How to properly assemble a house from timber. Assembling a house from profiled timber: video, do it yourself

Forgotten traditions of ancestors

The main mistake during construction wooden houses is an almost universal disdain for the centuries-old experience of wooden house construction in Russia. Where did those teams of carpenters who built five-wall huts go for centuries?

There is none of them. The culture of building houses from timber has also been completely forgotten. What kind of chamfers and joints on dowels can one talk about when houses are roughly assembled from molded timber assembled with nails!

Analyzing modern practice wooden house construction, you are faced with ignorance of the features of building this type of house or unjustified haste. Builders often tell developers that SNiP for wooden houses does not exist in nature. This is a mistake or deliberate deceit - SNiP exists, and they must be observed both during design and construction wooden house.

But all is not lost. In this sea of ​​unprofessionalism, small construction companies operate, which, sometimes to the detriment of their own profits, are trying to revive the centuries-old culture of building wooden houses. In this situation wooden house, built according to the rules of the art of construction and taking into account traditions, actually becomes an exclusive product.

To determine the quality of construction of any wooden house, a thorough inspection is required. Construction errors can be divided into three main types:

1. Mistakes when designing a house and preparing for construction.

2. Errors during the installation process.

3. Errors during operation (in the first 2-3 years after assembly, during the first heating season and subsequent maintenance of the structure).

When designing, manufacturing and building wooden houses, it is necessary to take into account the uneven shrinkage of wood in different directions.

Choosing a location. When choosing a place for a house, it is necessary to take into account that wooden houses are classified as completely combustible, so the distance between neighboring wooden buildings should be at least 15 m. (In practice, during strong winds, fires often occur in houses that are located at a greater distance from each other.)

Marking the house and deviation from the design axes. Upon delivery ready-made kit wooden house parts from the factory to construction site Often there is a discrepancy between the dimensions of the kit and the dimensions of the laid foundation. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to carefully check the geometric dimensions of the foundations with project documentation, which is submitted to the manufacturing plant of the house structures.

Quality of foundations. Particular care should be taken to check the planes of the foundations on which the walls of the house will be installed. In accordance with the requirements of SNiP, the deviation from the plane over the entire area of ​​the foundation should not exceed 20 mm.

Irregularities and sagging mortar prevent wooden structures from fully resting on the foundation. Cracks, releases of pieces of reinforcement, protruding nails, deviations from the vertical of the walls are unacceptable. An inclined plane of foundation soles on slopes is not allowed.

Underground ventilation and waterproofing. For houses with wooden floor structures, floor insulation and organization are mandatory. effective ventilation underground through vents. Vents should be installed at least on each side of each room - the more there are, the better - the number of “dead”, unventilated areas is reduced. Vents should be located above the snow level.

Silicate and hollow brick, porous concrete blocks. To protect wooden structures from the capillary rise of moisture from the foundations, a device is needed for all types of wooden houses horizontal waterproofing. Practice shows that for these purposes it is best to use roofing felt laid in two layers. You can often observe how hydroglass insulation, used as waterproofing instead of ordinary roofing felt, is destroyed instantly, literally within a few months.

Backing board. A necessary and practical element log house- backing board. It not only serves for additional horizontal waterproofing of the crowns, but will make it easier to replace in the future lower crown Houses. As practice shows, it is best to make a backing board from larch or pine. It is also possible to use boards made of deciduous wood for these purposes - aspen, birch (although SNiP does not recommend this).

If the house is not supported well enough on birch or aspen boards, the board becomes deformed along its length, but this disadvantage is compensated by better additional waterproofing of the house as a whole. Good decision– a backing board with an external chamfer, to which a galvanized ebb is subsequently attached. High-quality support of the house along the entire plane. When installing a house from rounded logs, it is important to ensure that the first (backing) crown is tightly supported on the backing board. Since rounding and profiled beams are factory-made molded products, they are supplied to sites with a bottom profiled groove.

As a result, half of the walls of a wooden house rest on the edges of the groove of a rounded log or the edges of the lamellas of a profiled beam, which significantly reduces the durability of the wooden house.Wood protection. One of the main conditions for the durability of any wooden house is careful wood processing protective compounds. Failure to treat wood with protective compounds can lead not only to the development of fungi or bacteria, but also to the appearance of internal stresses, which ultimately cause deformation of the structures. Often, the house is first assembled and only then the structures are treated with protective compounds.

As a result, areas appear that are inaccessible or difficult to reach. Almost always problem area is an oval groove in houses made of rounded logs, which is covered by an overlying crown. Control of wood moisture. When manufacturing wooden structures, builders often neglect to control the moisture content of workpieces (logs, beams, boards and individual parts), which leads to a loss of their quality. All products made from or based on wood are always hygroscopic; they have an internal moisture gradient.

Before installing structures, you should check their geometric dimensions and reject elements that deviate from the design dimensions. Splicing along the length. When examining the walls of wooden houses, the so-called joints along the length immediately catch the eye. With proper design, joints along the length of the logs are tried to be made in cuts, that is, where they are overlapped by transverse walls, partitions or decorative elements. In this case, the joints along the length on the plane log wall are missing.

Often the appearance of joints along the length is dictated by an unsuccessful design decision, when the length of the walls exceeds the length of the supplied logs, and they have to be extended. When splicing logs along the length, it is necessary to be guided by the requirements of GOST (who cares!). Additionally, when connecting the crowns along the length, hammer into the joint from above U-shaped bracket so that the crowns do not diverge along the length. Sometimes a connecting plate is installed. About poles and jacks. A separate word about poles and jacks.

For some unknown reason, jacks are now installed everywhere at the top of posts. This complicates access to the jacks during operation. In the old days, when there were no metal jacks, builders avoided poles from vertically installed logs, but made them from short logs with cross cuts - such poles shrink along with the house. Similar constructive solution and today it should be considered the most reliable.

If, nevertheless, a decision is made to use jacks, it is necessary to carefully approach the issue of their selection, and also during the operation of the house, monitor their condition, prevent corrosion, deformation, regularly check the settlement of the house, if necessary, loosen the tightening of the nut. It is necessary to avoid direct contact of metal structures with wood. To isolate them from each other, it is recommended to use roofing felt gaskets. This also applies to the installation of jacks.

Cutting beams. Another important issue is cutting beams into walls. An erroneous interpretation of the concept of “half a tree” leads to the fact that the cutting of beams into walls is almost universally done with an L-shaped undercut.

A crack with such a cut is guaranteed! In accordance with SNiP 11-25-80 “Wooden structures”, the cutting depth should be no more than 1/4 of the thickness in intermediate nodes of through structures and no more than 1/3 of the thickness in other cases, while the depth of cutting in the beams should be not less than 2 cm, and in round timber - not less than 3 cm Arrangement of openings. The most common mistake when installing window and doorways in houses made of rounded logs – rigid mount casing to the walls and the absence of the required five percent height gap between the casing and the walls. The results of such a rigid installation are cracked glass windows, doors that won’t open, skewed interior walls.Roof installation.

Failure of builders to understand the specifics of how structures work leads to dire consequences, usually to a complete overhaul of the roof. The use of sliding supports when constructing layered rafters - required condition for a wooden house made of rounded logs or timber. When installing a rafter system, all elements must be additionally treated with long-lasting fire retardants. The most important thing is the arrangement of the sheathing.

The sheathing should not create obstacles to the free ventilation of the insulation along the entire plane of the under-roof space. Fasteners. To fasten crowns, we do not recommend using dowels made from nails and reinforcement rods. Steel dowels have an unpleasant feature: when fastening the crowns of houses vertically, the crowns “hang” during rough driving. The most correct solution is to use wooden dowels with a square section.

The pins should be easy to drive in without significant effort. When assembling houses from rounded logs and profiled beams, dowels play a secondary role - they right choice can become decisive during the operation of the house. Thermal insulation. If there are cracks in the house between the crowns, moisture always gets into them and insects infest. In addition, cracks increase the possibility of moisture entering and exiting the wood of structures, which ultimately leads to uneven shrinkage of the structure.

Application as inter-crown insulation mineral wool– this is nonsense. Moss burns like gunpowder. Most acceptable interventional insulation in modern wooden housing construction is jute. Today, sealants are being used to seal gaps, cracks and cracks, but we should not forget that sealant is not insulation.

For roof insulation and attic floors It is recommended to use mineral wool insulation. The use of foam plastics is extremely undesirable due to their flammability. The thickness of any insulation on the roof and attic must comply with the thermal requirements for the corresponding region (in Central Russia - at least 200 mm). Errors during the construction of a wooden house lead to a significant reduction in its durability, and in especially severe cases - to the need for its complete dismantling and reassembly with replacement of most of the timber structures.

Therefore, in conclusion, good advice to the developer: before the start of construction, it is necessary to carefully consider and analyze the project, constantly monitor the installation of the house, require the preparation of acceptance certificates for hidden work for each stage of construction, starting from earthworks and ending with finishing. Construction technologies 3 (58) 2008 One of the most popular services in the construction market today is the assembly of a log house. This technology is used to build not only private houses, but also bathhouses, as well as utility buildings. They turn out warm and attractive in appearance. If you want to make the walls warmer, you can install a ventilated façade.

But some people prefer to leave the walls in their original form. This way they look very beautiful and correspond to old Russian traditions. If you have the appropriate skills, you can assemble a house from profiled timber with your own hands. However, first you need to familiarize yourself with the technology.

When assembling a house, you must remember about its shrinkage. This rule is especially true if the construction is carried out using the technology of installing natural humidity units. Shrinkage will be approximately 15 cm if a material of natural moisture is used. The dried log house shrinks to about 9 cm. The assembly is divided into several stages.

At the first stage, a project is drawn up, then the foundation is built. The main stage is the assembly of the log house. Final works manipulations on the construction of the roof become. After shrinkage, external and internal work is carried out.

The most important first crown

The technology for assembling a house from profiled timber involves paying attention to special attention the first crown. It represents one of the vulnerable points. This node will form the outline of the house.

It is located closer to the surface of the earth and is in contact with the foundation, which draws water from the ground into the water. The first crown is shielded; this work involves separating it from the foundation with a layer of waterproofing. This is usually roofing material laid on a layer of bitumen mastic. On top is a lining 100- mm timber, that is exactly its thickness. As for the width, it should not be less than the corresponding value of the profiled beam. The latter will become an intermediate link between the foundation and the wall material. The lining beam should be made of larch, which is characterized by high resistance to rotting.

In this case, the material must be treated with an antiseptic. When the kit for assembling a house from profiled timber is delivered to the construction site, you can begin work. After erecting the foundation and laying the first crown, you can begin installing the lower crown, which is a beam with one profiled side. The horizontal plane must be coated with an antiseptic, and after the mixture has dried, a layer of jute sealant is placed on top.

Its thickness should be 5 mm. The floor beams must be embedded into the first crown. But it is better to lay them in such a way that they rest on the foundation grillage. If the lower crown rots, there will be fewer problems with replacing it. It is better to make the first two crowns from larch.

The need to process timber

Work on assembling houses from profiled timber is necessarily accompanied by treating the material with antiseptics.

At the same time, you must take into account that after construction you will only have the opportunity to process accessible sections of the walls. Before laying the profiled timber, it is necessary to protect the remaining surfaces. This must be done before assembling the house. Antiseptic compounds can be “Senezh” and “Tikurilla”.

Carrying out insulation

After studying the instructions for assembling a house from profiled timber, you will learn that compaction is a mandatory step.

Ideally, it is better to use jute, which is laid in corner joints - the most vulnerable places. Some types of profiles like the Finnish one involve laying a jute tape along the beam, in its central part. The main function of the jute seal is to reduce the air flow through the walls. To achieve the result, a layer of 5 mm will be enough.

Using dowels as a connection

Self-assembly of a house from profiled timber is accompanied by the use of dowels. They are spikes and pins for fastening structural elements. The products are oblong in shape and have a round or square section.

The base can be: plastic; metal; wood. If the walls are assembled from profiled timber, then wooden dowels are better than others. This fastening is used when the moisture content of the timber is more than 20%. This is done so that when the material dries, it does not deform and cracks do not form between the rims. The dowel will work on bending and will not allow the beam to bend.

If you decide to use dowels as fasteners, you can use some tips that will simplify the work. No more than two beams should be connected to each other.

The pins are arranged in a checkerboard pattern. The step between them should not be more than 1,500 mm. The dowels should have approximately the same moisture content as the timber. Holes for installing fasteners are drilled vertically at 1.5 beams. The hole diameter can be larger diameter fasteners 1 mm.

It is better if this parameter is the same. The dowel is hammered in with a mallet and recessed into the timber. When assembling a house from profiled timber, you should choose dowels whose length will be 30 mm less than the length of the hole. This requirement is due to shrinkage compensation.

Assembly nuances: instructions for work

By purchasing a ready-made kit for assembling a house, you can install it yourself. Each link will be in its place, and glass slots are made in the products. The work must be carried out according to the principle of assembling a classic log structure.

Each link is marked, and during installation you must follow the diagram. During the process, you must take into account the grooves and tenons of each part. When laying with the profile, each edge must coincide. If the grooves and tenons are not very complex, then sealing material is laid between the links. This increases thermal insulation characteristics walls. When assembling a house from profiled timber, it is important to ensure that the links are tightly connected to each other.

If this rule is not followed, the walls will rot. If there are products with tongues and grooves in the form of a comb, there is no need to lay insulation. The beams will have bowl cuts that connect the links to each other into an even masonry. If there are no bowls, you can cut them out using a mobile bowl cutter.

Completion of construction

After shrinkage, you can begin roughing and finishing, as well as the construction of the roof. At the same stage, they install entrance doors and windows.

The subfloor is being installed. If the walls have a thickness of 195 mm or more, then they do not need additional insulation and cladding. They will retain heat perfectly.

Whereas protective impregnation must be applied.

This will keep the wood in excellent condition. long years. If you wish, you can purchase a composition that will perform two functions at once - protective and decorative. With this mixture you can emphasize the structure of the wood and give it a rich shade.

Features of insulation

After assembling a house from profiled timber, you can also insulate it. This process usually involves:

    tow; glass wool slabs; mineral wool; flax-jute cloth.

Glass wool is laid with a foil vapor barrier layer. This will help reflect heat indoors. The presence of vapor insulation will reduce the evaporation of moisture, which steals heat.

It is better not to use polystyrene foam as thermal insulation, as it will prevent the evaporation of moisture from the wood, which will ultimately cause it to rot. For the same reasons, it is not worth insulating walls with roofing felt, as well as with glassine, as well as plastic film. It is better to use a vapor-permeable membrane material.

Finally

Assembling a house from profiled timber can be a fairly simple task if you order a ready-made kit. In it, all elements of the system are numbered.

You will have to install the walls, guided by the Lego principle. If you want to achieve additional thermal insulation, the surface of the walls from the inside can also be finished. For this, plasterboard, hardboard or lining is usually used.

When installing a roof for such housing, it is better to use corrugated sheeting or ondulin. Metal tiles are excellent. Insulation in this case begins from the attic floor. Then the craftsmen move on to the roof.

Those who own suburban areas or dachas, they always dream of building a cozy and comfortable house made of wood. It should be noted that the technology for building a house from timber is quite simple and uncomplicated. All that is needed to build a house from timber is minimal experience working with carpentry tools and a chainsaw, and, of course, a little hard work.

Timber as a building material is very convenient to use, environmentally friendly, and does not leave unnecessary construction waste. In addition, the technology for building a house from timber does not require any special professional skills, which undoubtedly facilitates both the construction process and the time it takes to build a house.

Material selection

Of course, any construction begins first of all with the choice required material to ensure that the building is reliable and durable. When choosing a building material for building a house, it is necessary to take into account several factors: the quality of the material, density and reliability from various weather conditions, sound insulation, affordability and durability. For all the above factors, timber is perfect.

There are two types of timber: solid and profiled. In a profiled beam, a profile is specified, which can be with tenons or crown grooves. In other words, this type of timber is already pre-made with all the necessary additions, so you just need to bring the material to the site and assemble the house in detail.

This type of timber has many advantages, such as convenience and ease of use, resistance to deformation, and no need to grind and process the timber. But despite this, it also has a number of disadvantages: firstly, unnecessary costs for impregnation with special waterproof agents; secondly, further redevelopment or dismantling of the house is impossible; thirdly, the need for insulation in winter.

Another type is solid timber. This type of timber is no different from its predecessor in beauty, convenience and ease of use, but has great advantages in other ways: low cost on the market, the material is widespread in all places where wood is sold, due to its natural moisture, the material shrinks and becomes dense and solid . However, as elsewhere, there are also disadvantages: firstly, these are the costs of processing it, and secondly, due to its humidity, there is a possibility of fungus occurring (and therefore it is necessary to process the material in advance), the occurrence of small cracks with sudden temperature changes.

All photos from the article

Construction technology timber houses, as well as houses made of round timber, has a number of features related to the specific building material. For example, in the project it is necessary to take into account the significant shrinkage of the house; also, a lot depends on whether the house from beams was assembled correctly. Given the many nuances, this issue is worth considering in more detail.

General stages of log house construction

Assembling wooden houses from timber is only one of the stages of building a house; in addition, the construction technology includes such stages as:

  • construction of the foundation - there is no point in considering this stage in detail, it is only worth noting that a strip one is suitable for a 2-story house reinforced foundation, and for one-story buildings, a columnar one or an option with a grillage may be sufficient;

  • Next comes the direct assembly of the timber from the log house, the masonry along the crowns is carried out, and here the execution of the work may differ in detail. Some prefer to use dowels for greater strength and rigidity of the walls, others use profiled timber without dowels. This stage is discussed in more detail below;

Note! Profiled solid timber usually undergoes kiln drying, so it is ideal for building a house. Its cost can be considered a small disadvantage, but the increased price is justified - after all, the buyer receives timber with minimal moisture, which reduces the shrinkage period and the likelihood of wood cracking.

  • then the roof is built and the house is allowed to stand. The time it takes for a house to “sit” varies greatly depending on the construction conditions, the type of wood, the type of lumber and even the time of its harvesting;
  • final interior decoration at home, the installation of windows and doors can be done after the house has completely settled. In order to at least roughly navigate the timing, you can use a moisture meter; the average moisture content of the timber should not be higher than 20-25%.

Note! If deadlines are running out, then laminated veneer lumber can save the situation. Assembling a house from laminated veneer lumber does not require the house to stand for a long time; this is not necessary since the timber itself is glued together from several previously well-dried boards.

Read more about building a house

Assembling a house from logs or beams is quite painstaking work, so it’s better not to rush. Negligence at this stage may result in serious troubles in the future that cannot be eliminated 100%.

Walling

For additional protection of the log house, the bottom frame beams are first laid on the foundation; their cross-section is slightly larger than the thickness of the future wall. And if the foundation is columnar, then the assembly of a log house from timber involves the use of a double bottom frame. This is necessary because the beams will bend, so their height needs to be increased.

Note! Before laying the bottom trim, a layer of waterproofing must be applied to the surface of the foundation (coating waterproofing can be used).

After this, you can proceed to laying the crowns; until one crown is laid, you cannot begin laying the second. If a regular solid beam is used for construction, then it can be recommended to use dowels every 3-4 beams with a step between them of 2-3 m. Dowels can be either wooden or metal and significantly increase the rigidity of the wall, the risk that the wall will move when it dries is significantly reduced.

Basically, the assembly timber house can be carried out without additional joining of beams in a vertical plane. This is quite acceptable when using profiled dried timber; in this case, selected grooves on the surface of the lumber are sufficient.

But usually dowels are not neglected - they do not greatly affect the final cost, and increasing reliability will definitely not be superfluous. Moreover, quite often preference is given to wooden dowels; metal ones are not very suitable for these purposes since condensation can form on their surface, and this is fraught with rotting of the wood.

Also great importance has the type of timber, or rather the profile of its surface.

The following options are possible:

  • German profile(comb), characterized by a large number of small teeth. In this case, assembling profiled timber with your own hands does not require laying insulation between them;

The use of this method of combining beams is difficult to consider appropriate in our time:

  • the risk of timber rotting from the inside increases (due to condensation on the metal);
  • the cost of such studs is high (can reach up to 400 rubles/m), since the ties are installed in increments of 1.5-2.0 m to a depth of 30-40 cm, then in total such a purchase will not be cheap;
  • Some people call shrinkage adjustment one of the advantages of this method, but this does not correspond to reality. The only thing that can be achieved is that the beams will not move when dry.

There is an opinion among professionals that the trend of using studs for screeds dates back to the times when the assembly of laminated veneer lumber was just being mastered. It was necessary to minimize the warping of the timber in any way, and the screed solved this issue. In principle, the Finns also use something similar, but there metal ties are used only on outlets, this is justified.

At all budget option It is also possible to assemble timber on nails, but this is not the best option, its only advantage can be considered to be its low cost.

Floor arrangement

After the walls are erected, you can start laying out the floor of the first floor and interfloor ceilings.

The instructions for installing the floor of the first floor will look like this:

  • the beams will be attached to the bottom trim beam. If a double beam is used, then in the top beam you can simply make cuts up to 5 cm deep and thus firmly secure the ends of the floor beams. In the case of single beams, steel brackets can be used to support the ends of the beams on them;

  • then small bars are attached to the bottom of the beams to create support for the subfloor. The subfloor is laid on them;
  • then follows a layer of insulation, on top of which is a vapor barrier membrane;
  • Only after this can the finished floor boards be laid on the ceiling.

The design of interfloor ceilings can be simplified and dispensed with without a heat-insulating layer. In this case, the floor beams can be left as an element of the interior; this will only decorate the room.

Finished timber houses

If cost does not matter, then you can order a ready-made log house. That is, the question of how a house made of timber is assembled will not have to be decided; specialists will first assemble it in their own production, then disassemble it, deliver it to the construction site and reassemble it. After this, you can proceed to finishing.

At the same time, the process itself is a bit like a construction set - all the parts are already perfectly sized and marked with numbers. So all that remains is to arrange them in accordance with the project.

The same scheme can be used to assemble a bathhouse from timber. Although, a bathhouse is not such a large-scale structure, so you can try to build it yourself. To make the work easier, you can use regular dried timber and nails instead of dowels to join the beams together.

Environmental friendliness and high quality characteristics inherent in wooden house construction. Our grandfathers assembled entire towers from round timber, the beauty of which still inspires admiration. And thanks to modern antiseptics and neomid wooden frame not afraid of fires and fungus. When installing on your own, it is easier to use timber of the correct shape. How to make a log house from timber with your own hands, the main stages of installation, rules and recommendations of specialists can be found in this article.

Designing your home

Before assembling a house from timber, you need to choose the right project. Log houses are assembled according to standard or individual projects, may differ in architectural complexity or have simple forms. If you plan to assemble a ready-made factory log house, we recommend choosing a standard project, which has advantages:

  1. The log house has already been tested in operation, and the manufacturer has eliminated the main shortcomings.
  2. The manufacturing material is used as economically as possible, so the price of the finished box is cheaper.
  3. Easier to choose finishing material and roofing, as you can see several finished houses and chat with the owners.

When choosing individual design the timber is the same suitable material. He has correct form and can be adjusted to any size. Therefore, with the advent of this lumber, it became possible to collect wooden boxes the most complex and unusual form.

By choosing timber of the required cross-section, any project can easily be adjusted to any region with different average temperatures and climates. For garden or country house suitable material with a small cross-section: 100x50 mm, 100x100 mm. For permanent residence timber with a cross section of 150x150, 150x200, 200x100 mm is taken. The simplest option is a square section - 150x150 mm. Square shape allows you to quickly assemble walls without selecting technical and outside. But provided that the beam is simple. In this case, the section 150x150 mm must be insulated.

One of the economical options is profiled material. The tenon and groove on the technical sides of the beam are firmly connected during installation and create a reliable barrier wind. The walls are insulated using tape insulation directly during assembly. And if the front and back sides are additionally sanded, then after assembling the box you only need to walk along the walls paint and varnish material and the house is ready to move in.

A separate group is the log house made of laminated lumber. This beam consists of lamellas that are connected to each other under the influence of a press and glue. But scientists are still arguing about the environmental friendliness of laminated lumber. The positives stand out: high strength walls and elevated thermal insulation properties. So for the construction of a residential building from laminated veneer lumber suitable material section 100x100 mm, with winter temperature down to -15 degrees, additional wall insulation is not required.

When choosing a project, it is worth considering what type of timber the walls will be assembled from. Since further finishing work depends on this, which means additional material investments.

Where to start?

When the project is selected, the assembly of the log house begins. The foundation of the house is being prepared - the foundation. Since the material is light, any type of foundation is suitable:

  1. Columnar;
  2. Tape-grillage;
  3. Tape.

We do not recommend monolithic, as this is the most expensive option, which will only be profitable if the soil is moving and very crumbling. For loose, high-lying soil groundwater A pile or columnar foundation is suitable. How to build a house if the soil is swampy and mobile? It is wise to use screw piles. They are easy to install with your own hands, and the log house will be less likely to “walk” in the future. But when choosing a columnar or pile foundation, you should understand that in the future the base of the house will have to be additionally surrounded by a frame and insulated. Otherwise, there will be no basement or cellar in the house, and heat loss after insulating the basement will be reduced by 15%.

One of the most popular types the foundation for a wooden frame is strip. It got its name from its resemblance to a concrete strip rolled out on the ground. The height of the foundation is selected individually and is related to the characteristics of groundwater.

At high level groundwater occurrence and freezing in winter by more than 1.2 m, a strip-grillage option can be used. The design combines a concrete strip, but on piles every 1.5 - 2 m. Moreover, the piles are poured first, then the formwork is made for the strip. Before pouring, it is recommended to calculate the cubic capacity of the foundation; this will reduce the cost of concrete.

The detailed technology for assembling a strip-grillage foundation is disclosed in one of the previous articles.

Lego for adults

The manufacturer will deliver the finished log house to the site in a sealed package, making it easier to assemble it yourself. It is difficult to assemble your own house from solid timber without experience and skills, as it requires correct connection corners But more on that below.

Harness

Before laying the first crown, it is necessary to waterproof the foundation. The tree is hermetically sealed, and through microcracks in the foundation, moisture will get to the first crown and over time it will begin to rot. For work you will need materials: bitumen mastic (price from 350 rubles) and roofing felt (price from 220 rubles)

Waterproofing is performed as follows:

  1. The top of the foundation is coated with hot bitumen mastic.
  2. The first layer of roofing felt is rolled out on top. When joining, the material is overlapped.
  3. The roofing material is again coated with bitumen mastic.
  4. Rolls out finishing layer roofing felt

The width of the roofing felt should exceed the width of the foundation by 15–20 cm. The remaining ends of the roofing felt can later be hidden under the sheathing of the base.

First crown

The first crown of the log house is laid level on the dried waterproofing. The cross-section of the first crown is larger than the others in the box. This will increase the stability of the structure.

The first crown of a log house is the most important in the structure, so to increase durability it is worth paying more for larch or aspen. They are less susceptible to moisture, and over time they acquire a hardness comparable to iron. But we do not recommend using aspen from the Volga region. The tree has a fragile core and in 90% of cases is not suitable for construction.

Before laying, the first crown is covered with protective compounds (Sanezh, Belinka Bio, Tikkurila, Neomid 440 and Valtti Aquacolor (price from 120 rubles/l). The first crown is laid on laid out slats or a backing board. The slats are laid in increments of 30–40 cm across the foundation strip, the boards are sewn to the base using metal pins.The slats are 10 mm thick and create an additional gap between the foundation and the trim, which creates additional ventilation. Wooden harness attached to the foundation using metal anchors. But the box is attached to the base only for lightweight structures. Big houses several floors is quite heavy and will not move from the base without additional fasteners.

Folding the box


It’s not difficult to build a log house from a ready-made kit, but with solid timber you'll have to tinker. There are several options for corner connections of the beam with the rest and even ones:

  1. Assembly in paw. Spikes and nests for them are cut out at the ends of the timber. It has disadvantages: it is blown out, over time the material will dry out and serious insulation will be required.
  2. In the dovetail. The option is similar to the previous one, but has a special cut at an angle. The downside is that it's difficult to drink.
  3. Into the bowl. In each beam, a bowl is made from below for the upper link. The upper crown fits into the bowl and creates an airtight connection. Cons: you will need skill and a special cup cutter.
  4. Half a tree. Half of the section is cut out in each end part. The upper crown is placed in the resulting nest. Disadvantages: airflow and unreliable connection. To increase adhesion, a wood key is made to connect the ends.

A corner connection with a remainder is considered warmer and more reliable. The corners and timber are additionally connected to each other using dowels. Dowels are used wooden or metal. The latter option is more reliable, but when the log house dries out, cracks form in the walls and the metal pins spoil appearance Houses. Wooden dowels can be made independently from leftover lumber or birch. The dowels will give the structure additional strength and will prevent the timber from twisting when drying. Dowels are attached to every two crowns, skipping one, with a step of at least 150 cm.


Between each beam, jute insulation is rolled out (price from 110 rubles). If the material is profiled, then between the tenons and grooves there is a special groove for laying strip insulation. If beam connections along the length are needed, then a joint in the main tenon is used. The essence of the connection is in the tenon and groove cuts, which are securely connected and additionally secured with dowels.

The internal partitions in the log house do not need to be assembled immediately. They are made of a material with a smaller cross-section and are attached to the main walls. But if you are planning a two-story log house with your own hands, then at least one partition is assembled immediately. It serves as additional support.


Subfloors can be laid immediately. They subsequently serve as the basis for the warm “pie” of the finished floor. Mineral wool or ecowool, polystyrene foam can serve as floor insulation. Most inexpensive option use polystyrene foam, it will provide additional sound insulation between floors.

It is not recommended to cut out window and door openings in a log house right away. The building must stand. Even chamber drying during the first three months will shrink at least 3%, natural humidity at least 10%. Before inserting the frames, a socket is made, which will give the structure greater strength and prevent distortions from occurring during ground movement.

Choosing a roof and roofing


The rough roof is erected until complete shrinkage. If the timber chamber drying or glued, then the shrinkage is insignificant and you can start finishing the roof. Any material is suitable for roofing: corrugated sheeting, ondulin, soft tiles. Most economical option for garden houses - roofing felt or slate. The pitch of the sheathing will depend on the choice of roofing. The softer the roof and the flatter the roof, the more often the sheathing is done. For example, under soft tiles and the base is made of thin plywood.

The roof structure is selected individually. But the fewer bends and angles in the structure, the more reliable it will be. The simplest option is pitched roof or gable, they are assembled with their own hands.

Going to rafter system from laying ceiling joists. A beam with a cross section of 100x50 mm is suitable for work. The technical side will be 50 mm. The front and frame of the rafter system are assembled from material with a section of 150x100 mm. They are attached to the Mauerlat, which is laid on top part walls. A beam with a cross section of 150x150 mm is used as a Mauerlat. The most difficult part of the installation is installing the first rafters and matrix. You can attach the rafter system to the walls using metal brackets or anchor bolts. The logs and the Mauerlat are connected to each other using a tongue-and-groove lock. Readers can read more in the article on roof installation.

The finished roof is insulated and waterproofed. This is necessary to reduce heat loss in the house. Next we proceed to additional insulation and finishing. A wooden house will shrink completely after three years. At this time, it is not recommended to carry out grandiose designer finishing work, but you can already live in the house.

How much?


As you know, the one who walks can master the road, but the owner’s hands are not always trained to construction works, or work eats up all your free time. Specialists will assemble the log house in a few weeks, and the quality of work will be high. The installation price will depend on what work needs to be done. There are two types of standard services for the installation of log cabins:

  1. Full construction.
  2. Easy assembly.

The service differs in the list of works. Turnkey installation includes: foundation (pouring, formwork), frame assembly, rafter system, roofing, subfloors and ceiling, installation of windows and doorways, everything internal partitions. Simple assembly may include individual works. For example, the foundation is made with your own hands, and the frame and rafter system are assembled by specialists.

150x150 with your own hands, we will tell you in detailed instructions with photo and video materials.

Some secrets are revealed for successfully completing the basic activities of building a house.

How economically, but without losing quality, to acquire your own housing for many years.

What to pay attention to and do the job correctly.

It's easy to do it yourself. make it easier with your own hands wooden beam. The tree belongs to traditional materials, time-tested quality.

Production finished timber coniferous species Nowadays there are a wide number of options. In the presence of finished project It is possible to order material for a template.

Production will take a long time, but will be compensated for during installation.

7 steps to realizing your dream

After making a decision to build housing, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory measures.

The best time for this is considered to be late autumn and winter. It is necessary to spend a lot of time on all actions and it is advisable to time this period by the beginning of the construction season from mid-Vienna to early autumn:

  1. Decide on .
  2. Order or buy ready-made.
  3. Order and purchase basic material.
  4. Carry out preparatory work.
  5. Prepare consumables.
  6. Purchase a tool.
  7. Conclude agreements with contractors.

How to build a house from timber with your own hands

First stage. Preparation of the land plot

  • clearing debris and vegetation,
  • alignment is performed using special equipment,
  • marking the formwork using pegs, cord and level,

Important! It is necessary to use the services of a specialist. The quality of construction depends on this process.

Second phase. Construction of the foundation according to the developed project


Main types of foundation

  • ,
    for houses with a basement or cellar.
  • Pile foundation,
    for problematic soils.
  • shallow depth,
    for a small house.

Third stage. Construction of load-bearing walls and partitions of a house made of wooden beams

Materials

Material used for self-installation should be dry and light


Necessary tool

  • Electric circular saw.
  • Drill with a set of wood drill bits.
  • and roulette.
  • Ax and hammer.
  • Nails and screws.

Work process

The first crown is laid on the foundation along the perimeter. Previously, the foundation is laid with roofing felt, as waterproofing, and a layer of jute.

For information! The crown is called rows of timber laid vertically. Jute sealant is necessary to seal the seams between the beams.

Subsequent crowns are mounted according to the layout of the project. Between themselves wooden parts connected by dowels. Through holes drilled with a smaller diameter than the thickness of the stud. They hammer it in with a hammer, and cut off the excess protruding part to fit the base.

The bars are connected to each other, in places of ligation with the partitions using a tongue-and-groove ligament. In the corners, for greater strength, three types of joints are used:

Important! It is easier to cut connection nodes using a pre-made template. The cuts are made taking into account the allowance for the insulation. The connections will be smooth and reliable nodes.

Jute is also placed between the crowns and in the joints. On the second crown, beams for flooring are embedded. Under each part at a distance of 1.5 meters they lay out ceramic bricks supports. After installation of the fourth crown, a rough flooring is made from boards with a thickness of at least 40 mm.

Subsequent rows of timber are laid identically to the previous ones, but taking into account the details for door and window openings.

For ease of operation and safety, when lifting parts, slopes with a stopper are used. The device is made of two boards with padded wedge stops. The slopes rest against the wall with the upper edge, and the lower edge is held on the ground by a stopper. With the help of a rope, the timber is lifted up the wall along the slopes by one person. Scaffolding is assembled inside the room.

Important! Each new row of laid timber is monitored by level without fail.

The final two crowns are mounted around the entire perimeter and above all openings. The process of assembling the log house is completed by laying the ceiling beams. Then the Mauerlat is matted onto them to assemble the roof.

We equip the openings of doors and windows with casing boxes made of boards at least 30 mm thick. We fasten them with simple nails. The casings play the role of compensators during the shrinkage of a new building and do not allow the rows of timber to deform.

Before installing the roof, an upper ceiling deck made of boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm and an attic floor are sewn on.

Fourth stage. Roofing device

To install roofing structures and coverings, it is necessary to use the services of a team of specialists. This is a responsible job, the result of which determines the comfort, coziness, and service life of the entire house,

Fifth stage. Installation of blocks

After the house has settled, window and door blocks are installed to close the perimeter before finishing. Then insulation and finishing of external walls. Insulation of the attic space.

Sixth stage. Finishing


The final stage of all construction activities is the finishing of internal walls and ceilings. Installation of life support engineering systems.

Conclusion

When building a house with your own hands, you can save significantly on the main stage of building construction. , so as not to allow their own.

The assembly itself is not difficult to perform; it is enough to see it once and follow the project correctly.

The result will be positive.