrete surface. There are many ways and technologies for this.

Peculiarities

Owners of newly acquired apartments, as well as those who have housing that requires overhaul, first of all, you need to solve the issue of leveling the concrete floor. Only after the base for laying the finishing coating becomes level, will it be possible to begin its further finishing and decoration. If it is not leveled, the new floor will not last long; in addition, in the future there will be problems with installing doors, arranging furniture and appliances.

Concrete flooring is not ideal, so small chips, cracks, bumps and roughness may often appear during its use. In addition, there are also significant defects such as holes, sagging, bevels to the side or differences in height.

Depending on the degree of surface unevenness and the number of potholes, the appropriate concrete leveling method is selected and construction work is carried out.

If there are observed in the apartment big differences levels, then use a dry screed, which not only perfectly levels, but also provides good heat and sound insulation. A liquid solution prepared on the basis of cement will also help to effectively eliminate defects. Not a bad option A self-leveling mixture is also considered; it is evenly distributed over the entire surface, as a result of which any degrees of curvature are removed. To "hide" small cracks, putty will do. Typically, the leveling process is as follows: the concrete surface is thoroughly cleaned of grease, paint and dust, putty is applied, then the most suitable method is used to eliminate unevenness.

Device

The floor is the most important floor in the house. As a rule, its base is represented by concrete, which is made from cement and various fillers. To ensure that concrete meets all operational requirements, water-repellent components and hardening accelerators are also added to it. This base is characterized by increased resistance to chemical and mechanical influences, as well as durability.

To concrete surface served reliably long term, during its installation it is necessary to comply with all technological processes.

There are two types of flooring: floor laid on concrete plates and beams, as well concrete pouring which is carried out on the ground. In addition, the coating can be made underground or made monolithic.

The latter is the most popular and consists of the following layers:

• priming;
• clean sand;
• rough screed;
• steam and waterproofing;
• cement pouring;
• finishing coating.

Before starting work, the old floor is dismantled and the base is prepared. If the surface is not damaged, you can immediately begin leveling. In a private house, when pouring onto the ground, you will first need to do drainage works. To do this, place a layer of sand at least 5 cm thick under the base, then add a layer of stone or expanded clay, its height should not exceed 10 cm.

For better compaction of the surface, a special active machine is used. To further protect the surface from damage, it is impregnated with polystyrene concrete.

The rough layer acts as the basis for installing waterproofing. It is placed on top of expanded clay or stone and covered with a special film. Often, instead of a rough screed, ordinary cement mortar is used, which cannot be covered.

When pouring concrete, mandatory installation of insulation is required. It can be done using bitumen, roofing felt or membrane. Waterproofing must be laid hermetically, excluding the penetration of moisture.

In addition, you will also need thermal insulation, for which you use:

• expanded polystyrene;
• perlite;
• mineral wool;
• plywood sheets;
• Styrofoam.

After installing all types of insulation, a cement screed is applied and the installation of metal reinforcement begins. For residential rooms will do wire with a diameter of no more than 3 mm, and on the balcony you can use a mesh with 5x5 cm cells. If you plan to install a “warm floor” system in the apartment, then polyurethane is placed between the walls and the screed. This creates a small gap that will prevent the floor from heating up and protect the concrete from cracking.

When all the above steps are completed, you can proceed to the clean pouring of the base.

The layer of solution should be distributed evenly across the entire horizontal surface. To do all this correctly, it is recommended to set up beacons. The pouring mixture is prepared from crushed stone, sand and cement, while river sand must be used; clay admixtures are not allowed in the solution.

What is the best way to level?

Many people are concerned about the question of which materials and leveling methods are considered the most effective and best. To choose the appropriate option, it is necessary to calculate the surface area and evaluate its defects. For example, the cheapest type for leveling concrete floors is cement mortar. It is preferred if you need to lay it down thick layer finishing for large rooms.

Craftsmen often use tile adhesive for this work, but it is difficult to apply, so leveling the floor using this method requires experience. A self-leveling mixture is also considered a good way to eliminate uneven surfaces; it not only speeds up construction work, but also serves as excellent waterproofing.

If we consider leveling materials in terms of their pouring time and drying time, then there is no difference in them. All solutions and mixtures are used strictly in accordance with construction technologies, so speed up this process impossible.

Methods and stages of work

Today, there are many methods for leveling a concrete floor, the most popular and widely used of them is the use of a self-leveling mixture. Usually, this option chosen when the base has minor flaws and the height of the levels does not exceed 3 cm.

The main advantages of this method include:

• Upon completion of the work, the floor surface looks ideal and noble.
• Affordable price. Not required for leveling additional expenses for the purchase of installation materials.
• The filling technology is simple.
• The mixture dries quickly and reliably serves for many years.

To level the floor using a self-leveling mortar, you must first prepare the surface and cover it with a primer. Then construction tape is glued between the walls and the floor, and all the components of the mixture are mixed.

It should have a homogeneous and thin consistency, so it is recommended to stir not by hand, but using a drill with a special attachment. The finished solution is evenly distributed over the base and leveled with a needle roller. The work must be done very quickly, as the base hardens quickly.

A cement screed will also help to level the concrete floor well. Typically, this option is recommended when unevenness in rooms exceeds 3 cm. Cement mortar All types of unevenness can be eliminated; in addition, it serves as an excellent base for a topcoat. The only disadvantage of this alignment is that it is difficult to perform and the installation process also takes a lot of time.

The work is carried out as follows:

• A primer is applied to the prepared base. This is especially important to do in the kitchen and bathroom, since the humidity in these rooms is always high.
• Beacons are being installed.
• Shock-absorbing tape is glued between the joints of the walls and floor.
• The mixture is being prepared.
• Cover the concrete with mortar and level it in a circular motion.

Sometimes there are rooms in which the level of unevenness exceeds 10 cm. In this situation, only a dry screed can cope with leveling. It is easy to use, does not require drying, and also provides the base with additional thermal insulation. Dry screed is suitable for all types of coatings, but most often it is chosen for wooden floors.

Alignment is carried out as follows:

• The concrete floor is cleaned; if there are cracks, they need to be puttied.
• Primer is applied.
• The level is set.
• Expanded clay or expanded polystyrene is poured.
• Sheets of chipboard or plywood are laid, the joints between them are sealed with PVA glue.

This method Although leveling is characterized by positive aspects, its implementation requires a lot of expense building material. In addition, upon completion of the process, the surface of the flooring will rise significantly, resulting in a smaller room. That's why an excellent alternative dry screed can be laid on the surface of the lag.

Surface preparation

The first step in leveling a concrete floor is preparing its base. In order for the work to be done correctly and efficiently, it is necessary to act in stages. Therefore, first of all, the surface of the old coating is examined, and if it has deformations and defects, it is dismantled. This can be done using a hammer drill. In addition, you will need to carefully seal all the bumps and cracks in the concrete.

The composition of the solution can be different; both gypsum “porridge” and cement mixture. To avoid a crooked surface, grout is done after pouring. After this stage, choose suitable look screeds, and cover the base with it. When the mixture is completely dry, it is covered with plywood; you can also level the finishing floor and OSB panels.