How to prune lilacs after flowering. Autumn chores: how to prune lilacs correctly

Correct fit lilac
It is advisable to plant lilacs either in sunny areas or in light partial shade. The plant cannot be placed in the shade.
The planting hole should be deep, with rotted loose soil. The plant does not tolerate close groundwater, so low areas are unsuitable for it. It is better to plant lilacs either in early spring or in late summer - early autumn; September is most suitable for this. If you decide to start planting in the spring, then buy seedlings in a container so that it is closed root system. Otherwise, there is a possibility that the lilac will not take root well or will die.
After you have planted the shrub, be sure to water it. You can add any drug that stimulates root formation to the water for irrigation. It is advisable to cover the top layer of soil with hay with a layer of 6-8 cm, which will protect the soil from drying out and weeds, and then, turning into humus, will be food for lilacs.
This plant can grow in one place for a long time, sometimes its entire life.
Caring for lilacs after flowering
Lilacs need regular pruning. In the 3rd year, the bush has strong, numerous shoots. They will subsequently form skeletal branches.
It is pruning after flowering that determines how well the plant will bloom.
Lilac responds favorably to fertilizers. Every spring the bushes need to be fed with nitrogen. Feeding from ash is well absorbed and organic fertilizers during the formation of buds, during flowering.
It is better to apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers in the fall once every 2-3 years. They are placed on top of the soil under the lilac, followed by digging. This is done due to the fact that part of the root system of the shrub is located in top layer soil. Rotted manure (horse and cow) is considered the best fertilizer.
Remember, fertilizing for lilacs is necessary, but you should not get carried away with nitrogen fertilizers, including organic ones, because of them the plant will bloom poorly and be more difficult to tolerate frosts.
How to prune lilacs after flowering?
In early spring select 6-10 strong shoots on the bush that are farthest from each other and create the outline of the plant. Cut off the remaining branches, and cut out the small ones directed inside the crown completely, and shorten the stronger ones a little.
Such thinning and sanitary pruning of lilacs must be carried out every spring, when the buds have already begun to grow.
Pruning is mandatory, otherwise the shoots under the faded flower clusters will weaken. Therefore, as soon as the lilac fades, it should be pruned. The sooner you do this, the better the new shoots will develop and the flowering will be especially lush.
It should be borne in mind that pruning sometimes causes the bush to bloom after a year. Lilacs are formed with pruning shears, and large branches are cut down. The cut areas must be covered with paint.
The basic principle of pruning is to remove all small branches. They do not bloom and can take a lot of energy from the plant.
If the branch has small and thin shoots, you need to remove it completely. Inflorescences must be removed immediately after flowering (only inflorescences without branches are removed).
Never break off a bush; this will damage the buds, which will not bloom next year.
All shoots need to be removed, leaving only healthy shoots that will replace the old ones in the future.
To care for lilacs during flowering, you need to cut branches from abundantly flowering bushes.
After the plant has finished blooming, all dry inflorescences must be carefully cut off.
Be sure to carry out sanitary pruning in spring and autumn, removing diseased and drying branches growing inside the bush. Don’t forget about formative pruning, in which you need to make sure that buds remain.
The lilac bush is unpretentious, but despite this, it looks impressive. Anyone, even a beginner, can handle planting and care. By following the rules of planting, watering and pruning, you will grow a luxurious plant that will decorate your summer cottage.

How to prune lilacs correctly, whether to prune lilacs in the spring and whether it is possible to prune lilacs in general - such questions are often asked by gardeners. Meanwhile, it is necessary to prune the lilac, otherwise the flowering of this beautiful plant will be scanty and predominantly at the very top of the bush, while the lower part and middle will consist of bare woody branches. Read our article about when and how to prune lilacs correctly. The most common type of lilac in our gardens is the numerous varieties of shrubs common lilac (Syringa vulgaris), about which this article and which we will further call simply lilac .

The largest lilac inflorescences appear on young branches, no older than 5-6 years. The older the branches, the smaller the inflorescences and the higher they are located, and at the level of human height and gaze, the lilac branches become woody and bare. From these features of the lilac growing season, it becomes clear that this plant, like no other, needs regular annual pruning, and old, overgrown and neglected lilac bushes require strong rejuvenating pruning.

Pruning lilacs in spring...

...maybe not the most best idea, if you expect to see blooms this year. If you have extra time, in the spring you can prune branches that have been broken over the winter or shorten branches that do not have buds. Main shaping lilac pruning should be done immediately after flowering, approximately once every two years. This rule applies to all beautiful flowering trees and shrubs. Formative pruning immediately after flowering (May-June) will allow the plant to grow new shoots and form new buds by the time of the next flowering.

Concerning anti-aging pruning old lilac , then it is done just in the very early spring, as soon as low temperatures above zero are established in the garden (in mild climates, such pruning can be done in winter).

How to prune lilacs correctly: formative pruning

After the end of lilac flowering (see photo diagram*, enlarged):

• trim off faded inflorescences short branches
• shorten long branches by about 1/3

After finishing the formative pruning, the lilac bush will have a compact, rounded appearance.

How to prune old lilacs: anti-aging pruning

Rejuvenating pruning of old lilac bushes should be carried out as early as possible in the spring (if you are not interested in flowering) or immediately after flowering (see photo diagram*, enlarged):

• shorten all branches to approximately 30-40 cm from the ground
• thin out the branches near the ground by cutting off excess or old branches at the root
• trim (or carefully remove with roots) excess when root shoots if the lilac has grown too wide

After the rejuvenating pruning of the lilac is completed, the bush will look like a lot of stump branches, but very soon new buds and greenery will form on the short branches, and in a year or two the lilac will bloom magnificently (with good care, naturally). The lush and fragrant inflorescences are enough for cutting and as a gift to friends. Photo below: lilacs in a vase.

Pruning grafted lilacs

The peculiarities of pruning grafted lilacs are that pruning should be done ABOVE the grafting site. All lateral growth should be removed, because the flowering on it will correspond to the type and variety of the rootstock, and not the highly decorative scion that you are counting on.

*Photo diagrams adapted from the magazine Fine Gardening

Did you know that in Great Britain and some other countries it was believed bad omen bring lilacs into the house and put them in a vase? Until now, some people, especially the older generation, do not cut lilacs and do not put them in a vase at home, because it was believed that lilacs in the house bring misfortune and... death. While searching online for the origins of this sign, I came across an interesting explanation. It turns out that before the widespread use of modern embalming agents, lilacs during the flowering period were widely used in houses where the body of the deceased was awaiting burial to mask the smell of decomposition. Thus, based on unpleasant associations, a “feedback” of lilac and misfortune arose, which, fortunately, has no logic behind it. However, if you are visiting someone in the hospital, choosing flowers, it is better to stay away from lilacs so as not to inadvertently upset the patient or his grandmother :-).

Lilac, like other tree-like shrubs, needs annual crown correction. Dried shoots, fading inflorescences, skeletal branches, layering and shoots inhibit vegetative processes inside the plant and negatively affect its general condition. In this regard, gardeners carry out annual pruning of lilacs after flowering, in the fall, and also in early spring.

Branches after flowering

Perform pruning garden lilac possible all year round. It is better to plan sanitary procedures for the spring before the buds open. Before flowering begins, you should refrain from adjusting the crown height so as not to remove flower buds. If a lilac develops a lot of inflorescences, some of them can be removed to prolong the flowering of the bush.

It is not recommended to carry out more than 3 lilac haircuts per season.

Not everyone can prune lilacs correctly, although it also poses certain difficulties. After the perennial blooms, it is enough to remove only the faded panicles so that they do not absorb some of the nutrients for seed maturation. Moreover, 10% of the inflorescences are left so as not to disturb the vegetative processes of the bush.

Haircuts are not carried out later than August, trees thinned in autumn do not bear inflorescences the following season. You can prune lilacs in the fall only for sanitary purposes. Between September and November, parts of the crown affected by the fungus are removed. In this case, saving the bush from death is a priority to its fruiting.

Types of pruning before and after flowering

Flowers, trees and shrubs are business card any area. Well-groomed plants can improve even the most unsightly area. While dense, diseased shrubs not only weigh down the plant composition, but pose a threat to other ornamental and fruit and berry crops. Regular pruning will help protect the plant from overgrowing.

There are several technologies for clearing green matter from a bush. The choice of one of them is carried out taking into account the time of year, the age of the bush, and its condition.

Sanitary annual clean crown

The work boils down to freeing the perennial from infected, frostbitten and shriveled branches. Sagging and dried shoots are usually removed in early spring before the buds open to prevent damage to the trunks by fungi and pests. Sanitation work also includes removing inflorescences after flowering.

Sanitary cutting is not always tied to calendar work in the garden. In the event of an invasion of pests or damage to the crown by bacteria, the diseased part is cut out completely, regardless of the work carried out previously. So as not to be left without blooming garden, take into account roses, peonies, hydrangeas and other perennials.

Thinning pruning

This is a type of pruning in which lateral shoots and layering are cut off from a formed bush.

The following branches are removed from the plant:

Formative pruning in the first, second and subsequent years

When carrying out such a haircut, the bush is given the desired shape and parameters. In park compositions there are both bush and standard specimens of lilac. The first option is considered the most common.

The most interesting and time-consuming is cutting lilacs after transplanting into open ground. Not all gardeners know when to prune young lilacs, so the plant develops spontaneously in the first few years. This approach negatively affects the growth and formation of the bush in the future.

• How to prune in the first year?

Immediately after planting in open ground, all shoots longer than one and a half meters are cut off from the seedling. Shoots and cuttings are removed so that the plant takes root better. 1 month after planting, plot owners can begin to form a crown. For development, 3-4 (bush form) or 1 (standard form) trunk are selected. The remaining shoots are removed. On spreading bushes, 5-6 stems are left.

If there are few branches and they are weak, then the formation of new ones can be stimulated by short cutting of the growth. The shoots left as skeletal shoots are shortened by 1/3, forming an attractive crown.

• What to plan for the second and third years?

It is necessary to cut out growth directed inside the crown, as well as weak branches. Annual shoots are shortened to half.

Lilacs are pruned annually

• Fourth and subsequent years

From 4 to 8 years old, with proper care for lilacs, thinning will be enough. At 9 years old, the plant is prepared for its first rejuvenating haircut.

Sometimes the top is cut off so that the whole lilac bushes. In this case, no more than 1/5 of the height of the bush is removed.

A favorable time for manipulation is spring, before the sap begins to flow. In summer, you can also thin out the crown, breaking out the shoots before they are covered with wood.

Bush or standard tree?

Lilac can grow as a compact tree or a wide shrub that produces root shoots every year. If the crop is given the opportunity to develop independently, then over time it will turn into an overgrown shrub consisting of many stems of different ages. In the center there will be old stems with peeling bark. Lichens, mosses, and pests readily take root on them, causing damage to the entire plant.

Another scenario is also possible - in those varieties that do not form shoots, the only trunk ages. If measures are not taken in a timely manner, the plant will grow old and die. Approaches to formation should be different, in each case you will have to take into account varietal characteristics perennial

It makes no sense to try to form a standard from an overgrown bush or vice versa. Approaches to shaping should vary.

Initial stage of formation standard tree consists of shortening an annual seedling to a height equal to the desired size of the trunk, plus 3-4 pairs of developed buds. From the shoots that grow from the left buds, a crown is subsequently formed according to the principle of a bush plant. In the future, you will have to promptly remove branches formed below the crown.

Video about forming a lilac trunk.

When to start rejuvenation?

Anti-aging pruning is cleaning the crown in order to prolong the life of the bush and improve flowering. During this process, the gardener selects the oldest trunks and cuts them into stumps. The renewed crown is formed from young shoots that were selected and preserved during previous cleanings of the plant. Partial anti-aging pruning involves removing lignified skeletal branches.

Rejuvenating cleaning is carried out to stimulate the growth of new shoots. In the next growing season, the plant will not bloom, since all flowering buds from last year will be removed. Before carrying out the planned event, gardeners determine the availability of vaccination. If it is detected, all parts of the plant located at the same level or below the graft are saved.

Upon reaching 12 years of age, flowering becomes sparse and the inflorescences become smaller, so gentle rejuvenation is best started when the shrub is 9 years old. By cutting off 2-3 old shoots per season, the lilac will always look well-groomed without compromising flowering.

Do I need to prune the inflorescences after they wilt?

If the owner is not interested in the ripening of the seed pods, it is recommended to remove the faded panicles, as they absorb a significant amount of nutrients.

When the first flowers appear on the lilac, they can be cut into bouquets. It is forbidden to break branches, since split wood is difficult to restore. Flowering next year will not be as abundant as usual. This is explained by the fact that the shoots on which future flower buds will form are located next to the inflorescences and are destroyed along with them.

To cut panicles into a bouquet without losing next year’s flower buds, you can cut only the brushes themselves, or the brushes together with the “slingshot” - the place where 2 inflorescences join together with an allowance of 5-6 cm.

Haircut rules

To work you will need a set of gardening tools:

• pruner;
• gardening scissors;
• penknife;
• electrical tape, resin or garden pitch;
• twine;
• gloves.

At the initial stage, a visual diagnosis of the bush is carried out. Trunks, branches and shoots that will subsequently be cut off are noted. At the same time, you need to remember that you cannot remove more than 20% of the crown at a time.

What mistakes beginner gardeners make are discussed in the video.

Too long branches are shortened first by 2/4. The cut is made at an angle of 45% and covered with garden varnish to prevent infections from penetrating under the bark. After this, the bush is thinned out to remove wilted, deformed and broken branches. They are cut to the very base of the trunk. Bare areas are wrapped with electrical tape or agrofibre.

When working with intertwined branches and closely spaced trunks, use twine. With its help, parts of the crown are fixed in such a way that individual shoots do not interfere with the gardener’s work. The trunks are cut to a stump, i.e. at the very base, the wound is covered with garden varnish. If the volume of cut material does not exceed 15% of the total mass of the crown, gardeners begin pinching out weak branches and young growth.

After the procedure is completed, the twine is cut off, and the crown takes on its previous appearance. The cut material must be disposed of immediately. Branches thrown near a bush provoke the development of putrefactive processes.

Lilacs can be found in almost every flower bed, because this unpretentious shrub It is highly decorative, and its lush fragrant inflorescences will decorate any garden. But to preserve these qualities, it is necessary to regularly prune lilacs, as for forming a crown correct form, and for rejuvenating old plants.

This article describes in detail the technique of carrying out the procedure depending on the season and age of the bush. You will learn how to properly remove lilac branches in spring and autumn, and what activities need to be carried out before and after flowering, and photos and videos will help you master the skills necessary to carry out the procedure.

When and how to prune lilacs

It is necessary to remove old branches or excess shoots from the bush, since otherwise the flowers will cover mainly the upper part of the plant, and its decorativeness will decrease.

It is important to choose the right time for the procedure. Spring is not a good time for crown formation, as the stress of pruning can reduce or stop flowering that year. Therefore, it is better to postpone the procedure until after flowering or autumn.

However, this does not mean that plants do not need attention in the spring. Before the buds awaken, you need to carry out sanitary cleaning: remove all dry or damaged branches, as well as shoots with signs of disease. This will help maintain the health of the bush throughout the growing season.

Trimming schemes

There are several schemes for pruning this shrub. One of them is aimed at forming the crown, and the second is aimed at rejuvenating the old plant. Let's look at each of them in more detail.

To form a crown you need to do the following:

• Wait until flowering is complete and remove all faded buds;
• Long branches must be shortened by a third;
• Remove all excess root growth and thin out shoots growing close to the ground.

If the bush has become too wide, it is necessary to additionally remove weak and thin side shoots. As a result, you should get a compact plant with a rounded crown. It is better to carry out this procedure after flowering, and not in the spring, so that the bush does not weaken and can form buds (Figure 1).

Figure 1. Classic scheme for the formation and rejuvenation of a bush

In the case of old shrubs that require rejuvenation, they act differently. Without exception, all branches are shortened so that their length from the surface of the ground does not exceed 40 cm. Shoots located near the surface of the ground are thinned out or completely removed (if the branch is old). If you are not interested in flowering this year, rejuvenation can be done in early spring, otherwise pruning is done after flowering is complete.

In fact, after rejuvenation, the bush will not look very attractive, since only small stumps will remain on it. But after 2-3 years it will be overgrown with young shoots and covered again lush inflorescences.

Required Tools

To carry out the procedure you will need standard set gardener: pruning shears for removing young shoots and thin branches, a hacksaw for cutting parts large diameter, as well as garden varnish or oil paint to treat the resulting wounds.

It is important that all instruments are clean, sharp and disinfected. Otherwise, an infection may get into the cut, which can destroy the plant.

Pruning lilacs in spring: forming a bush and its rejuvenation

Despite the fact that in the spring it is not customary to carry out the formation and rejuvenation of lilacs, it is still worth carrying out some manipulations with the plant.

Note: Until the buds awaken, it is much easier to remove excess growth. Such thin shoots will not bring any benefit to the plant: they will make the crown too thick, but will not be able to form buds, so it is better to remove all such branches immediately.

Rejuvenation has no strict contraindications regarding timing. As a rule, such pruning is required for old bushes that gradually reduce or stop flowering altogether. In this case, they use the scheme described above: all thin branches are removed, and large ones are greatly shortened. In the first year after this procedure, lilacs will not bloom, but in the future you will get a lush and beautiful bush with a lot of buds.

Annual pruning

If you want to form a beautiful and compact bush, be prepared for the fact that you will have to remove young shoots every year. In fact, it is pinching that preserves the strength of the plant and is carried out by removing young branches before the first branching (Figure 2). For this purpose, you can use regular pruning shears or small garden shears.

Figure 2. Pruning shrubs by age

This procedure allows you to stimulate the growth of side branches and helps maintain the harmony of the crown.

Bush thinning

The young crop grows very quickly, and without regular thinning the bush will turn out to be too lush and shapeless.

Note: Since this event does not involve the removal large quantity branches, it can be carried out in early spring.

To properly thin out the crown, first of all, cut out all dry or frozen parts. Next, weak shoots are removed that are not capable of forming flower buds, but at the same time they consume the juices of the plant and weaken it. In addition, you need to cut off the branches growing inside the crown. This arrangement results in the kidneys not receiving sufficient quantity sunlight, and do not bloom.

Also in the process, the root shoots are completely cut out, especially for grafted plants. If this is not done, wild branches will form at the roots, which will only weaken the plant, but will not bring flowering. However, moderation and caution should be observed during pruning: no more than a third of the plant can be removed at a time. total number branches.

Lilac rejuvenation

The main difference between anti-aging pruning and other types is that it involves severe thinning of the bush. At first glance, this procedure may seem dangerous, but in fact it will allow you to enjoy the flowering of old lilacs for several more years.

After this procedure, only stumps remain from the previously lush bush. But there is no need to fear that the plant will die: gradually young flowering shoots will form in place of the old branches.

Note: There is a definite difference between the rejuvenation of grafted and rooted varieties. Under no circumstances should grafted plants be cut below the grafting site. This will lead to the fact that instead of beautiful decorative bush you will have an ordinary wild shrub growing.

When rejuvenating the plant, you should not regret that there will be no flowering this year. In early spring, before the movement of sap in the branches begins, all old shoots are removed, leaving no more than 40 cm of them. Old shoots with cracked bark can be cut to the ground. Naturally, after such a procedure there is no point in expecting flowering. But after 2-3 years the plant will fully recover and will delight you with its flowering for several more years.

Pruning lilacs in autumn

Despite the fact that the formation of the crown is most often carried out immediately after flowering has completed, that is, in the summer, in the fall it is also necessary to carry out similar events. Their main goal is to slightly rejuvenate the bush, prepare it for wintering and strengthen it for the future growing season.

Since lilacs tolerate autumn pruning much better than spring pruning, during this period it is possible not only to thin out and rejuvenate the shrub, but also to more carefully shape its crown.

Annual pruning

For abundant and long-lasting flowering, you need to inspect the bushes every autumn in order to carry out sanitary cleaning in a timely manner. First of all, remove all old branches covered with lichen or with cracked bark.

It is also necessary to remove crooked or broken shoots, as well as those that grow inside the crown and thicken it. Alignment in height is also a prerequisite. This procedure cannot be carried out in spring, since severe shortening can stop the development of flower buds. In the fall, such an event will not cause harm; rather, on the contrary, it will improve the wintering of the bush.

Particular attention should be paid to grafted seedlings: all excess growth is removed from them, which thickens the crown and prevents the formation of varietal buds.

Bush thinning

Thinning helps to form a certain crown shape. However, it should be borne in mind that this procedure begins to be carried out no earlier than the third year of the bush’s life. Otherwise, the plant may become too weak and die.

Figure 3. Formation of the bush crown

You can form a lilac in the form of a bush or tree (trunk). In the first case, only 3-4 strong branches are left, extending from the trunk at a suitable angle. In the future, the main goal is to thin the crown. In other words, all shoots that thicken the crown or interfere with the growth of other branches should be removed (Figure 3).

When forming a standard form, care should be taken, since the culture similar type very vulnerable. First of all, you need to trim the shoots very carefully so as not to accidentally damage the bark or healthy branches. In addition, you need to carefully examine the tree and remove only those parts that violate its symmetry.

Rejuvenating lilacs in autumn

Over the years, a situation may occur where the shrub still remains lush, but its flowering is significantly reduced. This means that the plant needs rejuvenation. This is a rather radical procedure, after which the lilac will not look very attractive. However, it is necessary for the formation of young and strong shoots.

For rejuvenation, all branches are cut off without exception. Their length should be only 30-40 cm from the ground surface. Since such an event is quite stressful for the plant, all cuts and wounds exceeding a diameter of 2 cm must be covered with ordinary brilliant green or oil paint. Garden varnish is not suitable for this purpose, as it negatively affects the condition of the plant and can cause rotting of the branches.

Pruning lilacs before flowering

In early spring, that is, before flowering begins, it is not recommended to heavily thin out the bush. This may result in the lilac not blooming this year.

Activities carried out during this period include sanitary cleaning and light thinning. The first step is to remove all dry, broken or blackened branches. It is also necessary to cut out the oldest shoots covered with lichen or cracked bark. Such branches only thicken the crown and consume juices, but do not form buds. In addition, it is necessary to cut off shoots that are too young and weak, leaving only a few of the strongest ones for annual growth. In this case, you should carefully observe to remove only those shoots that grow in width and disrupt the shape of the crown.

Pruning lilacs during flowering

It is difficult to resist moderate pruning of lilacs during the flowering period, because you so want to decorate your home with lush inflorescences. Do not be afraid to do this, since such a procedure will only strengthen the plant and preserve its vitality.

Note: A similar procedure is not carried out for young plants: they are not yet strong enough and will not tolerate pruning well.

When cutting off the buds, light thinning is carried out at the same time: young branches growing inside the crown or interfering with the formation of stronger shoots are removed. In the process, under no circumstances should you break branches. For cutting, use only sharp pruning shears or garden shears. If you simply break a branch, an ugly mark will remain in its place, which in the future can lead to disease or death of the entire bush, especially during wet weather when damaged branches quickly rot.

How to prune lilacs after flowering: diagrams and methods

Immediately after flowering is completed, you need to arm yourself garden tool and prune lilacs. This is necessary if you plan to enjoy flowering for several more years.

Note: There is a certain order of pruning: first, take care of simple varieties, then semi-double ones, and then double ones.

The most the main objective- remove all faded inflorescences. The cut should be made directly above the first pair of leaves or buds, but if you want to slightly adjust the shape of the crown, you can deviate from this rule.

• Pruning is carried out immediately after the end of the flowering period. Otherwise, the plant’s energy will be spent on the formation of fruits and seeds, and not buds.
• If you are growing a non-fertile bush, thinning can be done all year round: flower buds will form in any case.
• Do not be afraid of autumn pruning: lilacs recover quickly enough and winter well after such care.

Figure 4. Care after flowering

The only condition that must be observed is proper care for plantings after pruning. Sections must be treated with oil paint, drying oil or regular brilliant green. Without this, the branches will quickly begin to rot, especially in wet weather.

Video: pruning lilacs in spring and autumn

Since pruning lilacs has certain features depending on the season and age of the bush, we recommend that you watch the video, which shows all the details in detail this process.

Old lilac: pruning

Any old bush lilac is a not very attractive cluster and interweaving of branches. However, it does not bloom too profusely, and without proper care it can quickly die. To prevent this from happening, anti-aging procedures are carried out (Figure 5).

Figure 5. Rejuvenation of an old plant

Similar pruning can be done in both spring and autumn. In any case, it will be possible to wait for flowering only after 2-3 years, since during the rejuvenation process all old and young branches are cut out, leaving only small stumps no more than 40 cm long. Own-rooted lilacs with a large number of old branches can be completely cut off at the root. But such a procedure will be disastrous for the grafted seedling: if you cut off the grafting site, instead of a varietal bush you will have wild growth.

Since rejuvenation is considered a very traumatic procedure, it is better to carry it out in dry weather. Dampness can cause rapid rotting of branches, especially if the cut areas were not properly treated with oil paint.

Autumn is not only the time of harvesting a rich harvest, but also preparing the flower garden for winter period. Lilacs are sure to grow at almost any dacha - a fairly unpretentious lush shrub, which, however, requires some care. Learn how to properly prepare lilacs for winter, trim the bush, feed it, right now.

When to start preparing lilacs for winter

Preparation of lilacs for the winter period begins in mid-August - it is necessary that after all the activities the tree can stand alone for at least a month (and the month must be warm enough). In the southern regions of Russia, the period shifts to September-October, in Siberia, on the contrary, to the beginning of August.

Since lilac is quite resistant to winter cold, it is enough to simply mulch to protect the tree trunks. They are covered with dried leaves and peat with minimum height 10 cm.

NOTE

In the case of the entire trunk area, it is completely wrapped in burlap. The procedure must be repeated in the first 3 years after replanting the bush or pruning it to a standard.

Schemes and technology for pruning lilacs in the fall for beginners

Despite the fact that the lilac bush grows very well, the pruning scheme for both young and old trees is quite simple, so even novice gardeners can cope with this procedure.

Pruning old lilacs for rejuvenation

There are several ways to prune a bush, depending on what it is being done for. For example, in the case of fairly old bushes (more than 10 years old), pruning is carried out for rejuvenation. It allows you to solve two problems at once:

• Remove all old shoots so that they do not take away water and nutrients from young branches.
• Give the bush a more attractive appearance - one that will optimally fit into the garden design.

The anti-aging pruning technology is as follows:

1. First of all, you should remove all old branches that have clearly cracked bark or bare trunk - even if they have a few shoots, it is better to sacrifice them in order for the tree to bloom luxuriantly next season.
2. Further, the pruning scheme depends on the desired shape of the bush. If you want to get a bush form, you need to leave 3-4 shoots that have grown to the sides (that is, not directed towards the center).
3. If you want to get a standard form, in which the crown is presented in the form of a lush ball, remove all side shoots in 1 season. And in the second, they pinch the top (up to which the height of the trunk is assumed).
4. In subsequent seasons, it is necessary to constantly thin out the crown and remove all the shoots that grow below - so that the trunk remains bare (this is the so-called trunk zone).

How to prune lilac (video)

Sanitary autumn pruning of lilacs

To do this, you can follow this technology:

1. Immediately after the end of flowering and in the fall, remove all half-dried and old branches, as well as shapeless shoots that spoil the appearance. They are removed completely - i.e. to the trunk.
2. All crossed branches, growing too close and competing with each other are also pruned.
3. If the lilac was initially grafted, all shoots should be removed every year.

Formative pruning

Finally, for purely aesthetic purposes, in order to give the bush a truly beautiful shape, you need to constantly carry out so-called formative pruning. You can adhere to the following technology:

1. In the 1st season, all weak or damaged shoots that grow towards the main trunk should be removed - i.e. inside the tree. They also remove two branches that are extremely close - it is better to leave one so that they do not interfere with each other.
2. On next year they work with skeletal branches - their strong shoots growing towards the middle of the tree are completely removed, and all other parts are shortened by about a third, cutting at the level of the buds from which new branches will grow.
3. In the 3rd and subsequent seasons, the same procedure is carried out - exactly until the crown becomes attractive: dense and evenly growing. Usually 2-3 seasons are enough.
4. Then every year you just need to monitor the resulting shape of the bush, removing overgrown shoots and old, dying ones.

NOTE

Crown formation is carried out on those bushes that were planted at least 3 years ago. In the first 2 seasons, you can only make small prunings, pinching out shoots that grow too rapidly compared to the rest.

Feeding lilacs in autumn

Unlike many garden crops Lilacs should be fertilized in the fall. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the location of its root system - it is almost completely located in the top layer of soil. Therefore, fertilizers are applied exclusively to the surface of the earth, after which it is carefully dug up. Comply following rules:

1. Fertilizers begin to be applied at least 25 cm from the root collar.
2. The maximum diameter is slightly larger than the crown of the bush (maximum indentation of 10 cm).
3. The depth of digging after applying solution or manure to the surface of the earth is the most important parameter. In order not to damage the roots, you should first dig 5 cm, and moving away from the root collar (more than 40-50 cm in diameter) you can increase the depth by 2 times.
4. The most best fertilizer for lilacs, as for many garden crops, it is rotted manure (cow and horse manure are suitable, but can also be taken in a mixed version).
5. If this is not possible, add humus or compost. The amount of dry mixture is taken by weight from 15 to 30 kg. Specific value determined by the size, age of the bush, as well as the fertility of the soil - for chernozems, 10-15 kg is enough, even for an adult tree.
6. Instead of humus or compost, a mixture consisting of a solution of mullein (5 parts water to 1 part mullein), bird droppings (1 part to 10 parts water) and slurry (8 parts to 1 part water) is also added. All components are mixed into one solution (in equal proportions), after which they are poured under the bush in an amount of 10-30 liters.

NOTE

Top dressing mineral fertilizers produced in spring and summer. Those. For autumn feeding Only organic fertilizers are selected.

Features of caring for lilacs (video)

Autumn transplant of lilac

Regardless of the type of lilac optimal time its transplantation is in August and the first half of September (before the onset of the first frost). At the same time, there are features different regions Russia:

1. In the Central region, the Volga region and the North-West, it is optimal to replant lilacs in the last ten days of August.
2. In the Stavropol Territory, Krasnodar Territory, Black Earth Region, the Caucasus and Crimea - the second half of October and even the beginning of November.
3. In Siberia, the Urals and Far East– mid-August or early September, if there is confidence that frost will not occur for at least a month from the date of transplantation.

The transplant rules are as follows:

1. First of all, it should be taken into account that the soil for lilacs should be neutral or slightly alkaline. The shrub does not tolerate an acidic environment quite well, so in such cases dolomite flour or ash is added to the soil in an amount of 200-300 g per m2.
2. It is better to choose a place that is slightly elevated, fairly dry and open to the sun - lilac loves light and does not like marshy soil.
3. If the soil is chernozem, it does not need additional fertilizers. But if the soil is quite poor, add 15-20 kg of compost or rotted manure (per 1 bush).
4. It is advisable to plant the seedlings together with a lump of earth - then they will certainly be able to quickly take root.
5. Self-rooted bushes, which are separated from the mother lilac, are planted a little deeper than the place where the roots are located.
6. If grafted seedlings are planted, then first of all you need to take into account the type of rootstock. Almost all cultivated varieties are grafted onto common, Hungarian lilac or privet.

Technology for propagating lilacs in autumn by cuttings

Lilac cuttings are one of the most common methods of propagating a bush. Nevertheless, it requires compliance with several rules at once:

1. First of all, you need to take into account that the rooting period of the cuttings is quite long - at least 5 weeks. Therefore, selection occurs at the end of flowering or immediately after it.
2. Lignified and even semi-lignified cuttings are not suitable - they do not take root. Therefore, you only need to take green cuttings, especially from young branches.
3. It is better to cut branches with 2-3 nodes. The best option- those layers that extend from the middle parts of the main branch.
4. All leaves are removed from the bottom node.
5. Then a cut is made at an acute angle. It should come as close as possible to the place where the leaves were cut. At the same time, you should not cut at the node itself - such cuttings do not take root.
6. All other leaves should be cut exactly in half.
7. The top node is completely cut off along with the leaves - a regular cut is made perpendicular to the cutting.
8. Next, the cuttings should be immediately placed in a solution of a root formation stimulator and left overnight.
9. Then the shoot is completely washed under running water and is planted in a semi-shaded place - either in a greenhouse or on regular soil, but in this case the cuttings should be covered with 5-liter cut bottles.
10. For the planting hole, a mixture of sand and peat, taken in equal mass quantities, is selected.
11. A hole is dug no more than 20 cm deep. A cutting is planted and filled with the mixture. A 5-centimeter layer of sand is poured over the top.
12. The hole is treated with a solution of any fungicide and after a few hours it is thoroughly watered.
13. Next, the entire cutting is covered with polyethylene (or you can cover each shoot with a bottle).
14. Subsequently, you need to ensure that the sand always remains saturated with moisture, and also spray the shoots with a weak solution of potassium permanganate every 7 days.
15. It is also necessary to constantly ventilate the cuttings, and it can be opened completely after 6 weeks - then almost all shoots should form roots.

How lilacs reproduce (video)

NOTE

The cuttings can be left for the winter, but if they have taken root by the beginning of autumn, they should be transplanted to a separate bed for growing. Compost or humus is added to the soil. If the soil is acidic, it is better to add ash or dolomite flour at the rate of 200-300 g per 1 m2. You can replant to the main location in the spring.

Thus, lilacs need basic care precisely at the end of summer - beginning of autumn. If you make some effort this season, the bush will delight you with its fragrant, beautiful flowers all next summer.