How to feed lilacs for lush flowering, when to apply fertilizers. Preparation of herbal infusion: video

Proper and timely application of fertilizers is the key to the harmonious development of seedlings. However, many gardeners are poorly informed about when and what fertilizers to apply. This article will help you understand all the intricacies of an important process aimed at increasing the productivity of plant growth.

Proper soil fertilization will create favorable conditions for the existence of crops and will avoid problems in the future. But it is necessary to fertilize competently. Uncontrolled application of organic matter or complex fertilizers can be harmful. So, how to feed the seedlings?

Young plants primarily need phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium. Usually they are the ones that are lacking in the soil, which means they need to be compensated for. Hydrogen, oxygen, carbon are no less important components of “excellent health.” If the nutritional value of the soil leaves much to be desired, then the seedlings will lack these elements of the periodic table. But calcium, sulfur, magnesium, manganese require a minimum amount at the beginning of the journey.

The need for certain fertilizers depends on the type of crops you planted. So, pears and apple trees are in greater need of organic matter. Cherry and apricot - in minerals.

How to find out what exactly is missing?

If the seedlings do not take root well, you should take a closer look at them. With careful visual inspection you will definitely find characteristic features deficiency of one or an element.

Thin weak stems, small pale leaves indicate that the seedlings lack nitrogen. Are the leaves drying out at the edges and turning yellow or brown? Need potassium. An acute lack of magnesium manifests itself in the form of pale leaves, which subsequently turn yellow and fall off.

Small and almost black foliage, mainly in the lower part of the plant, is a signal that it should be fed with phosphorus. A lack of iron is indicated by intense wilting of leaves and shoots. Most often, raspberries, grapes, apple trees, and plums need iron. But when there is not enough copper, the leaves at the tips lighten, become lethargic and soon die.

Phosphorus and potassium: what you need to know

Experts advise adding phosphorus and potassium only in the 4th year after planting. It is better to do this in the fall, because... Such complexes contain difficult-to-digest substances. An exception is made for fruit-bearing plants - they are fed in the spring.

Many people apply such fertilizers during fruit set. And they do it right - it has a beneficial effect on the quality and quantity of the harvest.

So what fertilizers for seedlings containing potassium and phosphorus should be applied first?

potassium sulfate used as a basic fertilizer for fruit-bearing crops. Main content active substance- 50%. It is applied mainly in spring;
potassium salt. Universal feeding Suitable for any type of crop. The content of the main substance is 40%. Apply in autumn;
superphosphate. Fertilizer in granules. Phosphoric acid content - up to 20%. It is applied at the rate of 35-40 g/m2;
phosphate rock. Not only a valuable fertilizer, but also an effective neutralizer increased acidity soil. Phosphorus content varies from 15 to 35%. Focused on feeding any fruit trees.

There are special mixtures containing other substances in addition to potassium and phosphorus. For example, nitrophoska and diammofoska include potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen in different proportions.

Nitrogen: when and how to apply?

If the soil was fertilized with nitrogen during planting, then the first fertilizing is practiced in the 3rd year after planting. Most of nitrogen is applied in the spring, less - in the fall. It is calculated as follows: 20 g/m2 (for poor soils) or 10 g/m2 (for fertile soils). If you plan to add nitrogen, you should use:

urea (carbimide). Contains quickly digestible nitrogen. Young plantings can be fertilized with urea in two ways: by digging the dry mixture into the tree trunks or by spraying the trunk and leaves with a solution (for this, 0.5 kg of urea is dissolved in a bucket of water);
ammonium nitrate. Fertilizer in granules is well absorbed by seedlings. Nitrate can be used in dry (15 g/m2) and liquid (25 g/bucket of water) form;
compost, bird droppings and manure. Designed to feed soil of average fertility. Contains a small amount of nitrogen. Optimal as an addition to other mineral complexes.

Immature seedlings cannot be fertilized with nitrogen. This will significantly extend the growing season and reduce resistance to frost.

Organics: rules to remember

The most useful fertilizer for seedlings is manure. It should be added in the 3rd year. Chicken manure is especially valuable. They fertilize the ground in the spring at a rate of 5 kg/m2. To feed fruit trees, manure is diluted with water (1 kg/bucket of water) and left for 4-5 days. In autumn, the dosage of litter is reduced to 0.3 kg/m2. Manure from domestic animals is applied exclusively in a rotted state. Fertilize with manure once every 3 years. If the land is very poor, you can do it once every 2 years.

Another useful organic fertilizer is peat. Improves air permeability and soil structure. Furnace ash reduces the acidity of the earth. It is added at the rate of 100 g/m2. Mix with other organics or prepare a solution.

Compost deserves special attention. It is applied in the first year after planting. Increases the nutritional value of the soil, enriches it with humus and improves aeration. Contains substances necessary for seedlings to grow.

High-quality compost can successfully replace any mineral mixtures. At the same time, preparing compost is simple. To do this, dig a trench in the fall and fill it with leaves, grass, sawdust, tops, tea leaves and other waste. compost pit They cover it with earth and safely forget about it until spring. Over the winter, everything you throw into it will turn into wonderful fertilizer.

The interval between feeding is 2 seasons. Optimal time for fertilizing with compost - September-October. Important: compost is lightly dug into upper layer ground or simply laid out near tree trunks.

Don’t know what else to feed the seedlings? Ready-made fertilizers have proven themselves to be excellent - “Aquarin”, “Kemira”, “Ekofoska”, “AVA”, “Uniflor-rost”, “Florist”, “Ferovit”, “Uniflor”. The main thing is to carefully read the instructions (the composition of the drugs is different) and follow the dosage.

Hello!

Agree, flowers in the house are a joy for the soul, a kind little oasis, looking at which we give rest to both our nerves and our eyes tired of the computer and TV. Beneficial features indoor plants They are very versatile and it is not for nothing that housewives enjoy breeding them.

Moreover, most flowers do not require our constant attention; most often they only have to be watered, and all other “operations” must be carried out from time to time - fertilizing, spraying, replanting.

And today we will master the most important operation, we will learn how to correctly replant indoor flowers that have long taken root in our home, and flowers purchased in a store.

So, based on our requests, we chose a flower and, satisfied with the purchase, brought it home. Now it is imperative to follow all the rules for transplantation, otherwise after a while you will have to hold a funeral ceremony to remove the dried “body”. Either in best case scenario the flower will hurt for a long time, get used to it, but will never become as beautiful as it was at first.

Transplanting purchased flowers has its own nuances, during which housewives often make the same mistakes. If you are planning to transplant a pet that has already settled in with you, then points 3-5 will be useful to you.

Error one

After purchase, the plant is immediately placed next to other house flowers.

You shouldn’t do this, because if your “newbie” is infested with pests, it will also harm its neighbors. Therefore, after purchasing, we send the plant to “quarantine”, during which time it will at the same time be able to “get used” to the house. Usually “flower quarantine” lasts 1-2 weeks, during which the flower acclimatizes, and we do not disturb it, do not fertilize it or replant it.

During this time, we observe the plant and if pests and pathogens do not appear on it, then we safely place it in our collection. If they do appear, then we “identify” the pest and neutralize it by treating it with special preparations.

Error two

And the most important thing is that a flower bought in a store is left to grow in the same pot in which it was sold.

The fact is that transporting natural soil in open containers (which are flower pots) across the border is prohibited. Therefore, manufacturers replace the nutrient soil with an inert mixture during transportation.

The inert mixture is a combination coconut flakes, perlite (a natural form of volcanic glass) and long-acting concentrated fertilizers. Plants can live and develop in such a mixture only for a limited period of time. And if you don't get rid of her root system plants, they will die.

Alternatively, plants in stores may be kept in peat, which is also detrimental to them at home.

Several times during transplantation, right in the main pot of soil, on the roots of the flowers, I discovered special bags or small pots. If they are not removed, the plant will simply stop growing and developing. Therefore, replanting flowers in pots is vital.

Error three

Incorrectly selected soil.

There are now primers on sale for different types plants. But, based on my experience, I will say that they are still not ideal for replanting your green pets. And almost always, the composition of the soil has to be adjusted.

Soils can be:

Too dense, then we add additives to it that will loosen it, allowing the roots of the plant to breathe. You can add coarse sand (river, lake), or perlite, which we talked about above, in this case performing the functions of sand. Or long-fiber peat (in which imported plants grow in stores).

If the soil, on the contrary, is too peaty, it is necessary to compact it by adding a more dense and nutritious type of turf soil.

Error four

Flowers are transplanted according to a gentle scheme

That is, the flower is transplanted into home potty along with some of the soil from the purchased pot in which it grew. This technique is not suitable for purchased flowers.

In transplanting imported plants the most important role technology plays a role, with it, first of all, we must cleanse the root system of the plant from the “substrate” in which it was located from the moment it left the foreign greenhouse until the moment it arrived at your home.

Remove the plant from the transport pot and place its roots in a container with warm water from the tap to soak them. While the flower is soaking, we place drainage at the bottom of the pot and add nutritious soil.

When the main part of the substrate “falls off” from the roots of the plants, carefully remove it, holding it by the base of the trunk, and transfer it under running water. Under running water, completely wash away the remaining substrate from the roots. After this, it is recommended to spray the root system with a preparation like Kornevin, but to be honest, I have never done this.

Carefully lower the plant onto the prepared soil and completely sprinkle the roots on top. Then water generously with warm, settled water.

When transplanting indoor indoor flowers, we use the same technology.

The only exception is that we do not wash off the soil from the roots, but only shake it off a little and lower the plant, along with the remnants of the “native” soil, into the prepared pot, fill the root system with the prepared soil and water it with settled water. That’s it, our flower is absolutely happy 🙂, but it’s still weak, so we protect the transplanted flower from cooling, drafts and waterlogging.

Error five

Early plant feeding

After such a “cruel” transplant, many housewives want to help their pet recover and settle into new conditions, for which they begin to add various supplements.

But this should not be done under any circumstances; you can start feeding the transplanted plant no earlier than a month and a half later, and only after it shows the first signs of normal rooting - new leaves, sprouts, and shoots will appear.

The transplant method I described may seem too traumatic. But don’t be afraid, in fact it turns out to be much more humane for the plant, since the pet will not suffer in a substrate unusual for its habitat.

I applied this method of transplantation to all plants purchased in the store, and they all tolerated it safely, continuing to grow and delight with their beauty. The only “missing” plant I had was myrtle, but it disappeared due to improper care for it, the intricacies of which at that time I did not know, but this is a completely different story.

I hope that my experience in replanting green pets will be useful to you, and if I missed anything in the article, I will be glad to receive your tips.

Houseplants beneficial for human health

Absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen:

Sansiviera, which is popularly called “pike tail”;
chlorophytum;
a coffee tree.

Plants that can absorb dust. Conifers have these properties.

Whatever roses you grow in your flower garden or at home, in any case it will be useful to know how to transplant roses correctly.

Features of transplanting an adult rose to replace a dead bush

When one of the rose bushes unexpectedly dies in the rose garden, another, also mature bush, is planted in its place.

When growing these beautiful flowers, sooner or later the need for replanting arises - you need to move them into a pot immediately after purchasing bigger size with fresh nutritious soil, and garden roses have to be replanted for various reasons:

It is not always possible to initially correctly plan the design of the site, or construction suddenly begins, and there is no other choice but to move the flowerbed with roses to another place;
when planting seedlings, neighboring plants were not taken into account, as a result of which the roses began to get sick and die;
due to the sandy loam, excessively loose soil, the roots of the roses were buried, or on heavy clay soil were squeezed to the surface;
the main ones on the site were not taken into account;
the soil under the mature bushes in the old rose garden has become depleted;
The rose bushes have grown too much and have lost their decorative value.

The last option is possible when improper care for self-rooted roses, if you do not prune the roots of the bush in time and allow the stems to grow into different sides. In this case, it is not at all necessary to dig up the entire bush; it is enough to simply cut off and replant part of the bush, this way you will rejuvenate old bush, you will get more abundant flowering from it. In addition, you will not have to worry about how to root the rose before planting it in a new place - it will already have a developed root system.

Video about correct transplant roses

In other cases, if landscape design The plot was thought out in advance, and a place suitable for all parameters was chosen for planting roses; there will no longer be a need to replant established rose bushes.

When one of the rose bushes unexpectedly dies in the rose garden, another, also mature bush, is planted in its place. In this case, you need to carefully approach the choice of plant - the rose must have the appropriate size of the bush, the color of its flowers must be harmoniously combined with the surroundings. It is better to use the same variety, since planting, for example, a strong-growing variety among weakly growing ones will negatively affect the rest of the plants.

A new bush can be replanted in April or October, having first dug up the old plant and completely replaced the soil with a new one to a depth of up to half a meter, within a radius of about 30 cm. For greater convenience, all necessary work It is recommended to prune neighboring rose bushes before replanting. And in order for an adult rose bush to take root better in a new place, all developing buds should be removed from it after replanting in the first year.

Transplanting roses

What to consider when transplanting roses

Best suited for transplanting roses early spring, until the buds open, or October, three weeks before persistent frost. In spring, roses should be replanted in the late afternoon or in cloudy weather.

Overgrown before transplantation spray roses cut to 20 cm, climbing varieties- half, and standard ones - by a third. You should also remove weak and broken branches and tear off the leaves from the plant.

When digging up a rose intended for replanting, it is important to know whether it is a self-rooted bush or a grafted one. In the first case, the root system is located superficially in the ground, in the second case, the taproot goes deep into the soil. Taking these features into account, try to remove the rose bush from the ground as carefully as possible, along with the earthen lump. Don’t worry too much that some of the roots will still be lost - everything will be restored in a couple of weeks. Roots that are too long need to be trimmed.

A dug up rose can be moved to a new location by tying the root system in fabric

The dug up rose can be moved to a new place by tying the root system in fabric so that the lump of earth does not fall apart and the roots are not damaged. Plant the plant directly with the fabric - it will soon rot in the ground.

Pit preparation

They begin preparing the planting hole three weeks before the intended transplant. The dimensions of the new planting hole should be no less than the hole from which the rose bush was dug. The average diameter of the hole is approximately 60 cm, depth - 45 cm. Loosen the bottom of the hole and fill it with soil mixed with compost, and fill it with regular soil on top so as not to burn the roots of the roses. Before planting the rose, water the hole well.

Planting a rose

The grafted rose is placed in the planting hole so that the root collar is about five centimeters below ground level. U own root rose the lump of earth with roots should be level with the surface of the earth. Cover the installed plant with garden soil, lightly tamp it down and water it generously.

Video about correct landing roses

Fertilizers for roses

Around the transplanted rose bush at a distance of 15 cm from the shoots, apply mineral fertilizers intended for roses (if autumn transplant nitrogen fertilizers excluded), loosen the soil again to a depth of no more than 10 cm and water. Mulch the surface of the soil around the rose with well-rotted manure. For the winter, do not forget to hill up the bushes and remove all immature shoots.

In the next three years after the transplant, try not to move freshly planted roses to a new place - let the plants come to their senses.

Pelargonium prefers drought rather than excessive moisture. It is recommended to water the plant rarely, but abundantly. So how do you water? Optimally – 2 times a week. Excessively moist soil can cause mold to appear on the leaves. One of the signs of improper watering is yellowed leaves and a wilting plant. The soil in the pot should be slightly moist.

Important! Do not spray the leaves, as this can cause burns.

The importance of proper fertilizer

The choice of fertilizer for pelargonium is an important issue. The flower doesn't need organic feeding . Geraniums require a complex of mineral fertilizers with potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus. Which must be added in equal portions. But first the dose of nitrogen decreases, and the dose of potassium, on the contrary, increases.

When and in what cases is feeding required?

In winter, the flower does not require fertilizer. The pet is fed only in the spring and summer. It is enough to carry out the procedure twice a month, an hour after abundant watering.

Sick pelargoniums cannot be fertilized.

Pelargonium cannot be fertilized if it has been in bright sun all day. The flower must be shaded, then watered, and only then the necessary substances must be added. Pelargonium cannot be fertilized 2 weeks before transplantation and for a week after it.

What and how to fertilize?

The main rule of feeding a plant is to adhere to the dose of fertilizers.. Withered or yellowed leaves indicate an excess of nutrients.

Nitrogen substances must be added only after.

To prevent burns to the geranium roots, liquid fertilizers should be applied only after watering.
After adding minerals, the soil under the plant needs to be loosened.

What to feed for the formation of buds?

For abundant flowering, the crop must be fed mineral fertilizers. One-component fertilizing is required - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, iodine.

Reference! Phosphorus is necessary for the formation of buds. Its deficiency slows down the process. With a lack of potassium, crop growth stops. Nitrogen promotes the growth of stems, leaves and roots.

It is recommended to apply nitrogen fertilizers in the spring– during the period of active growth of pelargonium. The most popular nitrogen fertilizers are ammonium sulfate and ammonium nitrate. You can use ready-made mineral compounds with high nitrogen content for indoor flowering plants. You can buy them in specialized stores.

To achieve active flowering, you can use vitamins as supplements, which are sold in pharmacies in the form of ampoules - B1, B6 and B12. They are added using the alternating method - an ampoule of the vitamin is diluted into 2 liters. water, the resulting solution is watered abundantly on the bush. After 2-3 weeks, another vitamin is used according to the same scheme. Vitamin supplements improve the quality of budding and flower immunity. It is advisable to use them in spring and summer.

About how to fertilize pelargonium for lush flowering, described in this video:

Traditional methods

What to do if you did something wrong?

Excess fertilizer can lead to the development of root rot. And with a deficiency of nutrients, geranium leaves lose their elasticity and brightness.
If your indoor pet doesn’t bloom, then it’s possible flower pot too much or too much nitrogen fertilizer in the soil.
Overfeeding pelargonium provokes an increase in the mass of green leaves, while flower stalks weaken.

How to fertilize correctly garden trees when transplanting- today we will dwell on this issue, since there is a misconception about this process may lead to the death of the tree.
Plants are most easily transplanted in the fall during the period of natural deep dormancy. Therefore, it is highly advisable to transplant ornamental and fruit crops after complete completion their growing season. In principle, you can plant fruit trees also in winter and spring, but the outside air temperature must necessarily exceed zero degrees.

For successful transplantation and survival of seedlings, the following sequence of actions is important - first cold snap, then leaf fall, as a result, the plants enter the dormant stage, and only after this period the seedlings are transplanted. Don't get confused! During this period, transplantation gives, according to observations, the highest percentage of survival.

Planting a garden does not mean that you will always have stable harvest. As each tree grows, it needs an increasing number of different nutritional components. It’s a paradox, but the less fertilizer you apply, the better it is absorbed by the tree itself. And the more fertilizers there are, the higher the likelihood of root death or other diseases. It is especially important to feed the tree when replanting it even a short distance from the main place in the garden, not to mention changing the soil. In this case, it loses about eighty percent of its roots.

When the roots begin to come into direct contact with undecomposed organic matter, nitrogen or potassium, that is when they can become dead and the tree can die. Therefore, do not rush to fertilize immediately, but simply loosen the soil more often, water it and monitor the water temperature during the watering process. But when new roots grow, then water the tree trunk circles with weak solutions of complex fertilizers or add well-rotted manure and dig up the ground shallowly with it. Such prepared manure, humus, and compost can be mixed and added to the hole when backfilling it after transplanting the seedlings.

Organic fertilizers play physical role in the life of a plant. They improve its structure and at the same time nourish the plants. In addition, this type of fertilizer perfectly mulches the soil around the tree. Such mulch should always be preserved under raspberries. And so that the soil does not dry out and always “keeps” the desired and comfortable temperature for raspberries, the mulch is covered with straw or white sponbond on top. Nitrogen should be added to the tree trunk only when necessary and only when you are sure that the trees have completely taken root.