How to make a doorway from plasterboard: basic principles. Key points for installing and placing a doorway made of plasterboard How to decorate a doorway with plasterboard

When major renovations are planned old apartment Owners often have a desire to remodel their home. Almost always, the implementation of these plans is accompanied by the demolition of some partitions and the construction of others in a new location. Sometimes they limit themselves to moving the door along the wall. In any case, the interior doorway will have to be made of plasterboard.

Modern methods of constructing partitions in an apartment involve the use various materials, but the main one remains drywall. Choice in favor plasterboard boards determined by the low price of materials and relatively simple finishing. Almost everything can be done with your own hands, without resorting to hiring workers. But no matter how simple the operations with drywall are, the organization of the doorway has a number of features that cannot be neglected.

New opening design

For all their attractiveness, plasterboard partitions have significant drawback. It consists in the fact that both the metal profile frame on which the sheets of material are attached and the drywall itself bend slightly when horizontal loads that arise when using the door are applied to them. Over time, the frame around the perimeter of the doorway becomes loose, and this will lead to a decrease in the strength of the structure.

Note! To avoid unwanted consequences when construction work oh, immediately take additional measures to strengthen the frame of the opening.

One of the main advantages is that you can do all the work yourself.

Formation of the structure

• First, vertical posts are installed at the selected location to limit the opening. The location is carefully verified according to the construction or laser level. This is important so that there are no distortions when hanging the door leaf. The distance between the vertical posts is selected based on the dimensions of the box: it should be slightly larger than the dimensions of the wooden frame.
• Up and down vertical racks securely attached to the horizontal frame guides. Sometimes they make additional fastenings to the floor and ceiling.
• At the selected height of the doorway, the vertical posts are connected by a horizontal jumper. Connections between parts of the frame are made with metal screws with a small thread pitch. The use of special shortened screws for the “bug” type profile is justified.
• Having completed the installation, the opening is finally finished.

Frame reinforcement

The frame of the doorway is subject to increased strength requirements, so the standard profile is reinforced. The most reliable way to achieve the required rigidity of the frame is to achieve wooden blocks. For ease of implementation inside the racks, the thickness of the bar is selected 5 mm less than the profile size. If a profile with a width of 100 mm is used for the construction of a partition, a wooden beam is taken with a thickness of 95 mm. The length of the beam must correspond to the height of the door posts. A piece of wood is inserted inside the vertical profile and fixed with wood screws with a thread pitch every 15-20 cm. The length of the screws is selected 3-4 mm shorter than half the thickness of the beam. If you intend to use a heavy wooden door, then it is advisable to reinforce the horizontal lintel at the top with timber. Additional finishing of wooden beams is not used.

Door frame installation

You can make a door frame with your own hands from a special profiled timber. This will require the appropriate skills and tools. Most often, a factory-made frame is used, which is sold complete with the door; it does not require additional finishing. If the dimensions of the doorway are chosen correctly, a gap of half a centimeter remains between the frame and the vertical posts. This simplifies the process of installing a finished purchased product into a constructed opening with your own hands and gives room for maneuver. The door frame is secured with long self-tapping screws, but best result allows the use of special anchors.

In the designated places: in the vertical posts and in the door frame, holes are drilled, the diameter of which corresponds to the thickness of the anchors. The anchors are inserted into the holes, then countersunk screws are screwed into them. The anchor sleeve expands and provides a strong fastening of the structure. The gaps between the opening and the frame are filled polyurethane foam. To prevent the door frame from bending when the foam hardens, spacers are installed inside it in several places. After the foam has completely cured, the spacers are removed and excess foam is removed with a mounting or stationery knife.

The final stage is finishing

They also finish the doorway with their own hands, but after puttingtying and painting the partition. To close the gap between the door frame and the partition itself, the doorway is sheathed around the perimeter wooden slats- cashing out. Cash on sale available various sizes and shades, so you can choose the one you need right in the same store where you bought the doors. The horizontal and vertical parts of the cashing are joined at an angle of 45 degrees. The required angle is performed using a special device - a miter box. They fasten the cash with nails without heads: they do this so that the fastening is not noticeable.

In contact with

Unfortunately, today not everyone can afford to purchase spacious housing, but most of us still strive to create maximum coziness and comfort in what we have. Is there a way out of the situation when the number of rooms in the apartment is not enough to fully satisfy the needs of all family members? What if one room has to be used as a living room, office and bedroom? Despite the complexity of the question, the answer is quite simple - any living space can be divided into functional areas, dividing frame partitions, covered with plasterboard, and installing the door.

Anatomy of a plasterboard structure

Despite the features of the interior, your design concept, as well as the location and size of plasterboard partitions, all these structures, as a rule, have a standard structure. Their basis is a rigid metal frame made of galvanized profile, which can be reinforced with a wooden beam at the installation point doorway. To increase the heat and sound insulation properties, the sheathing is filled with a special insulator, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the room and the requirements for the structure. The assembled and insulated frame is sheathed on both sides sheets of drywall(GKL) - a reliable, environmentally friendly and easy-to-install material, completely ready for any type of finishing.

The profile frame is filled with insulation and sheathed with gypsum plasterboard sheets

Application area

Frame partitions covered with gypsum plasterboard are used to divide or zone space in rooms of various layouts and purposes. These structures are installed in industrial and office buildings, residential buildings and apartments, garages and outbuildings. The variety of types of plasterboard allows you to install partitions in rooms with high humidity And special requirements to fire safety.

Advantages

Frame structures covered with plasterboard sheets have long and with great success replaced partitions made of brick or wood due to a number of characteristic advantages:

• Properties of materials. A durable metal profile allows you to install lightweight frames of partitions of any shape and size, without creating additional load on the load-bearing floors. The material is resistant to moisture, galvanized coating prevents oxidation and rust formation. Drywall is environmentally friendly pure material, specially treated to improve fire-retardant and moisture-resistant properties. It is easy to install, strong and durable, and its combination with stone wool, foam or cork board enhances the heat and soundproofing properties designs. GKL is distinguished by a perfectly smooth surface, which has unlimited possibilities for decorative finishing.
• Fast and easy installation. Plasterboard partitions are easy to install - even a beginner, “inexperienced” in construction work, can create them home handyman. Note that one of the advantages of these structures is the ability to change their location - the product can be easily disassembled and reassembled.
• Laying communications. The possibility of laying electrical wiring, water supply or sewerage pipelines inside the partition frame is another advantage of this design.
• Minimum costs. All elements that make up a partition covered with gypsum plasterboard are low in cost. When installing the product, piles of construction waste and dust are not formed, the permissible noise level is not exceeded and a minimum of energy is consumed.

Flaws

We will also definitely note the disadvantages of the design that need to be taken into account when making the final decision on its creation:

• The relative fragility of drywall compared to materials for capital construction(brick, concrete, wood). This parameter can only be increased by adding skin layers.
• Low resistance of gypsum plasterboard to heavy exposure to moisture. The material can be destroyed as a result of a leak “organized” by neighbors living above.
• It is impossible to attach massive shelves or wall cabinets to the partition surface. The design is capable of holding weight up to 70 kg per linear meter provided that the elements are attached to the frame parts, and the drywall itself can withstand no more than 15 kg.

Despite some shortcomings of gypsum boards, we note that competent creation and correct operation Partitions made from this material will help quickly, easily and inexpensively transform the interior of a room, giving it comfort and increasing its functionality.

Preparing for work

That’s it, this short “theory course” is over, let’s move on to the solution practical issues. Let's look at the list first the necessary tool, we will list the materials that we will need to erect the structure, and also carry out approximate calculation their quantities.

Tool

To install a partition, you need to prepare a set of special, but quite common and simple tools:

• Tape measure, nylon cord, building level, plumb line, pencil - marking the location of the structure.
• Angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors - cutting profile strips into elements of the required length.
• A jigsaw (hacksaw) with drywall saws or a construction knife - cutting sheathing sheets to size.
• Impact drill or hammer drill - making holes in load-bearing ceilings for dowels for mounting the PN profile.
• Electric (battery) screwdriver - fastening frame parts and installing sheathing sheets using self-tapping screws.

To install the partition you will need a simple construction tool

Attention! For installation of the structure on upper levels You will need a strong stepladder. Work with metal profiles and drywall requires the mandatory use of personal protection- glasses or mask, thick gloves, respirator.

Materials

When installing the partition yourself, the following materials will be used:

1. There are two types of metal profiles for mounting the frame: PN - “guide” (English marking UW) - attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls to form the outline of the structure. Also used when creating a doorway. PS - “rack-mount” (English marking CW) - is installed vertically to ensure the rigidity of the frame. It is a load-bearing element of the sheathing.
2. Drywall for sheathing - covers the frame on both sides.
3. Insulation - fills inner part structure, increasing its heat and sound insulation properties.

1 - metal profile; 2 - material for heat and sound insulation; 3 - drywall

When choosing the main materials for the construction of a partition, you need to take it into account individual parameters and the requirements that it must meet. Let's look at this question in more detail:

• Profile. Standard installation of interior frame structures implies the possibility of using material with a base width of 50, 75 or 100 mm. The choice of this parameter depends on the height of the ceilings of the room - the higher they are, the wider the profile should be and the thicker the partition itself.
• Drywall. There are several types of material for covering the frame; the choice here depends only on the characteristics of the room. For example: when installing a partition in a bathroom, you need to use gypsum boards - moisture resistant appearance drywall, and the creation of curved and shaped structures will require the use of thinner sheets.
• Insulation material. It is selected based on the requirements for the partition and the characteristics of the room - when dividing a room into a study and a nursery, you will need a good sound insulator (cork board or dense foam), and to highlight the hallway area, basalt wool, which retains heat well, will be useful.

In addition to the basic structural elements, to create it you will need:

• Dowel-nails (6x40 or 6x60 mm) – installation of the profile to the floors.
• Self-tapping screws for metal (LB 9 or LB 11) – fastening frame elements.
• Self-tapping piercing screws for plasterboard (MN 25 or MN 30) – installation of sheathing.
• Sealing (damper) tape - a gasket between the guide profile and the main floors.
• Corner profile (PU) - strengthening the joint of sheathing sheets at the corners of the doorway.

The entire structure will be mounted using three types of fasteners

Expert advice: When purchasing everything you need, at the same time purchase materials for sealing joints between sheets and masking the areas where screw heads are screwed in on the surface of the sheathing - reinforcing sickle tape, primer for gypsum boards, finishing putty.

Measurements + consumables calculation table

To avoid unnecessary financial costs and eliminate the need for additional purchases of material, you should correctly calculate it required amount. There is no difficulty in this event - you need to measure the height and length of the proposed structure and determine its main parameters (profile width and number of cladding layers). Let's consider the calculation of the material, taking as an example a partition 5 meters long and 3 meters high with a doorway 0.8 meters wide and 2.1 meters high, with a frame made of a profile 75 mm wide and single-layer cladding with gypsum plasterboard sheets.

• Guide profile (UW). We calculate the perimeter of our structure (5 m + 3 m) * 2 = 16 m. Subtract the width of the doorway (0.8) from this value and get 15.2 m. It is known that the height of the partition is 3 m, therefore, we will definitely need two three-meter strips, which we will secure entirely, vertically to the load-bearing walls. We will cover the remaining length of 9.2 m with three four-meter profile strips (12 m), and the excess (2.8 m) will be useful for strengthening the frame at the location where the door is installed and installing jumpers between the posts.

  The UW profile that forms the outline of the structure is indicated in black.

• Rack profile (CW). Considering standard width gypsum plasterboard sheet (1.2 m), the vertical posts of the frame must be mounted in increments of no more than 0.6 m, so that the joints of the slabs are connected on one profile, and another element is located in the middle of the sheet.

  Frame posts should be mounted at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other

• Knowing the length of the partition, we can calculate the number of racks by dividing 5 m by 0.6 and ultimately getting 8 strips 3 meters long (the indicator is determined in accordance with the height of the structure).

  The vertical posts of the partition frame made from CW profile are marked in grey.

• Profile for a doorway. At the location where the door is installed, we will have to move one post, reinforcing it with a strip of guide profile, this is constructive solution will also be applied on the other side of the opening. Thus, we will need another three-meter rack profile (CW) and two guide strips (UW) of the same length. To decorate the upper part of the doorway, a section of the guide profile 1.0 m long will be used.

  Two load-bearing reinforced pillars are highlighted in green, and the lintel (upper beam) of the doorway is highlighted in blue.

• Profile for jumpers between racks. To increase the strength of the frame, horizontal jumpers from a guide profile are installed between the posts at a height of 1.5 m. This will require another UW strip 3 m long and the excess that remained when calculating the contour of the partition.

  The jumpers made of UW profile are marked in blue, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure.

• Drywall. As a material for cladding we use gypsum board sheets (slabs) with a length of 3000, a width of 1200 and a thickness of 12.5 mm. To cover one side of the frame, we will need five sheets, two of which will be used entirely, and the remaining three will have to be cut to size. We calculate the drywall for the second side of the partition so that the joints of the sheets do not intersect, but are offset by half the sheet. This also requires five slabs - two full and three trimmed.

  On one side of the frame, the sheathing sheets will be arranged in this way

  The second side of the frame must be closed with the sheets offset by one rack or 600 mm

Expert advice: Double-sided installation of gypsum board sheets with offset joints will increase the rigidity of the structure, significantly reducing the possibility of deformation and reducing the likelihood of cracks on the surface of the material. If you need a more durable partition, use two layers of drywall when covering it.

Summarizing the calculations, we can conclude that to create a 5x3 m plasterboard partition with a doorway we will need:

• guide profile (UW–75) 3 meters - 5 strips;
• guide profile (UW–75) 4 meters - 3 stripes;
• rack profile (CW–75) 3 meters - 9 stripes;
• plasterboard (gypsum board 1200x3000x12.5 mm) - 10 sheets.

The number of hardware (fastening elements) is calculated based on the step of their installation. The maximum distance between the dowels securing the guide profile to the floors should not exceed 500 mm, and self-tapping drywall screws are installed every 250–300 mm.

Engineers from the German company KNAUF - a world leader in the production of materials and technologies for frame construction- prepared a table that will help us when performing calculations.

* Note that the number of corner profiles (PU) depends on the size of the doorway and is not related to the area of ​​the structure.

Attention! To simplify calculations when building a plasterboard partition, you can use a special online calculator that shows the approximate consumption of the main material and all other components.

How to do it yourself: step-by-step instructions

So, all the important stages of preparation for work have been completed, let’s be patient, enlist the support of loved ones, get the approval of neighbors and begin installing the structure.

Expert advice: Any construction work using plasterboard should be carried out at an air temperature in the room not lower than +15 C. It is better to install structures before finishing the floors and painting works. Before creating a partition, the surface of the main floors should be leveled, filling potholes, seams and cracks with putty.

Layout and marking

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, we will determine the location of its installation and draw up a schematic plan according to which the markings will be carried out. This stage of work is as follows:

Attention! It should be remembered that the line we have drawn is a mark for attaching the guide profile. To determine the exact boundary of the structure itself, you need to add the thickness of the plasterboard slabs and its finishing layer.

Installation of sheathing

Having finished with the markings, we will carefully check the correctness of its application and proceed to production. metal frame our partition:

1. Using an angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors, we will cut pieces of the UW guide profile to the required length. On back side We will glue the blanks with a sealing damper tape, which softens the sound vibrations and vibrations that will be transmitted to the structure from the main floors.

   Sealing damper tape will protect the structure from sound vibrations and vibration

2. We secure the strips along the horizontal marking line, drilling holes for dowel-nails with a hammer drill (in increments of no more than 400–500 mm) and hammering fasteners with a hammer. Experienced craftsmen It is recommended to start with the top guide located on the ceiling, since it will be easier to “shoot” with a plumb line from there the correct installation of the floor profile.

   We drill holes for the dowel-nails with a hammer drill and hammer in the fasteners

3. We will install vertical guides, securing them to the load-bearing walls (with the same step) along the marking line and checking the correct installation using a building level. Note that fastening a metal profile to brick walls with a thick layer of plaster will require the use of longer dowel nails (6x60 or 8x60).

   When mounting the guides to the load-bearing walls, we check the verticality using a building level

4. Let's form doorway, installing reinforced profile racks in the marked location. Let's measure the distance between the lower and upper parts of the frame contour, be sure to subtract 10 mm from this value and cut two strips of the CW profile of this size. There are several options for strengthening the parts - you can insert the guide profile into the rack profile and secure it on both sides with self-tapping metal screws (every 150–200 mm) or strengthen the CW strip with a dry wooden beam, selecting it in size, inserting it inside and also fastening it with self-tapping screws.

   We insert the rack profile into the guide and fasten the structure with metal screws

5. Let's install the reinforced rack into the floor guide of the frame, bring the top of the strip into the ceiling (here a 10 mm gap comes in handy), check the strict verticality of the element with a level and secure the part with metal screws. Let's mount the second rack in a similar way.

   When installing the rack, first install it in the lower guide, then carefully place it in the upper

6. We will set up the racks from the CW profile in increments of 600 mm, starting from any of the load-bearing walls. The installation process of these elements completely coincides with the installation of reinforced racks - we cut the parts into 10 mm strips less distance between the guides, check verticality with a level, fasten with metal screws. Note that the step size of 600 mm should be in the middle of the rack profile, since it is at this point that the sheathing sheets, which have a standard width of 1200 mm, will be joined.

   The rack profile is attached to the guides with metal screws

7. Let's mount the horizontal lintel (upper beam) of the doorway. Let's cut a piece from the guide profile strip 200 mm longer than the distance between the reinforced posts. We measure 100 mm from each edge of the part and cut the side parts perpendicular to the base, leaving it intact. Carefully bend these sections inward and get a profile strip of the required size with blind ends.

   A wooden beam can be inserted inside the upper beam of the opening, further strengthening the structure

8. We will install a jumper between the pillars of the opening in the right place (taking into account the height of the door block, as well as the possibility of further installation of the finishing flooring), check the horizontal building level and secure the part with self-tapping metal screws. This structural element can also be strengthened by any of the methods mentioned.
9. If the height of the room at the installation site of the partition exceeds 3 m, you will have to manufacture and install additional stiffening ribs - transverse jumpers between the racks. The parts are made similarly to the upper beam of the doorway and are attached to the CW rack profile with metal screws.

   Option for placing transverse lintels in a frame with a height of more than 3 m

10. Inside the finished frame of the partition we will install embedded elements made of profiles, strong thick plywood or timber, to which hanging cabinets, heavy mirrors and sconces can be attached. After this, we will install the electrical wiring, placing it in a special corrugated pipe, and also lay all the necessary communications and pipelines.

    Wooden beams need to be secured in places where heavy wall cabinets and other massive interior elements are installed.

At this point, the work on installing the frame is completed, you can move on to the next one, no less important stage creating a partition.

Sheathing the frame with installation of heat and sound insulation

In order for the structure to reliably store heat and protect peace from extraneous noise, its insides must be filled with special insulating material. Many years of practice show that an inexpensive but high-quality heat and sound insulator - mineral (stone or basalt) wool - is quite suitable for these purposes.

Mineral wool slabs will reliably retain heat and also insulate the room from extraneous noise

Expert advice: In order to fill the frame of an interior room partition, purchase mineral wool slabs or mats required thickness- material of this form of manufacture is easily cut to size and conveniently placed between the elements of the sheathing.

Before installing a layer of heat and sound insulation inside the structure, perform the following steps:

1. Let's cover one side of the frame with plasterboard, starting with a whole sheet from the wall where the 600 mm pitch for racks from the CW profile began. Remember that when installing gypsum boards, you must leave a gap of 5–10 mm at the junction of the slab with the ceiling and floor. The material tends to expand with changes in temperature and humidity, and “blind” installation in a spacer can lead to its deformation and the appearance of cracks.

   Installation of the sheathing is carried out from a whole sheet from the wall where the set of racks began

2. We attach the cladding sheet to the profile by tightening the gypsum board screws around the entire perimeter in increments of 250–300 mm. We recess the heads of the self-tapping screws into the drywall to a depth of 0.5–0.8 mm.

   The heads of self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the surface of the drywall

3. Using a jigsaw or knife, we cut the remaining sheathing elements to size and fasten them in such a way that the sheets join exactly in the middle of the rack profile.

   We join the sheets of drywall exactly in the middle of the profile

4. Having closed one side of the frame, we lay it inside insulating material, cutting it with a small allowance and inserting it between the posts at random.

   Place mineral wool slabs cut to size between the sheathing posts

5. We install the cladding on the other side of the partition, shifting the sheets by 600 mm (one rack) relative to the closed part of the surface - this method of fastening the cladding will significantly increase the strength of the structure.

   We close the other side of the frame with gypsum board, shifting the sheet by one rack (600 mm)

6. We will strengthen the joints and edges of the sheets in the place where the doorway is installed with a corner profile.

Attention! When installing gypsum plasterboard sheathing, remember that the sheet must be fixed around the entire perimeter - to fasten the extension or parts of non-standard size, you will have to insert additional elements profile into the frame.

Final chords

Having finished covering the partition frame, we will insert the door block into it and resolve the issue of finishing the drywall surface. If a strict vertical line was observed when installing the opening, installing the block will not cause any difficulties.

The issue of finishing the cladding surface is also resolved quite simply:

Now the partition with the door is ready for any type of finishing - it can be wallpapered, painted, applied ceramic tiles or decorative plaster - it depends only on your imagination and financial capabilities. For more detailed information about the installation process frame structure, covered with plasterboard, we bring to your attention the following video.

Video: How to build a partition from gypsum plasterboard and install a door

Many years of professional experience show that our fellow citizens are increasingly choosing plasterboard for installing additional load-bearing walls or interior partitions in their homes. This material is easy to use and allows you to create such structures without resorting to the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap. We hope that now you can do this work yourself without any problems.

Changing the layout or dividing an existing space into separate rooms is not difficult. To do this, you can call a team of repair specialists or do everything yourself, provided you have certain knowledge and skills. Most often, plasterboard doorways are used for interior partitions. The installation process of such a structure must be thought out to the smallest detail, since its quality and stability depend on this.

The quality and practicality of drywall in use have been proven for a long time. It is used not only as a material for finishing walls, but also as the basis of structures and partitions dividing a room into several rooms. Each such wall must have a hole for the door, which greatly complicates the installation process. It is important to remember that the doorway must have a certain rigidity in order to be able to place door frame, facing materials, slopes. If the presence of a door is not initially planned, such a need may arise in the future. A well-installed doorway will allow you to install the door without much hassle at any time.

The process of installing a plasterboard wall:

• Frame marking;
• Frame installation;
• Wall cladding with plasterboard.

At the beginning of work, you need to draw a plan of the walls in order to avoid shortcomings and further rework. Future doorways and the width of partitions should be marked on the drawing. The first step in installing a wall is to transfer all the elements from the plan to the floor and ceiling of the room.

The presence and location of electrical wiring and electrical appliances should also be thought out in advance.

To install the frame, a guide metal profile is installed, which serves as the outline of the partition. Fastening is carried out with a hammer drill or dowel-nails. Next, vertical rack profiles are mounted, after which the frame is filled with soundproofing material and stitched with sheets of plasterboard.

How to install sliding plasterboard doors in an interior partition

Sliding doors in plasterboard partition take up little space and are ideal option for small rooms.

To install such a door you will need to carry out the following work:

• Calculate the mounting height of the guide and the size of the opening;
• Mount the partition frame;
• Install the door guide;
• Install travel limiters;
• Cover the frame with plasterboard;
• Lay a clean floor;
• Hang door leaf;
• Install platbands.

When installing a metal frame, jumpers are used that connect the walls of the structure to increase rigidity. Double vertical posts are also installed, because it is impossible to install lintels in the space where the door will be hidden.

Installing a plasterboard doorway with your own hands

Doorways are made using guide profiles according to pre-marked markings. The size of the door block significantly affects the final width and height of the opening. Before calculating the height of the opening, you should pay attention to the absence or presence of floor covering.

The process of installing a plasterboard partition with a doorway includes the following steps:

• Installation of guides and rack profiles;
• Marking and shaping the design of the doorway itself;
• Fastening plasterboard sheets to the finished doorway structure;
• Installation of a plasterboard box for an air duct.

Before the beginning finishing works you need to check the wiring. To improve sound insulation, it is necessary to foam the gaps between the profile and the boards.

The racks along the edges of the doorway are reinforced with wooden blocks that match the profile in size. The presence of a wooden block significantly improves the quality of installing a door into a partition from plasterboard with your own hands, and also improves the rigidity of the structure. Self-tapping screws are used to attach the bars to the profile.

How to make plasterboard doors with your own hands

The process of manufacturing and installing plasterboard doors is not complicated, but the final result largely depends on the design planning.

In the process of manufacturing plasterboard doors, the following work must be performed:

• Install the door frame;
• Cover the door frame;
• Seal cracks;
• Carry out soil and putty work;
• Carry out the final finishing of the wall.

For the frame, a cut profile is used, onto which jumpers are attached to increase the strength of the product. The frame is sheathed with plasterboard of any size and even leftovers, since the finished canvas can eventually be primed and puttyed. All cracks and chips that appear as a result of the cladding must be properly repaired. After this, the doors are painted or covered with photo wallpaper or tiles.

In some cases, the door structure is insulated with polystyrene foam, glass wool, polyurethane foam, isolon, or polystyrene, and the material is placed in an empty space and fixed with glue.

In what order is a plasterboard wall and door installed?

To isolate a passage room, you can use interior partitions, for which material with different characteristics: moisture resistance and fire resistance.

Since the material is very fragile, you should work with it carefully and carefully to avoid damage.

Stages of installing an interior partition:

• Preparatory- taking measurements, preparing materials and tools;
• Mounting- the process of installing a profile, forming an opening for a door and installing drywall;
• Finishing- treating the wall surface with various impregnations, applying paint, tiles, wallpaper.

Immediately before installing the door, it is necessary to divide the material into separate elements according to preliminary marking of the boundaries. The cut line should be leveled with an edge plane. The frame is sheathed on both sides with plasterboard using self-tapping screws.

How to sheathe a doorway with plasterboard correctly

Before sheathing the wall, it is necessary to correctly cut the sheets of plasterboard construction knife. To obtain even borders, place the sheet on a horizontal hard surface and mark with a marker the line along which you want to separate part of the material. Upper layer The drywall needs to be slightly cut. After this, the sheet moves to the edge of the support and breaks. At the end, you need to turn it over and repeat the above steps again, as a result of which you will be able to separate the desired piece of drywall from the sheet.

The sheet and frame are connected using self-tapping screws. Initially, it is necessary to fix the edges of the sheet, and only then the middle. A distance between fasteners must be maintained in the range from 10 to 25 cm.

It is important to screw the screws completely into the drywall so that the caps do not stick out above the wall level.

The work is carried out in the following order:

• The first sheet is secured;
• The distance to the ceiling is measured and a piece of drywall of the appropriate size is cut out;
• In places where it is necessary to fasten the sheet to another piece of drywall or the ceiling, you need to form a chamfer;
• After the first row, whole sheets are installed under the ceiling, and the missing part is attached to the bottom.

How to install a plasterboard doorway

When remodeling an apartment, a very popular solution is to finish the doorway with plasterboard. However, it does not have to be made rectangular. Nowadays, unusual and curved doorways are in fashion, and with the help of drywall it has become possible to bring any design idea to life.

Before starting work it is necessary to dismantle old door: remove from hinges and remove trims and jambs on the floor.

Installation of a plasterboard doorway is carried out in several stages:

• Installation of a rigid frame for fastening sheathing sheets;
• Installation of the upper transverse strip to fix the upper dimensions of the opening;
• Measuring the parameters of the frame according to the width and height of the doorway;
• Preparation of materials for installing doorways and sound insulation;
• Marking drywall;
• Fixing drywall sheets with self-tapping screws;
• Taping seams with sickle tape;
• Putty and primer of the doorway;
• Final decorative finishing.

We make a doorway from plasterboard with our own hands (video)

A plasterboard doorway can be the highlight of a properly chosen design. A partition with a compartment door is especially relevant in modern interior. The main advantage of this design is its ease of assembly. Thanks to this, there is no need to pay money for installing such a wall and preparing the material, because it is very easy to do it yourself.

Design of doorways from plasterboard (interior photo)

During redevelopment, they try to arrange the living space to the maximum by moving interior partitions. After the destruction of the old structure, it is easier to make a new wall from sheets of plasterboard. A passage must be provided between rooms. Making a doorway from plasterboard consists of two stages: assembling the frame and covering it.

In construction, drywall (gypsum board) is considered universal material. You can build new structures from gypsum plasterboard or use sheets for cladding instead of plaster. It is impossible to build a load-bearing wall from plasterboard, but the material is excellent for interior partitions. Lightweight partitions are used when zoning a room, making false walls for sliding doors. The arrangement of a doorway in a plasterboard partition can be done with imagination, making the arch a classic, asymmetrical or other shape.

GCR walls have many advantages:

• creates minimal load on load-bearing elements buildings due to their light weight;
• one person can erect a partition;
• affordable cost of materials;
• If necessary, the partition can be easily dismantled.

In offices plasterboard walls can be installed temporarily to create a separate office or other purposes. Designers use the structure when arranging decorative passages of unusual configurations.

Required materials and tools

To arrange a plasterboard opening in an interior partition, you will need the following: tools:

• roughing plane for processing the gypsum board cut;
• edge plane for cutting chamfers at an angle;
• a sharp knife or a special hacksaw for cutting drywall;
• metal scissors;
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• screwdrivers, level, pencil, tape measure.

From materials prepare for work:

• profiles made of galvanized steel;
• if it is planned to hang the sash, to strengthen the doorway you need a wooden beam corresponding to the section profile;
• assembly of the frame and fixation of the casing is carried out with self-tapping screws;
• if it is necessary to increase sound insulation or insulate the partition, use slabs basalt wool.

The main material in the manufacture of a partition with a doorway is drywall.

1. As a standard, wall gypsum board with a thickness of 12.5 mm is used.
2. The curved elements of the arch are made from sheets 6.5 mm thick.
3. To go to the bathroom or kitchen it is better to take moisture resistant drywall. It is easily distinguished by its blue or green color.
4. There is fireproof gypsum board. This material is rarely used in apartments. An exception may be the kitchen, where there is a possibility of strong heating of the partition from household appliances.

How to make a doorway from plasterboard?

Before making a doorway from plasterboard with your own hands, think through the dimensions and shape of the structure. It is determined in advance whether the sash will be hung.

Changing the dimensions of the opening

When installing non-standard door It is not necessary to destroy the partition. Simply changing the dimensions of the doorway is enough. To reduce the height or width, a frame is constructed from a rack and starting profile. At the construction stage, do not forget about the sash. A galvanized profile will not withstand a heavy door leaf. If you decide to hang the doors, then a wooden beam is placed inside the rack profile.

When the passage is planned to shift to one side, part of the wall is first cut out. It is better to use a grinder, since blows from a hammer drill can damage the integrity of the entire partition. After preparing the outline of the opening, fix the starting profile from below and above, and place vertical elements, as well as additional racks on the wall side. The starting and rack profiles are connected with self-tapping screws. The frame is given rigidity by additional cross members.

When it is necessary to reduce the height of the passage, only wall profiles are installed. They will support the upper cross members.

After making the frame, the gypsum board is cut out. All fragments are connected so that the joints are located in the middle of the profile. Fix the casing with self-tapping screws.

Straight frame construction

To make a plasterboard wall with a doorway from scratch, first draw up a project. Calculate the dimensions of the structure, the location of the passage, and the shape. The easiest way is to build a rectangular classic opening. When calculating the dimensions, it is important to take into account that after finishing the thickness of the partition will increase.

The construction of a wall and an opening made of plasterboard begins with markings. The location of the starting profile is marked on the ceiling. From it, an exact projection is made with a plumb line onto the floor, where the lower starting element is installed. Mark the location of the rack profile. Vertical elements are placed every 40 cm. The outer racks must be fixed to the adjacent load-bearing walls. Additionally, racks are installed to form the door passage. The vertical parts of the frame are reinforced with horizontal cross members.

When the frame is ready, basalt wool insulation is placed inside. The structure is sheathed with gypsum board, fixing the sheets with self-tapping screws.

Arch

Making an arch is difficult. It is important to bend the elements equally to obtain a symmetrical design. There are arches different forms, but if you have no experience, it is better to stick to the classic semicircle. The process consists of the following steps:

• The new partition is constructed according to the principle of a direct frame structure. If there is already a partition, the opening will have to be widened so that the base of the frame does not interfere with the installation of curved elements of the arch. A wall profile is fixed at the top and side of the passage.
• The frame of the semicircle of the arched doorway is made from a guide profile. The side shelves of the workpiece are cut at a distance of 3 cm with metal scissors. The cuts should be located strictly opposite each other. Prepare two identical elements
• A semicircle is bent from the cut profiles. The details should be symmetrical. It is better to bend the blanks at the same time.

• The bent elements are fixed with self-tapping screws in the upper part of the opening to the side posts and the lintel. Further actions aimed at strengthening. Using scissors, cut pieces of the profile, place spacers, connecting the semicircular element with the base of the opening frame.
• The covering of the door passage begins from the front side. Two identical fragments are cut out from the plasterboard. It is important to make the oval correctly. It will be impossible to smooth out large defects with putty later. The finished front fragments of the doorway are fixed to the profile with self-tapping screws.

• To make a curved part, use a tape measure to measure the width and length. It is better to take the second indicator with a reserve. The measurements are transferred to a thin sheet of ceiling plasterboard, and a strip is cut out.
• The back side of the fragment is rolled with a needle roller and moistened with water. When the punctured cardboard gets wet, the gypsum board strip will easily bend into a semicircle. The fragment is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. It is advisable to do this with an assistant.

After covering, the corners of the arch are reinforced with a perforated corner. Further actions are aimed at finishing door passage: primer, putty, sanding, painting or wallpapering.

Plasterboard finishing

When you only need to correct the contours of the passage, it is enough to simply line the doorway with plasterboard without constructing a frame from a galvanized profile. Fragments are cut from sheets required sizes. GKL on slopes and in the inner part of the opening is glued special glue for drywall, with putty or fixed with self-tapping screws. The corners are protected with a perforated corner.

Finishing

After sheathing, plasterboard openings are subjected to finishing. The work is carried out in the following order:

• The gypsum plasterboard doorway is primed. Do not perform any actions until completely dry.
• The joints and screw heads are treated with serpyanka and glue. A perforated corner is glued to the corners.
• The surface is leveled with a starting layer of putty and a plastic mesh is glued.
• The structure is covered on top of the frozen layer finishing putty. After the finishing layer has dried, grouting is done with a sanding mesh or sandpaper.

For better adhesion, the sanded surface can be treated with a primer. After it dries, the new doorway is painted, covered with wallpaper or other material of your choice.

Working with gypsum plasterboard is so simple that you can arrange even the most complex doorway in 1–2 days.

Drywall is durable and available material, which absolutely everyone can learn to work with, even without having construction experience. Today they make it from plasterboard decorative elements, all kinds of shelves and niches. It is used to level walls and create multi-level floors and ceilings. Therefore, it is not surprising that plasterboard began to be used for the construction of interior partitions. How to make a gypsum plasterboard partition with a doorway yourself - read below.

Making an interior partition with a doorway may be necessary if the walls in the room are uneven. In addition, a plasterboard frame with an opening allows you to turn one large room into two small ones quite inexpensively and efficiently. By using plasterboard construction you can easily change the dimensions (for example, make it narrower) and the location of the doorway in panel house, make a round or asymmetrical arch instead of a standard passage.

Before carrying out construction work, it is imperative to make a drawing of the future structure, taking into account GOSTs and SNiPs.

This will allow you to correctly calculate the volume of material and outline the scope of the upcoming work. When drawing up a drawing plan, you should take into account standard sizes plasterboard sheets and metal profiles. Thus, standard gypsum boards are made with dimensions of 250x120 cm, and a standard metal profile has a length of 300-400 cm.

If you plan to make any changes to load-bearing walls, you need to contact the relevant authorities (BTI, Ministry of Emergency Situations, SES, architecture department, housing inspection, operating organizations), and obtain permission for redevelopment.

If this is your first time working with drywall, then you should study the types and purposes of metal profiles. The durability of the structure depends on them.

Making a doorway from plasterboard with your own hands

In order to assemble a frame with an opening based on interior wall and cover it with plasterboard, you will need: metal profiles(guide and rack partition), cladding material, basalt mineral wool, scissors or Circular Saw for metal, a hammer drill and a screwdriver, a jigsaw, an edge plane, 8 mm dowels, metal screws measuring 25-35 mm and self-tapping screws with a press washer.

Manufacturing a frame with a doorway includes the following steps:

• Removal interior door and dismantling the door frame;
• Expansion of the opening (if necessary);
• Marking the wall;
• Installation of the lower and upper guide profiles using 6x40 dowels with a distance of 40 cm;
• Installation of wall profiles along the entire length of the wall with a distance of 60 cm;
• Installation of vertical rack profiles;
• Installation of the horizontal lintel of the opening;
• Installation of vertical guides opposite wall profiles;
• Filling the frame with insulation (for example, mineral wool);
• Covering the frame with plasterboard; To increase the strength of the structure, you can sheathe the frame in several layers, in a checkerboard pattern;
• Applying putty to the joints of sheets and places where gypsum boards are attached to the frame;
• Grouting putty, priming sheets for further finishing.

If design standards and rules are followed, a plasterboard doorway will last for many years. A correctly assembled structure will be able to withstand a fairly large load: the opening can even be decorated with decorative artificial stone, brick.

Assembling a plasterboard door frame correctly: advice from builders

In addition to following the doorway installation technology, you should also take into account some nuances that will help extend the service life of the structure.

So that the structure is strong and even, Experienced drywallers advise:

1. Use wooden blocks to strengthen the vertical posts. The bars are laid directly into the profile.
2. Mount support posts by the insertion method, in which the shelves of one of the profiles are inserted inside the second. The ends of the double profiles can be attached to the guides using self-tapping screws or notches.
3. Position plasterboard sheets so that their junction falls on the profile.
4. Mount the sheets so that the screws go deeper into the material by 1-2 mm, and into the rack by at least 1 cm. In this case, the fasteners should enter at a right angle.
5. Always install a minimum of four rack profiles. At the same time, their height should correspond to the height of the future door.
6. Minus half a cm when cutting the profile in order to be influenced high temperatures he didn't run into walls.
7. Reinforce external corners structures with a special profile in order to reduce their fragility.
8. Increase the thickness of the partition in proportion to the increase in its length: load bearing capacity plasterboard construction depends on the size of the section.

To bend a sheet of drywall for an arch, go over it with a needle roller and lightly moisten it with water. After the fox becomes pliable, you can fix it in the desired position. The main thing is to make sure that the sheet does not soften, otherwise in the future it will crumble and crumble.

How to align a doorway in a panel house

Alignment of the doorway may be necessary if it is moved or expanded. In addition, doorways are often located at the junction of two panels, and can be skewed due to the mismatch between the two lengths of the vertical sides. The choice of finishing method for the opening is influenced by the degree of its curvature and the repair budget.

Align the doorway without attracting professional builders, you can do it yourself using plaster.

Today, openings can be finished with either wet or dry plaster. In the first option, the opening is finished with gypsum, cement and polymer mixtures. In the second - with civil code sheets.

The easiest way to apply a moisture-resistant polymer mixture, which has high performance characteristics.

Drywall can be mounted either without profiles or with a frame. The first case should be chosen if the differences in relief in the opening are insignificant. In addition, you can combine methods to achieve a better decorative effect.

DIY plasterboard doorway (video)

The scope of application of drywall is extremely wide. One of the options for using the material is to create artificial interior partitions and decorate doorways. Making and leveling a doorway using gypsum plasterboard yourself is quite simple. To do this, you just need to make the markings correctly, perform the work in the right sequence, and follow building regulations, and take into account the recommendations experienced builders. And then you will have a durable and beautiful design!