How should plastic windows be installed correctly? Installation of plastic windows according to GOST - instructions

How does the installation work? plastic windows; what nuances should you pay attention to during measurements and installation; common mistakes, as well as ways to identify them - these and others current issues we will look at in this article.

Why do problems with plastic windows occur so often?

Many people believe that PVC windows are only as good as the quality of their installation. In many ways this is true. The fact is that the production of plastic windows is carried out using automated systems, and calculations and design are carried out on computers using specialized software. That is why defects in the assembly of translucent PVC structures are extremely rare, and the notorious “ human factor" It should be noted that in addition to high-quality installation, it is very important to wisely choose a window system that is optimally suited for certain conditions. And yet, an incorrectly measured window simply cannot be installed properly.

Consequences of poor installation

Preparing the opening

When performing window installation work, you always have to devote some time to preparing and restoring the opening. This problem is especially relevant when replacing window units in old buildings due to extensive damage to dilapidated structures. In a good way, for her quality solution it takes two to three days, which is simply impossible in residential premises. Quick-hardening cement-based compounds and polyurethane foam in combination with sheet insulation come to the rescue.

After dismantling the old window, the opening must be freed from moving, crumbling particles and protruding elements of the old internal slopes. All surfaces are cleaned of dust, dirt, and oil stains. Loose areas should be secured by filling with a waterproof binder.

Large voids formed when replacing window blocks, for example, between the rows of facing and load-bearing brickwork, sealed with dense insulation, all through holes are foamed.

In addition, it is necessary to remove mortar deposits, repair cavities and chips on the internal surfaces of the quarter that exceed 10 mm in height. Such attention to this section of the opening is explained by the fact that a hermetic tape seal will be placed here.

Installation of plastic windows

Positioning and temporary fixation of window blocks

Windows can be installed in a pre-prepared opening, either assembled or with the sashes and double-glazed windows removed. In any case, the window block must have an installation profile designed for mounting the window sill and ebb.

Using a level or plumb line, the windows are aligned in compliance with the required installation gaps within permissible deviations - up to 1.5 mm per meter, but not more than 3 mm for the entire length of the product. The difference between window diagonals should not exceed 8 mm. If the opening does not have a quarter limiting the location of the window block, then it is recommended to install the product at a certain distance from its outer edge - at least 1/3 of the thickness of the load-bearing wall. If the wall is not uniform, with insulation - in the area of ​​the insulating layer.

Using plastic mounting wedges, the window is fixed in the opening. Such wedges are installed in pairs in the corners of the window block; the thickness is adjusted by moving them relative to each other by several interlocking teeth. The prefabricated plastic block has an air chamber, therefore it is not a cold bridge, like a homemade wooden block, and moreover, it does not deform with changes in temperature and humidity. The recommended width of the wedges is 100-120 mm. All installation pads are removed after fixing the window with fasteners, except for the lower support wedges. It is they who transfer the load to the load-bearing base, and not the lower assembly seam.

Attention! If the window has a vertical central bulkhead - an impost, then the support wedges should be placed directly below it.

PVC window fixing

Depending on the design and density of the wall materials, the weight and dimensions of the product, the strength of wind loads, the size of the installation gaps, it is selected optimal type and quantity fastening elements. To attach windows to openings, plastic or metal anchor dowels, construction screws or mounting plates are used.

Polymer dowels are used for walls made of low strength materials - lightweight concrete, hollow brick, wood, and also to avoid contact corrosion in aggressive environments. Plastic frame dowels provide good thermal insulation of the connected elements.

Windows are fastened with self-tapping screws to wooden bases - rough frames, embedded elements, wooden frame posts.

Flexible anchor plates are used for multi-layer wall construction, if there is insulation in the area where the window block is located, and the attachment point must be moved beyond it.

Metal expansion dowels provide excellent resistance to shear loads occurring in solid mineral substrates such as concrete, solid brick, and natural stone.

The length of the fasteners is selected so that the spacer element of the anchor is immersed in the base by at least 40 mm. The diameter of the dowels should not be less than 8 mm.

Fastening elements must be located in the range of 150-180 mm from the inner corner of the window block and 120-180 mm on both sides of the impost. If there is no impost connection, then one dowel should be located along the line of the frame ledge of the two sashes. The distance between the fasteners should not exceed 700 mm for white and 600 mm for tinted windows, therefore an anchor is almost always placed in the area of ​​the middle of the side profile of the window.

In predetermined places, through holes are drilled into window box, so that the heads of the dowels and locking screws are recessed into the rebate of the window profile and can be closed with decorative plugs or caps. Depending on the characteristics of the wall materials, anchor holes in them are drilled or drilled with a hammer drill in a mixed mode - drilling with impact.

Attention! The depth of drilling holes in the walls should be at least 10 mm greater than the length of the part of the anchor that extends into the base.

Flexible anchor plates are attached to the windows before they are installed in the installation opening. To do this, they are snapped into the grooves from the outside plastic profile and screw it to it with screws and a drill, the diameter of which must be at least 5 mm and a length of at least 40 mm. After fixing the window in the opening, the plates are bent and attached to the wall using plastic expansion dowels with a diameter of 6 mm.

Attention! There should be two attachment points for each plate.

Technology for filling installation gaps

According to current GOSTs, when installing plastic windows, a three-layer system should be used assembly seams. The basis for this design was quite simple idea, at one time implemented by German specialists. The main component of the installation gap is the central layer in the form of polyurethane foam, which performs a sound and heat insulation function and must remain dry under any circumstances in order to function correctly. Inner layer protects the insulation from moisture penetration from inside the room, in other words, it is a vapor barrier. Self-adhesive tapes or vapor-tight mastic sealants are used for this. The outer layer is a pre-compressed self-expanding seal strip (PSUL), which allows moisture from the foam insulation to pass through, but is waterproof on the outside.

The construction of a complex seam begins with the installation of the PSUL on a quarter of the opening, 3-5 millimeters from its edge. Thus, a front installation gap is formed, the size of which is regulated by the working thickness of the sealing tape compressed by at least 25% - in practice this is on the order of 3 to 20 mm. In some cases, for example, if a quarter of a brick has jointing or other minor irregularities, the tape is glued directly to the window profile.

Attention! The current GOST 2007 in article 5.1.9. allows sealing of the outer layer plaster compositions, whereas the previous standard prohibited this, allowing the use of only profile parts: flashings, false quarters, ebbs.

Note that the use of low tide - required condition provision reliable protection assembly seam from atmospheric moisture. The ebb should extend 30-40 mm beyond the cladding of the external walls; noise-absorbing pads can be installed under it.

Next, after the window is finally secured in the opening using anchors or flexible plates, the installation seam is filled with a layer of foam. Foaming is carried out with the window unit fully assembled. Please note that compensation gaskets must be installed between the glass unit and the profile.

As we have already said, the central layer, depending on the dimensions and features of the windows, can range from 15 to 40 millimeters. The foam sealant must be applied in a continuous, uniform layer, without the formation of voids, tears, or cracks. That is why, with a large window profile width, or if the width of the installation gap significantly exceeds the standard one, polyurethane foam is applied in stages, taking into account technological breaks for drying of the layers. It is recommended to do a foam test before starting to fill the joint. small area to determine the degree of expansion of the polyurethane seal. The foam should not extend beyond the outer plane of the window profile.

Attention! Cutting off excess foam material makes the central layer too hygroscopic, so this operation is performed only in extreme cases and only from the inner surface of the assembly seam.

A vapor barrier tape is glued on top of the dried foam insulation, extending into the opening, or mastic is applied. An important stage in the construction of the inner layer of the assembly seam can be considered the treatment with silicone or acrylic sealants mating elements of the window system, such as slope cladding, window sill, as well as joints of individual window blocks with each other and with stand, rotary, expansion profiles.

Upon completion of window installation, the protective film must be removed from the frames and sashes.

Main mistakes when installing plastic windows

The first thing you should pay attention to is the deviation of the parts of the installed window unit from the vertical and horizontal lines. Let us remind you that modern standards allow installation inaccuracies of up to 1.5 mm per linear meter or 3 mm for the entire product. The vertical is perhaps best checked using a plumb line and a tape measure attached near the window, measuring the distance from the thread stretched under the weight of the cone to the window profile. When using this method, the dimensions of the product do not matter, because we have the opportunity to take measurements along the entire length of the profile. The horizontality of the parts can be checked by placing control marks on the vertical window profiles, including mullions, using a hydraulic level and subsequent measurements of the distance from them to the edges of the product. Note that only expensive rack levels allow more or less qualitative examination of deviations, but in most cases their length is clearly not enough to understand the overall picture.

If there are only vertical or only horizontal deviations, this means that the box is skewed and does not have right angles. The lengths of the diagonals are checked with a tape measure - the maximum permissible difference can be 8 mm.

Next, you should check the window for any deformations of the window profiles. For these purposes, a cord is pulled along the lines of the outer edges of the window profiles, from corner to corner - deviations are determined visually. A very common problem is the curvature of the middle of the side profiles towards the center of the window. This happens when installation is carried out on flexible anchor plates that are unable to contain the pressure of expanding foam, or if there are no spacers between the glass unit and the profile. Deflection of horizontal profiles occurs for the same reasons.

It is very important to check the correctness of the choice and technology for using a certain type of fastening elements. Very often, installers completely unreasonably prefer to use anchor plates for all occasions, since it is much easier to install the product with their help, in addition, they do not need to remove the sashes and remove the double-glazed windows. You should take the requirements regarding the number and location of fasteners as seriously as possible.

The absence of support blocks under the installation profile (most often under a vertical impost) or the use of homemade wooden wedges instead. As a rule, this error is paired with a more serious one - too small or zero installation gap at the bottom of the window.

Violation of the technology for constructing assembly seams consists mainly of too small gap sizes, discontinuity of insulating layers or their absence. The most common mistake can be considered overflow of foam material, which entails deformation of the profiles and the need to cut off excess sealant.

A related problem causes ventilation at the joints of the elements of the window system - the window sill, slope cladding, connecting, expansion, and turning profiles. This is a banal lack of sealing of their joints with self-expanding tapes or acrylic or silicone.

Often installers incorrectly mount connected window blocks, for example on glazed balconies. The windows are not located in the same plane - like a book. Checking this is quite simple; you should pull the cord in front of the front line of the window, from corner to corner, and take measurements with a tape measure.

It is also not uncommon for windows located next to each other to be placed not on the same horizontal line, or without connection to the geometry of the facade. For example, this is very relevant on a bay window, panoramic glazing, where one complex window sill can be used with several window blocks. And again, a water level will come to the rescue, making it possible to place mutually located horizontal marks at a sufficient distance.

We will definitely look at problems that arise due to errors when assembling PVC windows and ways to solve them in the following articles.

How to avoid poor-quality installation of plastic windows?

  1. Use the services of a large company; it is better if it is a manufacturer of window systems rather than an intermediary.
  2. Study in detail the technology of installing PVC windows. It’s not for nothing that they say: “Aware means forearmed.”
  3. Prepare an area for storing materials. Free up as much space as possible window openings, cover the furniture and household appliances polyethylene, insulate the remaining rooms, fence off the work area outside.
  4. Discuss everything with the measurer technological nuances, be constantly present during installation - do not forget about large quantities hidden work.
  5. Before and after installing windows, check the integrity of the profiles and glass units, and the functionality of the fittings.
  6. Do not sign the acceptance certificate for new windows until you check the quality of their installation.
  7. If you later discover problems - blowing, rubbing, then feel free to contact the contractor with a request to fix the problems. In the vast majority of cases, all problems are promptly resolved by the manufacturer.

Reading time: 7 minutes.

More recently, in the glazing of residential buildings and industrial buildings, exclusively wooden window frames were used. Today, many consider them relics of the past and are in a hurry to replace them with modern ones. metal-plastic structures. After all, in addition to high performance characteristics, they are much cheaper than wooden frames. To install plastic windows with your own hands, you don’t need to have superpowers. Almost any person who can hold a tool in their hands can cope with such a task.

However, do not forget that each job requires certain skills and craftsmanship. Lack of experience in installing windows can lead to a number of troubles. These are systematic breakdowns, loose fit and high throughput of street air into the apartment.

To avoid the above points, in this article we will provide step by step instructions, which will help you install your windows correctly and efficiently. If you still decide to trust professionals, know that some of them are not really professionals, and for a number of reasons they openly neglect certain stages of proper installation (some save time, others save money). Having an idea of ​​the work being carried out, you can easily exercise independent control over the entire process. And subsequently you will enjoy the high-quality operation of your windows, which will bring joy to all family members.

The main stages of installing new windows:

  • taking measurements;
  • dismantling old windows;
  • preparing openings;
  • installation of a metal-plastic structure.

Not everyone knows that the manufacturer gives absolutely no guarantee for its services when installing windows. on our own. Therefore, if various troubles arise during the installation process, you should not hope for a return or replacement. All metal-plastic structures are manufactured strictly according to pre-agreed dimensions. If you make a mistake, the window may not fit in the opening or may end up being much smaller. And it will only be your fault. The company's employees are solely responsible for the implementation of each stage of product installation.

Also, any inaccuracy made when installing a metal-plastic window will deprive you and your loved ones of all advantages modern design and expected level of comfort.

Window measurements

When taking the necessary measurements, you need to pay attention to the fact that window openings exist with and without a quarter. Accordingly, their formulas for calculating sizes are different.

For the first case, we must measure the width of the opening between the existing quarters, this is done at the narrowest point. And then add 3-4 cm to the resulting figures - this will be the width of our plastic frame. In addition, it is important to check: the largest distance between the vertical quarters should not exceed the design width of the block.

Read also: "Kärcher" for washing windows: features of use and advantages


The height is determined by measuring between the top quarter and bottom surface of the window opening.

If the window opening is without a quarter, the required values ​​can be obtained by subtracting 5 cm from the vertical dimension (to place a window sill) and 3 cm from the horizontal dimension.

When determining the size of the window sill and ebb, it is worth considering the following details:

  1. Often the size of a window sill is chosen based on its functionality. It should cover the heating radiators and house flowers should be placed on it;
  2. The length of the window sill is taken to be 8-10 cm longer than the window opening, its edges should be recessed into the cavity of the slope by approximately 4-5 cm;
  3. The dimensions of the ebb are calculated taking into account the planned insulation. It is recommended to leave it protruding 5-10 cm from the wall.

Features of measuring balcony windows

When calculating the width of balcony windows, the length of the parapet is taken as a basis; the entire structure will rest on it. Also, on both sides it is necessary to subtract 6-7 cm, which will be needed for installing the corner profile; it is used to connect the window blocks of the front and side parts. The distance from the roof to the railing, with the exception of the difference of 2.5-3 cm, which is important to set aside for gaps for fastening, will be the height.

Regarding the side balcony frames, their dimensions are determined in the same way. The only thing is that you need to subtract 6-7 cm from the width to install the corner profile, as well as 2.5-3 cm for the gap from the wall to the window.


Features of window measurements in private houses and old buildings

When taking measurements of windows in private houses and old buildings, it is recommended to first knock off part of the slopes on both sides (in the measurement areas). This is done in order to see what the space occupied by the window opening is like. It often happens that there are dilapidated cement mortar and various insulation materials, which can crumble during disassembly of an existing window. The positive point here is that the new plastic structure can be slightly enlarged by expanding the cleaned window opening.

Ordering a metal-plastic window

Before contacting a company with an order, you should think about what type of double-glazed window is right for you. It can be one-, two- or three-chamber. As for fittings and fasteners, you can also choose them yourself.

WITH technical characteristics The manufacturer's consultants will help you figure out which plastic windows will be preferable for your home at the time of ordering.

Some important points during installation

When installing windows yourself, you should pay attention to the following:

  • the metal-plastic structure must be well secured;
  • polyurethane foam, which fixed the windows, must be plastered on both sides (this will prevent it from sagging and deforming the frame in the future);
  • It is very important to align the structure vertically and horizontally using a level (this will help avoid warping).

How to install metal-plastic windows with your own hands

Before starting installation, prepare everything you need for work:

  1. Window frame with fasteners;
  2. Building level;
  3. Polyurethane foam;
  4. Mount;
  5. Bulgarian;
  6. Windowsill.

The process of preparing a window block

Window preparation is important stage installation work that you do with your own hands. If necessary, the double-glazed windows and hinged sashes themselves are dismantled from the window structure. To release the double-glazed window, a chisel is used; very carefully, you need to use it to pick out the glazing bead (fastening) and after a light blow on the tool it will come out of the grooves. Then the vertical fasteners are removed, top and bottom. The released glazing beads will need to be marked; sometimes their sizes can differ significantly, which will lead to the formation of gaps of several millimeters. The glass unit will come out of the grooves on its own if you tilt the frame a little. Gently lean it against the wall, creating a slight angle.

Installing PVC windows in compliance with the rules given in GOST 30971, adopted in 2012, will allow you to significantly extend their service life, avoid glass fogging and protect window openings from dampness. You can find out how to install a plastic window according to GOST, and what materials to use for this, by reading our article.

For quality and fast work you will need the following set of tools:

  • Hammer.
  • Electric jigsaw.
  • Drill-driver.
  • Nail puller.
  • Sledgehammer.
  • Level.
  • Yardstick.
  • Pencil.
  • "Bulgarian".
  • Silicone gun.
  • Square.
  • Metal scissors.
  • Putty knife.
  • Slick.
  • Rubber hammer.
  • Pliers.
  • Brush.


Depending on the type of window opening and window model, you may need additional tools not included in the list.

In addition to tools, to install a plastic window you must have the following consumables:

    • Vapor barrier tapes are needed to hide the foam seam indoors. Tapes can be metallized or fabric-based. Metallized tapes are used for “dry” finishing of window openings ( plastic slopes, plasterboard or PVC panels). Vapor barrier tape on a fabric basis, designed for finishing materials on water based(plaster, plaster, etc.).

    • Diffusion tape– needed as a lining under the window cornice. This tape has the ability to allow air to pass through, but not water to pass through.

    • Substrate under the window sill– this is a tape on a metallized base, with a layer of insulation, which serves as a heat and vapor barrier.

    • Anchor plates– window fastenings connecting the frame to the window opening. Anchor plates allow you to fix the window in the opening without through holes in frame.

    • Self-tapping screws – secure the anchor plates to the window.

    • Dowel screws – connect the anchor plates to the window opening.

    • Primer composition– intended for surface treatment where vapor barrier tapes are glued.

    • Wooden wedges– needed for intermediate fastening of the window in the opening and setting the level.

    • Stand profile– is attached to the bottom of the frame and serves as a stand under the window and a mount for the cornice and window sill.

    • Plastic window sill– comes complete with the window, but if desired, can be replaced with window sills made of other materials.

    • Drain - rarely included in the basic set of a plastic window, usually ordered separately.

  • Polyurethane foam - used to fill seams and as an additional fastening element.

Preparatory work

Dismantling

If it is necessary to dismantle the old window, perform the following steps:

  1. Remove all sashes from their hinges.
  2. Remove the glazing beads and remove the glass from the fixed sections of the window.
  3. Detach the trim, drain and sill from the frame.
  4. Remove the mortar and foam between the frame and the window opening.
  5. Using a grinder, cut off all frame fastenings.
  6. Pull the frame out of the opening.
  7. Remove any remaining foam and mortar from the frame location.

Window preparation

Before installing a plastic window in the opening, it is necessary to make a series of preparatory work:

  1. Remove the window sashes from their hinges by knocking out the awning rods using a hammer and screwdriver.
  2. Remove the glass panes from the fixed sections of the window. To do this, you need to knock out the glazing beads from the mounting grooves; this can be done using a rubber hammer and a wide chisel or spatula.
  3. Attach the support profile to the bottom crossbar of the frame. When connecting the profile and frame, use PSUL as a spacer between them.
  4. Install anchor strips around the perimeter of the window. The tapes are screwed to the frame and stand profile using screws. For ease of installation, lead the ends of the anchor strips indoors. Depending on the size of the window, from 2 to 4 fasteners are installed on each side of the frame.
  5. Glue the PSUL onto the top and side posts of the frame, so that the tape protects the outer seam after filling it with foam.
  6. Apply diffusion tape to the support profile with outside window.
  7. For guard inside seams, glue vapor barrier tape to the frame.

Installation of a window in an opening

After all the preparatory work, install the frame in the window opening:

  1. Secure the frame in the opening using wedges.
  2. Check the correct horizontal and vertical position of the frame with a level.
  3. Having aligned the frame in the correct position, through the holes in the anchor strips, mark the places for the dowel screws.
  4. After drilling holes with a hammer drill, secure the frame in the window opening using anchor strips.
  5. Using a brush and primer, treat the areas where vapor barrier tapes and PSULs are glued.
  6. Fill the space between the frame and the window opening with low expansion foam.
  7. After the foam has dried, trim off any excess.
  8. Glue the PSUL and vapor barrier tape to the window opening.

Installation of drain and window sill

  1. Spread the diffusion tape and place the drain on it.
  2. Attach the drain to the stand profile using self-tapping screws.
  3. Cut the window sill according to the shape of the window opening slopes.
  4. In the place where the window sill will be located, lay metallized tape with insulation.
  5. Insert the window sill into the support profile and secure it with screws.
  6. Seal the gaps between the frame, drain and window sill with silicone sealant.

Final works

  1. Insert double-glazed windows into the window sections, securing them with glazing beads.
  2. Place the sashes in their places.
  3. Check the operation of the window handles and mechanisms.

The plastic window is installed, all that remains is to finish the opening slopes and then remove the protective film.

You can also view detailed instructions for installing a plastic window using GOST standards in the video:

Due to their durability, ease of use, and relatively simple installation, plastic windows are considered the most popular today. On average, professionals spend no more than 1.5 hours installing plastic windows. But the price of their virtuosity is not so cheap.

Plastic windows are modern and convenient translucent systems that retain the heat of the room in the cold season or allow you to choose the optimal ventilation mode in hot weather.

Most people are looking for opportunities to save money, because renovating an apartment is already expensive, so if there is free time, then you can perform the installation yourself. To do this, you just need to carefully study the technology and rules for their installation. Moreover, we can confidently say that if you make one window, then a skill will appear and, accordingly, subsequent glazing of openings will be done much faster and with better quality.

Before you begin, you should know that installation plastic structures can be done in two different ways, each of them has its own characteristics.

Installation method with unpacking

Unpacking method. It consists in the fact that the window is disassembled before installation.

This method includes preliminary disassembly of the window. To do this, the glazing beads are removed, the double-glazed windows are removed from the frame and, during installation, are put aside. Afterwards, the frame is attached to the surface using anchors or dowels. Then all the components of the window are put in place. It should be noted that with such an installation, the window may fog up in the future and, during dismantling of the components, chips and cracks may appear, which will ultimately affect the appearance. However, such a method is sometimes simply necessary. In the event that the apartment where the windows are installed is located on high floors and the opening has big sizes(more than 2 by 2 m), then this option is preferable, since the windows there are more exposed to gusts of wind and aggression external environment. This is the most reliable way. Additional strength can be achieved by attaching the frame not with dowels, but with long anchors.

Installation without unpacking

The no-unpacking method means that the glass unit does not need to be disassembled before installing it.

This method differs from the first in that in this case the removal of beads and double-glazed windows does not occur, since the frame is not attached directly to the opening through and through, but is installed using pre-prepared fasteners on the outer side of the surface of the frame itself. This is usually the most common technology in private homes. This method has virtually no disadvantages and is used more often than the first, of course, if the above nuances are not present. In other words right choice The method will be determined by the following factors: type of construction of the building, size of the opening, number of storeys, wind loads on the window. In addition, if the window being installed has sliding sashes, which, with constant use, will carry an impact load on the entire structure, then this method It is better not to use settings.

Related article: How to independently adjust a plastic balcony door

Basic Rules

Diagram of a plastic window: 1 - Frame; 2 - Door; 3 - Double-glazed window; 4 - Drain; 5 - Stand profile; 6 - Window sill; 7 - Connecting profile; 8 - Slope panel

It should be taken into account that if you violate the installation rules, then the seams will be exposed to moisture, direct contact with them sun rays and sudden temperature changes will lead to their destruction and, as a consequence, to the loss of sound and heat insulation properties. Accordingly, in this case, the owner of the apartment will be disappointed: instead of the expected warmth and sound insulation, she will receive even more cold room than the one that was before installing the new window.

It's no secret that hired installers also often make gross mistakes, so if there is no reliable construction company nearby or the budget does not allow hiring expensive specialists, then in this case, installing plastic windows on your own will be the best and most reliable option, because windows installed with love, will last a long time. To do this, you need to study the rules and sequence of the entire installation process.

Sequence of installation work

PVC window frames are securely installed in the window opening using side anchors or fastening plates.

  1. preparing the premises for renovation work (furniture should be covered with protective film, floor coverings are removed, the space should be free at a distance of 2 m from the opening);
  2. dismantling;
  3. preparation of the opening: it must be cleaned of dust, dirt, there should be no protrusions larger than 1 cm, all deep cracks must be sealed with dense insulating material;
  4. preparing a new window for installation;
  5. marking the frame where the fasteners will be located, as well as making holes in these places;
  6. making holes for fasteners;
  7. leveling the window;
  8. direct window installation;
  9. sealing cracks with foam;
  10. low tide installation;
  11. installation of a window sill;
  12. final adjustment of fittings and installation of handles.

Step by step description

Installation of windows must be carried out during the day and experts do not recommend postponing it until tomorrow. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to have all the necessary set tools that need to be taken care of in advance. By the way, having bought it once, such tools will come in handy in the house more than once.

Bulgarian – universal tool, otherwise called corner Grinder(angle grinder), used for leveling surfaces, removing layers of paint or rust.

Required set of tools:

  • jigsaw;
  • construction knife;
  • hammer;
  • Bulgarian;
  • level;
  • gun with polyurethane foam;
  • screwdriver;
  • roulette;
  • pencil;
  • set of hexagons;
  • silicone gun;
  • hammer drill

Material:

  • plastic window;
  • polyurethane foam;
  • metal screws (4 mm) and dowels;
  • fastening elements (anchor plates);
  • low tide;
  • white silicone.

Related article: How to properly attach drywall to a wall

Installation process and order

The sashes are removed from the window. Window casings are dismantled. If necessary, the slopes are dismantled (knocked down).

So, the room is prepared for renovation work and after that the installation process itself begins. Of course, first you need to dismantle the old frames. To do this, the glass is removed, cuts are made in the old frame with a grinder, and the frame itself is removed piece by piece using a hammer drill. Instead of a hammer drill, you can use a crowbar. If there is a wooden window sill, it is dismantled using a similar method. A concrete window sill can be easily removed with a regular hammer. After dismantling works the surface must be thoroughly cleaned of debris and dust.

Next, preparations for installation are made. At this stage, it is important to know that if the window is not solid, then all mechanisms should be closed. Otherwise, when sealing the gaps between the frame and the opening with foam, the profile may move in such a way that it bends in an arc. The rules for installing plastic windows state that the protective film should be removed only when Finishing work completed; Handles should not be installed, as this may result in the window opening unintentionally. Also, after the openings are filled with foam, the window must be closed for at least 12 hours.

The sashes are removed from the plastic window and the glass unit is removed. The window frame is inserted into the prepared opening and secured with anchor bolts or mounting plates.

The fasteners must be placed on all sides of the frame, so markings should be made along the entire perimeter of the window in increments of 70 cm. The distance from the outer fasteners should be at least 10-15 cm. After the markings are made, fasteners are screwed to the frame using self-tapping screws (anchor plates) so that the screw goes deep into the profile and reaches the metal (bent channel), which is located inside the structure. Then the window is placed next to the opening, and marks are made directly on it. Next, at these marks where the fasteners will be installed, recesses are made for them.

After this, the window should be leveled. To facilitate this process, can be used wooden blocks, which must be placed under the transverse parts of the structure in the following sequence: first the two lower ones, then the two upper ones. As a result, the window frame should be perfectly level both horizontally and vertically. You can check the correct installation using building level. After making sure that the frame is level, you can proceed directly to the fastening. This is done using dowels.

Low tides perform not only decorative role, but also have waterproofing properties, so at this stage it is necessary to install this element. To prevent water from getting into the junction of the ebb and frame in the future, it is best to install it under the window. If this is not possible, then it should be attached directly to the window frame (metal screws are excellent for this). Not all installed windows face the street, so if, for example, it is combined with a kitchen or balcony, then window sills are used instead of a low tide.

When planning to replace old windows with new ones, many wonder how difficult it is to install them yourself. The answer is a job of medium complexity. In terms of time, replacing a medium-sized window with dismantling the old one takes about 3.5-4.5 hours. This is for a person with no experience. Company employees who do this all the time spend less than an hour on it. But the installation of plastic windows by the owner of the premises cannot be compared with the hasty work of “professionals”. They simplify the process to the point of indecency, arguing that prices have not been raised for 6 years and they have no time to waste time on trifles. If you are lucky to find truly masters, then you can entrust the installation to them. If not, take a weekend and install it yourself.

Construction of plastic windows

To properly understand the installation process, you need to have an understanding of window design. Let's start with materials and names. Plastic windows are made of polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Hence the second name - PVC windows.

The main element of any window is the frame. For plastic windows, the frame is made from a special multi-chamber profile. It is divided by partitions into a number of cells - chambers. The more of these cells, the warmer the window will be. When they talk about how many cameras there will be in a plastic window, they have the number of cells in the profile.

In the middle of the structure, in the very big cell, insert visible of blue color. This is a reinforcing element of increased rigidity. It gives the profile the required strength. In plastic windows this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic windows it is made of metal (usually aluminum). That's the whole difference between them.

There is also a division of profiles into classes: economy, standard and premium. Optimal choice, if you need normal windows, use the standard class. In economy class, the partitions are too thin and they begin to freeze almost from the moment they are installed. Premium has a high price due to options that, in fact, are not needed.

If you want to have best profile for plastic windows, take the standard class of any factory. There is no particular difference between products from different companies. They have long been standardized and all managers’ stories about the advantages are fairy tales. If they are made on factory equipment, there is no difference between them: all factory profiles have long been standardized.

Window profiles as standard have White color, but they can also be brown - to match the color of any tree, and even pink - to order. Windows made from colored profiles are more expensive than similar white ones.

Window structure

To understand what is being discussed in the description of the installation process, you need to know the name of each component of the structure.

It consists of:

  • Frames. This is the base of the window.
  • If the window consists of several parts, the frame is divided into parts by an impost - a vertical component. If the window is made of two parts, there is one impost; If there are three parts, there are two, etc.
  • The opening part of the window is called the sash, the stationary part is called the capercaillie. A double-glazed window is inserted into them - two, three or more glasses, hermetically sealed together. A foil tape is laid between the glasses to ensure tightness. There are double-glazed windows with special properties: with reinforced glass, tinted and energy efficient, which, according to manufacturers, reduces heat loss through the windows. There are also double-glazed windows with inert gas pumped between the glass panes. It also reduces heat loss.
  • Double-glazed windows are pressed to the frame with a cap - a thin plastic strip. The tightness of the connection is ensured by a rubber seal (it is usually black).
  • Locking fittings are installed on the sashes. This is a specific set of mechanisms that provide opening and locking. They can be different, as they provide different functionality: opening, opening with ventilation, opening + ventilation + micro-ventilation.
  • To ensure tightness, rubber seals are installed on all parts - frame, impost and sashes.

At the bottom of the outside of the frame (the one facing the street) there is drainage holes, which are closed with special caps. Through them, condensation that forms inside due to the difference in temperature outside and indoors is discharged outside.

The window also has a sill - a board on the outside that removes precipitation and a window sill on the inside. Side and top parts from the street and indoors. They can also be made of plastic or made using a different technology.

How to measure a plastic window

When ordering windows, you will be asked for six sizes: the height and width of the window, the length and width of the window sill and slope. To measure everything correctly, you need to determine whether your window opening is made with a quarter or without.

Inspect the opening. If the outer part of the window is narrower, the opening is a quarter. In this case, measurements are taken at the narrowest point: openings rarely have ideal geometry, so you will have to measure at several points. Find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. Transmit the height as it is.

If the opening is smooth, the calculation proceeds differently. Measure the width and height. Subtract 3 cm from the measured width and 5 cm from the height. This will be the height and width of your window. We remove 3 cm in width, since a gap of at least 1.5 cm is required on both sides under the mounting foam. We subtract 5 cm in height, since the same 1.5 cm is needed on top, and 3.5 cm on the bottom will be used to install the window sill.

The length of the window sill and ebb is taken with a margin - 5-10 cm more than the width of the window opening. During installation, both the ebb and the window sill are “recessed” a little into the adjacent walls, and the excess will go there. The width of the tides is standard, so the nearest larger one is chosen. On window sills the situation is different. Its width is chosen arbitrarily - at the request of the owner. Some people like them wide so they can put something, others prefer them flush with the wall. So there are no rules here.

When ordering, you will need to indicate how many and what parts will be in your window: whether there is a capercaillie or not, where it is located, how many sashes, which side they are on, how they should open. You will need to indicate the type of fittings (ventilation, micro-ventilation).

Preparation

If you are replacing windows, installing plastic windows yourself begins with dismantling the old one. Problems usually do not arise: breaking does not build. After dismantling, it is necessary to inspect the opening: remove everything that can fall off. If there are any protruding parts, they must be removed - using a hammer, chisel or power tool. When the plane is leveled, you need to remove all construction garbage. Ideally, sweep everything away, even the dust, otherwise during installation the foam will not “grab” well on the wall.

If there are too large potholes or cavities, it is better to cover them up cement mortar. The smoother the opening, the easier the installation will be. If the wall material is loose, they can be treated with binding compounds: penetrating adhesive primers.

How to install correctly: choosing an installation method

There are two different methods: with and without unpacking (disassembling) the window. When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame and anchors are driven through them into the wall. This method is more complicated, but the fastening is more reliable.

This is a setup for anchor bolt. There are three of them on each side.

When installing without unpacking, metal plates are attached to the outside of the frame, and then they are attached to the walls. This is naturally faster, but the fastening is very unreliable: under significant wind loads, the frame will warp or it will sag.

If you really don’t want to disassemble the window, you can mount it on a plate, but use not narrow and thin ones, but thick and wide ones, which are often used when installing a rafter system.

In principle, small windows installed on mounting plates, provided there are no significant wind loads, can stand normally. If you live in a region with strong winds, and they blow mainly through your windows, if the apartment is located in a high-rise building, in these cases installation with unpacking is necessary.

Below, watch an emotional and intelligible video that explains why it is better to use anchors.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: step-by-step instructions

Let's describe both methods: suddenly you need a method with mounting on plates. It is used in buildings made of foam blocks, load bearing capacity which are small and the load from the windows has to be distributed over a large surface. This method of installing plastic windows is also necessary if the building is built using “layered” technology. For example, there is concrete in front and behind, and a layer of insulation between them. If the window must stand in the soft layer, then it will need to be secured with plates. Installation of PVC windows in brick, cinder block, panel, etc. the house is desirable on the anchor.

Installation and unpacking

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with measurements. Measure the frame and window opening to make sure they are compatible. Afterwards you can start working. The process begins with disassembling (unpacking) the PVC window. Here are the steps:

        1. Removing the window sash:
          • Close the window (the handle is turned down).
          • Remove the plastic covers on both hinges. They are pryed off with a screwdriver.
          • There is a pin on the top hinge that provides a movable connection. It is located in the center and protrudes slightly. They press on it until it sinks (you can take a metal plate, rest it against the pin and lightly tap the plate). The pin will slide out from below. Now you can grab it with side cutters or pliers and pull it down and pull it out.
          • Hold the door up and open the lock. To do this, place the handle in a horizontal position. Rejecting top part slightly toward you, lift the sash, removing it from the lower pin.

          The entire sash has been removed. To make it clearer, watch the video. It describes in detail how to remove and install the sash on a plastic window.

        2. On the wood grouse, remove the glass unit. It is held in place by glazing beads. They need to be removed, then the glass unit itself will be removed without any problems. Remove the glazing beads like this:
          • Something narrow and strong is inserted into the gap between the bead and the frame. If you don't have a special tool, it's best to use a small spatula. Disassembly begins from one of the long sides.
          • The spatula is carefully pushed into the crack with a corner and the glazing bead is gradually moved away from the frame.
          • Without removing the tool, move along a little, again pushing the glazing bead to the side.
          • This goes along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead is almost separated; it is simply removed.
          • With the short side, everything is simpler: you pry up the free edge and, by turning the spatula, remove it from the groove. Grab the free edge with your hand and pull up.

          Now you can try to remove the glass unit. Just be careful: it's heavy. If that doesn't work, remove another one of the beads. Just make sure that the window is tilted and the glass unit does not fall out. Now, if necessary, you can replace the double-glazed window yourself. Watch a video on how to remove glazing beads from PVC windows.

      1. The freed frame is covered with a special self-adhesive tape along the outer perimeter. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With it the window doesn't get so cold.

      2. Remove the protective tape with the campaign logo. If you leave it, it will fuse too much with the frame under the influence of the sun and it will be problematic to remove it.
      3. The prepared frame is inserted into the window opening. Mounting wedges are used to position it. They must be installed in the corners and under the impost. The rest are arranged as needed. By placing them, the window is set strictly level in three planes. The position of the window is pre-fixed. This is what you can use mounting plates for.

      4. Take a drill and a drill bit that matches the diameter of the anchors. Make holes for fasteners. 150-180 mm retreat from the top edge. This is the first hole. The bottom one is approximately the same distance from the bottom corner. Another anchor is installed between them in a standard window: the maximum distance between two fasteners should not be more than 700 mm.
      5. Having made a hole, check whether the frame has moved (level in all three planes), then hammer in the anchor and tighten it. You cannot overtighten: the profile should not sag. Repeat this operation the required number of times.

      6. Install ebb tides outside. To do this, first a vapor-permeable waterproofing is glued to the outer part of the frame (it is self-adhesive). Small grooves are made on the sides of the window opening, into which the edges of the tides are then inserted.

      7. A layer of foam is applied to the part of the window opening from the outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall. Sometimes, if the height difference is large, a lining profile is installed here. and then an olive is attached to it. The ebb, cut to size, is placed under the projection of the frame and there it is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.

      8. Along the lower edge the ebb also foams.

      9. Next, foam the opening. When installing plastic windows in the summer, the gap between the frame and the window opening is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This is necessary for better polymerization of the foam.
      10. A vapor-permeable heat-insulating strip is glued along the contour of the frame - it is also recommended by GOST.
      11. Take a balloon with foam and fill the existing gaps to 2/3 of the volume. If the gap is large - more than 2-3 cm - foam is applied in several stages. A time interval of 10-15 minutes is required between two layers. When the first layer is partially dry, it is also sprinkled with water and the second is applied. This is repeated until the volume is 2/3 filled.

        When installing PVC windows with your own hands, foaming can be done in several stages - depending on the size of the gap

      12. Without waiting for complete polymerization, the free edge of the heat-insulating tape is glued to the window opening. Just note that when using tape, the slopes will need to be made of plastic: the plaster and mortar will not “stick” to it.
      13. Assemble all parts of the window. All that remains is the finishing work, and they are not a hindrance.
      14. A vapor barrier tape is also installed under the window sill in the lower part (also GOST recommendations). The window sill rests on support blocks made of durum varieties impregnated wood. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. They are made in such a way that the window sill is slightly inclined towards the room (about 5°).

Watch the video to learn how to correctly install a window sill when installing a plastic window. There are many secrets.

The last to be installed or sealed are the slopes. One more video on this matter.

Installation without unpacking

The main details are described above, so this chapter is short. Installation for this option begins with the installation of mounting plates. They are of two types: U-shaped and linear. It is important to choose the most reliable thick metal ones.

They are installed at the same distance as the anchors: 150-250 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the middle ones. They are simply screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Then installing plastic windows with your own hands with mounting plates is identical to that described above, starting from the moment the window is leveled in the opening. Only they attach not the frame, but the plates, and not to anchors, but to dowel-nails. Drill a hole, bend the plate, insert a dowel, put the plate in place and tighten the dowel. Further all actions are identical.

Now it’s clear why installers prefer them: a decent amount of work is spent on disassembly, anchoring, etc.: screws are much easier to tighten. True, if you take powerful plates, they will hold tightly. No worse than an anchor. For example, like in the video.