How to update an old cast iron bathtub at home. Do-it-yourself bathtub restoration

Liquid acrylic – modern material, with which you can carry out high-quality restoration of the bathtub with your own hands. It consists of a base having a fairly high density and a hardener. Can be used for the restoration of steel, cast iron and acrylic bathtubs.

Materials and tools

To restore the bathtub, you will need bulk liquid acrylic, cleaning and degreasing products for plumbing fixtures, and soda. Please note that liquid acrylic is sold in containers designed for bathtub sizes - 1.2, 1.5 or 1.7 m.

You need to prepare a tool for work:

• grinder;
• drill;
• whisk attachment;
• pliers;
• sandpaper of various grain sizes;
• rubber spatula;
• respirator;
• vacuum cleaner;
• sponge;
• gloves;
• flashlight.

When using a drill to sand the surface of the bathtub, you will need a special attachment.
Note: construction hair dryer and a stationery knife will be useful for removing non-factory enamel if the bathtub has already been restored.
You also need polyethylene to protect the floor and walls (you can use rags or newspapers).

Preparing the bath

The quality of preparation will depend appearance and service life of the applied coating. First, the overflow and drain are removed. Using a grinder or a drill with a grinding attachment, you need to carefully treat the surface of the bathtub. For this purpose, sandpaper for rough work 40-N or 32-N is used (according to GOST 3647-80). Emery will help remove the formed water raids. The surface after sanding must be rough to ensure good adhesion. liquid acrylic.

Note: non-factory enamel previously applied to restore the bathtub is removed stationery knife after heating with a hairdryer.

The bathtub needs to be cleaned and any remaining debris removed. Then the surface is treated with a plumbing cleaner - the poured product must be spread with a sponge over the entire surface of the bathtub, including the installation location of the removed overflow.

The bath is washed again and left to dry. After drying, proceed to the next important stage works - degreasing. Soda is poured into the bath and coarse sandpaper rub thoroughly over the entire surface.

Perhaps degreasing will need to be done not once, but two or three times. You must work with gloves. Then the bath is thoroughly washed with a stream of water from the shower.

Before the beginning next stage you need to remove the siphon.

The installation site of the siphon must be cleaned, degreased and rinsed from soda residues.

The mixer and shower are covered with a bag and secured with tape - water should not get on the applied layer of liquid acrylic until it dries completely. The tiles and shelves above the bathtub are cleaned of dust particles with a cloth. Do not allow sanding dust to get on the acrylic.

After completing this stage, the bath should be thoroughly dried with a hairdryer. Special attention pay attention to places where water can collect: the joints of the tiles and the bathtub, under the side, which is installed at the junction of the tiles and the bathtub. It is better to remove the rim and carry out the restoration of the bathtub without it. The cement joints at the junction with the bathroom can be dried well with a hairdryer.

To eliminate defects in factory enamel (cracks, chips), use quick-drying automotive putty.

The composition is stirred and rubber spatula Apply to damaged areas and then allow to dry.

While the putty dries, cover the floor under the bathtub and the tiles at the joints with polyethylene or newspapers, which are secured with tape.

So, when pouring liquid acrylic, it will not spoil the flooring and wall tiles.
After the putty has dried, these places are covered with fine sandpaper. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove dust particles from the bathtub.

Use a degreasing agent (acetone) to wipe the areas where cracks and chips have been putty. You should also wipe the installation areas of the overflow and siphon with acetone. Place a container under the drain hole (you can use a cut plastic bottle). Excess liquid acrylic will drain into this container.

Coating

After finishing preparatory work start preparing liquid acrylic. The hardener is added to the material in parts and thoroughly mixed using a drill with a whisk attachment.

It is necessary to achieve complete mixing of the two components, not forgetting about the material in the corners and at the bottom of the jar with liquid acrylic. Otherwise, the layer of applied acrylic will dry unevenly. You need to stir the mixture for 10 minutes.
Important! Don't forget about the pot life ready mixture which is indicated on the packaging. During this time, you need to completely complete the work.
Before pouring the composition is allowed to stand for 5-10 minutes. To work you will need plastic container, into which acrylic is poured. You can use a trimmed and well-wiped hardener bottle. The work is performed wearing medical gloves.
Note: adding coloring paste will allow you to obtain the desired color of the composition. Color paste by weight should not exceed 3% of the total mass of the composition.
The composition is poured around the perimeter of the bath from top to bottom.

Going lower, help yourself with a rubber spatula, with which the acrylic is rubbed into the surface of the bath. Having achieved complete coverage with liquid acrylic, use a spatula to make zigzag movements along the bottom of the bath. Then the composition is leveled with even movements from the wall towards the drain.

The bath is left for 5 minutes. Turn off the light and use a flashlight to check the surface of the bath for defects or irregularities (smudges) that need to be leveled with a spatula.

Important! Air bubbles may have formed when mixing the composition. To remove these bubbles, the surface of the bath is quickly blown with a hairdryer at low speeds.
After 10 minutes, use a flashlight to check the surface again. The bathtub can be used 24-48 hours after complete drying. Until this point, the bathroom must be closed. The drying time of the composition depends on technical characteristics material and temperature regime in room.
Note: Some modern liquid acrylics take 12-16 hours to dry.

The result of the work

As a result of the work done, you will receive a completely restored bathtub with a beautiful appearance, which is guaranteed to last at least 10 years. The bathtub must be washed after each use by special means for caring for acrylic, dishwashing detergents or liquid soap.

Advantages and disadvantages

Advantages of bathtub restoration with liquid acrylic:

• long service life;
• beautiful appearance;
• smooth surface;
• beautiful performance characteristics, primarily mechanical strength;
• possibility of repeated restoration in the future.

A bathtub after restoration will be practically in no way inferior to a new bathtub.
The disadvantages of this technology include:

• the long time required for the surface to dry completely;
• a specific smell when applying and drying liquid acrylic;
• the need to purchase bath care products.

Tricks at work

A high-quality bathtub surface will be obtained by applying the composition in an even, thick layer. Acrylic should flow down on its own. Determine by eye the middle of the side slopes and pour a second portion of the composition onto them. The remaining material is poured to the bottom. This way the entire surface of the bath will be covered with a thick layer of acrylic.

– a durable, wear-resistant and impact-resistant sanitary ware that has been used as a washing container for hundreds of years. Previously, bowls made from this difficult-to-work heavy alloy did not have worthy alternative. But even now, when construction stores are full of more modern and varied steel and acrylic models, they continue to be in demand.

Popularity cast iron bath This is explained by the fact that despite the fairly high cost, it has a long service life and repairability. After 10-15 years of use, when the enamel turns yellow or becomes cracked, to restore the original appearance of the product with your own hands, it is enough to cover the bowl with a new layer of paint.

Features of cast iron baths

Cast iron bathtubs are considered the most popular, as they have a long service life, wear resistance and impact resistance, and also do not require special care. These sanitary products are produced using the casting method.

Cast iron is a material that is very difficult to process, since for all its hardness and great weight it has increased fragility. The greatest difficulties are caused by giving the alloy a round, curved shape, therefore the dimensional and the lineup The bowls made from it are not so varied. The advantages of a cast iron bathtub are:

• Wear resistance. Wash containers made of cast iron can withstand more than 50 years of intensive use, and the strength of the product does not decrease. The enamel fails a little earlier, however, if you repair the bathtub yourself in time, you can completely restore the appearance of the coating.
• Low noise. The thickness of the walls of a cast iron bathtub reaches 8 mm, so they have a low resonating ability. Therefore, when drawing water, there is no strong noise, unlike steel models.
• Maintainability. The enamel of a cast iron bathtub, generated during operation, can be restored with your own hands. Repairs are carried out by enameling, pouring acrylic or installing an acrylic liner.
• Slow cooling. Cast iron is characterized by a low thermal conductivity coefficient, due to which water drawn into a bathtub made of this alloy retains heat for a long time.

Important! Modern models of cast iron washing containers are coated with enamel using the electrostatic method. IN production conditions applied to the bath powder paint, which is under the influence high temperature melted and then baked. High-quality factory enamel lasts at least 10 years if you follow the recommendations for the care and use of the product. When chips appear on the old coating, you can repair the enamel yourself.

Damage to enamel

The enamel applied to the surface of a cast-iron bathtub in a factory is considered to be quite wear-resistant and reliable; after 10-15 years of use, even if all the manufacturer’s recommendations are followed, it will lose its original appearance.

To restore the top coating, you can repair the bowl yourself by applying new paint. Over time, the following defects appear on the inner surface of the bath:

Note! If minor defects appear on the surface of the enamel coating, it is better to immediately perform an inexpensive, but efficient repair– enameling a bathtub at home. Restoration performed on time allows you to delay a more global method of restoration using an acrylic liner.

Enameling technology

The technology for enameling a cast-iron bathtub at home differs from the factory one, since special equipment is used in production. Coating the inner surface of a sanitary bowl consists of 4 main stages: preparing the container, mixing the compound, applying paint and drying.

Each of these processes is important; the stability and durability of the result depends on the correct execution of operations. To repair the bathtub cover yourself, you need to:

Please note that it is better to repair the bowl using special enamel designed for restoring bathtubs. Some craftsmen recommend using cheaper paint for yachts and sailboats, however, it will not last as long.

Features of the technology

Repairing a cast iron bathtub using the enameling method with your own hands is simple and effective way restoration of the appearance of the product. With minimal financial investment, it allows you to avoid replacing the old washing container, reducing the cost of bathroom renovations.

This operation can be successfully performed with your own hands if you follow the technology for applying enamel. Enameling technology at home has the following features:

Experienced craftsmen claim that this method of restoring a cast-iron bathtub has only one drawback - the drying time. However, this small minus is compensated inexpensive price, ease of application and long lasting results.

Video instruction

Dear visitor, in this article we talk about existing methods restoration of bathtubs, compare technologies, advantages and disadvantages of methods.

If you have already decided on the choice of bathtub restoration method and you are interested in prices, then you can find them on the page "Bathtub restoration price"

We will not describe the reasons why your bathtub has lost its whiteness and shine, whether due to bad water or aggressive detergents or, the enamel has worn off or become cracked.
Let’s just confront ourselves with the fact that the bathtub in this state doesn’t suit you and “you need to do something about it” :).

Restore the bathtub or buy a new one?

And, it would seem. Here is a bathtub that has been in the house for 30-40 years. Why not save some money and buy a new one just like it. You look at it for another ten years and it will stand...
This is usually the very first idea that comes to people's minds when faced with this situation.
And when we are asked about this on the phone, we usually explain why this seemingly a good option doesn't suit most people.
And it's not all about the price. new bath, (it is usually more expensive than the restoration of a bathtub, see “prices”), but the fact is that such bathtubs were made using the same technologies and that in the country of the “USSR”. You won't find it in any store. They haven't been released for about 10 years now. They haven't been released at all.

And the strength of enamel is modern baths so dubious that you often wonder whether it’s worth overpaying. We are asked to restore bathtubs that were purchased less than 4 years ago, the enamel of which has already been “eaten through” to the cast iron frame.
Well, if we talk about the price. It is worth considering that when purchasing new bath, in addition to the hassle of installation and dismantling, in its pure form you only get a renewed white layer of enamel.
Well, since it’s only a matter of the enamel layer, maybe it’s worth “changing” only that?

As we wrote earlier, in this article we will consider restoration methods where the enamel coating is directly renewed, while preserving the old bathtub body, be it cast iron or iron.

We will also consider only those methods that can be done at home.

So, to restore a bathtub, iron or cast iron, first let’s list all the methods: - (when the enamel is applied with a brush, roller, spray gun.) - (aka the “Bathtub in a Bathtub” method) - (aka: filling the bathtub with liquid acrylic, stacrylic, self-leveling enamel. "Pour-in bath") - (The method is extremely specific and not particularly practical, but worth mentioning)

Let's look at the methods in more detail, compare prices and draw some conclusions for ourselves:

A method for restoring a bathtub using enamel.

Bathtub enamel or classic enamel is the most old way restoration. In those Soviet times, when new bathtubs were “impossible to get” and I didn’t want to swim in a rough bathtub, the first thing that came to mind for those savvy people was “why don’t we just paint the old bathtub???”. And so they did. Of course, paint differs from paint, and not every color paint will do for enameling a bathtub, but in principle the process technology is similar to the banal painting of any surface. Depending on the quality and manufacturer of the bath enamel, a bath restored in this way will last from 1 to 5 years on average.

Disadvantages of enameling

• Turns yellow - Epoxy enamels tend to turn yellow over time
• The appearance of cracks - “Hard” enamel is very sensitive to impacts, and chips are possible over time.
• Long drying time - (You can use the bathtub only after 5-7 days)
• Copies factory casting - The enamel does not hide the factory unevenness of the bathtub, any bulges or depressions can stand out

The cost of this method usually depends on the enamel used to cover this bath and usually ranges from 3000 (the cheapest paints) to 4900 (good, foreign ones).
Since the main criterion of this method is “cheap”, usually no additional payments are provided, the only thing is that if you have previously enameled your bathtub, then the craftsmen charge an additional payment for this, for stripping the old layer (400 - 500 rubles ).

What you should pay attention to:

• It is important to use enamel designed specifically for baths. Only they are safe for humans. Almost everyone else when in contact with hot water, secrete toxic enzymes.
• The bathtub should be covered with at least 2 layers, ideally 4.
• It’s worth taking your time and holding out full term drying established by the enamel manufacturer.

Acrylic insert, "Bath in bath", Acrylic insert - many names, displays one meaning. This is a restoration process when a new plastic trough is inserted into the inner surface of the bathtub, repeating its shape. This trough is glued to a special foam to your bathtub and, according to the manufacturers and craftsmen, the installer should last about 15 years.

Advantages:

• Acrylic, unlike enamel, is a much more plastic substance and is not as susceptible to chipping as enamel.
• Always white - Plastic does not turn yellow over time.
• Perfectly flat surface.

Flaws:

• The voids between the liner and the cast iron bathtub, into which water can enter and begin to rot.
• It is prohibited to install in steel baths.
• Mandatory dismantling of the old drain siphon.
• The liner is held in the bath on a special adhesive foam. And over time it tends to peel off.
• Clearances between the wall and the bathtub are required (minimum 3cm).

At first glance, the cost of installing an acrylic liner does not seem high. Typically, installer companies announce a price in the range of 4,000 - 4,700 rubles. But it is worth paying attention that often these prices are indicated only for delivery, lifting and installation of the liner. You should be prepared for additional expenses, such as “the arrival of a surveyor-consultant” - (usually 500 rubles). You may also have to pay extra for dismantling the old drain siphon and installing a new one (from 600 to 1,200 rubles). Well, if the bathtub is built into tiles, then you will also have to pay extra for its dismantling (usually 300 - 600 rubles per wall).

There are rumors on specialized forums that some unscrupulous installers dismantle the drain siphon, deliberately damaging sewer pipe. Thereby increasing the cost of work significantly.

Paint positive properties Acrylic (as a material) can take a long time, and in principle, the idea of ​​​​installing a liner in the bathtub is not bad at all. But as time has shown, there is a drawback in this method that reduces the service life of such a bathtub to 3-5 years. This is the glue that is used to attach the liner to the bathtub and the not perfectly smooth surface of the bathtub.
What is this shortcoming? The moment you step on the bottom of the bathtub in which the liner is installed, its surface microbends; when you leave the bathtub, it bends in the opposite direction. In those places where the bathtub comes into contact with the liner, these bends are minimal; in the same places where there is factory unevenness, the amplitude of the deflection is greater.
Polyurethane foam, which is applied to the inner surface and is designed to hold the liner inside and successfully copes with this in the first or second year. But time passes and from constant “stomping” on the bottom of the bathtub, it begins to peel off and voids appear in the cavities, into which water begins to enter. What happens next, I think there is no point in telling, the water in the voids rots over time, and the smell is incredible.
Such problems with liners appear regularly, and manufacturers and inventors, having thought twice, decided to somehow get rid of the weak connecting link, the glue. That's how it was invented new way restoration of bathtubs with liquid acrylic. About the method below...

Restoration method: Liquid acrylic.

This restoration method is also called acrylic enamel. And knowing how it's done classic method, you can understand this one too.
In a nutshell, this is approximately the same material from which acrylic liners are made, it is very similar to plastic, but it is produced in a liquid state. In "raw"; looks like "condensed milk". Well, it is applied to the bathtub using the “pouring” method, if you look at the pink picture on the left, it approximately reflects this procedure.

Advantages:

• Drying time - Can usually be used after 36 hours
• There is no layer of glue between the bathtub and the acrylic. This makes the coating stronger.
• Liquid acrylic inherits good qualities acrylic liner, it also does not turn yellow over time, retains heat well in the bath and is resistant to acidic detergents.
• Both cast iron and iron bathtubs can be restored.

Flaws

• It is advisable to remove the drain siphon.
• Self-leveling acrylic completely copies the curves of the bathtub and if there are factory unevenness on the bathtub, they can be noticeable.

The cost of the method of restoring bathtubs with liquid, bulk acrylic (method self-filling bath) is usually 3500 - 4100 rubles. Depending on the size of the bathtub, on the used self-leveling acrylic. Usually the prices for this type of restoration are predictable, the only thing is that, as with enameling, if you have previously enameled a bathtub, you will need an additional payment (400 - 500 rubles) and if you need to dismantle the old drain siphon, then the craftsmen also charge an additional payment for this work (400 - 700 rubles )
Liquid acrylic is relative new material. Manufacturers often change their compositions, as they say “to improve quality,” but in reality this is not always the case. Unfortunately, you need to regularly monitor the quality of liquid acrylic. It has already been noticed several times that after a renowned manufacturer updates the composition of its acrylics, their quality drops. Moreover, the manufacturer himself will never admit such a jamb. So our advice to craftsmen, in order not to listen to bad words from customers, check each batch of material you buy.

Have you decided to make a small renovation in the bathroom, but you don’t have enough money for a new bathtub, and the old one is already yellowed, cracked or rough?

It’s okay, especially since manufacturers have not yet come up with anything better than a cast-iron bathtub, but we’ll now figure out how to update the bathtub with our own hands.

What's wrong with your bathroom?

• the enamel has become rough over time - restoration is required;
• enamel absorbs rust, dirt and is difficult to wash - the bathtub needs to be updated;
• because of incorrect installation bathtubs, there is water at the bottom and does not drain, which is why the stain appeared. This problem can be solved by using a slight slope;
• the paint in the bathroom has peeled off, here you can either re-enamel it or install it;
• you steel bath, in which the water makes a lot of noise, cools quickly, and rust appears - this will help you acrylic liner, which will make the bath warmer, thicker and quieter.

How can you restore a bathtub without significant expenses yourself?

The question of how to update a cast iron bathtub has only 3 answers:

• buy a new bathtub, but, alas, it is expensive;
• updating the bathtub with acrylic;
• Enamel the bathtub yourself.

Which method is better to choose?

In order to answer the question of how to update a bathroom yourself, and which method to choose for this, you need to understand all the advantages and disadvantages of each type of restoration, compare their price and service life.

Buying a new bath

Pros:

• We only have one – it’s still a new bathtub;

Minuses:

• high price;
• you also need to pay for the delivery, lifting and installation of the bathtub;
• needs to be dismantled and removed old bath;
• dirt, a lot of dust;
• After installation you will need a cap. renovation of the entire bathroom;
• it is difficult to clean the bathtub from rust and dirt;
• short service life modern models baths - about 15 years.

Pros:

• does not absorb rust, dirt, does not turn yellow over time;
• low price;
• you can use the bathroom a day after installation;
• easy to clean;
• excellent sound insulation properties;
• retains heat better than a cast iron bathtub;
• no need to dismantle the old bathtub;
• no cap required renovation of the entire bathroom;
• The service life of the liner is guaranteed to be 20 years.

Minuses:

• This acrylic liner is only suitable for bathtubs standard sizes(you can order it according to your size, but the cost will be more expensive);
• requires careful care.

Enameling an old bathtub

Pros:

• This is the cheapest method to update an old bathtub;
• no need to dismantle the old bathtub;
• no cap required bathroom renovation;
• the enameling process itself takes 3-4 hours;
• after 24 hours you can use the bathroom;
• you can choose any shade of enamel for general interior bathroom;
• no other work is required in the bathroom;
• service life 5 years;
• The enameling process can be repeated if necessary after a few years.

Minuses:

• fragility;
• caution in performing the enameling process;
• careful with the help of special means.

Bathtub restoration with enamel

The process of restoring a bathtub yourself

The cast iron bathtub has no competitors - it retains heat well, does not deform, and does not make noise. But like any other plumbing fixture, it also has its own service life, after which the appearance of the bathtub becomes terrible.

The complex process of dismantling, replacing a cast-iron bathtub, the high price of a new one - all this forces us to look for compromise solutions. And the fastest and in an economical way is updating a cast iron bathtub using enamel.

Necessary materials and tools for enameling:

• wide brushes that are at least 7 cm wide - 2 pieces;
• color for enamel;
• 2-component epoxy enamel;
• sanding machine, cord brush;
• respirator with cartridge;
• vacuum cleaner;
• Stove cleaner.

Instructions for enameling a bathtub

• when choosing enamel, try not to save too much. Even though domestic manufacturers produce good epoxy enamels, epoxin and epovin, they are still the best operational properties have Finnish ones, for example, “Tikkurilla”.

Note!

That you need to buy not one, but two sets.

• If you are thinking about how to update your bathroom in general, then you can give your bath some kind of color shade, buy color. But do not forget that the color will lie evenly the first time, so you need to take it with a reserve;
• Preparatory work. In order to renew the bathtub, it needs to be degreased, the surface made rough so that the old and new coating have largest area contact.
  Degreasing must be performed 2 times - before processing grinder and after it before applying a layer of enamel. After degreasing, the bathtub must be thoroughly washed.

To make the surface of the bathtub rough, use a grinder, grinder or abrasive stone. . All cracks and chips must be widened with the same tool. Then you need to go over the entire area with a cord brush. And now you can wash off all the dust, degrease the bath again and wait for it to dry completely.

Now you need to remove all the gaskets from the bathtub, dismantle the drain and overflow. Only the metal body should remain, with which you will need to work further. Use a vacuum cleaner to collect the remaining dust;

The process of restoring a bathtub with enamel

• Enamel application stage. You need to lay newspapers under the bathtub, dilute the enamel in a container, mix both components, but initially take only one set.
  Now dip the brush in the composition and apply thin layer from the edges of the bath to the bottom. This layer must be leveled using horizontal and vertical movements, alternating them. Do not wait for the first layer to dry; apply the second and next layers in the same way. Work the sides of the bath well - the renovation should be uniform. Now we breed the second set and do everything the same.

Advice! You can check the uniformity of the layer - move the brush over the surface, if it glides, then you have completed the task perfectly.

After 15 minutes, you need to remove the streaks by smearing with a brush from bottom to top. It is necessary to check the condition of the coating every 15-20 minutes until streaks stop appearing on it. Now you need to let the bath sit for 4 days so that the new enamel coating sits firmly on the old one and dries completely.

The main defects in the bathtub coating include cracks, scratches and chips. Damage occurs after careless installation of furniture, plumbing fixtures and heavy objects falling into the bathing bowl. Calling a professional to fix problems won’t be cheap, so it would be nice to learn how to repair a cast iron bathtub yourself, don’t you agree?

We will help you resolve this issue. The article provides detailed instructions for removing chips, small and deep scratches, and also described effective methods restoration of cracks. By studying the material, you can restore the attractiveness of a cast iron bowl and extend the life of the bathtub.

The use of multi-component cleaning products, cleaning the contaminated surface with a stiff brush, careless handling of metal objects during repairs - all this leads to the formation of shallow scratches.

Such scratches must be eliminated immediately, since the penetration of moisture and caustic chemicals into the resulting gap leads to the formation of rust, the proliferation of moisture-loving microorganisms and an increase in the size of the scratch. Which will lead to further destruction of the bathtub surface.

Shallow scratches include damage that does not expose metal. These minor damages can be repaired even without priming the surface.

Methods for restoring cracks

Cast iron bathing bowls have become popular due to their high wear resistance and durability. But even such durable products have defects in the form of enamel chips, corrosion or cracks.

The occurrence of a crack as a result plumbing work or natural changes in water and air temperature becomes one of the reasons for replacing the bathtub. In some cases, it is possible to repair the defect.

Methods for eliminating a crack in a cast iron bathtub base: using cold welding, by applying epoxy resin, soldering with lead-tin solder.

Option #1 - cold welding

At the first stage, the bath is degreased and cleaned with Pemolux or soda. If there is rust around the edges and inside the crack, it is necessary to use a harsh abrasive such as Sanox or Chistin Sanitary.

The anti-corrosion agent is applied to the surface of the crack in a thick layer, wetted and left on the damage for 20 minutes. After washing off the cleaning agent, locking micro-holes with a diameter of 3 mm are drilled along the visible edges of the crack on one or both sides, depending on the location.

After degreasing, the surface is sanded with a grinder, electric drill with a grinding wheel or abrasive. Not only the crack is cleaned, but also the enamel around it, 1.5-2 cm wide.

A grinding wheel removes the coating right down to the metal. At the site of the crack, a hollow is ground out along the entire length of the fault.

After sanding, the tank coating is cleared of saw cuts and dirt. When the bathroom is dry, the crack area must be degreased with solvent, alcohol or cologne.

Pour into the bowl for half an hour hot water, after draining it, the surface is dried with a hairdryer. Now the treated coating defect can be covered by cold welding.

You can use the bath no earlier than after 24 hours. To even out the tone of the coating, the crack area can be painted with two-component acrylic or epoxy enamel.

Option #2 – epoxy resin

The process of preparing a surface for applying epoxy resin is practically no different from the technology for preparing a bath for applying cold welding.

Scheme of work:

• cleansing and degreasing;
• grinding and turning of grooves;
• additional degreasing.

After completing the preparatory work, it is necessary to prepare epoxy resin or epoxy-based putty. A layer of epoxy resin is applied to the crack site, fiberglass cloth is applied on top, and adhesive mounting material is applied again.

After the structure has dried, it is necessary to repeat the procedure: epoxy - fiberglass - epoxy. The result should be a patch above the enamel level; if not, then the procedure is repeated a third time.

Epoxy resin – the best remedy to eliminate cracks in the bathtub. The liquid texture of the material allows it to penetrate into every microcrack, providing increased adhesion and protection of the metal.

Option #3 – soldering the crack

If you have soldering skills, you can solder small crack in a cast iron bath. This requires thorough cleaning and freeing of the metal from the enamel.

Soldering is done with a 100-200-watt soldering iron using lead-tin solder and a special flux for steel and aluminum.

This method of solving a problem takes time and skill. The seam will not last long, but it will be suitable for temporarily fixing the problem.

To extend the attractiveness and service life of a renovated bathtub, it is necessary to properly. To clean the surface, do not use hard brushes, which can damage the smooth enamel.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

For reliable adhesion of materials and durability of the coating, it is necessary to follow a clear sequence of preparatory and restoration work:

High-quality repair of a cast-iron bathtub means careful restoration of the most important plumbing fixture in the apartment.

Restoration of a damaged surface is possible as a result of the “jewelry” work of a master. The result of painstaking work and many hours of waiting will be a bath without visible chips, scratches and cracks, which will last for another ten years.

Share with readers your experience of restoring damaged enamel of a cast-iron bathtub and carrying out restoration work. Please leave comments, ask questions about the topic of the article and participate in discussions - the feedback form is located below.