How to properly nail insulation to a door. Insulation of the wooden entrance door - the house will be warm! Filling with liquid polyurethane foam

Large heat losses in the house occur through the door block. The reason could be a skewed box, worn out seals, or simply a thin fabric. For insulation wooden door In a private home, comprehensive measures are taken to eliminate all defects.

Wood has low thermal conductivity, but the disadvantage of the material is its response to changes in humidity and temperature. The door block dries out, swells, warps and even cracks. There are three main reasons signaling the urgent need to insulate a wooden door in a country house:

1. Education gaps between the frame and the ends of the opening walls. Initially when installation work All gaps are foamed. Foam is good insulation, but loses its properties over time. Destruction occurs faster on the street side if platbands are not installed. Foam deteriorates from exposure to the sun. Another cause of cracks is the misalignment of the bowl.
2. Education gaps between the frame and the sash. The most common defect in a wooden entrance door occurs due to poor wood, poor quality installation and long-term operation. Often the owner himself becomes the culprit when he trims the swollen sash so that it closes better. After drying, the product decreases in size and a gap forms.
3. Wear of insulation. Every thermal insulation material selected taking into account operational requirements. If they were not initially followed, the incorrectly selected insulation loses its effectiveness. For example, mineral wool quickly cakes, and due to dampness it decreases in volume.
   Any old wooden door, as well as a thin leaf, needs to be insulated.

Which insulation is better to choose?

To make an insulated wooden door with your own hands, you will need thermal insulation material, as well as material for the top decorative finish. The gaps are sealed with a sealant. When the question arises of how to insulate a wooden door in a private house, pay attention to the following materials:

• Styrofoam better to use as internal insulation wooden entrance doors. The slabs can be sheathed on the side of the room.

• Foam rubber It is considered the most common insulation, which is covered with artificial leather on top. Porous material allows you to create a volume effect. Foam rubber loses over time and crumbles into crumbs.

• Minvata does not burn, has good thermal insulation properties, but quickly cakes. When exposed to dampness, it accumulates moisture. Under the weight it slides off a vertical surface.

• Foamed polyethylene– isolon has a structure similar to foam rubber. The material has better thermal insulation properties and a longer service life. Isolon does not tolerate long-term exposure to direct sunlight.

• Polyurethane foam It is applied by spraying, firmly adheres to the wood, and penetrates into all cracks. The disadvantage is the impossibility of performing work without special equipment.

• Expanded polystyrene resembles polystyrene foam, but has improved characteristics. The material has self-extinguishing properties when exposed to open fire.

When choosing insulation for doors wooden house It is important to consider the thickness of the material. Thick layers will weigh down the sash and create an obstacle to normal closing. Thin is useless. You need to find a middle ground between these two parameters.

Types of seals for door frames

In addition to thermal insulation, you will need a sealant to seal the cracks around the perimeter of the canvas. It is a tape that differs in thickness and material:

• foam strip fixed with an adhesive base. The seal wears out quickly during the season.

• Silicone strip resistant to dampness, elastic. Over time, it begins to stick and tear into pieces.

• rubber rubber seal for wooden doors will last long years. The tape is resistant to wear, dampness, and mechanical stress.

• Thermoplastic- the best in terms of wear resistance, but difficult to install.

• Polyurethane strip sticks due to the sticky base. The characteristics are not inferior to a rubber seal.

Thermal insulation cannot be done without decorative finishing. Usually the insulation is covered with artificial leather. Fixed with furniture nails with a wide decorative head. WITH inside the fabric is sheathed with laminated MDF panels. Genuine leather trim looks beautiful, but the material is very expensive.

How to insulate a wooden door?

Begin insulating a wooden door with preparatory work:

• weakened hinges are secured with new elongated screws;
• if thick, heavy insulation is used, install an additional loop;
• eliminate box distortions and fabric defects;
• check the condition of the seal around the perimeter of the door frame at the junction with the walls;
• replace broken fittings: lock, handles, peephole, latch.

After all defects have been eliminated, installation of insulation on wooden entrance doors begins.

A frequently asked question is whether it is necessary vapor barrier when insulating wooden doors? When arranging installation joints door block– needed. The gap between the box and the wall is sealed with foam. To prevent the thermal insulation from deteriorating, the seam is covered from the street with PSUL tape. From the room side, the foam is destroyed by vapors. For protection, the seam is sealed with vapor barrier tape. A vapor barrier may be required for the product if it is installed in a damp room and mineral wool serves as thermal insulation.

Installing a seal on a door frame

The first salvation from heat loss is to install a seal on a wooden door to eliminate gaps between the sash and the frame. The tape is selected according to the thickness corresponding to the size of the gap. A thin strip is useless, and a thick strip will interfere with the normal closing of the canvas. Installation of the seal consists of the following steps:

1. Measure the gaps between the sash and the frame and select the thickness of the tape.
2. A self-adhesive seal is glued into the groove around the perimeter of the bowl.
3. The silicone tape is fixed with staples construction stapler.

If the gap size is different around the perimeter of the door block, which often happens during deformation, the groove in the frame is widened and deepened. The edge of the blade is passed with a grinder. A two-layer or three-layer tape is glued to the new groove.

A properly glued seal should fit snugly around the entire perimeter of the sash and not interfere with its free closing.

Sealing with rollers

You can insulate the joint around the perimeter of the door frame using leatherette rollers with foam rubber inserted inside.

• Measure the length of all sides of the sash. According to the results, four strips of 100 mm wide are cut out of leatherette.
• The strips are placed against the edge of the sash with the wrong side up. Near the edge of the door leaf, the leatherette is fixed with a stapler.
• Thick foam rubber is placed inside each strip and a roll is formed.
• Secure the second edge of the leatherette with a stapler.

The door block becomes more beautiful, and all the gaps are hidden under the rollers.

Insulation of the canvas

To maximize the insulation of a wooden door with your own hands, use the method of double-sided thermal insulation. The sash is lined externally and internally. From the outside, the thermal insulation is covered with a material that is resistant to aggressive weather conditions. To insulate front door from the inside, foam rubber and artificial leather are most often used. Insulation of a wooden door occurs in the following order:

• To make the work easier, the canvas is removed from its hinges and freed from old insulation, handles, locks and other fittings.
• A fragment larger than the dimensions of the sash is cut out of the thermal insulation material. It’s good if about 100 mm of foam rubber hangs from each side.

• The insulation along the edge of the door is fixed with staples. The hanging ends are cut with scissors.
• The foam is covered with artificial leather on top. Rollers are formed from the hanging edges and secured with furniture nails. General plane the canvases are decorated with a pattern. It turns out after nailing. The soft foam rubber between the wide caps forms beautiful bulges. Between the fasteners you can stretch wire or strips of dermantine sewn with a tube.

Upon completion of the work, all fittings are installed and the insulated product is hung on the box.

If polystyrene or polystyrene is chosen to insulate the door block, the final cladding is usually done with MDF. The sash increases in thickness and weight. The door block is additionally reinforced with hinges. A frame is nailed to the surface of the slatted sheet, forming cells. Foam boards They are laid tightly, and the gaps between the slats are filled with foam. MDF is fixed on top.

You can glue thin slabs of foam to the door leaf without making a frame. For decorative finishing, artificial leather is used.

Installation of double doors

A good way to insulate your home is to install a double entry door. Due to the formation of an air space separating the room from the street, heat is retained. The disadvantage of this design is the reduction in space.

For indoor unit set the threshold. Insulation is additionally laid on the slopes between the doors. There are designs where two doors are hinged on one deep frame.

When insulating entrance doors, you must remember that moisture affects the canvas from the street side. Treatment with impregnation, painting with paint or varnish will help protect against dampness as much as possible. Drying oil creates good waterproofing.

Today, wooden entrance doors are practically not used. Metal doors are installed in modern private houses and cottages, providing more reliable protection premises. However, many houses still have wooden doors. For example, in a country house or in a rural house, or in an apartment in a multi-story building.

Old street doors need insulation, because... Wood tends to dry out, cracks appear in the door leaf, and the door itself can become tightly deformed over time and move away from the frame. All this harms not only the aesthetic component of the door, but also its operational properties. Despite the fact that wood is a good heat insulator, the door block needs additional insulation.

Let's consider in detail how to insulate a wooden door for the winter from the outside and inside so that it does not blow and the cold does not pass into the house. There are several methods of thermal insulation, depending on the type of thermal insulation material used.

How to insulate a wooden door in a private house or apartment

IN standard set materials for door insulation include three components:

1. insulation;
2. seal;
3. decorative material for finishing: dermantine, faux leather, thick fabric.

Can buy ready set for insulating the front door (cost from 490 rubles). This set consists of dermantine, foam rubber, rollers for decorating the door, tapes for securing the dermantine around the perimeter and center of the canvas, nails with decorative caps and a sealant.

But, as the masters advise, you can select the necessary materials for the work yourself, i.e. buy separately. It will be, if not cheaper, then better in quality.

• foam rubber(45-900 rubles/sq.m.) Due to the fact that the door leaf of a wooden door is solid, insulation is done on top of it. For this purpose, soft insulation materials that can hold their shape well are best suited. Door insulation with foam rubber is justified by the low price of the material, availability, and ease of installation. It also gives you the opportunity to choose required thickness, because Available in a thickness range from 3 to 100 mm. To insulate a wooden door, foam rubber up to 30 mm thick is used.

• isolon(thickness from 2 to 20 mm). Available in two types: foil (price - 150-270 rubles/sq.m.) and regular (70-80 rubles/sq.m.). The advantage of isolon is the thin thickness of the material, which ensures excellent thermal insulation of wooden doors without significantly increasing their dimensions.

• batting, synthetic padding, felt. These materials can also be used as insulation materials, but they are rarely used;

• mineral wool (price 70-250 rubles/sq.m.) Serves as an excellent insulation, but the thickness of the mineral wool increases the dimensions of the door, which does not make it a good alternative to foam rubber;

• Styrofoam(from 2500 rub./m3). Rigid insulation, used for external insulation of the door. Installation of polystyrene foam requires the manufacture of a frame and the use of rigid decorative material(for the covering panel), which entails an increase in the thickness and weight of the door and the replacement of hinges. And in terms of thermal insulation properties, the foam on the door is similar to foam rubber with dermantine upholstery.

Calculation of the amount of material for insulating a wooden door

• insulation. The area of ​​the insulation is equal to the area of ​​the door leaf. As for the thickness, it should not interfere with the opening of the door. Users recommend using 30 mm thick insulation. It performs its functions well and can be securely fastened with nails;

• seal. The quantity is equal to the perimeter of the door frame;

• upholstery. The length and width of the door plus 300 mm of margin on the top and side.

Note. The amount of reserve depends on the height of the thermal insulation material.

Insulation of a wooden entrance door - technology

Note that in 9 out of 10 cases, the insulation of the doors of a wooden house is done from the outside.

Method 1 - insulation with upholstery

This is the easiest and least labor-intensive method to do it yourself. Dermantin or other finishing material, stretched over a wooden door and secured to it with nails. Due to the thermal insulation lining (foam rubber, synthetic winterizer) and the density of the dermantine itself, a warming effect is achieved.

Method 2 - complete thermal insulation with insulation

This option is more complex, it will take some time to complete, so you need to start work without waiting for the onset of cold weather, or order the services of a specialist. A professional will do the job much faster, but will cost more.

If you decide to insulate your wooden entrance door yourself, you will need step-by-step instruction, describing the order of work:

1. Inspection of the door frame. Often, over time, it becomes deformed, warps, etc., which leads to the appearance of drafts, because it's blowing from under the door. If the door frame is in critical condition (cannot be repaired), it is better to replace the door block. If not, repair it. We will tell you how to do this below.
2. Removing the door from its hinges. It is easier to carry out work if the door is raised above the floor. Users recommend placing it on 2-3 stools. This will also help prevent scratches on the face of the door that faces the floor.
3. Dismantling protruding elements and fittings. You need to remove the locks, handles, linings, peephole.
4. Installation of insulation.
5. Installation of handles, locks and peepholes.

The insulated and padded door is hung on its hinges and its functionality is checked.

How to insulate an old wooden door - video

How to insulate a wooden entrance door in a private house

Ways to cover a door with different types of insulation.

Insulating a wooden door with isolon or foam rubber

Installation of both materials is carried out using the same technology. Glue (liquid nails, dragon or PVA) is applied to the surface of the door and foam rubber/isolon is laid on it. Glue is needed to ensure that the insulation does not move during operation and operation. Subsequently, the insulation is secured with nails.

There are recommendations to fasten foam rubber with a construction stapler. But this is only acceptable if hard material is used as decoration. Otherwise, dents will be visible in those places where the material is pressed by the bracket. Or you need to fasten it in accordance with the intended pattern (scheme) of stud placement.

Advice. At the installation location door handle It is not advisable to install foam rubber, it will interfere with it reverse installation and functioning.

Insulating a wooden door with foam plastic

Installation of polystyrene foam, although rare, is also not difficult.

Option 1. Thin polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam (no thicker than 30 mm) is placed on the surface of the canvas and fixed to the surface using liquid nails and covered with finishing material.

Note. When installing foam plastic on the outside of a wooden door, its width exactly matches the width of the door leaf. When installed from inside the door, it corresponds to the frame clearance. Otherwise the door simply won't close.

Option 2. A frame of dry wooden beams with a cross-section of 20x30 is placed on the door leaf. Additional stiffening ribs are installed inside the frame, made from the same timber. The frame is treated with a primer. Polystyrene foam is placed inside the cells. Then it is covered with finishing material.

Note. The disadvantage of such insulation is that the thickness and weight of the door will increase. This in turn will create additional load on the hinges.

Insulating a wooden door with mineral wool

It can be done using either a frame method (like polystyrene foam) or frameless (stapled to the surface of the door leaf). In any case, a prerequisite for cotton wool is the use of a hydrobarrier film, which will protect the insulation from moisture.

Do-it-yourself door upholstery with dermantine

Let's briefly look at the technology of how to sheathe a door with dermantine. After the insulation is laid, it is covered with dermantine, which must be wrapped and secured around the perimeter of the door leaf with nails. The dermantine upholstery starts from the top of the door. During the installation process, you need to ensure that the insulation does not move to the side, and that the dermantine is stretched without distortion.

Note. This installation method, despite its obvious simplicity, has a drawback - the place where the dermantine is attached can tear, so rollers are often installed at the place where the dermantine is installed.

Door upholstery with dermantine with rollers

The cladding method involves the use of rollers to cover the place where the dermantine is attached and the gap between the door and the frame, so as not to blow.

It's easy to make rollers - you need to cut strips from the finishing material - 4 pcs. Strip sizes: width 50-200 mm, length equal to door height (2 pcs.) and width (2 pcs.)

Note. If the hinges are installed outside, the bolsters are installed only on the handle side.

The cut pieces of dermantine are attached around the perimeter of the door, and a seal is placed in them round shape(in this case, the width of the workpiece is 50-70 mm), or twisted insulation, or dermantin folded into a roller (then the workpiece reaches a size of 200 mm). Dermantin covers the insulation, is wrapped and fixed around the perimeter.

The use of rollers allows you to beautifully decorate the place where the dermantine is attached to the door leaf and additionally protects against the penetration of cold through the door gap.

How to cover a door with dermantine

Fastening dermantine for door upholstery is carried out using decorative nails.

You should pay attention to the places where the studs are installed, because... their use allows you to further decorate the door. Some methods of installing studs are shown in the photo below. Nails must be driven in strict accordance with the intended pattern. To do this, it is recommended to apply the ornament to the surface of the dermantine using a pencil or washable marker, and then erase it.

Dermantine door upholstery pattern - examples

A beautiful pattern is created by a dermantine ribbon stretched between the nails.

Hiring a specialist to insulate the door will cost a certain amount; approximate prices for the work are shown in the table:

In order for an insulated wooden door in a private house to fully fulfill its functions, you need to perform a few more steps, namely:

• insulate the door frame. To do this, dismantle the slope and inspect the installation site of the door frame. Assess the condition of the mounting foam that was used to insulate the junction of the box and the wall. If it is unsatisfactory, the foam is cut off and reapplied. A new slope is being formed, which it is advisable to insulate. It is convenient to use cotton wool or polystyrene foam as insulation.

• insulate the door frame. To do this, a polymer or foam seal is glued around the perimeter of the door frame.

Such comprehensive insulation will allow you to get a good result.

Simply by insulating a wooden entrance door in a private house, you can reduce heat leakage from the room by about 10%. To create a thermal insulation layer, different materials and technologies are used, but all of them are aimed at sealing the cracks around the doorway and reducing the thermal conductivity of the wooden panel. You can insulate a wooden door yourself, following the sequence of technological operations.

Since we are insulating the wooden entrance door with our own hands, we ourselves will have to take care of selecting the materials necessary for this purpose. Before starting work, you should inspect the frame and door leaf for any cracks. This can be done using a burning candle brought to the joints. wooden frame and walls, frames and panels, as well as panels, if the door panel is not made of plywood. In places where there are cracks, the tongue of fire will fluctuate due to the draft. It is necessary to place marks near the detected cracks.

The gap between the wall and wooden frame easy to fill with polyurethane foam. But the cracks in the canvas and at the junction of it with the box will have to be insulated differently. To make the work easier, it is better to remove the wooden sheet from its hinges and lay it on the floor. Old covering and upholstery, if any, must be removed, and handles and decorative overlays dismantle the locks and eyes

Measurements of height and width are taken from the canvas. The outer side is measured from edge to edge. The inner one must be measured taking into account the connection to the box: departing from the edges by 2-3 cm.

What is used for thermal insulation?

Traditional way Insulating a wooden entrance door involves upholstering its door leaf heat-insulating material. For this purpose use:

• mineral wool;
• batting;
• felt;
• padding polyester;
• Styrofoam;
• foam;
• foamed polyethylene or isolon with or without foil coating.

The insulating layer is covered with decorative upholstery. Most often, these are materials that create a barrier to the influence of precipitation on heat-insulating fillers. As upholstery you can use:

• leatherette;
• natural or vinyl leather;
• fabrics with water-repellent impregnation;
• When using polystyrene foam, moisture-resistant plywood or wooden lamellas such as lining can serve as upholstery.

Upholstery materials need to be purchased with a small reserve, since additional parts are made from them to insulate the joints of the box and the canvas, and the edge of the decorative material needs to be turned inward by 1-1.5 cm.

Special rollers

To seal the gap between the frame and the leaf, rollers made of the material with which the wooden door leaf will be upholstered (leatherette, leather, etc.) are used. They prevent wind from blowing through cracks and reduce the possibility of drafts. These parts are made independently in cases where the door is upholstered on the outer side, not adjacent to the frame. Inside the rollers on the wooden entrance door there should be insulation - this is thin foam rubber, isolon or other similar material.

The process of working with foam plastic

The installation of foam filler is used as a way to insulate the front door from the inside without disturbing its decorative effect. Most often this is done if the door leaf is framed and has decorative finishing, for which it was purchased. Manufacturers use corrugated cardboard as a filler - a material that has a low heat-protective function. During operation, it is necessary to replace the “filling” of such a door with a layer of foam or EPS insulation.

When performing this work, you need to dismantle the door, removing the upholstery material (plywood, fiberboard) from the canvas. The filler is removed from the cavities, leaving only the frame bars.

The foam should be cut into pieces that, as closely as possible, match the shape and size of the door cavities as closely as possible. Fasten with liquid nails or other foam adhesive. Polyurethane foam is necessary if there are gaps of more than 1-2 mm between the frame and the EPS. After installing the heat insulator inside the door, the trim panel is secured in place, and the panel is hung on the hinges.

Required Tools

To insulate wooden entrance doors with soft insulating materials, you need to prepare some tools:

• sharp knife or scissors for cutting parts;

• roulette;
• hammer;
• sealing tapes;
• nails with decorative heads.

If desired, you can also use thin fishing line to create a geometric pattern of diamonds on the upholstery material.

Eliminating gaps using a sealant

When choosing how to insulate a wooden entrance door, you should not ignore different types sealing elements, but to determine the best one, it is better to consult with the seller. Seals are specially designed products whose function is to maximally fill the gaps and crevices between door elements: by box and wooden sheet. In addition to thermal protection, insulation also plays a role in the house.

Installing a seal and sealing reduces the overall heat loss through a wooden door, solving the insulation issue by about 60%.

Types intended for wooden doors

For insulation of wooden entrance doors it is used different types door seals:

• tubular made of porous rubber;
• silicone;
• foam rubber.

There are options for attaching the seal: to the one applied by the manufacturer adhesive layer or using small nails with your own hands. When choosing sealing strips for a wooden door, it is worth considering performance characteristics and durability of the material. Best choice The seal is considered to be made of rubber.

Insulation of the box

Since wood has low thermal conductivity, insulating the frame of wooden entrance doors involves eliminating the gaps between the parts and near the walls with your own hands. A seal is installed around the perimeter of the door frame. It must be secured at the junction of the edge of the wooden panel of the door and the recess of the frame where it fits. Less commonly, a sealant is placed between the edge of a wooden panel and the frame: when opening and closing, the adhesive base of the tape is subjected to increased stress and the sealant can come off.

In addition to the gaps between the canvas and the frame, the joints between the frames and the walls are also subject to mandatory insulation. Thermal insulation is performed with tow, foam rubber or similar material, driving him into the gaps. If the gaps are large (more than 5 mm wide), then they can be properly plugged using polyurethane foam. To do this, place the end of the tube into the slot and, pressing the lever of the nozzle or gun, move the balloon from bottom to top along the box. The gap must be filled to ½ depth, since the foam expands greatly.

Upholstery fabric

At this stage, insulating a wooden entrance door with your own hands consists of several separate operations:

1. Materials are cut according to previously taken measurements of width and length. The insulation must be cut without allowance, and decorative upholstery if necessary, cut with an allowance for tucking the edges (1-1.5 cm). It is necessary to tuck the edge when the sealing rollers are not installed. This is what they do if they do it internal insulation wooden entrance group apartments with insulation and leather.
2. Installation of insulation consists of attaching it to a wooden door leaf. To do this, you can use glue, a construction stapler or wallpaper nails. The cut out rectangle needs to be aligned and attached to the canvas, leaving the edges of the material free for tucking the sheathing under them.
3. The leatherette part is placed on top of the insulation and smoothed. Upholstery material must be attached from the middle of the fabric. If you want to make a decor, then its design is marked out in advance, and when attaching the upholstery, a fishing line is pulled between the nails along the intended lines. The edges of the upholstery must be tucked under the insulation and nailed with decorative nails at even intervals along the entire perimeter.

Sealing with rollers

Door trim country house With outside must be completed by installing special rollers. To make them, you will need to cut 4 strips 10 cm wide. The length of 2 strips is equal to the width of the wooden panel with an allowance of 10 cm. The other 2 parts are cut according to the height measurement, not forgetting to leave the same allowance (10 cm).

It is necessary to cut strips from foam rubber or other filler, the length of which corresponds to the length of the leatherette parts, and the width is 2-3 cm less. You can insulate wooden entrance doors with rollers both before and after installing the paneling.

Installation

Place the previously prepared leatherette parts along the edge of the door: long strips in height and short strips in width. Laying is done inside out so that the edge of the strip is at a distance of 1-2 cm from the edge wooden base. Fastening can be done with staples of a construction stapler or small nails with an enlarged head (upholstery nails). The fastening pitch is 10-15 cm along the entire perimeter of the canvas.

For better thermal insulation of doors, a strip of insulating material should be laid on a nailed strip of leatherette, 1 cm away from the edge. Bend the roller lengthwise in half so that the insulation is inside the upholstery. Tuck in all free edges and secure the edge of the roller to the wooden panel with decorative nails.

The fastener also performs a finishing function. Nails can be driven in at random intervals and even close to each other, but you need to ensure that they are evenly placed. The installation is completed by fastening the previously removed fittings: you need to cut holes for the handles, and fasten the locking plates over the upholstery.

The front door is a kind of barrier between the street and the house. She protects us from uninvited guests and unnecessary noise. It can also serve as excellent thermal insulation. But this function may not be fully performed if the door is not insulated in a timely manner.

What is it for?

To make you feel warm and cozy at home on cold evenings, it is necessary to insulate your home for the winter. But it is not enough to replace windows with double-glazed windows and seal the walls. Still, the main heat loss occurs through the door. This is what needs to be insulated first. You just need to do this in advance, and not with the arrival of the first frosts.

Insulation of the door block is not only great way retain heat and protect from drafts, but also good noise insulation, as well as protection from condensation and foreign odors.

Necessary materials

The range of insulating materials is quite diverse. They all differ in density and durability. The following door insulation materials are currently used:

• Cardboard- most cheap material. Has low thermal insulation property. And even its euphonious name “corrugated cardboard” does not save it, although the folded structure should be ideal for this;
• Foam rubber- a pioneer among insulation materials. Flexible, holds its shape well and resists stress. He is easy to work with. The only negative is that it absorbs moisture, gets wet and decomposes, which is why it is considered a short-lived material;
• Izolon- an analogue of the previous substance, but has higher water-repellent properties. Exists a large number of species differing in thickness and density. You should pay attention to its appearance, covered with foil. It has high thermal insulation, durable and elastic;
• Styrofoam– good option for insulating the door leaf. It has good sound insulation and retains heat well. It is easy to use - no specialized assistance is required for its installation, everything can be done with your own hands. In addition, it will please you with its price. The disadvantage is its rapid flammability and release of toxins during combustion;

• Wool can be mineral and basalt. This is the most environmentally friendly material, but, unfortunately, not the most suitable for insulating doors. Cotton wool has increased hygroscopicity, that is, it quickly absorbs water, gets wet and clumps, and because of this loses its properties. If you nevertheless decide to use this particular material as insulation, you need to make protection for it from polyethylene film. It will provide air permeability, but will retain water and steam;
• Rubber gaskets used as a sealant for cracks with a diameter of up to 12 mm. They are resistant to high and low (down to -40°) temperatures;
• Dermantin used as decoration, which is applied on top of the insulation;
• Batting – natural material. Eco-friendly, does not cause allergies, airy in structure. It evaporates moisture well and has air permeability. By insulating the door with batting, you will provide yourself with heat and sound insulation.

As you can see, there are really many options for insulating the door leaf. But don't get lost. By classifying them according to several criteria, you will immediately eliminate most of them and the question will not arise which one is better to use.

To begin, decide on pricing policy: is a more expensive material suitable for you or is it your priority to insulate your home on a budget. Place of residence also plays an important role: apartment or a private house. If you live in an apartment, then between your home and the street there is, so to speak, dead space - the entrance. He is the first to bear the blow of frost and wind. At the same time, a “weakened” version of the cold enters the apartment. Consequently, it is possible to use simpler material here, and therefore cheaper. Living in a private or rural house, you are left alone with the weather conditions. Therefore, it’s worthwhile to insulate more reliably, not forgetting about the attic.

Still, the type of door plays a decisive role in the choice of insulating fiber. Most often, a metal door is used as an entrance door. Almost all of the above materials are suitable for its insulation. But Special attention worth paying attention to a product such as polyurethane foam or polyurethane foam. This is a synthetic product that has good thermal insulation, fire resistance, and is easy to use. It is important to note that the foam is produced in liquid form, so it fills the entire surface, including hard-to-reach places.

To enhance the thermal insulation of a wooden door, foam rubber, isolon, polystyrene foam, batting, and mineral wool are used. Heat-reflecting materials based on foamed polyethylene with foil are especially suitable for this purpose. It is capable of retaining up to 70% of lost heat.

If you are looking for a way to insulate plastic door, first you need to understand the reason for the passage of cold:

• perhaps the mechanism has become loose, then it is enough to simply adjust it;
• if the cold comes from under the bottom of the door, this is a flaw of the installers. To fix this problem, lay polystyrene foam underneath and fill it with polyurethane foam;
• For insulation of the entire canvas, foam rubber, mineral wool, and expanded polystyrene are suitable.

Methods used

Before providing heat protection to your door, determine its weakest point in this regard. This may be insufficient tightness or insufficient density of the canvas itself. Based on this, use one of the methods of thermal insulation of the door.

Along the perimeter of the opening

A sealant is used for this. This tape material, which is glued to the base using a sealant or adhesive layer. Sealing material is used as a means for sealing cracks in the door frame.

There are several types of it:

• those based on foam rubber are the least durable. They are enough for one season;
• rubber ones are glued to the rubber layer. Enough reliable material;
• rubber reinforced with fiberglass. There is a variety of colors of this material. It is elastic and frost-resistant;
• polyvinyl chloride withstands both high and low temperatures. Happens different shapes depending on the width of the gap. To install PVC tape in a doorway, you need to make a groove in it and push the seal into it with a screwdriver.

It should be noted that the more elastic the seal, the more tightly it will fill the space and ensure that the door is airtight. Before purchasing a seal, measure the doorway around the perimeter, going from corner to corner. Don't forget to take into account the width of the slots and the rebate. To find out its required width, you need to take plasticine, put it in a bag and place it in one of the cracks that need to be sealed. After that, close the door. The entire configuration of the gap will be imprinted on the plasticine and it will become clear what width the seal should be chosen.

Now let's figure out how to properly stick the tape:

• If you are using a self-adhesive product, be sure to degrease the door frame before work. After that, remove protective film from the adhesive layer and apply sealant, starting from the bottom;
• non-adhesive material should be applied using silicone or liquid nails.

Upholstery

Another method for thermal insulation street door– insulation of the door leaf itself. This is especially true for metal doors, since they are capable of forming cold bridges through which air penetrates into the apartment.

To insulate a metal door leaf you must:

1. Remove the door from its hinges, free it from the lock and handles.
2. If it consists of 2 sheets, separate them.
3. Lay insulation between the sheets. Fill the cracks with foam.
4. Fasten the canvas.
5. Put the door back.

If the door is wooden or metal, but not dismountable, the insulation is fixed on top of the door leaf.

This is done this way:

1. Remove the door and free it from removable parts.
2. Next, you need to decide on which side to attach the insulating material - from the outside or from the inside. This depends on the location of the hinges and the method of opening the door block.
3. The heat-insulating material is secured with a furniture stapler every 15 cm.
4. You can use another method. Nail to the door leaf along the edges wooden slats, lay foam plastic between them. The top of this structure is covered with plastic or fiberboard.
5. Let's move on to decoration. To do this, the door leaf is covered with upholstery material using decorative nails. The upholstery can be made of leather, vinyl leather, plastic - foam, bologna. You can also cover the front door with leatherette. The upholstery is fixed starting from upper corners. Stretch so that no waves form. You need to leave 5 cm for the hem over the entire area.

For thresholds

The threshold is an important component of the front door. It can be made from various materials: wood, metal, plastic, concrete. In addition to sound-absorbing and supporting functions, the threshold lip also provides condensation relief and thermal insulation and closes gaps in the lower part of the door block. That’s why it’s so important to insulate it for the winter too.

To ensure its thermal tightness, you can resort to several methods:

1. Plastic can be insulated using a sealant such as polyurethane foam. To do this, remove it and clear it of debris. installation seam and filled with several layers of foam. After this, the threshold is returned to its place.
2. Another option is a thermal damper. Here you will also need to dismantle the threshold. Then in its place they lay heating cable. Between its loops there is a thermal sensor that reads information about its temperature. A thermostat is located outside, which turns the mechanism off and on. At the end of the work, do not forget to return the threshold to its place.

Installation of the second canvas

This is a very reliable method of maintaining heat in an apartment. An air cushion is formed between the two doors, which resists the penetration of cold air from the street. You can install additional canvas in several ways:

1. On the frame of the first door. This option is good if you install both doors at the same time or if both sheets are made of the same materials. Thanks to this technique, the work of insulating the doorway is easier, reliability is increased and installation time is saved.
2. Apart. It is used if it is necessary to add a leaf to an existing one or the doors are made of different materials. In order to install a second entrance door in this way, it is necessary to assemble a box, hang a canvas on it and insert this structure into the doorway level and seal it. Required condition– door canvases must be the same size.

There are a number of rules by which input and interior doors. When installing them in accordance with GOST, there are many options for how to seal the gap, which must be present. The gap ensures unhindered opening and closing of the canvas, even if it swells or is slightly distorted.

Clearance standards for standard door

Rules for installing a door with a gap

The ease of use of the door structure depends on whether the gaps are formed correctly and the door is installed. If there is an increase in humidity, a wooden door will likely expand, which will make it difficult to open and close.

Note! Too much big gap, especially if it concerns the front door, does not guarantee reliableherlocking in the closed position.

There are clear standards according to which the gaps between the frame and the door leaf should be formed. Moreover, everything depends on the size of the door, that is, the height, width and weight of the door are taken into account. In this case, some errors are allowed, for example, if in terms of dimensions the distance between the jamb and the canvas should be 5 mm, then 4-6 mm is considered the norm.

Standard door kit

If there is a standard door set with dimensions of 200x60x90 cm, then the gap should be 3-4mm on all sides. It is allowed to form a lumen of up to 5 mm if:

• in room high humidity and ventilation is needed;
• the doors are made of a material that absorbs moisture very well.

It is worth paying attention to the distance from the threshold to the canvas. At normal conditions it is 2-2.5 cm. If you need to ensure improved ventilation and unhindered opening, then the distance can be increased to 4 cm.

Door seal

Rules for forming gaps

In order to avoid the problem of closing too large or developing small gaps, the door must initially be installed correctly. To do this, you need to wait a few simple rules during installation:

1. When installing the box, you need to leave 1-2 cm for the initial gaps, because during the hardening process the foam swells and puts pressure on the box. During this process, it is impossible to create the correct gaps.
2. When the foam has already dried and completely hardened, you can begin to form the gaps. To do this, on the sides and top between the canvas and the box, you need to place a material that has required thickness. When standard size boxes and canvases are 3-4 mm. The best thing in this case is the packaging cardboard from under the door kit. It is just that thick.
3. To prevent the box from moving in the opening, it should be wedged.
4. Check door balancing. You can use a building level for this. Despite its weight, the canvas should “sit” firmly on the wedges. Wherein Basic structure V open form should not move.

As a result, after removing the wedges and spacers, door design must maintain an even geometry, and the gaps must remain in the dimensions that were planned when they were formed.

An option on how to remove a draft

The gap is wrong, what should I do?

Situations where the gap is very small or large are common. In the first case, it is necessary to reduce the door leaf, in the second - insulation (closing) of the gap.

The first step is to check whether the box is warped; for this you should use building level. Must be observed:

1. Diagonals - the distance between opposite corners is equal.
2. Angles - all should be 90 degrees.

If the gap is too small, you can carry out the following manipulations:

• Remove paint, especially on painted wooden doors that are many years old. Layering paint over time greatly reduces the gap.
• If there is no paint, then use hand plane trim the contours until a normal gap is formed.

If the gaps are very large (for a standard sheet - more than 6 mm), steps are needed to insulate and close the gap. This is especially important if the door is an entrance door, because having too much distance between the frame and the door leaf leads to:

• Deterioration protective qualities. Such a door can be easier to break into, and therefore enter the room.
• The cold creeps in during the winter months.
• Sound permeability improves, which does not contribute to comfort.

Note! If the door set (frame and leaf) have certificates, in accordance with state standards, there should be no problems with gaps for the front door. The question of how to seal the gap will not arise.

Multi-chamber sealing tape

We insulate the gap

There are many options for how to close the gap between the door and the frame. Before insulating the canvas, you need to decide how much to reduce the gap.

Through the cracks, which are mandatory, it often blows, they do not provide sound insulation. In addition, the seal eliminates door slamming. When choosing a sealing material, it is worth starting not so much from aesthetics and ease of installation, but from insulating qualities.

Materials for sealing cracks:

• Sealing (heat insulating) strip.
• Silicone mass.
• Other options.

Each method is used depending on where the door is installed and the size of the gap.

Sealing tapes (self-adhesive)

The bands can be rubber or plastic. Regardless of the material, they are inexpensive and easy to install. It is easiest to work with self-adhesive strips. On one side they have an adhesive layer, which, provided the surface for gluing is prepared, adheres tightly.

Double sealing “self-adhesive”

There are tapes of different thickness and width. They can close gaps different sizes. Their only drawback is that they need to be replaced over time, especially if the door is constantly closed. In this case, the tape is compressed and reduced in size - this impairs its functionality.

1. Clean the installation site from dust and degrease.
2. Measure the required length of the tape, cut it with a small margin (up to 1 cm).
3. Separate the protective film by 5-10 cm.
4. Apply the tape to the door frame, it is best to start from the top from the corner.
5. As you gluing, remove the protective paper.
6. Press the tape tightly during installation.

In places where hinges are mounted, it is necessary to glue it to the front surface of the stopper or to the inner surface of the canvas. In the corners, the joints of the tape should be clearly trimmed.

Strips without self-adhesive

Their qualities are the same as the first type, the only thing they do not have is a self-adhesive layer. This makes them somewhat cheaper, and these options also have a different installation method.

Tape installation sequence:

1. Clean the door frame from dust.
2. Measure the required length of the tape.
3. Close the door, in this position, place the tape on the jamb so that it fits tightly to it, even resting against the door.
4. Nail to the jamb using short nails.

Thus door frame breaks completely. The distance between nails is no more than 10 cm.

Insulation without self-adhesive

Silicone paste

Or simpler - construction silicone. It is sold in small tubes, clear or white. To apply the composition you need a special gun, which can be found at a hardware store. The process of how to seal cracks with silicone:

• To prevent contamination of the door surface, you must first coat the areas where work will not be carried out with Vaseline.
• Insert the tube into the gun.
• Trim the tip so that the thickness of the silicone strip when extruded is slightly greater than needed to seal the gap.
• The gun should be held at a 45 degree angle to the jamb.
• Gently pressing the gun lever will begin to push the silicone out of the tube.
• The movement of the gun should be smooth so as not to squeeze out excess.
• After completing the treatment of all surfaces, close the door and wait until the silicone dries. The specific drying time is indicated on the tube with the material.
• After the time has passed, open the door and remove excess silicone.

Sealing joints in this way is convenient, because the silicone will take the shape it needs.

Other methods

Among them:

1. Stuffing wooden glazing beads (thin slats) in places where there are cracks.
2. Stuffing strips of felt or other dense fabric.
3. The threshold can be insulated by stuffing a strip of soft rubber, special silicone curtains or “brushes” along the lower edge of the door leaf. The latter option will not only provide thermal insulation, but also maintain ventilation in the room.

Conclusion

Methods for insulating and closing gaps between the frame and the door leaf depend on the size of the gap, financial capabilities and type of door material. You can implement any insulation with your own hands, without much physical effort.

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Ksenia 09/10/2017 11:10

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